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#279731 Umd Dart Of War 3

Posted by umdlancer on 08 July 2010 - 12:07 AM in Nerf Wars

I went last year and had a blast. It was definitely a change of pace from typical outdoors wars.

A lot of people who attended last year didn't have modded blasters. The ones who did mostly had the most basic mods - AR removals, CPVC barrels, etc. It didn't put them at a disadvantage most of the time unless they were in the atrium or the mezzanine (and even then, there's plenty of cover).

You could use a +bow, I suppose, but honestly I think it would be pretty unwieldly. A lot of the action happened in tight corridors, narrow hallways and stairwells. Being able to maneuver and having a high rate of fire will probably be more important than range alone.

As for restrictions, I think they do it on a case-by-case basis.


+bows and similar have been used to great effect in prior Dart of Wars. Yes, there's plenty of tight corners that lead to intense shootouts, but there are also several long corridors and a wide-open atrium perfect for taking potshots at range.



#185610 Recon Bolter

Posted by umdlancer on 26 October 2008 - 09:38 AM in Modifications

Yes, he did. There was nothing critically important that couldn't have been handled by a PM to the OP going "Hey, are you still working on this? If so, here are some things that could help..."



#182599 Recons Recalled

Posted by umdlancer on 09 October 2008 - 01:32 PM in General Nerf

Does not compute. With the stock spring, holding onto the plunger is a surefire way to keep it from firing.

That said, the 'recall' is a good opportunity for those of us with 1st-gen Recons. It means that we won't have to build some hideous PVC contraption just to add a spring.



#181953 Titan Leak

Posted by umdlancer on 06 October 2008 - 11:07 AM in Modifications

Ok, I have this " Heavy Duty" Silicone Spray at Wal*Mart(CRC brand) and I found out that the propellant is Acetone based. Don't get it, fucked up my nitefinder. Can anyone recommend a good silicone Spray?(I saw CS type, but I can't find it.) Most Silicone sprays I find are petroleum based silicone sprays. Is this fine?


Most silicone sprays have some sort of hydrocarbon-based propellant because of their volatility (i.e. they evaporate almost instantly). Unless you're doing something to prevent the propellant from evaporating quickly, like spraying a massive amount into the plunger tube at point-blank range, it shouldn't remain in contact long enough to do any damage.



#181941 Brass Cutting

Posted by umdlancer on 06 October 2008 - 07:53 AM in Modifications

With the pipe cutters, also make sure that you're using the right blade. A blade for cutting metal will just as easily cut PVC, but a blade for cutting PVC will not yield good results on metal.



#180618 Angel Breech On A Recon

Posted by umdlancer on 30 September 2008 - 11:51 AM in Modifications

I didn't bother posting a writeup because brassing the breech didn't do anything to improve performance, aside from the Recon never jamming. I suppose if you were to do an external spring replacement, it would make a replaced breech worthwhile. It's in the modifications / paintjobs thread.

Link to the post



#176871 The New Hereti Corp. Assault Rifle

Posted by umdlancer on 12 September 2008 - 02:36 PM in Modifications

I'm using a half-length steel compression spring from McMaster, the very same one used in CaptainSlug's +bow, not a stock xbow spring.



#176831 The New Hereti Corp. Assault Rifle

Posted by umdlancer on 12 September 2008 - 10:38 AM in Modifications

I've been working on a similar Longshot mod, but in my case Zap-A-Gap has proven insufficient in keeping the orange nub that joins the bolt to its sled in place. Each time I pull the bolt back, the orange nub simply snaps off from the bolt anywhere between 1/2 to 3/4ths of the way down.

I did a spring replacement using a cut-down +bow spring prior to attempting to convert the breech to brass, but it gave the stock plastic bolt assembly no problems. I'm hoping that there are alternatives I can attempt before having to downgrading back to the stock spring.



#165466 The Vulcan: Internals And Mods! New Mods Pg.9!

Posted by umdlancer on 30 July 2008 - 04:14 PM in Modifications

love the mods :) , got some questions though, is it possible to make another belt and/or barrel out of pvc or some other pipe?


