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#361729 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 08 October 2017 - 01:21 PM in General Nerf

Thanks to all who participated. It was nice to see some new things on the site: the Homemades had a few new tricks, and the Modifications showed what could be done with a limited "base model." Seeing some info on paint and other aesthetics was great, too.


Perhaps folks already looked at the polls and figured it out on their own, but now that I had time to go through and double check my spreadsheet, hereare the results.


In short:

The highest overall score was Spud Spudoni's IPAC.

Second Prize (best score in the Modifications category) goes to Snoop for his Pump Action Sentinel.


Congratulations to both of you!

#361726 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 06 October 2017 - 11:38 AM in General Nerf

Bumping with a reminder that voting ends tonight.

#361674 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 27 September 2017 - 06:34 PM in General Nerf

If presidential candidates can vote for themlselves then yeah I think it's no big deal if someone votes for him/herself in a contest of who made the best toy gun.

#361653 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 25 September 2017 - 08:51 PM in General Nerf

Voting is now open. Polls will be closed at 11:59pm eastern time Friday October 6. Results will probably be posted by the following Sunday  October 8.
Please go to each of the following threads and, review the writeup, and rate each blaster on the 4 listed criteria (Originality, Functionality/Aesthetics, Complexity, and Writeup Quality)
.5-.625 ACBR
Mag-Fed XBZ Longstrike
Rapid Red
Pump-Action Sentinel (VGS)


(Voting is only open to Nerfhaven members)

#361467 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 31 August 2017 - 09:11 PM in General Nerf

Alright I like Doge's idea. Unless someone who did post on time has a problem with it, Final deadline will be 11:59pm September 14th.

If you have something in progress, get it done. Doge and anyone else who didn't actually post a writeup on NH, figure out how to get it on NH. Did you try splitting the writeup into multiple posts in order to upload all the pictures?

Thanks to everyone who actually submitted on time. If you have a problem with the extension please PM me to discuss.

#361448 Boomco Clip Feeding Mechanism Question

Posted by jwasko on 30 August 2017 - 08:37 PM in Modifications

So the white piece that pushes directly on the black peg is moving out of place rather than pushing the peg downward/advancing the clip?


I would say that first of all you definitely need rails of some sort to keep that from happening. It looks like you have a guide below the armature (right in front of the trigger guard) but nothing above it which is the direction that the peg will be trying to force it.


Also it could be that the angle of the ramp on the pusher is too steep. It may need to be closer to horizontal.


In general I would just try to mimic the stock mechanism that pushes on that peg/advances the clip as much as possible


What blaster did you steal the clip mechanism from?

#361327 THIS one simple design will have you in TEARS...

Posted by jwasko on 17 August 2017 - 08:08 PM in Homemades

Au contraire Captain, it has been done.

Just. It ideal for this project.

I think that those two stacks did not quite "center" though, as would be needed for a springer's barrel or even most flywheels. That blaster looks to have very thick flywheels, so it can fire from two slightly offset stacks.

#361307 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 16 August 2017 - 08:48 PM in General Nerf

So there was a lot of interest, but we only have 2 entries with a couple weeks to go.


Are people working on projects? Do we need to extend the deadline?

#361007 Stryfe voltage mod questions

Posted by jwasko on 15 July 2017 - 10:03 PM in Modifications

Running 2 would be better in the long run and would get 85-90fps so that's what I'm going to use. Would bridging the gap in the battery tray with 18 gauge wire be better/safer than with homemade dummy batteries (aluminum foil based)?

The homemade dummy batteries are probably a great way to start a fire.

The wire will be better especially if you solder the ends of the wire to make sure they don't come loose.

#360915 Flywheel and Cage Questions

Posted by jwasko on 05 July 2017 - 08:04 PM in Modifications

And by "high crush," that means less space b/w the flywheels, so the dart gets deformed more as it passes through the flywheels?

To add/clarify, high crush cages generally get higher FPS. Up until it's too tight for the darts to physically fit and/or for the motors to be able to maintain speed, anyway.

#360868 eneloop aa nimh pack current discharge?

Posted by jwasko on 30 June 2017 - 10:08 PM in Modifications

Would slightly heavier darts (fvj, waffle tip) be able to handle slightly higher fps via slightly higher voltage without fishtailing as badly as slightly lighter koosh darts?

I think I've decided on using a worker buffer tube and an airsoft grade butt stock that houses an 8.4v sub-c nimh pack and hoping it works well with mtb rhinos and slightly heavier ekind waffle darts without fishtailing. And hoping upgrading to canted metal flywheel cage will help with dart fishtailing.

