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#342089 Nerf War In Richmond, Virginia

Posted by Nerf Gra on 20 September 2014 - 12:44 PM in Nerf Wars

Super fun war. Pistol splats OP. Can't wait for the next one.

#341654 Nerf War In Richmond, Virginia

Posted by Nerf Gra on 01 September 2014 - 08:15 AM in Nerf Wars

I'm there. Can't wait. Should be able to bring friends.

#341069 Beginner's Rainbow Pump

Posted by Nerf Gra on 07 August 2014 - 10:00 PM in Homemades

The Lowes that I have been too usually have thinwall

#341037 Looking for a very high torque gearmotor

Posted by Nerf Gra on 06 August 2014 - 02:12 PM in Homemades

And I applaud you're efforts. Its cool to see someone doing something like this.

From what I gathered from the McMaster listing that valve should only be able to be open one way or the other. Hence why it is called a diverting valve. Its designed to move (divert) flow around something. So it should only be able to alow flow in one direction OR the other. I realize that buying a new valve would require you to rework effectively the entire system but IMO at least that's somehow better than just getting a new motor.

Also about the cycle speed. I realized like 2 min after posting that that problem could be countered by turning up the pressure as you said. ::insert standard warnings about PVC airtanks here::

Cool design though can't wait to see more of it.

#341027 Zombiestrike Long Shot - actual discussion thread

Posted by Nerf Gra on 06 August 2014 - 10:48 AM in General Nerf

Personally, I wish they still gave us the front gun, if for no other reason than to use its shell to make more NERF-styled pulse rifles. The feel of my old LS with the underslung FG is awesome, even if the FG's internals are essentially worthless.

Regardless, I'd like to pick up a few.

The best part about that is you KNOW people still have front guns laying around. I think there are going to be a lot of under slung panther tanks and the like. I at least have plans to try and fit one in the scope.

#341016 Looking for a very high torque gearmotor

Posted by Nerf Gra on 05 August 2014 - 09:42 PM in Homemades

Have you tried finding a lower torque valve?

Also. I'm not Captain Slug, but it would seem to me that at some point you are going to be rotating it so fast the the "firing tank" won't have enough time to prime before being closed off again. I have no idea if you are even anywhere close to this or not but it could happen.

Something like this http://www.mcmaster....4373k53/=t5lssd

#340838 "Freehand" Molded Silicone Domes

Posted by Nerf Gra on 31 July 2014 - 10:48 AM in Darts and Barrels

Parchment paper would probably work better. Its pretty much the same thing only stronger and impregnated with silicone as opposed to wax. Its pretty slippery stuff.

#340506 Airtech 2000 question

Posted by Nerf Gra on 18 July 2014 - 07:00 AM in Modifications

Magstrike pumps are pretty good. And IIRC the pump tube has the same diameter as the at2k pump.

#340350 LAW airgun

Posted by Nerf Gra on 14 July 2014 - 06:50 AM in Homemades

It's comfortable for me, but if you want more hand room you can make the stub between the tee and cap longer. Fill it with hot glue if you're worried about dead space.

Twist fittings aren't safer, but they are better for noobs because they aren't permanent. For example, if you pvc cement your OPRV subsystem to the tank only to find out that it leaks, then the whole assembly becomes useless. But with twist fittings, you can just replace the bad subsystem with a working one.

Thanks that actually helps a lot I was worried about it being supper awkward but that doesn't look too bad.

Threaded fittings also happen to make it modular. For example.
You could make 3 different oprv pieces to make it tuneable for more power.
You can have multiple blasters with slightly different sized tank volumes.
You can have different ammo type/size assemblies.
And you could use the same trigger and pump assembly for every combination of parts.
That is actually my favorite part about this blaster.

#340325 Spectre re-barrel help

Posted by Nerf Gra on 13 July 2014 - 05:31 PM in Modifications

What darts are you using? If you are trying to use stock whistlers or taggers you probably aren't going to be able to get the dart all the way to the bottom of the barrel which will create dead space behind the dart. Try streamlines or homemade darts.

The stock specter turret has what amounts to tightening rings in it. The very bottom of the barrel is tighter than the rest resulting in some really great ranges stock. If you can get your 17/32 brass back out try just putting in a 3/8 or so stub of it in the very end and see what happens.

