You need to beef up the catch spring with ANY spring upgrade. Get something beefy and chuck it in there. The stock catch plate will hold up to just about anything, I have never seen it break.

 

Edit: I also just realized that I accidentally necro'd this thread. Goes to show how often I use forums now, sorry. :U

This has been three years in the making. I present the Longshot Fleet.

 

 

Two NIC style Longshots. One is 18 KG and the other is 20.5 KG. Both are equipped with metal Worker internals and SCAR barrels. They shoot really fucking far at 180 to 210 fps.

 

 

 

One Superstock / Ultrastock Longshot. This one has the Jet Blasters Omni Kit installed in it and it has an 8 KG OMW spring. It shoots at about 125 to 150 fps.

 

 

 

The next three are HvZ Longshots. They all shoot at about 100 fps for optimal accuracy with Koosh and ACC darts in the stock breech. I chose to stick with the stock breech for feeding reliability. 

 

 

The next four are elite powered Longshots. This can be accomplished by simply removing the air restrictors. 

 

 

The last three are simply bone stock and are meant for awfuls rounds or for future builds. 

 

 

I should say that the only really "safe" melee weapons are Dagorhir spec weapons. They are designed to be used with full force and still not cause the person getting hit any real harm if you're not being completely stupid with them. I do use a Marauder when I go to MANO Wars, but I have permission to use one and that privilege can be taken away at any time should I ever swing with full force. 

 

TL;DR Don't use Nerf official melee weapons unless you can control your swings and people trust you with them. Those can hurt people if used with full force.

 

Put the finishing touches on my indoor / cqb / night time combat longshot. Specifically designed to shoot around 75-85 fps so it doesn't leave welts at close range. 

 

Multi-purpose crossbow. Has both a PVC and CPVC coupler for different barrels. It can shoot stefans, accept inline clips, rocket barrels, just about anything. It only has the stock spring because of superstock legality, but it chucks stefans well enough when I need it to. Right now it's equipped with its superstock front loading barrel and it has an adjustable sling.

I am so ready. Thanks again for setting this all up!

As most people are saying, pick up:

 

- Longshots, color does not matter. They are all the same

 

- Alpha Troopers (only the blue and orange models)

 

- Anything Elite

 

- Repaints of blasters or clear series (sonic too) shells. They are collectible, especially the Gear Up series, Whiteout series, and the Red (Crimson) strike series.

 

- 1995 Kenner Crossbows and any other vintage blasters. There are so many your best bet is to look it up, but notable ones are: Lock N Load, Splitfire, anything SuperTech and SuperMaxx, and more.

 

Who would want to carry around an extra twenty-two pounds of weight in their blaster?

 

I was referring to the spring "strength" rating in KG (which is a rather inherently flawed way of measuring spring "strength" anyways but for some reason nearly the entire NIC does so) not the actual weight of the blaster.

Recon, Raider, Longstrike, and Alpha Trooper springs fit in there really well in conjunction with the main spring for an HvZ style power level. For high performance superstock, I actually recommend the Orange Mod Work spring. The thing is absolutely monstrous as is upwards of 10 KG.

 

I present BOB II; a stock bolted longshot that shoots around 135 feet per second. This thing shoots Koosh darts hard and it's what I'll be using for top tier American superstock games since the flywheel glass ceiling is around 130 fps. I have another sleeper breeched longshot in the works for Australian style.

 

Here's the "Peri" longshot; another superstock model that I've been working on. Only shoots about 90 feet per second, but that's okay because I modded it to be as versatile as possible. It can shoot koosh and elite darts without making them fishtail and the lower fps rating allows it to be used at more wars and HvZ. A big shoutout to my brother Klaiviel for making it possible to own such a beauty.

 

 

Nations Vs Zombies primary is complete

 

Killing Floor commando icon on the stock because yuh 

I saw this on Reddit. At first I thought it was either some kind of prototype or sun damaged, but it could very well be a limited early or late run of this blaster. Hold on to this; it could be worth something someday.

