The backpresure wouldn't work anyways, it would just slow down the bolt on its way forward. It work in firearms because the bolt is already closed when the presure comes around and it is not creating the presure. Does that make sence? It should, but not everyone thinks like me or can read minds.

Am I the only one thinking platform shoes? With all seriousness though, I can't see these working without unreaonably thick soles, which are hard to run in.

This is kind of an ineresting web site that my sister showed me. You learn vocab and get smarter. If you get a word right, then the company donates 20 grains of rice. The other day, I got up to over 3000 grains of rice. If you have some free time, play; it is for a good cause. They also tell you your vocab score, mine was about 20, but my dad's is in the high 30's.

Free Rice page

It was definitely meant to be played in a large park. I see your point about the BDU's. Now I am thinking that same color shirts or a handkerchief tied around your head would be better. In order to make the round less boring and long, you could have an "extraction time" and if team A doesn't meet the dead line, they loose. This game was never meant to be played with a whole ton of people. Originally, I thought 3-5 people would be best. It's not the kind of game that DCNO or other large wars would play. Just something else some friends can do.

Sorry, I wasn't sure if that thread was to encourage us to think of new ideas or to post new ideas there. I understand the BDU thing, I wear one as a light jacket though. I like the handkerchief around the head thing too. Supply of BDU's isn't a problem for me I have two and my friend has one. I will pick some more up over the summer and I never planned for my games to get to more than four or five people. Giving team A light guns, pistols and such, also discourages team A to shoot first.

To my knowledge, this is a new game. Here are the rules that I have come up with. They where typed in a fashion that my friends can understand, so that is why there is so much capitalization etc. If you have any ideas please post them.

TEAM SPLITTING: Team numbers are split according to the number of people playing.
There are always two teams, team A, also known as Team Alpha or Lone Wolf, and team B known as The Hunters or Beta Force.

Number of People Playing Number on Team A Number on Team B
3 ................................................1................................2
4.................................................1................................3
5.................................................2................................3
6 ................................................2................................4
7 ................................................2/3.............................5/4
8 ................................................2/3.............................6/5

OBJECTIVE: Each team has a very specific objective. They are as fallows;

TEAM A: The smaller team has to locate a specific item, known as “The Object.” They will be disclosed the location of this object in their mission briefing, which we will discuss later. Once they have the object in their possession, they need to make it to the end, known as the extraction point.

TEAM B: The larger team’s goal is to locate and tag* the other team, or locate the object first.

*All tags must be landed on the head or torso. One hit elimination. Modifications: * Change number of hits.

MISSION BRIEFING: Each team will get a mission briefing. Team A’s mission briefing will contain the exact location of the object and the extraction point along with a suggested path to take. Team B’s Mission briefing will contain an approximant location of the object along with an approximant location of the extraction point. These will be handed out to each team before the game begins and will be in an oblique envelope. Each team will need to keep a close eye on these because they don’t want the other team knowing what they know and it is their only means to know where everything is.

EQUIPMENT: Each person will be issued a BDU jacket that must be worn at all times. This sets you apart from the rest of the public. The point of this is so you can ask bystanders if they have seen another player walking around, distinguished by the BDU. If you do ask someone you must give a short summery of what you are doing, as to put him or her at ease. APROCH BYSTANDERS AT YOUR OWN RISK. THEY MAY NOT APROVE OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND ASK YOU TO STOP OR ASK MORE QUESTIONS. IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO DEAL WITH THESE, THEN DON’T ASK THE BYSTANDERS. DO NOT USE THE WORD “GUN” WHEN CONFRONTING PEOPLE, USE BLASTER. Along with your BDU, you will be issued a Nerf NiteFinder and five Nerf darts. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO MAKE SURE ALL EQUIPMENT MUST BE RETURNED. PICK UP YOUR DARTS. Modifications: *If you are playing with people over 16, you may consider letting Beta Force have use of a car. *Give each player more than five darts. *Use different Nerf guns.

RULES OF ENGAGMENT: Team Alpha MUST avoid confrontation at all cost. Run before you shoot. Beta Force can shoot whenever they want. DO NOT POINT NERF BLASTER AT NON-PLAYERS.

GAME PLAY:

1. Teams are chosen.
2. Each team is handed its pre-prepared envelope with their mission briefing in it. Each team looks at it and Team A take the object and places it in the designated location. Then Team A returns to the drop zone (starting point). Team A is given a 10-minute head start. Modification: Change the amount of time Team A gets as a head start.
3. The game continues until one team completes their objective or is completely wiped out.

