And could we get some pics of all the brass tubings seprate? Like internal pictures of it?

Even more explanatory, I think, would be a simple (but good) drawing of the breech, with the various pieces of brass either labeled or color-coded, like this.

(That picture is not of this breech; it the one on my Longbow. I just used it as an example)

I just got started modding fairly recently and thus haven't been to any real wars. But, back in the mid 90s I rocked it hard with a RatchetBlast (with any one of several single shot shot sidearms), or just a Defender T3. All were unmodified, of course; heck, I didn't even get a computer until 2001, let alone know about the NIC.

Aimless:

How far did you tighten the screw?

Also:
-Did you tighten it all the way down?
-How much is "all the way"? That is, does it take a few turns to tighten it as much as possible, or less than a full turn?

Back story part 1: Last summer, we cleaned our game room (also 1/2 of my nerf workplace). All of my nerf modifications (finished, unfinished, and not yet begun) got put in bins which were subsequently buried. Due to my laziness, I spent the last month of summer not nerfing.

Back story 2: I went home from college this weekend.

Today: I got my nerf stuff out from under an avalanche of my brother's crap, played with my modded NF, debated whether or not to take the NF to college with me, and decided not to until I asked an RA for clarification of the "no weapons" rule. Once I got back in the dorm, I spent some time regretting my decision and, finally, went on NH and found this topic.

In all, a day of progress followed by a bad decision.

Last night I purchased and a set of SMDTGs and took out the ARs. Unfortunately, I don't have any appropriate barrel materials. I think I might not plug the overpressure release valve, because that way if I shoot one dart I can just repump it without having to fire the other two first.

I also put a rather odd breech on my Titan. In addition to not having to ram a dart or use a coupler, I think it may have reduced the power enough to be war-legal (though I haven't actually shot myself pointblank with it yet). I think I may put one or both of my SMDTGs on it, too.

Let's see:
1. Not finding the NIC sooner.
2. Assuming that the Supermaxx line sucked, and thinking that Larami should stick to super soakers...and therefore not buying any of them when they were in stores.
3.Not asking my parents to buy me a X-bow back in the day.

And, speaking of which...

definitely destroying my first crossbow. I'd never dreamed people would want it, so I kinda killed it...with a hammer. I can't wait to get railed for that one.

Murderer!

Your genius astounds me: Tupperware lids for the win! I can't wait to see the finished product.

Was that directed at me or him or both?

I was agreeing with you, but then ironically saying that the reason that you were right was just because he forgot to add the value for flames.

Which, by the way, had better be added to that list, Peter...along with: Video Game theme = +19

Also, Halo theme gets an extra 40 (on top of the 19 for it being a video game theme).

To moderators/founders: I promise I won't post any more useless posts in this thread.

Edit Wait! I have an idea! Keks: try taking off some of the electrical tape. I have had the problem of having too much friction between the plunger and plunger tube.

There: not-so-useless post.

Edit2: Wait a second, Pink gets a negative? Baghead will have a bone to pick with you...And did you see Twitch's Pink Recon? Pink should be like a conversion from feet to yards, not a downgrade.

What was the point in that?

Yeah, I know...He forgot to include:

Flames = +37.63

They'd better not! It's the only cool-looking N-strike blaster left (except maybe...maybe the Recon).

*still weeps when he remembers that the Mav is no longer blue and yellow*

I could be wrong, but since your title is "member" instead of FNG, I think you can post more. Just don't abuse the right.   

Anyway, these look cool. What blasters did you end up using? The Switchshot/Wii blaster?

Are they heavier then the original Flywheels. I am wondering if part of the decrease could be because they are too heavy for the stock motor and that they might work better with motors with higher torque.

Actually, Torukmakto4 tried them on "Blade" 180 equivalents and reported (here) that their mass is similar. However, even with these rather torque-y motors there was still a decrease in dart velocity.

He puts the blame on decreased flywheel-to-dart grip due to the serrations, which is totally possible.

If one wanted to try for even more torque, you'd have to use something like a 280 or 300-series motor...which would require pretty heavy modification of your blaster and still won't work as well as stock flywheels if the serrations are indeed to blame.

This test was using the stock motors then?

People thought that the "serrations" might increase air friction (thus slowing the motor down) and/or actually decrease dart grip.

If the problem is the former, more torque from the motor might help. If it is the latter, then these really are useless except if you are in desperate need of replacement flywheels.

Anyway, thanks for testing.