The most accurate blaster you're probably gonna find on the market today is an Apollo or a Zeus. Look into the Rival line; the Zeus is an excellent battle rifle type platform.

 

I don't know why I didn't try this before. Feels great.

Fresh off the workbench. Her name's Kaasi.

 

 

 

Some may argue that it's a waste if you don't replace the plunger tube, but I disagree. I think it takes away from the character of the blaster, and I already have a plusbow. This punches 125 fps with stefans, so I'm happy. I just have a few more minor reinforcements to make and it's done.

Its good in a longshot. I have a roughly 5 kg setup that uses a stock recon and stock longshot spring.

I recommend checking out homemades like the snapbow and stuff. If you want to commission a homemade, look at Mostly Harmless Arms or for someone else that produces them. For stock class, check out the rapidstrike, demolisher, and the stryfe. Even the longshot is still a viable platform and it's spring powered.

No way they'll get close to the crimson strike one. That one was only sold for one day (Black Friday years back).

This is a good point, but it's already selling for ~ $100 on ebay. It won't reach the crimson strike prices simply because there are more of them so you are right, but it looks like this is taking second place for the most valuable longshot model so far.

I honestly can't say; all I know is that they're expensive on eBay. If you find one at a reasonable price, get it. This could be the second coming of the crimson strike longshot in terms of value, but they will most likely restock. At least I hope they do.

I'm resurrecting an old war beast that LouieC3 made back in the day. It really needed to be reborn in a modern setup. It's currently packing a cut down [k26] under the hood and it's completely bonkers even with the stock breech during tests.

 

Pump grip and hybrid cpvc and brass breech is still in the works.

 

 

Use Devcon Plastic Welder. It's seriously the best shit ever and I use it on everything that's load bearing and made out of plastic.

 

If you want to use Bondo to fill in the gaps, that's fine. But treat it like epoxy putty; it's not intended to be a structural adhesive. 

 

Finally finished this thing. It's sporting a metal trigger and a polycarbonate boltsled, and a slew of other mods that I'm too lazy to type out. Literally the only thing that I didn't do to this thing was give it a brass breech.

 

I don't know why, but I'm really proud of this build. Others have made longshots that are far crazier than this one, but I just am. It's about 80% complete and it's the heaviest damn longshot I've ever held with all the shell reinforcements that I've done. It really feels good in hand. I just need to drop an OMW boltsled, plunger, and metal trigger in there. I also need to find a way to cover up / make the epoxy putty look pretty, but that's not as important. 

There's a whole group near Milwaukee. Look for the facebook group "M.A.N.O. Nerf wars and other Shenanigans" and you'll find them.

 

I present the longshot affectionately known as "Webster." That was the name written on its stock when my friend found it at goodwill. He then traded it to me and we both decided to keep the sharpie'd name on it.

 

I still have a lot of shell work to do, but it's definitely 100% functional. 

 

Sticking brass tubing into random shit since 2007 because I can



There's a small stub of 17/32 brass in each barrel so the elite darts don't fall out like in my previous splitfire build. The pump isn't plugged but if I did the darts would just explode or some shit because this is already pretty powerful.



Also, this. Shoots darts with a seal improvement 70 to 100 feet depending on how you angle it.

Post a picture of what you have going on. Then maybe someone can actually tell what's going on.

When are they planning on releasing accessories for blasters, like stocks, sights, etc

$100 bucks is seriously steep for a lnl. I know it's new in box and all but still.

If you monitor ebay you can get them (albeit in varying conditions) for like below $20 bucks. You aren't going to find deals like that overnight but I've managed to find success a few times. Don't pay full price for old blasters, especially nowadays unless you're a collector or something. Even still it's hardly worth paying full price in my opinion.

