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There have been 58 items by foamsmith (Search limited from 22-October 93)
I'll just leave it at this. I've done similiar things to a couple of my modded Nerf spring pistols, and have not had any touble whatsoever in caulking them.
Your hand should catch on the lip of the endcap, easily keeping it from sliding off.
Take it or leave it, but I've got a small suggestion. Replace the 1/16" aluminum handle on the caulking mechanism with a cpvc end cap, or properly trimmed cpvc coupler. This could be painted as well.
I think that's usually true, but I also think it's plenty possible to build darts so that the weight does not move around inside by making sure the weight is totally surrounded in hot glue, and the whole you burned is totally filled with hot glue. Don't you?
I can totally believe that someone who's not used to making stefans only has 4 straight and centered darts out of 80. The problem is that by the time you've identified those 4, they're no longer perfect. You see, every time you shoot a stefan out of a relatively high-powered gun the weight flies around inside the dart on launch and impact and changes the balance. Essentially, a dart never flies the same twice.
I have found 40 out of 80 darts that are pretty accurate but only 4 darts that are 100 percent accurate.
Forsaken_angel24, no stefans, fired from conventional modded or stock barrels, are 100% accurate.
What's Irrigation Pipe Insulation foam?
I was thinking of using Irrigation Pipe Insulation foam, but I don't know what to put on the end.
Also: What type of weight should I use, and where should I place it?
Should I put on fins?
I know this is alot of questions, but help would be greatly appreciated.
I make 'em like this:
Buy from Ace Hardware the ITP (aka Tundra) foam pipe insulation that fits 1&1/4" copper.
Experiment with desired weight and length, but definately use fins. I use 2mm and 3mm craft foam sheet glued together to make a 5mm foam sheet for the fins, which closely resembles the stock missiles. Angle the fins slightly so the missiles spins in flight.
You can either use really large fbr (like 2") or some smaller type of foam pipe insulation to seal the front of the missile. Add tape as needed.
Thank you. that's 1&1/2" pvc.
Frank, how did anyone find each other with 800' away bases? Anyways, I like the stock. Is that 1" PVC you used??
I also like the stock. What's on the end? I have some spare 1" and 3/4" PVC so I think I'll incorporate that into my sm1500.
The end is just a custom cut block of wood, wrapped in blue tape.
EDIT: It's probably leaking from the rear of the air tank, where the firing piston enters. I think I've had that happen on one of my titans. If that's the case, definately add some lubricant.
Cons: More time. If it's not done perfect, your darts won't be as accurate.
Cut them up perfectly straight. Make sure you build some sort of template for this.
Pros: More accurate darts
Cons: more time
Burn a hole in the back of your darts, if they're going to be primarily fired from air guns.
Pros: The dart creates a better seal inside the barrel when it's being fired. It also makes a slightly more aerodynamic dart during flight. Both result in farther shooting darts.
Cons: More time. Darts don't perform quite as well in spring powered guns.
Gun held 5' off ground, with good fitting stefans. All shots averaged and rounded to nearest foot.
Can't do ranges yet because I need to make some more stefans. I'll post some up soon.
Flat = 39'
Angled = 71'
Stock clip from same gun...
Flat = 45'
Angled = 75'
Not quite sure why the PETG barrels came up slightly short.
One of our primary regulations deals with the kinetic energy density of a projectile that is fired using stored energy (like that of a spring or air). The kinetic energy density is equal to:
KED=(0.5 m v^2)/A
where m is the mass of the projectile, v is the initial velocity and A is the impact area of the projectile. We have to assure that all of our blasters meet a certain value or less for KED.
We can shoot the Titan missle so much further than regular darts because the impact area (ie the dart tip) is so much greater.
Does that formula take into acount the nature of the area on the tip of a dart? It seems it should, since darts have varying degrees of absorbent levels. If you had an ultra absorbent dart, shouldn't you be able to shoot it much faster without violating regulations? Or do regualtions not even take this into account?
The only reason I brought it up was because in the last picture, the top chain row looks like the ID of the cpvc barrels has been drilled out, or something.
That last of the CPVC in the chain does indeed show shorter sections of CPVC, those are probably 2-1.5 inch sections. After cutting 200 sections of CPVC at 12:00 at night, you get tired of cutting, thus making some CPVC sections shorter than others. But, the length doesn't affect performance.
Is it more prone to jamming with the extra weight of the cpvc, or does the box completely fix that? What happens to the chain once it leaves the gun? Does it drop off or sink to the floor? That last picture looks like you either used some shorter pieces of cpvc than 2.5", or you drilled out your cpvc to make the ID bigger. Is any of that true?