IF A COP CONFRONTS YOU, THE GAME GOES ON PAUSE AND YOU KINDLY TELL HIM OR HER WHAT YOU ARE DOING. IF THEY TELL YOU TO QUIT, THEN QUIT. IF THEY ASK TO SEE A BLASTER LET THEM. MAYBE OFFER TO LET THEM SHOOT YOU WITH IT.

Sorry if a game like this has been posted, it is hard to search for games you have never heard of.

I'd say I'm not bad.

Firearm: CZ 452 FS
Caliber: 22lr
Scope Power: 14
Distance: 50 yrds.
Target Diameter: 3/4 inch
Date shot: few weeks ago
Position: Off a bench, front bag

Five shot groups. Used Fedral Gold Medal ammo.

The way to use google to search The Haven, (or any other site) is "site:nerfhaven.com" minus the quotes of course. Then type what you need. It will have normal google results, except only on Nerf Haven. I find this very helpful lookinf for stuff on The High Road or Rim Fire Centarl.

Hope this helps.

Most of it is cosmetic. All it is, is a gravity fed magazine, a manually opperated breech and an air compressor. The BS8 and ABP by far more complicated.

Does the hole in the grip look large enough to put a Wii controller in? I seem to remember some one saying something about EA making a nerf game and that Nerf would make a blaster to go with it.

You might be able to find a digital timer at a dollar store and replace the buzzer with a switch that controls the LED's. Then you could also program if you wanted a 5 sec delay or a 10 sec delay etc.

1. I don't know how to mod a solonoid. Search for it, I know it's there.
2. The clothes pin pushes up the nail so that when the catch face goes over it, it gets pushed into a hole, the side of a hole catches it. Open the clothes pin and it pulls the nail down and out of the hole.
3. Check valves let air go one way, but not the other.
4. Try ShopKo or Target, maybe a dollar store.

King, I use a #4 washer and a 3/8 felt pad. The pad makes a the air seal, and it is a really good air seel. If you want to see how I cut my darts, go and see my templates in the Stefan tip thread, there are pics and it is somewhere near the bottem. They are like mini CS darts. As for the wind, I don't know, there is no wind right now; it is pretty much a perfect day right now, curse perfect days. I'll test it when I can.

Bump, add the write up, sorry for the long time to get the write up up. Sorry for the double post to. Feel free to ask questions or for pictures, I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

A quick look through the homemade directory found this, just make sure to use the barrel that fits your darts.
CXWQ Gun

You should do the Mav. mod that CS came up with, the side swapable clip. It is the easiest mod I have done. Just make sure the back place is all the way back, and it works great. Found it, CS clip mod

How did you thread that?

What part exactly do you mean by "peg"? The plunger shaft or the sight?

These things I made to make my darts more uniform. The best way to make something uniform when cutting is make a templet, so I cut these out of wood and sanded them down. The foam fits into them semi-tightly, and I cut them with a box cutter through the slit. The bigger one is for 1/2 FBR and the smaller is for 3/8 FBR. The small one is set to one inch, the small side and the big one is set to 1 1/2 inch on the small side and 2 inches on the other.



Here are a few samples of how well it cuts the foam. These are straight from the roll, not even straightend(sp).
Thats a 3 inch machinest squar in there, by the way.

You're right Carbon, I didn't see it before I made it but that is funny that you made something a lot like it, just out of PVC. When did you make that, and does the "s" stand for secret? One reason I wanted to make it out of CPVC is because, I didn't know anyother homemade made almost completly out of CPVC.

This is my first homemade. It is called the Compact Carry SNAP, because if you take the barrel off, it will fit in your pocket easily; better than a cut down NF. The SNAP comes from the type of triger. Thank you Carbon for coming up with this trigger, it wouldn't be posible without it. It is made completely out of CPVC, except a small ring and the catch system.



That is a four inch barrel on it, brass (13/32). It shoots nanos and gets an estimated 45 feet. I don't mind that it has not that good of a range. It is ment for assassin games where you need to have a gun, but can't be seen with one, like when shopping.

The plunger tube is 1 inch CPVC, the barrel seath is 1/2 inch CPVC, the plunger head is a 1/2 CPVC end cap.



This is the gun taken all apart. The spring perch is not pictured, it is still in the plunger tube, it is hard to get in and out. As you can see, the plunger shaft has slots cut in it; two screws enter into there and guide the plunger so that the catch hole doesn't turn away form the catch pin. The plunger head is not glued on, it is just friction, it works fine.

The gun can have the 45 degree cupler on it so it is more like a pistol, or you can insert it into some 1/2 inch PVC at the end of the gun that also the plunger head hits, to not put stress on the slots. In the end of the 45 degree coupler is a half inch reducing bushling. In order to get the coupler to fit on the end, I had to showlow out room for the screw head.



