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#364082 APOC 2019 - Saturday August 3rd in Ocean Township, NJ

Posted by Zack the Mack on 16 July 2019 - 10:40 AM in Nerf Wars

I'll be there with the NYCNO crew! Maybe our next podcast will be about Apoc?


Also, I think Ted is a cool guy.

#358975 2017 Nerf War Schedule

Posted by Zack the Mack on 01 April 2017 - 06:53 PM in Nerf Wars


[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/27628-nyc-nerf-ops-5-foamcoming-saturday-april-29th/]April 29 \[NY\] NYC Nerf Ops 5: Foamcoming[/url]

#358974 NYC Nerf Ops 5: Foamcoming (Saturday April 29th)

Posted by Zack the Mack on 01 April 2017 - 06:47 PM in Nerf Wars

The NYC Nerf Ops FB group is stoked to announce our next superstock war.


Date: 4/29/2017, 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM

Location: 40.782278, -73.963951 (Manhattan, Central Park)

Blaster ruleset: Superstock (~150fps max), melee weapons permitted

Game rotation: 3-15, Turf War, Sticks and Stones, Harambe Escort, Flag Push


Up-to-date info and non-NIC attendee list are available on the Facebook group page.

No rain date - the war continues in all weather. 
The battlefield is a five-minute walk from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.


The venue is a small, open field surrounded by trees. There's a lot more cover than a standard public park, enough to make Rival blasters competitive.

- Primary blaster. See Weapon Info below.
- At least 200 rounds of STOCK ammo. Homemade and modified ammo is banned.
- Eye protection. All players must have safety goggles. Glasses, toy goggles, and masks are not sufficient.

- Water. There are no water fountains or 'street meat' stands nearby.
- A pistol, melee weapon, shotgun, or bow for Sticks and Stones
- 500+ rounds of ammo
- Garbage bags, for cleanup

- Blasters must be colorful. 
- We highly recommend using modified flywheel blasters.
- Melee weapons must be fully padded, including the shaft and pommel.
- See below for info about the "Sticks and Stones" special weapon restrictions.

The first round begins when four players arrive. We generally alternate elimination with objective games. After each round, we will have 10 minutes of downtime, or 20 if we need to sweep.

Game rules:


Turf War Elimination:
- Teams may have any number of players. Each team decides on a color.
- Each team has ten shared lives. When you're hit, yell your team color and your team's new life total.
- 15-second respawns
- When your team runs out of lives, all team members are eliminated.

Sticks and Stones Elimination:
- 5-15 ruleset
- You may only use pistols, melee weapons, shotguns, and bows.
- Nerf Clip System blasters and compatible blasters are not pistols.
- The Nerf Apollo is not a pistol.
- Shotguns must fire at least two darts with every trigger pull.

Harambe Escort:
- Objective: Escort Harambe to freedom, or gun him down.
- Harambe the gorilla has two lives and is unarmed. Other players have infinite lives and may use any blaster.
- While Harambe is standing still and beating his chest, he is invincible.
- Harambe is escorted by four memelords. The remaining players are zookeepers.
- Harambe begins at Point A. If he touches Point B, the memelords win. If he dies, the zookeepers win.
- Memelords respawn in 15 seconds. Zookeepers respawn in 30 seconds.

Flag Push:
- Objective: Attackers attempt to carry the flag from Point A to Point B. Defenders must hold them off for ten minutes.
- Attackers begin at Point A. Defenders begin at point B. All players have infinite lives.
- Attackers respawn by touching Point A. Defenders respawn by counting to 15 WHILE touching Point B.
- Before the timer begins, defenders have 30 seconds to set up and may position themselves anywhere on the battlefield.
- Defenders may not touch the flag, except to stand it up.
- To carry the flag, an attacker must hold it in one hand, clearly visible. Nothing else may be carried in that hand.
- When an attacker is hit, he or she must immediately drop the flag.

#358973 Modded a Rival Nemesis today.

