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There have been 50 items by Aj (Search limited from 03-September 94)
As far as giving out advice or tactics a little more information on what kind of war you're fighting would go a long way such as:
Do you all play with stock guns?
Are there rules against modded guns?
Are you nerfing outdoors or indoors?
What size are your wars (people per team)?
As stated before, you need to make sure you use the Vulcan in situations where its strengths are maximized and its weaknesses are minimized. Don't bring a knife to a gunfight, bring a gun to a knife fight.
1-2 Sidearms are good. The Recon you have in pistol mode with some extra clips and a NF/DS with a nice simple barrel mod and banding will give you a nice balance of range and ROF for sidearms.
Here are a couple of generic tactics that work in both indoors and outdoors, they all involve using cover to gain an advantage; as a Vulcan is about as useful as a milkshake in an open field battle. You'll have a welt on your neck from a x-bow before you can get within twice your range.
In both cases I have assumed that you are the one with the Vulcan, however if you're co-ordinating the squad you can ask your Vulcan (or RF20, both work for suppression) wielder to fill these roles.
The first one is just basically..... "How to whore a choke point"..... Don't get too greedy, don't camp. Switch sides often and after a few kills find a new choke point - unless you have backup to protect your flanks. Remember - a dart in the head makes people learn quickly.
Keep moving as the arrows suggest, both within your fire zones and side to side; otherwise people will know where to aim.
Though I have only put one enemy in the diagram the idea is to do it to a group, where the ROF and the large ammo supply of the Vulcan really shine. Otherwise its just a plain ambush really and a skilled player could do it with a scout..
The next is an offensive or defensive tactic. Basically just a fire suppression tactic, I'm sure that everybody has heard of these. If your attacking its a good way to overwhelm dug in enemies. Pin them then mop them up. Having your squad advance from either side simultaneously (called a 'pincer' movement) works great.
f you're defending its much quicker to have your squad counter attack than to get in a long drawn out firefight. By ending it quickly it make sure the enemy doesn't get a chance to flank you. Its up to you to assess the situation; don't send your squad out if the enemy isn't truly pinned or they'll probably take heavy losses.
I hope thats at least a little helpful and didn't bore the veterans to death, more specific tactics could be suggested if you provide more info.
-Aj-, your first picture is like a frikkin' weird smiley face.
I did realize this.. From hence forth this tactic shall be know as "The evil clown". It would sound great in a planning situation.. "You guys.. evil clown that choke point!'.. After all we play with plastic guns, this sport needs to have some humor
My beef with Chubbs is that it is a cool idea done poorly. A gun that looks like an alligator is a pretty unique and rad idea, I just thing you rushed it, the sculpting isn't great, neither is the paint. Also the titan integration could of been done a lot better and cleaner, as splitlip has mentioned. And now if someone where to go and make a properly sculpted alligator vulcan they'd be 'copying chubbs', so the idea is basically dead. Yes sculpting isn't the easiest thing, but with patience even beginners can get awesome results.
+1 for originality
+1 for Happy Gilmore reference
-1 for uglyness
-1 for rushing it
-1 for hyping it and spamming it everywhere
Total Chubbs score
The other day I scored 3 FF's on sale at Kmart for $25 each, I was stoked. I know they arn't the best blaster but we nerf indoors and they're good noob guns as you can't jam them. After AR removal and the straw mod they get reasonable ranges.
Places like David Jones and Myer also stock limited nerf; usually NF's, DTG, Iron Man FF, mavs and reactors.
They are usually overpriced ($20.00 for a mav or reactor, $70 for DTG) but becaue of this they usually have blasters in stock and they do price match with other stores.
I'd be interested in magstrikes if anyone can find them, cant seem to get my hands on them in S.A
Also today I saw a lone recon in TRU with a bonus LS scope with it.. hadn't seen that before
Where in Adelaide are you T.I.G?
on a side note I got my LS yesterday. It's ok-ish stock, cant wait to mod the crap out of it though
Buzzsaws: $ 19.99
And if any Adelaide guys read this, do get down to our little warm up war this weekend, summer is coming around in Aus and there is no better time to nerf!
