Writeup: http://nerfhaven.com...tank-internals/

 

The goal of this mod was to keep the Scout looking as stock as possible while having decent power. 

 

Materials

1x Hornet tank

1x Secret Strike Pocket Blaster

1x 1/2" PVC endcap

17/32" Brass

1/4" OD Nylon Tubing

1/4" OD Vinyl Tubing

Zap-a-Gap

Epoxy putty

 

First get a single hornet tank and cut it down like this.

Take the SSPB and cut it like the following. Remove the rubber cap on the blast button. Widen the holes and attach the Nylon stubs. Make sure not to get excessive plastic shavings in the blast button. Glue with Zap-a-gap.

Now scrap all the original scout internals except the trigger and return spring. Dremel it to fit the Tank and pump. You will also need to slightly Dremel the edge lip of the outer slide to accommodate for how the tank slightly rises above the shell.

Position the pump with the slide so that you will get a full draw of the pump without pulling it out when slid all the way back. Make sure the slide also can rest fully forward. Attach vinyl tubing to the nylon stubs. You can put a spring inside to help prevent kinking. Use Zap-a-Gap.Once positioned mark the area and glue down the internals. Make sure some of the airtank is sticking out of the shell as pictured. This is for the endcap.

Next drill a hole in the SSPB pump for a pin to go through. This pin should reach through to the sides of the slide. The pin that was in the Scout should work. Using epoxy putty mold a chunk to hold the pin on both sides like how the stock priming pin worked. Lube the pin when doing this to make it removable. It is important to make the slide have this holding mold on both sides to increase strength.

 

Make sure the epoxy putty does not interfere with the sliding function. Here are some closeups of some of the cuts needed.

Now cut down the trigger and position the blast button. Once you get the ideal position cut the excess vinyl tubing and attach them to the blast button as shown. Use epoxy putty and Zap-a-gap to secure. This is tight fit so you will need to angle the blast button upwards to avoid kinking in the tubing. 

 

With the cut down trigger you have to get rid of the return spring guide so use epoxy putty/zap to secure it. Also make the base of the trigger wider with epoxy putty so the blast button is depressed more reliably. 

Cut segments of 17/32" brass and attach glue them into the original dart holders. 

Dremel the 1/2" endcap to fit the lip of the Hornet tank that is sticking out. Make sure you only glue it to the tank and the side you glued the internals to so that the blaster can be opened.

 

 

Takes 20 pumps to activate the OPRV. Hits 60'-70' flat with #6 slugs and a 6" cpvc barrel.

Video with firing demo around 1:30: https://www.youtube....h?v=JjCdDkO_3KU

Nope I use a 90 degree elbow cut in half to make two Wyes. http://nerfhaven.com...a-homemade-wye/

If you had a scrollsaw you could have used that, but, it came out well in the end. Also, where is polycarb found, cus I have looked everywhere and asked everyone, and I still can't find it. Also I can't find a 1/2 inch wye. I probably will just order it when I get the money necessary for buying them. 

 

-Montymarks

 You can get polycarb off of Mcmaster. You can also make a wye using a PVC Tee and a 90 degree elbow.

I really like the barrel selector mechanism. Very clever. 

 

Out of curiosity, what's your rate of fire with the big blast tank and the HPA system?

 

Takes about half a second for the tank to fill each shot to max power. Can be faster with a better HPA setup with a higher fill rate.

The goal of this blaster was to make a a solid primary with the comfortable Shot blast shell.

 

This writeup is a bit sparse on pictures but it should be enough to use as a general guide.

 

Main Materials

-Shot Blast

-Big blast tank(I used the old larger version)

-1/4" Polycarbonate

-1/8" or so Polycarbonate for trigger

-1/4" Vinyl tubing

-1/4" Nylon tubing

-Male Quick disconnect Adaptor

-1/2" CPVC

-2x 1/2 PVC Wye

-1/2" PVC Tee

-1/2" PVC

-Craft foam or thin rubber sheet

 

 

To open the blaster simply unscrew and pop off the external shell first. Then strip the internal airtank and pump. We will not be using those. 