Posted by Zack the Mack on 01 April 2017 - 06:33 PM in Modifications

So they have them in New York now too?


Not sure where the player got it. I know some Targets got stock early.

#358762 Men gun vs Xwaffles

Posted by Zack the Mack on 24 March 2017 - 02:03 PM in Darts and Barrels

I've run Ekind waffle 'drats' in four consecutive wars. They run exceptionally in Artifact cages and wheels.


The glue is definitely weak. Most heads are very loose after two or three uses. Very few survive more than five shots.

#358761 [NY] NYCNO 4 (March 18 Saturday)

Posted by Zack the Mack on 24 March 2017 - 01:59 PM in Nerf Wars

This was the first war I've run, and seeing everyone have a good time filled me with feels.



  • New Rapidstrike firmware was a beast
  • "Sticks and stones" pistol/shotgun/bow/melee 5-15 FFA rounds were balanced and intense
  • Improved flag push rules were a blast
  • There was a guy in a gorilla suit
  • Got to field-test a Nemesis and it's god-tier
  • Tactical tactics were real. Lots of sick plays and great teamfights.
  • Good mixture of cover and exposure
  • Nice and dry up to the end
  • Improved Harambe Defense VIP rules played great


  • Hard to control a Rapidstrike trigger in ski gloves
  • Still figuring out the best defender spawn time in flag push
  • Ekind waffle 'drats' kept wearing out
  • Reloading six mags in the cold sucks
  • Like a thousand Rival balls everywhere, took ages to sweep up
  • NYCNO field is getting stale. We're looking for a spicy new battlefield

#358760 My blaster is destroying darts

Posted by Zack the Mack on 24 March 2017 - 01:51 PM in Darts and Barrels

I run Ekind waffle 'drats' and can confirm that the glue is too weak for good airgun performance. They leak air around the heads, the heads bind in the barrel, and the pressure can easily blow the heads clean out.


I'd recommend buying suction 'drats', Kooshes, or FVJ's, which usually have more glue.


You can also use really long, loose barrels in airguns. The huge volume of air can accelerate a dart without a tight seal. 

#358759 Modded a Rival Nemesis today.

Posted by Zack the Mack on 24 March 2017 - 01:48 PM in Modifications

Loved this video. Watching you get pelted with your own balls made my day.


Can confirm that the Nemesis is the ultimate crowd-control blaster. 100 balls lock down all opponents in range for about 15 seconds, enough for a single flank to wipe them out.

#358110 Nerfers in Monmouth county, NJ?

Posted by Zack the Mack on 21 February 2017 - 02:33 PM in Nerf Wars

If you plan weekend wars in Monmouth, I'd love to come. My brother lives nearby, and he's down too.

#357631 Shields: Do you love them? Hate them? Ban them? Permit them?

Posted by Zack the Mack on 20 January 2017 - 07:32 PM in General Nerf

But does breaking the shield and killing the user make the shield null for the rest of the battle?

My post was saying ok the disc hits your shield it's broken for the rest of the rouND and you can go place it back at your base and grab a full size blaster or continue to carry it and wield a smaller one.


Oh, you can continue to use the shield. Creating counterplays to shields is important, but It's more important to keep the rules manageable.

#357589 Shields: Do you love them? Hate them? Ban them? Permit them?

Posted by Zack the Mack on 16 January 2017 - 04:02 PM in General Nerf

The key rule is that breaking the shield kills the shieldbearer:

  • It amps up the risk factor in running a shield
  • It provides a bigger target for the jankier "shield breaker" projectiles
  • It cuts out bookkeeping and makes rules enforcement easier
  • Many players don't like throwing their equipment on the ground
  • People will step on the shield, and we don't want anyone getting lacerated on broken plastic

#357562 help with MTB hellcat motor

Posted by Zack the Mack on 14 January 2017 - 06:06 PM in Modifications

Unfortunately, the solder tabs aren't replaceable. You need a new Hellcat...


I'll admit that I broke a motor the same way. You can add some strain relief with a dab of E6000 or Goop after you solder the wires to make this less likely...

