Like this one?
I'd love to find a nice 3 position rotary switch what I could mount in such a way you can operate it with your right thumb, like the M16.
Or this one?
Jump to content
There have been 145 items by Y-Brik (Search limited from 12-September 93)
Close, but there's also something to be said for original design. Jams did occur, I ended up selling this and getting a Raider when I realized that's what I was basically building (The AT wasn't out yet, and quite frankly I hate the ergonomics of it)
That is awesome. I like how compact it still is, and how it has the light and red dot. It makes the alpha troop look kind of useless at that point.
I knew I was gonna forget something!
Thanks! And you left your ball valve, I can hold it for you, unless you would like me to ship it.
Good to know the Internet hasn't changed
Pay for it yourself.
1. Where did you hear these claims? If it's anything like the umpteen other guns with several generations (LS, Recon, NF), then the range and power difference is something like a foot or less (read-no difference).
I really can't wait anymore to get this big fat gun out of the box but until I got confirmation that my model of the Vulcan is not inferior to any existing model I won't open the box.......
As I recall, a [k26] will not fit. The included spring is already surprisingly strong, chances are decent a Jolt could handle a spring of that strength.
Sorry for the n00b question but, does anyone know if a Jolt can handle a [k26]?
I've read that an ace #62 will destroy it but I don't know if a [k26] will.
Try disabling one of the triggers- keep it constantly pulled back (zip-tie) or clear off the catch notch (the 'nail'). If the priming bars are linked, one catch may just be enough.
I used a nail with the head cut off slipped across the priming handles.
Something linking the triggers might fix that issue and be pretty cool.
Hell yeah, I love the tacticoolness of adding blades to my Recon and making them look like M4s! Hooray for milsim!
I'll probably be flamed for this, but here goes:
Which series of gun would you shoot, Vortex or N-Strike?
I personally like N-Strike better, not because of the distance (which usually sucks) but because of the modularity of all of them (barrels can be swapped, scopes/lights can be added) and their guns are more modern (Recon looks like an M4A1, Element looks like a USP, etc.). How about you guys; Vortex or N-Strike?
Ace # 2 is WAY too strong!
Ace #2 or 3 should be good. Take the dart tooth in and test fit, then cut it to the right size.
No, the Slamfire piece is right, it's definitely the lock/hold-it-forward issue. fyi, before closing it up again it's worth doinf the spring compression mod- a duct tape ring that makes the spring hit full compression when cocked.
The catch isn't working obviously, so maybe the piece under the catch isn't clipped in the right place?
This is where you lost us. It seems you are not another 12-year old who wants a 1337 snypor like he saw in COD, but combustion in a nerf gun...never happens. Look at the recent thread about propane power to understand how squeamish we are about these things.
build replica black-powder firearms with fully functioning mechanisms that shoot Nerf darts...
Cool stuff, man. I like the minimal e-tape usage in combining the parts around the catch. However, you seem to have missed (picture)
It's a Ring Catch Blaster that was posted quite a while ago as you can see, and it utilizes parts readily available in the U.S. Here is mine that I posted a bit over a month ago
//Stuff about differences in designs//
Have fun bringing such a large diameter pump up to pressure- remember pressure is measured in pounds per square inch- to work a greater diamerter pump up to the same PSI you need to pump MUCH harder. That said, a Schraeder valve on the hard tank and an upright bike pump in the staging area may be worth exploring.
4. If you made a HUGE diameter homemade pump and replaced the old one, I think pumping wouldn't be some much of a challenge. I'd use 1 1/2" to 2" pvc, then use Venom's plunger head design. I integrated that onto a SNAP, and it had an almost perfect seal with a little teflon tape on it. The entire gun was retired because the trigger didn't work.
As I recall, a modern washer sandwich plunger head a la Superlative, Preemptive, etc. cost around $2.50, are locally sourced, easier to make, more reliable, and provide a 100% air seal if done right. Why are we running back to reinvent the wheel when it comes to Snaps?
In English, improvement does not mean perfection. However I dont know if that remains the same in whatever language you speak.
I don't need to order a 5 dollar part off mcmaster to get a perfect seal when a $1.10 worth of materials gets me the same seal. And if it starts to fail, I can open up the blaster, replace the tape and the o-ring, and re-lube it and have it ready for the next round. I'm not making a fucking military grade weapon.