I'm down, located in Milwaukee.
Klaiviel's Content
There have been 12 items by Klaiviel (Search limited from 04-December 96)
#350893 Possible indoor chicagoland or milwaukee area?
Posted by
on 18 January 2016 - 11:36 PM
in
Nerf Wars
#348034 WI MANO Nerf War 7/26
Posted by
on 25 July 2015 - 11:04 AM
in
Nerf Wars
MANO is happening this Sunday 7/26 at Greenfield Park. Looks like its going to be a good turnout. Mehku is coming up from Florida for this. Here is the event page https://www.facebook...50987451782424/
#346651 M.A.N.O.
Posted by
on 09 May 2015 - 04:32 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Crisswolf84, I am going to this and I live close to your area. If you still need a ride PM me.
#346235 4/18 Milwaukee Area Nerf Outing - Short Notice
Posted by
on 17 April 2015 - 12:09 AM
in
Nerf Wars
Did not see a thread on this yet. MANO is happening 4/18, I will be there. https://www.facebook...24273187867884/
#324509 Wills Win-ter War II
Posted by
on 16 December 2012 - 01:12 AM
in
Nerf Wars
I will be going to this, after a long hiatus.
#285276 South Milwaukee Nerf Rumble
Posted by
on 11 September 2010 - 01:03 PM
in
Nerf Wars
The war is tomorrow. The weather looks good; plan around low to mid 70's, so dress accordingly.
If anyone has an electronic flag from the capture the flag set please bring it, so we can use it.
If you purchase a pack of the 36 clip system/streamline darts you'll be entered into a raffle to win an authentic Nerf Recon expertly modded by Louie and myself!!! It's supa sub-optimal yo!
I am coming. Do we have an idea of how many people will be there yet?
#285233 Mattel Ultimator Internals
Posted by
on 10 September 2010 - 01:52 PM
in
Modifications
As a last ditch effort before the war on Sunday I am going to try a fully threaded rod from McMaster of the original diameter as that should create plenty of friction, but we will see.
If you've really changed the diameter of the rod too much, look into adding new steel to the catches. Probably by drilling the original holes out for clearance and soldering in steel stock, or something like fender washers (with a carefully reamed ID). You'd have to change those out radically for a new rod anyway.
My concern with that approach would be the solder joint giving due to the stess it would have to take. Basically the threaded rod is a quick fix, theres a good chance it won't work and in that case I will fabricate new catch parts rather than try to repair them, I just want to see if I can get away with not having to do that first.
Update: Threaded rod actually performed worse as a plunger rod; looks like its back to the drawing board.
#285224 Mattel Ultimator Internals
Posted by
on 10 September 2010 - 10:39 AM
in
Modifications
I'm surprised the friction generated is enough to hold the spring, or am I missing something? It looks like a caulk gun on steroids to me...
Oh you haven't missed a thing its purely friction, and on that note lets talk about how to ruin an Ultimator. I figured I would lube the cylinder tube cause lube == good right? Not exactly, the Ultimator relies on the friction of the catch plus that of the skirt seal in the cylinder tube; not helping either I accidently got some on the plunger rod, big mistake. I couldn't get the lube off enough with soap or anything else to make it work again so i sanded it thinking the rough texture would cause more grip and get rid of the lube. It did but in the process made the rod diameter smaller and in the process made it so the trigger has to rotate more to catch and that doesn't agree with the shell. So now when I go to prime it the mechanism releases right away...great. As a last ditch effort before the war on Sunday I am going to try a fully threaded rod from McMaster of the original diameter as that should create plenty of friction, but we will see.
Btw I too have thought of integrating this type of catch into a homemade and I am sure that after I solve the riddle of making my Ultimator work again I will incorporate it into a homemade.
#285214 2-11
Posted by
on 10 September 2010 - 02:16 AM
in
Homemades
Completed my 2-11, with a hacksaw I might add (highly not recommended); I ended up removing the stock and elongating the cylinder back to 12" which in turn elongated most of the nylon rods. I also changed the 3/8" screws to 1/2" screws and fastened both sides of the plunger rod with 2" screws. Additionally the screws fastening the plunger tube to the cross have been staggered so as not to interfere with the sliding of the pump arms. I added a skirt seal part number 9562K48 stretched over a 1.55" diameter disc; the discs in front and back of it are 1.85" diameter. I replaced the 9637K26 +bow spring with a full 11" 9637K14 spring which is the same spring used in Split's LAB. Below are some pictures of the finished product, the last pic shows the optional 8 capacity Tagger RSCB created in preparation for the upcoming stock war on Sunday.
#285211 Mattel Ultimator Internals
Posted by
on 10 September 2010 - 01:18 AM
in
Modifications
Up until now there has been no pictures on the internet that I have been able to find of the internals in a Mattel Ultimator, therefore I give you the following pictures. Of particular interest, at least to me is the catch mechanism.
#283779 4 Chan, Johnny
Posted by
on 22 August 2010 - 10:36 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Obligatory WTF? based on previous speculation. lol
#282998 Air Gun Tables For Design And Testing
Posted by
on 13 August 2010 - 02:34 AM
in
Modifications
Doom this information is absolutely fantastic and exactly what I was looking for. You saved me a lot of trouble as before I found this thread I was trying to calculate all this myself and I was having trouble figuring out what drag coefficient to use for slug darts. Also very much appreciate the range equations. I would be very interested in seeing a Springer spreadsheet as I primarily work with Springers. Thanks again keep up the good work.