 

Next is probably the most irritating part of this mod. We need to cut the water tank half of the shell in half as it is molded as one piece. I simply used a box cutter knife and patience. Make sure to cut this smoothly or else it will not close up nicely. Keep the orange cap.

 

 

 

Overview and firing: https://www.youtube....h?v=zJN2o4IME98

 

Full imgur album: http://imgur.com/a/OV0yp

 

X2 Hopper HPA blaster. Super soaker Shot Blast shell. I cut open the water reservoir and made screw ports. The inside is a 1st gen big blast with my X2 hopper system. The blaster is single fire and you switch between barrels with the polycab slide. This allows you to still be able to fire while reloading one hopper. 

 

The dart doors are magnetized.

I was thinking of having an air hose go to an external air tank in my backpack. This would eliminate both the bladder and the pump, as my air tank is filled via a tire valve.

It should be an easy fit then. The swarmfire has tons of space and without having to worry about awkward bladder/pump fitting it should be an easy mod.

Did a count on the supplies I inherited from Taerkitty. Nearly 500 made slugs plus a few of his "experimental" dart types.

Im also thinking about putting together some dart making kits with the excess supplies for folks that want to get into making their own ammo. What would be the interest level for that?

I would be interested in it, mainly for the foam though assuming it has a springer fit in cpvc.

I am still a maybe for the war as I am not sure how my schedule will change yet.

If I do make it I would be interested in buying about 200 slug darts with springer fit in cpvc if anyone is selling. I am moving in for University and unfortunately don't have time to make darts.

Lanard TripleShot with removable Scatterblast integration. More Pictures

Video showing the full build and firing

I just used whatever PETG was at Petsmart. I recommend thick walled though, as there is room for it and it is the most durable.

Edit:Didn't realize you were talking about that little one.

I have the Jet though so here are pictures of that blaster NIB in this album.

There is no sign of the little blaster on the box advertisement.

Pump action Longshot with a front gun integration that has an 2K inside it. Has an improved angel breech, magnetized jamdoor, replaced plunger head,etc. Basically everything you can do to a Longshot. 2K has airflow mods done and fires off a key ring.

Video showing all the details and firing

Old Doubleshot mod I revived. Here is a Video for anyone who wants to see it shoot.

BBB AT2K Integration - The Hazard
More details and firing in the video:

It is like that out of the box. The nub that helps hold the clip in is only in the back, so the magazine slants down in the front half.

Tornadobow I made awhile back. Video for firing and more details

Snapbow MK V with some improvements. Most notable is the polycarb clothespin and trigger. Just wanted to make something simple for my first 100% homemade.













It is all mechanically fastened and removable with the exception of the foregrip mount. Sideplates are just for cosmetics as I always thought traditional Snaps were ugly.

Video for firing and more details

If you hopper it you will not get 100'. I know from experience. My 3k with a 5-6 shot RSCB gets 95' tops. It was even less with a hopper. I would just turret it. It will shoot much better although it is more work.

My Nf rifle with backup At3k tank and rear loading At2k turret.









The NF gets around 100' and the Integration gets 60'-70' flat. The triggers are linked.

Video for firing demo.

Could you just use a 1" rubber washer sandwiched between 2 3/4" washers for the plunger head?

It should in theory but you will have to test it out to see how well it works.

Is the plunger rod Polyethylene (8702K476)?

No, the ones I used were PVC. I would reccommend Nylon or Delrin though. I only used PVC because that was all I had. I have never used Polyethylene.

This mod maximizes the potential of the Tech Target while keeping the stock look. I have tried many other TTG mods such as the standard coupler, single barrel, and MDET but this is by far my favorite method.
Materials

-1" PETG Tubing
-3/8" square rod
-[k26] spring
-1x 1/2" PVC Coupler
-Small segment of 1/2" SCH 40 PVC
-E-Tape
-Packing Tape(Or just use E-tape)
-1x 6/32 Hex Locknut
-1x 2" long 6/32 screw
-2x 1.5" long 6/32 screw
-1x NF plungerhead w/ O-ring or equivalent

Open up the blaster, then cut down the shell on both sides to look like this:




Ignore the small hole there for now.