Right now it has a streched maverick spring in it, I think it would get better range if I replaced the spring. I made a second one with a handyman spring in it and it just made the trigger pull ungodly hard. It broke the clothes pin I was using. It didn't even increase range to the point it would be exceptable. There is no way you can shoot it when you need to. I recommend a weaker spring. I haven't tried it, but I would think a stock NF spring would do well.

Edit: Thanks Piney!

PINEY EDIT:Okay, I fixed your image tags. Now they show up on page. If you resize your first image to match the second one it won't be so ginormous.

Sorry it took so long to get a write up up.

Materials

• 1 inch CPVC
• ½ inch CPVC
• ½ inch CPVC couplers (2)
• ½ inch CPVC end cap (1)
• Right size O ring (I can’t remember the size; just pick out one that fits tightly over the end cap and inside the handle.)
• 1 ½ key ring (1)
• Clothes pin (1)
• Small, wide head nail (1)
• Electrical tape
• #6 ½ inch pan head sheet metal screws (6)
• Barrel Pipe
* ¾ inch CPVC if your barrel material doesn’t fit in ½ inch CPVC
* ¾ inch or ½ inch reducing bushing, what ever size you are using as your barrel sheath.
• 135 degree 1 inch CPVC coupling.
• Spring, I don’t suggest the handyman spring. To big compressed length.

Tools

• Dremal with cutting disk and sanding drum
• Drill, drill press preferably
• Hack saw if you want
• Hot glue and hot glue gun

1. Cut your handle to the desired length. I cut mine to 6”.

2. Now you need to make three spacers. Take one of the ½” couplers, and cut it in half. Now sand out the inside of each half. Now cut another coupler in half and sand it out. Rap them in electrical tape until they fit nicely in the one inch CPVC handle you cut.

3. Now take two of them and line them up along side the handle like this



The closer they are, the more precise you have to be. Use a marker to make a mark in-between them; this will be the hole where the catch pin goes through. Use a drill or drill press to drill a hole with a 1/8 inch bit.

4. Drill a hole in your clothes pin where you want the catch pin to go through.

5. Now you need to cut the plunger shaft. It needs to be the same length as the handle.

6. Drill holes in the spring perch spacer, screws will go through here and they will also keep the plunger shaft from spinning. The bit size is 1/8 inch. The end of the spacer closest to the catch pin can not block the hole that the pin goes through. Try to get them about directly across.

7. To find out where the catch hole will be in the plunger shaft, you need to take your spring you are using and put it on the plunger shaft. Make sure the screws in the spring perch are in, but not in enough to block the way of the plunger shaft. Get a clamp and pull the plunger tube out until the spring is fully compressed. Now, while it is still being pulled back, clamp the plunger tube so that it will not go forward at all. Now use a screw and screw it in the hole. This will make a small hole in the plunger shaft. While it is still clamped, put some screws in the spring perch, which should be in already with screws in, just not screwed in all the way. Release the clamp and remove the plunger shaft. Take the Dremal and drill and 1/8 inch hole exactly on the hole the screw made and then widen it with a grinding tool. To test if it is big enough and in the right spot, put the spring back on and put it back in the handle, and pull it all the way back, drop a nail in the catch hole and work it around a little. It might take a little bit of work to get the nail in the hole. If you can’t get it, take it apart and make the hole bigger. If you get it, take it all apart.

8. Now we are going to put in the end caps. These are the other spacers you made, they will be flesh with the end. One on each end. Use a drill and a 1/8 inch bit. Put two screws in each, you will need to cut down the screws with the cutting wheel.

9. Take the holes you made with the spring perch in step 7 and use a cutting wheel to make slots in it, it might be a good idea to use a square. Use a spare screw to see if they are big enough.



10. Glue on your clothes pin, lining up the hole with the other hole in step 4.

11. You may have to epoxy on your plunger head. Now this part takes a very steady hand or a drill press. Take a 1/8 inch drill bit and set up the drill press, drill a very shallow hole and then lock the bit in place, spin the head so that it makes a grove. This is where the o-ring will sit. From time to time, take it out and put the o-ring on and see how well it fits in the handle. When it is pretty tight, but will fit, grease it up and see how well it slides now. It should slide great.

12. Now put it all together and see if it works, if it doesn’t, adjust what’s not working. Once everything is working, continue to step 13.

13. Cut the catch nail a little so that it isn’t to long. Then stick it in the hole in the close pin a clamp the close pin to that it is open and that the nail head is flush with the clothes pin. Then put a big blog of hot glue on it.