According to the Vulcan box, Nerf will be releasing a refill pack for the Vulcan which consists of a 25-round ammo belt and 25 sonic micros.



#162329 Longshot Catch Mech

Posted by umdlancer on 11 July 2008 - 12:35 AM in Modifications

If all that you are doing is adding in an AR-15 or BBB spring, swapping the catch spring for a stronger one is all the "reinforcement" that you will need.



#160652 Magstrike Help

Posted by umdlancer on 27 June 2008 - 12:54 PM in Modifications

I hot glued the little hole in the plunger tube to "increase the range"


Which little hole in the plunger tube? The one on the piece with the wings, or the hole in front of the giant piston-looking thing?



#160482 The Nerf Warrior System Pocket Edition

Posted by umdlancer on 26 June 2008 - 10:11 AM in Homemades

The pull-force is the force required to pull a magnet in direct contact with the surface in a direction perpendicular to the surface. There are two factors in play that will effectively reduce the force required to detatch your nerf gun from the magnetic holster.

First, introducing even a small separation distance reduces the strength of the magnetic attraction between the magnet and the surface. Even something as simple as a piece of craft foam over the magnet (to cushion it against impacts) will reduce it.

Second, it's much easier to separate magnets by moving them parallel to the surface rather than perpendicular to the surface. By using a strong magnet, you make it less likely that your blaster will get jostled off by running around or bumping into something, but it's by no means immovable.



#160462 The Nerf Warrior System Pocket Edition

Posted by umdlancer on 25 June 2008 - 11:29 PM in Homemades

I'd experiment with high-strength epoxy and superglue, both of which work for the small rare earth magnets I used in my WH40k models. Avoid JB Weld or anything else that has metallic filings in the resin, as the magnet will tend to pull the resin away from the joint around itself.



#160460 The Nerf Warrior System Pocket Edition

Posted by umdlancer on 25 June 2008 - 11:07 PM in Homemades

I meant you might have difficulty finding an adhesive strong enough to hold it to the blaster. It goes without saying that hot glue won't work.

edit: The benefit of getting smaller, cheaper magnets is that you can buy more of them for the same price, and stack them in various configurations if they're not individually strong enough to do the job.

For example, I can lift a standard trade paperback novel by its cover using 12x 1/4" dia x 1/16" thickness disc magnets (6 on on either side of the cover), even though individually they're far too weak to do so.



#160458 The Nerf Warrior System Pocket Edition

Posted by umdlancer on 25 June 2008 - 11:00 PM in Homemades

You don't have to be a company to order from them; they're basically the McMaster of magnets.

And FYI, though it's a lot easier to slide the magnets apart than it is to pull them straight apart; you may still want to look into magnets with less pull force like the B881. I might be able to deal with magnet that has a 42-lb pull force, but you might find that you have difficulty working with them.



#160455 The Nerf Warrior System Pocket Edition

Posted by umdlancer on 25 June 2008 - 10:41 PM in Homemades

The entire point of this system is that you'll have a layer or two of fabric inbetween the magnet and the surface it would be attatching to. If you're really that concerned though, then you can always add a sheet of craft foam over one of the surfaces to dampen the impact even further.



#160448 The Nerf Warrior System Pocket Edition

Posted by umdlancer on 25 June 2008 - 10:21 PM in Homemades

Just so you know, you don't have to rip apart a hard drive to get powerful magnets.

K&J Magnetics has a pretty decent selection of neodymium (also known as rare earth) magnets. For your purposes, a pack of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" thick magnets should do nicely. 1" x 1" x 1/16" thick magnets might also work, but I'd be concerned about them not letting go easily enough.



#160385 Dtg Problems...

Posted by umdlancer on 25 June 2008 - 12:42 PM in Modifications

It sounds like your seal is in fact too tight, so it's not getting enough air when you cock it. Try removing the etape around the plunger head, that should let it draw more air into the plunger chamber when you pull it back.



#160379 Camping

Posted by umdlancer on 25 June 2008 - 11:01 AM in Off Topic

With regard to water bottles, Nalgenes are good because they're made of polycarbonate, which is quite difficult to break and doesn't leave a nasty aftertaste in the water like polyethelyne will.