The plan is to meet at my house (which is within walking distance from the playing field) first, probably do some lunch and then go nerf the afternoon away. We' have stefans for this event which work great in Air guns and anything barrel loading, however for the recon / clip gun users out there they are a little tight. I'm working on some CDTD's for this, however it's advised to bring a backup gun if you can. We (Tidge and I) will have some spares floating around too.
If your guns are in need of quick mods (pegs/ar) so they can shoot stefans PM either me or Tidge, we might be able to do this earlier in the morning.. time permitting
in the interest of not having the cops called make sure you're flashing those orange barrels, and don't dress full camo or anything stupid like that
hope to be shooting you soon
Vulcans are available from TRU's and yes they are $80
Kmarts and Targets are your best bet for FF's, keep in mind they will be Iron Man variants...
The Shotguns u mentioned is a buzzbee one I believe, I'd stay away from it personally
Having said that... this topic is a little pointless... probably not really thread worthy...
Recently you've posted 2 threads on the N-Strike game guns.. all of which 'don't exist' at the moment, so it's all just hype, and this community (well the age > 13 part) gets fed up with hype and speculation pretty quickly..
Who cares really? lets get on with it...
I took some footage of the gun, assembly etc and will be making a few vids, the first, a general review, is up now
EDIT: YOUTUBE VID UP...
Overall it's a decent gun, as we've all agreed on it is virtually a Recon mounted sideways. The grips and the pump action feel very sturdy, as does the stock (surprisingly), because of the 'slam fire' mode the trigger pull is quite long but, eh so what? is anybody with this gun going to be looking for, or be able to utilise, that kind of precision?
The stock has 4 settings
1 - midget
2- 1/2 midget
3- 1/4 midget
4 - Semi-normal size person
but I guess we should all remember the actual target age of these guns (pretty sure its not 6' 3" 20y/o ,males... )
The gun is a toy.. but the clip is it and a bit. Seriously.. hats off to Hasbro, it has worked flawlessly for me and it feels nice and solid. By they time you're halfway through the clip you feel as though it should be empty, simply because you're not used to this many darts in a longshot!
As Ice has put up videos and pics already I realise I'm not breaking any ground here, but I think mine might be a bit nicer quality. I plan to put up a vid with opening/assembly footage and a short vid on the clip.. rather than roll it all into one horrendously long video.
oh also.. I HAVE ONE FOR SALE... yup you heard right, I'll post a link to the ebay auction in a trading thread, if someone is willing to pay a ridiculous amount for it (like ICE did) then I guess you can PM me but I wont hold my breath and it'll be on EBAY in 2 or so days probably (with a reasonable starting bid). I WILL POST WORLDWIDE.
0k enough whoring PHOTO TIME (Images are 1024 x 786 (17" Monitor standard) if this is to big let me know)
First a few of the box
Don't get excited leftys it's a mirrored image from the front of the box
Bust it open and you're greeted with this sight
Given that there are already a lot of photos floating around I'll just post a few ones I deem at least 'vaguely interesting'
A close up of the digi cam... it's so effective you almost can't see it
The much anticipated dead space in the stock, which people are already planning spring additions for...
A layout showing all the compatible accessories I had.. for the ultra 'Tacticool' look.....
And finally a few semi-'arty' shots... not sure if they're useful but you know... they look nice....
OK so thats me done... hope you enjoy. I'll edit in the link to the youtube video when it finally finishes loading, and for the love of god NO-ONE QUOTE THIS ENTIRE POST, it would just be cruel....
How sturdy is the stock lock, can you whack it in with a powerful enough blow?
Seems pretty sturdy, I cant force it in when it's locked, and it hasn't magically 'unlocked' on me yet like the longshot stock...
If you really hit it hard you might but that kind of blow is not something you'd intentionally give out to a blaster..
I'm struggling to understand how this is any different from a thread by Ice that was made like a month ago. I would suggest you enlighten me if you want it to continue.
I believe the following quote somewhat answers this..
Very nice video and pictures.
I can tell you put forth a lot of effort and thought into the making of those. It's much appreciated.
