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There have been 174 items by PissBacon (Search limited from 23-July 94)
Despite getting some weird ultrasound on my heart, they doctor wasn't sure about the hearty-explody thing, so I still run every day; it was probably the most expensive physical I've ever gone in for (insurance didn't cover ultrasound for some reason).
EDIT: I'm going to have to take back what I said since it was extremely vague. What you are asking about requires a bit of extra work; it isn't exactly simple. For help working offline at times, check out this forum discussion.
What does the president have to do with high gas prices.
Yeah but you can't drive until we get a new president.
More importantly, how do high gas prices stop you from driving an efficient car?
edit: Sorry, I hadn't refreshed the page, and didn't see all the people who posted in between those first page posts. PS - Merlinski, why are you using an RX7's body if you're taking out the main engine system so you can do a bunch of stuff to it? Can't you just use the car with the good engine that comes with (like a Supra)?
not to go crazy on correcting people.. but how soft a metal is has nothing to do with conductivity. In fact, gold is a great conductor, hence its use in lots of electric connections, especially audio connectors.
Silver is, I think, the best metal conductor, but I'm not totally sure so don't hold me to it. I know it's not gold because it's too soft.
For xmas i got a crybaby 535Q and 13 Songs
Don't ignore this; this is very close to what is sought (actually, the idea of actionball is as close as it gets without being nerf). These seem to be properly weighted considering they're fired from paintball guns. There are still a few things to account for, such as the potential difference in barrel size, and the poor aerodynamics at low speeds (price is also quite high).
Actionball has foam balls used in paintball guns available. About $0.50 per ball though. I've seem them, they are pretty soft. Never felt one shot from a paintball gun though.
For homemade balls, that can be weighted easily, why not try crayola Model Magic foam? I've seen unweighted ones used in the same situations as Actionball. They are used in spring guns.
I'm not talking about balls, im talking about short FBR chunks.
If you think spheres aren't aerodynamic at low velocity, have a look at short FBR cylinders; I'm not even sure how much worse that option is.
Personally, I'm pretty interested in rifling a barrel for some ball-type ammo to stabilize shots, and just for the sake of nerf modding.
Though the current state of nerf will stay, if this grows successful I can imagine an increased gravitation towards paintballing, since anything we create will just be struggling to emulate the design and performance of professionally engineered paintball guns.
Covering a painful projectile with plastic tape will not make it any less painful.
Heres a possibility: Instead of bying 4000 of those things, take a bb or two and make a tape ball around it, lightweight, your bb is the centrat weight, and you can make planty. Just a thought, might not work.
And I believe it's already been emphasized, but weight is not the only issue of a projectile. It's ok for airsoft ammo to be so like because it's so tiny and thus has much lower wind resistance; a large foam ball with the same weight suffers much more drag. Why do you think throwing a large nerf ball at someone hurts much less than a small rock?
One thing I notice that differs in design, though, is the way your breach system works. The reason my system was a bit awkward was due to the inside slider as opposed to the much simpler outside slider. My reason for going with the inside slider was that there would be no change from larger to smaller diameters as the dart exits, and the effect of an ideal BBB barrel would be created each time a dart is chambered, with no rough surfaces for resistance and all the proper diameters. This seemed to be a positive change, to go to a simpler plan which probably results in perfectly useful ranges.
Another difference was that you used the upper slider to attach to the loader, which was something I had initially envisioned before needing leverage for the inner slider; of course using the lower (larger) sliding shell to attach to would be impractical when using large plastic piping as you did.
A last difference I'd like to point out is the use of a deodorant stick for a clip. While this is fine for you specifically (and the lid makes it very convenient), the deodorant stick is not a standard size, so people may not be able to reproduce it as easily. If you can make a receiver, the audio tape case is reliably the perfect size for stock darts and stefans cut to the proper size.
Sweet work Forsaken, reap the rewards of a high ROF BBB. Here's to hoping I don't sound presumptuous.
In general, the Venice revision of AMD processors are ideal, though if you aren't overclocking it doesn't matter too much.
Speaking of processor cores I earlier said I was upgrading to a AMD 4000+. Ayone know what the differences are between ones like Newcastle, Clawhammer, San Diego, Venice, Barton and which ones are better?
hers what i got XPS
Too bad Dell sells overpriced computers, like any other retailer.
Does anyone have a shuttle pc or similar form factor?
Slaya, that is just a modified windows shell. The shell is the gui part of windows, so really the start menu and all you see is easily substituted for something much cleaner. I've also chosen to not have icons clutter my desktop; the bar at the top has more than enough functionality. Currently I'm running the litestep shell using a nonstep theme, but there are tons of different shells and skins available. Be careful what you install though, some of the shells/skins have memory leaks (shivers).
