Vintage's Content

#117967 Minneapolis I-35w Bridge

Posted by Vintage on 02 August 2007 - 12:15 AM in Off Topic

I live in Plymouth, MN but my girlfriend's grandparents live in Duluth, fairly close to the bridge. I just traveled that bridge a week ago. Kinda eerie I guess.

#117862 Is This Possible?

Posted by Vintage on 01 August 2007 - 09:00 AM in Modifications

CPS stands for "Constant Pressure System". Any Super Soaker that has it will proudly state "CPS" on the side of the gun.

Posted Image

The CPS bladder WILL work with the magstrike if it is attached properly. I just don't know if it will help any.

*Edit
As to what I recommended earlier:

An alternative to replacing the magstrike air bladder would be to purchase a bicycle tire innertube. Cut a few sections of innertube to match the length of the magstrike bladder. Slide the tube sections over the magstrike bladder. I don't own a magstrike though, so I am not sure if a bicycle tire innertube fits well over the bladder. If it works, it will increase the pressure of each shot.

*Double Edit
I just realized that you said "future magstike" as in you don't own one yet. You probably don't know how it works then. It has a CPS bladder inside the "stock":
Posted Image

Basically, it's a rubber tube that expands like a balloon when it fills with air. This gives consistent pressure for every shot.

#117860 Is This Possible?

Posted by Vintage on 01 August 2007 - 08:45 AM in Modifications

Do you mean to use the CPS part of the Super Soaker? Because if you use the water reservoir tank, you won't get constant pressure for each shot. You COULD use the CPS bladder of the Super Soaker, but I don't know if it gives any significant pressure increase. If you feel ambitious, try it, but you might risk losing performance. I would recommend banding or tire innertubing the original bladder.

Also, try to find an alternative for hot glue when working with pressurized tanks. I have heard that if you put an obscene amount of hot glue at a connection, it might work, but I SERIOUSLY don't recommend it.

Try using Plumber's Goop,
Posted Image

Epoxy,

or Super Glue.
Posted Image

#116178 Laser Tek Dart Basters

Posted by Vintage on 17 July 2007 - 02:54 PM in Modifications

The handles do look uncomfortable.....
Out of curiosity, how much did they end up costing? Oh, I think your NF paintjob is sweet!

#116117 Barrel Lengths?

Posted by Vintage on 17 July 2007 - 08:58 AM in Modifications

For an air-pressure gun, you would want the dart to achieve maximum velocity right at the end of the barrel.

This is not when the pressure behind the dart equals the pressure outside the barrel, but when the pressure behind the dart creates a force that equals the friction between the dart and barrel. This would be at the terminal velocity of the dart for that gun at that pressure.

With some basic knowledge of physics, you can measure the kinetic friction, but figuring out the point where the pressure equals that friction is harder, especially since the pressure is not completely consistent throughout the tank and barrel (due to the valve airflow, etc.).

Like what has been said earlier, you may just want to try different size barrels with a temporary bond such as hot glue.

#49929 Rf20 Mod

Posted by Vintage on 17 March 2005 - 11:10 PM in Modifications

Thirst did not do this on an RF20. It may have been his at2k. My last question is this: Since the barrel assembly is connected to the piston, does the whole setup (including hopper) throb back and forth? Thanks for your time, because this is actually pretty interesting.

~Vintage

#49927 Rf20 Mod

Posted by Vintage on 17 March 2005 - 10:49 PM in Modifications

I still don't understand the basics of the design. How does the shotgun dart fall down the vertical pipe, turn 90 degrees, and stuff itself into the crayola barrel?

Sorry, but it seems impossible to me. I know THIRST originally thought up the design, but it didn't make sense to me then either.

~Vintage

#49922 Rf20 Mod

Posted by Vintage on 17 March 2005 - 10:23 PM in Modifications

Have you actually completed this, or are you still in a concept phase?

