I'll be there with the NYCNO crew! Maybe our next podcast will be about Apoc?
Also, I think Ted is a cool guy.
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There have been 313 items by Zack the Mack (Search limited from 22-February 93)
The NYC Nerf Ops FB group is stoked to announce our next superstock war.
Date: 4/29/2017, 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Location: 40.782278, -73.963951 (Manhattan, Central Park)
Blaster ruleset: Superstock (~150fps max), melee weapons permitted
Game rotation: 3-15, Turf War, Sticks and Stones, Harambe Escort, Flag Push
Up-to-date info and non-NIC attendee list are available on the Facebook group page.
No rain date - the war continues in all weather.
The battlefield is a five-minute walk from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The venue is a small, open field surrounded by trees. There's a lot more cover than a standard public park, enough to make Rival blasters competitive.
- Primary blaster. See Weapon Info below.
- At least 200 rounds of STOCK ammo. Homemade and modified ammo is banned.
- Eye protection. All players must have safety goggles. Glasses, toy goggles, and masks are not sufficient.
- Water. There are no water fountains or 'street meat' stands nearby.
- A pistol, melee weapon, shotgun, or bow for Sticks and Stones
- 500+ rounds of ammo
- Garbage bags, for cleanup
- Blasters must be colorful.
- We highly recommend using modified flywheel blasters.
- Melee weapons must be fully padded, including the shaft and pommel.
- See below for info about the "Sticks and Stones" special weapon restrictions.
SCHEDULE AND GAME RULES:
The first round begins when four players arrive. We generally alternate elimination with objective games. After each round, we will have 10 minutes of downtime, or 20 if we need to sweep.
Turf War Elimination:
- Teams may have any number of players. Each team decides on a color.
- Each team has ten shared lives. When you're hit, yell your team color and your team's new life total.
- 15-second respawns
- When your team runs out of lives, all team members are eliminated.
Sticks and Stones Elimination:
- 5-15 ruleset
- You may only use pistols, melee weapons, shotguns, and bows.
- Nerf Clip System blasters and compatible blasters are not pistols.
- The Nerf Apollo is not a pistol.
- Shotguns must fire at least two darts with every trigger pull.
- Objective: Escort Harambe to freedom, or gun him down.
- Harambe the gorilla has two lives and is unarmed. Other players have infinite lives and may use any blaster.
- While Harambe is standing still and beating his chest, he is invincible.
- Harambe is escorted by four memelords. The remaining players are zookeepers.
- Harambe begins at Point A. If he touches Point B, the memelords win. If he dies, the zookeepers win.
- Memelords respawn in 15 seconds. Zookeepers respawn in 30 seconds.
- Objective: Attackers attempt to carry the flag from Point A to Point B. Defenders must hold them off for ten minutes.
- Attackers begin at Point A. Defenders begin at point B. All players have infinite lives.
- Attackers respawn by touching Point A. Defenders respawn by counting to 15 WHILE touching Point B.
- Before the timer begins, defenders have 30 seconds to set up and may position themselves anywhere on the battlefield.
- Defenders may not touch the flag, except to stand it up.
- To carry the flag, an attacker must hold it in one hand, clearly visible. Nothing else may be carried in that hand.
- When an attacker is hit, he or she must immediately drop the flag.
I've run Ekind waffle 'drats' in four consecutive wars. They run exceptionally in Artifact cages and wheels.
The glue is definitely weak. Most heads are very loose after two or three uses. Very few survive more than five shots.
This was the first war I've run, and seeing everyone have a good time filled me with feels.
I run Ekind waffle 'drats' and can confirm that the glue is too weak for good airgun performance. They leak air around the heads, the heads bind in the barrel, and the pressure can easily blow the heads clean out.
I'd recommend buying suction 'drats', Kooshes, or FVJ's, which usually have more glue.
You can also use really long, loose barrels in airguns. The huge volume of air can accelerate a dart without a tight seal.
Loved this video. Watching you get pelted with your own balls made my day.
Can confirm that the Nemesis is the ultimate crowd-control blaster. 100 balls lock down all opponents in range for about 15 seconds, enough for a single flank to wipe them out.
But does breaking the shield and killing the user make the shield null for the rest of the battle?
My post was saying ok the disc hits your shield it's broken for the rest of the rouND and you can go place it back at your base and grab a full size blaster or continue to carry it and wield a smaller one.
Oh, you can continue to use the shield. Creating counterplays to shields is important, but It's more important to keep the rules manageable.
The key rule is that breaking the shield kills the shieldbearer:
Unfortunately, the solder tabs aren't replaceable. You need a new Hellcat...
I'll admit that I broke a motor the same way. You can add some strain relief with a dab of E6000 or Goop after you solder the wires to make this less likely...
I've done some casual wars that allow shields. They do slow the game, but they encourage tactical play. Shields counter high-powered blasters that outrange opponents - if you want to get more diversity than homemades, I highly recommend them.
Here are the rules we used to govern shields:
Setup and safety rules:
Some other pointers for using shields in wars:
This was one of the most challenging wars I've ever fought. The brutal weather tested our endurance, broke our blasters, and buried our staging area.
