I'm trying to make a nerf shotgun, and I'm open to suggestions. Zero, if you're reading, I ask permission for your genius silencer design, and Boltsniper for his brilliant trigger system.
When I say "Shotgun," I'm referring to the way the weapon loads shells into a magazine below the barrel and how the pump cycles the weapon. The design is similar to Boltsniper's SCAR-N.
One more thing, I'm a noob. Deal with it.
Edit: There is an update on this project at the bottom of page 20.
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#92596 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 22 October 2006 - 01:50 PM
in
Homemades
#92830 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 24 October 2006 - 02:25 PM
in
Homemades
Now that I've finally got back to my computer, I'll elaborate.
First, the term "shotgun" in my title only reffers to how the weapon loads. If I wanted to fire multiple shots, I would need a sabot or something, and that's really not a design I can get into right now. To load the shells, I was going to use a carrier in front of the magazine. For those of you who have shotguns, this idea will probably be familiar. If not, then visit this website (http://science.howst...om/shotgun5.htm). Towards the bottom of the page, there will be a box titled "pump-action shotguns." If you play all the way through that, and study both the tab on loading and the tab on firing and ejecting, then my concept will be broken down for you.
Next, my ammunition problems. Since I am planning to use shells for this weapon, I am trying to borrow the design that boltsniper used for his SCAR-N. Those shells and stefan darts should give me some good ammo. To keep the shell and dart from sliding out of the barrel, I will use a rotating-bolt lockup unit like the ones found in shotguns, assault rifles, and the SCAR-N. this will provide the basis for me to both hold and extract the shell. The weapon can be cycled by connecting an operating rod to the pump grip and the other end to the bolt. If you look at the bolt concept of the SCAR-N, you can see the nail sticking through the side. That should be what I connect the rod to.
I want to make a practical, compact, yet sturdy design so my gun doesn't fall apart if I slam-fire or am rough with the pump. The silencer is for quiet shots if the weapon has a decent-enough range for "sn1per" operations. I would be grateful if I even got 20' on the first attempt, seeing as this is my first homemade. I promise you guys out there that as soon as I get my scanner working, I'll put up one of my rough sketches on here for you to all see what I'm talking about. If you have any ideas or alterations after visiting the HowStuffWorks page, then I'm all for your suggestions. I'll need them to make sure my idea holds water before I go off and build a failure.
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA
First, the term "shotgun" in my title only reffers to how the weapon loads. If I wanted to fire multiple shots, I would need a sabot or something, and that's really not a design I can get into right now. To load the shells, I was going to use a carrier in front of the magazine. For those of you who have shotguns, this idea will probably be familiar. If not, then visit this website (http://science.howst...om/shotgun5.htm). Towards the bottom of the page, there will be a box titled "pump-action shotguns." If you play all the way through that, and study both the tab on loading and the tab on firing and ejecting, then my concept will be broken down for you.
Next, my ammunition problems. Since I am planning to use shells for this weapon, I am trying to borrow the design that boltsniper used for his SCAR-N. Those shells and stefan darts should give me some good ammo. To keep the shell and dart from sliding out of the barrel, I will use a rotating-bolt lockup unit like the ones found in shotguns, assault rifles, and the SCAR-N. this will provide the basis for me to both hold and extract the shell. The weapon can be cycled by connecting an operating rod to the pump grip and the other end to the bolt. If you look at the bolt concept of the SCAR-N, you can see the nail sticking through the side. That should be what I connect the rod to.
I want to make a practical, compact, yet sturdy design so my gun doesn't fall apart if I slam-fire or am rough with the pump. The silencer is for quiet shots if the weapon has a decent-enough range for "sn1per" operations. I would be grateful if I even got 20' on the first attempt, seeing as this is my first homemade. I promise you guys out there that as soon as I get my scanner working, I'll put up one of my rough sketches on here for you to all see what I'm talking about. If you have any ideas or alterations after visiting the HowStuffWorks page, then I'm all for your suggestions. I'll need them to make sure my idea holds water before I go off and build a failure.
SHADOW HUNTER ALPHA
#92863 Homemade Shotgun Question
Posted by
on 24 October 2006 - 05:13 PM
in
Homemades
If you have single slug-type rounds to fire out of your "shotgun," and not pellet-like clusters, then use the shells. The only other reason I could possibly think to use shells is if you keep getting bent darts when you try to load.
Keep in mind that if you use shells, you will have to get a bolt system and extractor, instead of just a plunger. If you want to keep this design simple, then just don't use shells.
P.S.: If you ignore this and make shells anyway, then make sure they are small and light, like brass. Do not use anything bulky, like PVC or anything that is too hard and time-consuming to replace if you get them lost.