~Vintage

#49918 If You Could Ask Hasrbo

Posted by Vintage on 17 March 2005 - 10:10 PM in General Nerf

Talio, I would recommend that Hasbro make a gun with a feed similar to the pc, but a springer, with one shot per cock. Also, it would be great if the darts were not staggered in the barrel, allowing for a stronger mod.

~Vintage

#49006 A Site Dedicated To Homemade Nerf Weapons

Posted by Vintage on 08 March 2005 - 08:41 AM in Homemades

Bolt, even though NH and NHQ already have homemade sections, I would welcome a dedicated site. OpenNerf didn't last long, but it still gave me many ideas, some of which I am still working on. I had hoped that site would last, so maybe this is a good alternative.

I'm in.

~Vintage

#47918 College!

Posted by Vintage on 24 February 2005 - 08:29 AM in Off Topic

At the same time? That's insane if you are. But then I also know a guy who is fulfilling four different bachelor degrees in a total of six years.

#47899 College!

Posted by Vintage on 23 February 2005 - 10:58 PM in Off Topic

As do all engineering majors.... I plan to major in electrical engineering. What is your engineering degree, Zero?

~Vintage

#46115 Nerf Ammunition

Posted by Vintage on 13 January 2005 - 10:13 PM in General Nerf

Both the first and second options are the same arrow.
Option 3 just has a cap that buzzes as it flies through the air.

The "clip" they are referring to is probably the accessory to the BnA that adds storage space for two more arrows. The BnA has room for two additional arrows, but with the clip accessory, you can hold four additional. I myself have the clip and assume that is what they refer to.

Go with option 3 which is the best deal.

~Vintage

#45658 Maverick Locations

Posted by Vintage on 07 January 2005 - 09:31 PM in General Nerf

Minneapolis Targets have the Maverick. Therefore, so do I.

Sweet. I didn't even think to look. Thanks Janga!

~Vintage

#45650 Bolt Action Rifle Ideas

Posted by Vintage on 07 January 2005 - 09:15 PM in Homemades

Pvc and Brass don't seal too well with each other. You will need an o-ring at the rear of the bolt.

Other than that, you will also need to make sure that your bolt does not catch the dart above the breeched one. You could do that by rounding the rears of each dart a little.

~Vintage

#45534 Nerf World Order

Posted by Vintage on 06 January 2005 - 01:19 AM in News

Cxwq, I look forward to this next stage in your site. Hope you will get to relax more after the new system is put in motion.

To all the others here, it's tough to design a karma system, register new users and monitor the board at once. I think it's great that Vacc is stepping up to the plate to help Cx out here.

We don't need scouting because it's not up to us to find the right guys for this forum. The right guys should come to us. The new karma system should effectively root out the wrong ones.

Good luck on your code-writing, Cxwq.

~Vintage

#45206 Crayola Barrels

Posted by Vintage on 31 December 2004 - 08:59 AM in Modifications

Last Man Standing, we understand that your darts are thick. You said that 1/2" pvc works best for you. That's great, but most of the darts we all make are much too loose in pvc, so we need a tighter barrel material.

Not only are crayola barrels the right size for our darts, but they also fit inside pvc for added accuracy.

As for using crayola barrels in a missile launcher, you will need to glue the crayola barrel onto the air nozzle. Load a dart, and slide a 12-16" section of pvc over the barrel. That is the easiest way to breech load a crayola on a strong shooter.

For ball guns, crayolas don't usually work. Some ball guns use physical impact to launch the ball (Motorized ballzooka, Cyclotron), while others don't produce enough compressed air quickly (Ballzooka, Pulsator).

~Vintage

#45044 Crayola Barrels

Posted by Vintage on 29 December 2004 - 01:18 AM in Modifications

I would recommend using RoseArt brand markers. They are cheaper ($0.80 for a box of 10 at Target) and usually are more smooth on the inside.

If you use markers, you will want to overlap each marker with pvc. The markers themselves will not have great accuracy unless you add the pvc to stabilize the dart.

~Vintage

#44512 Your Mission, If You Choose To Accept It.

