The alchemic injector assembly
screws off for easier carrying. Air restrictors removed, Russian Roulette mod completed.
Anima's Content
There have been 73 items by Anima (Search limited from 03-December 96)
#133290 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 21 December 2007 - 09:07 AM
in
Modifications
A commission I took recently for a steampunk Nerf gun.
The alchemic injector assembly screws off for easier carrying. Air restrictors removed, Russian Roulette mod completed.
The alchemic injector assembly
screws off for easier carrying. Air restrictors removed, Russian Roulette mod completed.
#240962 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 09 July 2009 - 02:21 AM
in
Modifications
http://www.flickr.co...tty/3537296945/
A gift for a friend I finally got around to finishing. The paint is Duplicolor Metalcast, blue and green layered. Plastidip grip. Russian Roulette mod of course. The slide and cylinder are done in Metalcast yellow. Detail work done with paintpens and a lot of muffled cursing. I wish I'd gotten some better photos; indoor light doesn't do the Metalcast paint justice.
#273773 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 30 April 2010 - 05:23 PM
in
Modifications
Hey guys. S'been awhile.
#274363 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 09 May 2010 - 11:43 AM
in
Modifications
This is the inverse twin of the maverick I posted earlier.
http://www.flickr.co...205559/sizes/l/
The recipient for this gun is Elly, thus the corrupted spelling on the slide. I used a tightly-wound Ace bandage and a clamp to press the leather tightly enough to the grip to get the detailing to show through. Adhesive: tacky glue.
http://www.flickr.co...205559/sizes/l/
The recipient for this gun is Elly, thus the corrupted spelling on the slide. I used a tightly-wound Ace bandage and a clamp to press the leather tightly enough to the grip to get the detailing to show through. Adhesive: tacky glue.
#86243 Longshot Mod
Posted by
on 01 August 2006 - 11:34 AM
in
Modifications
Even more useful when Nerf starts (hopefully) offering LS clips for sale...but how about glueing/screwing two LS clips end to end? When you run dry, flip it over, jam it back in. Saves you the trouble of shifting to get at the clip stored in the stock, :K)
I guess folks have been doing this with real gun clips for quite awhile.
Excellent work Carrtoon. I'll be performing the mod myself very soon. I'm thrilled you jumped on this so early, :K)
I guess folks have been doing this with real gun clips for quite awhile.
Excellent work Carrtoon. I'll be performing the mod myself very soon. I'm thrilled you jumped on this so early, :K)
#86494 Longshot Mod
Posted by
on 04 August 2006 - 05:21 PM
in
Modifications
Mod-progress:
I added an o-ring to the plunger (I had added two, but one of the o-rings snapped over night, and they were such a pain to put on I figured I'd go ahead and trust one to do the job) and added a BBB spring to the existing LS spring.
Forgot to plug the hole in the barrel. 9,9
Put it all back together, and shot at the bathroom for awhile from across the basement. I'm lucky none of the darts ricocheted enough to end up in the toilet. x,x Serious power.
But there's a problem. With so much more tension in the system, it's now extremely hard to load and remove clips. The orange guide on the front of the plunger, which normally slips beneath the curved yellow shield on the top of the clip, no longer edges backward enough to let the clip slide in properly.
I think I'll try trimming that guide down next time I have it open, see if that takes care of it. Right now, you practically need three hands to force the bolt backwards while thumbing the clip-release and removing the clip. 9,9
I added an o-ring to the plunger (I had added two, but one of the o-rings snapped over night, and they were such a pain to put on I figured I'd go ahead and trust one to do the job) and added a BBB spring to the existing LS spring.
Forgot to plug the hole in the barrel. 9,9
Put it all back together, and shot at the bathroom for awhile from across the basement. I'm lucky none of the darts ricocheted enough to end up in the toilet. x,x Serious power.
But there's a problem. With so much more tension in the system, it's now extremely hard to load and remove clips. The orange guide on the front of the plunger, which normally slips beneath the curved yellow shield on the top of the clip, no longer edges backward enough to let the clip slide in properly.
I think I'll try trimming that guide down next time I have it open, see if that takes care of it. Right now, you practically need three hands to force the bolt backwards while thumbing the clip-release and removing the clip. 9,9
#163516 The Vulcan
Posted by
on 21 July 2008 - 01:07 AM
in
General Nerf
More news on the gun from my friend Jamie.
Yes, the tripod is removable. No, the belts can't be linked together, though you could sew them together if you really want to.
It's not "terribly loud" but that's pretty subjective. It isn't as loud as flywheel guns. It's "lighter than you'd expect," so it shouldn't be a monster in the weight department.
The only word I've been able to get on ranges is that it shoots 'across the house' which sounds like at least 30 feet to me, better than the unmodded Longshot.
Yes, the tripod is removable. No, the belts can't be linked together, though you could sew them together if you really want to.