Surefire is a great brand (I have an A2 Aviator that's easily 5-6 years old and is still running off the original lamp assembly), but like most compact high-output flashlights, they chew through relatively expensive 123A lithium batteries.

In addition to a flashlight, you should have a headlamp of some sort, preferably using the same size of batteries as your flashlight. If you are to go mucking about in the dark to do your buisness, it'll be a lot easier with both your hands free.

You should have a whistle in case you get lost. Not those cheap pea-whistles, but an old-fashioned woodwind whistle.



#160339 Colleges That Nerf

Posted by umdlancer on 24 June 2008 - 10:07 PM in General Nerf

University of Maryland, College Park has a Nerf club. I attended one of their meetings but was too busy to do anything else, so I can't give you any perspective about what the games were like but they looked well run. I'm sure someone from UMD will elaborate about the club.


The University of Maryland Nerf Activity Society

We host a humans versus zombies game during the fall semesters; this is our period of highest turnout. Fall 2008 will be our third HvZ game, and our second as an SGA-recognized orginization.

Over the winter, spring, and summer seasons, we have small, informal games in which the core club members meet to play deathmatch, CTF, or whatever random gametypes we come up with; test out new mods; and just hang out.



#160332 Long(er)shot

Posted by umdlancer on 24 June 2008 - 09:21 PM in Modifications

The Longshot's "ironsights" aren't really that great. If you do try to use them, you'll find that the front sight is too low to line up properly using the top rail. Besides, the blaster's big enough that you can line up decent shots using the body.

Try doing a spring replacement next, either add in a BBB spring, or replace the existing spring with a half-length (i.e. cut down) AR15 buffer spring, making sure to replace the catch spring with something stronger while you're at it. That'll inprove your ranges enough to make it worthwhile to straighten out that scope, not because the scope itself will be functional, but because your new toy will look and feel all the more impressive with that amount of effort put into it.



#160293 Built-in Shotgun Upgrade

Posted by umdlancer on 24 June 2008 - 05:04 PM in Modifications

No. Minimizing a Longshot gets rid of that way-too-loose barrel at the front (which reduces range and accuracy), but you still keep the massive plunger tube and decent spring.

The Recons plunger tube isn't even a quarter of the volume, and has a drastically weaker spring.

Regardless of how you cut it, a minimized Longshot is still going to be roughly twice the size of a Recon.



#160290 Airtech 3000 Problem

Posted by umdlancer on 24 June 2008 - 04:48 PM in Modifications

It sounds to me like the chamber isn't closing properly after you fire a shot. Open it up and make sure that the valve release is seated on the trigger and supports, and that it's not catching on anything you might have inside the shell.



#160203 Eye Protection

Posted by umdlancer on 23 June 2008 - 11:34 PM in Nerf Wars

1313, you're a dumbass. You can put dents in live trees and leave holes in drywall with just stefans and an AT3k. Care to guess what something like that would do to your face?

Jules_Winfield, would you kindly stop quoting Pulp Fiction and STFU?



#160197 My Recon Cs-6 Triple Mod!

Posted by umdlancer on 23 June 2008 - 11:08 PM in Modifications

Golden throne, you took a perfectly servicable paintjob and mucked it up with needless layers of duct tape...

Anyways, unless you rebuilt the breech, a new barrel isn't going to net you any increase in range. In fact, it will quite probably decrease range.



#160052 Recon Help

Posted by umdlancer on 22 June 2008 - 10:20 PM in Modifications

Ok then, I'm going to have to concur with Banshee. Go buy some JB Kwik (the fast-setting version of JB Weld). You can find it at your local hardware store under adhesives, or in the automotive isle of Walmart or whatever.



#160043 Recon Help

Posted by umdlancer on 22 June 2008 - 09:27 PM in Modifications

The Recon doesn't have enough room for an Angel breech. You're going to have to duplicate the existing bolt & reciever assembly with brass, which takes more work.

I say this because if you already used epoxy and it didn't hold, then regluing it with more epoxy will be only a short-term fix.