Keep in mind that if you use shells, you will have to get a bolt system and extractor, instead of just a plunger. If you want to keep this design simple, then just don't use shells.
P.S.: If you ignore this and make shells anyway, then make sure they are small and light, like brass. Do not use anything bulky, like PVC or anything that is too hard and time-consuming to replace if you get them lost.
#92875 Homemade Problems
Posted by
on 24 October 2006 - 06:25 PM
in
Homemades
Check for cracks in the bolt and barrel. Seal any holes up with super glue or electrical tape, and then make sure that your O-rings are large enough to fit on the bolt, but form a nice, tight fit. A brass barrel like Bone suggested would greatly reduce pressure loss.
You'll also want to check that the dart can't slide out of the barrel. If the barrel is removeable, then take it out and put a dart in the end the bolt connects. If the dart slides out without any force, then it is too small. If it gets caught on the way in, it's too big. The only reason I put these basics up here is that I overlook stupid shit in my work all the time.
You'll also want to check that the dart can't slide out of the barrel. If the barrel is removeable, then take it out and put a dart in the end the bolt connects. If the dart slides out without any force, then it is too small. If it gets caught on the way in, it's too big. The only reason I put these basics up here is that I overlook stupid shit in my work all the time.
#92882 Need Help With Scar-n
Posted by
on 24 October 2006 - 06:47 PM
in
Homemades
I'm with the others who say to attempt something easier, but if you wanted to study the close-up pics on a computer and clean them up a bit on photoshop or something, most of the parts become clearer to build. If you follow Boltsniper's diagrams, it will be easier, but not by much. Besides, there are few of us here who could even match Boltsniper's genius. Instead of building his design, build your own and get a feel for homemades that way first.
#92969 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 25 October 2006 - 03:49 PM
in
Homemades
I had the same question you did, Flaming Hilt. Instead of dismantling a real shotgun, or spending days over how the carrier and carrier dog were connected, I decided to re-design the piece. I have an idea that if I make the carrier out of a piece of aluminum or PVC, I can attach it at a single point in front of the trigger guard inside the gun. I would then attach a spring that would force the carrier up to meet the bolt, but have no carrier dog. Instead, there will be a separate piece above the carrier and attached to the bolt that looks like a mini-replica of the carrier. It will have a more powerful spring so that when the piece, which I will now call a depression tab, is depressed, the extra force of the spring will compress the carrier with it and force it into the resting position. When the pump moves the bolt back, the depression tab will fold upwards as it and the bolt travel backwards, allowing the carrier to flip upwards to load a shell. Another beefit of this design is the ability to load shells into the magazine without moving the pump, since the force with which I load the shell will counteract and negate the force of the depression tab spring. When the shell is all the way in the magazine, the depression tab spring will put the carrier back in resting position. I know this is hard to understand without a diagram, but I'll be able to hook up a scanner to my laptop within the next couple days and start posting some rough designs to work with. If you want, print them out and pencil in some modifications, and repost them up here for me to see. It'll be a lot easier to design this homemade if I have some veterans' advice.
P.S.: If you have no idea what the hell I'm talking about, go to howstuffworks.com and search for "how shotguns work". Look for the page about the loading system and use the interactive feature designed on Macromedia Flash Player to go to the slide on the carrier. You'll see the carrier dog, the piece that I intend to move.
P.S.: If you have no idea what the hell I'm talking about, go to howstuffworks.com and search for "how shotguns work". Look for the page about the loading system and use the interactive feature designed on Macromedia Flash Player to go to the slide on the carrier. You'll see the carrier dog, the piece that I intend to move.
#92971 Idea For A Revolver
Posted by
on 25 October 2006 - 04:16 PM
in
Homemades
This is actually a more sound idea than I thought it was. If you had some small CO2 tanks, like the kind you use in air guns, then you can rig up a design to look like a 3-barreled revolver. The CO2 bottles can be stored in the wheel magazine, where you would normally store a bullet in a real revolver, but have each slot connected to the back of a barrel. To puncture the bottle, you could have a design that is similar to the connectors used in paintball guns. Then, when the pressure is built up, you could have a small butterfly valve or some other simle system to open all the CO2 chambers at the same time. The only problem is that the pressure under which those CO2 tanks are filled could rupture the revolver or eventually bleed out if not used within the first few minutes. A high pressure vessel would be required to prevent this, and that might make the gun heavier than it needs to be. I don't know, it was just a thought.
#92983 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 25 October 2006 - 06:22 PM
in
Homemades
This is the hand-drawn version of my design. It shows a rough plan of what I intend to do. If you read my last post, you'll understand what the depression tab is and where it is here. Anyway, now that you have an idea of what I'm doing, I hope you understand what I will be talking about. This image should help to clear up some of the confusion.
