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There have been 246 items by lionhead333 (Search limited from 25-November 93)
Doesn't help that he flipped out when I semi-permanently dyed my hair red, either.
I almost forgot one of the most hilarious moments of the day: Finding a "googly eye" dart after the final dart sweep. It pretty much made my day.
I made those for a while as a joke. Glad you liked it.
So, Squishy, did you hit anyone from your 'vantage point' by the portable?
The sad thing? It was the second thing that made me really want to post; I thought of the first afterwards. A dork is me...
PS: I Win, though.
What I don't think you realize is that the original definition of 'dork' is a whale's penis.
Anyway, can we let this die? Bomberman already found his own answer; this thread is now pointless.
The second one seems new, but I don't think it'll come to much- though it does use darts.
Here are 3 springs. From left to right are the 54, a stock nitefinder spring, and the original SSII spring.
I'd say the SS spring is around 4 inches. The nitefinder is around 3 1/4.
I don't have exact power stats, the the SS spring is harder to compress.
Hope that helped.
Assuming it isn't the third or the tenth. Otherwise, I'll be one of the first ones there. Again.
I want to be in the video this time.
Edit: My sister said she and her friend would come (They think you guys are hot). They'll probably weasle out again. I'll probably bring a friend.
While it might save a lot of bandwidth through the older users, the older users rarely have simple questions. The noobs are going to clog up the forums either way.
Frost- Yes, but I've had bad luck with nerf guns. Both of my magstrikes had factory defects, every blaster I get off ebay is in much worse shape than described, and this just had superglue everywhere. I melted it off, but I'm sure it didn't help ranges.
Sharp Shooter II
1/8” drill bit
~2” of ½” PVC
8” of ½” cpvc
Open up the blaster. The internals are pretty strait forward. The green slider moves the small black bar, which blocks one barrel and opens the other. This is a near post-picture of the mod, but before the only difference was crayola barrels.
The first thing I did was replace the barrels. I cut my cpvc a bit longer than the white tubes, although you’ll probably want about 4” barrels.
Glue those in.
I don’t have a picture of this next step, because I didn’t really think it was important, but I believe that it is. Take the white tubes with the barrels, and widen the holes at the back with your drill bit. Then take the barrel selector, and widen the holes that lead to the barrels. Be sure not to hit the selector piece itself, or make the hole so wide that the barrel selector doesn’t make a seal.
Now let’s take a look at the spring. It’s all right, but I’d like more power out of it. I eventually put an Ace #54 spring (the same as a 49, but labeled differently) on the plunger rod. Here are 3 springs. From left to right are the 54, a stock nitefinder spring, and the original SSII spring.
Now, however, the power is wasted. So get out your teflon tape and wrap it around the plunger head. After I had mine wrapped, I took the tip of my glue gun and melted the end of the tape, so it won’t come unraveled.
Put everything back together.
When it’s closed, take your ½” PVC, and dremel out the ID until it slides over your barrels. Using the PIPE CUTTER (for a much cleaner, even cut) cut the PVC into 2 1” sections. Slide them over the barrels, and glue them down. This keeps the barrels more or less straight. I wasn’t quick enough with the bottom barrel.
The top barrel averages 36 feet, and the lower gets 41 feet. Not magical, but better than the 15 or so that I was getting.
This has been an Aslan Arms production.
Questions? Comments? Flames?
And yeah, the 2k has incredible power for it's size, but I've been around them for ages, and I'm aware of what they can do.
OATN- Until I thought of my variation to the absolver, I did too. Overly powerful, banned from many wars, bulky, huge reload times, and difficult to aim. Once I realized that I could shotgun load my 4 barrels, and put up a wall of darts, it's become one of my favorite primaries. Only with backup integrations, though.
Hierarchy- In my search for a trigger system, I considered this. I, however, am terrible at making my own mechanics. I tend to screw up even simple mechanisms, which is why I stay away from homemades.
EDIT: Oh, hey, I fixed the pictures. Cool.
