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There have been 433 items by diamondbacknf1626 (Search limited from 11-November 96)
#211626 At2k Problem
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 11 February 2009 - 10:06 PM in Modifications
By the way, if you choose to spray the valve with silicon lubricant, just be careful, because that's what your first few shots are going to smell like.
#217913 Maverick Question
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 14 March 2009 - 01:44 PM in Modifications
#223155 Cpvc Maverick Help?
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 11 April 2009 - 11:43 PM in Modifications
EDIT- Damn, cheezypizza beat me too it, and in the exact same form. Well, mine, you have to follow the link, so if you're lazy, try his.
#236887 Another New Toy
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 17 June 2009 - 08:59 AM in General Nerf
#226247 Question On Painting A Nerf Gun...
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 26 April 2009 - 04:39 PM in Modifications
#242678 Buna N Vs. Fluorelastomer Seat
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 19 July 2009 - 01:19 PM in Homemades
#242753 Buna N Vs. Fluorelastomer Seat
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 19 July 2009 - 05:26 PM in Homemades
Ok, purchasing check valves from mcmaster. The above is an option when choosing an 1/8" nylon check valve w/ barbed adaptors. I'm not sure of the difference. I found this, but that was in refference to o-rings. Can anyone offer some help?
The check valves have an o-ring in them that forms the seat for the ball bearing. (I'm assuming here that you're buying the standard check valve which is the spring-loaded ones).
So uh, reread Slug's post.
Whoops...misread. Still important though, cause I'd like to know which of the two would be more chemically resistant. While Buna N is mentioned, Fluorelastomer is not.
#221590 Repairing Or Replacing A Boltsled
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 04 April 2009 - 05:19 PM in Modifications
I broke the boltsled somehow. It is broken right where the boltsled turns upward to connect to the bolt.
Like THIS:
........======++=====
........======++=====
....................++
....................++
Broke here-> +++++++++++++++
The + means the boltsled, the = means the bolt.
Any ideas on how to fix this?
EDIT: Sorry, I can't find my SD card converter (I am using a cell phone to take pictures.)
Regardless of how you repair it, it's not going to be returned to the strength that it once was. Your best bet is to buy another bolt sled from someone (PM me, I could help you out with that), and re-enforce it like Tantum bull did in his writeup that he posted earlier.
#224904 What Gun Should I Use In A Nerf War
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 21 April 2009 - 08:48 PM in General Nerf
Hello I can't decide.
Then listen to alextwin and try each out. You'll never be able to decide unless you try. We cannot decide this for you.
#224761 Long Island War
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 21 April 2009 - 03:11 PM in Nerf Wars
#222099 Nerf To Airsoft
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 06 April 2009 - 09:53 PM in Modifications
#224741 Long Island War
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 21 April 2009 - 02:11 PM in Nerf Wars
Something tells me his invite may be um...expired.
#221576 Longshot Bolt Sled Reinforcement
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 04 April 2009 - 04:24 PM in Modifications
#221602 Longshot Bolt Sled Reinforcement
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 04 April 2009 - 05:59 PM in Modifications
Excellent work! I just had a bolt sled break at the "L" point on me yesterday. I replaced it with another and just re-enforced the hell out of it along the inside of the whole thing using epoxy puddy. I'll definitely do this as well. I'll take your word that it works, because I really needed this writeup. Thank you, again.
Thanks, tell me how it goes. I was actually originally considering going on the inside of the sled. Then I realized that the wire would rub against the clip. The funny part is, halfway through the mod I discovered that my wire was too thick, and thus did that part where I shaved down the bolt sled. I may use that same method to put a wire on the inside and prevent the rubbing.
See, mine is singled, so I can re-enforce it like crazy with epoxy puddy on the inside without worrying about it rubbing against a clip. So now I'll do both, and it should be a tank.