I was actually just contemplating making something along these lines, except with readily available plumbing parts.

I need to figure out a better way to make the plunger head. Right now I would have to make it out of solid PVC rod lathed to size, but I'll start reading up on different options.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by using a "solid PVC rod lathed to size," but I was thinking of something akin to Carbon's SNAP-5:

The front of the plunger chamber would be a 1.25" to 1/2" PVC bushing (assuming the plunger chamber is 1.25" PVC), with the 1/2" hole widened slightly to allow the barrel/plunger shaft to slide through easily.

On the rear end of the barrel/plunger rod, you would use a bushing to increase the diameter of the pipe to (if I remember the size Carbon uses correctly) 0.75" PVC, with a 0.75" end cap (with a hole in it) or coupler on that to act as the plunger head.

The problem would be the seal on the plunger head...you couldn't use a standard SNAP washer setup. There are alternatives, of course, but it would make things a little more complicated.

What I am most interested in, Slug, is what you plan to put on the back end of the plunger chamber. Carrtoon used an end cap, of course, but I'm not sure I like that...it's either too hard to take off, or might come off too easily (even flying back when you fire).

You might want to look here as this build is essentially what you are doing.

He used 16 gauge teflon coated, military spec wire. Teflon is good because the heat generated by the motors won't be able to melt it, and the coating is thinner than your average PVC insulation (allowing you to have thicker wire in the same amount of space).

If you are not wanting to spend the money on the high grade wire, and as long as you are careful to not let your wire touch your motors, I'd go for 16 or 18 gauge stranded (not solid) primary wire like this. Because of the insulation thickness, you may need to use the thinner 18 gauge wire to get it to fit in the shell.

As for the rev switch, try to get a SPDT microswitch rated to at least 10amps. This one looks like it's what you want, but I have no idea if that shop is reputable. From what I can tell Radio Shack only has 5amp microswitches, but you may have another store with electronic components around you

Tl;dr: 18gauge stranded wire, 10amp SPDT microswtich

There is definitely a difference, and IMRs are better in every way (aside from cheapness, unfortunately). See a previous post about them here.
 
Try to get at least 18 gauge wire, or 16 gauge (which is thicker) would be even better.
 
Make sure you get stranded wire (i.e. there are a hole bunch of thin copper wires twisted together), not  solid wire (which is hard to bend and easy to break). You can find PVC-insulated wire in Lowes/Home Depot. Silicone-insulated wire is better (the insulation is thinner and more flexible so it fits in blasters better, and is heat-resistant), but more expensive and you'll probably have to order it online.
 
There are $5 motors available from Containmentcrew.com, but I wouldn't run them on Trustfires.
 
If you are going to use trustfires, please don't buy ultra cheap ones from ebay, which are probably knockoffs and are rather likely to explode on you.
 
Edit: Also, I don't know if you already own Trustfires and a charger for them, but Lipo chargers can be as cheap as $13 and a LiPo as cheap as $3.50 (may want 3S instead of 2S, depending on the motor).

Why not just add a layer or two of e-tape? I haven't tried this, personally, but it should work.

PS: I got best ranges with a very short section (~1 inch) of really tight barrel material, nested inside a few inches of rather loose barrel material.

I think that washers were used because they are roughly the same diameter of the dart and felt pad, thus making less margin for error: either the washer is centered and the dart flies straight, or they are very obviously not centered and the dart needs to be remade because it probably won't even fit in the barrel. Thus, you get the consistency that Langley likes so much.

I once tried to make slug darts by using a BB, a very small amount of hot glue, and a felt pad...fortunately I tested them before taking them to a war because (when shot out of a powerful blaster) the BB was able to detach itself from the hot glue, punch through the felt pad, and go who knows where.

So, if you are going to try this, I suggest making a (nearly) full hot glue dome and then put a felt pad over top of that. I believe this has been done and proven to be fairly durable and safe.

Well being one of the first forums I joined, I didnt realy have a catchy name, so I just have my name
C. Capogreca.

Same here, man. We're so unimaginative...

Oh, and Oro?: Rurouni Kenshin was one of the first animes I watched. It's a great show; too bad the DVD sets are always so expensive.

Well the devil bet a Crossbow of gold against Vacc's soul that he was a better nerfer than Vacc. They had a skills competition and Vacc won (natuarally) but the devil wouldn't give him his due. As Vacc reached for his prize he told the devil he was welcome to come back if he ever wanted to try again.

