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There have been 222 items by arfink (Search limited from 13-June 93)
For single-shot nerf guns, you can jam the mallows into CPVC for a fit that won't fall out too easy, otherwise regular old 1/2" PVC works great too. If you have a high volume air gun you can also shotgun them to great effect by just jamming a bunch into the barrel.
With a little practice I've found they can be fairly usable, but you want to be cautious about squishing them during battle. Squished or otherwise deformed mallows do not tend to fire well, so you also can't just pick them up and shoot them again. Which I would think would make them amazing for playing in the snow, except that cold mallows don't shoot right.
A few things wrong with your post. The shells do NOT come apart easily, unless boiled first at the very least. They are glued and pegged together.
The hammershot spring can also be precompressed by placing a segment of cpvc on the rod, and doing so will not have that great of an impact on overall comfort.
Otherwise, good post.
Oh, I meant to imply the shell would be easier to paint once they were apart, not that they were easy to get apart. My bad.
As for the spring, I actually did try a chunk of [k26] but even just getting it in there made me nervous, so I pulled it out and forgot about it.
@Velveeta: I don't have a specter, but I'd be willing to get out the calipers and measure the cylinder for you if you like.
The shell is composed of 3 pieces which are held together very firmly and makes for an impressively heavy and solid feel. I didn't attempt to get them apart, but it looks like they will come apart for easier painting.
The cylinder lifts right out, and removing the pegs would be a piece of cake. I didn't remove them yet, but will get around to it when I'm ready to rebarrel this. Also note the screw inside the cylinder indexing mechanism. You can remove this screw to gain access to a spring-loaded mechanism that causes the indexing mechanism to slip if you twist the cylinder while the blaster is cocked. On the Maverick people liked to glue this kind of mechanism into one solid piece to remove slop. However, I found that this mechanism has hardly any slop at all compared to the Maverick, and given how slim the indexing tab looks, I wanted to leave that functionality in place so I don't accidentally bust the indexing tab off. YMMV, but hey, the screw is there, so you can play with it on your own blaster.
The AR is built into the plunger tube, and is remarkably easy to get off. You first need to remove the main spring from the handle of the blaster, which you can get off by wiggling the arm it's attached to. It should slip right off. Note the orientation of the spring: one end is fatter, and that is the end which must face downwards when you reinstall the spring.
Once the main spring is removed, you can remove this white cover. This cover holds the trigger and sear in place, as well as a small spring to return the trigger. The sear has a projection that bumps into a white rubber bumper on the cover piece you just removed. This bumper is very cool, and will prolong the life of your blaster once the AR is out, by helping to stop the plunger head before it smashes through the more delicate front portion of the plunger tube. Remove the trigger, trigger spring, and the sear assembly. This will also remove the plunger head from the tube, allowing us to remove the plunger tube.
The tube is held in from the back by a small white tab. You can squeeze the outer white plastic shell or pry with a screwdrives to give this enough clearance to slip out. There is a second tab which will also get stuck on this same spot, just squeeze or pry again to slip the second tab out as well. Once the plunger tube is removed, you can remove the front of the tube and the air restrictor.
I found that it is very difficult to remove this part without cracking or leaving stress marks on the white tabs holding it in place. However, the front part doesn't actually bear the brunt of the plunger head, so the connection doesn't need to be rock solid. Once you have it off and remove the spring and AR piece you should probably glue it back on, unless your tabs are not totally smashed to heck, in which case you can just use the clips. There is a white thing inside the plunger tube that holds the AR assembly, however, I chose to leave this in place to preserve some of the structural integrity of the plunger tube, since it seems rather thin. Also, it is very important that when you put the orange part back onto the plunger tube that it is facing the same direction that it was when you removed it. Make a note of the correct orientation or the seal with not line up with the cylinder!
To finish, assemble everything again in reverse order, and insert the spring last. Again, make sure you put the fat part of the spring facing the bottom of the handle.
Ranges did not really seem improve that much by removing the AR in this blaster, however it did provide me with a couple of nice advantages. First, you'd need to remove it anyway to fire slugs. Secondly, the AR makes the cylinder rotate less smoothly, which can cause the indexing mechanism to not quite perfectly align with each shot. I find that with the AR removed, dry firing is not as great a risk to the blaster internals, due to the rubber nub which stops the sear from moving, rather than stopping the plunger head against the plunger tube. The stock seal seems very good, and I have no plans to modify it. I'll post more information when I have successfully rebarreled the cylinder, which will probably provide the most significant increase in usefulness for this blaster.
There is also a good amount of space behind the cylinder which could conceivably allow for a rear-loading modification, however, given how short the barrels are and this blaster's role as a secondary, front-loading shouldn't really be a draw-back.
I understand your frustration, but I should have probably been more clear in my OP. I am specifically looking for places which supply 1" FBR of known good quality for the making of mongos. I know FBR doesn't vary that much, but some brands of 1/2" aren't as good as others, so I'm hoping those who have actually made mongos can weigh in a bit. Sorry for the confusion.
That said, thanks for the suggestion, and if I can't find out what others have used to make mongos out of, I'll likely try one of those.
Does the pully help decrease the draw strength needed otherwise by a 'straight pull?
What happens to the 'slack' of the cable when it's primed?
I think that the pulley's main advantage is that you actually get a reduction of friction from the rolling action of the pulley, as opposed to just dragging the cable over a bolt.
Did you cut down the barrel material or leave it the full length? I've also found that the Titan "stock" pressures can vary wildly. My blue one is usually 50-60 feet, where the slightly leaky red one is about five feet less.
I haven't really cut anything down yet, other than to remove the black threaded end. It's actually a bit too long ATM, but I have just been testing it. My attachment solution was to slide a chunk of 1" PVC over the barrel, and then stuff that into a short segment of the original threaded barrel part of the titan, securing it into place with several wraps of e-tape. Super ghetto, but it was easy and temporary. I have a special custom-built launcher in the works for these rockets which will be based loosely off the internals of the Mortar Pistol things from China.
For the quality of the rockets, it doesn't get a whole lot better than this. The fins are nice and thick and very solidly attached, and it has enough heft to really pack a punch if I had a blaster powerful enough to really push it.
Something else to note- the plastic sleeve inside doesn't cover the entire length of the noodle, but leaves a 1/2" or so ring of exposed noodle foam at the base of the rocket. This fits more tightly on the barrel, and provides some friction to compensate for the slower airflow of some blasters. If I was putting these on a blaster with a quicker valve type I might shave some of this foam off to reduce friction even more.
If your Nerf gun's hard tank is running over 80 PSI there is something very very seriously wrong with your design. Like, face-destroyingly wrong.
I built a JSPB with a PVC air tank and a bike pump. I even did a "throw it off the second story onto concrete while pressurised" test and it held just fine.
But I would agree, if you're planning on using an air compressor other than a hand pump maybe you shouldn't be using PVC. But maybe you shouldn't be playing Nerf with it either.
Anyways, I'm off topic now. Nice work on the mod. I do wonder how heavy it is. Is it difficult to handle that blaster because of the weight? I would think that the drill battery location would help balance the thing, since normally the AT20 winds up being top heavy.
EDIT: I just realized that your implementation could inspire: mounting the two AT20's with the bottoms together instead of sides together, which would orient the flywheels the right way. I might have to try that now.