It's not "terribly loud" but that's pretty subjective. It isn't as loud as flywheel guns. It's "lighter than you'd expect," so it shouldn't be a monster in the weight department.
The only word I've been able to get on ranges is that it shoots 'across the house' which sounds like at least 30 feet to me, better than the unmodded Longshot.
#163005 The Vulcan
Posted by
on 16 July 2008 - 02:57 PM
in
General Nerf
If Jamie hadn't moved away, I would've been to his place last week and gotten measurements, internal pics, and had carnal knowledge of the Vulcan. Ahem.
As it is, I highly doubt I'll be able to convince him to open up the gun. He doesn't mod at all, and the Vulcan is *not* the gun you want to start modding with.
I do hope to get some ranges, info about how its battery-operated mode seems to work, noise-level, etc. when I can get ahold of him. I'll also ask him to scan/photograph the manual.
In the meantime, commenting on his Flickr photos may make him more willing to help. A few 'thanks for the pics!' even would be nice.
As it is, I highly doubt I'll be able to convince him to open up the gun. He doesn't mod at all, and the Vulcan is *not* the gun you want to start modding with.
I do hope to get some ranges, info about how its battery-operated mode seems to work, noise-level, etc. when I can get ahold of him. I'll also ask him to scan/photograph the manual.
In the meantime, commenting on his Flickr photos may make him more willing to help. A few 'thanks for the pics!' even would be nice.
#89706 Longshot "shotgun" Foregrip
Posted by
on 14 September 2006 - 05:42 PM
in
Modifications
Very, very nice work Captain. 
Not only is it a practical mod, you made it look professional and clean. Heck, it improved the overall look of the LS. I may have to try this myself... Thank you too for the writeup, plans, etc. This is easily the best thread I've read in months.
Not only is it a practical mod, you made it look professional and clean. Heck, it improved the overall look of the LS. I may have to try this myself... Thank you too for the writeup, plans, etc. This is easily the best thread I've read in months.
#89758 Longshot "shotgun" Foregrip
Posted by
on 15 September 2006 - 10:28 AM
in
Modifications
Hey Anima, you know that he is selling them now.
Yes, I know, having actually bothered to read the entire thread. ;K) I'm more of a do-it-yourself guy, to a point. With the nice resources Captain's made available, it should be a cinch. Just have to be careful when cutting the Lexan, that's all. Last time I worked with the stuff, I learned that high-speed saw blades melt the Lexan behind it, 'magically' sealing your cut. Blah!
#76152 Maverick Seal Improvement
Posted by
on 14 March 2006 - 05:55 PM
in
Modifications
I vaguely remembered this mod when I had a few Mavericks open the other night, so I decided to give it a try.
I didn't want to use the air restrictor spring, however. I didn't think it had enough oomph to make a difference. So I tried a leftover spring that normally nests inside the Mav's eject button.
It was too long, and prevented the cylinder from rolling out. So I flipped over the gray bracket from the front of the cylinder,
And found that there was no way the spring could seat inside the bracket at all, thanks to four cross-pieces put there for support, I suppose. Meh, who needs those? I painstakingly chopped out those little plastic supports, leaving just a round peg there, (the outside of the 'well' the metal rod sinks down and through. The button-spring was barely large enough to slide down around that peg, and it still wasn't quite enough to reduce the spring's length enough to allow the cylinder to eject. So I trimmed off about a sixth of the spring with some wirecutters.
Put it all back together, and it worked nicely. Unfortunately, I noticed no change in ranges whatsoever. It still gets air-restrictor-removed ranges.
I think this mod could possibly contribute to better performance when combined with other changes (like that o-ring) but on its own, the difference is negligible.
I didn't want to use the air restrictor spring, however. I didn't think it had enough oomph to make a difference. So I tried a leftover spring that normally nests inside the Mav's eject button.
It was too long, and prevented the cylinder from rolling out. So I flipped over the gray bracket from the front of the cylinder,
And found that there was no way the spring could seat inside the bracket at all, thanks to four cross-pieces put there for support, I suppose. Meh, who needs those? I painstakingly chopped out those little plastic supports, leaving just a round peg there, (the outside of the 'well' the metal rod sinks down and through. The button-spring was barely large enough to slide down around that peg, and it still wasn't quite enough to reduce the spring's length enough to allow the cylinder to eject. So I trimmed off about a sixth of the spring with some wirecutters.
Put it all back together, and it worked nicely. Unfortunately, I noticed no change in ranges whatsoever. It still gets air-restrictor-removed ranges.
I think this mod could possibly contribute to better performance when combined with other changes (like that o-ring) but on its own, the difference is negligible.