Posted by Vintage on 22 December 2004 - 11:02 AM in Homemades

Fredstickman, clips do nothing more than push darts upwards. In order for it to be useable on a gun, you need either the clip to be airtight, or for the darts to be pushed into an airtight chamber (like you and I both had mentioned). The latter option gives the dart the most force behind it, but is fairly difficult to design.

Pez dispensers are not airtight, but you could goop them to make them so. Their "head" wouldn't be a good method of pushing the darts into a chamber, because they don't push the candy all the way out in the first place.

So...you need to scrap the head completely, make extremely tiny darts, and design a way for each dart to make it into a firing chamber. I might take the challenge, just for fun, but it would mean going out to the hobby shop for extra sizes of brass for the smaller darts.

~Vintage

#44365 Your Mission, If You Choose To Accept It.

Posted by Vintage on 20 December 2004 - 09:49 AM in Homemades

I am not sure whether making a clip is what makes a semi/full-auto. We need a way for each shot to be sealed in the barrel, otherwise you need the whole clip to be airtight like the RSCB barrel. Working with a PEZ dispenser would be cool if you are ok with really small darts.

Obviously, small darts require less air pressure to travel far, but I would guess that we would want our darts longer than 1" for accuracy's sake. Perhaps two PEZ dispensers side by side would increase the dart length to 2".

So now, we need to find either a way for the clip to be airtight, or for a piston to seal each dart into the barrel for each shot. Or you could do Ompa's thing, and just scrap the springs for your own design.

~Vintage

#42310 Semi-auto 2k Prototype-its A Start

Posted by Vintage on 23 November 2004 - 10:27 PM in Modifications

Yes we could, but a pvc airtank does not keep a constant pressure when shots are fired.

Rubber bladders continue to exert a constant pressure at all times regardless of how much air is filling the tank.

To use PVC, you would need a regulator, which seem to be fairly cheap now.

~Vintage

#42191 Urgent X-bow Help

Posted by Vintage on 21 November 2004 - 11:06 PM in Modifications

Or, you could do it the fun way...

1. Take 1.5" of pvc and glue 2" of 17/32 brass in it. (You will need to wrap the brass in electrical tape to make it fit snug.)

2. Goop the pvc onto the plunger tube (Flat end, not the end with the brass sticking out).

3. Goop the coupler over the brass end.

Now for the barrel:
Glue 10" of 9/16 brass in a 12" section of pvc. (Again, wrap the brass in electrical tape)

Let Dry!!!!

Load the dart in the brass inside the coupler. Slide the long barrel into the coupler so it slides over the inside brass. Fire!

Just to make this clear, this design is based off of Cxwq's maxshot barrel.

~Vintage

#41964 Prank Ideas

Posted by Vintage on 18 November 2004 - 12:34 AM in Off Topic

Hang a pickle from the rear-view mirror.

~Vintage

#41963 Instead Of A Breech

Posted by Vintage on 18 November 2004 - 12:29 AM in Homemades

Sorry for replying in an old topic, but this is how I would make a shotgun break action breech.

The clothespin would hold the metal loop so the barrel would stay sealed.

~Vintage

#41961 Regulators

Posted by Vintage on 18 November 2004 - 12:04 AM in Homemades

Langley, what did you mean when you said that they no longer carry the $7 regulators?

Earl, that is a neat backpack. How much PSI can it hold? I heard that wider PVC holds much less pressure than small diameter PVC.

GeneralPrimevil, are you saying that the airflow is too high to use it without a secondary valve? My diagram only has a main firing valve, but another secondary could be added between the regulator and the main valve.

I was hoping to get as close to "pull one trigger for each shot" style weaponry. Opening and shutting another valve would take more time between shots.

~Vintage

#41862 Regulators

Posted by Vintage on 17 November 2004 - 01:49 AM in Homemades

Actually, if the flow rate is slow, it will be better for me. The regulator will be placed before the main firing valve. It will fill up the main tank with the same pressure for each shot.

Posted Image

All the basics right there. All that is missing is the high pressure backpack, and a handle grip.

So, Cxwq, do you think it is a decent regulator for the cheap price?