A canted flywheel cage can cause whirlybirds. Most people go for straight cages.


But yes heavier darts are often more stable at high velocity (although heavier darts will also not fly quite as fast out of the same blaster)

#360755 Mark-13 w/60 Dart Mag (Prototype)

Posted by jwasko on 23 June 2017 - 09:25 PM in Homemades

I believe you mixed up No and NC in your wiring diagram.

There are some PVC fittings that have decent chamfers pre-made that you want to try. a 3/4" to 1/2" CPVC tee is an example, (it's my favorite for RSCBs). Not sure if a straight adaptor is similar.


And don't forget you could use copper instead of CPVC. Same OD, larger ID than CPVC.



Flex > 3/4" PVC  > 3/4" PVC to 3/4" CPVC adaptor > 3/4" CPVC stub > 3/4" CPVC to 1/2" CPVC Tee/adaptor > 1/2" copper > Flywheels


FYI PVC/CPVC adaptor: https://www.lowes.co...ittings/3341714

#360705 comparing chronograph results

Posted by jwasko on 21 June 2017 - 08:26 PM in General Nerf

If you're doubting your chrony why not test it against the calibrated standard of gravity? All falling things accelerate at 32.2 feet per second (minus drag) so why not drop something dense and smooth surfaced (like a marble, ball bearing or heck, even a roundish rock might work) from a measured distance and compare the measured speed with the calculated speed?
We (the collective NIC) might even want to develop and accept our own standard to test and compare our chronys for accuracy. It'd be as simple as "drop a dense roundish object through it from a measured distance of 4'.  "? That's a test all chrony owners can perform without having to ship anything anywhere.

Gravity is such an awesome idea. Major props.

Something like slingshot ammo is something that should be fairly consistent and sufficiently dense that I don't think it would be significantly affected by drag or wind. The only issue might be release; perhaps a pin in a piece of PVC.

After calibrating with a slingshot ammo, marble, or whatever, you could also try dropping a dart (which would probably fall significantly slower).


Edit: I don't know if there is a lower end to what your chrono can read, but running some math dropping an object from 6ft above the chrono will only produce an FPS of 19.6 by the time it gets to the chrono. Getting closer to the FPS of your retaliator would require something like 25ft (40.1FPS)


Also, regardless of your chrono's capabilities, there will be additional acceleration between the firast sensor and the second sensor. If they are a foot apart (I have no idea what this length actually is), the velocity would change by ~4% between the sensors at around 20FPS. That change would decrease to ~1% at 40FPS.

#360704 Muzzle loading 17th Century Pistol

Posted by jwasko on 21 June 2017 - 08:09 PM in Homemades

Try using this link https://www.assocspring.co.uk, and then entering D22790 as the search term on the company's front page. (box titled "search our site")

That worked, thanks
These are the stats:
Outer Diameter (Do) (mm) ...22.00
Wire Diameter (d) (mm) ...2.01
Free Length (L) (mm) ...199.9
Solid Height, Approx (mm)... 40.9
Spring Rate (N/mm) ...0.9
Load Length (L1) (mm) ...55.6
Load at L1 (N) ...132.6
Fun fact: The OD and wire diameter are basically the same as a Mcmaster 9637k26 spring. It's only 8inches long ([k26] is 11in or ~280mm) but the spring rate syncs up with an 8inch length of [k26] as well.

The solid height of D22790 seems a bit shorter though. I think [k26] has 3.09 coils per inch; it seems your spring has more like 2.6 per inch or 1 per cm.

#360703 HvZ Endwar: Who's going?

Posted by jwasko on 21 June 2017 - 07:34 PM in General Nerf

I know this forum is more oriented towards NIC class Nerf


True but even some of the older members have participated in HvZ and such, so no reason to assume there's no crossover.  It's NerfHaven, after all, not NIC-haven. 


Based on Aeromech's youtube channel I think he has a booth with some (spinger) homemades.


I was really tempted to go since it's just close enough I could possibly manage to drive round trip Saturday. Too much work to do on the house and lack of forethought, though, unfortunately. I lack Meaker and Slug's skills for responsible nerfing, I suppose. Then again I didn't even know about it until there was that drama on reddit.


Hope you and everyone else enjoy.

#360666 Muzzle loading 17th Century Pistol

Posted by jwasko on 19 June 2017 - 09:24 PM in Homemades

That's awesome!  I don't quite fully understand how it primes and fires though.  I understand that it uses the ramrod to push back the piston, but does the hammer have to be cocked in order for the catch to work?  