#74225 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 25 February 2006 - 12:43 AM
in
General Nerf
While the new guns look promising, I don't think anyone needs to worry much about Nerf wars losing much variety. The LS is *not* a weapon you're going to be running around with. I mean...look at it! That monster is something you're going to want to flop down atop some elevation, and pick people off with. Or dig yourself in and cover ground. Moving with it with any kind of obstacle around will be annoying at best. If you're dashing about with the pistol taken off the front, that barrel alone is going to catch on stuff.
This doesn't mean it's unusable of course, it just means finding a proper place for it.
As for the Magstrike? True it looks good. But it may be harder to mod than its ancestor. And people won't easily give up the primaries they've treasured for years. No, the battlefield won't suddenly become a two-gun game. Not as long as experienced veterans continue using diverse weaponry, requiring adaptation on the part of those who'd ordinarly be happy using just the two new guns. (Plus you have to take the price into consideration. While definitely affordable considering what you get, you have to realize that many may not be able to afford anything more than a Maverick or NF.)
Of course you could just give the LS to your biggest guy. If he runs around with the gun on his shoulder instead of at the ready, it may survive long enough to be of some use. 
This doesn't mean it's unusable of course, it just means finding a proper place for it.
As for the Magstrike? True it looks good. But it may be harder to mod than its ancestor. And people won't easily give up the primaries they've treasured for years. No, the battlefield won't suddenly become a two-gun game. Not as long as experienced veterans continue using diverse weaponry, requiring adaptation on the part of those who'd ordinarly be happy using just the two new guns. (Plus you have to take the price into consideration. While definitely affordable considering what you get, you have to realize that many may not be able to afford anything more than a Maverick or NF.)
Of course you could just give the LS to your biggest guy.
If he runs around with the gun on his shoulder instead of at the ready, it may survive long enough to be of some use.
#74147 Fall '06 Blasters
Posted by
on 24 February 2006 - 02:46 PM
in
General Nerf
I think once again I must resort to Gir to express my appreciation for posting these photos.
"Thank you...I...I love you."
I can't wait to get my hands on a Longshot. Modding the Rapid Fire Rifle is probably a nice bit of practice for messing around with the LS...
Bolt action! It's been awhile, hasn't it? It's appropriate for the gun too, I'd say. Easier for a prone marksman to pull a bolt than to lift up the arm and cock it overhand like a Maverick/Firefly. :K)
"Thank you...I...I love you."
I can't wait to get my hands on a Longshot. Modding the Rapid Fire Rifle is probably a nice bit of practice for messing around with the LS...
Bolt action! It's been awhile, hasn't it? It's appropriate for the gun too, I'd say. Easier for a prone marksman to pull a bolt than to lift up the arm and cock it overhand like a Maverick/Firefly. :K)
#163741 The Vulcan: Unboxed
Posted by
on 22 July 2008 - 05:21 PM
in
Modifications
Rather than relocate the battery pack, just build a brace for it that will distribute the weight along your forearm.
As to the wisdom in hacking the gun up...it's his purchase, we have no business criticizing him. I do wish he'd done real measurements before altering the gun, though. We have no basis for comparison now.
As to the wisdom in hacking the gun up...it's his purchase, we have no business criticizing him. I do wish he'd done real measurements before altering the gun, though. We have no basis for comparison now.
#74153 Dartsmithing Tips Archive
Posted by
on 24 February 2006 - 04:07 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
I kind of stumbled upon a bag of FBR at Meijer the other day, and decided to finally try my hand at dartsmithing. I looked up a tutorial, and started in.
Mistake #1 - Using scissors to cut my FBR. It pinches it, and makes the cut-end not-flat. Not-flat = Extremely bad.
Regardless, I threw all the darts in a pillowcase and tossed it in the dryer on low. After a total of five minutes or so in there, not a single dart had straightened noticeably.
Mistake #2 - Getting impatient and pulling out my heat gun.
Mistake #3 - Suspending the darts for heating by using clothespins. The pinch in the foam never went away after I released the darts from the pins. (I didn't even use the pinching part. That was what secured it to the makeshift clothesline I set up with an Xbox cable. 9,9 I tucked the dart-ends into the end of the pin you squeeze to open the pinching-end. And still it disfigured the darts.)
The heat gun seemed to do nothing to the darts at all. So I brought it in closer. D'you know what happens when you grill a hotdog too long? That's what happened to the darts I brought the gun too close to.
Three darts were kinda-sorta straight after careful heatgunning, so I decided to dip them in Plastidip and test them out the next day.
Mistake #4 - Hanging the darts to drip so the tip was not level, causing the 'dip to dry in an uneven (unbalanced!) shape.
Despite all the mistakes, these darts ended up being extremely entertaining. I just plugged the pump on my Blast Bazooka, and was using it to test these darts. Each flew about ten feet, then seemed to stop in mid-air and start to...jig. It was as if each dart did a super-fast Riverdance performance just for me, and then fell straight down to the floor. I was incredulous. Must've been a terribly strange fluke! ...No, the other two did almost exactly the same thing.