Special thanks to LastManAlive for educating my stupid ass on photo embedding
#93054 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 26 October 2006 - 08:04 PM
in
Homemades
The gun is, in fact, fully pump-operated. Now that I have the picture working, you can see the pump in the front on the bottom tube, which would be the magazine. It is small because I didn't draw this particular diagram to scale. I'm also thinking about cutting a thin strip out of the bottom of the magazine tube and refitting the hole with something clear like Plexiglass, only much stronger. I already found out that using Plexiglass in a major part of a homemade can cause breaks and failures in a design like mine. (Third-person witness to second-hand stupidity). If any of you know where I can get a tube of the material I'm describing that fits the size shell boltsniper used in his SCAR-N, PM me and give me the store name.
P.S.: Forgot to mention that I don't need a spring for the bolt if the pump will be cnonnected directly to it. Also, those 2 things on the front of the weapon are a silencer and an LED flashlight for CQB operations. (Close quarters battle)
P.S.: Forgot to mention that I don't need a spring for the bolt if the pump will be cnonnected directly to it. Also, those 2 things on the front of the weapon are a silencer and an LED flashlight for CQB operations. (Close quarters battle)
#93063 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 26 October 2006 - 09:08 PM
in
Homemades
Not exactly related to my plan, but a clothespin trigger usually works more effectively when the plunger can be located directly above it. The design I have has the plunger at least 15cm back from the trigger, so a design like the SCAR-N trigger system would probably be better.
However, getting back to the idea of a mag-fed pump-action, your idea for reducing excess room near the bolt is something I've been thinking about. If you know how a shotgun works, then you know how the carrier works. The depression tab in my design has to be built so that the tab won't come down until the shell is already loaded in the breech. If you come up with anything, let me know.
However, getting back to the idea of a mag-fed pump-action, your idea for reducing excess room near the bolt is something I've been thinking about. If you know how a shotgun works, then you know how the carrier works. The depression tab in my design has to be built so that the tab won't come down until the shell is already loaded in the breech. If you come up with anything, let me know.
#93096 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 27 October 2006 - 03:11 PM
in
Homemades
Nice drawing. But how big will the gun really be?
Will multiple darts fit in each shell?
The gun will, ideally, be no bigger than Boltsniper's SCAR-N. If I incorporate the plunger tube into the stock, then I could theoretically shorten the gun by around 20cm, and also eliminate some durability problems with an attached stock rather than an integrated stock. That little stub you see sticking out of the left part of the drawing was going to be an attached stock, but I scrapped the idea and forgot to erase the part from my sketch.
The gun will have shells, but I don't plan to have multiple projectiles per shot. It will be a slug-gun type weapon, like I said earlier. In order to fire off multiple shots, I would need to involve sabots or something of the like, and that would only be as a proof of concept attempt. Multiple pellets wouldn't go very far anyway, so it would almost be pointless for wars that aren't fought in buildings.
#93131 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 27 October 2006 - 08:28 PM
in
Homemades
I understand where you're coming from, sponge, but I am using shells for a completely different reason. For the design I have, the darts have to be stacked end-to-end in the horizontal magazine tube. If I were to put plain darts in there, they would get bent and creased by the mag-spring's force. The shells are used only as a sort of insurance to make sure my ammo doesn't get screwed up before the first shot. Plus, the shells provide a surface for the mag-spring to contact. Otherwise, an unshielded spring might dig into the hot-glue tip of my stefan and mess up the entire mag system. Trust me, if there was a simpler, yet more effective way to do this, I would be modifying my design already. (Plus, shells do look kinda cool. But that's another story.)
#93139 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 27 October 2006 - 09:08 PM
in
Homemades
So, yes, I am making the halo 2 shotgun. - LastManAlive
That Halo 2 shotgun concept seems like it might fit my plan right down to the sights. If you come across any advantages or problems in the design, PM me or post them here.
#93164 Nerf-emplacement Cannon
Posted by
on 28 October 2006 - 10:28 AM
in
Homemades
You were right, sponge. Once the bipod legs are on this thing, it's gonna be HUGE. I don't know how big your bike is, but if it's the same size as mine, then the gun might very well be the length of a pick-up truck bed. A suggestion to you for your bipod or whatever legs you'll get: make sure they can fold up towards the gun and inwards so that they can be carried easily. (I guess what I'm trying to say is that if you make a bipod, make sure the legs have a flexible joint near the gun that allows them to be folded up to meet the body of the gun. Then, make sure they can fold themselves inward so they just look like twin tubes beneath the barrel or tank.) This is just for practicality should you have to move this thing around your house. It would suck to get this awesome gun built and then have the bipod snap off when you go to move it.
