try spinning the motor it might be stuck... or burnt out another thing would be make sure all the locks are actuated...

Also kill leader... dont you need a custom Rapidstrike or stryfe/rayven for that these days...

I have recently bought IMR Batteries and have only put about 30 rounds through my Stryfe before the Thermistor shut down my blaster. I will rewire my Stryfe over the weekend, but I was wondering: Is it safe to run a Stryfe on four IMRs for long term usage? I'm using the stock motors. Thanks!

I would not there is a rather steep curve upward on noise from these motors. I would run on 2 or 3 but personally i run 2 and keep 2 charged for when the first 2 are exhausted.

If you need a battery blank i made my own using a sheet of paper and a solid core wire down the center with a coil on either end. I simply rolled a piece of paper around a wire until it was as thick as a AA then put glue on either end then stripped the wire ends and coiled them to form terminals... i have 2 one that is 2 AA end to end long one that is a single AA long removes and sits just as a battery would.

Been meaning to find the time to post my tray

https://www.dropbox....032247.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox....032304.jpg?dl=0

I am going to eventually open my RS and when i do I may add another method of transferring power from tray to gun im thinking of mounting a xt60 connector to the occupied side of the gun so i could open it without cutting the negative terminal again... If i ever do make this modification ill make my own thread on how i did it.

Found some of these 14500 size batteries I hadn't seen before:
http://pages.ebay.co...5647735&alt=web

They look like a great deal, but before buying some I thought I'd ask here if anyone has had experience with them. How do they compare to LiIon batteries like IMRs or Ultrafires? I would be running these in a resistor/lock free stryfe circuit with the stock motors. I've been using ultrafires in all my stryfe mods before now, and they've worked just fine for me. These LiFePo batteries, however, look to be cheaper and they come from the US. Thanks for the help!

~Rave

not so fast

those from what i can find are likely only rated to 2C so 1.4 AMP if the 700 mAh is correct. Lifepo4 is a more durable chemistry and frequently found to be able to do up to 30C. however i will now throw back these are cheap Chinese cells i know everything i made there these days but the 700mAh is definitely exagerated it is likely closer to 450-550mAh in which case it is only good for 1.1 Amp discharge and being they are meant for solar lights i would think this is most likely the case. If these were unprotected cells and they could do 30C that is still only ~15 Amps if it is indeed 500 mAh if it actually is 700 and a bare unprotected cell and can do 30C your looking at 21 Amps.

That is also assuming these are indeed lifepo4 cells there is a story about some knock off tenergy lifepo4 exploding inside a flashlight while the owner was holding it in his mouth working on his truck. The knock offs were never found so it could never be determined definitively but it was believed they were actually li-ion. Not much was left of the flashlight body either. What set those off was believed to be thermal shock.


So i guess what im trying to tell you is don't take your life in the hands of cheap batteries... these also require a compatible charger li-ion chargers are not all compatible... and just because the seller is in the US does not mean they are not made overseas (they say made in CHINA on the side)


Efest IMR v2 Li-Mn 3.7-4.2v 9.7 Amp discharge rate safer chemistry limited medium capacity more expensive than li-ion
Ultrafire Li-Ion 3.7v-4.2v 2-3A discharge unsafe delicate chemistry Highest capacity cheapest
Lifepo4 3.3v 1a-21A typical discharge safest chemistry and most expensive lowest capacity

Imr is Lithium manganese chemistry abbreviated Li-Mn
Ultrafires are li-ion which are lithium cobalt
Lifepo4 are lithium iron phosphate

my brother had put away his rapid strike for a couple of weeks, and now the clip lock button is stuck in the release position making it impossible to keep a clip in it. if anyone has had this problem or knows how I may be able to fix it that would be a lot of help.

try actuating it a few times or take it apart.