~Vintage

#41861 Semi-auto 2k Prototype-its A Start

Posted by Vintage on 17 November 2004 - 01:26 AM in Modifications

What you need:

1/4" vinyl tubing (I think. The size that come with the RF20. Using the RF20 tubing works as well)
Plumber's Goop
RF20 Bladder + bladder connection intact
3/4" Hose clamp
Electrical tape
Drill + 1/4" drill bit
Hacksaw

Directions:

1. Open up the case (you will need to pop off the pump cap) and cut the tubing in there.
2. When you cut the tubing from the pump, make sure not to damage the connection.
3. Hacksaw (dremel) out the back of the gun's shell to make room for the bladder to stick out.
3. Saw off the liquitron gauge at the airtank. (where the orange meets the white section)
4. Use the drill to enlarge the airtank's pump connection.
5. Plumber's goop about 12" of tubing to the airtank's enlarged connection.
6. Plumber's goop the other end to the RF20 bladder.
7. Goop about 1.5" of vinyl tubing over the pump connector.
8. Goop the other end to the other bladder hook-up.
9. When the goop is dry, crimp the 12" tube section twice ("Z" shape) and secure it with tape.
10. Tighten the clamp around the bladder at the front. (leave the plastic back-end clamp on, just clamp the front-end.)
11. Put the gun back together with the bladder sticking out the hole in the back of the shell.

Suggestions:

Use alot of goop if you want to reinforce the bladder for more power.
Use a tight-fitting short barrel setup. (Cpvc, Crayola, brass)
Secure the bladder as it hangs out the rear. It won't stick straight out unless you secure it there somehow.

I should be able to get pics up tomorrow after work.

~Vintage

#41760 Regulators

Posted by Vintage on 16 November 2004 - 02:28 PM in Homemades

It's been my dream to make a homemade nerf repeater. I was cruising Ebay for regulators, and stumbled upon one for $7. The listing advertised the distributor's website, and sure enough, it was there for $8. Here is the site:
http://www.marketwor...6578&i=16010774

What do you guys think? Seems extremely useful for my purposes, with a built-in gauge for monitoring the pressure. The only thing I am unsure of is the maximum pressure output. However, I don't think Nerf ever reaches 100 PSI, so it should be fine.

~Vintage

#41555 First Homemade

Posted by Vintage on 12 November 2004 - 10:48 PM in Homemades

First off, Ompa, nice work.
I think I know the reasons you are getting bad ranges.

1. You have a front trigger nozzle (bad airflow)
2. How long is the actual barrel? It might not be long enough to build up momentum with the slower moving air.

With that small airtank, you desperately need to let the air out fast. Even if you leave the ball valve open, the air escapes too slowly to make a good range.

My recommendation? Try a more efficient homemade, and use that sexy breech on it. Kudos,
~Vintage

Edit:
This is my second homemade P90 with a front trigger nozzle. It sucks. Even at 80 PSI, it only gets 40 feet. In a short while, I will post my first homemade with my new valve. The prototype is already done, it just isn't a pretty design...yet.
Posted Image

It's horrible, even if I let all the air out at once.

#38194 Semi Auto

Posted by Vintage on 03 October 2004 - 08:02 AM in Homemades

Over on NHQ, I posted plans to make a semi-auto P90. It was a large airtank with two hose nozzles to regulate the shots. I finished it, using a cheap hose nozzle for the regulation, and a nicer front trigger nozzle for the trigger.

It sucked. The reason? Due to its design, the trigger nozzle released it's air extremely slowly. I only got about 60 feet with the thing....angled.

Point of this post? Not all hose nozzles release air fast. That is why I am on an endeavor to make a high-flow valve for cheap. You can find the prototype here:
Zero Valve Adaption

So far, it has worked like a charm, but you need a strong seal between the gasket and washer. That means using a spring that is tough enough to make that seal, but loose enough to pull back without too much difficulty.