Holy shit I actually kind of modified something

I just did really simple shit but it works for stock dart wars. I just threw in a small roughly 2.5'' stub of 17/32 brass into the stock barrel, removed the slide and barrel peg, and epoxy puttied a zip tie on. The zip tie is fugly but it's more comfortable than the traditional keyring.

Shoots well enough to get the job done (roughly 40 to 55 feet, I didn't measure) with the normal elite and elite suction darts.





Also, do this. It will save your middle finger.

To be completely honest, painting anything or marking anything on darts is annoying and just isn't worth the effort in my opinion. No matter what, you're going to lose darts. If you really insist on it though I'd use a sharpie. It's what I used to use before and it stays on for a long enough time.

Location: Sherwood Forest
1599 NW 91st Ave, Coral Springs, FL 33071



Day: February 2nd (Saturday - I know that this is kind of a short notice, but these are held frequently.)

Time: 11:30 AM to whenever we get tired

MDDC stands for the Modern Day Dragon Coast. The Dragon Coast is a Dagorhir chapter that operates in South Florida, but we have decided to start hosting nerf wars in addition to our regular Dag games. As such, Dagorhir daggers and other weaponry is allowed but it really isn't used. (Try using a warhammer against a retaliator. That doesn't work.)

Rules:

- No nerf-branded melee weapons. Our melee weapons are safer.

- Because this area in the state isn't yet accustomed to full-blown NIC wars, we will be using lightly modded to stock blasters until we become more established.

- Because of the above rule, I don't want to see any shit cannons or other ridiculous things that could potentially kill small animals. However, if you have a reasonable primary (like a plusbow) that you want to show off, bring it but don't use it. While some members of the MDDC have this equipment, not everyone does yet.

- Don't be a moron. We have the right to eject you from the playing area if you are being a douche bag or are being physically or legally unsafe (like shooting pedestrians).

- Blasters MUST have an orange tip at all times. No blasters may be painted all black or be entirely camouflaged.

- Bring water. If you are going to this, you probably live in Florida and already know this. You may also want to bring a bagged lunch.

- Stock ammo is preferred. If you really want to shoot stefans, make sure the thing isn't NIC war worthy. We are using mostly stock and lightly modded equipment, so let's keep this fair.

- EYE PROTECTION IS MANDATORY.









See you guys on the field.

3d-printed pistol made by my brother Klaiviel and originally designed by Landru. It works just like a nitefinder and it's quite powerful to boot. It shoots stock darts, with elite darts being the best.

Link to thingiverse page: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16726

I got my gear ready and I'm ready to rock. Klaiviel, your hiatus has been too long. Really happy to hear that you're coming out with us.

Mass Effect.

In mine, I found out that the orange ring on the back of the plunger tube had popped off and that it was interfering with the catch. Check out that ring on yours, and see if it popped off / came loose. Mine wasn't glued on at all.

Through an experimental modification (the modification is not useful, but it is amusing), I found that my blaster (longshot, specifically) had trouble using drums and other heavier mags when that breech nose was removed.

I'm not sure if the Alpha Trooper would experience difficulties with drums or other mags with that removed, but I thought that this was worth mentioning.

I ONLY use this stuff:



Of course, you can use a different brand, but you must make sure that it is silicone grease. Anything else can be potentially bad for the plastic and rubber parts (most notably petroleum-based lubricants) that make up your blaster. Try to wash the lithium grease out, replace the rubber seal, and try again with the proper lubricant.

No no no, you're doing it wrong. When I see a spider, I use my daddy's sig sauer. There's absolutely nothing left afterwards!

... No, seriously, don't do that. But really, even when that recon is modified, does it really kill the spider, or does it just launch it somewhere? The last time I shot an insect with a streamline, it just flew across the room. Just use a vacuum cleaner like everyone else to kill spiders.

I'm still rocking my old singled longshot. While it only shoots around 70 feet, it's the most accurate and reliable blaster that I own. I occasionally use my plusbow or my snap when I need more firepower (or even dual wield speed-loaded nitefinders), but I always seem to find myself going back to that longshot.