just to let you know this was discovered a LONG time ago :My thread

Well I am actually glad someone else spotted it, like I said I'm not claiming any sort of credit. I'm sorry I don't really check into other nerf community forums (I'm admittedly biased toward nerf haven) so I had no way of knowing you commented on it first over there, but it doesn't surprise me, and those are some good pics of nerf guns props in various shows!

In my casual lurking on this forum I hadn't noticed it pop up as a topic so I figured I'd start one. Making replica props isn't something I do, but I do like seeing what the other creative minds on here can do. See the Modification and Paintjob Pictures thread I started a few years back that seems to be just a wee bit popular.

That being said any of you out there get around to making a copy of the prop guns from Terranova put it up in the mod and paintjob thread, I'd love to see how it turns out!

So I have been watching Fox's new scifi show, Terranova and noticed that the 'sonic' hand guns they were using are awfully familiar. Yep they are using the good old nightfinder as the core of the on screen prop. Did a little google search and found someone who has already done a build on it, so I though I would share the link to someone else's hard work in case there are fan of the show who want to do their own: http://www.therpf.co...utorial-130094/

Hmm like a mav but with one less shot, inverse plunger and cocking mechanism like the recon and another faux barrel. Looks like the mounting for the stock is the same as the Recon, but the folding stock is off center. This makes adding a power tube to the stock perhaps more difficult.

Yeah I'll stick with the Mav for now. I'm guessing the price tag on this with be significantly higher than a Mav, because of the accessories that won't really add to the performance. Cute but not really adding anything performance wise.

It's because we have a code of conduct, and partly because we expect people to take the time to learn the rules and read. If you are new, spend a good few weeks reading some of the back logs of posts and learn the ground rules.

There isn't a bias against people who are new to the site and hobby (i.e. newbies) if they pay attention to what the CoC says. What we don't like is immature, and ignorant despite being given a heads up in writing (i.e. newbs).

Yes Talio is a bit of a Pitbull, but that's what he's here for. Rumor has it though, if you do what your supposed to and play nice he can be all nice and cuddly, just like a puppy, honest!

I worked extensively with carbon fiber both as tubing and as sheets. When it cracks/breaks/fails, it becomes razor sharp. If however (as mentioned by ... dang it doesn't scroll up enough for me to quote someone) it's wrapped in something else it would be far less likely to fail catastrophically ("gee, I'm sorry it took your arm off, it was wrapped in foam..."). Although wrapping it up extensively would offset any lightweight advantages, so you'd have to design with some degree of fail-safe and still maintaining a level of fun (what, the 20 pound foam sword isn't heavy enough?).

I digress though, good job on reinforcement. Next we'll have classes on spinning the sword so violently so as to block all incoming foam. Muhahaha, wouldn't that be an awesome sight (or not)?

I to have worked with carbon tubing of the type I posted in my link, and when it has cracked it has never become "razor sharp". Rather I've seen it look more like a pulverized fiberious vine. So I don't know what you are talking about. This is not epoxy coated carbon fiber, which might be what you are used to working with.
Wrapping it in a layer or two of electrical tape or inserting it into some PEX tubing will hardly add weight at all, we're talking a few ounces here. The another reason I used PEX tubing on my particual project was to allow it to fit in the sword without rattling around so much, as well as to increase safety.

The main reason I have advocated for use of Carbon fiber tubing is the fact that it is far more durable than wood, lighter weight metal, and far less dangerous than either if it breaks. I'm just waiting for Cheez's sword to be thrust into someone hard enough to cause the wood to splinter, break sharp poke through the foam and gouge someone's eyes out. Let's face it is's a toy sword, people, especially teens (cause I know I would have back inthe day) are going to hit harder with it than they should.

Yea, I've had to switch to cheap wood for cost reasons anyways, the steel rod was WAY to expensive. Another contributing factor was that my parents wouldn't allow me to buy the steel anyways. Will get pics in about 5 minutes.

need to find my camera cable....