My pictures are in focus, clear concise shots.. I dont mean to bash but ICE cant seam to hold a camera still to save his life, also my video is edited, clear. concise and relevant.. not a rambling 7 minute Effeminate replete with millions of dry fires, nerdgasms and repeated mentions of "SO MUCH ENERGY"
Shit Talio I even named the thread so it wouldn't piss you off, I know you've been mighty active with the magical padlock and banhammer of recent, but I think this thread has got to be of higher quality than the "semi-auto" or "best gun" shit you usually punish for...
Clear internals of clip are on the way, Its 9am here I have a big day of uni ahead they'll be up tonight (if this is still around)
Sorry if this is a stupid question:
Do think it would be possible to mod the magazine so it is center with the gun (longshot)?
not easily. I mean if it was something you wanted to do more than anything in the world then I'm sure you would find a way... but basically no..it would lack sturdyness and the clip design is quite intricate.
Clip internals up tonight, sorry for the delay I ended up not getting to bed sunday night and was up for 34 hrs straight.. so I needed sleep last night to say the least
I'm sure that caulk-less seal loses usefulness in the arid climate of Australia. FBR is probably only for homes with mild summers and milder winters, but Australia's desert climate gives cold nights and hot days.
I sincerely hope you're joking in which case, lol..
If not... oh dear lord.....
Australia is not a desert. Nor are we starved for FBR, we just have a much lower number of nerfers and the majority are idiots who can't find said FBR (or any other modding materials for that matter.. they're all sold here you just need to find them..)
We are starved a little in the blaster category, but only really in the older things like the Air Tech lines and rapid fires..
The point of this foam, is not because we cant get FBR, it's to see if we can make something better than it. The guy doing this order is not ordering coloured FBR, it's from a completely different company that specialises in foam balls and toys. By doing this he hopes to have greater consistency within batches and between batches. I was pretty skeptical of the idea at first, now I'm just curious if he can pull it of.
Neat find on the blaster, although cheaper made guns which use back pressure valves usually will suffer reliability issues, I mean heck you've got to be really lucky to get a working hornet and that's nerf made..
I am asking if the spring that keeps the nozzle thing in front of the plunger tube flush with the turret necessary.
If it is necessary, how can i replace it?
Yes that spring is necessary, as it keeps the seal against the turret. as for replacing it.. simply find something of equal size and power, easier said than done
If you want to seriously improve it wire up a couple more LEDs in parallel with the main one. Also insulated wire is usually a better thing to dirrect current with, rather than tin foil.
Anyways, I don't see how this is 'easier'. Wiring up LED's is one of thje simplest circuits you can create. What exactly are you trying to achieve with modification of this circuit?
You need to post a picture of both sides of the main PCB, as the side you posted has no traces on it. However as stated previosusly it's likely the blue things are the switches.
The light and sound show is controlled by the 'blob' style IC (the black blob on the LED board). Given that there are only 2 wires leading to that PCB from the 'power' PCB, it's pretty easy to deduce where the power comes from, and thus you could hook up a new power source with a rocker or push button switch very easily (as i assume you wish to trigger the lights and sounds some other way apart from spinning the gun).
If you can't work out how to do such a thing I suggest putting any dreams of electronic mods on hold, again not trying to be rude.
The work you guys have been doing recently in here is f**kin boss. I have been incredibly impressed with the quality of blasters being produced by some of the contributors around here.
I live in Australia, and as such I don't have access to imperial size PVC, imperial size rubber washers and 1" PETG, so I have a few questions I'd like answered so that I may search for alternatives locally.
1st, everyone mentions 1" PETG coming from petco, I assume from my searching that it is a part for an aquarium gravel filter, however I'm not sure. Does anyone have the 'pet store' name for this product so that I can search for it more efficiently? is it a replacement part? does it come from a particular company or is it 'petco' brand?
I have seen some gravel filters with tubes that look about right online, however I'm reluctant to spend $25-30 to find out, and have yet to find the tube on its own. Any help information is appreciated.
Secondly, when finding rubber washers for the creation of a plunger head what relative size is appropriate?