#93165 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 28 October 2006 - 10:46 AM
in
Homemades
LastManAlive:
Sounds like someone has done his homework. I agree that both of our concepts have some flaws, and there's no getting around that. My carrier and bolt designs are going to be pains in the ass to build, since I haven't seen anyone do this kind of thing before. Your gravity feed is also going to have a lot of problems with jamming in an intense firefight. However, I think that a lot of the problems in our systems can be worked out through trial and error if we both contriibute to each other's designs. It would also help to see some other readers contribute ideas based on their experience as well. Hopefully, some of my parts will be compatible with parts or upgrades you may be developing after or during your project.
Sounds like someone has done his homework. I agree that both of our concepts have some flaws, and there's no getting around that. My carrier and bolt designs are going to be pains in the ass to build, since I haven't seen anyone do this kind of thing before. Your gravity feed is also going to have a lot of problems with jamming in an intense firefight. However, I think that a lot of the problems in our systems can be worked out through trial and error if we both contriibute to each other's designs. It would also help to see some other readers contribute ideas based on their experience as well. Hopefully, some of my parts will be compatible with parts or upgrades you may be developing after or during your project.
#93166 Idea For A Revolver
Posted by
on 28 October 2006 - 10:53 AM
in
Homemades
I realize that my CO2 design may not be simple or effective in drawn-out firefights, but it provides a better seal than a revolving magazine, and it allows for a great pressure:range ratio because the gun doesn't use plungers, but compressed gas. The problem with a revolving magazine is that the pressure built up behind the dart, either via plunger or compressed gas, will be dispersed earlier because of the space between the barrel and the rear of the pistol that the magazine has to have to rotate. If you could make a self-sealing revolver like the WWII Russian Mosin-Nagant Revolver, then the idea would be much more practical.
#93204 Nerf-emplacement Cannon
Posted by
on 28 October 2006 - 08:10 PM
in
Homemades
Maybe you should hook up a battery-powered air compressor to a one-way valve on the tank. That would reduce priming time by a hell of a lot. Otherwise you could be stuck there for ten minutes trying to pump that tank up. Also, as long as that gun is, I don't really think you could fit a longer barrel on to make it the appropriate size, if what DTReaper says is true.
#93209 Soleniod Valves
Posted by
on 28 October 2006 - 08:25 PM
in
Homemades
A simple solenoid is probably best, and I imagine Radioshack sells them cheap. I have actually seen solenoids only slightly bigger than 1cm, but you might want something a little larger and easier to access. I think there's a special valve (can't remember the name right now) that you can buy seperately to hook up to one, but I'm not sure how or what size it is. If I can get the specifics, then I'll PM or post it.
#93232 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 09:14 AM
in
Homemades
Flaming Hilt:
It sounds like the shotgun you want to build will be a break-open breech type weapon. If that is indeed what you are doing, then you probably do not need or want a pump. Shotguns and other weapons that use pumps have a solid frame, where the cycling rod can be directly attached to both the pump and the bolt. Break-open shotguns are only connected at one point: the hinge. this means that there will be no way to effectively attach a pump while still having it [the pump] serve a useful purpose. Since my design has a rigid frame, a pump would be the most beneficial. For breech-loaders, you can either manually cock the weapon with a charging handle, or you can find some way to make the two hinged halves of the gun cock the weapon as they fold back together.
My own gun will probably have some tight fits with the carrier, but that should be the only real problem. As far as I know, I'm the first one here to ever use a carrier, so it looks like I might have to pioneer some fabrication techniques. However, when I get the gun finished, it should definitely be something to look forward to.
It sounds like the shotgun you want to build will be a break-open breech type weapon. If that is indeed what you are doing, then you probably do not need or want a pump. Shotguns and other weapons that use pumps have a solid frame, where the cycling rod can be directly attached to both the pump and the bolt. Break-open shotguns are only connected at one point: the hinge. this means that there will be no way to effectively attach a pump while still having it [the pump] serve a useful purpose. Since my design has a rigid frame, a pump would be the most beneficial. For breech-loaders, you can either manually cock the weapon with a charging handle, or you can find some way to make the two hinged halves of the gun cock the weapon as they fold back together.
My own gun will probably have some tight fits with the carrier, but that should be the only real problem. As far as I know, I'm the first one here to ever use a carrier, so it looks like I might have to pioneer some fabrication techniques. However, when I get the gun finished, it should definitely be something to look forward to.
#93234 Nerf-emplacement Cannon
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 09:27 AM
in
Homemades
That was pretty smart making a removeable and interchangeable barrel. Make sure you tell us exactly what you shot and how far it went, plus the angle you fired it from (straight forward, 45 degrees. doesn't have to be perfect, I just wanted to know). Also, if you have an imperfect fit in a barrel, such as a potato, then shove a wad of cotton or a piece of carpet foam down the barrel first to equilize the pressure distribution (like a kind of half-sabot).