I'd like to add it was only in the past few months I bought my computer; I tend to be thrifty and wait until parts are reasonably priced, instead of spending $700 on an effing graphics card.
BFG VNF4 nfofo s.939 (Don't buy this board)
OCZ modstream 520w
Gigabyte Nvidia 6600GT
PQi 1 GB ultra-low latency
Seagate Barracuda 120GB SATA
HP DVD640I (litescribe capable)
Zalman VF700-Cu and CNPS9500 LED (used to be CNPS 7700-Cu)
Antec P180 (original fans and ducts stripped)
3 x Nexus 120mm (manual voltage)
Hyundai Imagequest L90D+ 19''
No tacky lights, stickers, windows; just silence.
EDIT: This is my desktop for anyone who cares (click on image for fullsize).
Also, how does it feel so far in terms of sturdiness? Are all of the parts fitting well together and sturdy, or does it feel like it would break if you hit it a little too hard on something?
Click This For Fullsize
Here's my take on the reissue of the big bad bow. Unfortunately, I haven't had access to a decent digital camera for a while, but I promise to have good photos up very soon. If there is enough interest I will bother to create a writeup. Flat grey paintjob by the way (if you can't bear the photos).
The breech is simply 17/32" brass within a special cut piece of 9/16" brass. The beauty of this breech is that it does not waste barrel lineage, as the breech slides back over the dart, creating an excellent, clean seal (which requires no shell). It's lubricated with silicon (silicone? wish I understood the difference) lubricant to ensure smooth loading. I may as well mention the barrel briefly now. After browsing for a recommended barrel type for the bbb, I ran into cxwq's suggestion, and stuck with it: 2" of 17/32" at the start nested in 6" of 9/16", all inside of 10" of 19/32". My setup gives the effect of these measurements, though not built quite the same. The breech slider offers that first 2", the breech piece gives the 4" in its size, and then the last 4" is covered by 19/32". What you see in the photos is some sch 80 pvc to protect the fragile brass assembly. At the very beginning of the barrel, there is a piece of dental floss taught tight across the diameter of the barrel, which is crucial to the functioning of my breech system (explained later).
This clip (8 dart capacity) is actually made from a normal tape/cassette case with one end dremeled off. I've had the most luck with "Scotch High Position XSII-S 100 IEC Type II" tape cases since they have the least amount of excess crap on the inside to sand down. After dremeling away at the case and adding some nice black masking tape, I ended up with a perfect clip. Since this is a gravity system, the top dart is actually filled with weights evenly inside to press down on the other darts, and is not a fireable dart. In the photo there is a rubberband over the clip to prevent the darts from rolling out of the open end. This clip can be easily made, and with some velcro, many clips can be easily carried.
I had a bit of fun making this piece, which accepts the clip. It's a cut piece of plexiglass which I then heated with a candle along certain points, and bent, to form the shape you see. I marked the bend points ahead of time in sharpie to know where to heat and form right angles. If you decide to do this, make sure you have acrylic plexiglass and not polycarbonate, since polycarbonate is not a thermal plastic (will just make a big mess if you put it to the fire).
Parts I haven't explained yet
Once I take good photos, I'll be sure to have some detailed internal shots. The way the breech actually works is linked to the 'trigger' half of the gun. There is a length of coathanger (use musicwire in the future) which I carefully bent in several ways, which attaches to the trigger half, and slides along one side of the plunger assembly and out through one side of the gun. This piece is then attached to the sliding breech piece on one side (out of the way of darts), therefore making the breech move when the bbb is cocked. When the two parts are pushed together, the breech opens and a dart drops in; when pulled apart, the slider slips over the dart (which is held in place by the dental floss bit previously mentioned), and is ready to be fired.
Questions welcomed (I've left plenty out).
I haven't tested ranges yet, I'm letting the epoxy and epoxy putty fully cure first before firing (I've loaded darts to test the breech, but removed them manually).
What Illadar and Suave have said pretty much cover the action of the barrel if my explanation is confusing. Since the plastic parts I cut (sch 80 pvc, trimmed original barrel, reciever) fit together well, it makes for a sturdy gun with no sagging like many barrels I see.
Boltsniper, I don't know where I'd find the bandwidth/hosting for a clip of the gun in action.
When time permits, I will create a writeup, just very busy now.
Thanks for the compliments. Music wire, in a hobby store, is that stuff similar to coathanger metal, but more uniform and easier to work with, not to mention it comes in different diameters. For these reasons it's preferable to use if I were to do it over again.
Why did you say "use music wire in the future", PissBacon?
It's incredible how busy I've been lately; this project's full documentation has been put off for months because of all the things I've been dealing with. Hopefully some weekend I'll get around to a video and/or some accurate ranges.
