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C-A 99's Content
There have been 77 items by C-A 99 (Search limited from 22-February 93)
Suburban Detroit Nerf Club
Detroit and everything within 50 miles
Superstock and NIC, non-metal darts. (Please use SCS - http://nerfhaven.com...ction-cup-slug/, Workers, etc.)
See Facebook page for game rules.
See Discord server for active discussions and the full, up-to-date war directory.
Facebook Group: https://www.facebook...36163833098419/
SDNC's kickoff event in Novi MI! The park features a decently sized wooden structure that'll make for some interesting close encounters.
Eye protection of some form is strongly recommended, such as prescription/sunglasses.
Blaster restrictions: Superstock ~approx 150 FPS with USC's/Koosh, but leeway will be considered based on rate of fire/capacity.
Cosmetics: Blasters must appear like toys, unable to be confused for paintball/firearms/etc.
Dart restrictions: Soft impact non-metal darts only. Modified darts discouraged but not banned. FVJ's/FVN's are generally discouraged; please keep them to lower powered blasters.
Hits: Honor system; target player calls hit if felt. Shooter calls hit if visual confirmation seen of the dart stopping/bouncing away on target.
Shields: Generally banned except with certain exceptions (i.e. only carrying low powered single shot blaster.).
Melee: Generally banned unless dicking around.
Richochet: Only hits made from bounced Rival or Vortex ammo count.
Parking and playing location should be obvious. Staging will be at the tree to the left of the playground entrance.
Unfortunately, we do not have good options for backup locations, which will most likely be amongst some of the trees in the park.
- 1-flag CTF
- Hold the Line
- Defend the Core
- Carpe? (If supplies available)
Different design, still just as trivial to short. Me being super lazy, I usually just drop a glob of solder on the board where the wires are soldered in.
I've seen strange variations on Stryfes too. My two orange ones have differing motors; one sounds much quieter than the other and gets some 10-20 FPS less when both are running on shitfires. (I'm in the process of replacing them, don't mind me too much.)
Nice to find that they took out that awful lock though; I'd imagine its a serious boon for any bone-stock nerfers who would never even touch a screwdriver.
Post it up on Facebook too so it's easier to share amongst some groups. Also, what kind of attendance are you expecting? Anyone from CANE? I might make the long haul down there as it's been a while since I've played.
Edit: +1 bailed, I think.
I'll probably end up having to try to create a slightly more official Facebook group for the area. If you don't go there, you won't find anyone for wars.
Summary of removing the AR:
- Increases reliability when firing worn darts.
- Very slight performance increase with stock internals; about 10-15 FPS or so (depending on darts).
- Need to remove locks to allow de-priming, which will disable slam-firing (if available).
- Modern Hasbro Nerf blasters have extremely weak plunger heads; dry firing is even worse now. (Although the plunger heads will wear out over time even if you leave the AR intact.)
The Verdict: Don't do it unless you're familiar with the blaster or need that very little bit of extra performance/reliability. Don't do it if the blaster will be loaned out. (Duh.) I avoided doing so at all to the Strongarm and Hammershot (and similar blasters), since the AR is only present on the plunger and is fairly unintrusive. (Even compared to the ARs used in a breech.)
Note on Smart AR's: They have inferior reliability. Outside of the Triad and Rough Cut, I wouldn't even bother. If your darts are worn or sit in the barrels for a long time, you may have to push them in before/after firing, since air leaks can push them out before they're supposed to which will prevent the dart from firing. The AR is really just a valve to allow or constrict airflow, and if the dart isn't loaded far enough, it won't fire at all.
My main picks for modern Nerf stock/superstock class:
- Sidearm-sized blaster. Strongarm or Hammershot/Sweet Revenge (SR has better handle).
- Magfed sidearm-sized blaster. Retaliator or Champion are good choices.