Sigh, you tell people how to do something properly and detail the right materials for the job and they don't listen.

Wood is just as bad an idea as steel rod. Where steel rod has strenght and durability, it also is inflexable and will probably tear right through your foam when you start thrusting with it. With wood (cheap wood at that) you run a differnt risk, namely that the wood will crack, or snap, tear through your foam and puncture someone's skin. I hope you at least wrapped it in duct tape or electical tape to provide some sort of sheathing to keep your dowel in one piece if it does snap.

The reason I reccomend carbon fiber tubing is because it is not only light and strong, but it won't snap and splinter dangerously especially if you sheath it in another material.

If you want a quality foam sword I present to you several options.

1. Build one following guidelines for various LARPS/ SCA guide lines. A quick google search should help. I've made them out of PVC, pond noodles and duct tape much like this one..

2. Buy one from a site like strongblade I really like the cutlass I got from these guys, the foam is dense and the tip will flex but not fold in half and is safe to stab with. Another shop is knighthawk Armoury

3. Rebuild a toy one like the nerf swords or this one from Amazon.com which I have modified before. I had to cut around the handle and pull out the plastic core and replaced it with carbon fiber tubes sheathed in PEX tubing. Have the tubing overlap the carbon fiber rod a little and seal it in with hot glue, insert back into the blade and handle. I also reccomend treating the entire thing with several coats of plasti dip, and adding stiffer foam to the end to prevent injury. If should be noted that stabbing with this thing isn't reccomended as stabbing weapon because the foam will fold.

Personally the cheap option is to make a boffer rather than refurbish a toy one. Rebuilding the toy one however is a nice way to improve what you already have. But if you want something you can wack and stab at people without worrying about hurting them there are some as affordable as this one. Yes that's almost double the Marauder sword, it's safer and more durable.

Like I said I really like the one I got. It has taken quite a beating and is still in as good a shape as when I got it.

It looks like you could mount an additional spring behind the reverse plunger, but then again it depends how much space is there while primed. That'd be the frist place I'd look to mod it after removing AR's.

Very clean, very nice. As for the ranges, well you used brass, which is great for pump and valve based blasters, but not as great for plunger guns. Barrels that have higher friction allow the plunger to push further and build up more pressure before the dart starts moving, thus creating more velocity.

If you can either add some tightening rings, or a small length of CPVC at the base you may find improved performance.

Yes it is a monoblast, and it's a nice little gem of a gun. Before the TTG or the NF came out, it was my second favorite nerf pistor, right after my LnL. I have a lot of good memories of the pair of Mono blasts I had back in the day.

Works great if you cut down the dart peg and nest a new barrel inside the stock one, and add some decent rubber bands or mini bungee over the handle on the plunger.

Did anyone else notice the design of the stock. Like the Recon and LS it holds a clip, but it looks to me like it holds it off to the side rather than the center of the stock like we have seen with previous clip blasters. It kind of looks like a fender to me, like on an old style car. If it has the same setup on both sides, that means it can carry 2 clips for reloading instead of just one. Not a major innovation but a nice little upgrade none-the-less.

In terms of plunger style, I see more design elements of the LS than the recon/raider set up. It appears to have enough space to house a LS style plunger, and the priming handle is the same. It would seem silly to have those similarities only to have an internal reverse plunger. We already have on recon redesign, it seems most likely that this is the the LS turn.

@Seven7h Man, the night finder has a good range stock, especially the 1st Gen. The load and fire style blasters tend to require less air to perform as well as the clip style weapons because of more efficient use of air, less dead space, and a better seal between barrel and plunger tube. The LnL, NF and TTG are some of the best examples of that simple and effective design.

If you want to improve the N strike swords, replace their cores with a carbon fiber rod, preferably sheathed in some vinyl tubing. This will make it more durable. You can find carbon fiber rods in hobby stores. Or you could buy a high quality boffer weapon and have something even better than the N-strike swords and that will last a lot longer.