#357561 Shields: Do you love them? Hate them? Ban them? Permit them?

Posted by Zack the Mack on 14 January 2017 - 05:57 PM in General Nerf

I've done some casual wars that allow shields. They do slow the game, but they encourage tactical play. Shields counter high-powered blasters that outrange opponents - if you want to get more diversity than homemades, I highly recommend them.


Here are the rules we used to govern shields:

  • Shooter still calls hits. If the shooter says the round hit the shieldbearer and not the shield, it counts as usual.
  • Shields must be held in one hand. Players must hold the shield in a hand to use it. This prevents players from strapping shields all over themselves, makes it easier for the shieldbearer to call shield hits, restricts the blasters the shieldbearer can use, and makes the shieldbearer vulnerable while reloading. It also implicitly bans shield-blaster combos, since the shield is held by the blaster.
  • Melee kills the shieldbearer. If the shield touches an opponent's body or any of his or her equipment, the shieldbearer dies as if he or she were hit. This allows any player to kill a shielded player, and punishes the shieldbearer for striking a player with it.
  • Exotic projectiles kill the shieldbearer. If a missile, sock, Mega dart, Vortex disc, etc hits the shield, the shieldbearer dies as if he or she were hit. The war organizer might want to allow Rival balls, Boomco darts, stock Streamlines, etc to penetrate shields as well. As usual, the shooter calls hits.
  • Shieldbearers have an extended respawn time. We used double time - if the game is 3-15, you wait 30 seconds instead of 15. You might even extend this further if the battlefield is large. This allows players to rush opponents when they kill their shielded teammates.
  • Shields don't work during sudden death. If the opposing team has only one surviving player, shield hits kill the shieldbearer. That player is responsible for calling sudden death.

Setup and safety rules:

  • Defenders can't use shields. This is only for asymmetrical games with an attacking and defending team.
  • Shieldbearers can't use melee weapons. This is a safety rule that prevents players from accidentally swinging a shield at someone.
  • Shields can't have sharp edges. Shields must have rounded edges that are unlikely to cut a player. Cracked or broken shields can't be used.


Some other pointers for using shields in wars:

  • Shields are the most fun when there's a lot of cover. In an open battlefield, the shields are the only cover on the battlefield and the game grinds to a halt.
  • Shields are best when the teams are large. I wouldn't allow shields unless there are at least six players on each team.
  • Shields force a change in the metagame. One shieldbearer can shut down an entire team of long-range single-shot blasters.

#357546 Frozen Foam 3: Chilled to Perfection

Posted by Zack the Mack on 12 January 2017 - 07:00 PM in Nerf Wars

No, it was actually in the snow, I have it, just remind me before the next war. It's a little worn out from being in the melting snow for two days though.




You should come to the next NYCNO. Everyone should. 

#357520 Frozen Foam 3: Chilled to Perfection

Posted by Zack the Mack on 10 January 2017 - 02:20 PM in Nerf Wars

Did someone take my bayonet home with them? I can't find it in my gear.

#357497 Frozen Foam 3: Chilled to Perfection

Posted by Zack the Mack on 07 January 2017 - 09:06 PM in Nerf Wars

This was one of the most challenging wars I've ever fought. The brutal weather tested our endurance, broke our blasters, and buried our staging area. 


Thanks to Aeromech for running a tight war. He finessed some tense situations with park security and a news reporter, and even gave us bagels and bologna. Downtime between rounds was short - maybe too short, with all the N-strike mags that needed reloading.


It was ridiculously cold. Anyone without layers of outerwear and heavy gloves froze to death. In irony blyat, Sentinel Master Race cyka destroyed by Russian winter, blin. Many Sentinels were lost today. Our brave comrades were rearmed by Van - your service to Republic will be remembered.


The cold destroyed lots of blasters. My Sceptor leaked, homemades lost their seals, 3D-printed parts fractured, flywheels slipped. Even tactical gear and duct tape failed.