Now cut down your 1" PETG so that it is about 1mm shy of 7" in length. It should fit in the shell comfortably and be flush with the front of the shell.

Cut a piece of 1/2" PVC and cut it down to about 1.5" Put some sort of adhesive on one side and jam it into the 1/2" PVC coupler.

Wrap it in packing tape or E-Tape until it has a snug fit in the 1" PETG. Pad the end of the PVC with 1-2 layers of craft foam, amd push the assembly into the 1" PETG. Wrap some E-Tape near the back of the 1" PETG so that it has no wobble when you close the shell. Now you want to drill all the way through both sides of the shell with the entire plunger tube assembly together, right where the middle of the PVC is in the PETG. Tap it for 6/32.




Now take your 3/8" square rod and plunger head, push it up to the front of the plunger tube(Coupler assembly inserted) And see how long you want to make the 3/8" rod(Depending on what kind of handle you want).

Drill and tap a 1.5" hole for 6/32" directly in the middle of one end of the 3/8 rod. Attach your plunger head and O-Ring, lube with Silicone grease(I used 2 O-Rings). Pad the front of the plungerhead with 1 layer of craft foam.

Cut a [k26] to 5". This leaves some slack in the front to increase longevity, and reduce kick/noise. If you want you can make it 5.5" to get rid of the slack; but you will need to cut your catch notch farther down than this picture.



Trim the back of the shell and catch to make room for the 3/8" rod. Make whatever handle you want. I used a piece of 1/2" Nylon rod with a 1.5" 6/32" screw attatching it.

IMG]http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a463/greenwing1/Nerf%20stuff/P1220026-1.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a463/greenwing1/Nerf%20stuff/P1220027-1.jpg[/IMG]

Now replace your catch spring with something much stronger. I got mine from ACE.



Goop in the coupler assembly. Make sure the holes line up. Put the rest of the blaster together.





Screw the blaster together. Then put the 2" 6/32" screw through the front holes you made to attach the coupler assembly to the shell. Trim down the screw so there is just enough for your locknut to attach flush with the shell.

Make a speedloader and you are done!





The max draw on these is 4 1/4" with 5" of a [k26] spring. If you get rid of the slack with a slightly longer spring, it will be about 4" of draw.

I added cpvc ammo holders. A 9"-11" barrel workes well.

I am getting around 85'-95' flat with #8, #6 and MIG style slug darts. They are super easy to make and are actually quite durable. They have even survived the hands of 13 year olds in wars.

Firing video if you are interested:

Internals Replaced TTG. Great loaner guns as they are super easy to make and shoot 85'-95' flat with Slugs.
Fun to duel wield.

Video for more details and shooting:

Finished this back in December of last year, finally getting pics up now.
LS Titan integration:








Video

LS shoots around 90' flat with slugs, and the Titan gets around 60'. My first paintjob on a large blaster. Turned out very nice. Made using blasters in my scrap bin.

I have alot more stuff to post, just need to go take some pics.

The OMW spring is already more than enough power. You won't need the power stock, and even if you did I doubt there will be that much of a power increase. There is only so much air that the tiny PT can push. I have not heard of anyone having issues with the priming bar with the OMW spring, so you should be fine as long as you don't add a power stock.

My At3k Raider. Might paint it sometime.




Great primary, holds 5 Stefans and shoot very hard and accuratly. One of my favorite new primaries.

Full Video
Firing

Seeing this post just made my day. Great gun, I will definately be replicating this as soon as I get my hands on a LB and Big blast.

Will you be making a video for this gun so we can see it in action? Also can't wait to see Pearsons contract next.

Nice, this is a very easy writup to follow. How often does it jam compared to an Angel Breech?