Strongblade.com No it's not nerf, but it's still foam and good for hitting your friends.

Just fyi I bought this one.

Jspec07 is actually showing some thought, which is more than a lot of new guys you see on here. That and he admits he doesn't have all the variables down. So Jspec, don't worry about getting ripped on, think of it as constructive criticism.

Here are my 2 cents (more like a buck 50 in this economy).

Way back when I first started modding in 2000, I tried to make a barrel that had the exact same volume as the plunger tube in question. What I found is that it sucked. I cut an inch or two off and viola it kicked ass. Usually that's all you got to do to get close enough to an ideal barrel length. Start too long on purpose and cut down until it works great. It tends to be faster than doing the math for which you need data that is hard to calculate anyway. But if you can figure it all out, more power to you.

On the push pull thing, folks it's 2 sides of the same coin The energy to move is imparted to the dart from the higher pressure air behind it, but at the same time what allows that energy to move is the fact that on the other side is a lower pressure atmosphere which is in essence pulling that energy out of the barrel to equalize the system. So really the air behind the dart is what is getting pulled, the dart is just along for the ride.

Other factors that play into barrel physics, as mentioned by someone earlier, friction, which can be both a friend and enemy to optimization of barrel lenght. In a spring powered blaster you want high inital friction, followed by low friction further down the barrel. High fiction allows pressure to build up as the plunger compresses the air behind the dart before it starts to move. Once the dart starts moving you lose that compression and therefore energy. Once the dart starts moving however, you want as little friction as possible while still maintaining a seal in the barrel to minimise the energy lost to drag inside the barrel.

On a valve based gun all the pressure is built up before pulling the trigger so a barrel that is just tight enough to keep a good seal around the dart is ideal for the entire length of the barrel.

Which brings me to my last point, maintaining a seal with your dart in the barrel prevents the higher pressure air from escaping around the sides of the dart, and therefore maximizes the energy imparted to your projectile. Your darts should never be loose in your barrel, and should be just tight enough to maintain a seal, but not so tight as to cause a lot of friction.

Which as stated by Darth Freyr putting a hole in the back of the dart helps maintain a seal. Foam is stretchy and what a hole does is create a pocket that the high pressure can push against to seal the back of the dart against the walls of the barrel, and creates a better seal. The loss of inital pressure should be minimal if the hole isn't very large, that is, it doesn't go more than say a quarter inch into the back of the dart.

You are however quite right that dead space matters, putting a dart closer to the source of pressure maximizes the energy that is transfered to it. Well designed breaches do this, though some sacrifice ideal placement for increased rate of fire, especially if they have a clip attached. RSCV clips have similar issues, but again you get more shots between reloads so it just depends on what you need as a nerfer.

What this boils down to is that barrel length will never equal the point at which the would pressures equalise in an ideal system. Rather it will be shorter than that, due to friction, dead space and imperfect seals.

So while it might be weak, I think if you bypass the speaker you can get around the warning it gives off. Open it up disconnect the wires going to the speaker and connect them to eachother removing the speaker from the circuit. Then you might possibly have a marginally effective mine if you combine it with the trip wire idea from the original topic on this thing.

If you want a mid range, light support rapid fire weapon the best options are the RF20 and Magstrike/Iron Man NRP blasters:

RF20

Magstrike

Iron Man NRP

These are all fairly compact with a high Rate of fire, and decent range and good mod potential if you want to get into that route.

Of the other options that you could considerVulcan, Raider both hold a lot of ammo, but are likewise both underpowered. The firefly and recon has less ammo still and is again underpowered.

A highly modded longshot with the Raider's drum magazine might be useful but that's getting into building a primary weapon.

If you really want to get into primary land take one of these babies and do this and that to it. That should give you more than enough range, and a fairly fast rate of fire, and more then adequate ammount of ammo as well as quick reloading.