#340324 Anyone have an interest in Foam

Posted by Nerf Gra on 13 July 2014 - 05:14 PM in Darts and Barrels

I originally said 15 but if someone backed out of 14m can I bump mine to 30?

#340290 Spectre re-barrel help

Posted by Nerf Gra on 12 July 2014 - 07:39 PM in Modifications

I believe I used 17/32

It was like 3 years ago so I'm not 100%

#340286 Spectre re-barrel help

Posted by Nerf Gra on 12 July 2014 - 05:06 PM in Modifications

When I did mine I wrapped a piece of sand paper around a wooden dowel and spun it around in the bore for a while till it got big enough (Giggity).

Its a process and it will take a while just have patience. Its totally worth it.

#340117 Anyone have an interest in Foam

Posted by Nerf Gra on 07 July 2014 - 07:34 AM in Darts and Barrels

I'm down for 15 meters.

#339737 Quick Change Hopper Clip

Posted by Nerf Gra on 23 June 2014 - 06:24 PM in Darts and Barrels

Direct flame is a little hard to control when trying to soften plastic. You might be better off going with a dip in boiling water or something similar.

#339731 Quick Change Hopper Clip

Posted by Nerf Gra on 23 June 2014 - 01:43 PM in Darts and Barrels

PETG shingles also sit reasonably well in the NERF bandolier elastics for an easy carry option.

I like that idea quite a lot. I really like the bandolier or pistols rounds. Would be nice to have more use for it.

#339712 Quick Change Hopper Clip

Posted by Nerf Gra on 22 June 2014 - 09:26 PM in Darts and Barrels

Interesting idea. I like it.


I feel like there is some possibility of the darts bouncing out from the barrels getting knocked around in a pocket and or being drawn fromnl said pocket.

It would also be interesting to know if the darts stay in better when the clips are facing up as opposed to down.

I know no one likes dead space but if you cut your PVC to be about half a dart longer than fully loaded and the open end was facing up then the darts wouldn't be all the way at the top and there for less likely to fall out.

#339658 Shooting Small Bore Ballistic Balls

Posted by Nerf Gra on 19 June 2014 - 02:40 PM in Darts and Barrels

UPDATE: Successfully RSCB'd out of a mad ghost style gun. Interestingly ranges didn't suffer all that much. Possibly due to the amount of air and or dead space. Don't have any pictures yet cause I need to prefect the reloading of the "clip". I am closing on a house tomorrow so it may be a while before I get to it.

Officially my favorite dickin around blaster. Thing is too much fun to chase people around with.

#339627 Clippard valves

Posted by Nerf Gra on 17 June 2014 - 09:32 AM in Homemades

That is true using it between the barrel and tank but it would function well as a blast button for a backpressure tank.

#339613 Telescoping Plunger Tube Blaster (TPB)

Posted by Nerf Gra on 16 June 2014 - 07:07 PM in Homemades

It would seem to me that a more powerful spring could help alleviate some of your problems. It might be harder to prime but if it turns this thing into a monster it would me worth it IMO

#339497 titian barrel size

Posted by Nerf Gra on 11 June 2014 - 09:58 PM in Darts and Barrels

Try one of these. Should be pretty close.

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#339343 Plugging the at2k's pump from the inside

Posted by Nerf Gra on 03 June 2014 - 10:27 PM in Modifications

You don't have to apologize. The write up is good for it being your first post.

#339332 W.W.A.C. (War Worthy Air Cannon)

Posted by Nerf Gra on 03 June 2014 - 03:01 PM in Homemades

But due to the very large volume I expect they dont operate at a very high pressure.

This has more to do with the surface area of the pump head than the size of the tank.

Smaller pump head, bigger pressure, less volume.

The fact that you're using a larger pump and a ball valve "trigger" probably cause them to not shoot as hard.

#339331 raider not catching

Posted by Nerf Gra on 03 June 2014 - 02:49 PM in Modifications

I had similar problems years ago its been so long that I can't remember what I did to get it to work. Sorry the PT pad was my ace in the hole.

#339330 Plugging the at2k's pump from the inside

Posted by Nerf Gra on 03 June 2014 - 02:21 PM in Modifications

I have never worked on any AT blasters, but I'm a bit confused as to what you meant by the oprv not kicking in. If you hotglued the area behind the oprv, then it wouldn't be able to move and release the air right? Unless there's another oprv on the blaster, the oprv wouldn't kick in after ANY pumps.