Hey, thanks for the quick replies. Any idea where I can get a [k25] spring or am I gonna have to order it online?

You can buy [k25] springs from Mcmaster Carr. Or you can get them from Split if you don't want to buy in bulk. Here

Great job. I love how this can be just as good any Snap in performance, yet so easy and cheap to make. This will definately help me a lot, seeing that I have to always provide all the blasters with the group I usually nerf with(To keep things fair).

I like how u did this but the turret seal could have been better. I would suggest that you try using 3K with PETG barrels for the turret depending on your darts.

I admit there could have been a better solution for the turret seal, but this was all that could work. A Rubber washer adds way too much friction for the turret to work.

If I used a 3k it would get rid of the main point of the turret, which is to have a very high RoF backup.

Its rear loading. Turret shoots about 60' flat with slug darts. Write up is posted.

Post reserved for future updates.

First off let me give credit to numa-t49 because I used his writeup for modding most of the turret. Also credit goes to Windcalmer because I decided on where to put the rear-loading slots on my Berserker by using his as an example.

I still plan on doing many more different mods to this, but the basics are finished for now so I am putting up the writeup. I forgot to take a lot of pics, but you should get the general idea. When I open the gun up again for updates I will take much more pics to add into the writeup. Now onto the mod...

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First open up your Berserker. If you have the older one there is a screw underneath the sticker.

Now carefully remove the airgun/BB part. Now unscrew the rotation mech, and remove it. After that cut down the stock barrel so that when you put your CPVC coupler over the stock barrel(After sanding) you can have it inside your rotation mech. Make sure you put on the back of the rotation mech before you attach the CPVC coupler.





Now glue on the CPVC coupler and put the rotation mech back together.

Side Note: I did this mod on another Berserker but with a PVC coupler also. You will need to widen the hole in the turret and rotation mech for it to work though.

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Now we will start working on the springer portion. Remove the entire springer part from the blaster. Pull out the plunger rod. Now add about a 1/2" of hotglue on the plunger rod so that it compresses the spring fully when primed.



The stock seal was great so I didn't see the need to replace it. Now take the plunger tube and cut off the orange part for the stock turret seal.



It should look something like this now:



Now drill a hole as wide as possible through it. This improves the airflow greatly, helping range. It should look like this now:



Then I wrapped the end of the plunger tube with duct tape until it would just barely still fit in the shell. Then I put a few layers of craft foam on top and made a hole through it for the air to go through. This was done because the stock seal is too small to work if the turret is rearloading.



From the front:



Now we will work on the actual turret itself. My camera died here so I don't have any pictures right now, but I will update this section with pics when I open the blaster up again. However most of this is the same as modding any other Berserkers turret so follow numat-49's write up for making the turret. However make the barrels 3" long and widen the back of each hole so you can rear load it.

Make sure that when you glue the turret together that all the barrels are glued evenly so each barrel makes a perfect seal. If you screw this up it won't work. You will have to adjust the seal by experimenting.

Now its time for the rear loading slot. First remove the stickers that are in the way from the shell. The rest you can probably figure out from the pics.







Now reassemble the blaster. It should look something like this:



Now screw it together, make a barrel for the airgun and test it. It takes a lot of experimenting with the seal to get the turret right, but when you do it should shoot about 60' flat with slugs(How far mine shoots with a decent seal).








Video showing a range test and a firing demo: Linky

Overall I am very happy with the finished product. Rear-loading makes the turret Much nicer to use, and now that it shoots 60' it is much more effective. The airgun works great too. I still have a lot more plans for this and some of the next mods I will do to this are:

-Pump Replacement
-Titan/other airgun integration in the turret
-RSCB the BB

I will update this post once I finish those other modifications.

Very nice mod and writeup! How well do the Streamlines shoot with this breech compared to a stock breech?

Mine doesn't have a sticker on both sides either. It's normal for all these Ultimate system Berserkers.

My hoppered UMB I made about a little while back.

If you want to see if fire:

I really like this. Good job.

Nice job, even though I don't believe in the "Done Right" part.