So for the later part of the past few months I have been working on a Stryfe Falcon 130 build. I want to add some sort of braking to the motors so when I let go of the rev trigger the motors stop almost immediately. I have seen videos of finished projects of this type but no diagrams on how the circuit is set up. I know I need to run a wire from the motors to the switch but am un sure if it's off of the positive or negative wire and to what terminal on the switch (I think it's to the Normally closed terminal (also what terminal is that, my wiring loom is coming to me prebuilt from http://www.blasterte...3_13607495.aspx)). If someone could help me out in pointing me in a direction as to a diagram or better yet pictures, I'd be more than appreciated. If it helps any I plan on running this blaster off of a 3S Lipo (not sure if it makes any difference)

not really for motor braking it is connecting the positive and negative side of the motors the diode is the actual thing you want though as it serves the same purpose and is actually something your supposed to do with dc motors or inductors...


You should put a diode across the terminals of the motor this will stop them from generating power and feeding it back into the circuit as they spin down. Add the diode pointing towards the positive on both motors this is the safest method and costs very little i think 2 diodes can be had for like 10 cents...

Or you can take the jam door switch and put it as the new rev switch the second and 3rd pin 2 pins will be the on off for the rev circuit and the 1st pin connected to the negative on the battery tray is the brake...

http://www.mouser.co...fX4nEEHllp3mZcc .18 cents each you need 2

epoxy putty is very messy to use i recommend using gloves with both. It is basically play-doh mixed with the liquid epoxy it does not adhere as good as the liquid both dry hard and brittle.
The liquid leaves a thinner coat the putty is used to fill gaps both can be sanded to get the finish you want. And since you can make a big block of the putty it works well for structural joints. Both can flake or break off if you don't prep the joint right.


I once used a tube of the liquid to fix the hinges on a laptop the next time i tried the putty the liquid seemed to do a better job but i had issues keeping it where i wanted it that is why i tried the putty the next time neither as far as i know have failed yet and that was several years now... The putty ended up taking longer to hold and i dont think it was ever as secure as the liquid the liquid ended up with the laptop working like new.

1. If I run a 2s 25c LiPo, will it be weaker than Ultrafires or not? (High Discharge but low voltage)
A. It will be equal to running 2 ultrafires
2. If I run a 3s 20c LiPo, is it necessary to change my rev switch into a high current micro switch?
A. Maybe the original switches are rated much lower they will eventually burn out and don't pass as much current but stock motors on 3s you can skip the switch upgrade for now you should think hard about doing it eventually.
3. If I run a 500mAh pack and I'm playing for 5 hours, do I need to bring 2 packs? (don't want to cut shell)
A. depends on motors and play style how heavy handed you are on the rev switch. From what i have found 800-1000 is the biggest that fits in a stryfe with a little bit of modding as in removing dividers and support ribs on the battery door
4. Can anybody give me a link for tutorials on how to charge LiPos using a smart charger? (maybe an IMAX B6 Balance Charger?)
A. Google youtube then "how to use imax b6. first result
5. My LiPo has a JST discharge plug and a JST-XH balance plug, if I want to plug both into my Stryfe or my balance charger, what terminals should I use for the Stryfe and the charger? (Male/Female)
A. The stryfe wont have anything you will need to install something to plug into the balance port and the discharge the jst is what you will plug into the stryfe you will need something like this
6.Do stock motors spin fast on a 2s LiPo? (Related to Question 1)
A. I find they do fine on 2 IMR which would be like a 2s 700mAH 10c
7. How do I solder a Female JST plug to my wire to plug LiPos in? (if you have a link, it's fine)
http://www.amazon.co... plug connector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqV2xU1fee8
it should be pretty self explanatory you run the two wires into the guts of the stryfe and where the 2 wires connect to the battery tray you connect the jst

google and search will both give you numerous how to on modding the stryfe most commonly a rewire mod first result on google search https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4AR9fvwlYw ONLY thing i have to say about the video is those "resistors" are not resistors they are Transistors they drop voltage and increase amperage but are not needed.

odd how all of your questions are not yes or no...

another useful bit of knowledge is here is a listing of max acceptable amperage for a given wire size we would be looking at both chassis is more short bursts and what we would use primarily but for longer use the transmission is important too as at a given amperage the wire will heat up and eventually melt

AWG max Amp chassis  max Amp power transmission
10	55	      15
11	47	      12	
12	41	       9.3	
13	35	       7.4	
14	32	       5.9	
15	28	       4.7	
16	22	       3.7	
17	19	       2.9	
18	16	       2.3	
19	14	       1.8	
20	11	       1.5

This motor:
http://www.tamiyausa...h-3-motor-15477

3-4 ultrafires is too much voltage and not enough current and will shorten the life of the motor. Run it on 1s IMR / Lipo, or a 3 or 4s NMH pack.