Every thread i see says use xxx pipe with xxx washer, however I cannot tell how the washer fits in. Should i be looking for a washer that fits perfectly inside the tube? or should it be larger so that it bends into a cup like shape? if so how much larger? should the washer be closer to the OD or ID of the pipe?
I have done a lot of modding work, made breeches, machined a lot of plastics etc etc so I hope these questions are more justified than the average noob ones - I'm looking for a push in the right direction rather than the information handed to me on a platter
Wiring is essentially invisible on this side
But there is some visible on this side.. was basically impossible to have none visible near the battery due to space restrictions..
Going to attempt this again, trying for less hotspots/more even coverage
Also check it out on the YouPoops
As far as people saying this is pointless, I hate the side mounted drum on the radier, to me this shell is more appealing ergonomically.
Also I find the 35 round mag very very bulky, so the 18rnd one is cool, but to be honest I prefer the other 18 round clip they have coming out (super clips style)
Also internally, the raider had a much much more developed boltsled, seemed much more sturdier, and in order to implement slamfire it is likely that they will have to beef up the recon's boltsled (as they have with every other design after) this means a stronger recon like base for bos, which I don't see as a bad thing.
No, I do realise it's much more complex than that and that maintaining a good relationship with hasbro along with not getting our asses sued is pretty high on the priority list, hence if this breaks any rules please let me know, I'm sorry.
but yes I have 5 CS-18 clips.. I didn't buy them from the guy on US ebay who has a few for sale
there are pics and shit in this thread
I'm really hoping to get a video done soon, but with my internet screwed I wont be able to upload it... but yes I believe I'm one of the 1st english speaking IRC member to have a hands on with these, though I think Kevinericon might have some too...
Anyways check out the thread
Did you get those from here?
If you did, how did you manage to navigate your way through the website and pay for them? I'd love to get some RF-20s from there...
I was made aware of their availability through them appearing on TB, however I got them through other channels, a business I work for has mandarin speaking staff and they have relatives still in the mainland..
Unless they were stolen from the factory or something like that, I don't think Hasbro is going to mind. As long as they're really being produced and shipped, your comments will reflect a genuine product. Just maybe via a "supply chain" that's not fully authorized. Were they packaged? I don't see any pics including packaging.
I really have no idea how legally they were obtained hence why I'm a little :/ about posting it on the net. They did not come in any official packaging.
Btw, i guess you may have thought of it by now... you have a very rare opportunity to be the first to mod 2 of those CS-18 clips together for a sort of "super-duper" 36-dart clip!
We joined 2 with a flip clip.... it was hilarious... I'll be uploading that photo to the thread on Oznerf later
Try using the bipod on the Longshot now!
I rather just use a 12 round super clip and not have to get my huge ass clip stuck on everything I walk by. Have you found a way to hold more on you then just in the blaster?
mmm... because that bipod was just soooooo useful before hand....
If you're getting your clip stuck on things then I think you're holding your blaster wrong, and yeah I an easily able to store more on my person..
I have a few different pouches which can hold between 1-4 of these 18 rnd clips, I can carry two on my person very easily along with one in the blaster. that is the equivalent of 9 6 shot clips..... it is much more convenient to me to carry 3 clips as opposed to 9
Finally.. Drums jam. These don't.
So far I've bought 20 of these, and have sold a bunch to guys in Aus, and I have only received 2 "legit" nerf branded ones with the screw on the side and the other 18 have been unbranded ones with no screw, which work identically to the nerf brand ones
Here's some pics
play 'spot the wiring'
I was particularly proud that I got an LED in each quarter of the 'half dome' of the maverick (around the clip lock etc) whilst keeping it looking so clean, also all LEDs are attached to the same side as the internals, so the gun can be completely opened with ease, which is necessary as the battery will run out at some point.
And here's some lit up shots, It looks a little pink and the lights look a little yellow due to oversaturation, but IRL it's a solid rich red.
Finally here's my 'old blue' which sold on ebay for like $110 AUD to some guy in the states
(Aus_AJ on nerf IRC)
I've been around here for a whole, however didn't really want to post without anything decent to contribute. I'd like to thank the while community for all the great content, almost everything I've learned about nerf has been through a combination of this site, some research and good old fashioned trial and error.