I just want to point out that in general Silicone lubes don't destroy o-rings. It maybe that particular brand is the problem. Check if it contains any petrolium chemicals. Silicone is usually unreactive which is why your orings are made of it, along with breast implants.

Fact: the rate of women with breast caners and implants is not significantly higher than those with out them. proving the safety of silicone in the human body and of course nerf guns: http://www.cancer.go.../siliconebreast

I second the idea for "dart tag" that's essentially what nerf is, you get hit and you are out. Battle isn't good, because it has the same connotation as "war".

Other suggestions to put Nerf in front of: Skirmish, bombardments, volleys, clash, meet, contest, competitions, contentions, fray, encounters, campaign, engagement, sortie. Pick one you like, and run with it.

Out of those I like Nerf Skirmish best, but it's your dealo.

If all else fails put some water through the system, and then apply silicone spray.

I used to have a couple of SS2's, one of my favorite nerf pistols btw, and yes they tend to have leak issues especially after chopping the barrel or removing the dart peg. What you need to do is try to clear any debris that may have gotten into the air chamber, water and silicone may do the trick, but another handy way is to cover your barrell with your thumb, pump up your SS2 and let pressue build up in the barrel as it leaks out the air chamber. Then pull the tigger and quickly remove your thumb at the same time. With any luck this will help blow out whatever is causing the leak. Do this when the gun is dry, before running any liquid through it. It may take a few attempts to clear out, but it usually worked for me back in the day.

I don't like that bar at all. Maybe fiberglass composite around it? Ice, do you think there would be room in the shell for most of the bar to have a couple layers of fiberglass around it?

Try carbon fiber rods, you can get them at hobby stores, the type that sell model airplanes and trians, not hobby lobby. They come in different sizes in solid or hollow tubes. With any luck you'll find something that works

I was in Wal-Mart the other day and saw this new generic dart gun that looks like it is made by the same people who make the splat ball blasters. Any way it fires darts that leave chalk markings where they hit. I found this article about it. Any one try them out yet?

So here's a theory about how the last few darts get pushed out of the big old drum clip. The last two spots in the clip hold some sort of black plastic device that I would bet is a two part follower to push last few darts up. I imagine that when it reaches the end of the drum it flips up into the part that looks like a normal LS or Recon clip, one half staying down in the drum, the other pushing the darts up, and both connected by a spring like that in a standard LS clip. When reloading the clip, you don't rotate the drum til you've pushed enough darts down for the follower to be pushed back together.

That being said, looking at the gun itself, it looks like a Recon with the clip mechanism rotated to the side. The rear of the gun looks like it has a similar plunger set up, but I bet you can put a new spring behind it in the stock with a little dremel work. Not too impressed with the stock ranges from the video, but lets face it the clip is what we're all excited about.

As for the other guns in this thread, the 10 round drum ones look promising especially if air powered, and I wonder what new saftey features will be added to try and thwart our modding efforts. The mystery pistol by shoes and swords puzzels me, but I'd agree that it looks like it may have a pump, and therefore reminds me of the old Super Maxx 500.

Guess I'll just have to wait like everyone else to find out how good these guns are.

Yeah that or even just swap it on a new recon and have an instant spring chamber. no cutting required. I asked for three since I have 3 recons. So I guess we will see.

Not quite I have a new recon and the cover well covers up the exact length of the old ARMED chamber that extends out of the back of the original. I'm pretty sure the kit will basically be this exact cover which means you still need an exterior spring guide and have to do cutting as there is no room for a spring to compress inside this thing. It may how ever make adding a spring easier. I imagine if you just zip off the very back bit (like the last 1/8th inch) and put a PVC end cap on you'd have all the room you need for a spring to fully compress. Heck all you need is a screwdriver, a spring, a saw/dremel some epoxy and the end cap.