EDIT: Some more detailed specifics about this car: 0-60 in under 4 seconds, over 50 mpg, 200 horse turbo diesel and 200 horse electrics. The batteries are intended mostly for acceleration, so the diesel runs during normal use
My current ride isn't so bad; how do those of you in highschool get your parents to buy you cars? It's the same thing with my friends, they all get cars for birthdays or after getting a license, but I can't afford a car or the insurance.
Edit: My bad, looks like it only supports windows. -Sorry.
Anyway, for anyone who doesn't know how to hook up their psp, make sure you got a wireless router running mixed 802.11b/g, and boot up your psp. Make sure your wireless switch is on. Go into the network settings, pick infrastructure mode, and make a new connection(any name works). Scan for your router, and select it when you find it. Go to the next screen, and choose to custom set up your address settings. Use automatic IP address settings, and then manual DNS settings manually. For the primary DNS, use 220.127.116.11. Your secondary DNS address should be whatever your router's is (start menu>run>type cmd in the box>type in ipconfig in the dos prompt, hit enter). Do not use a proxy server. Test your connection, save it, and then fire up wipeout pure. Go into the 'download' option in wipeout pure, and select the new connection you made. It should load up a portal that says psp web portal by fugimax, and will have a bunch of things to click on. If it only shows a mostly grey screen w/ a little thingy in the upper left corner, hit the square button (refresh button) to reload the page. Try a few times if it doesn't work. This site gets tons of traffic so patience is key; sometimes the site is just down. If it loads up the wipeout pure coming soon deal, that means the site is down, and it's using the secondary DNS you put in, which connects to the site it's supposed to go to.
Another option if the DNS is down a lot is a secondary portal. Just use 18.104.22.168 which is another portal made for the psp (you could substitute this for your secondary DNS if you wanted). It also gets lots of traffic, so bear that in mind.
As for browsing, some tips are to avoid sites with lots of flash and crazy coding, as they can lock up your psp (no biggie, just hold the power switch till it shuts off). The hidden browser can only run basic html, no flash, java, music, video, shockwave, etc. One plus is that it can load up images, so be sure to check out pennyarcade. Another plus is that IRC for psp is in development. As for actual browsing, L is back, R is foreward, x is enter (usu. html link), sqare is reload, and the arrows are for scrolling through pages or moving between links. To exit the browser, press the start button. There is a loading indicator in the upper left corner which will move when stuff is loading, and stop when it's done. Remember, the psp isn't near as strong as a pc, so keep patience when browsing, as it's not really designed to do so.
If I left stuff out, just ask or PM.
I'm willing to bet at least one person here has heard of a gauss gun, where there is an inductor fed a high voltage pulse of electricity, causing a projectile to rapidly accelerate. With the right sort of (iron, cobalt, nickel) weight in the stefan, it could be projected at high speeds. It would require much more energy to fire a foam covered piece with high wind resistance than a dense solid slug, so making one you can easily move from place to place might not be realistic.
I've seen a lot of people posting ideas like alka-seltzer, but this and many others are just different ways of producing air pressure; there really aren't that many ways to propel a chunk of foam when all of the available methods are considered.
Some of its lack of popularity may be due to inferior quality (mainly durability) when compared to Hasbro alternatives (though it sure is accessible at $10). I still consider it a decent gun and bought a second after modding my first though. If you're concerned about range you can search to find what other people are getting with the guns you mentioned
Interesting; I too was planning a clip mod for the bbb due to its sliding action.
That's fookin' great! I'm already planning some sort of a clip mod on it, so I'll need at least one. The only thing that sucks is the $25 price tag. And that air restrictor doesn't sound too friendly...Nonetheless, it's definitely worth it. Hopefully it will reach Minnesota soon. (I still haven't seen an FF) Thanks for the good news!
Sort of on a tangent; someone mentioned the ompa clip, so I searched for it, and couldn't believe my eyes. It was essentially the same design I recently posted, and I never realized it had already been invented. The only real difference was that I used an expensive maglite instead of a piece of pipe like I should have.
This probably reveals my plans for a bbb anyway, with the sliding action and all.
EDIT: I read further in the NHQ post and found it is indeed a plunger. I still don't know about the checked baggage rules, if a minor can carry a toy shotgun on an airplane[in checked baggage].
Did anyone else notice that at NHQ Tricksleeves claims 42' flat? Could it be an inconsistency in production, or is it just common measure inflation? Seems like if the plastic was just molded a touch wrong, the barrel and shell seal would be very inefficient.
I have one, it shoots 20' stock, and I STILL like it. Although I think drilling out the shells would really help.
Buzz bee really doesn't look to have original content comming out at the moment, and the cheap plastic really detracts from their guns, at least to me. Why would I buy the knockoff when I can get the real maveric for only a few bucks anyway? I'll wait to judge the other two new ones just yet, but my expectations are low.