~Vintage

#37675 Semi Auto Sniper Rifle

Posted by Vintage on 23 September 2004 - 09:09 AM in Modifications

I can imagine the reactions of Hasbro officials reading our Titan threads. ^_^

Maybe they made the gun this strong just to see our reactions.

Now, concerning the "semi-auto loser":
You will need a shorter barrel and a loose dart fit. Reason being that the pressure might not be as strong as a standalone Titan. It will also take twice the amount of pumps. Filling that bladder will take the extra effort.

~Vintage

#37593 Semi Auto Sniper Rifle

Posted by Vintage on 21 September 2004 - 11:01 PM in Modifications

It won't get many shots at all. The titan airtank is so big, that most of the air in the bladder would be wasted in the first shot. Unless you have a massive bladder assembly, it would be a waste.

~Vintage

#37494 Porn?

Posted by Vintage on 19 September 2004 - 04:16 PM in Off Topic

Crazy Christian Church on main street, around 10:00 am.

Yes, it's a joke.

~Vintage

#37438 Best Airsoft Pistol?

Posted by Vintage on 18 September 2004 - 12:00 PM in Off Topic

I haven't used an S&W airsoft gun before. I am guessing it is KWC or KSC brand, so it probably is good. Remember, when a site is advertising a gun that shoots both .12 and .2 bb's, the FPS listed is usually the speed of .12's. .12's shoot faster, but lack mass to keep them flying straight and far.

Most KWC guns are around 260 FPS with .2's. That is very good speed for a .2 shooting springer pistol. I think Tokyo Marui's hit 280 FPS for their springers with .2 gram bbs. If that S&W gun is KWC, you are fine.

Edit: FPS really does not mean anything. Everything hinges on the company that makes the gun. Anything by TM or KWC is excellent material. The first section of this topic tells about each of the major airsoft companies. I would make your decision based on that.

~Vintage

#37430 Best Airsoft Pistol?

Posted by Vintage on 18 September 2004 - 09:58 AM in Off Topic

No, Walther is not a very good Airsoft company. Sorry about the link, but it seems the URL for the guns at ShortyUSA never changes. Go here, click "Spring Guns" on the top, scroll down and choose page 2.

The clear version is the second one on that page. It isn't really a "Berreta", it's a Taurus PT92 which is almost identical. It uses white bbs like most of the KWC and KSC brands. They are stronger guns and better accuracy than most on the market. I think only $35 Tokyo Marui pistols compare in quality.

~Vintage

#37340 Best Airsoft Pistol?

Posted by Vintage on 16 September 2004 - 10:46 PM in Off Topic

Anything by KWC is great. Here is a clear Berreta that is perfect for what you want. It uses .2 gram bbs, and it is high quality.

~Vintage

#37235 Lightning Blitz

Posted by Vintage on 15 September 2004 - 09:47 AM in Modifications

Great job mayhem! I like your drawings as well. You have good talent in both areas.

Is the LB better than stock? Or is the CPVC not good for it?

~Vintage

#37108 Best Way To Cut Brass Barrels?

Posted by Vintage on 13 September 2004 - 10:57 AM in Modifications

I just use a hacksaw. It makes the edge a little rough, but sandpaper does the trick. The good thing about the hacksaw, is that it doesn't warp the end like pipe cutters. The bad thing about the hacksaw is that it is harder to make a straight cut.

If you want to use a pipe cutter, use a pocket knife and shave off the inside of the lip. That will take care of the indentation at the end.

~Vintage

#37012 Helix Barrel

Posted by Vintage on 12 September 2004 - 12:08 PM in Homemades

Most air guns work best with ported barrels. Most people know this, and if they invest the time, use them. For my stronger air guns (at2k, blastbazooka) I use ported copper over brass, or ported PVC over brass. 1/2" copper fits perfectly over 9/16 brass, so it is a good choice for the job. Only problem is that it adds weight which needs support.

~Vintage

#36956 The Art Of Swift

Posted by Vintage on 11 September 2004 - 10:17 PM in Modifications

That is pretty neat! What did Swift use to make those shapes? Sissors?
Are there 2 or 3 fins per arrow?

~Vintage

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