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#340280 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by ACnerfshop on 12 July 2014 - 04:05 PM in Homemades

My homemade "drop fire" Nerf Mortar

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Video:



#337441 MEGA Magnus Paintjob

Posted by ACnerfshop on 06 March 2014 - 06:38 PM in Homemades

Hold on one motherfucking second. Is your name Luke Fluger? Nevermind what you claim your name is, that's the site that belongs to a man who steals pictures of mods and claims them to be his own work. We blocked you on Nerf Modders Welcome, anyone else who saw the incident can back me up on this.


Awhile ago on reddit there was a thread that popped about him stealing other people's pictures and claiming them as his own, but I don't know if anyone has bought a thing yet. He used to have dormlab pictures of stuff he was selling so I would be very wary.



#337244 Pressure Range of Blasters

Posted by ACnerfshop on 23 February 2014 - 07:07 PM in General Nerf

AC, keep in mind that many war hosts have stated that air-powered blasters are to be empty at the beginning of rounds, and would require pumping at that time. Pre-filled tanks are generally not allowed to circumvent that requirement. This will all depend upon the hosts, though.


I was not aware of that rule. I guess it will be more of a "shits and giggles" type of the blaster, but I still want it to be war legal (as in range and power) for any hosts that don't require an empty tank at the beginning of a round.



#337236 Pressure Range of Blasters

Posted by ACnerfshop on 23 February 2014 - 05:25 PM in General Nerf

I have a 20 PSI McMaster OPRV on my Big Blast and it added range. I'm guessing stock BBBB PSI is ~15.


Ok, thanks for the information. I guess I will have to adjust the pressure to what seems about right and to keep it war legal.



#337233 Pressure Range of Blasters

Posted by ACnerfshop on 23 February 2014 - 04:44 PM in General Nerf

For the first Reg that goes from 4500psi - 50psi I'm using a RAP4 AG1 Air Regulator (about $70 depending on where you buy it). For the 100psi - 0psi I'm using a Cal Hawk 1/4" Inline In Line Brass Air Regulator (about $7 depending on where you buy it). For my HPA tank I'm using 68 ci 4500 psi carbon fiber tank. I have a more expensive tank because it's much nicer than the regular aluminum 3000psi tanks and I do go paint-balling occasionally.

Thanks for the other information. Unless someone else has actual data on the specific tanks I will likely use 30psi for the Big Blast and Range Master.



#337231 Pressure Range of Blasters

Posted by ACnerfshop on 23 February 2014 - 04:11 PM in General Nerf

I am working on making an HPA system that can be hooked-up to a variety of blasters. I have taken all the necessary precautions. The rig uses air, not CO2. I have a reg that goes from 4500psi - 50 psi and then another reg for anywhere from 100psi - 0psi.
Edit: I also have an OPVR that I can adjust anywhere to 20psi - 100psi.

No matter where I looked, I was unable to find any information on the stock PSI that a Big Blast, Buzz Bee Range Master, and Nerf Rapidfire 20 use. I don't plan to use anymore pressure than stock to keep them war legal and to not over stress the parts.

I've only been able to experimentally find the stock pressure of the Supermaxx 1500 which is around 30psi.

Any help from people with more knowledge of the stock pressures that the above blasters use would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance!



#336840 What's a good replacement?

Posted by ACnerfshop on 03 February 2014 - 05:53 PM in Modifications

If you're willing to shell out a bit of money you could always try to contract roboman for an aluminum 5k tank. I thought I saw one of his posts about them a while back, but I'm not really sure.



#335937 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by ACnerfshop on 14 December 2013 - 07:52 PM in Modifications

Triple Cylinder Maverick
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Two Crossbows
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1 1/2" Plunger Tube, AT2K Integration
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1 1/8" Plunger Tube
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#335752 Where is Nerfomania?

Posted by ACnerfshop on 02 December 2013 - 01:11 AM in Homemades

Do you mean NerfOmania? If so, I know he is more active on Nrev so you could try to contact him there. Also if all else fails you might want to try and contact Bobololo since they are friends in person and he might be able to get a hold of NerfOmania for you. Other than that, I'm not sure what else there is to do since I believe the time to open a PayPal case has passed.



#332050 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by ACnerfshop on 17 July 2013 - 07:31 PM in Modifications

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I replaced the motors with the Solarbotic motors suggested by 0reo so it's meant to be used with the stock voltage.