Also, unless someone posts chronograph numbers after coating the flywheels, I wouldn't mess with it at all. Anything you put on them will increase their weight which will increase the time it takes to spin up the motors. It will also decrease battery life from the increased load and will increase the amount of heat being generated in the motor which will shorten the life of the motor.

the op could run 3 in parallel to increase the amperage and capacity that could be pulled from the cells.

The only thing i can think of is your going to have to trial and error with a universal tv remote there will be 2 codes one to move the launch angle one to launch a disc. It is somewhat complicated but i would try a tv remote see if any buttons or combo of buttons triggers anything.

Other options involve much more complicated methods involving making a new control board with an arduino. It would not be overly complicated to control a 3 position servo a variable speed motor and the launch solenoid. It is beyond my skill but it would be possible.

A easier method might be to buy a second one with a remote they are 65-130 on ebay or find someone with the remote willing to let you record the pulses from it you could then program a select few remotes perhaps even a tv be gone diy type unit you would just need to use the 2 codes from the actual remote instead of the on/off db they flash on the diy chips.


http://www.instructa...e-with-Arduino/

Ebay is a bad source a lot of fake batteries

Stock motors run fine on IMR cells but these are expensive
Nitecore i2 charger
Nitecore d2 charger with car adaptor and battery storage box
Nitecore i4 4 slot charger
d4 4 slot (i have this)

these should fit in a rapidstrike tray in place of the c-cells with the center divider gone
18650 30A discharge
10A imr efest 18650

14500 10A efest


for lipo hobby king has excellent prices and sells through amazon...
charger

To cut to the meat of what you need to do to fix it.

1. Flywheels

Remove the electrical tape therfore is a number of things you can use:
Flex seal
Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating
plasti dip<- most people use this it is cheap but eventually wears off.

I also wonder if just lightly sanding them with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to get the smooth sheen off the flywheels would be enough.

2. Batteries

IF you absolutely need to use AA shaped sized batteries that you can get in a place like wal-mart your stuck using NiMh or lithium primaries.
With rm2 you cant go much above stock 6 volts with proper current or you will fry them unless you c-mod them.

Best:Highest discharge Reasonably safe. Most expensive you will be looking at 10-40$ for the battery and 20-300$ for a charger.
4.2v rc lipo pack look for tenergy or a well made pack
w/brush replacement
7.2-11.1v rc race pack tenergy is a good brand you need a balance charger

Acceptable: less expensive than rc pack more expensive than nimh 10-15 for a pair of imr and 15-20 for a nitecore d4 charger. Use 1 or 2 in parallel unless you c-mod the rm2 using 2 in series is the most you should try 2 in series is 8.4v fresh off the charger 7.4v is what they will drop to then when dead 6.2v If you continue to run them down you will damage the cells and end up with batteries that wont take a charge.
14500 size lithium batteries li-Mn or Li-Fe-po4 High current they are available up to 20A discharge rates these chemistry are much much safer than Li-ion Li-Fe being the safest of the 2...
14500 Efest IMR Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 AW imr Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 Tenergy Li-Fe-Po4 3.3v

Bad: the cheapest about 10$ gets you 4 batteries and a charger. Nimh deliver about 1-2A in bursts but don't have the capacity to sustain much more than that. Lithium primaries can do 3 A continuous or 5A burst.
AA NiMH batteries 1.2v batteries
Lithium primary energizer or photo cells AA

worst:4-6 dollars a pop for 4 low current discharge
AA duracell rayovac energizer doesn't matter what they add to the end of it they all suck 500mA draw is the best they can muster.

UNSAFE:
*****Fire Li-ion unprotected cells (your asking for a fire or a face full of lithium hydroxide)
goes by many names: Trustfire and ultrafire are most common these are the typical cell most modders used at first they are good for about 2-5A draw and they are the most volatile they have been known to propel flashlights around the room like a rocket propelled on highly toxic gas that even a little bit can damage your lungs permanently.