#220729 Manhattan
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 30 March 2009 - 05:38 PM in Modifications
However, I'm not trying to be a backseat mod, but the place for this would really be in the Mods/Paintjobs thread. Unless you've done something unique, or are posting a writeup of sorts, this really isn't where it belongs. Nicely done though, the superclip looks quite clean.
#227870 Bonsai!
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 03 May 2009 - 10:44 AM in General Nerf
#220366 Lnl Question
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 28 March 2009 - 09:02 PM in Modifications
And no, don't worry about it breaking. Again, I'll second what magic said. You could use some plunger cushion, although it doesn't have a flat, hard, nf style plunger head, so it may not need cushion. You shoud be fine without re-enforcement.
#301242 Modular Air Blaster System
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 09 July 2011 - 11:53 AM in Homemades
It's obviously for a hose, but what's unique about it is that the valve doesn't operate slowly, depending on how fast you squeeze the "trigger." I'm not sure of it's actual inner-workings, but when you pull the trigger, there's a point at which the valve clicks into the open position. To close, you pull again, it clicks again. I anticipate that this would translate into a much faster air release. I already removed the front portion, but for sake of finding this in a store, it had this on the front:
I purchased it at a local hardware store and haven't really gotten the chance to experiment with it. Maybe you could figure something out.
#302522 Homemade "Internals" Nitefinder
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 29 July 2011 - 10:25 PM in Homemades
#301690 Homemade "Internals" Nitefinder
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 17 July 2011 - 12:34 PM in Homemades
Does it have any vent holes in the rear of the plunger tube?
No, actually. It doesn't seem to have any issues lacking them though. The back of the plunger assembly isn't entirely airtight.
#301687 Homemade "Internals" Nitefinder
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 17 July 2011 - 12:16 PM in Homemades
So, basically this idea spawned out of my brother getting an LpL from Merzlin. The blaster was mad awesome, but doesn't quite fit in line with his Nitefinder lovin'. For those who don't know, my brother uses NF's as primaries at every war he goes to. He actually does pretty well...but I figured he needed an upgrade.
The idea was to maintain a nitefinder feel, but step up the power, durability, and consistency. Everything was accomplished here. So, let's get started, shall we? This writeup is certainly not exhaustive, but should give you enough info to do what you have to do.
Materials:
-[k25] (or [k26], I guess) spring from McMaster carr. Other springs could probably be substituted here...it's 5.5" long.
-Sch. 40 1 1/4" Clear (or opaque) PVC
-2 3/4" PVC endcaps
1 1"X1/2" PVC bushing
-4 3/8" 6-32 set screws
-4 3/8" 6-32 machine screws
-2 1/2" 6-32 machine screws
-4 3/4" 6-32 machine screws
-Skirt seal from mcmaster
-A wee bit of 1/4" Polycarbonate
-3/8" X 3/8" square nylon rod
-3/16" Aluminum rod (Or some other priming handle
-Epoxy putty
-Plumbers goop
-Packing tape
-Skillz
Edit: Approximate cost, disregarding skillz (priceless), and including the cost of the nitefinder is about $26.33, so less than $30. I factored in $10 for the NF, however, I'm sure most people have them laying around or could find them for around $5 generally or for even less at thrift stores. I'm just playing it safe.
Tools I used:
-Scroll saw
-Handheld drill
-Various drill bits, see writeup for details
-6/32" tapping bit
-Hex driver
-Screw driver, obvs
-Bandsaw
-Dremel w/ cutting disk (for cutting aluminum rod and spring)
-Probably something else that I'm forgetting...
^First, modify your shell like so. You may need to do some playing around to get it just the way you want it, but the square hole for the plunger rod should be as close to center in your PT as you can get it. This will allow for the smoothest functioning of the blaster.
Also, cut your trigger. (I actually cut this one a bit too much, you should not cut all the way up to the point where the trigger ramp begins. If you do, you could mess up the trigger's ability to push up the catch far enough. I used a different trigger than the one pictured).
Fill these portions of your shell with e-putty. Do this right away so that it can start to dry while you continue your build. This is not for re-enforcement purposes, but will serve as a filler for when you need to drill and tap this area later on.