You're right, though. That thing does look really fun to shoot. Just don't aim at anything made of glass or anything that wants to continue living.
You're right, though. That thing does look really fun to shoot. Just don't aim at anything made of glass or anything that wants to continue living.
#93246 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 12:41 PM
in
Homemades
LastManAlive:
I looked over your post again and realized that I mixed up the word "travel" with "gravitate" because there is a typo there. However, there is still a problem with your design. The size of your dart and the size of the breech can be perfectly identical, but if the edge of another dart even gets caught between the rim of the breech and the loading system, you are going to have some major problems with the firing because now there is a bent-up dart that prevents the breech from closing and getting a good seal. That either means that you can't fire, or the pressure that is lost while firing is too little to propel the dart out of the barrel.
Also, I don't know whether you are going to make a true breech-loader or a magazine-fed shotgun, because they are definitely not the same things. PM me a picture and I might be able to understand and help you.
I looked over your post again and realized that I mixed up the word "travel" with "gravitate" because there is a typo there. However, there is still a problem with your design. The size of your dart and the size of the breech can be perfectly identical, but if the edge of another dart even gets caught between the rim of the breech and the loading system, you are going to have some major problems with the firing because now there is a bent-up dart that prevents the breech from closing and getting a good seal. That either means that you can't fire, or the pressure that is lost while firing is too little to propel the dart out of the barrel.
Also, I don't know whether you are going to make a true breech-loader or a magazine-fed shotgun, because they are definitely not the same things. PM me a picture and I might be able to understand and help you.
#93250 Ammo Case
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 01:12 PM
in
Homemades
You would have to secure the PVC at the base to prevent them from falling out. If you tape them, the tape only holds the outermost pieces together. Also, it might be more sturdy if you stagger the pipes, similar to the design you find on the #5 sides of dice. A height-adjustable base would also be useful, because it would allow for the manfacture of multiple sizes of stefans. However, the idea by itself is still useful for someone who needs to produce assloads of darts at a time. (My recommendation to people who want to try this idea or the ammo holders, make sure at least 1/2 inch of the dart is sticking out of the top of the hole so if you miss with the glue gun, you don't f*ck anything up trying to get the glue off the sides pf the pipe/hole.)
#93252 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 01:20 PM
in
Homemades
That diagram looks a lot like the one on HowStuffWorks.com. Anyway, that whole carrier dog / carrier sync bit is why I tossed the idea and designed a depression tab: it's much simpler to use my new design, and it's so much easier to fabricate that a PVC box of like 12 little gears that probably get messed up when you drop the gun. If you had any ideas while designing your shotty, Ronster, then post them. LastManAlive, Flaming Hilt, and I could use them. It appears I am not alone on this project.
#93254 Homemades Picture Thread
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 01:23 PM
in
Homemades
Damn, sponge. I can't wait for those test-shot results. By the way, how long is the barrel on that thing?
#93280 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 04:36 PM
in
Homemades
I just got the top-notch kickass photoshop program loaded on my laptop, so here's a detailed sketch of the depression tab and carrier that I modified from one of my older sketches.
All of the major parts have been labeled so there's no confusion. The depression tab is indicated, and the vertical line connecting it to the bolt is the spring. In the carrier spring base, the U-shaped gray thing is the carrier spring, fully compressed. I'm sorry that there's little defenition between the carrier and the bottom of the magazine, but the carrier ends where the bolt and barrel meet. That should give you a general idea.
All of the major parts have been labeled so there's no confusion. The depression tab is indicated, and the vertical line connecting it to the bolt is the spring. In the carrier spring base, the U-shaped gray thing is the carrier spring, fully compressed. I'm sorry that there's little defenition between the carrier and the bottom of the magazine, but the carrier ends where the bolt and barrel meet. That should give you a general idea.
#93281 Nerf-emplacement Cannon
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 04:42 PM
in
Homemades
Seal off the bottom of the T-pipe that connects the tank, legs, and barrel at the part connecting the legs. Leave the legs off while you charge the tank so you can make sure the seal holds, but keep the open/sealed end POINTED IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION FROM YOU. This way you won't get hurt or knocked over if the seal blows out. Seal it with either a scrap section of PVC or some other pressure-resistant material, and use krazy glue, epoxy and/or PVC cement, and use a LOT of it. Check to make sure the valve is not leaking by pouring some water over the joints there and watching for bubbles as you charge it. If that doesn't work, PM me or post what still did/didn't happen.