Last night I tried again. I cut the foam using a hobby knife this time, sawing gently to avoid pinching. (I was using a stock micro to measure out lengths.) Once I had a dozen darts, I laid a strip of duct tape out sticky-side-up, then taped down the ends. I stuck the base of a dart to the strip, and tried the heatgun again.
It must be just the exact wrong tool to use for this. The darts straightened a tiny bit, then refused to improve from there. The tape worked extremely well though in keeping the dart secured against the blast from the heatgun.
I think I'm going to try and buy a test tube rack from Mendelson's this weekend, and use that to support my darts while they dry/straighten/etc.
Mistake #1 - Using scissors to cut my FBR. It pinches it, and makes the cut-end not-flat. Not-flat = Extremely bad.
Regardless, I threw all the darts in a pillowcase and tossed it in the dryer on low. After a total of five minutes or so in there, not a single dart had straightened noticeably.
Mistake #2 - Getting impatient and pulling out my heat gun.
Mistake #3 - Suspending the darts for heating by using clothespins. The pinch in the foam never went away after I released the darts from the pins. (I didn't even use the pinching part. That was what secured it to the makeshift clothesline I set up with an Xbox cable. 9,9 I tucked the dart-ends into the end of the pin you squeeze to open the pinching-end. And still it disfigured the darts.)
The heat gun seemed to do nothing to the darts at all. So I brought it in closer. D'you know what happens when you grill a hotdog too long? That's what happened to the darts I brought the gun too close to.
Three darts were kinda-sorta straight after careful heatgunning, so I decided to dip them in Plastidip and test them out the next day.
Mistake #4 - Hanging the darts to drip so the tip was not level, causing the 'dip to dry in an uneven (unbalanced!) shape.
Despite all the mistakes, these darts ended up being extremely entertaining. I just plugged the pump on my Blast Bazooka, and was using it to test these darts. Each flew about ten feet, then seemed to stop in mid-air and start to...jig. It was as if each dart did a super-fast Riverdance performance just for me, and then fell straight down to the floor. I was incredulous. Must've been a terribly strange fluke! ...No, the other two did almost exactly the same thing.
Last night I tried again. I cut the foam using a hobby knife this time, sawing gently to avoid pinching. (I was using a stock micro to measure out lengths.) Once I had a dozen darts, I laid a strip of duct tape out sticky-side-up, then taped down the ends. I stuck the base of a dart to the strip, and tried the heatgun again.
It must be just the exact wrong tool to use for this. The darts straightened a tiny bit, then refused to improve from there. The tape worked extremely well though in keeping the dart secured against the blast from the heatgun.
I think I'm going to try and buy a test tube rack from Mendelson's this weekend, and use that to support my darts while they dry/straighten/etc.
#89709 Arsenal Aprassial Thread
Posted by
on 14 September 2006 - 05:53 PM
in
General Nerf
These are most of my guns that are in one piece, at the moment. Not pictured but in addition to this, I have a Buzz Bee Tommy 20, and two Sneakshots.
Most of these will be modified, painted, and then sold. Eventually. I'm a slow worker, especially during the schoolyear.
From Left to Right...
And the back row.
One of the Nitefinders (Can you guess which one?) is modified, as well as one of the pictured Mavericks. My modded Firefly is in pieces right now, getting painted. The Longshot is modified with a spring addition and AR-removal. The Mustang 6 has just undergone some cosmetic surgery, no practical mods yet.
Most of these will be modified, painted, and then sold. Eventually. I'm a slow worker, especially during the schoolyear.
From Left to Right...
And the back row.
One of the Nitefinders (Can you guess which one?) is modified, as well as one of the pictured Mavericks. My modded Firefly is in pieces right now, getting painted. The Longshot is modified with a spring addition and AR-removal. The Mustang 6 has just undergone some cosmetic surgery, no practical mods yet.
#71245 An Actual "nite Finder" Mod
Posted by
on 19 January 2006 - 02:43 PM
in
Modifications
I love the maglite integration, but the e-tape ruins all the wonderful clean work you did. I suggest buying some styrene sheet, (the cheapest route is to buy a plastic sign from Home Depot/Lowe's, which are usually styrene) and build a sort of box around it. You needn't remove the e-tape, just hide it with the styrene. Then give the gun a nice paint job, and you'll have the nicest NF I've seen yet on the boards.
#164895 Chubbs
Posted by
on 28 July 2008 - 02:46 AM
in
Modifications
Hideous. Utterly.
You didn't even try to mold that junk behind the head, did you? It's a weird idea to start with, but you could have made it look neat. Scale pattern, more than one shade of green, etc.
You should've ruined an Oozinator instead. At least that already has reptile characteristics.
It also disturbs me that you're continuing to push 'sawing' to minimize the Vulcan when Splitlip has shown you can remove the front with a little unscrewing.