Satan bowed his head because he knew that he'd been beat, but then tore open a portal in time and flung him into the future where his evil is law.

Now Vacc seeks to return to the past and deliver vengeance to his ancient foe...and take over his evil kingdom for himself.
 

Also the best way to barrel tap is to epoxy nails to the outside of the barrel

That...that's not even funny. Here I am taking the time to try and remember a story from when I blacked out that one time, and you're interrupting me with stupid ideas like that?

 

What happened to vacc I've heard so much about him but I have never seen him

I passed out at that party, but I've heard the stories.

As Langley alluded to, the Sex Dwarves delved too greedily and too deep. Too deep we delved there, and woke the nameless fear.

Vacc fell through fire and water...and then more fire, I guess? Now he's traveling through the Nine Circles of the Inferno to have one last war against Satan. From the lowest dungeon to the highest peak, they'll fight...until at last one shall throw down his enemy and smite his ruin upon the earth.

I'm sure someday Vacc will return to play 1:0 against us mere mortals with an army of demons behind him, Lucifer's head speared on Binky's barrel (barrel taps are allowed in hell, I hear).

Or something like that. Hard to tell with these things.

Anyone know if the barrels fire separate or at the same time?

Also, to save people the trouble: the Optimus blaster is still $30.

Edit: Answering myself: looks like it shoots both at the same time

I think you should brass/petg your AT3k.

He said that he can't do anything besides crayola barrel.


Long answer to original question:
I honestly don't know you would get more range out of (crayola BBB or crayola AT3k), but choosing one over the other really depends on your playstyle and (to an extent) the field that you are playing on.

If it's possible, I would suggest modifying the AT3k, BBB, and NF. If you've removed the Mav's ARs, that's just about all that you can do with it.

It seems that you are pretty new to nerf wars (or maybe you aren't; I can't be sure), so I would suggest taking all four of the blasters I mentioned and just try things out. Play a round with the BBB and Mav and/or NF, then try a round with the At3k and NF.

The Mav will help counter the BBB's lack of speed, while the AT3k will benefit more from the longer range of the NF.

I've never replaced a BBB spring, so again I don't know how much the range will improve.

I definitely advocate making your NF the best it can be: replace the barrel and spring (and/or add bands). A good NF serves just about any nerfer well.


Short(er) answer to original question:
If it were me, I would use an AT3k and the NF; You'll probably be out-ranged even if you use the BBB, so rush them instead with the high rate of fire that the 3k provides. Still, take the BBB in case the AT3k breaks.

Okay, maybe it's just that Loweses and Home Depots (especially Home Depots) in SW Pennsylvania are horrible and/or have idiots working there, but:

-I can only find Sch. 80 PVC (in particular, threaded "nipples") in one, out-of-the-way Lowes that's quite far from me.

-I've never seen a check valve in stores, or for that matter a decent sprinkler section; after much searching, I finally found out where to find the solenoid valves from a guy who deals plumbing parts to Lowes.

-I've never found a single compression spring in a Home Depot, and I've asked repeatedly.

Anyone have any tips for finding any of the above in a Home Depot or Lowes (there aren't any ACEs around me) that I don't only get to once every couple of months?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks, SHA, for answering my question, but in that case it seems my Home Depot doesn't carry them. I think they actually had one extension spring once, but that was it. I guess my hardware stores are just lame.

No, I wouldn't use those batteries with either motor. They probaly do not put out enough current for either the MTB or FK180 motors (especially the 180s). Also they say they are protected cells. So good news is they probably won't blow up. Bad news is they will probably shut down if you try to use them.

 

That kysan motor is metal-brushed (not carbon), so durability may be an issue. The windings should be the same as the FK180SH-3240, but if they use crappy magnets the motor may not be as powerful.

 

FK180SH-3240 are also sold as a replacement for "Blade" helicopters. The part number is EFLH1210 or EFLH1211. See more details here. You can find them in small quantities on ebay and maybe on some R/C hobby sites.

 

Also MTB Rhinos (and Honeybadgers) spin fast enough that they will give all the performance (range/FPS) that FK180s will. They also have sufficient torque to get your flywheels up to speed quickly and maintain that speed during high rates of fire.

 

FK180s do have superior torque, though, and may get your flywheels up to speed even faster. Similarly, they have absolutely no trouble maintaining that speed during high rate of fire.

 

So FK180s are somewhat better but are harder/more expensive to get and require shell modification. Up to you which one you want to go for.