Also, does it spark when the hammer strikes the pan(I think thats what its called)?

Close, but no. The spark would be created when the flint strikes the steel frizzen; the pan underneath holds the powder and catches the spark.
 I don't see a flint, so I'm guessing it doesn't spark.


I really like your stuff, Justin. Thanks for sharing the info on leather piston seals. A long time ago I tried making one, but went about it way differently (read: wrong).


By the way the link to your spring doesn't work.

#360664 comparing chronograph results

Posted by jwasko on 19 June 2017 - 09:01 PM in General Nerf

Coincidentally, I work in a Chem lab, too. You sound like one of those annoying QA types  ;)


I was going to suggest that lighting may be causing issues with the chrono, but if you bought the lighting kit that shouldn't be it. You might still want to do some testing outside (on a cloudy day I think is best? It should say in the manual) and compare results.


A lot of environmental things can impact springer performance including temperature and humidity; they can cause the darts to shrink or swell. If the dart doesn't fit the barrel correctly, performance will be impacted. I suppose there could be issues with orings, too.


Dart weight and dart head shape can cause big differences too. I've seen a lot of people use elite darts with flywheels possibly because they give higher numbers, but they lack accuracy when it comes time to use them in battle.


A flywheel blaster, though it may be somewhat less consistent from shot to shot, might be a better baseline from nerfer to nerfer. Now, Hasbro may (or may not) have used slightly different motors from one production run to another, but it's at least a start. You may be familiar with Foam Data Services. Here is a video with some data on a stock stryfe:


Unfortunately I haven't found a central repository of all his data, but he links a spreadsheet in the description of each video he produces.


If you replace the motors and battery that will you another datapoint. There should be a good amount of data around for Rhino motors on 3S LiPo for instance (although I totally get your reluctance for LiPo).



This still leaves us with trying to correlate the data from your chronograph to the data from other people's chronographs. At my job, my analytical instrument is calibrated at least daily using NIST traceable standards purchased from two different sources. However, in order to make sure there isn't drift over time we analyze samples of known concentration. This concentration may be known to us (run as a Laboratory Control Spike or LCS) or tested blind (in the case of Proficientcy Tests that we must pass in order to stay certified with accrediting agencies).


Of course all Nerf blasters' FPS are only being tested by hobbyists using hobbyist equipment much like yourself (at best, but probably much worse!) so there is no real way to have a certified blaster with a definitely known FPS.


However, there is also the round robin test. If a single blaster (not multiples of the same blaster) is tested using several nerfers' chronos, then one might be able to determine whether there is a bias in your chrono and or other chronos. If there are enough participants, then you may be able to use some statistical wizardry  to come up with a number to use as a "true value" for the FPS for that blaster. Of course this would be easier if you met up with several people with chronos at a war or something. Otherwise you would have to mail the blaster from one person to the next.


Again, I sort of feel like a flywheel blaster may be less likely to get damaged en route/have its performance significantly changed over time. However, keep in mind that over time foam from the darts tends to build up on flywheels. Performance (FPS) can increase significantly during the initial buildup.


Apologies for the rambling post; been working on it in spurts for half the evening.


PS: Welcome to Nerfhaven, glad to have you!

#360636 Stryfe motors for IMR's?

Posted by jwasko on 18 June 2017 - 03:49 PM in Modifications

Meishel 2.0 over mtb honey badgers, falcons etc???

From what I've heard Honeybadgers aren't great flywheel motors. They work, but they were mainly to be used as pusher motors for Rapidstrikes and I think actually spin a bit too fast for flywheels at ~7volts. I hear great things about Meishel 2.0s though. Meanwhile Rhinos (which are the same as the older Falcon motors) are suggested to use 11 to 12 volts. So if you are using a better battery (one of your big C-cell packs), but limiting it to 7.2Volts, Meishel 2.0 is one of the best options currently on the market.


Falcons (sold as MTB Rhinos these days) suggest ~11volts but as shandsgator said you could "undervolt" them and they will still shoot nerf darts...they just won't fly as fast. However we know (again, as per shandsgator)  they will run on AA size eneloops if that's what you really want.


By the way, everyone looking at flywheel motors should know this link: https://docs.google....AwW7vg/htmlview


SSGT (I believe) compiles specs on lots of popular motors. The most important numbers for you are No Load Speed (in RPM) and the Stall Current (in Amps) as well as what voltage that is for (some motors have multiple voltage listings).