My new Rapidstrike was a beast. It handled the snow like a champ and mulched my opponents. The only real issue was that the cold weather made my LiPo's voltage drop, and the blaster thought it was out of charge and disabled itself. Worse, Van's Frankenblaster outranged it and he ate my lunch again and again. Damn you Van!


My gray Drats (not darts, drats) were basically invisible in the snow. Not only couldn't I confirm hits, I lost like 150 of them.


Thanks to everyone who helped make this a great war, helped shlep my huge loadout, and helped get my goddamn Centurion out of my apartment.


Also, ice froze into my beard and made me look like a manly-man. Here's what the girlfriend thought.


Screenshot 2017-01-07 20.37.38.png

#357485 Frozen Foam 3: Chilled to Perfection

Posted by Zack the Mack on 06 January 2017 - 07:24 PM in Nerf Wars

I may not be able to get there because of snow.

It shouldn't start snowing until 10 or 11. Get moving earlier and you should be OK.


BONUS! Here's my gear for the war, minus the Sceptor that's down for repairs.

2017-01-06 19.23.12 scaled.jpg

#357475 Preview: Rapidstrike Electronic Fire System

Posted by Zack the Mack on 06 January 2017 - 01:44 PM in Modifications

That's determined largely by the characteristics of the magnets and should be specified on the motor datasheet. MTB's motor datasheets include it.

EDIT: Worth noting that in this prototype, the back EMF was readable but too noisy to be useful. A future version with better grounding and filtering should give me relevant readings.

#357431 3D Printable Rapidstrike Mod Parts

Posted by Zack the Mack on 04 January 2017 - 01:23 PM in Modifications

Mind if I download the double display file and modify it for my own use?


Absolutely. Just remember the Creative Commons license - if you share the STL online, you need to include your model as well.

#357427 JSPB C5 Sight is Badass

Posted by Zack the Mack on 04 January 2017 - 03:00 AM in General Nerf

is that a dart counter on the Rapidstrike?


For reference, I've posted the STL file for that display bracket in this thread.

#357426 Preview: Rapidstrike Electronic Fire System

Posted by Zack the Mack on 04 January 2017 - 02:58 AM in Modifications

What motor drivers are you using?


EDIT: I found some that should work: http://www.digikey.c...INCT-ND/4772019

Those are actually the motor drivers I used in this mod! They're ludicrously overspecified for Nerf motors, but they were very easy to build around.

#357425 3D Printable Rapidstrike Mod Parts

Posted by Zack the Mack on 04 January 2017 - 02:56 AM in Modifications

Maybe you could modify the rear cover plate so it could be glued to or replaced the shell insert for the stock.


Totally agree, that is the most elegant way to attach the butt plate. My mod needed that dead space to hold a microcontroller, but if I built a production version of the mod, I'd combine the butt plate and stock retainer doohickey into one piece.


The screen bracket is amazing and I want one. What size oled does it hold and would you be willing to adjust it to hold a single oled on the top and a 3 piece segment 7 as the bottom.

The brackets hold the four-pin SSD1306 breakout board, which is also sold as an SH1106. Adafruit's SSD1306 breakout is wider and won't fit. Here's an example of the display board, but you can find a lot of clones from a lot of other suppliers.


Nice color, it's not really elite, but manages to fit well on the Rapidstrike color scheme

Yeah, I needed to use the ABS filament at my hackerspace, and this is the closest I could find. If you print these parts, I'd recommend buying orange filament, because it's pretty close to the stock colorscheme.

#357412 JSPB C5 Sight is Badass

Posted by Zack the Mack on 03 January 2017 - 04:55 PM in General Nerf

All of his stuff is lit as hell. Would think that they're a little tall and awkward for our purposes though. 


I mean, it's not like we actually USE our optics...

#357411 3D Printable Rapidstrike Mod Parts

Posted by Zack the Mack on 03 January 2017 - 04:54 PM in Modifications

Hey all, I'd like to share some parts I designed while modding my Rapidstrike. All of these are released Creative Commons 4.0 Noncommercial Attribution Share-Alike.