The entire purpose of this mod was to keep it closed. He was saying that it was successful. Albeit it was phrased weird.

#339319 Plugging the at2k's pump from the inside

Posted by Nerf Gra on 03 June 2014 - 09:49 AM in Modifications

Not sure how well hot glue is gonna hold up over the life of the blaster. It would suck to have that head come apart while pumping.

#339311 raider not catching

Posted by Nerf Gra on 02 June 2014 - 10:21 PM in Modifications

Did you pad the plunger tube? Sometimes if there is too much of a pad the plunger can't push the tube back far enough to catch

#339295 LAW airgun

Posted by Nerf Gra on 02 June 2014 - 05:02 PM in Homemades

I'm not worried about the Tigger pull but merely in hand comfort. I just don't know if there's enough there for my fingers to hold onto

#339293 LAW airgun

Posted by Nerf Gra on 02 June 2014 - 04:28 PM in Homemades

This write up is pretty great. Cool blaster.

For me the best part is the diagram you made. I could build the thing just on that one picture. Its perfect. The NIC needs more of that sort of thing. I'm going to build one of these tomorrow.

Edit: this might be silly but how do you actually hold it with your trigger hand? It looks like it would be uncomfortable/ slightly difficult to hold.

#339247 Dart Tag Strikefire Write Up

Posted by Nerf Gra on 31 May 2014 - 02:32 PM in Modifications

Good write up for a first post.

Standard basic upgrades.

The Strikefire is actually one of my favorite stock pistols for wars cause it could fire any dart you picked up off the floor.

Idk if you are looking for ideas or sugesttions but a bit of Teflon tape under the o-ring and some lube would probably help you get a bit further. Also if you have access to other springs a replacement would be helpful.

#338843 Shooting Small Bore Ballistic Balls

Posted by Nerf Gra on 10 May 2014 - 08:29 AM in Darts and Barrels

I freaking love shooting these things. They are unpredictable in some directions (up and down) but fly fairly straight left and right. They sort of knuckleball through the air. Its really neat to watch. I think these would benefit from some sort of rifling or even hop-up but I'm not sure how to implement either of those as neat as it would be. Its more a fansiful idea than anything. Even if it could be done I'm not sure it would be practical at all.

#338833 Shooting Small Bore Ballistic Balls

Posted by Nerf Gra on 09 May 2014 - 07:56 PM in Darts and Barrels

Do you have to manhandle the balls to get them in?


Um its loosish. I'd say airgun fit. Closest comparison is log home white foam in schedule 80. Some of the smaller balls could nearly fall through. Compared to that the iron pipe is a tighter fit but not quite springer.

I'd like to see the spring gun that could fire one of these.

I have an idea for a rscb that should be easy BUT I feel like it would need so much more air that I have to use a different blaster/air source. I need to find a cobra somewhere just too test crap with. Or build a PVC tank but I don't really want too lest the PVC safety police desend on me.

#338825 Shooting Small Bore Ballistic Balls

Posted by Nerf Gra on 09 May 2014 - 06:07 PM in Darts and Barrels

So I got 2 dozen of Draconis's Small Bore Ballistic Balls and naturally I want to shoot them at my friends. I spent a little time walking around Lowes dropping one of the balls through any and every tube I could find.

What I found was that the best fit around was a 1-1/2 galvanized steel pipe that weighed about 5lbs. Obviously this won't do for a war ready blaster.

The next best fit (which is still really good) was in one of these nifty drain extenders.

Posted Image

They come in a bunch of different sizes and configurations but this is the one I got.

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Now that I have a barrel material I have to find something for it to nest in to get it to a common PVC size.

More searching revealed that this tube fits well inside THINWALL 1-1/4. My Lowes carries thin wall PVC in many sizes so this wasn't a problem.

So I brought it home and cut it roughly in half. Because I don't have something like a COBRA that can put out enough air to fire one of these balls out of a 12inch barrel.

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Nest that in some 1-1/4 PVC. Needed only a single layer of tape to fit perfect.