#93285 Ammo Case
Posted by
on 29 October 2006 - 06:07 PM
in
Homemades
Damn, that's cheap. I may have to take you up on that offer. I have a feeling I'll need to be making assloads of stefans soon, and this is going to help me a lot. I may also be making deals with you in the future. PM me about how you intend to sell me these things.
#93366 Nerf-emplacement Cannon
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 04:32 PM
in
Homemades
It might be wise to coat all of the joints in the tank area and near the barrel and ball valve with some of the purple PVC primer, and then seal it up with a second coat once dry. The second coat is not necessary, but it will act like insurance to make sure nothing leaks for a while. Once the primer is dry, then charge the tank again while pouring water over all the joints. Look for any bubbles, and mark any joints where bubbles are coming from. Then go back and seal those again with more primer. If this doesn't work, then you might have an even worse problem that I thought.
#93368 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 04:45 PM
in
Homemades
The depression tab and carrier are not connected, however, the spring power that forces the depression tab down is enough to force the carrier down as well. The depression tab is connected to the bolt instead, so when the bolt rotates and moves back, the depression tab will follow and let the carrier come up. The tab pivots at the inner angle opposite the depression tab spring, and contacts the carrier at the wedge-shaped piece above the carrier spring base. The carrier's pivot point is where the hypotenuse and the vertical side of the carrier's wedge meet.
To address the problem of shells slipping out under the carrier, I plan to make a small spring-loaded tab that will be able to fold in towards the magazine to load a shell, but not out when the shells try to fly out from under the carrier. Also, the space for the carrier to hold the shells will be limited to exactly 1 shell and no fractions above or under that. To stop the shells from loading themselves onto the carrier and preventing the carrier from being pushed up to load more shells into the magazine, I might have to design some type of catch on the mag. tube that you flip and it blocks off the shells. I will probably try something else, though, because that seems like it might take way too long to load this thing if I use that idea. (I'd have to flip the catch up and down for every shell I load.)
If you have any other problems or solutions, then tell me.
To address the problem of shells slipping out under the carrier, I plan to make a small spring-loaded tab that will be able to fold in towards the magazine to load a shell, but not out when the shells try to fly out from under the carrier. Also, the space for the carrier to hold the shells will be limited to exactly 1 shell and no fractions above or under that. To stop the shells from loading themselves onto the carrier and preventing the carrier from being pushed up to load more shells into the magazine, I might have to design some type of catch on the mag. tube that you flip and it blocks off the shells. I will probably try something else, though, because that seems like it might take way too long to load this thing if I use that idea. (I'd have to flip the catch up and down for every shell I load.)
If you have any other problems or solutions, then tell me.
#93369 Ammo Case
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 04:49 PM
in
Homemades
philadel. Elite:
If you used a height-adjustable base like I described, then your idea would be perfect for all different lengths of stefans or stock darts. However, if you are using / making the same size darts that are in Forsaken Angel's pics, then the ammo case would be much easier, simpler, and cheaper. Your idea is probably best if you need to manufacture / store multiple sizes that won't all fit in an ammo holder.
If you used a height-adjustable base like I described, then your idea would be perfect for all different lengths of stefans or stock darts. However, if you are using / making the same size darts that are in Forsaken Angel's pics, then the ammo case would be much easier, simpler, and cheaper. Your idea is probably best if you need to manufacture / store multiple sizes that won't all fit in an ammo holder.
#93371 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 05:12 PM
in
Homemades
I know how you feel, LastManAlive. I am lucky to get on my laptop at all for Monday - Thursday. I'm only a freshman in high school, but I still get assloads of homework from my teachers. I try to slip in a little something every day, though, so new posts here can probably be answered within 24 hours or less. That reminds me, keep posting guys. Your questions are making quite a difference in my design. Right now, I need the most help with my carrier-depression tab setup, since it will be the most problematic part group in my whole design.
#93398 Nerf-emplacement Cannon
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 09:45 PM
in
Homemades
Alright, Dr. Nerf, Flaming Hilt, and I all agree on one thing: submerge the joints in water to find out where the leaks are. Then mark those areas. Dr. Nerf has a good point, though. My idea to smother the joints with primer and PVC cement was based on the assumption that at least part of the joints could be exposed by sliding them apart. Since it looks like you can't do that, listen to Dr. Nerf and "fillet weld" the pipes. Since you may not have a blowtorch available to you, a lighter might do the same thing, but it will take longer if it works at all. Then again, I have never actually gone out and done a fillet weld, so I could be completely wrong with the lighter bit. Nonetheless, you should try it and seal everything up, and then go back and put more water on the joints once they cool off enough for you to fill the tank up again. If you did the welds right, there shouldn't be any more leaks. If there are, then you either didn't weld all the joints, or you tried to pressurize the tank while a joint was still hot and "molten" and blew it out again.