#324169 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by ACnerfshop on 06 December 2012 - 01:27 AM in Homemades

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The trigger is still provisional and I will be adding a handle at some point, but it works!



#324168 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by ACnerfshop on 06 December 2012 - 01:23 AM in Modifications

NF Rifle 3.0
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I tried to take the advice people gave me on the 2.0.
The 3.0 features:
- Skirt Seal
- Almost No Dead Space
- Full Length [k26]
- Aluminum Side Plates (Good idea, but not worth the effort)



#322473 [Northern CA] Planning a Nerf War!

Posted by ACnerfshop on 11 October 2012 - 10:01 PM in Nerf Wars

Generally you want to avoid open fields, like you said you want obstacles; cover and/or trees, places to dodge darts. Or else you wind up threatening to shoot each other from just outside your range. I've been there and done that. The best wars I've been to, socal wars, were hosted at schools. Corners and corridors make things much more practical.


That's what I assumed, but I've seen many Nerf war videos where they have open fields. If we were to use an open field we would probably have to make mobstacles (sp) or something of the sort.

I've actually hosted around 4 wars with just some friends (maybe 15 people max) where we went to the Social Science Building on the UCD campus (aka Death Star) which is basically a concrete fortress perfect for lower range Nerf wars. Unfortunately some angry student threatened to call the cops if we hit anybody so just to play it safe we left. Even though we were there late Sunday afternoon attempting to avoid people.



#322432 [Northern CA] Planning a Nerf War!

Posted by ACnerfshop on 10 October 2012 - 11:46 PM in Nerf Wars

I agree with Righteous_Fondue, allowing titans while banning homemades is just ridiculous. I probably wouldn't be attending the war without homemades as those are the only decent blasters I own. That also begs the question of what counts as a "homemade" i.e. Tornado Bow, NF Rifle?

Also I'm not sure about the likelihood of me being able to go to a war in Roseville. If I(or another person) could host in Davis: Northstar Park would be an excellent place as it has a large open field. There is a small parking lot right next to the field that would be plenty large for us. We would need to figure out/make obstacles, but other than that it should work well. It also would probably work better for many DUGG members as they're closer.



#322069 [Northern CA] Planning a Nerf War!

Posted by ACnerfshop on 27 September 2012 - 11:38 PM in Nerf Wars

There's a group from UCD


If I remember correctly they only allow people 18 and older to play which unfortunately I am not 18 yet. It really sucks since I live in Davis and can't join the DUGG because I'm not old enough.



#322062 [Northern CA] Planning a Nerf War!

Posted by ACnerfshop on 27 September 2012 - 09:49 PM in Nerf Wars

We would be interested in going if you host one but we're pretty busy though so I'm not sure we could make it. It would most likely work best for us during either Thanksgiving Break or Winter Break, but no promises. I'm wondering if you know what age group would most likely be attending and what restrictions on blasters/ammo you are planning on having.



#312390 Nite Finder Rifle 2.0

Posted by ACnerfshop on 04 March 2012 - 01:26 AM in Modifications

Best method?
http://www.nerfhq.co...13564#msg113564
http://www.nerfhq.co...11177#msg111177
http://www.nerfhq.co...09232#msg109232
http://www.nerfhq.co...g89366#msg89366
http://www.nerfhq.co...g78267#msg78267

And those are just my methods, I don't think you can claim a "best method". The best method is whatever method that the individual person is capable of doing, not everyone has access to mcmaster/ able to order off the internet.


I did say "our best method" not the best method. I agree the best method is the most effective method the individual is capable of doing.



#312292 Nite Finder Rifle 2.0

Posted by ACnerfshop on 02 March 2012 - 11:51 PM in Modifications

THIS IS AWESOME! i loved your first nf rifle and now you made a second version but cleaner and better. but one thing concerns me. why did you cut down the spring? is it for less draw weight? and it must be killing your ranges right? but i still want to make this awesome gun. and where did u get the nylon rod. i heard its much better then 3/8 pvc square rod that you used in your original video on youtube


I cut down the spring because the NF Rifle has been shortened overall since the first version. It still has pre-compression and gets near full-compression and I haven't seen much of a decrease in performance at all. The Nylon rod was purchased from Mcmaster. Item#: 8732K13