Something to cut with
40 lb fishing line
Titan with Absolver mod (or similar)
Upon opening my titan, I found that the vinyl tubing to my pressure gauge looked like this
Instead of this (Which we also end up removing)
So, in addition to removing the stuff around our integration point (the bottom handle) I went about cutting off the gauge as well.
Use whatever you like to cut, and cut the vinyl tubing between the check valve for the hornet, and the pressure gauge. After you cut the pressure gauge, unscrew the white cap holding the tubing. This allows you to pull it out.
Take your epoxy and goop over the holes you've just made. This is what mine looked like right after I epoxied.
After this, I tore out anything related to the Scout, as I don't have one, and the rest of the hornet parts (like the trigger) as it is now pointless.
All in all, remove this stuff.
It's not necessary, but I completed the hole that the pressure gauge was resting in.
Now we dremel out the bottom handle. Make it look like this,
and don't forget to dremel out the front to allow the pump tube to poke through.
I don't have any more open pictures of the blaster, but place your 2k internals in the shell, pump in the clean dremeled space, air tank and liquitron hanging out. If you didn't notice the dremeled holes for the 2k's tubing in the other picture, dremel holes for it through the bottom of the titan's handle. Glue the pump tube in place. Close up the titan.
Glue the barrel of the 2k to the bottom of the squarish jut on the front handle. Because the vinyl tubing is trying to expand, your barrel will point upwards. I used 2 zip ties to fix this- one on the tubing, one on the barrel.
Lastly, the trigger system. Take your fishing line and cut about a foot off. Lace it through the spring on the firing pin, and tie it off. Cut about an inch of your straw, and thread the line through it. Glue the straw to the side of the titan's handle. This will keep it in place while you run. Tie the rest of the line around your key ring, and cut off the excess.
You're done! I would only keep about 4 pumps in the airtech, like any other. As for the titan, I didn't plug the overpressure valve, so I just pump until it kicks in.
Ranges are typical. The 4 shot titan gets around 80', and the airtech about 110'.
This was my first integration, and while it's not very clean, I'm proud of it. This has been an Aslan Arms production.
Questions? Comments? Flames?
Yeah, Nite-mavs are awesome, but a lot of work. With your history, I don't think you'd pull it off. No offence.
I think it'd be both easier and wield better results to use an air-gun, like an At2k. More range, less work.
If you must do something, go with air.
My dual Disk Shots- one minimized
And of course, my kittehs.
I have the same problem on my SM1500. I'll see what I can do with that, since it's almost just like the AT2K, and DTReaper's fix would apply the same way.
This got me thinking of DTReaper's thread here. I figured that the airtanks may be slightly similar (despite the opposite trigger setups). I cut the airtank apart, and couldn't find the issue. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
I'd appreciate the help.
I made a video of the basic function of the airtank-
1.) Air from the first pump blows the small rod forward, to seal off the barrel.
2.) Other pumps pressurize the airtank.
3.) The trigger somehow draws the rod from step 1 back, allowing air out the barrel.
The video is here. If this doesn't work for you, you can copy and paste this to your address bar: www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xqarjsWR2g
EDIT: The video is now hosted on YouTube.
To change your machine ID you have to either answer "yes" to "do you want to change the advanced options?" or edit the appropriate client.cfg file section.machineid=1is in that file. Just set one of the copies tomachineid=2then restart that copy of the client
Machine ID wasn't under my advanced options. I opened the CFG file under notepad, and changed the 1 to a 2.
I hit save, and it told me 'Cannot create the C:/Program Files/Folding@Home/client.cfg file- make sure that the path and file name are correct.'
What do I do about that?
For those with Dual Core processors do keep in mind that you can either install the SMP client, or if you can't get that to work you can install two copies of the single core client in two separate folders and run both at the same time as services. This will utilize the whole processor rather than just half of it. And for some hardware configurations it will even net a higher points-per-day average than a single install of the SMP client.
I don't do a whole lot with my computer. I'm trying to get a copy of F@H on both of my cores, but I'm not sure how to change my machine ID. How does that work?