Special props go to popatachi who did something similar earlier, though I did not consult his mod for this it certainly paved the way.
Raiders suck balls. Period.
I wanted to make one that didn't. Actually I wanted a clip fed gun with 4B kind of power, and the raider shell turned out to be way too perfect. It is a comfortable and cool looking shell, especially with the fron handle removed. Given that they both have the same breech this could be adapted to a recon etc
AFTER I'd done this mod a friend went "oh coop made a clipped big blast", which you can get the same functionality out of, however I like this shell so so so much more than the 4b, the pump faces fowards and is more efficient and it actually holds clips and drums well and uses the stock clip lock for additional stability.
Things I achieved
- consistent, reliable feeding from n strike clips
- greater than 100 ft range
- uses stock clip receiver
- No glue holding anything structural - all hardware
- Comfort and accuracy
So here we go. I sometimes forgot to take photos until after I had completed a stage so the pictures are not completely step by step, I apologize.
Step 1 - Open up your raider and your mega missile. Having a 2nd gen mega missle is key as the tank is not welded to the pump, but rather connected with tube.
Disconnect the tube but keep the white lock nut, and gut the raider internals save the jam door. Keep the trigger and the brackets that hold in the boltsled. Anything else is useless.
place the tank in the raider, so the right angle connector extending from the tank is sitting just in front of a piece of shell that sticks up near the trigger.
Mark where the large centre band of the MM tank is on the 2 internal walls of the raider shell and cut a channel so the tank can sit within the walls. This is all you need to do to fit the tank.. freaky right? it's like too easy...
As you can see in the pics I have cut my mega missle barrel (the orange bit) off about 3-4mm above the black part of the tank. do this now if you haven't already.
Cut a 20mm conduit couple at the 3/4 mark. it should now fit onto the front of the tank with some 'persuasion'
Now I put a piece of 20mm UPVC in the coupler and put the tank inside and closed the shell. Using a fine tipped sharpie I marked where the clip would go when placed in the stock clip receiver.
Then I took it all apart, clipped on a nstrike clip within the lines I had drawn and traced around the top of the clip.
Cut it all out and it will look like this
Now to make a slide breech work correctly with clips there must be a 'nub' that the dart gets pushed back against to force it into the breech. Making this 'nub' in the limited space was challenging and this is what I came up with. most importantly it has to get fixed to the tank but not interfere with the x shaped guide which ensures the valve makes it back to correct postion after each firing. There is very little room to play with behind the breech before the tank, so it cannot be attached to the walls of the barrel or you will sacrifice some of the precious little sealing surface.
So what I came up with.. cut (roughly) 2cm of 1/2" brass and 17/32 brass. glue the 1/2 inside the 17/32 halfway down. Sand/lathe a piece of 12mm OD ALU tube until it fits inside the 17/32. glue it all together and then inside the orange stub sticking out the tank, being careful with your glue so you dont glue the tank shut. pics will help this make sense
I used a 19/32 and 9/16th sliding breech - the part cut to match the conduit is the 19/32 while a whole piece of 9/16th slides back and forth.
Picture limit reached. do not post.
Here's a shot of the breech with a streamline in it - accommodating streamline size darts is necessary if you want to use drums unless you are one of the like.. 3? 4? people who have made reliable stefan modded drums.
now on to the pump. Magstrike pumps seem like they were made to fit in the shell... diddle it accordingly so everything will fit.
Choose how you are going to secure your pump. if you want to use glue that is fine, I chose to use hardware - I used a 20mm conduit pipe clip, affixed by a bolt to a smal piece of polycarb.
This polycarb has a 4mm tapped hole in it allowing it to be attached to the raider shell with a bolt.I also placed a 15mm (1/2") PVC coupler on the front of the pump and attached this with a screw to the shell.. again pics will help it make sense.
I chose to replace my pump handle with a PVC T and end cap combo, with about 10mm of PVC sticking out the T, so it 'locks' into the coupler on the front of the pump, preventing it from extending while I run around with it slung on my back.