Editable models and installation instructions are hosted on Thingiverse. I've attached STL files to this post for convenience, but I recommend visiting Thingiverse as well.


Pusher Motor Cover and Nameplate

2016-12-29 15.35.05 scaled.jpg


If you upgraded your pusher to use a 180 motor, this cover plate prevents shorts while still allowing ventilation. It also neatly covers the Rapidstrike logo so you can pimp your blaster.


Thingiverse link with design files and instructions


Dual OLED Screen Bracket

2016-12-12 13.25.31 scaled.jpg


Replace your Rapidstrike's sling loop and rear sight with TWO OLED screens. If your sick gaming rig needs two monitors, so does your sick blasting rig.


Thingiverse link with design files and instructions


Butt Plate

2017-01-03 12.42.10 scaled.jpg


If you removed your Rapidstrike's stock, you now have a gaping hole. Install this butt plate and now you don't. I included two versions - one has a cutout for a battery connector or a USB port, the other is solid.


Thingiverse link with design files and instructions



Thanks for viewing, and good luck with your Rapidstrike modding.

Attached Files

#357406 JSPB C5 Sight is Badass

Posted by Zack the Mack on 03 January 2017 - 01:20 PM in General Nerf

I've never seen anyone post about the awesome sight that 3DBBQ designed for the C5 Launcher. It snaps onto N-Strike rails and looks cool as hell.


You can buy the STL file from the JSPB site for two bucks and print it on your own machine.


2017-01-03 13.11.14 scaled.jpg

2017-01-03 13.11.23 scaled.jpg

IMG_20170102_192325 scaled.jpg

#357405 motors hot

Posted by Zack the Mack on 03 January 2017 - 01:04 PM in Modifications


is it a problem if my FWs are not perfectly in the middle of the FWC?

how do i get my motors/flywheels to sit straight?


If a flywheel is askew, it can wobble as it turns. I believe this will fix itself over time as centripetal force pulls it back into position.


If you pushed a flywheel too far onto its motor's shaft, or if the motor isn't seated properly in the cage, the flywheel can rub on the cage. This happened with my Artifact setup. I just gently pried the flywheel up so it was no longer scraping against the cage.

#357389 Frozen Foam 3: Chilled to Perfection

Posted by Zack the Mack on 02 January 2017 - 04:56 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm running the "Biotic" Sceptor from last time, as well as my new Rapidstrike superstock project.


Hopefully some of you bring superstock too, so I can get some fair testing!

#357371 motors hot

Posted by Zack the Mack on 31 December 2016 - 07:45 PM in Modifications

This happened with my Hellcats until they were fully broken-in.


The motors need some runtime to burn off grease and crud left over from production, the factory lubricants need time to penetrate, and the brushes need to wear down to properly fit the shaft.

After an hour or two of continuous running, they should be more consistent. 


You can also double-check that your flywheels are consistent.

#357370 Frozen Foam 3: Chilled to Perfection

Posted by Zack the Mack on 31 December 2016 - 07:42 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm taking an Uber to the war from NYC's West Village. Anyone want to split a fare?

#357344 Rapidstrike FCG Microswitch Bracket

Posted by Zack the Mack on 29 December 2016 - 04:56 PM in Modifications

This is rad. I wish I had access to this when I was still modding my Rapidstrike.


