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Nerf Gra's Content
There have been 88 items by Nerf Gra (Search limited from 28-November 93)
From what I gathered from the McMaster listing that valve should only be able to be open one way or the other. Hence why it is called a diverting valve. Its designed to move (divert) flow around something. So it should only be able to alow flow in one direction OR the other. I realize that buying a new valve would require you to rework effectively the entire system but IMO at least that's somehow better than just getting a new motor.
Also about the cycle speed. I realized like 2 min after posting that that problem could be countered by turning up the pressure as you said. ::insert standard warnings about PVC airtanks here::
Cool design though can't wait to see more of it.
Personally, I wish they still gave us the front gun, if for no other reason than to use its shell to make more NERF-styled pulse rifles. The feel of my old LS with the underslung FG is awesome, even if the FG's internals are essentially worthless.
Regardless, I'd like to pick up a few.
The best part about that is you KNOW people still have front guns laying around. I think there are going to be a lot of under slung panther tanks and the like. I at least have plans to try and fit one in the scope.
Also. I'm not Captain Slug, but it would seem to me that at some point you are going to be rotating it so fast the the "firing tank" won't have enough time to prime before being closed off again. I have no idea if you are even anywhere close to this or not but it could happen.
Something like this http://www.mcmaster....4373k53/=t5lssd
It's comfortable for me, but if you want more hand room you can make the stub between the tee and cap longer. Fill it with hot glue if you're worried about dead space.
Twist fittings aren't safer, but they are better for noobs because they aren't permanent. For example, if you pvc cement your OPRV subsystem to the tank only to find out that it leaks, then the whole assembly becomes useless. But with twist fittings, you can just replace the bad subsystem with a working one.
Thanks that actually helps a lot I was worried about it being supper awkward but that doesn't look too bad.
Threaded fittings also happen to make it modular. For example.
You could make 3 different oprv pieces to make it tuneable for more power.
You can have multiple blasters with slightly different sized tank volumes.
You can have different ammo type/size assemblies.
And you could use the same trigger and pump assembly for every combination of parts.
That is actually my favorite part about this blaster.
The stock specter turret has what amounts to tightening rings in it. The very bottom of the barrel is tighter than the rest resulting in some really great ranges stock. If you can get your 17/32 brass back out try just putting in a 3/8 or so stub of it in the very end and see what happens.
Interesting idea. I like it.
I feel like there is some possibility of the darts bouncing out from the barrels getting knocked around in a pocket and or being drawn fromnl said pocket.
It would also be interesting to know if the darts stay in better when the clips are facing up as opposed to down.
I know no one likes dead space but if you cut your PVC to be about half a dart longer than fully loaded and the open end was facing up then the darts wouldn't be all the way at the top and there for less likely to fall out.
Officially my favorite dickin around blaster. Thing is too much fun to chase people around with.
But due to the very large volume I expect they dont operate at a very high pressure.
This has more to do with the surface area of the pump head than the size of the tank.
Smaller pump head, bigger pressure, less volume.
The fact that you're using a larger pump and a ball valve "trigger" probably cause them to not shoot as hard.
I have never worked on any AT blasters, but I'm a bit confused as to what you meant by the oprv not kicking in. If you hotglued the area behind the oprv, then it wouldn't be able to move and release the air right? Unless there's another oprv on the blaster, the oprv wouldn't kick in after ANY pumps.
The entire purpose of this mod was to keep it closed. He was saying that it was successful. Albeit it was phrased weird.
For me the best part is the diagram you made. I could build the thing just on that one picture. Its perfect. The NIC needs more of that sort of thing. I'm going to build one of these tomorrow.
Edit: this might be silly but how do you actually hold it with your trigger hand? It looks like it would be uncomfortable/ slightly difficult to hold.
Standard basic upgrades.
The Strikefire is actually one of my favorite stock pistols for wars cause it could fire any dart you picked up off the floor.
Idk if you are looking for ideas or sugesttions but a bit of Teflon tape under the o-ring and some lube would probably help you get a bit further. Also if you have access to other springs a replacement would be helpful.