No, actually. The Recon V1.1 has a shorter tube. On the 1.0 version, the tube had an extra dead space section sticking off the back end. So the retrofit plunger covers will need to be longer than those that they are using on the V1.1.

That really doesn't change my point. Even if it is longer to cover the original version there doesn't appear to be any dead space for a spring to compress in after watching the video showing the instalation of the repair kit. But you are right, the newer version doesn't stick out as far, they shortened the reverse plunger chamber to the length that the barrel actually pushes back into it.

I've been playing with my original version, and I really can't see how kids could be so dumb as to get their selves caught on the plunger when it is fired. they'd have to press their skin right into the seam and pull the trigger, and even then, how they get seriously injured is beyond me.

Very nice, very silly, and good choices for music. Looks like you had tons of fun nerfing and making the videos, and that's pretty much the point of hobbby. Way to get out there and nerf, well done.

Very nice, very silly, and good choices for music. Looks like you had tons of fun nerfing and making the videos, and that's pretty much the point of hobbby. Way to get out there and nerf, well done.

Yeah that or even just swap it on a new recon and have an instant spring chamber. no cutting required. I asked for three since I have 3 recons. So I guess we will see.

Not quite I have a new recon and the cover well covers up the exact length of the old ARMED chamber that extends out of the back of the original. I'm pretty sure the kit will basically be this exact cover which means you still need an exterior spring guide and have to do cutting as there is no room for a spring to compress inside this thing. It may how ever make adding a spring easier. I imagine if you just zip off the very back bit (like the last 1/8th inch) and put a PVC end cap on you'd have all the room you need for a spring to fully compress. Heck all you need is a screwdriver, a spring, a saw/dremel some epoxy and the end cap.

The concern from this board is that the 150 or so students that were in the room when the shooting happened at NIU is that the sight of the NERF stuff will trigger PTSD flashbacks. Upon talking with some of the students and the department involved, none of the people at the shooting were contacted by the board about this, the board just presumed they weren't healed yet and went ahead and are trying to shut us down.

Ah that explains it. Well you know what they say about assuming things. Ask the board to make the contacts. Explain steps that your group would take to deal with the possibility of running into someone who was involved in the incident. Show that your group is sympathetic to the issue, but also that you have a legitimate organization with a worthwhile team building activity. Stress the positives of playing zombies, the organization and networking required. Games like this allow a lot of people to interact who wouldn't have otherwise. Don't let the board shape the issue in to a single narrow focus, i.e. OH NOES THEY ARE PLAYING WITH TOY GUNS!

If they give you a hard line on Nerf guns, silly string is always a viable option.

I made an observation that I would like to share and I may sound like a jerk for saying it and I am sorry for that. However, something I noticed about America, It seams to have some of the losest gun laws in the western world but also some of the most parinoid people. Has any Governer or Minister or the President (whom ever makes these kinds of decisions) ever thought of tightening said laws. I mean, do you know how hard it is to get a gun in Australia. In fact, I figured I might import a paintball gun, or maybe a paintball gun tank to use for nerfing. Turns out if I try to import any paintball equipment AT ALL I will cop a $10,000 fine and 2 years in jail, minimum.

Naw you're not a jerk, you just don't know about U.S. gun laws. There is a mandatory background check for buying guns, done these days by a computer system. However there are some loop holes, included for people who are licensed as gun dealer and gun shows so it's not a perfect system. As for why any American who doesn't have a felony on their record can buy a gun? It's in our Constitution's bill of rights, the Second amendment protects the right to bear arms. Goes back to our colonial days when we decided to rebel, and much of our weapons were those owned by private citizens. The Revolution wouldn't have been possible without it, and the early government believed to remain independent of tyrannous foreign powers, the individual citizen needed to be able to have access to weapons. It is still a very hot issue in the U.S. and some people do favor tighter controls, while others want even less. So there is a lot of back and forth and individual states have some tighter controls on ownership and where you can carry guns that others.