When I make another Rapidstrike, I'll model custom triggers so you don't need to modify the microswitches.


tactical sensation

I see what you did there

#357283 Frozen Foam 3: Chilled to Perfection

Posted by Zack the Mack on 22 December 2016 - 08:33 PM in Nerf Wars

I have some leftover parts from my Rapidstrike mod. PM MEEEE if you'd like me to bring any of them to the war for trade or sale:

  • MTB Rhino motors
  • MTB Honey Badger motors
  • Worker Stryfe extended mag release lever
  • Worker Rapidstrike extended pusher arm (new in package)
  • Worker serrated flywheels (new in package)
  • 3D printed ABS Rapidstrike extended mag release lever
  • 3D printed PLA JSPB3D C5 sights
  • 3D printed PLA GoPro tactical rail mount
  • Modulus collapsible foregrip
  • 0.75" aluminum pipe (drop-in replacement for rifled false barrels)
  • 16ga silicone wire
  • RFID tags (about 1" circles, as thick as a credit card, formatted NDEF)
  • A stock Centurion (w/ 7 darts)

I'm looking for Sledgefire shells, Recon ladder sights, 22-round Worker mags, a one-point sling, Accustrike darts, Koosh darts, a stock Sentinel, and the Modulus bayonet knife.


EDIT: Added subtle emphasis to the "PM me" part

#357282 Preview: Rapidstrike Electronic Fire System

Posted by Zack the Mack on 22 December 2016 - 08:18 PM in Modifications

This project is done!


Enjoy some preview pics while I make some videos and a proper write-up.


2016-12-22 16.50.25.jpg


Internals shot shows the wire routing, processor in back, and Artifact flywheel setup


2016-12-22 20.08.12.jpg


Except for the crazy motor driver, it looks almost like a stock Rapidstrike


2016-12-22 20.08.29.jpg


Close-up of the motor driver, with color-coordinated heatsink, caps, and mounting bracket


2016-12-22 20.07.41.jpg


Mag size and firing parameters are loaded from the RFID tag in the magazine. You can see the red RFID receiver on the mag well.


2016-12-22 20.08.42.jpg


Close-up of displays. Upper indicates that there's no mag installed. Bottom tracks my loadout, battery voltage, and game time


2016-12-22 20.08.59.jpg


When the blaster is locked, triggers and motor driver are disabled.

#357278 Best motors for a rapidstrike on 3S Lipo?

Posted by Zack the Mack on 22 December 2016 - 11:45 AM in Modifications

I know you said 130 only, but I used all Hellcats on my Rapidstrike and they're the nuts.

Flywheels rev up in about 150ms and the pusher cycle takes about 110ms.

Dynamic braking is also great. No pusher overshoot at all and flywheels come to a complete stop in about 100ms.

The motors don't really protrude too far through the shell. You could patch the holes with some styrene if you don't have access to a 3d printer.

#357219 Strayven Mod

Posted by Zack the Mack on 18 December 2016 - 11:28 PM in Modifications

1) Yes. The easiest way is buying 12V LED tape, which you can just run right off the batteries. You could also wire bunches of LED's in series so the forward voltage adds up to 12V or less, and use a resistor to limit the current. Or, you could add a DC-DC step-down converter (also called a buck regulator or switching regulator) to create a low-voltage line that can drive your LEDs.


2) Yes. You will need to regulate the battery voltage to a more manageable level, probably 5V for the Arduino. I would use a switching regulator to do this, because using a linear regulator to drop 12V to 5V will produce a lot of heat and waste a lot of battery.


3) The Tenergy TB6B is a well-designed multi-purpose battery charger, discharger, and balancer. It's well-priced and very popular. It has algorithms that monitor the battery and limit the amount of current it can draw.

#357218 Hyperfire Battery Question

Posted by Zack the Mack on 18 December 2016 - 11:23 PM in Modifications

You could consider a 2S LiPo. It outputs an average 7.4V and should fit in the battery tray. 

#357182 Hyperfire Mods

Posted by Zack the Mack on 16 December 2016 - 08:49 PM in Modifications

The flywheel cage for the Hyperfire is VERY different from the Stryfe or Rapidstrike. It has a canted cage, which whirlybirds darts if you run anything more than Honeybadger and 2S lipo in it.


Totally right. I was referring to the notes I made for the Rapidstrike and they were mistaken.


From my research, the flywheels and motors are the same size as those in the Rapidstrike and Stryfe, but yeah, many aftermarket flywheels will probably misalign in a stock Hyperfire cage.