- Buzz Bee Sentinel. Leave it stock, or drill out the AR/remove the locks/add plunger padding. Removing the AR gives about a 20 FPS boost (depending on darts). This blaster not only replaces the Rapid Fire Tek, but will let you stomp over the kids with expensive mod kits at a mere $17 (or down to $10ish when on sale). Cabelas and Kmart have them, but their availability is supposedly increasing.
- Flywheels: Stryfe or Demolisher, rewire it with a new switch, optionally swap out the motors, and get LiFePo4 batteries or IMR (LiMn) batteries. Do NOT get anything with "fire" in the name. (They will catch on fire.) Demolisher has slightly better stock motors, I believe, but a Stryfe has a large sidearm form factor that's perfect for close quarters gameplay.
Don't really need flywheels either unless your playing circumstances forces you to play a little dirty. (i.e. 6-man teams who are all carrying flywheels and filling the air with darts in confined close quarters where higher performance blasters are unavailable or unallowed.)
Get some darts too, and get them from eBay. Look up Snoop Doggy Doge's guide for the details. The short answer is to get Koosh or USC darts. Koosh are reliable in flywheels but cost 10 cents each. USC's are just under 3 cents apiece now and are very reliable in magfed springers. However, their length is not consistent (about one out of every 10 or 20 darts is too short), so I usually modify the dart pusher of the blaster to accommodate. However, they work well in every other blaster type so I stick with them. Koosh, USC's, and ACC's in general all have comparable accuracy. The only eBay dart with significantly inferior accuracy is the Voberry, which is a hollow-tip dart that's basically a replica of the Elite.
Never buy darts in the store, not even the Buzz Bee nor Elite suctions.
The darts you're looking for are referred to as Voberries, but are found on eBay by searching "nerf dart hole". See this thread for more.
However, these darts have horrendous accuracy. For a dart with similar compatibility and best price, look for what's referred to as USC's. Search "nerf dart sucker" on eBay to find them, or refer to the guide above. (Note that these darts have problems with flywheels unless the dart pusher is modified and/or the suction cups removed.) USC's are several orders of magnitude more accurate than Elites or Voberries. You can get similar results from Koosh and ACC darts as well. (Koosh is well reputed for flywhels too.)
Once I dump out the Ultrafires I have (which at least have PCB protection to lower the likelihood of disaster), I'll be going for LiFePO or nickel chemistry batteries. Not as sure about LiPo since the have similar risks as LiCo *fire batteries and have to be handled carefully.
^ IIRC, the Koosh darts weren't labeled in any particular way, similar to how ACC's are not labeled right now.
Some info that Van forgot:
- Reliability/functionality in various mechanisms (magfed springers, hoppers, etc.)
- Flight performance at medium or high velocities
- Dart fit
I'll add this info in by dart type:
- Works reliably in all stock mags. May require extending the pusher in flywheels. Hopper reliability is somewhat poor (even when trimmed) and requires high powered air blasters to feed. This problem is exacerbated in the cold.
- Thicker dart fit, somewhat under .527 (although works in that barrel as a loose push fit) and works perfect with many stock blasters. (Slightly larger than Elite foam.) Dart head will not work in smaller CPVC barrels.
- Great weight distribution, flies well in low/no wind at 4B velocities. Not as aerodynamic.
- Works most reliably in flywheels. Reliability in magfed springers varies mainly due to dart fit and excess glue. Removing the AR will significantly reduce the likelihood of misfires. Full-length not tested in hoppers, but half length hoppers okay. (Tested with air blasters such as XBZ and 2nd gen 4B.) However, the brushy dimples sometimes get displaced in long barrels, so it's not recommended.
- Thinner dart fit. Foam diameter barely smaller than stock Elites, but the dart head will not work in long barrels smaller than .500.
- Great weight distribution, aerodynamics are better than other darts.
- Reliability varies. Many FVJ's are too short to be seriously reliable in most blasters, and they tend to act up with magfed springers even without the air restrictor in place. For flywheels, the tips can get burned out easily. For hoppers, they require a lot of power to feed (2nd gen 4B), but do so slightly better than USC's.