I was an active member in my own little nerfing/larping club back in my college days, before and after 9/11. We never had any major incidents relating to the use of our TOYS. Now your major point revolves around 'insensitivity' but you aren't giving us any details. Are your players being insensitive to non-players or the other way around?

If it is your player base I have an anecdote for you. One of the things that made my group successful is that any time a non-player came around we stopped what we were doing, answered any questions they had, and were generally polite. It was a basic rule that we had to follow. Generally we avoided disturbing areas that other students were going to be using. Yes our games were 24-7, but we only had big meetings/events once a week usually on Sunday. A day when most students were not in the location we were using.


Now if it is that non-players are not being sensitive to your club, ask why that is. I suggest being strategic about where, when and how you conduct your games. Be ready to take breaks in the action so you don't molest other people on campus. As for defending your game, it's no more risky or obnoxious than a soccer or ultimate frisbee game. Make sure that people clean up their darts. If people don't like the fact that you are playing with TOY guns, avoid getting into arguments with them. Always always always be polite and stay calm. Be prepared to show off your 'BLASTERS' (yeah I still call them nerf guns myself, but like so many things in college wording can be key).

Other things you can do to assure a smooth interaction with non-players is to have mandatory pre-game, during game, and after game briefings to keep people aware of issues that arise from dealing with non-players, and how the players should interact with them. I suggest that before each game you create a multiple choice test presenting some situations that have arisen in the past and the correct way to deal with it. Players should have to pass this test in order to play, as it shows they have a grasp on the consequences of disturbing other people on campus. You should include some examples that deal with your rules too. Just to make sure people understand the rules as well and won't be confused and accidentally cheat or some such thing.

if your cpvc is too tight get a dremmel, and some sort of grinding attachment. Insert inside cpvc and sand it down. If you have a drill you can probably do the same with progressively larger bits. A drill press works best if you have access to one, though you may want to build a rig to hold the cpvc in place while you drill.

Seriously? Who cares. I mean, what possible impact could changing the acronym achieve? This topic is officially useless.

The impact would be nothing more than the ejaculate of this session of mental stimulation. A whole lot of excitement for no real purpose.

It doesn't matter what we call ourselves, NIC is good as anything else you could come up with or better, it's like the old common sense rule; if it ain't broke...

J_Cobbers, if you are basing your information off of what is posted at NerfCenter, then it might be true, but I would believe anything that is posted in the NerfWiki as accurate. Though a Wiki is entirely user submitted data, it is constantly being reviewed by members that have been around for alot longer than most, speaking of which I need to look it over again.

The SplitFire was released in the 1999 sales season which rolls into 2000.

Badger, your darn skippy I used NerfCenter. Hell I was on that thing when it was still actively updated. I'll leave the wiki ta ya youngins, with your fancy internets (IT'S NOT A TRUCK IT'S A SERIES OF TUBES).

imaseoulman relax man I'm only teasing. I only clarified for the points of accuracy, and levity.

I'll be dating myself here, but the SF didn't come out til about my second year of college, and I remember the impact it had in my group of nerfers. That second shot without having to reload, recock or pump really helps.

Okay, the Splitfire is now completely understood, so you can stop chatting about it.

I still don't understand the Sawtooth or the Ratchet Blast. I owned and used both when I younger and I enjoyed them quite a bit. They were both incredibly powerful from what I remember because they had minimal ARs and big-ass springs.

The sawtooth stock wasn't that great, but it was one of the first nerf guns to have a clip for quick reloading, so back in the day that made it useful. It has a good durable frame so you can mod the heck out of it, and I've seen some crazy stuff done with it.

As for the Rachetblast? That my friend is one of my all time favorite guns. It had a unique cocking mechanism, that allowed you to recock it one handed. Four shots, and if you nested some cpvc or other barrel material inside the original barrels you could get excellent range. It is flexible in application, great for a quick rapid volley, or for aimed shots.
The one thing you never ever wanted to do though, is open it up. I made the mistake and it is by far the most difficult nerf gun to reassemble, ever.