Maybe these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/231726371857

 

That's a link from February so not sure if these are still Banshees, or if they replaced with another motor.

Within the years '05 to '06, I purchased a Mav and an LS (just because they were so cool looking), and they reminded me of all the nerf wars I'd had when I was younger.

Then, around the end of January or beginning of February last year, I was in my college's library doing some preliminary research on Wikipedia for a paper I had to right. I got bored and, thinking about y LS and my Mav, decided to search for "nerf" on Wikipedia. There, it had a brief mention of modifying nerf guns, and (I think) stefans. So, after some searching, I found NH and NHQ.

As a side note...

It seems that the Wikipedia page has since been modified, and currently makes no mention of modifications, etc. For once, my timing was good.

What is a gun that shoots [damaged darts] without jamming but still has good power.

Nitefinder, Firestrike, Sharpfire, or -insert name of other single shot, front loading blaster- (not one with a "Smart AR" like a triad or roughcut)

Or a turreted blaster (strongarm, hammershot, cycloneshock, rotofury, or even Air Max 6/10 are recent examples)

Anything mag-fed is more likely to jam than not when using damaged darts. 

I think it was two Sharpshooter I's (from two different friends, on my birthday), although it may have been the blue-and-pink BnA (can't remember where/how I got that).

I think the Sharpshooters were second gen or something, though...they were blue rather than gold/brown, and the darts didn't have fins.

My "returning to nerf" blaster was the (blue) Mav.

I'll never forget the time he threw his gun and started yelling profanity after he got shot in the face for the 8th time in one day.

I was there for that. I think it was DCNO 2009, and my brother may have been the one to get that 8th faceshot.

Funny, all these years and although I've had so many fun times as a Sex Dwarf (both nerfing and afterward), I think my highlights are still in 2009:

At DCNO most of the day was cramped by a state-wide peewee girls soccer tournament, but the last few rounds of the day took place after that wrapped up and we got out of the constant standoffs inside the Labyrinth. Best hit of the day was an across-the field shot on Ryan with my BBBB as he ran left to right. I swear I watched my dart make a 90degree turn to the right and hit him square in the back.

 

Best sequence of the day was chasing the other team out of the field all the way back to the staging area. My brother and I were running at the forefront when the other team decided to turn and try to make a stand. My brother pointed at a path cut into the bottom of a slope and yelled "Sunken road!" Apparently it was a Civil war tactic, and after I realized what he meant we both crouched down on the path. Our opponents rained darts down at us, but the between steep angle and minimized target, we didn't take a single hit.

 

Later that same suumer my brother and I headed back toward Washington, DC for SuperNOVA. Slug should be a weatherman because he said the forecast of "40% chance of rain showers"  meant it would rain for like an hour, and sure enough it rained enough to nearly flood the field the first hour of the war, and then was beautiful the rest of the day.

 

Anyway, top moment ever was my brother and I taking out a lone opponent defending a play-gym, charging up the stairs, and then proceeding to take apart the bulk of the other team at long range while my brother covered our position from ground level. My first three shots hit three people who were taking cover from the rest of my team (but had their flanks exposed to the playset).

 

That was the last east coast war I played in where I was the only person (or at least one of only ~2) with an RSCB. Hoppers hadn't been invented yet.

 

Also, pretty sure I saw two darts collide in mid-air at that war.

While Bobafan gave you a very good answer, I feel the need to point out this topic right here,

Which happens to be on the first page of the "General Nerf" forum...you know, the one that you just posted a topic in.

To summarize it: Go to mcmaster.com and search for 93295K43. That stuff, depending on your CPVC's inner diameter (I've found that it varies a bit) should fit somewhat loose or somewhat tight. Either way, it should at least be a servicable fit if not the coveted "perfect fit."

this is just me being curious, is there a trickle charger or something like that that keeps them at a stable storage voltage? or is charging them at all something that should be constantly monitored.

They keep their charge pretty well so once you put them at a storage voltage they should stay that way for months if not longer. It's more like you should check it to make sure nothing has gone wrong (like a single cell's voltage drops, or it swells). If something does happen then you know about it and the pack can be safely disposed of before things go horribly wrong.

 

I'm no expert...I just know enough to not kill myself with plastic toys...but http://www.rcgroups....ad.php?t=238984says trickle charging will do nothing and that makes sense to me.