You really want that RPM to be at least 30,000. In order to try to use AA cells, you need the Stall Current as low as possible (remember you will be multiplying Amps by two because there are two motors). The motor with the lowest Stall current on that sheet (while also being "good" aka at least 30,000RPM) is the Rhino at 9.1A (at 12 Volts)


Honeybadgers will get ~40,000RPM at 7.2 volts, but one will require 13Amps. For comparison, a Rhino will get 21,600RPM and have a Stall Current of 5.46Amps at 7.2 Volts


More numbers for various numbers of eneloops on Rhinos and Honey Badgers. Keep in mind that the eneloop voltage may "sag" a bit and be a bit under 1.2 Volts each during use. So these numbers may be optimistic.


Note: For the "perfect" motor, assuming you can have any battery you want., you would pick a motor with around 30,000RPM and the the highest Stall Torque (in mN.m or gf.cm) possible. Then just make sure you get a battery that can handle the stall torque (multiplied by however many motors you have)


Note 2: There's a couple different "sizes" of motors, as seen in the leftmost column of SSGT's spreadsheet. 130 size motors will fit in stryfes, rapidstrikes, etc. 180 size and 1X0 size motors will only fit in those blasters if you cut a hole in their side. 360/380 motors are for Rival blasters or highly custom builds.

#360633 Optimum deadspace removal in the bolt for pusher breeches?

Posted by jwasko on 18 June 2017 - 06:36 AM in Modifications

I don't know that anyone has done extensive testing, but I believe I have read suggestions that it should be kept to at least 3/8inch inner diameter. A chronometer would probably give more reliable data than range testing, but you could try experimenting in the range of 1/4" to 3/8" diameter.

#360559 barrels

Posted by jwasko on 13 June 2017 - 09:11 PM in Modifications

You're not going to find mm (millimeter) sizes of PVC in the United States. I'm guessing you're looking for it because you read/watched something from a Australian or Asian nerfer....they only have mm sizes of PVC, just as we only have inch sizes. You might be able to find waht you are looking for online, but maybe not easily.


It you tell us what you are trying to use these sizes of PVC for, we may be able to suggest alternatives.

#360345 The Foam Conflict (gametype)

Posted by jwasko on 04 June 2017 - 03:42 PM in Off Topic

This would be more like a plan ahead type thing. Plan your loadout(s) and bring the required blasters to the war. No need to memorize the whole thing. It's like in some tabletop games (mostly x-wing and other miniature/war games)


The number after the classes is how many points they can spend, right?


A light can use a Pullback springer w/ hopper (such as a +bow with hopper?) and nothing else, or a pullback RSCB+Pistol...so pretty standard NIC war loadout but with instant respawn? Or they could go the other direction and have a stock ammo rapidstrike plus singled AAbow. Seems like kind of a lot.


A medium could use a pullback singleshot and, say, a rapidstrike using stock ammo, and a pistol. Again seems like a lot of gear for "medium" maybe.

#360326 Stryfe motors for IMR's?

Posted by jwasko on 04 June 2017 - 06:08 AM in Modifications

I am absolutely wanting better flywheels and most likely a canted metal flywheel cage if compatible with stock stryfe motors.

If you put any heavier flywheels in there they are going to take forever to accelerate with stock motors (and probably RM2s)



I have seen the "c-mod" with the rm2 motors.

Are you saying rm2's with carbon brushes would be better than stryfe motors with carbon brushes? Or would the stryfe motors still be more durable than the rm2 motors? Would rm2's with carbon brushes try to draw more current than 3 imr's could safely deliver?

Changing the brushes will not change the current or performance. Just the durability.

Which is better? Maybe stock motors.

Stock motors with 3 or 4 IMRs:


RM2 motors with AA size NiMH:



Check the data linked in the video description. Now the RM2s are being run at a lower voltage so it's not quite a fair comparison.


Also in the second video he says the RM2s could be drawing 10Amps. which seems a little high for IMRs so again you may want to stick with stock motors.

#360321 Stryfe motors for IMR's?