Fix those 2 issues you should see about 110 FPS and around 70-90ft ranges. Some sort of voltage monitor would be advised to add to the setup with anything rechargeable draining them past a point will damage them.

like he said ^ MANDATE eye ware at my last event i did not bring my eye wear and got hit in my eye with a stock retaliator it hurt like hell even though it was stock.

I would place certified stock or under 110 fps with stock darts only as my rules 80-110 fps will still shoot over 100ft

pretty gnarled up there plans to paint it? honestly i would have gone with a lipo or imr mod rather than AA

I think it revved one motor, but the other one doesn't want to rev. I don't have a recorder, but it sounds like a whine, but after a few seconds, it gets into a deeper hum. Without pulling the firing trigger. I think one motor has a bad connector, or is jammed.

look through the jam door at the wheels make sure both flywheels can spin freely. Like others have already said both motors rev to a nerf set speed then when you pull the other trigger they go full speed if only one of your wheels was spinning it would sound very quiet with only 1 harmonic frequency rather than a duet.

Like the silverhead said it is normal nerf put a limiter that gets removed when the pusher motor is activated when you hold it down the motors go full speed when you just run the acceleration switch the flywheels run at 75% or so.

If you are handy and know your way around a soldering iron then you could just mod it.

Hello Nerf Haven,
I have done all the basic mods to my strife (taken out electronic/mechanical locks and rewired) as well as replaced the stock motors with the Solarbotic's RM2s (This was a while ago, I realize now that it was a possible waste of money.)
I am now looking to buy the standard ultrafires/trustfires to up the voltage. I'm in Canada, so because of weird rules/lack of website support/Canadian import taxes that I'm definitely not an expert on, I (think) I need to order them from ebay.ca or amazon.ca. I have tried ordering a couple before but long story short I didn't receive them. There is also a lot of fake ultrafires that are being sold.

I came to ask my fellow Canadian's if they could give me a link(s) in order to buy 6 ultrafires/trustfires with a charger, and a dummy battery.

I would prefer for these to be tested sellers so I don't get scammed again. The number of batteries the charger supports doesn't concern me, I just need the correct batteries (size/voltage/capacity) in order to run in my stock AA battery tray.
Your help is very much appreciated.
Thanks, eh?

i would not go for anyfire...

amazon ships to canada
this site apparently stocks the but is oos right now http://www.canadaeju...ttery- Flat top

we need better details than it didn't fire...

such as it would jam up frequently or it had poor distances

if it is jamming up it is likely the dart lock in which case open it pull out the orange spring loaded thing it serves only one purpose to keep the trigger from being pulled without a dart pushing it up.

if it is just getting poor distances that is somewhat normal do a power supply mod and perhaps rewire that will fix that.

if the motors are either not working going to need to figure out why and while your at it either swap them for ones that work or rewire it and fix the break and while your at it remove the locks...

EBay trust fires... do we need to go over the biggest source for counterfeit cells again. They are not even cheaper than the red efest on amazon.

Buy the purple efest and mod for 18650 size or the 14500 red v2 they do about 10A the purple do 30A-60A though finding them in 14500 has been not fun. Also the eBay auction listed those at aaa size or 10440. Either the lister has a typo or he knows nothing about batteries.

I used my calipers a while back to measure mine it is about 28mm deep 117mm long and 54mm wide you should be able to fit 2 26650 batteries side by side if you cut out the center support and the 2 end supports you will have about 1cm at each end of the battery you would need to adjust for...

Ill redo my measurements later tonight and repost but those are the numbers i remember from when i measured mine. you do get a bit more room by dropping the tray and just using the front. But I like to keep my nerf guns semi stock and would like to if i have to drop back to stock.

I use a pair of 18650 IMR in my rapidstrike a pair of 26650 would fit too and not need a tray of their own. and you can get 26650 that can do up to 30-60A with a rather high capacity.

alternately the lipo pack would also fit all you do is remove 2 screws from the stock tray the front plate comes off and you then shove the lipo in the stock area and put the plate back...

alright thanks for that.