14. Drill a hole for the key ring in the end of the plunger shaft and put it on.

I think that is it, if you have any questions or I left something out, just ask. If you need other pics, just ask for that too and I'll get it as soon as I can.

Edit: Added information on stronger springs.

You should read Captain Slug's DIY air tank. He did it.

Found the link.

You can't really. I have never read a way to do it. I believe it was a joke; one that I thought was pretty funny.

That is the one I have. I use it all the time to cut pvc and to sand ocasonaly(sp), or to drill small holes, if I don't use the drill press. If you want to just cut and sand, especially plastics, then go and get it. That's all I do with mine so if you're looking to do something else with it, then I don't know. I have also never used the stylus. The only thing is that it is not wireless.

For me, yes, for others, no idea. I did the same thing you did, except I exchanged it four times, all bad. I ended up just returning it and getting a RF20, worked great out of the box, until it broke recently from pumping it to fast.

I've made about 50 nano's, and they seem to work great. I make them the same way you would make CaptainSlug's darts, but with 3/8 inche dots and #4 washers. The felt makes the seal with the barrel and it works great in brass. They fit well in 13/32 brass. As for range, in a one foot blow gun, with little effort, they can his ~40-45 feet; I think that a gun would launch them futher, or if I had a longer pipe. I have never tried anyother way to make then, so I don't know how well the range stands up to other methods.

The problem with using those pocket vortex nerf footballs is that they don't fit in anything cheap enough to use. The smallest pvc they will fit in is 2 inch, and that leaves an 8th inch gap (don't think that is good enough). The thing that would work perfit is 2 inch copper, but that is $150 per 10 feet. You would also have to ramrod it, plus three feet of copper weighs way too much. I actually took a football down to Lowes and tried it. The problem with the full size foot balls is that they are bumpy. I had an idea for a mortar and a rocket launcher a while back. Just no good pipe cheap enough, or light enough.

I enjoy mil-sims. I am not allowed to play airsoft or paintball, so sometimes me and my friends will play hostage sims. Usually it's just a back and forth down the hall with an ocational charge.

If he KNOWS he is related to you, he should not care if he tells you his real name, at least first name anyways. I found out I was distantly related to a kid at school, he is like me 3rd 2nd removed cousin; or something, I don't know how that stuff works, second cousins and all. I dout that he is a bot, bots can talk to anyone and other people would have heard of him, I googled him, nothing but the Haven link.

They work fine in all of my guns, except the firefly. I just make sure to depress the dome on top completely(sp). I'd buy them.

Sounds like you have yourself a seal issue. Either the barrel isn't rotating correctly, or the plunger tube isn't in the right space. My guess is the latter of the two. Take it apart and make sure that the small lip on the front of the plunger tube is in the area that it locks into. Usually if I mess something up, I take it apart and put it back together and it works, sometimes I have to repeat the process a few times though.

I guess that I am the only one that thinks that the thing is okay. It's not that bad, and it is fun to shot at. I own the launcher too, so. The things that I don't like about it is that the only place with a high enough ceilling and nothing breakable around, is in the gerage, and it gets pretty hot in there. It is hard to his disks, the best I've got is for the disk to hit the side of the dart. To setle this, the "site" is the launcher "detinator"(sp) and a site, but the site is horible, and makes you aim low. You don't have time to aim anyways.

That shouldn't be a downside, we have to remeber that the NTS, you had to push forward.

It would no longer be tip heavy, so it wouldn't fly very well. I think it would fishtail. It would also have too much weight.

Your right, the mav is very easy to mod. I did CS's swapable clip mod to it and it came out great. Easist mod ever. It was easier than putting on my LS forgrip. I have nothing but indoor wars, so I end up using it a lot if I don't use my LS. Now that it is clip modded, I can get off 18 shots in ~20 seconds (that includes relode time).

It is good to have this. Hopefully this will cut down on the things you mentioned.

Wow, I never would have thought of that, and it is so simple.

Someone recently made a PETG breach, like thing. If you are trying to make a breach, like FA_24 did with brass, except with a crayola marker, I don't know of anything that will make a good seal on it. I have never heard of a crayola breach. the best thing I think would be to look into the PETG breach and sort of replicate it. I looked, and couldn't find it.

So, you're planning on spending ~30 cents for one shot? I would just make an adapter to put on the end of the barrel to make a tiny barrel, and use the fire crackers as darts, like a small diamiter peice of brass. Well I wouldn't be shoting fire crackers, but if I was, that how I would do it.

2 Mav's, fixed one (other one, plunger nob thing broke)
Messed up another mav pritty bad, and now it gets anywhere form not out of the barrel to twenty feet.

So, $8-16 if you count the messed up one.