Now's also a good time to wrap your bushing in 6 layers of packing tape and then goop it into place. This should also be later secured with 4 set screws and then wrapped once or twice with packing tape to ensure a perfect seal around the screws.
Re-enforce your catch plate (remember, this will mean you have to orient your catch correctly when you re-install it in your blaster. Re-enforced side forwards). This re-enforcement probably isn't necessary, being that I've put plenty of stock NF catches under much more stress than this one is under, and have never, ever had an issue. Also, you can cut your plunger rod now, too. Should be 8.5" If you're using the same length PT that I am. On the plunger rod, drill a 3/16" hole about 1/2" from the back, through the side. This will be for your priming handle. Also, cut your catch notch 2.5" from the front of the rod. The catch notch does not need to be very deep, being that the NF catch plate really does not have very much area to catch on. Drill and tap the front end of the rod with a 7/64" drill bit and a 6-32 tapping bit. This will be for you plunger head. (we won't do that until later. I generally try to keep my plunger head away from all the cutting of PVC and polycarbonate).
Let's get to work on the spring rest. The idea here was to have everything mechanically fastened.
First, cut out your 1.5" X 1.5" piece of 1/4" Polycarb, and get ahold of your 3/4" endcap.
Glue the two together with some form of superglue so that the endcap touches one of the edges of the polycarb and is centered between the adjacent two. This is just to hold it in place while we drill, tap, and then screw the two pieces together. Try to get the screws as far to the inside edges of the endcap as possible. Even if they're into the walls of the endcap a bit, that's even better.
Drill a 3/8" Hole in the two pieces, as central as possible to the endcap.
Using a scroll saw, complete the hole, making it into a 3/8" x 3/8" square. File it out nice so that the plunger rod has enough clearance to slide smoothly and even wiggle around a bit. You also notice in this picture that I've drilled 4 5/32" holes, one in each of the corners of the polycarb. Go ahead and do that now.
Once your epoxy putty has dried, go ahead and drill four corresponding holes in your shell as seen above. Go right on through to the back of the shell. These will not interfere with the catch plate, being that the catch plate is nowhere near the far sides of the shell. Now, here's the bit I don't have many pictures of, the plunger head. Basically, the plunger head consists of this 3/4" endcap:
which is cut down a bit, and has a 5/32" hole drilled through the center. It also consists of a circular piece of 1/4" polycarb, about 1" in diameter, which fits inside the skirt and serves as a spacer, as well as another circular piece of 1/4" polycarb (3/16" or 1/8" would work here too)that sits in front of the skirt. You can kind of see the plunger head here:
You can also see, there, the reason for the 3/4" endcaps. Being that I used a 5.5" length of [k25] spring, they 3/4" endcaps keep it perfectly centered, right where it needs to be, so that it does not interfere with anything, and leads to a super snooth prime. You can also see, here, that the plunger tube is secured to the rear 3/4" endcap by four 3/8" long 6-32 screws. Also, I slathered everything in the plunger head with goop, to make sure no air would leak through.
At this point, you're just down to assembly. Put it all together, spring and all. The final step is hammering in a 2" length of aluminum rod into the plunger rod for the priming handle. Once you've done that, congrats, your done .
Ranges are around 80-90' with slugs, which I'm quite happy with. That was just with a barrel I had laying around. I'm going to play with the barrel fit a little, see if I can bump that up at all, but really, that's totally sufficient. The blaster, expectedly, primes really easy, and has a perfect seal. I give a little more overview in this very groggy video. Anyway, lemme know what y'all think. Feel free to ask if you need clarification about anything, I know I was missin' some pictures.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOJc-9i71bk
Another Edit: Also, it does have vent holes now . Now that I've established a proper barrel length (12" of CPVC), I'm achieving ranges of 90-100 consistently. I added a zip tie around the main body of the blaster and the PT just to keep things from wiggling around at all. The back does all the structural work, the zip tie just keeps things steady. Also, I've fired tons and tons of shots out of this and am not noticing any signs of even the slightest wear. It's as solid as could be.