Posted by jwasko on 03 June 2017 - 09:04 PM in Modifications

try honey badgers

Honey Badgers require more current than Rhinos. and are thus an even worse suggestion than your earlier one. If you come come back suggesting Wolverines or Hellcats I swear...
As to making an actually helpful post: Swapping carbon brushes into RM2s is a thing that has been done and may be your best bet for IMRs. I don't know anything about bearings, but from my understanding pretty much any FC-130 motor on ebay should have compatible carbon brushes (assuming they aren't lying about them having carbon brushes in the first place, haha)

When buying donor motors look for FC130 motors with a plastic endbell (some, i.e. FK130 motors, have a stamped metal endbell and the brushes aren't compatible)--SSGT

Or go with what others have said and get an NiMH pack. It'll be safer than LiPo or even IMR. Or do you just want to use IMRs because that's what you already have?



Side note: Looking at the specs on solarbotics website, the RPM is like 1/5th the high end motors such as Rhinos. I know they aren't the best motors, but that seems impossibly low.

#360320 Rapid Red Rewiring & Motor Questions

Posted by jwasko on 03 June 2017 - 08:34 PM in Modifications


Sry my english is not really good, may i know what is "cutting it a bit close" means? is that means it will be a biy weak on the first 10 second? (btw 950/50=19, not 47.5)


I was not dividing. Capacity (Ah) multiplied by C-rating = Current


950mAh (milliamp-Hours) /1000= 0.95Ah (amp-hours)


0.95Ah*50C = 47.5 amps provided by the battery


50C (47.5Amps) is the burst rating of the battery. That means it's okay for the motors to require 47.5amps for a short period of time.



Two Meishel2.0 motors= 37.6 Amps total required at stall


The motors will only need 37.6 Amps for 1 or 2 seconds when you first turn them on, or if a dart is stuck in them and you keep trying to spin them.


37.6Amps required is less than 47.5Amps provided by the battery, so it is okay. The bigger the difference, the better.


If they were the same, or if the battery provided less Amps than required, it will damage the battery. 


The 950mAh battery should be okay. Just watch that it does not start to swell or get too hot,


Also, after rewiring make sure to test with regular batteries (like AAs) first instead of the LiPo. You could solder an extra JST connector to the stock battery try before you hack up the stock battery try. Test the blaster to make sure the regular batteries don't get hot or anything. Regular batteries getting hot could mean they are being shorted. If you short a LiPo it will catch fire.

#360245 Does the rear loading AT3K mod work with crayola barrels?

Posted by jwasko on 31 May 2017 - 09:52 PM in Modifications



May also work.


Pros: It's a legit online store, so your parents may be happier buying from them

Cons: They only ship rush, and it's 4ft long so shipping will probably cost a good bit. Also they don't tell you how much shipping is until it shows up on your credit card.

#360243 Rapid Red Rewiring & Motor Questions

Posted by jwasko on 31 May 2017 - 09:37 PM in Modifications

In Meishel's writeup she recommended several LiPo packs that all have a JST discharge plug on them. In order to use a LiPo, you need to be able to connect the discharge plug to the blaster's wiring.
According to https://foamblastsho...shel-2-0-motor/the stall current (for one motor I guess) is 18.8Amps. So in theory you may need 37.6amps for two motors.
In practice a switch in the 15-20Amp range is probably sufficient.  V-214-1C6 by Omron will probably be fine. One of the switches from foamblast.com (or wherever you are getting the motors) should be fine too assuming it's one of the 15 or 16amp ones.


Note: Meishel's original motors did not require as much current as the Meishel 2.0 batteries (about half actually). Some of the batteries recommended in that guide are a little bit wimpy for the 2.0 motors. This one provides 47.5amps at burst (950milliamps multiplied by 50C) so it should be okay, though it still may be cutting it a bit close.
Also, I suggest you watch this if you haven't already: 

#360242 Rival Magazine Storage?

Posted by jwasko on 31 May 2017 - 09:01 PM in General Nerf

Maybe look into paintball pod holders? https://www.amazon.c...ball pod holder

You may be able to hold a few Rival mags in place of one pod. Not sure how well they will stay in place in just the pouch, though.

You might be able to make something out of PVC pipe and endcaps, attached to some strapping.

#360221 High Cap Magazine Collective Brain-Spew

Posted by jwasko on 30 May 2017 - 09:45 PM in Homemades

Some nifty looking things I've been working on.  Spiral drum looks awesome, but is confirmed garbage.  There is some other stuff for a linear mag that may or may not go anywhere.  The super looper thingymabob is my latest theory of dart holding.  Unfortunately, even printed with a single perimeter it took over 3 hours and 280g of plastic.  Both the loopdedoo and the spiral drum thing printed great with minimalistic and sensible pathing--The spiral in the drum is just 2 perimeters thick (2mm) and sliced with no pointless stops and starts on the spiral.  I was similarly fortunate with the loopdedoodledandy which is basically an inner and an outer perimeter.