The T also allows me to add a foregrip
Join the pump up to the tank - I used 4mm PVC tubing and 4mm barbed connectors, you yanks will have the proper 1/8" connectors.
Now the part that took the longest to figure out - the trigger. I wanted lever action, as I had seen how much more effective they are in the new model 4B's. In the end I came up with this..
it's 3mm Alu, which you can buy in 3x20x1000mm strips in Aus. I cut it using a hacksaw and a metal cutting wheel on a dremel.
The orange hinge pieces are made out of the pieces which hold the boltsled in, simply cut, sand and attach, it shouldn't be too hard to tell what to do from the pics.
The bar which the trigger pivots on goes into a pre-existing screw port in the shell, which one of the internal pieces screwed into. drill a hole in the other side of the shell to accomodate the bar.
Here's some pictures of the trigger.
Picture limit reached. please do not post.
Here's a couple photos on how I dremeled the shell to get the trigger to work
Now, close your shell up, test it, make any adjustments as necessary. I had to open and dremel the shell a couple times to get unrestricted trigger pull and return.
You should have something kinda like this
EDIT: Firing Video is here
Ranges - 100-120 feet with 4 pumps
Rev 2 is under construction, aiming to be simpler and with easier to get parts for some things (like a small widely available bike pump for the pump) along with just generally being cleaner.
So yeah, hope some people got something out of this and that its worthy content for these parts.
20mm is the most common, with 16mm being harder to find in Aus, it has the same dimensions as your 1/2" CPVC
16mm UPVC nests airtight inside 20mm grey, making for excellent slide breeches, whilst thick wall PETG nests airtight in orange 20mm conduit, also making it very easy to make petg slide breeches in Australia
The range is about 100-120 feet, which is slightly more than a BBB usually achieves I think.
I'm pretty sure a 3K tank has more volume, but the range is negligible at about a 10 foot difference maximum.
Fantastic gun man, this is probably my favorite conversion of any gun that I've seen. I'm an airgun person, and the fact that you combined this into one of Nerf's most comfortable shells ever, while keeping the N-strike clip system in such a clean manner is great. I love the way you set up the trigger as well, it seems much more reliable than the average "bend the wire, connect and glue it to a popsicle stick" kind of thing. Major props.
I know you're Australian, so I'm guessing UPVC = Sch. 40 PVC here in the states? It's cool that it comes in orange though.... Us Americans need to switch solely to the metric system. Measurements in MM would be so much easier.
Nope, the MM tank is noticeably larger than a 3k tank, I have both.
UPVC = electrical conduit, not SCH40, which is basically just the 'pvc' most people refer to.
Thanks everyone for the props, rev 2 will be up soonish
I used to play a lot of warhammer when I was younger and particularly enjoyed painted, even winning a few local competitions for my miniatures.
So my suggestion is to look for tutorials on how to use citadel paints - gameworkshop.com is probably a good place to start.
In particular tutorials on painting tanks, especially tau or space marine tanks would be of use, as thes tanks feature large flat surfaces and panelling very similar to nerf guns.
The maverick you posted uses a lot of drybrushing, highlighting and shading. Some of the shading appears to have been done using inks, and given the smoothness I'd suspect some glazes were used on the red to smooth it out. All of these terms (using inks, drybrushing, glazing etc) are things you should search for and you'll find detailed tutorials in abundance on both GW and 3rd party hobby sites all over the web.
Also of note is that this maverick used a gloss varnish to give that deep, rich, shiny finish, which has been left off on the metallic parts to create contrasts. There should be plenty of tutorials about for applying this kind of finish also, and both matte and gloss varnish can be bought in spray and brush on form.
Hope this helps, remember take your time, have patience and look at your painting objectively, it's on of the hardest things to do, everyone in warhammer thinks their painting is super good when this is true for only about 5% of the hobbyists.. every one develops their 'own eyes' for their paintjobs, which just seem not to notice that big fleck of green you accidentally got on the black or whatever.. but try and avoid it.. get other people to point out flaws and dont be angry when they do, they're helping you become a better painter.