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There have been 37 items by KitAdrian (Search limited from 24-November 93)
To me, it seems more like a Reggie Deluxe. In order to understand the reference, you'd have to see Phantasm II, where one of the characters welds two double barrel shotguns side by side.
The problem isn't that there aren't fans of Doctor Who here, it's that your thread is lacking in substance.
#1) Photoshop? This could have been done in paint with as much skill.
#2) 'Round here we look for substance, not "hey this would be cool". Besides, all you accomplished was pasting Dalek barrels on Nerf guns, or Nerf darts on Dalek weapons, without even the slightest consideration of whether or not the placement or design was feasible, much less beneficial.
#3) Oh god, your spelling, grammar, punctuation, and general grasp of the English language is atrocious.
Depending on which hand you use the double jolt in, you'll likely fire the barrel on the opposite side first(i.e. Right hand, Left barrel first), but test first to see how your grip/fingers work the triggers.
So what you do is take a piece of brass or aluminum tubing to fit around the T-bar of the priming handle. It should be long enough that it would span both priming handles. Glue one side onto the Priming Handle of the Primary Jolt(the one you would fire first), then cut half of the pipe that would extend over the second handle so that the remaining half is toward the blaster.
Now you should be able to prime both barrels simultaneously by pulling down on the pipe, but when you fire the primary barrel, it is not linked to the secondary barrel.
I hope that is clear without pictures, it's balls-o-clock here and I don't have sufficient energy to put some together.
Umm, what about a dremel for the rail?
You could, but grinding that much with a dremel, you're bound to cause some divots, unless you have a SUPER steady hand. Also, you will make a lot of melting plastic fumes. I'd stand by a file for this.
They are, for the most part, a bunch of angry meatheads. The job is stressful, dangerous, and involves intense physical activity. As such, most construction workers are strong, they are stressed out, and they have an abundance of testosterone and adrenaline in their systems.
Dicking around with one is a lot like poking a sleeping bear with a stick. I'll grant that these workers weren't on site, so there was less danger involved, but pestering construction workers is dangerous in and of itself.
People don't take kindly to realistic nerf blasters, because turning toys into things that could potentially get you shot by the police goes against the spirit of having fun here.
For fucks sake...
"Things that could potentially get you shot" are not "things" in and of themselves. They are the actions performed with certain things.
I could carry a shotgun around on my shoulder downtown, real and loaded, and not ever worry about being shot by the police. I could be questioned by the police, and would likely expect that, but I would never ever ever be outright shot on sight for carrying it.
However, I have been involved in independent film shoots, one where a woman is chased through alleys by a man on a motorcycle with a katana, within spitting distance of a police station, and we were not hassled ONCE. (and no, we had not given them notice that we would be filming there)
You paranoid idiots need to pull your heads out of your asses and realize that unless you are pointing a realistic firearm AT a police officer, you are not ever ever ever going to be shot by one. Will a realistic blaster get you hassled? Maybe, probably. Shot? Never.
Every time I see a post hassling some poor newb about painting his gun black, or making it look too realistic, I want to reach through the internet and punch the person typing it, because they have no damn clue what they are talking about. Your realistic blaster will not ever get you shot unless you are being truly stupid with it (robbing banks/stores, or pointing it at cops/random strangers). And again, if you are stupid enough to do something that warrants you getting shot with your realistic blaster, it makes for a cleaner gene pool, and I'll applaud your entry into the Darwin Awards.
I can see how he hurt him and got charged for that, but can you get charged for shooting someone with a STOCK nerf gun?
As someone who works in the Construction/Labor field, I see the initial behavior as incredibly dangerous and disruptive, as well as destructive.
Construction sites are a veritable cornucopia of things that can go very badly wrong in an instant. The distraction of being hit by a nerf dart (even from a stock blaster) can be the instant of distraction that causes serious injury or death in a construction environment. Not to mention if the dart were to knock over/off any number of things into any number of other things that do not react well to the aforementioned group of things, you could have serious hazards and/or destructive forces(fire, explosion, damage, etc).
DON'T FUCK WITH CONSTRUCTION WORKERS.
Cops are not going to shoot you just for walking around with a toy gun, no matter how realistic it looks. If they do, they are committing a crime themselves. It's a little thing called Due Process. You know that phrase, "Freeze, Drop the weapon"? Yeah, they are required to say that. And if someone is stupid enough to continue waving around a realistic looking toy gun AFTER a cop says "Freeze, Drop the weapon", then they DESERVE to be shot, thus removing stupid from the gene pool.