You didn't even try to mold that junk behind the head, did you? It's a weird idea to start with, but you could have made it look neat. Scale pattern, more than one shade of green, etc.
You should've ruined an Oozinator instead. At least that already has reptile characteristics.
It also disturbs me that you're continuing to push 'sawing' to minimize the Vulcan when Splitlip has shown you can remove the front with a little unscrewing.
#102249 Vinyl Dye
Posted by
on 15 April 2007 - 03:24 PM
in
Modifications
Good to see someone else touting vinyl dye. Aside from the Metalcast painted guns, most of my Nerf gun painting has been with the Duplicolor vinyl dye line. I never got good results with Krylon, so %*&! their couch.
It's true the color range is limited, but I did find that another brand of vinyl dye exists which comes in a much broader range of colors. It isn't available anywhere in my area though... It may've been this brand, as I do a quick google search to remind myself. http://www.autostyles.com/sem.htm 'SEM' brand vinyl dye.
Now, there are some things that weren't mentioned. You CANNOT dye plastic that has been painted with traditional paints. Vinyl dye works by seeping into microscopic pores in the plastic. When plastic is painted, the paint fills in those pores and makes it impossible to dye it. Vinyl dye on the other hand can always be dyed again. For example, the blue parts of the Maverick are original plastic and can be dyed. The yellow butt of the gun, the yellow stripe/rail on top of the gun, the gray parts of the slide, and the gray grip have all been painted at the factory. You can either sand those down to the original plastic (takes quite awhile) or you can prime and paint those bits with conventional paint.
Also, some plastic parts *do* require some prep work before using vinyl dye on them. Again using the Maverick as an example, the orange muzzle tip, trigger, yellow eject button, and revolver cylinder all should be washed with soap and water (and ideally lightly sanded after drying) to assure adhesion. I've had vinyl dye jobs flake right off those parts without that prep work. Most of it is merely removing the 'mold release' chemicals remaining on the plastic from the manufacturing process; those chemicals can prevent dye or paint from working properly.
Not all plastics will take the dye, as has been mentioned. Test the dye on a inconspicuous part of the project before going whole-hog. Let it dry as per the can's instructions, then attempt to scratch it off with your fingernail. If your nail has no effect, you're golden.
Vinyl dye is apparently even worse to inhale than other aerosol paints, so never use it in ill-ventilated areas and always use a mask. If you get a headache, stop painting immediately and get to some clear air.
I will emphasize Captain Slug's words about light coats. DO NOT attempt to get a solid color with each coat. Expect the original color to show through for the first two coats at least. If you overspray, you'll get drips and runs. I generally use three or four coats to completely recolor the gun. Patience!
It's true the color range is limited, but I did find that another brand of vinyl dye exists which comes in a much broader range of colors. It isn't available anywhere in my area though... It may've been this brand, as I do a quick google search to remind myself. http://www.autostyles.com/sem.htm 'SEM' brand vinyl dye.
Now, there are some things that weren't mentioned. You CANNOT dye plastic that has been painted with traditional paints. Vinyl dye works by seeping into microscopic pores in the plastic. When plastic is painted, the paint fills in those pores and makes it impossible to dye it. Vinyl dye on the other hand can always be dyed again. For example, the blue parts of the Maverick are original plastic and can be dyed. The yellow butt of the gun, the yellow stripe/rail on top of the gun, the gray parts of the slide, and the gray grip have all been painted at the factory. You can either sand those down to the original plastic (takes quite awhile) or you can prime and paint those bits with conventional paint.
Also, some plastic parts *do* require some prep work before using vinyl dye on them. Again using the Maverick as an example, the orange muzzle tip, trigger, yellow eject button, and revolver cylinder all should be washed with soap and water (and ideally lightly sanded after drying) to assure adhesion. I've had vinyl dye jobs flake right off those parts without that prep work. Most of it is merely removing the 'mold release' chemicals remaining on the plastic from the manufacturing process; those chemicals can prevent dye or paint from working properly.
Not all plastics will take the dye, as has been mentioned. Test the dye on a inconspicuous part of the project before going whole-hog. Let it dry as per the can's instructions, then attempt to scratch it off with your fingernail. If your nail has no effect, you're golden.
Vinyl dye is apparently even worse to inhale than other aerosol paints, so never use it in ill-ventilated areas and always use a mask. If you get a headache, stop painting immediately and get to some clear air.
I will emphasize Captain Slug's words about light coats. DO NOT attempt to get a solid color with each coat. Expect the original color to show through for the first two coats at least. If you overspray, you'll get drips and runs. I generally use three or four coats to completely recolor the gun. Patience!
#74777 Scope Mod!
Posted by
on 01 March 2006 - 03:01 AM
in
Modifications
Team_Slaya said it first, but yeah, dart-holders would be a great idea for that rail. You could slide 'em off for storage/holstering with that nice rail-attachment.