#227867 Bonsai!
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 03 May 2009 - 10:36 AM in General Nerf
And it would be a ton more fun without the weapon restrictions.
Which is why I voted no. No offence, but gun restrictions beyond pistols only in gunslinger, and the general banned guns brought the fun of the game down a bit for me. It'd be cool without gun restricions beyond that all the captains can use is a pistol.
#312311 The Definitive Guide to Posting From an iDevice
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 03 March 2012 - 10:25 AM in General Nerf
#233173 Whats Next For This Ls?
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 28 May 2009 - 08:58 PM in Modifications
#295581 A Long Over-due Explanation
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 08 March 2011 - 05:21 PM in Off Topic
Hey, as a token of solidarity, you want an NF, gratis? We gotta support one another.
PM me...I can't possibly turn down a nitefinder
If you make it up to a Canadian war there will be a blastfire waiting for you.
^One thing that I very much hope to do in the near future. Thanks a lot man. We'll see 'bout that one. By the way, FA...
...I don't know if you recognize those longshot remains...
#295135 A Long Over-due Explanation
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 27 February 2011 - 05:45 PM in Off Topic
Long time no post...it's been awhile. I'd just like to take a moment to give you all an idea of what's been going on in my life for the past year plus, and why I've been so inactive, for those who don't already know. On the Friday before Christmas two Christmas's ago (the 19th of December, I believe it was), I lost my house along with everything in it to a fire. My family, my pets and I were all that made it out unscathed, other than a few lucky breaks with several cherished belongings passed down from my great-grandmother as well as our many photo-albums filled with pictures from family events throughout the years. This loss included the entirety of my nerf collection. Not only does this mean guns, but spare parts, tools, modding materials, darts, etc. were all gone. As it was a total loss, we decided to rebuild, and we rebuilt the same house from the ground up (appart from the foundation, which remained intact). Although there are some differences and everything's obviously new, the structure and floorplan of the house are almost identical. We moved back in just before Thanksgiving this past November. In the meantime we lived at a rental house nearby where I had essentially no area to mod, limited tools, and limited time with all that was going on. It was hard, but life goes on, and you get through it. I'm really, to be totally honest, just happy to have my family. The fire started as a result of a rusted out cap on the bottom of the chimney, in conjunction with dry leaves, a dry night, and a spark (or so we believe). It happened at 10:30 PM or so, and we were all home, awake, about to go to sleep. The fire wasn't put out well into the morning hours, and at that point, it was too late. Throughout the time in the rental house I did modify several blasters, prepped for apoc, etc. I also attended a BCNO during that time period, so I have plenty of blasters, and now that I've found my darts, things are shaping up nerf-wise. I still though, unfortunately, lost all of my spare parts, tools, and many blasters that I, and others, put a lot of work into. Fellows, the fallen:
All of the above were spared to some degree, leaving melted remains behind. Everything in my bedroom was gone entirely, including my crossbow, other SNAPs, Plusbow, etc. In some of the cases above, actually, most notably my SNAPbow, you're seeing it's "good side." It didn't want me to take a picture of its bad side. These remains are all for sale if there are any crazies out there interested in some modern art .
Now, I'd like to address another thing. There are a small group of individuals out there who questioned the authenticity, the truth to the tragedy that my family and I underwent, stating that I used it as an "excuse" to get out of things, to not hold up on transactions that I may have been involved in. This is, for lack of a better word, bullshit. Someone who would fake what I went through in order to cop out on obligations they've made is a horrible, horrible person. Something like this is not something you make up "for funzies." So those of you who were "calling bullshit" on me, and you know who you are, I hope you feel like ass holes. That's all on that.
Keep in mind, gents, this isn't a search for sympathy, just a conformation for those of you who were unaware as to the reasons for my absence or the nature of what happened to me last year. I will be posting this in off-topic as well, intentionally as it belongs there as well.