That's all for now. I like how the removable box adds portability. Good work.
I'll tell you a few reasons why that didn't work out so good for me:
i dont have a pc and i doubt i will ever but just thinking about the clip. an easier way to make one could be to get a thick slab of light weight wood, dont say there is no such thing because i have some, and drill hols in it large enough to hold your barrel material (say cpvc) and glue the short lengths of cpvc inside the drilled out holes then work the outside so that it fits in the pc.
1. too heavy
2. couldn't stop the wood from spliting because of how big the of holes I had to drill
3. bloody fingers from an occasional wild spinning clip.
4. didn't trust my abilities to drill straight down for all ten barrels
With softer wood though I'm sure it could be done.
That sounds like my kind of party! What do you mean by banding the clip? Counteracting gravity?
Spoon and I played around with the idea of banding the clip to offset the extra weight during our marathon PC hacking party. Our extra weight was due to brass inserts in a stock clip, but it should be more or less the same thing.
So there's nothing I can do?
You've got a shot rubber gasket (check valve). If the rubber piece (check valve) at the back of the tube still looks to be in place, try spraying some silcone spray down there. It's fixed more than one bad pump (check valve) for me.
THIRST, It's glued together with good ol' Elmer's glue, and the PETG barrels are attached in the back with epoxy, for an airtight seal.
Bishop and Ash, that plastic sheet idea seems like a better way to go. I'm sure it would be lighter which would help. Anyone one know where you can get this stuff? I think I recall hearing of some clear (maybe PETG) plastic sheet at sometime or another, and that would be neato having a clear clip with clear barrels.
oh and Langely... don't think anyone still thinks that the PC will be rereleased, at least this year.
I'm not talking about the whole republican party throughout history, but rather the 3 rupublican on NH. No offense intended, I'm not a strong advocate of any political party.Yeah, dude? The South lost.
Don't press us too hard, we have yet to start a rebellion.
MysticNinja, the stuff is at homedepot, sold in 4X8' pieces. It's about 1/8" thick. I don't know what it's called. I orginally used it for the back of some book shelves. There are two blocks of normal wood in the clip, as you can see in the first picture.
Thanks man. Yeah, it took a while to make. It's not balsa wood. I'm not really sure what its called. Some artificial particle board type thing found at Home Depot. It has a super smooth finish on one side of it, so I used that side for the exterior of the case.
Holy shite. That's insane. Did you use balsa wood? That's the only type of wood I can think of that would be light enough to function as a pc clip. Also good choice with the PETG, it looks sexy. And I'm also curious how ranges to compare to those of a regular clip.
Sweet job on the design, it looks like it took a good amount of time.
Can't do ranges yet because I need to make some more stefans. I'll post some up soon.
Edit: Can't seem to get these terms straight. I don't mean the over pressure release valve, but the rubber gasket thing at the back of the shaft that only alows air to go through one way, what ever that is called.
Underrated: LnL. You know why? Because it's the only pistol (at least out of the SSII, SS, NF, AT1K, Sm 250, Sm 350, and Mav. I don't know about the TTG.) that features a unique cylinder tube that the plunger travels down. It's not a perfect cylinder so the plunger doesn't catch until about halfway on it's journey. The result? The plunger builds up sufficiently more momentum and the feel of firing it is one of a kind.
That air noise is the air escaping out of the over pressure release valve. You can plug that up by putting some hot glue over it. You can then get a lot more air pressure into the air tank.
I'd have to disagree with that. I compared ranges to a stock titan to a cut open barrel titan and they were almost identical. I don't think the compressed air has much trouble at all exiting the stock barrel.
Taking out the air restrictors added an extra 5-10 feet with stock missiles, but improved the velocity a lot.
Stock barrel. I don't think dremling the "air restrictors" would increase range much at all. Some of my newer ones are getting ever closer to the ranges of the stock missiles.
Are the ranges with a stock barrel with air restricitons and everything, or did you dremel the restrictors out?
The at2k is more powerful than the at3k? The at3k has a larger air tank.
High power guns like at2k...Moderately powerful guns like at3k,
I think you're altitude also plays a fairly big roll is weight choice. For instance, at my grandparent's cabin (about 7500' high), I got by with one bb per micro dart in my brassed sm1500. It didn't shoot as far as the lead fishing weight ones, but it shot straight (no fish tailing) and came close to as far. I suspect if I was real close to sea level, than I'd get results closer to what Cxwq gets.