#93399 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 30 October 2006 - 09:54 PM
in
Homemades
Flaming Hilt:
I'll definitely try to get some bigger pics up sometime in the next 2-3 days.
Now, about that depression tab issue. I thought about exactly the same problem you did, that the depression tab would come down too soon and the carrier would go down before the bolt could load the next shell. But then, I remembered that I'm using a rotating bolt. This means that if I shorten the tab just a little bit and place it at a point on the bolt where it will be timed to release only after the shell has been loaded, then the problem should be solved. Then again, this is all just speculation, since I haven't made a model or gotten into all of the mechanics just yet. If I post a way bigger detail view up here, then I might be able to talk to you guys about the really fine details of it all. I only wish that boltsniper could post something here, since he's actually built a rotating bolt before and he could give me some insight as to what I might need to do here.
I'll definitely try to get some bigger pics up sometime in the next 2-3 days.
Now, about that depression tab issue. I thought about exactly the same problem you did, that the depression tab would come down too soon and the carrier would go down before the bolt could load the next shell. But then, I remembered that I'm using a rotating bolt. This means that if I shorten the tab just a little bit and place it at a point on the bolt where it will be timed to release only after the shell has been loaded, then the problem should be solved. Then again, this is all just speculation, since I haven't made a model or gotten into all of the mechanics just yet. If I post a way bigger detail view up here, then I might be able to talk to you guys about the really fine details of it all. I only wish that boltsniper could post something here, since he's actually built a rotating bolt before and he could give me some insight as to what I might need to do here.
#93424 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 31 October 2006 - 03:11 PM
in
Homemades
Ronster, you're a genius. I never really took the time to stop and think exactly how the carrier and carrier dog were connected, but this would make sense. There are a couple of problems, though.
1: If the carrier and carrier dog are connected like that, then how does the entire system move when the carrier is raised? I know the carrier dog moves, but it seems like it would have to move towards the carrier to raise it, based on your picture.
2: Where am I going to find a set of gears that small and how am I going to keep them in place should the gun be dropped?
3: How would I solve the problem of a jam (I.e. a locked gear) without dismantling the entire receiver?
Even though I don't know the answers to these questions, I will probably switch over to the carrier dog system instead of my depression tab. That way I have a proven system and don't have to worry about springs or very strenuous pressures on the sides of the bolt and carrier. I'm not discounting Flaming Hilt's arguments, but I might be able to pull this one off more easily than the depression tab. I guess this means I'll need to draw more pics, but still, thank God for Ronster.
1: If the carrier and carrier dog are connected like that, then how does the entire system move when the carrier is raised? I know the carrier dog moves, but it seems like it would have to move towards the carrier to raise it, based on your picture.
2: Where am I going to find a set of gears that small and how am I going to keep them in place should the gun be dropped?
3: How would I solve the problem of a jam (I.e. a locked gear) without dismantling the entire receiver?
Even though I don't know the answers to these questions, I will probably switch over to the carrier dog system instead of my depression tab. That way I have a proven system and don't have to worry about springs or very strenuous pressures on the sides of the bolt and carrier. I'm not discounting Flaming Hilt's arguments, but I might be able to pull this one off more easily than the depression tab. I guess this means I'll need to draw more pics, but still, thank God for Ronster.
#93433 Nerf-emplacement Cannon
Posted by
on 31 October 2006 - 05:47 PM
in
Homemades
Be careful with that screwdriver, sponge. If you notice that it's taking too much effort to pull the pipes apart, then stop trying before you jerk it too hard and break a joint. I didn't think you had a blowtorch, so I started thinking of some other options after I signed off last night. What if you put some primer around the joint and then super glued some rubber strips around the pipe connections. Chances are this won't work, but it was a last-ditch effort to do something before a major screw-up could occur.
Seeing as you can't fillet weld, I guess you'll probably just have to keep trying to pull the pipes apart.
P.S.: What did you use to glue the pipes together, and how much of it. This could be affecting what choices you have to fix this problem.
Seeing as you can't fillet weld, I guess you'll probably just have to keep trying to pull the pipes apart.
P.S.: What did you use to glue the pipes together, and how much of it. This could be affecting what choices you have to fix this problem.
#93436 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 31 October 2006 - 06:27 PM
in
Homemades
Dammit! I keep overlooking stuff!
I forgot that the carrier dog does indeed move towards the magazine. Noob mistake #654 - overlooking simplistics. As for the axles, I was thinking some thin music wire or a really skinny nail, something that won't bend or crack easily. I intend to clean and lubricate this gun well, so your 3rd suggestion won't be a problem. As for the gears, I think it would be easier to find some at a hobby store or something, since I'm not paying $3 for a single gear. (and I have yet to see a round, gear-like Lego.)