As for the second portion of this "sales thread," if any of you have any of those "spare parts," that I mentioned earlier that you may be willing to part with for little to nothing, I could really use them.
I also posted several videos to this channel throughout the time at the rental house discussing it all. I also will be posting videos as my workstation begins to come together and other assorted nerf-videos, including a tour of the new house.
So yeah guys, post here, PM me, whateva...Nice posting again
#231250 Ls
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 19 May 2009 - 08:22 AM in General Nerf
You can increase range though. Plug the hole in the side of the barrel, drill out ars, increase plunger head-plunger tube seal via either e-tape/teflon tape under o-rings or replace the plunger head entirely CS style. Then, re-enforce the boltsled, and add I believe 4 1/2" of a +bow spring under the longshot spring. That's all you're going to be able to do with a stock breech. I'm not entirely sure what you'll hit, as I don't have one modded like that, that was all gathered from things I could find around the site and common sense.
#224739 Nightfinder Question
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 21 April 2009 - 02:09 PM in Modifications
Hey guys i was rummaging through my old nerf stuff and found a tech target spring and was wondering would it work in a nightfinder with a original nightfinder spring in it also or will it break my gun? Feedback would be nice and can i add a tech target o ring to it because when i put it on with the nightfinder o ring it was a tad too big.
If I remember correctly, yes, it will work. However, it's not recommended. Nether spring is really that strong. Replace it with a stronger spring, and yes, re-enforce it. Again, I'm not positive with the o-ring.
Best option: Try it
#232796 A Need To Know Of Many Guns
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 27 May 2009 - 08:20 AM in Off Topic
Ok, well many people talk about guns going off on them because of weak catches. Well, while I was running tests to see what was wrong with my singled LS I put my finger in the T to see if anything was lodged in there. The catch gave up on me. Lets just say that the pipe made a connection with the coupler and that I'm not writing this message with that finger. Also, some of my LS may have a blood-red color scheme.
This is just a message to everyone, saying TAKE PRECAUTIONS before you start experimenting with these things. Not that I could have prevented that in any way, but I could have used something more practical than my finger. I'm so naive.
Have fun nerfin safely,
~chris~
I think this is important in a way. While it was a stupid idea to stick your finger in the middle of a singled longshot's breech, it's a stupid idea that many people have. This would be one of my main problems with singled longshots. Safety issue. At some point, your catch will fail, and your finger will be toast.
I think the message of all these threads popping up is just be careful. Yes, shit happens, but you can try to make sure it doesn't. Not every accident needs its own thread, but yes, safety is important when modding or using nerf blasters.
And Vacc, not trying to disagree with you, because I completely agree. Having a gun primed while it's open is asking for a disaster, but this can happen even with the gun closed, which is why I hate singled LS's so much. Every time you load a dart into one, you risk your finger. He probably just tried to stick his finger in while the gun was still closed and primed to check, and the catch disengaged on him. I used to have one that slipped on me. My finger wasn't there, thank god, but after that, I never used it again.
#208924 Mod Man Foam Question
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 02 February 2009 - 03:36 PM in General Nerf
By the way, you can use his darts in CPVC with high powered air guns (banned ones, like Titans and Jet Hawks Glider blasters) and they have insane results.
#213351 Dtb Questions
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 18 February 2009 - 08:36 PM in Modifications
Those pictures don't work for me either, neither do any of the DTB mods besides the removable clip. That's actually why I came up with my own method for rebarraling. Not quite sure how the internal banding works on these. If I find anything out though, I'll post.
#237370 Spiderman Gun Thing
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 19 June 2009 - 11:01 AM in Modifications
Slug, I've been meaning to ask you though, I like your use of it on your shotgun, and I'd do the same on mine, but is that not awkward to prime with that mounted there? It looks like it'd be tough to get a good grip without fear of ripping the spiderman thing off.
Are they still as easy to find on clearance as you mentioned in that thread?