Well there are two locks involved one in-front of the trigger next to the mag lock and one on the bolt sled itself i removed both from mine and i have no issues you can tell if you are primed by the feel of the trigger too it will feel heavier than non primed with no locks...

the plunger tube may be in upside down that is really the only way the lock on the bolt sled can malfunction

Since you can typically squeeze 19-20 darts in an 18 round mag, try moving the bottom of the spring up with a small spacer to add some pre-compression.

that is what causes the issue if you stick only 17 or 15 in the clips have less issue. Also make sure you get them loaded in the middle so they don't touch the front or back of the clip banging the back side of the clip to keep the tacky rubber from touching the front has helped prevent jams in mine. The only other way to fix this that I can think of is to lightly sand inside the front and back of the clip so it is textured rather than smooth so the darts don't get traction on the plastic.


http://black-tactica...azine-v2-p-3343 these are the only alternative i know of.

Hello! I'm brand new to this wonderful world of Nerf and I just finished modding my first Stryfe to take out all of he locks and upgrade the junk wire. At first, all was well, but I noticed after a short time that my gun was jamming... a lot. It seems that the springs in the 18 dart N-Strike Elite magazines are a known issue and I seem to have some really bad ones. Even just a few hours loaded and they're not springing back to lift the next dart into place. I was using fresh darts and they had been loaded maybe an hour or two in advance of the game. Most of my jamming started in the early afternoon/evening when they had been loaded for about 6-8 hours.

My question is in two parts:

1. Is there a way to modify this spring to be more "springy" to stop this from happening again?

or

2. Is there a better brand of knock-off magazines that doesn't have this issue? I've been looking at the Taobao or Blasterparts banana magazines. Is one of these more reliable? I don't really want to run stock Nerf 12's, but if that's the best answer - let me know.

Thank you!

as far as i know there is no replacements or alternates for standard darts only stefans. you can try using some talc on the mag as the issue is the rubber part catching on the smooth plastic.

I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.

but that simply is not true it will reduce the number of rechargeable for other devices that are used in your household that would make better use of the low amperage low voltage batteries... Also NiMH go bad just like every other chemistry you will burn them out quicker than the devices currently using them.

there is no getting around the fact that NiMH AA batteries are not the optimal cell for this application Li-MN lasts longer preforms better and is over all better served in this case and lipo is even better...

if you absolutely must use the 1.2v NiMH batteries then i recommend a motor swap rather than strapping more cells onto your rig...

plasma dash or mach dash they are meant to run off 3-4.5v that would be the better option vs strapping a battery holder and cutting the end plate in half in the gun and connecting the extra holder to extend the battery bay by 2

I have recently modified some of my blasters, the mods include AR and lock removal and I was wondering if it is a good idea to put felt pads on the plunger head in order to make the blaster a bit quieter and safer to dry fire. if any one has any info on this topic what so ever please reply. thank you.

yes it is somewhat common Self sticking craft foam is typical it does help plunger life and makes it a bit quieter... If you filled the plunger head with hot glue first some dead space would be removed too.

you want the red efest v2 size 14500 they should deliver around 9.8 amps if you can mod to fit 18650 size cells they have batteries that will do 64 amps purple efest

the v1 red efests do around 2 amps so make sure you get v2.

I made my own dummies out of paper and wire and wood glue...

you could using the 1.2 v rechargeable go with a motor swap race motors like the plasma dash or hyper dash are meant to run at those voltages rather than the over volt the imr give...

if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...

To me it sounds like your plunger needs to be replaced the front edge came off and that is what kept that plunger from getting up over the ridge stop in the piston chamber.

What i would do is grease it up to see if it helps if it solves the issue great if not i would say that you removed too much dead space you could trim down the hot glue slowly until the issue gets fixed.

Just remember that without the AR dry fires are not recommended they will break parts.

The protection PCB should keep them safe. That's kind of the entire reason it's there.

That said, ultrafires are very unfit for this purpose. A brief google search fails to find their official safe discharge rate. Similar li-ion cells are rated to about 1-2C, which means these can really only deliver about 1A continuous. Those motors ask for 2.8-3.8A at 2.4-3.0V. You're feeding them 11.1V, so they're actually probably drawing somewhere in the ballpark of 10A or more at times. This is for one motor, you're driving two, so double that. 20A is something that even unprotected ultrafire 14500s will never, ever be able to do unless you run something like 10 or 15 of them in parallel.