 

Decent LiPo chargers like the IMax B6 can be set to charge or discharge to a certain voltage, and at a certain rate (amps), all while keeping the cells balanced. Plus they'll set off an alarm if something goes wrong while charging. So every once in a while you can hook up your pack and top it off to ~3.85V per cell. No need to cycle LiPos either, unlike NiCd.

"[...]- Torukmakto4

 

Context for the above quote: https://www.reddit.c...ef=search_posts

 

I usually don't doubt Toruk because, well, Toruk...but given that two other experienced flywheelers (Duke and Foam Data) in that thread said it was a good way to blow up your motors I'm only gonna revise my earlier suggestion to:

 

You could put 3S in there, but be prepared to buy new motors. 2S will let the motors last longer, but your blaster won't shoot as fast/far. Pick your poison.

 

Still, don't buy trustfires. At least get IMRs if not NiMH or LiPo. Watch the aforementioned youtube video for the reasons why.

 

But only get LiPo if you know how to care for them properly.

 

Edit: A post with a link to purchasing IMRs.

I don't understand what Toruk was talking about either. He's advocated using a 6 cell NiMH pack in a stock Rapidstrike (unless he recently changed his mind) for those who don't want to rewire or replace motors, but still want a solid performance increase.
 
A 6 cell NiMH is very close to a 2S LiPo with respect to voltage.

 
"3S is standard for Nerf stock semi-auto motors"
"RS motors? Those are a very different motor and want 2S"
 
I don't want to speak for Toruk but it seems to me he's still consistent on the stock RS motors. He was speaking about stock stryfe motors that happened to be going in an RS. I know stryfe motors have worse RPM and/or torque, so yeah more voltage will compensate.
 
He says stock stryfe motors will last a while at 3S (~11V) and I'll take him for his word. But I wanted to get the info on here that it's gonna pretty hard on them and other people agree that they'll burn up fairly quickly. That  way every noob doesn't complain when their stock stryfe motors burn up the moment they say "Listen how loud this is" and then hold down the rev trigger for however long it takes to prove their manhood (probably quite a long time).
 
If you have concerns, though, you should PM Toruk on reddit or whatever rather than take my word.
 
Side Note: Pretty sure FoamsFired got banned , but figured it doesn't hurt to put the info out there anyway.

http://www.amazon.co...ds=lipo battery

If he's sticking with stock motors, I think 2S LiPo would be better....3S can burn out stock motors quickly. (I stand corrected below)

 

More in-depth info/advice for the topic starter: https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be

Heh heh that was my post you linked and since that post was "dead" I have been looking into rewiring my demolisher for a lipo and hear a lot of this. What does everyone mean by care for them properly besides just common sense? That honestly is the one reason why I haven't rewired yet since I have been worried that you need some crazy discharging method for lipos otherwise it will blow up in your face.

Don't let the voltage drop too low (use a voltage meter or alarm)

Don't over-charge (i.e. raise the voltage too high)

Don't short the battery...always try your blaster with regular batteries and see if they get warm before you ever connect your LiPo. Relatedly, make sure all connections are well-insulated and secure. You don't want a short to happen during play.

Store LiPos in a cool, dry environment at a proper storage voltage. While in storage frequently check the individual cell voltage; they should be the same (aka balanced). Also look for any signs of the pack swelling.

Make sure the pack doesn't get punctured or squeezed in the blaster (or otherwise)

Use a proper charger (balance charger) and again make sure the cell voltages are all the same after charging/discharging.

Never leave a LiPo to charge unattended. Preferably do it away from flammable objects, and put the LiPo in a charging bag (which will prevent the spread of fire).

Go on an R/C site or something and read even more Do's and Don'ts.

 

By most accounts modern LiPos are more stable/safer than older ones but they still require care to prevent injuring yourself and others, or burning down your house.

The other is a Big Blast. (even if you did know, i'm telling you)

This?

 

That's a Buzz Bee Belt Blaster, not a Big Blast.

Anyone know if A Link to the Past was the version re-made? I can't remember.

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking, but yes, A Link to the Past was remade for Game Boy Advance. And, the cartridge also contains the original Four Swords game.

Magstrike

A few Wii games

Maybe a Border's gift card; I have so many Star Wars books to catch up on that it'll be easier to just get a card instead of listing them all.

Although, I don't really need all that since my brother just called and told me that he (finally) found a KB Toys with AT3ks in stock. I told him to pick up 3 sets, and I was so happy I promised to give him one.

'Tis the season of giving...(or whatever that saying is)

Note: One AT3k, not one set...I'm not that generous.