- Medium dart fit (exception: White FVJ foam is thicker, close to USC thickness.) that works in most CPVC. Fresh FVJ's are very close to stock Elite fit.
- Okay weight distribution, not sure on aerodynamics. While they're certainly not Elites or Voberries, they tumble in mid-flight more than the other darts.
- Good reliability. The squishy dart head might present issues in magfed springers, but I haven't encountered this yet and they currently feed very reliably from initial tests. Sometimes the glue has issues which others have reported. Hoppers well from a few tests, and seems to do better than other darts for feeding through hoppers, but MHA silicone darts still do better. (Again, air blaster is likely required.)
- Thinner dart fit, but still works well in stock blaster barrels.
- Great weight distribution and aerodynamics. Appears to be better than VTN's but more testing is needed to confirm.
- Super-reliable in magfed springers, and feed well in flywheels too. Not suitable for hoppers, which require too much power to be able to use these darts.
- Very close dart fit to stock, but seems to be very slightly thicker (or just ages better).
- Extremely poor weight distribution characteristics, with similar inaccuracy to Elites. Not recommended above 100 FPS.
- Very reliable in magfed springers. Unreliable in hoppers (tested at half length), about as poor as USC's at feeding.
- Medium-thick dart fit; should be same as FVJ but the ones I have seem slightly thicker.
- Great weight distribution and aerodynamics, but very easily thrown off into a circle trajectory by wind.
That's all I have for now. I haven't battle tested many of these under many conditions; the results are mostly from observed testing under controlled situations.
These are typically called Voberries, which has since come to refer to pretty much any eBay/China dart with the hole in the dart head. They have excellent compatibility in many blasters, but also have the worst performance characteristics from more powerful blasters. Alternatively, I recommend knockoff suction darts (search "nerf dart sucker" on eBay) which fly quite well. (Although the suction cuts need to be snipped off for flywheels or long barrels/speedloaders) ACC's and Koosh darts are also good options, but cost a bit more.
Use the word "hole" while searching darts on eBay (i.e. "nerf dart hole") and look for entrees showing "with hole" or "w/ hole". This should get you many colors of the *berry variations. I haven't put this to the test though, so I'm not sure what the final product that arrives is like, but you shouldn't get FVJ's. Check the photos to be sure.
Alternatively, listen to this guy ^. The darts he listed perform far better and fly straighter. Make sure you replace "ebay.ca" to "ebay.com" if you're in the U.S.
Additionally, the following search terms are helpful:
"koosh" for finding Koosh darts. The few sellers who list them have caught onto that.
"sucker" for USC (Universal Suction Clone) darts. These are very cheap and have gotten quite competitive. I highly recommend them over FVJ's.
Unfortunately, ACC darts don't seem to use the correct search helper term.
- Compact: Nitefinder + Hammershot + dart pocket + BAJ
- Medium Firepower: Retaliator + jungle mags (no mag pouches) + Nitefinder + BAJ
- Heavy: 14.8v Stryfe + mag vest
- Superheavy: 4B absolver + 6 shells + 14.8v Stryfe + 6 18 mags (mag pouches + holster for Stryfe) + BAJ
- New: Sentinel + jungle mags + dart pocket + BAJ
- Scenario Games (HvZ, TTT): Hammershot or Strongarm + Jolt + dart pocket
I almost never use loadouts involving mag pouches and holsters due to the inhibition of mobility. It's been an annoyance even in mostly immobile attack/defend type games while defending.
- Unshelled 4B + dart pocket
- Sceptor + dart pocket (indoors only)
- DCIT + dart pocket (CQB indoors only)
I do not recommend AMIORS nor Putty-wrapped darts. Putty-wrapped darts appear to have very poor aerodynamics, and AMIORS disintegrate easily in the heat. (It's bad enough that they get banned from wars as far as I know.) I haven't worked with Rubber Domes, so I don't know how good they are. The silicone darts are probably the best kind MHA makes, but they do seem to have somewhat limited durability/usage life. They perform better than many slugs though, but they require more work to make.
