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Modded Brain 115's Content
There have been 29 items by Modded Brain 115 (Search limited from 03-September 94)
If I understand this correctly, this means that this could slamfire, since the catch is only disengaged when the blaster is primed forward.
Like a said earlier (scroll up), it has to be kept pushed forward to fire properly. If it's not, it won't fire. I consider this a safety feature.
I talked to -Delta and apparently you can custom order the length of the foam you want, if you contact the supplier. He bought his in a 40 ft. roll, so you could probably buy reasonable amounts straight from the supplier. Just thought that was worth noting for anyone who wants some.
1. The website isn't user friendly by the looks of it.
2. You have to purchase it in FREAKING 1,250 FT ROLLS!!!
For you optimistic people, though, here are the outnumbering pros for his foam.
2. It's heat resistant.
3. According to him, and if this is his foam, it's very dense.
4. Also according to him, it has perfect fit in CPVC, snug fit in 17/32 brass, loose fit in 9/16 brass and PETG.
5. Not that badly priced, with it being 7 US dollars for 20 ft.
BTW: My first post!!
Most of the time, the dart doesn't fire/makes a hiss. While removing the pegs, I also accidentally Dremeled some on the outside on a few barrels; this might have something to do with it, I don't know.
Could anyone give advice or tell me what I did wrong? Thanks in advance!
EDIT: The problem has nothing to do with the ARs, as when I removed them my darts still did not fire. I also looked for leaks in the turrent, but there aren't any either.
There are no holes in the barrels, but the outside of the barrel is widened slightly, which might result in a leak.
Creating an incision into one of the barrels with the dremel.
How badly are the barrels nicked?
The complete ARs have not been removed, only the pegs that restrict stefans.
Did you remove the complete air restrictor or just the dart peg?
From this, it seems that you removed the complete air restrictor.
The dremel bumping into the inside of the barrel shouldn't have harmed anything, as long as it struck only the loose part.
You need to provide pictures and be more clear about your problem before we can help you.
I can't get pictures up right now, but try to as soon as possible.
The ARs aren't in any orientation, but cannot interfer with the posts, in which they aren't.
I know that this MIGHT be negligible input but sometimes carelessness gets the best of us...
Did you install the ARs back properly in place?
If there's any particular orientation for each AR, did you make sure the orientation of each AR is aligned correct?
Did you install the ARs back in the correct order?
That might affect airflow.
Also, did you close up the turret correctly?
I've never opened up the turret myself, but I was the one who studied the AR structure and shared it online.
I watched Coop's video on modding the RC, and the reason why I'm bringing his name into this comment is because it was mentioned in an earlier reply.
Coop put his turret into boiling water to loosen up the adhesive holding the turret together.
By any chance did you accidentally warp the insides or any part of the turret? That might also affect the airflow.
I pried my turrent open using a screw driver to wedge it. The turrent is completely friction-fit; there is no reason in boiling it.
He specifically said to begin with that he based his idea on his. Anyway, that is pure (for some reason it automatically changes this to something else) Effeminateness
awesome job man, that is wicked cool!! Not trying to compare you to him, but have you seen the one that Ice (uin13) did back before he quit nerf?
Thanks, I just know that there are some motors that come with stock resisters and go only one way.
It means there is no left / right motor. There is one motor. If you want it to spin the other direction you reverse the polarity. The way these motors sit in the plastic flywheel housing you just wire them up the same way the OE motors were wired, sans thermistors. Don't over-think it.