Out of curiosity what did you use as a follower for the spiral? Or, did you not even get that far?

#360220 Does the rear loading AT3K mod work with crayola barrels?

Posted by jwasko on 30 May 2017 - 09:26 PM in Modifications

I kind of feel like crayola barrels are so short you can just front load them, and use your pinky to shove the darts to the back of the barrel if needed (and you probably won't even have to do that  if using full length darts like elites). Why bother with rear loading?


For PETG, did you check with Draconis? http://nerfhaven.com...al/#entry359134


You could also use 9/16" brass tubing. It will be more expensive than PETG, but you may be able to find it at your local hobby shop. The wall thickness you want is 0.014inches


You don't need a fancy spacer. You can make one out of the original barrels (assuming you still have them/didn't destroy them): http://nerfhaven.com/mods/cxwq_at3000/

#360187 LI-po Charger help

Posted by jwasko on 29 May 2017 - 11:45 AM in General Nerf

ok omron switches come from containmentcrew that's  where I've found them so yeah i think i found a god charger but I am looking for a li-po

You can also get them from regular electronics suppliers like http://www.mouser.co...COvLPkI1v1xNQ==for cheaper. Of course, you'd also have to compare shipping. Just an FYI.


You started asking for a LiPo charger. Are you now asking for LiPo pack suggestions too? For Hellcats in a stryfe?


Also, please do your best to use correct spelling and grammar (and capitalization).

#360183 Rapid Red Rewiring & Motor Questions

Posted by jwasko on 29 May 2017 - 06:08 AM in Modifications

1. Probably Rhinos (http://www.containme...t-category/mtb/) or Meishel2.0 (https://foamblastshop.com/product-category/motors/) motors. Both I guess ship from within the US. You could maybe try PMing Meishel here or contact her on her website (Foamblast) and see if she can ship faster.


2. Any motor that fits a Stryfe (or Rapidstrike) will fit in a Rapid Red. 130-size motors like Rhinos (not "Rhino Fire") or Meishel 2.0s will fit without having to modify the shell at all. 180-size motors will require you to cut holes in the shell, but technically still "fit."


3. You can just use the same wire as if you were replacing the motors; it certainly won't hurt. Battery depends on what you are comfortable with. Do you know how to handle a LiPo? Do you have a LiPo charger (which one)? What stryfe guide are you talking about specifically?


4. Why do you need another guide besides Meishel's? It seemed pretty comprehensive.

#360145 Pull Style Converter For Blast Buttons.

Posted by jwasko on 26 May 2017 - 10:59 PM in Modifications

Why not simply make a rotating trigger similar to what's used on many Rainbow Catch homemades? That should reduce the complexity a bit.


(Example from http://nerfhaven.com...wpump-writeup/)

#360141 JSPB B&B mini-hopper

Posted by jwasko on 26 May 2017 - 08:21 PM in Homemades

Holy crap, not the greatest english, but who cares, this is amazing, mad props man.This looks amazing, if you could post the files you made this from and the parts list, I would imagine the whole community would thank you. Also, besides posting the files, try selling these! I can tell you depending on the price i would buy one of these


Edit:if you are with the JSPB group, tell them their products are great, but it would be appreciated if files for this were given out. I know you want to make profit off of these, but do everyone a favor and allow this to be open source if they want, and give the files out. I can tell you that it won't really impact your sales, in fact you may sell more because there will be many ways you can do it, aggressive and closed marketing is what made sites like tacticoolfoam.com get bad reviews and a bad rep, don't follow that path.

1.  Not his first language.

2. I don't know everything there is to know about JSPB (by far), but I'm pretty sure 3DBBQ is one of the originals if not the original. Check the links in his sig, which may lead you to http://www.jspb3d.com/about.html Also http://www.jspb3d.com/free-models.html


3DBBQ, thanks for sharing. I do not usually like scopes, but The Hyper V is a very good solution to fixing the line of sight. The throttle valve is fantastic, too.

#360139 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 26 May 2017 - 07:30 PM in General Nerf

Bubba, i would caution you on making a ultimate blaster, because Jwasko said you have to change at least something something to not plaugerize, and as you know drac has MANY videos out there. However, my suggestion would to be is do what you asked about, and then put something crazy, or add some special features and or cosmetics to make it earn more points, because every point counts!