I recommend what the above post mentioned: ACC's and other "China darts" from eBay with a dome shape can be cut down and the results aren't too bad. Shop around eBay and look for those. The generic suction darts (generally referred to as USC's - Universal Suction Clones) are pretty good too; snip the suction cup and the foam, and they should fly at least as well as low quality slugs.
Also important is your geographical location with respect to how much wind there is. In places with more wind (i.e. not SoCal), slugs with #8 washers are recommended, but you need the right foam for them.
Now that enough people have necroed this thread... In 2016, the list of best buys have shuffled a bit. Behold, the Buzz Bee Sentinel! Cheap, NIB, makes for a loaner if the person using it knows how to deal with springers. The 20-dart mags are relatively cheap too, at least by retail standards.
Otherwise, go for that thrifted Retaliator, Strongarm, Stryfe, etc. if you don't want to spend too much money on stock-class loaners.
Edit: Re Aeromech's post: Darts popping out seem to be a problem with any smart AR system: Rough Cut, Triad, and perhaps Double Strike.
There's a mix of NIC and superstock on my channel, but it's formatted more for entertainment than for gameplay study.
I'm trying to get some more NENO, Apoc, and other footage uploaded in the meantime.
5/0 was just strange. I need to get the cosmetic changes to my Sceptor in place, because it would've been perfect for it. If the /0 part was changed to require an away-from-action spawn, I think it would play better, otherwise I should just rush people with an absolver or something.
Bomberman is interesting enough that I'd like to play it again. However, I'd change the mechanics to make it easier for the defending team to muck up the bomb. The way it currently works, the bomberman could be all alone but if you miss the bomb hit, you lose the entire opportunity.
Having a larger playing area would be nice, but that's the only con for this war. We had a lot of moments where we needed more room for teams to push each other around.
Good games. Wish I went earlier but now I know to commit to getting to wars on time. It looks like I missed out on a lot of NIC rounds.
Also, that wedding never happened. Kinda salty about that, since it cut the NIC rounds short.
Will definitely come down for wars in the future. Thanks Xellah for hosting!
Anyway, don't like the host, don't play their game. If some rules aren't cleared up, ASK.
Stock Class: Voberry for compatibility, Koosh for performance. Usually just Koosh.
NIC: #8 slugs with beige foam.
That and the reservoir is all dead space.
Overall, it's a fairly run of the mill water blaster.
- Will we be playing amongst trees, open field, or both?
- Will there be mobstacles? Can we bring our own?
- What are the blaster air tank size/muzzle velocity restrictions?
I've always been primarily a stock-class player and never got too far into modding. I had trouble researching the techniques, hardware, and designs used until I managed to talk to a specific Nerf vet who could answer a very high volume of incessantly annoying n00b questions. After blowing plenty of cash on various projects and McMaster orders, I'm starting to find my home in building. I ended up taking PETG-barreled AT2k's to the OH group's church wars and I've gotten alright at it.
Now I have some NIC-ready blasters almost fully prepped, and some more to work on. I don't have any means nor motivation to even think about bothering with homemade springers, so I'll stick to air blasters. Having built water blasters before this, it's what I know best and what I'm best at. Of course, I'll need to get a chrono and follow a good OPRV design as I go into building them. Right now, I'm not the laziest of modders, but I demand high combat capability improvements for a given unit of time and work put into a mod. (Meaning I find things like bullpup Retaliators to be a complete waste of time.)
Anyway, I'm hoping to get some more games in next year.
Edit: First blasters were a bunch of Mavericks back in '06. I slowly expanded my stock collection after that before getting into modded/NIC class.
Edit: Since I need more war experience, I'll probably just end up coming anyways.
Edit: Any updates? I might drop out if there aren't enough players for a team. It's a long drive to make, and I may not be seeing any friends from ReCoN since they're all busy.