And you whiners deserve to be socked in the mouth for being twits, and not understanding the concept of "Props".
The Mod section isn't about what you plan to do. It's about what you've done.
Don't get me wrong, I think that you have a pretty slick idea there, but you need to actually have a finished product before you make a thread.
No, but when this happens to you for your first time you start to think the problem is somewhere else.
This post was to point out where the problem was located.
There used to be a stickied thread specifically about modding Longshots and how they are taken apart/put back together. It was up for a ridiculously long time. Now the Longshot is pretty well traveled ground for anyone with a screwdriver and time.
This section of the forum is for Mods and How To guides. It is not for threads about "I put my blaster together wrong and it sucked, then I did it right and it works better".
My roommate made a similar statement today: "My phone has been working terribly the last week. I can only receive calls and get online where there's wifi. Probably because I didn't pay my cellphone bill."
If you aren't completely sold on the idea of firing both of them at the same time (which seems a bit superfluous to me) why not make the Safety Switch an Either/Or switch? One position for the Stampede, and while changing(or loading) clips, switch to the backup Swarmfire. Once a new clip is locked in, switch back to Stampede and slot loose darts into the Swarmfire on the move.
Then you run BOTH batteries to BOTH systems, giving you more power and fire rate(as power would be going to one or the other, and never being split with both), and put a full system killswitch in when not in use.
Note the expanded Hornet Tank. Waiting on the final seals to cure before testing, but it should be magical, as it's @ 10.5" of 1/2" pipe all told...
Also note the modified Cylinder Release Lever. This grip is so comfy, I tell you. The ring is made from 2 Nightfinder priming handles sandwiched together with epoxy and attached to the previous "Little Brudda Eastah Basket" handle, which has also been epoxy reinforced.
For any wondering how much the lever needs to be moved to affect the locking cam?
In other words: Not much at all. With the ring in place, the lever is much easier to action than before, and it's easy as pie to do with just my middle finger, while all my other fingers stay right where they belong*.
Of course, the standard release button is there, though the bottom of it has been removed so it doesn't interfere with the lever.
I'm somewhat tempted to run an aluminum Slurpee straw through the 1/2" pipe to use as a pinhole sight, but it would reduce the air capacity of the expansion by @40-50%, and the slight downward angle would be great for arcing fire, but not so much at medium-short ranges.
*In your girlfriend.
Right now, it's running with an unbanded Magstrike Bladder, A Clippard MAVO3 valve, and a Hornet Tank. The concept works. Semi-Auto Tri-Mav with Lever Action Cylinder advance.
Unfortunately, even with a straw to direct the flow of air and a foam turret seal, the Hornet tank just doesn't have enough OOMPH to do anything more than poop the darts out of the front of the gun.
So now I'm waiting for a Salvo Tank to up the power on the front end, and eventually I'll band the MagBladder to up the pressure on the back end.
The great thing about this setup is how well the Magstrike handle nests in the Maverick Handle. There is no glue holding them together, just holes drilled through the Mag handle to go around the lowermost posts in the Mav Handle; despite that, the pump/bladder assembly is SOLID.
"But it's missing the button to change the cylinders!"
"Wait, what's that sticking out the bottom?"
I present to you: Recently Updated Lever Action Triple Maverick.
I stole my "liddle brudda's Eastah Basket" and cannibalized the handle into a lever by drilling a hole through it for the second (non-screwed) post just in front of the trigger. The lever pivots on that post, pulling back the cylinder catch assembly by hooking a flat portion of the handle under the catch face.
Takes a little oomph to do it, so this is not one for the kiddies and the limp-wrists, but being able to release the cylinders on my beast without having to take my hand off the handle is kinda nice, especially considering my plans to mount it to the lower half of a Magstrike and Semi-Auto it(Same method as the Semi Auto Firefly). I still haven't decided if I want to use a Hornet tank or a Salvo tank for the shoota. Can anyone tell me (PM) if a Salvo will fit in a Mav Shell? If I have to cut the main shell a bit, that's fine, but I'd like to be able to keep the priming handle clean for appearances.
I considered having the button as a backup, but it was in the way of the lever, so I took it out, which is fine, now I have a window to see if the catch is set or not.
If someone has a clear catch button from a clear mav that I could have (or buy) that would be awesome (PM me)
I know its possible to convert a Shotblast to nerf darts, but would the same work on a Scatterblast or Rattler?
I know where I can buy several nerf supersoakers, But the Scatterblast is the cheapest.
I have searched, BTW.
Simple Answer: yes.
More explanatory answer: If you find something that operates by firing anything with air pressure, it can be converted to shoot nerf darts.