#160014 Eye Protection

Posted by umdlancer on 22 June 2008 - 07:16 PM in Nerf Wars

I have regular prescription polycarbonate lenses, but they don't provide side protection, so I wear shop glasses over them.



#159924 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by umdlancer on 21 June 2008 - 04:44 PM in Modifications

Posted Image

Yes, it's exactly what it looks like. A breech-modded BBB that can take Longshot/Recon clips.

Aside from removing the air restrictor, I haven't done anything else to it (yet), so ranges remain unimpressive for a BBB. With cut-down taggers, I got about 70' max. The breech is extremely sensitive to dart quality. Load in bad darts, and they'll either jam up or fishtail out at 25'. The really annoying part was having to rig together something to support the barrel assembly.

edit: needed to fix the link...



#159803 Nerf Swords

Posted by umdlancer on 20 June 2008 - 12:08 AM in Off Topic

As long as you're using at least 1/2" PVC, you shouldn't have to worry about shattering the core unless you're going all-out against a steel pole, tree, or brick wall. If the problem is the foam sliding off the core, then you need to use a stronger bonding agent. If you're ripping the foam up, then try wrapping it in duct tape.

Swords have their place. Namely, in the hands of some poor sucker being shot at.



#159802 Longshot Troubles

Posted by umdlancer on 19 June 2008 - 11:25 PM in Modifications

How badly damaged are the catch face and bolt rails? If both are still intact, then you could try to rebuild the entire plunger assembly with PVC (as it sounds like both the chamber and the plunger will need replacing) like Flaming Hilt suggested.



#159518 Super Soaker Writeup

Posted by umdlancer on 17 June 2008 - 03:55 PM in Modifications

Quite impressive ranges. Unfortunately, Nerf darts simply can't advantage of that kind of range. Even a tiny crosswind is going to make a perfectly lined up 150-ft shot go wild.

This is in the category of incredible / awesome mods that you do because you can, not because it's practical or even war-legal.



#159449 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by umdlancer on 16 June 2008 - 09:27 PM in Modifications

Brass breeched Recon:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image



#159335 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by umdlancer on 16 June 2008 - 10:07 AM in Modifications

PETG isn't typically carried in hardware stores, you usually have to either order it directly from the manufacturer, or buy it from somebody like OneManClan.



#159301 The Vulcan

Posted by umdlancer on 15 June 2008 - 08:09 PM in General Nerf

You guys, I really don't like asking this, but because youtube links don't work for me, I would like to know the name of the video so I can search it.


The name of the video is "Elevator Vlogtacular!"



#159265 Barret .50 Cal Idea

Posted by umdlancer on 15 June 2008 - 02:30 PM in Modifications

The text boxes on the lower-right corner of the page have a direct link to the image as well as formatted versions of the link for HTML and BBCode.



#159258 Barret .50 Cal Idea

Posted by umdlancer on 15 June 2008 - 01:25 PM in Modifications

That's because you're linking to the page instead of the image. Try this:

[img]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh34/PCIII/nerf-snipercopy.jpg[/img]



#159236 Detachable Big Bad Bow Arches Write-up

Posted by umdlancer on 15 June 2008 - 10:18 AM in Modifications

That's a creative way to preserve the arches, but most people take off the arches because they're not functional and just get in the way of opening the shell for modding.



#159232 The Vulcan

Posted by umdlancer on 15 June 2008 - 09:12 AM in General Nerf

Targets' stated release date for the Vulcan is September 7th. Pre-orders are also back up.

That said, if you feel like checking in stores early, the DPIC is 087-11-0041. I personally doubt that the Vulcan will actually be releasing that late into fall, since the Vulcan has been coded into their systems since at least March.



#151598 Ls Vs Bbbb (both Modded Differently)

Posted by umdlancer on 17 April 2008 - 09:59 AM in Off Topic

It also depends on what sort of darts you're using. If you're playing with stock streamlines (or even basic CDT's), the extra range that the BBBB gives you isn't going to make any difference; you'd need to have weighted darts before accuracy surpasses volume of fire.