The Secert shot 1 is great because you always have the second shot in the handle, or if you mod it you can have as many as 3 selectable barrels up front. Just a solid pistol all around.

The Secret Shot 2 has a bigger air tank than the SM2K/1500, and with a simple barrel replacement and air release valve plugging, is one of the most powerful pistols nerf has ever come out with. A great hand cannon and fun to play with.

The Sharpshooter 2 fun 2 shots, easy to mod, integrate or do what ever. Again has a nice beefy look making it another great hand cannon.

As for splitfires the only thing I can say is that imaseoulman is chronologically challenged, because these things didn't come out til 2000. But other than that yes they rock, though prone to developing leaks.

In the interest of fully exploring your friends assertions answer me this does his 'crossbow' look like The real crossbow is shown in the top two pictures, the big bad bow in the fourth. Tell us which one his looks like and you'll have your answer as to whether he actually has an x-bow.

Now as for where he got it, well that's a whole other issue.

Unless you have access to a ready source of dead markers that would otherwise be thrown away...

When I've worked with Crayolas, I would have preferred dead ones. Guess I should have thought to make a deal with a local daycare center or something. They'd probably trade me a bagful for a couple of packs.

If you want to avoid a big mess when working with 'fresh' Crayolas, buy washables instead of regular permanent markers. They clean up pretty easily for obvious reasons and don't really cost any extra.

I like the recon mod, a very sensible pump action and good use of the otherwise cosmetic barrel extention. You're doing on the cheap what requires a bit more cash and work to achieve with the long shot.

It's about time they sold it solo. The titan as already been sold as an individual unit, and they put the scout in a revision of the tech target. Now the most practical off the Unity power system finally gets it's turn.

http://www.carbonfib...all tubing.html

Sure you can get it in a variety of sizes, it's stronger than most anything else, but it is expensive and must be custom ordered. However I would bet that it makes a stylish and excellent low drag barrel material.

The titan is indeed the exception. It has an absurdly large air tank for what is needed to fire a mirco, as it was designed to fire a much larger foam rocket. I can vouch for 400' not being unrealistic as well, especially at a 45 degree angle and a nice long barrel. Now if Rokor had been claiming a flat 400' range, I'd laugh, but he's not so I won't.

Rokor you don't know squat about the mono blast. This is a case of don't judge the book by the cover.
I used to have 2 mono blasts and would love to have them back again. Add a rubber band or mini bungie, and cut down the internal post that darts fit on and then fit some cpvc inside the stock barrel (some sanding may be required) and you will have a compact power house.

I'd tell you to scrap the big blast and buy yourself an N strike set, cause it comes with the Titan and that sucker is the power house you want to launch rockets with. You'd still want to mod it but the look is better for your larp, and the rockets are bigger as well.

Thanks for the help. You're right if I plug the hole with my finger, I can feel the air pressure build, and then I realease it, and the air comes out, but no crap... I've tried a good 20 - 30 times now, and it dosn't seem to be working. I'm guessing as a last resort I could fill up the broken barrel with hot glue and hope it holds.

Any other ideas? Unless I drilled to far... but I don't think I did.

If there isn't anything preventing the valves from sealing, then the valves themselves may be damaged? How far down did you drill past the white plastic covers? Anything past those you have risked damaging the valve seals. Which if that is the case you may be s.o.l. The only other thingsI would suggest is 1) spraying some silicone lubricant down there, and 2 if you can touch the end of the valves with something like a pencil or chop stick, see if you can wiggle them a little, they may have been bumped out of alignment while you removed the air restriction.

Once again good luck

Forgotten hero (if anyone remembers him) built a ball-valve homemade using a 2-liter for the tank instead of PVC. It worked really well.

I remember that, didn't he also have a spring gun that used a can of pringles?