#213402 Dtb Questions
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 18 February 2009 - 11:08 PM in Modifications
#223678 Lock 'n Load Coupler Mod
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 14 April 2009 - 08:11 PM in Modifications
#221955 Extending Plunger Pull.
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 06 April 2009 - 07:50 AM in Modifications
There is a writeup (in the mod directory) on how to do exactly this to a DTG.
Yes, that's my mod in the mod directory and it's doable. I've looked at the NF and thought about doing it, but I guess I never got around to it, I don't remember why.
But the reason that I only went 1/2 inch more with mine was exactly what cheesypizza said, the plunger physically wouldn't go back any further. I also know that Mr. Badwrench got an extra 1/4 inch out of a Maverick, you'll find that thread on NHQ, it was something about rebarreling a Maverick.
I think the best thing to do is just check how much further things will pull back after they're already primed, then decide what's preventing them from being pulled back further. In the case of the DTB, it was the shell that wouldn't allow it to pull back that extra half inch, and it had to be cut. On the NF, I think it would be the spring being fully compressed. The Maverick needed the catch reversed. I briefly looked at the Firefly, and I think the priming handle prevents it mostly.
I bid you good luck.
Just a quick thing I wanted to mention to you about your DTB mod. If I remember correctly, you didn't fill in the original notch in the plunger rod. I'd recommend you do, simply because if you're trying to get off a quick few shots with that, it'd be annoying if you ave the two catches, because sometimes you may catch on the first one, then the second one, then a few of the first one and so on. You'd end out with shots at varrying ranges
#223848 Dtb Mods?
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 15 April 2009 - 07:34 PM in Modifications
You really should have searched but here you go...
http://nerfhaven.com...opic=12813&st=0
It is actually part of an integration with a BBBB, but it has petg barrel replacement.
I actually found a far more simple method than the one used in that writeup for re-barreling with PETG. Simply take a 1" piece of 17/32" brass, and glue it in one of the barrel stubs on the main part of the turret (the parts that hereticorp sanded off in his writeup). Repeat this for each of the barrels. Then, glue the PETG barrels on over the 17/32" This allows for perfectly straight barrels, and they're easy to put on. I will have a more detailed writeup if I ever get around to it, but simply put, use an inch of 17/32 to make a joint between the PETG and the stock turret barrel stubs.
#226946 Best Way To Take Out Maverick Air Restrictors?
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 28 April 2009 - 07:25 PM in General Nerf
#223860 Dtb Mods?
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 15 April 2009 - 08:17 PM in Modifications
Tsk, tsk, tsk.
another oneI tried that, and it works really well, very interesting way of replacing barrels, I think I'll do that on my other DTB.I actually found a far more simple method than the one used in that writeup for re-barreling with PETG. Simply take a 1" piece of 17/32" brass, and glue it in one of the barrel stubs on the main part of the turret (the parts that hereticorp sanded off in his writeup). Repeat this for each of the barrels. Then, glue the PETG barrels on over the 17/32" This allows for perfectly straight barrels, and they're easy to put on. I will have a more detailed writeup if I ever get around to it, but simply put, use an inch of 17/32 to make a joint between the PETG and the stock turret barrel stubs.
Yeah, I do like it. It's a lot easier too. I wasn't sure if anyone had done it before me. Unfortunately, when I did it, it was when I used scissors to cut my PETG, so the edges are pinched a bit.
#234646 Dart Tag Blaster Modification
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 06 June 2009 - 04:00 PM in Modifications
And no, it won't work with CPVC. The brass doesn't fit in it.
#248828 Bcno V
Posted by diamondbacknf1626 on 27 August 2009 - 08:39 PM in Nerf Wars
Well it looks like we can just get 6 people if Skitzo makes it. What do you guys want to do?
It's also looking like lots of rain saturday. Taking both those chances really doesn't seem worth it...for me anyway. Hour drive for nothing...I think my bro and I are out if things don't shape up.
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