Do you have to manhandle the balls to get them in?
Um its loosish. I'd say airgun fit. Closest comparison is log home white foam in schedule 80. Some of the smaller balls could nearly fall through. Compared to that the iron pipe is a tighter fit but not quite springer.
I'd like to see the spring gun that could fire one of these.
I have an idea for a rscb that should be easy BUT I feel like it would need so much more air that I have to use a different blaster/air source. I need to find a cobra somewhere just too test crap with. Or build a PVC tank but I don't really want too lest the PVC safety police desend on me.
What I found was that the best fit around was a 1-1/2 galvanized steel pipe that weighed about 5lbs. Obviously this won't do for a war ready blaster.
The next best fit (which is still really good) was in one of these nifty drain extenders.
They come in a bunch of different sizes and configurations but this is the one I got.
Now that I have a barrel material I have to find something for it to nest in to get it to a common PVC size.
More searching revealed that this tube fits well inside THINWALL 1-1/4. My Lowes carries thin wall PVC in many sizes so this wasn't a problem.
So I brought it home and cut it roughly in half. Because I don't have something like a COBRA that can put out enough air to fire one of these balls out of a 12inch barrel.
Nest that in some 1-1/4 PVC. Needed only a single layer of tape to fit perfect.
Now to get from the 1/2 inch coupler standard on the front of my blasters to the 1-1/4 of that barrel
APPARENTLY My Lowes was out of 1-1/4 to 1/2inch bushings that most people would have used so I had to take an extra step. So I went 1/2 to 3/4 bushing then 3/4 to 1-1/4 bushing. Then all that into a 1-1/4 coupler.
Then added a bit of 1/2 PVC to get back to the coupler in the blaster.
Heres the entire assembly in my BBBB (stock pump and oprv)
And you're done.
Ranges? Dont really matter as this is more of a writeup for the barrel. But....
What I found is both ball size and tube diameter vary SLIGHTLY. So ranges are rather varied as well. With my BBBB I could get anywhere from 35-55ft.
But that's all I really wanted. I just want something to shoot them relatively well and I got it with this setup. However you could do better as I have a relatively large amount of dead space for a singled-style barrel and the RELATIVELY small amount of air in a stock BBBB. I hope to make some sort of multi round barrel assembly in the future, perhaps a Hopper or RSCB will add to this thread if/when I do.
Hope this helps anyone who was thinking of buying these balls but didn't have anything to fire them with. I know this was really simplistic and easy but I only thought it right to go along with the effort to make the site a little more newb friendly.
PS: TO any of the big war hosts out there would you allow something like a cobra or titan tank if it fired these balls in a similar configuration?
I actually threaded the end of the metal rod
cut off the little flaps that usually hold the rod. Which if you are doing this more than likely one or more of them is already broken. Just cut them off down to the gaps.
I Epoxied on a nut (and for the love of God don't use hot glue) to match the threading. (10-32 IIRC) Make sure the nut fits inside the handle bit that the screws go into before you glue it in
Its a good idea to apply the epoxy with the bar threaded in so you dont get any in the threads.
This also makes it so your blaster can sit flat against a peg board if thats how you store your blasters.
Also when you put it on a blaster I like to have the UNMODIFIED side facing me so to cut down on the stress on the nut and epoxy and to reduce the chance of accidentally unscrewing it mid war.
Hope this helps. PM me if you have any questions.
I just found this thread. I live in Richmond VA but I have many friends in the Bmore/DC area I am totally down for coming up for some Nerf shenanigans I could even bring a few friends, all of whom fit the description. Keep me in the loop for when the next one will be
As far as actually building them, why build what you can buy. http://flexpvc.com/c...VC-Distributors
(of a 2/3k, quadshot, RFDG, crossbow etc.)
Thats all well and good but the reason this is fun and a challenge is because it is reversable. If you wanted to start a challenge with 2ks or something youd be in it for more money than I would want to spend on a contest (without there being a sugnificant prize) what are unmodded 2ks going for right now? 20-25? I digress.