#357176 Hyperfire Mods

Posted by Zack the Mack on 16 December 2016 - 01:04 PM in Modifications

The Hyperfire hasn't been very popular with modders because its belt-drive pusher is unreliable. There isn't as much documentation about it.

Any flywheel, cage, or motor that fits in a Stryfe or Rapidstrike will fit the Hyperfire.

Follow modding best practices, use thick heatproof wires, use high current switches, etc.

The Hyperfire is especially exciting for electronics mods because it has large open pockets of dead space in the front and back.

#357175 Preview: Rapidstrike Electronic Fire System

Posted by Zack the Mack on 16 December 2016 - 12:56 PM in Modifications

Interesting, how are you getting the motor rpm?

It's a mock-up in these photos, but the wiring is there to do it for real.

I'm using sensorless back-EMF feedback to detect RPM. When a motor is freewheeling, it acts like a generator, and the voltage is proportional to the angular velocity of the shaft.

So, every once in a while, I freewheel the motor for a few microsexonds, sample the voltage, infer the speed, and adjust the drive. Of course, this isn't done while firing, because I don't want to decrease torque.

More information on this feedback system is available at https://www.precisio...m-from-back-emf .

It's worth noting that you need an H-bridge or half-H driver to use this method. A simple transistor follower, SPST relay, or switch leaves one end of the motor connected to voltage and makes it impossible to read the EMF.

#357147 Preview: Rapidstrike Electronic Fire System

Posted by Zack the Mack on 14 December 2016 - 03:04 AM in Modifications

2016-12-14 02.31.58 scaled.jpg


Another quick status update: Electronics are fully assembled, tested, and confirmed functional. Unlike the previous pic, the display is actually showing dart count, and set its mag size by reading the RFID tag in the magazine.


The Hellcat pusher motor responds exceptionally well to active braking; the pusher homed on the first try after all 90 test shots.


I can't install the heatsink and fan until I build the motor driver enclosure (which is also why the motor driver is awkwardly zip-tied to the front of the blaster). Until then, I'm running the motors at half speed to prevent overheating. 


You can't see it from the picture, but the lower display is showing accurate temperature, battery voltage, and runtime. I need to figure out the conversions for the other metrics.


Once the motor driver enclosure is done, I can reassemble the blaster and do full-powered testing. I expect it to run like any Rapidstrike running triple Hellcats - fucking well.


Anyone have a pusher motor cover STL? I had to punch a hole in the shell to fit the 180 hellcat.

#357146 Brass Breech (Sharpfire)

Posted by Zack the Mack on 14 December 2016 - 02:46 AM in Modifications

Walcom's is flush up agents the brass breech and the receiving piece of brass goes into the breach and in Jay's the piece of brass in the breach has a bit sticking out and that goes into the receiving piece. so that doesn't make a difference ?

For this mod, it shouldn't have much of an effect. I called 'the bit sticking out' a 'tongue'. This is usually done when breeching complex blasters with a bolt sled like Longshots and Sentinels, because the bolt sled carries the breech and it can fall out of alignment. This is unlikely to happen with a small, simple blaster like the Sharpfire.


and this would be my 1st breach mod what one would YOU recommend ?   
Ang Jay also mentions 1/2 inch brass, why is this and is it better to use 1/2 inch brass instead of the 17/32 inch brass ?

I wouldn't recommend doing either one. Breeches are difficult mods that need to be executed very well to even work. You seem fairly new to Nerf. I'd do easier mods and get used to working with brass, then tackle this one.


If I were to do one of these, I'd do Walcom's mod. It's easier to build and more likely to perform reliably.


1/2" brass has a snug fit on stock darts. 17/32" brass has a snug fit on most Slugs and other Foam Backer Rod-based homemade darts. You will select the barrel diameter that fits your loadout, and select the other brass parts to fit snugly against that. 


You shouldn't worry so much, and just buy some materials and see how things fit. Even if you make a massive mistake, this mod only takes $30 of materials.