Jwasko, so let me get this straight, are modded water blasters allowed? And like do you have to have an amazing paintjob or colors to get a lot of points in the aesthetics category?

Yeah water blasters are fine. And, because I'm sure someone will ask: it would probably be a modification. This is a contest to make something that shoots nerf darts (or HIRs or ballistic balls or vortex discs, etc). Doesn't matter what the starting materials are.


There is no separate aesthetics category. There is a combined functionality/aesthetics category. That way if someone makes a blaster but doesn't want to paint it, they won't automatically lose. Likewise if someone does an aesthetic mod with little to no performance increases they still have a chance, too.


What it takes to "get a lot of points" in a category isn't really up to me. It's up to the voters. You yourself will be a voter, so just ask yourself: how would you rate your blaster?


Heh heh, sorry for not explaining that part... What I meant was, all the basic, easy modifications in one big write up (ARs, better seal, spring upgrade, no deadspace, lock removal, reinforcements, and a paint job).
Hope that clears it up... Sorrttery for the confusion.

Well yeah I mean in theory the more you modify the blaster, the better. And making a comprehensive right up of the basics isn't exactly original but then again it is handy to be able to show new folks one complete writeup instead of having to give them a list of mods to read through. Likewise, some of those basics may not be well documented (or may have lost their pictures).


But yeah adding a twist or maybe an optional "for advanced modders" step would help increase your chance of winning.

#360115 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 25 May 2017 - 07:27 PM in General Nerf

If I'm using the plunger tube of a blaster for a 3d printed blaster. Is that a mod or homemade.
Also do I have to show how I modeled or just provide the files.


I'm gonna go with homemade, since it seems like it'll be almost entirely an original blaster.


Oh, I forgot to mention 3d printing rules...No, you don't have to show the modeling process (although any tips you share might win you extra points with voters!), but please include stl files or whatever is needed to allow others to make your blaster (or a blaster of a similar design).


Would an "ultimate" blaster mod writeup work? Even though it would score poorly in the originality section, would it still be eligible if you were the one who wrote it up?

 I'm confused. What's an "Ultimate" blaster mod writeup? 


In general, though, if you build a blaster and you take the pictures and you write the instructions (i.e. don't copy and paste), you're eligible. Ideally, if your mod is based on someone else's work, you at least have something a little extra to make it "yours." Even if that's mostly an aesthetic addition.


Also, be sure to credit whoever your work is based on.

#360098 Nerf Longshot brassbreech

Posted by jwasko on 25 May 2017 - 05:16 AM in Modifications

Although I have no firsthand experience with it, I have heard lots of great things about the sleeper breech.

#360095 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 24 May 2017 - 08:51 PM in General Nerf

Is a cosmetic writeup allowed?

Yes, I was trying to lean the scoring so that it didn't discriminate against cosmetic mods. That's why Functionality/Aesthetics is a single criteria.


Can we upload as many entries in each category as we want, or is there a limit?

I'm assuming the odds of anyone even submitting 5 will be low. Maybe 10 if they really go crazy. Are you planning to submit more than that?


If someone actually submits more than 10 quality writeups they may get a little prize whether they win or not (no promises), but I might have to ask them to pick their top 5 or something just so voters aren't overwhelmed with entries.

#360082 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 24 May 2017 - 05:03 AM in General Nerf

This looks good. One question though. Why is difficulty scored higher if it is higher? That category should maybe be called "complexity" instead, as difficulty implies how easy it would be for someone to replicate it, in which case a higher score should be awarded the simpler it is. 


I don't think it really matters what it's called. The point is that if someone attempted a difficult/complex mod but it turned out a little rough, they get some bonus points over someone who did a dead simple mod very cleanly.


"Complexity" is a better word, though. Updated.

#360078 2017 Contest Entries

Posted by jwasko on 23 May 2017 - 09:29 PM in General Nerf

Submit entries to the 2017 Contest in this thread.
Keep discussion in the other thread; this thread is only for links to writeups.
Links must be posted by 11:59pm eastern time on August 31, 2017 September 14, 2017.