#312287 Nite Finder Rifle 2.0

Posted by ACnerfshop on 02 March 2012 - 11:13 PM in Modifications

Nite Finder Rifle 2.0

Introduction:
We built our first Nite Finder Rifle just under a year ago have built quite a few since. Over time we have improved up on our design and this is our most current to date

We understand this modification is not new and has been completed by many others long before we first attempted it. We’re just sharing our best method thus far in hope of helping any others who want to attempt a Nite Finder Rifle.
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Materials:
- (8”) 1” I.D Polycarbonate Tubing
- (8 ½”) 3/8” Square Nylon 6/6 Rod
- (1) [k26] Spring
- (½”) Catch Spring
- (1) ½” PVC Coupling
- (1 ¼”) ½” PVC
- (3) ½” 6/32 Machine Screws
- (2) 3/8” 6/32 Machine Screws
- (2) 1” 6/32 Machine Screws
- (1) Zip Tie
- Goop / Other Sealant
- PVC Glue / Primer
- LubricantTools:
- Screwdriver(s)
- Dremel
- Drill / Drill Press
- Pipe Cutters
- Scissors
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Band Saw / Scroll Saw / Jig Saw (Recommended)= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Step 1: Disassembly
Unscrew the Nite Finder and remove the plunger system. This will be necessary during shell modification to prevent the loss or damage of the internals. The plunger tube and spring can be omitted.
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Step 2: Shell Modifications
First remove the area shown below, I prefer to use a Band Saw, but a variety of cutting tools will work.
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Then widen the hole shown below with a dremel for the polycarbonate tube to fit. It will remove the screw port. After this all major shell modifications have been completed and may put to the side.
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Step 3: Plunger Tube
Take the 1 ¼” section of ½” PVC and PVC glue the stub into the coupling. The wrap about 13 layers of e-tape or until it has a tight fit in the 1” polycarbonate tube. Apply the goop or your other sealant and push the PVC into the polycarbonate tube.
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While the goop is still setting drill three 1/8" holes equal distance from each other around the polycarbonate tube into the 1/2” PVC stub. Take the ½” 6-32 machine screws and secure the coupling. These will also act as a dart stop.
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Screw the shell together and take the plunger tube assembly and slide the end without the coupler into the shell. Drill a 1/8” hole on either side near the front end of the Nerf logo as shown. Make sure to note the correct orientation of the plunger tube from here on.
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Step 4: Plunger Rod
Now take the 8 ½” section of the 3/8” square nylon rod and measure 2 ½” from one end. Cut the catch notch as shown.
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Next drill 1/8” holes about ¾” deep on both ends and using the 1” 6-32 machine screw secure the plunger head from the stock Nite Finder. Replace or double the o-ring with a few layers of e-tape beneath to improve the seal. (Not Shown)
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Cut down the [k26] spring to 7 ½” then slide the spring and catch onto the nylon rod making sure to orient the catch correctly.
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Cut the plunger handle off the end of the stock plunger rod and drill a 1/8” hole through as shown below. Using the other 1” 6-32 machine screws screw in the plunger handle to the nylon rod.
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Step 5: Final Assembly
Unscrew the shell and put the internals into the shell as shown below. Thoroughly lubricate plunger head and plunger tube. Replace the stock catch spring with about a 3/8” of another suitable spring.
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Screw the shell together then use the 3/8” 6-32 machine screws to secure the plunger tube into the shell.
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Finally drill a 5/32 hole on the top right corner of the shell as shown below. Slide the zip tie through and tighten to secure the front.
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Step 6: All Done!
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Video Tutorial:
(Coming Eventually)
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This is our first write-up so constructive criticism is appreciated! If you have any questions we missed in the write-up we will do our best to answer them.



#310284 Longstrike OMW unleased 1 hand priming

Posted by ACnerfshop on 29 January 2012 - 12:16 AM in Modifications

I've personally used the Longstrike with both the 6kg and 5kg springs. With 5kg the range is slightly decreased, but I was easily able to use only one hand to prime the blaster. With the 6kg I had to use both hands. Although Pump-Action sounds like it would be nicer either way.



#296037 Bay Area Nerf War

Posted by ACnerfshop on 14 March 2011 - 10:49 PM in Nerf Wars

UC Davis has a building known as the Death Star. It's a giant concrete... well... fortress basically. Amazing place for nerf wars, and there will actually be one there that we're hosting on Sunday April 10th (I think).

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youtube.com/ACnerfshop