You could always mount a light on it too. Get one of those silly 'tactical' Airsoft lights, and use that green piece to fit it to the gun. Or you could be cruel and get ahold of some old flashbulbs... (Can you hear people screaming 'Flashbang!' yet?)
Or you could mount that green piece backwards onto the NF, (glue or screw it, you'd want it stationary) and use it to cock a Maverick in your other hand.
There are so many things you could put on the gun, you just need to puzzle 'em out and experiment. A scope was a logical first choice, though I suppose it has its fans and detractors.
You could always mount a light on it too. Get one of those silly 'tactical' Airsoft lights, and use that green piece to fit it to the gun. Or you could be cruel and get ahold of some old flashbulbs... (Can you hear people screaming 'Flashbang!' yet?)
Or you could mount that green piece backwards onto the NF, (glue or screw it, you'd want it stationary) and use it to cock a Maverick in your other hand.
There are so many things you could put on the gun, you just need to puzzle 'em out and experiment. A scope was a logical first choice, though I suppose it has its fans and detractors.
#79467 Buzz Bee New Guns!
Posted by
on 10 April 2006 - 05:56 PM
in
General Nerf
o,o
The 'Wild Wing' looks like a Dr. Seuss gun! Who did they have working on that thing?!
The Tommy could use some work. Knowing it's motorized though pretty much eliminates any chance of decent power. Their other motorized gun was the most pathetic toy I've ever had the misfortune to use.
The LBB knockoff actually looks better I think... Hopefully the insides are as durable and easy to mod.
The 'Wild Wing' looks like a Dr. Seuss gun! Who did they have working on that thing?!
The Tommy could use some work. Knowing it's motorized though pretty much eliminates any chance of decent power. Their other motorized gun was the most pathetic toy I've ever had the misfortune to use.
The LBB knockoff actually looks better I think... Hopefully the insides are as durable and easy to mod.
#85875 Longshot In My Possession
Posted by
on 27 July 2006 - 02:00 PM
in
General Nerf
The Ohio Walmarts have the Longshot as well, now. No Magstrikes that I've seen yet, thus far.
I think the only reason there were any left when I visited the store was because the six remaining were on the very top shelf. *I* certainly couldn't reach them, but my 6' 9" friend could, luckily.
I think the only reason there were any left when I visited the store was because the six remaining were on the very top shelf. *I* certainly couldn't reach them, but my 6' 9" friend could, luckily.
#85981 Longshot In My Possession
Posted by
on 29 July 2006 - 02:58 AM
in
General Nerf
Here's a shot of the inside of the Longshot's primary chamber, with the enormous air restrictor.
And here's the mess you'll make when you take apart a Longshot. Ugh! So many springs... Gotta take it all out to paint it though.
And here's the mess you'll make when you take apart a Longshot. Ugh! So many springs... Gotta take it all out to paint it though.
#80539 Clear-coating Chrome/metallic Silver Paint
Posted by
on 21 April 2006 - 02:12 PM
in
Modifications
I don't know how many of you have tried using highly-reflective silver/chrome paints yet, but you may have noticed that spraying on the usual protective clear coat will absolutely ruin the look of it. What was bright and shiny chrome becomes a dull pot-metal gray when clear-coated.
I discovered recently, reading prop-replica forum threads, that this is a well-known problem. The solution? Floor wax. Future Acrylic floor polish can be brushed (or airbrushed) over a chrome/silver paintjob, and not interfere with its look. I gather this is because it's an acrylic, and not a lacquer or enamel like the usual spray-paint clear coats are.
There's a thread here with more tips concerning use of the floor polish:
http://www.j-aircraf...loor_polish.htm
I recently made a blue/chrome Maverick for a friend, but the clear-coat ruined the beautiful shiny chrome and filled me with fathomless sorrow. :K( (Fortunately, the friend didn't care. :KD ) Now that I have this tip in my arsenal, I can create wonderful gleaming chrome pieces that won't get chipped or fingerprinted at the drop of a hat.
I discovered recently, reading prop-replica forum threads, that this is a well-known problem. The solution? Floor wax. Future Acrylic floor polish can be brushed (or airbrushed) over a chrome/silver paintjob, and not interfere with its look. I gather this is because it's an acrylic, and not a lacquer or enamel like the usual spray-paint clear coats are.
There's a thread here with more tips concerning use of the floor polish:
http://www.j-aircraf...loor_polish.htm
I recently made a blue/chrome Maverick for a friend, but the clear-coat ruined the beautiful shiny chrome and filled me with fathomless sorrow. :K( (Fortunately, the friend didn't care. :KD ) Now that I have this tip in my arsenal, I can create wonderful gleaming chrome pieces that won't get chipped or fingerprinted at the drop of a hat.
#75057 Who Are You?