#360076 2017 Modification/Homemade Contest

Posted by jwasko on 23 May 2017 - 09:21 PM in General Nerf

Introducing the 2017 Nerfhaven Modification/Homemade Contest!
This thread will serve as discussion for the contest. If you have any questions or comments, post them here.
Official submission thread is there.
Voting is now open. Polls will be closed at 11:59pm eastern time Friday October 6. Results will probably be posted by the following Sunday  October 8.
Please go to each of the following threads and, review the writeup, and rate each blaster on the 4 listed criteria (Originality, Functionality/Aesthetics, Complexity, and Writeup Quality)
.5-.625 ACBR
Mag-Fed XBZ Longstrike
Rapid Red
Pump-Action Sentinel (VGS)


(Voting threads are only visible to Nerfhaven members, since only Nerfhaven members may vote)
Contest rules:


Any member of Nerfhaven may enter this contest by posting a writeup into either the modifications or homemade forum of Nerfhaven.com, and then posting a link to the writeup in the official submission thread.

The writeup must be for a build that was completed by the user him/herself. No, you cannot submit a writeup explaining how someone else built a blaster that you saw online! On the other hand, you may build a blaster similar to someone else and then post a writeup crediting the original creator (just don't expect to score high in orginality...more on that later)

The writeup must be posted to Nerfhaven.com no later than 11:59PM eastern time on August 31, 2017 September 14, 2017.

Note that any build or writeup posted to nerfhaven.com in 2017 prior to the start of this contest is eligible. Technically, the contest is running from January 1, 2017-August 31, 2017.

All entries will be divided into two categories: Modifications and Homemades.
Each entry will be judged on the following criteria:

1. Originality:
Is it similar to other modifications and/or homemades, or is it something completely new? (Maximum 10 points).

2. Functionality/Aesthetics
How well did the build achieve its goal? Does it shoot far, fast, and/or look great? Also, basically, "How much do you like it?" (Maximum 10 points)

3. Complexity
The more complex the entry, the higher score. (Maximum 5 points)

4. Quality of the Writeup
How easy is it to grasp what was done? Can you replicate or improve upon the build assuming you have all the necessary tools? (Maximum 5 points)

The judges of this contest will be the members of nerfhaven.com. Members will have the chance to "grade" each entry in each of the four criteria from 1 to 10 (or 1 to 5, depending on the criteria). Results in each criteria will be averaged, and the winners will be determined by whichever entry has the most total points.
Example, with entry 3 being the winner at 23 total points:
            Avg Originality   Avg Functionality    Avg Complexity      Avg Writeup       Total
Entry 1       2                          8                       1                       5                  16
Entry 2       7                          5                       3                       4                  19
Entry 3       8                          9                       5                       1                  23

The blaster with the highest overall point total will win the grand prize of $50 (awarded by paypal or Visa gift card).

The blaster with the highest point total in the other category will win the second prize of $25 (awarded by paypal or Visa gift card). For example: if a homemade wins the grand prize, the modification with the highest point total will win the second prize.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Can I submit multiple builds?


Is my project a modification or a homemade?

For the purposes of this contest, a homemade is a blaster which does not utilize any parts from a mass produced (Nerf, Buzz bee, Boomco, etc) blaster or one which only uses parts of a mass-produced blaster to aid in comfort or form factor. For example, the FAL-3 is a homemade even though it has most of a Nerf Firefly bolted onto it and uses the trigger. It works nothing like a Firefly; it is a homemade.

Any other build will be in the modification category. They will involve alterations to mass-produced blasters, but may include homemade replacement components. For instance, putting a homemade plunger and/or plunger tube into a spring-powered blaster made by nerf is a modification.

I realize that this is a blurred line these days. If you think that your build belongs in the homemade forum, post the writeup there. If a moderator feels that this needs to be changed, we will let you know prior to the start of voting.

What constitutes a writeup?

A writeup is primarily composed of written instructions and pictures to help illustrate various portions of the build. A writeup in this basic format is necessary in order to be eligible to win a prize; you can't just post a picture and a short description of the finished blaster.
If you are using 3d printing as a construction methods, please provide stl files. Provide cutting templates and/or detailed measurements if you are machining parts from sheets of plastic,etc.

Post-build guides showing closeups of the completed internals alongside detailed instructions are fine, but may not score as high as something that shows step-by-step instructions.

Computer-generated diagrams like this are great, but you should also include at least a few photos to show that you actually built the blaster.

A video can at times be helpful in getting your point across, but it should not be relied upon; most of the information should given in written form. Note: If you like making modification videos, you can always take screenshots from your video and use those for the writeup.
I already posted a picture/video of a blaster here or elsewhere. Can I make a writeup for it and enter it into the contest?
Can I make an HPA-powered blaster?
Can I use 3d-printed parts in my modification and/or 3d-print a homemade?
Yes, any construction method is allowed. But please include stl files or anything else you are willing/able to share to aid others in reproducing your blaster or continuing development on it.