With these problems mostly solved, I need some suggestions on how to prevent the shells in the magazine from slipping out of the gap when the carrier is raised to load a shell. I have a feeling that my spring-loaded tab on the end of the carrier might not work since it will be too big.
I forgot that the carrier dog does indeed move towards the magazine. Noob mistake #654 - overlooking simplistics. As for the axles, I was thinking some thin music wire or a really skinny nail, something that won't bend or crack easily. I intend to clean and lubricate this gun well, so your 3rd suggestion won't be a problem. As for the gears, I think it would be easier to find some at a hobby store or something, since I'm not paying $3 for a single gear. (and I have yet to see a round, gear-like Lego.)
With these problems mostly solved, I need some suggestions on how to prevent the shells in the magazine from slipping out of the gap when the carrier is raised to load a shell. I have a feeling that my spring-loaded tab on the end of the carrier might not work since it will be too big.
#93439 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 31 October 2006 - 07:35 PM
in
Homemades
Sure finding the right gears can be a pain, but if you look in a hobby store where small gears can usually be found in abundance, then you can ensure yourself a good chance at finding two matching ones. once you have the gears, then it's a simple matter to find out how they fit toghether best. Then, attach the carrier dog and carrier to seperate gears and lock them in place with some music wire axles. If I build a removeable receiver like you said, then it will be much easier to put the gears together correctly. It is actually the simplest thing to do right now, since pulleys are hard to find in small enough sizes, and the string that one would use with them is prone to breaking / slipping off the pulley if handled roughly or after prolonged use. I want something good and solid that will last a longer time.
I still don't get that slide - breech thing. Maybe you should draw a sketch like Ronster or give me a web page with an example. I do better with visuals.
I still don't get that slide - breech thing. Maybe you should draw a sketch like Ronster or give me a web page with an example. I do better with visuals.
#93470 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 01 November 2006 - 06:00 PM
in
Homemades
friendly nerfer:
I've never seen Star Wars, so I can safely say it was an idea that I worked on as I went along.
Ronster:
Those Lego gears actually might work. I have to give some thought to finding the right type, but it looks like something in that picture will work. I'm not discounting Meaker VI's suggestion, but I just think it would be easier to have a system that I've seen be proven reliable.
Meaker VI:
I acually need all the help I can get figuring out how to make a removeable receiver, so if you had any ideas, post them.
Flaming Hilt:
You may need to explain your drawing a bit. I see that the pump pushes a peg of some kind back, but that's it.
I've never seen Star Wars, so I can safely say it was an idea that I worked on as I went along.
Ronster:
Those Lego gears actually might work. I have to give some thought to finding the right type, but it looks like something in that picture will work. I'm not discounting Meaker VI's suggestion, but I just think it would be easier to have a system that I've seen be proven reliable.
Meaker VI:
I acually need all the help I can get figuring out how to make a removeable receiver, so if you had any ideas, post them.
Flaming Hilt:
You may need to explain your drawing a bit. I see that the pump pushes a peg of some kind back, but that's it.
#93548 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 02 November 2006 - 06:44 PM
in
Homemades
Flaming Hilt:
Maybe this would be easier if you drew a diagram that shows the pump, peg, etc. in relation to the parts it affects and the parts around it. (Like I did for the carrier.) I understand that the pump pushes the breech door shut, but where is this all in relation to the surrounding parts?
Ronster:
How the hell am I going to repay you for your help and opinions on this topic? First, you explain the carrier system, and now you're building a model? Where do you get this kind of free time?
Maybe this would be easier if you drew a diagram that shows the pump, peg, etc. in relation to the parts it affects and the parts around it. (Like I did for the carrier.) I understand that the pump pushes the breech door shut, but where is this all in relation to the surrounding parts?
Ronster:
How the hell am I going to repay you for your help and opinions on this topic? First, you explain the carrier system, and now you're building a model? Where do you get this kind of free time?
#93599 Nerf Shotgun
Posted by
on 03 November 2006 - 05:36 PM
in
Homemades
I think I see what you're talking about, Flaming Hilt. This may not be exactly what you saw, but there is a downward bulge on the slide, which is colored light blue. I think that this could be the answer, since it is enough to just block the top of the shell from exiting the magazine when the pump is in its forward position.
Ronster:
Of course I'll give you credit. Everyone who helps me here will be given due credit. I don't believe in taking help without an honest announcement about it, so if there's a favor I might be able to do in return (I.e., some high-quality stefans once this gun is done), just name it.
Ronster:
Of course I'll give you credit. Everyone who helps me here will be given due credit. I don't believe in taking help without an honest announcement about it, so if there's a favor I might be able to do in return (I.e., some high-quality stefans once this gun is done), just name it.