Posted by
on 03 March 2006 - 08:29 PM
in
General Nerf
Low-rider came closest for me, though I'm not so protective of my paintjobs. ;K) And I modify my guns too where possible, so it isn't all cosmetic work. I mean, what's the point of having a pretty gun if it sucks?
#72200 The Sexbow 2.0
Posted by
on 03 February 2006 - 04:37 PM
in
Modifications
You're right, masking NFs *is* a pain in the rear. Around the grip in particular... I thought I had it sealed away nicely, but I got leaks beneath the tape as well.
Hobby shops sometimes carry a 'liquid masking' product that might help you out. You brush on a fairly heavy coat of it on whatever you don't want painted. Let it dry, then spray away. Once the paint has dried, use soap and water and the liquid mask stuff will wash right off along with the paint atop it.
I'm using it on the Firefly I'm painting now, just because it's shape is hopeless and the details would be insane to try and tape-mask.
Hobby shops sometimes carry a 'liquid masking' product that might help you out. You brush on a fairly heavy coat of it on whatever you don't want painted. Let it dry, then spray away. Once the paint has dried, use soap and water and the liquid mask stuff will wash right off along with the paint atop it.
I'm using it on the Firefly I'm painting now, just because it's shape is hopeless and the details would be insane to try and tape-mask.
#72040 The Sexbow 2.0
Posted by
on 31 January 2006 - 11:56 PM
in
Modifications
If the X-metals are anything like the Metalcast paint (and they should be, being virtually the same product for the same price) then no, they're not durable at all, and should be clear-coated multiple times. One clear-coat was not enough to keep my Metalcast green Maverick from getting the paint scraped off, despite having used a plastic primer, etc.
Clear coat is your friend! Make those fragile paintjobs endure!
Clear coat is your friend! Make those fragile paintjobs endure!
#71311 The Real Arsenal
Posted by
on 20 January 2006 - 12:16 PM
in
Off Topic
Reminds me of a quote on CSI last night, which I will corrupt for my purposes.
'Who brings a gun to a Nerf fight?'
'...The winner?'
'Who brings a gun to a Nerf fight?'
'...The winner?'
#73223 Compressed Air
Posted by
on 15 February 2006 - 07:46 PM
in
General Nerf
I brought this up at Nerfhq a few weeks ago. A lot was said, (most of it the same things repeated over and over). http://www.nerfhq.co...opic.php?t=2598
The long and short of it was that Nerfers thought that using compressed air was defeating the 'spirit' of Nerf. Plus, it isn't economical, and one of the advantages Nerf has over Airsoft or Paintball is that it's cheap. Using compressed air transplants one of the major expenses of both those others into Nerf.
The long and short of it was that Nerfers thought that using compressed air was defeating the 'spirit' of Nerf. Plus, it isn't economical, and one of the advantages Nerf has over Airsoft or Paintball is that it's cheap. Using compressed air transplants one of the major expenses of both those others into Nerf.
#163730 New Gen Tommy 20
Posted by
on 22 July 2008 - 04:36 PM
in
General Nerf
At Toys 'R Us it was selling for $29.99.
No, I will not type up the instructions. 9,9 I didn't purchase the gun, so I have no better resolution to work from than you, and of course have no idea what the ROF is. Looking very closely at my photo of the back of the box though, it seems that there are two fire modes. If one is single-fire, that doesn't leave many possibilities for the other mode.
No, I will not type up the instructions. 9,9 I didn't purchase the gun, so I have no better resolution to work from than you, and of course have no idea what the ROF is. Looking very closely at my photo of the back of the box though, it seems that there are two fire modes. If one is single-fire, that doesn't leave many possibilities for the other mode.
#163568 New Gen Tommy 20
Posted by
on 21 July 2008 - 03:28 PM
in
General Nerf
Visit http://flickr.com/ph...tty/2690425756/ for larger sizes.
Visit http://flickr.com/ph...tty/2690424406/ for larger sizes.
Found at Toys 'R Us in Miamisburg OH.
#71328 Nerf Guns
Posted by
on 20 January 2006 - 04:52 PM
in
General Nerf
I figure that the guy who designs the gun shows everyone the product at its pinnacle. Awesome paintjob, (or possibly just uncolored plastic...) no air restrictors or safety features. They want to 'sell' the gun to the manufacturer, right? You'd want it to be impressive. I can imagine the Maverick must have made a big splash when it was presented.
Then Nerf inserts safety features to tone it down, then gives it a nice cheerful primary-color paint job. Bleah!
Then Nerf inserts safety features to tone it down, then gives it a nice cheerful primary-color paint job. Bleah!
#76213 Golden Gun Night Finder
Posted by
on 14 March 2006 - 11:08 PM
in
Modifications
While normally I use vinyl dye when I want to change the color of something plastic, those orange pieces are stubbornly resistant to the stuff. In most cases I've had to use the primer-->spraypaint-->clear coat combination. That way it doesn't wear out so fast, and usually still moves smoothly. I wouldn't try it on anything too intricate, but the trigger and muzzle rim are fair game.