Ultrafires and their cousin trustfires have their place, but driving motors is not it. Feeding 11.1V to motors rated for 3 is not a good place to be either. Sure, the Tamiyas might be able to handle it, but I'd be very careful. What you really should do is get a 1S (lithium) or 3cell (nickel) battery pack that can deliver enough current.

So back to the beginning question. Are your batteries safe? I'd say probably, but you're abusing the hell out of them, and I'm really not sure how the protection PCB will react.

When higher than normal current is drawn the protection shuts down the cell that cell that is not taking a charge either got discharged below or tripped the circuit. If you must go up to at least imr batteries they will be better off than the ultrafires which i would dispose of at this point or store them in a fire proof box. It sounds like the op over discharged them.

The best option would be a lipo 1s with the highest amperage he could find. Next a single purple efest 18650 30A. after that efest v2 14500 if possible 2 in parallel i have been toying with the idea of reworking my stryfe's battery box to have 2p2s efest 14500 v2 also i would recommend a voltage monitor addition to prevent over discharge in the future.

Depending on the age i would say a stryfe with NiMH batteries fully stock that should be good for age 4+ give them 6 round or 12 round clips as they grow old enough they can grow into the 18 rounders. The one thing i might do is remove the dart jammer...

Younger than that i would say a jolt small enough for them easy enough to prime it front loads. The fire strike might be a bit difficult for some younger kids and prone to breaking the priming handle...

That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...

My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.

Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?

Or replace both flywheel motors.

To me it seems like they are not going far enough over all like mine blasts a spray of foam out much further than yours did it seemed some went sideways in the barrel and lost energy really quick.

So would those motors work with IMRs or trust fires?

yes but not as well as a lipo pack the 180s tend to pull a bit more stall amps than IMR provide the stock motors are not so bad with 2 IMR i tossed 2 IMR 18650 in my battery tray the gun is a whole new beast and the balance it toward the center rather than forward. Mind you mine is stock.

There are a lot of threads on motors it uses the same motors as the stryfe ANY 130 size will fit in the stock spot the pusher motor can be replaced with out modding the shell with a 180 you need to mod the pusher tray. Honestly i want to put a brushless set in mine Mainly due to liking the start up sound some make just think you are getting ready and it is time to start so you flip the master on deet deet doo deet then those motor sounds...

might be easier with a rapid strike

Update:

I found out that its never the same barrel that doesnt shoot as far. Sometimes the gun fired 6/6 nicely, other times its a 5/6, and other times its a low 3/6 or 2/6. Any way i can avoid this?

sounds like dart wear you might want to check the foam pad on the plunger if it is damaged or worn that is the seal that hits the cylinder and makes the seal to fire the dart. that spring might be weak or broken.

 

14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.

 

A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.

 

Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.

im a bit late on my reply but...

 

when I rewired to remove locks i had enough wire in the stock wiring to double up and omit the locks bigger NEW wire is better but worked in a pinch. As for how much power li-mn can provide... 6.5 A and 9.8amp in a burst vs the 3A burst the stock motors pull...you need 2 that is 14 dollars it used to be A LOT easier at the time of my post to buy these batteries. But still 26650 which fit in a rapidstrike tray with modification and a spacer will deliver 30A constant... Now as for the mod to use 26650 in a rapidstrike two balls of aluminum foil on the springs to space forward the 26650 and you are good. 7.4v is not enough of a over volt from the 6v it is stock that the gun is not very functional. From there you can get into more in depth mods but 10$ for a pair of IMR batteries and .20 cents of foil get you started.

I've got no idea how far the single goes. The quad shells are much more useful.

And I only lubed up the launcher piston. Nothing else.

i saw a mod where they teflon wrapped the piston 4 times and put a thicker o ring in his demo and got his missiles to go 45 ft his he also showed all of the compression was in the last inch of the launcher.

Nevermind nerf trolls customers...

the difference in the flywheel XD vs just the elite was a new flywheel cage with the wheels a few mm closer together to give them a better grip on the dart.