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Now to get from the 1/2 inch coupler standard on the front of my blasters to the 1-1/4 of that barrel

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APPARENTLY My Lowes was out of 1-1/4 to 1/2inch bushings that most people would have used so I had to take an extra step. So I went 1/2 to 3/4 bushing then 3/4 to 1-1/4 bushing. Then all that into a 1-1/4 coupler.

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Then added a bit of 1/2 PVC to get back to the coupler in the blaster.

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Heres the entire assembly in my BBBB (stock pump and oprv)

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And you're done.

Ranges? Dont really matter as this is more of a writeup for the barrel. But....

What I found is both ball size and tube diameter vary SLIGHTLY. So ranges are rather varied as well. With my BBBB I could get anywhere from 35-55ft.

But that's all I really wanted. I just want something to shoot them relatively well and I got it with this setup. However you could do better as I have a relatively large amount of dead space for a singled-style barrel and the RELATIVELY small amount of air in a stock BBBB. I hope to make some sort of multi round barrel assembly in the future, perhaps a Hopper or RSCB will add to this thread if/when I do.

Hope this helps anyone who was thinking of buying these balls but didn't have anything to fire them with. I know this was really simplistic and easy but I only thought it right to go along with the effort to make the site a little more newb friendly.

PS: TO any of the big war hosts out there would you allow something like a cobra or titan tank if it fired these balls in a similar configuration?

#338703 brass in houston T.X.

Posted by Nerf Gra on 05 May 2014 - 07:15 PM in Darts and Barrels

Most ace stores do free in store pickup for online orders.

#338578 Richmond, Va War

Posted by Nerf Gra on 30 April 2014 - 08:07 PM in Nerf Wars

Wooded area=No mobstacles required! :lol:

It has been a paintball field in the past so it should serve.
Also has the added bonus of being private so no pedestrians no traffic private parking and BATHROOMS!

#338566 Richmond, Va War

Posted by Nerf Gra on 30 April 2014 - 11:00 AM in Nerf Wars

Also in RVA. Totally down for a war. Have 80+ acres of partially wooded church grounds in Chesterfield that wouldn't be hard to reserve.

#322369 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Nerf Gra on 08 October 2012 - 07:42 PM in Modifications

Didn't want to renecro the "longstrike (and longshot?) priming handle reinforement" thread so I figured Id just post this here

I actually threaded the end of the metal rod

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cut off the little flaps that usually hold the rod. Which if you are doing this more than likely one or more of them is already broken. Just cut them off down to the gaps.

I Epoxied on a nut (and for the love of God don't use hot glue) to match the threading. (10-32 IIRC) Make sure the nut fits inside the handle bit that the screws go into before you glue it in

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Its a good idea to apply the epoxy with the bar threaded in so you dont get any in the threads.

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This also makes it so your blaster can sit flat against a peg board if thats how you store your blasters.

Also when you put it on a blaster I like to have the UNMODIFIED side facing me so to cut down on the stress on the nut and epoxy and to reduce the chance of accidentally unscrewing it mid war.

Hope this helps. PM me if you have any questions.

#313617 Dc/Bmore indoor nerfing

Posted by Nerf Gra on 27 March 2012 - 05:13 PM in Nerf Wars

Hello all,

I just found this thread. I live in Richmond VA but I have many friends in the Bmore/DC area I am totally down for coming up for some Nerf shenanigans I could even bring a few friends, all of whom fit the description. Keep me in the loop for when the next one will be

#309418 Nerf Shotgun Comparison

Posted by Nerf Gra on 12 January 2012 - 01:17 PM in Modifications

I think your best bet honestly is to carry 2 different shells with you. One with fewer barrels the other with more barrels. Then find a way to slap them on a titian or some other blaster capable of giving massive amounts of air.

As far as actually building them, why build what you can buy. http://flexpvc.com/c...VC-Distributors

#304369 PAS - Speed Modding Challenge!

Posted by Nerf Gra on 05 September 2011 - 09:54 PM in Modifications

(of a 2/3k, quadshot, RFDG, crossbow etc.)

Thats all well and good but the reason this is fun and a challenge is because it is reversable. If you wanted to start a challenge with 2ks or something youd be in it for more money than I would want to spend on a contest (without there being a sugnificant prize) what are unmodded 2ks going for right now? 20-25? I digress.