#72769 How To Make Good Use Of The Nerf Tech Target
Posted by
on 10 February 2006 - 11:40 AM
in
General Nerf
I think the point they're trying to make is that there was really no point in sharing the fact you'd smashed a toy. Sure, show us the pistol, but...the other stuff was pointless.
If you'd stopped to think before posting, you might have come to the conclusion that making a post about the deliberate destruction of a Nerf product probably wasn't going to be received well.
If you simply had to show how you'd pointlessly ruined a toy, it should've gone into offtopic. Sure, smashing stuff can be fun. I won't deny that. But next time smash something that's already busted. And then don't post about it here. Everyone wins. 
If you'd stopped to think before posting, you might have come to the conclusion that making a post about the deliberate destruction of a Nerf product probably wasn't going to be received well.
If you simply had to show how you'd pointlessly ruined a toy, it should've gone into offtopic. Sure, smashing stuff can be fun.
I won't deny that. But next time smash something that's already busted. And then don't post about it here. Everyone wins.
#70627 What Paint Should I Use
Posted by
on 08 January 2006 - 05:28 AM
in
General Nerf
I suggest Duplicolor's Vinyl dye line. You can get it in black, silver, red, yellow, blue and gray. With most plastics, (so long as they haven't been painted previously,) the dye will soak right into the plastic and give you a color that won't chip, scratch, or peel. This may be the same thing Krylon Fusion does, I'm not sure. I've never used it.
If you want to use conventional spraypaint, put down a coat of 'plastic primer' first. It'll greatly improve the adhesion of whatever paint you follow it with. (Do *not* use any kind of primer if you want to vinyl dye the gun.)
For touchup, I recommend Testors paint pens. Great for getting into little nooks and crannies, covering up mistakes, repairing minor damage, etc.
As for auto paints, be careful. Check the toluene percentage. If it's more than 10 percent by weight it could be trouble. But as long as you use a plastic primer first, you shouldn't have a problem. I recently tried a Duplicolor 'Metalcast' paint on a Maverick. I sprayed it with a coat of plastic primer, than a coat of Metalcast 'ground coat', then finished with two coats of the green Metalcast. The result is pretty nifty, though it isn't perfect.
If you want to use conventional spraypaint, put down a coat of 'plastic primer' first. It'll greatly improve the adhesion of whatever paint you follow it with. (Do *not* use any kind of primer if you want to vinyl dye the gun.)
For touchup, I recommend Testors paint pens. Great for getting into little nooks and crannies, covering up mistakes, repairing minor damage, etc.
As for auto paints, be careful. Check the toluene percentage. If it's more than 10 percent by weight it could be trouble. But as long as you use a plastic primer first, you shouldn't have a problem. I recently tried a Duplicolor 'Metalcast' paint on a Maverick. I sprayed it with a coat of plastic primer, than a coat of Metalcast 'ground coat', then finished with two coats of the green Metalcast. The result is pretty nifty, though it isn't perfect.
#70649 What Paint Should I Use
Posted by
on 08 January 2006 - 04:39 PM
in
General Nerf
Duplicolor's vinyl dye runs about 5.99 per can. In my experience you can paint about four Mavericks with one can. Probably more if you're economical about your spraying.
#72580 Micro Titan
Posted by
on 07 February 2006 - 12:21 PM
in
Modifications
I suggest finding a piece of PVC pipe, and use a bracket and screws to secure it to the gun...then slot the pump into it. More secure, the pump is protected, and it will look better.
#166892 Steampunk Mav Mod
Posted by
on 06 August 2008 - 06:11 PM
in
Modifications
You know, more and more I'm thinking this guy must be a troll. I have a hard time believing anyone would title a post the way they did and then show us...that.
#166727 Steampunk Mav Mod
Posted by
on 05 August 2008 - 09:59 AM
in
Modifications
There is *nothing* steampunk about it. Not that that's a bad thing these days with so many people slapping clock parts on a gun and declaring it steampunk. But, the paintjob sucks too.
Starting a topic with the title you did is just asking for trouble, you know. I could forgive it if you were Direct Threat (even though it would make even him sound like a douche) but this... Yuck.
Starting a topic with the title you did is just asking for trouble, you know. I could forgive it if you were Direct Threat (even though it would make even him sound like a douche) but this... Yuck.
#174063 Rapid Fire 20 Death Skull Mod Video
Posted by
on 01 September 2008 - 02:22 AM
in
Modifications
Nice, clean work on the skull.
It always kind of shocks me when people post these neat things, then turn right around and hock it on Ebay. If I had a RF20 like that, I'd keep it for myself! :K)
It always kind of shocks me when people post these neat things, then turn right around and hock it on Ebay. If I had a RF20 like that, I'd keep it for myself! :K)