Heck, I converted a piece of pipe to shoot nerf darts the other day. I just blew in one end and got a bazillion feets of range. I'll be posting a mod thread later today.
In fact, as far as I can see, all he would have to do to have the upper section of the trigger replace the clothespin is grind/dremel/drill out a half-circle to rest the back portion on the spring. he's already got a notch cut there that would fit the forward arm of the spring.
They're unique because they use thick wood as the trigger material:
This gives a more comfortable trigger, it completely conceals the clothespin, and it's extremely sturdy because a. you have more surface area for your glue, and b. you can actually screw the wood to the clothespin itself
If you're going that far, why don't you just mill the top portion of your trigger into a replication of half of a wooden clothespin, and replace the moving side altogether, thus negating the need for glue/screws entirely?
I used Dim3's measurements for Double/Triple Mavs to design sprockets for my own Tri-Cylinder:
Needs painting and a few other things... I've got plans for making it a Semi-Auto by merging it with a Magstrike and a hornet chamber... but that's still in the test phase. I'm not going to hack into such a pretty thing until I'm sure it will work.
Sprockets are made from 2 layers each of 1/8" Acrylic that has been laser-cut from a design I made in Illustrator.
How did you get those sprockets? machine them? or are they commercialy(sp) avaiable?
I designed them in Illustrator, and then had a buddy of mine who owns a laser cutter/engraver clean up the images with a CAD like program, and cut them out of 1/8" Acrylic. Then I took the 2 layers for each sprocket and glued them together for 1/4" thickness.
@Gmzamz: I won't sell this one. I could see if my friend still has the pattern file. PM me with what you would be willing to pay, maybe we'll talk.
He made a write-up a while ago. You need some 1/4" wood.
Very well done. I would like to see how you made the over/under double turret.
http://nerfhaven.com...topic=17302&hl= is the write-up in question.
I used his measurements to design sprockets for my own Tri-Cylinder:
Needs painting and a few other things... I've got plans for making it a Semi-Auto by merging it with a Magstrike and a hornet chamber... but that's still in the test phase. not going to hack into such a pretty thing until I'm sure it will work.
1 pump x 4 strokes, 1 Load mech x 1 stroke = 5 movements to prime
(4 pumps + 1 load mech) x 1 stroke = 1 movement to prime
Of course, that would require 4 identical pumps, and that might be a little large on the gun.
Eliminating the plastic behind the grip not required for the main housing and relocating the batteries as you suggest would actually make this blaster more unwieldy. Unlike the Vulcan, which was extremely rear heavy, the Stampede is well balanced. Moving the batteries anywhere else would alter the weight distribution of this blaster, which I was told they researched thoroughly. They learned a lot of lessons from the Vulcan. The battery pack doesn't seem to be a power sled like the Vulcan was either. The battery chambers are the back of the blaster behind the grip, and the travel range for the plunger system also goes back there, so I don't think you will be able to remove or relocate anything without negating the benefits of this blaster design.
cut it off just forward of where the darts clear the clip/breach, eliminate all plastic behind the grip not required for the main housing, relocate the batteries (on gun/off gun your pref) and i forsee mad dual wield pistol possibilities.
I have *never* understood why anyone would create a long 'barrel' for nerf darts when the get their force from leaving the chamber.
As for removing the cosmetic barrel at the front, there isn't much you can remove without also cutting off tactical rails. If you lose the bottom one, you have nowhere to mount the combination bipod/grip. Cut back further and you lose the rail that the shield is mounted upon.
I don't think simple "hack and slash" modifications will benefit you on this one. If you want to modify it, it will take some more thought and precision, like the RFSG did to produce the Doomsayer.
Someone will figure it out, for sure.
The ultimate "pistol" minimization would require the removal of the batteries altogether. Perhaps replacing them with RC car batteries that are worn as a pack, rather than included in the body of the blaster.
So the Aluminum tube that you use to prime the gun is hollow, right, and there's a hole in the top of it for the air to go up and into the RSCB? Perhaps if you packed the tube in front of that hole full of an Epoxy of your choice, then the area forward of the hole would no longer be dead space, it would be cut off from the air flow path.
If the former, I'd suggest a fixed-mount Vulcan on the handlebars, with the electric trigger re-positioned to the handlebar.
Of course, if it's more like a chair, you could do the same, but he wouldn't have quite as easy a time panning the weapon, as it'd be mounted to the side, and the trigger on the joystick.
This has the added benefit that it allows him to have a sidearm that he can use when he can't easily bring the Vulcan to bear.