Thanks to Aeromech for running a tight war. He finessed some tense situations with park security and a news reporter, and even gave us bagels and bologna. Downtime between rounds was short - maybe too short, with all the N-strike mags that needed reloading.
It was ridiculously cold. Anyone without layers of outerwear and heavy gloves froze to death. In irony blyat, Sentinel Master Race cyka destroyed by Russian winter, blin. Many Sentinels were lost today. Our brave comrades were rearmed by Van - your service to Republic will be remembered.
The cold destroyed lots of blasters. My Sceptor leaked, homemades lost their seals, 3D-printed parts fractured, flywheels slipped. Even tactical gear and duct tape failed.
My new Rapidstrike was a beast. It handled the snow like a champ and mulched my opponents. The only real issue was that the cold weather made my LiPo's voltage drop, and the blaster thought it was out of charge and disabled itself. Worse, Van's Frankenblaster outranged it and he ate my lunch again and again. Damn you Van!
My gray Drats (not darts, drats) were basically invisible in the snow. Not only couldn't I confirm hits, I lost like 150 of them.
Thanks to everyone who helped make this a great war, helped shlep my huge loadout, and helped get my goddamn Centurion out of my apartment.
Also, ice froze into my beard and made me look like a manly-man. Here's what the girlfriend thought.
What motor drivers are you using?
EDIT: I found some that should work: http://www.digikey.c...INCT-ND/4772019
Those are actually the motor drivers I used in this mod! They're ludicrously overspecified for Nerf motors, but they were very easy to build around.
Maybe you could modify the rear cover plate so it could be glued to or replaced the shell insert for the stock.
Totally agree, that is the most elegant way to attach the butt plate. My mod needed that dead space to hold a microcontroller, but if I built a production version of the mod, I'd combine the butt plate and stock retainer doohickey into one piece.
The screen bracket is amazing and I want one. What size oled does it hold and would you be willing to adjust it to hold a single oled on the top and a 3 piece segment 7 as the bottom.
The brackets hold the four-pin SSD1306 breakout board, which is also sold as an SH1106. Adafruit's SSD1306 breakout is wider and won't fit. Here's an example of the display board, but you can find a lot of clones from a lot of other suppliers.
Nice color, it's not really elite, but manages to fit well on the Rapidstrike color scheme
Yeah, I needed to use the ABS filament at my hackerspace, and this is the closest I could find. If you print these parts, I'd recommend buying orange filament, because it's pretty close to the stock colorscheme.
Hey all, I'd like to share some parts I designed while modding my Rapidstrike. All of these are released Creative Commons 4.0 Noncommercial Attribution Share-Alike.
Editable models and installation instructions are hosted on Thingiverse. I've attached STL files to this post for convenience, but I recommend visiting Thingiverse as well.
Pusher Motor Cover and Nameplate
If you upgraded your pusher to use a 180 motor, this cover plate prevents shorts while still allowing ventilation. It also neatly covers the Rapidstrike logo so you can pimp your blaster.
Dual OLED Screen Bracket
Replace your Rapidstrike's sling loop and rear sight with TWO OLED screens. If your sick gaming rig needs two monitors, so does your sick blasting rig.
If you removed your Rapidstrike's stock, you now have a gaping hole. Install this butt plate and now you don't. I included two versions - one has a cutout for a battery connector or a USB port, the other is solid.
Thanks for viewing, and good luck with your Rapidstrike modding.
I've never seen anyone post about the awesome sight that 3DBBQ designed for the C5 Launcher. It snaps onto N-Strike rails and looks cool as hell.
You can buy the STL file from the JSPB site for two bucks and print it on your own machine.
is it a problem if my FWs are not perfectly in the middle of the FWC?
how do i get my motors/flywheels to sit straight?
If a flywheel is askew, it can wobble as it turns. I believe this will fix itself over time as centripetal force pulls it back into position.
If you pushed a flywheel too far onto its motor's shaft, or if the motor isn't seated properly in the cage, the flywheel can rub on the cage. This happened with my Artifact setup. I just gently pried the flywheel up so it was no longer scraping against the cage.
This happened with my Hellcats until they were fully broken-in.
The motors need some runtime to burn off grease and crud left over from production, the factory lubricants need time to penetrate, and the brushes need to wear down to properly fit the shaft.
After an hour or two of continuous running, they should be more consistent.
You can also double-check that your flywheels are consistent.
This is rad. I wish I had access to this when I was still modding my Rapidstrike.
When I make another Rapidstrike, I'll model custom triggers so you don't need to modify the microswitches.
I see what you did there
I have some leftover parts from my Rapidstrike mod. PM MEEEE if you'd like me to bring any of them to the war for trade or sale:
I'm looking for Sledgefire shells, Recon ladder sights, 22-round Worker mags, a one-point sling, Accustrike darts, Koosh darts, a stock Sentinel, and the Modulus bayonet knife.
EDIT: Added subtle emphasis to the "PM me" part
This project is done!
Enjoy some preview pics while I make some videos and a proper write-up.
Internals shot shows the wire routing, processor in back, and Artifact flywheel setup
Except for the crazy motor driver, it looks almost like a stock Rapidstrike
Close-up of the motor driver, with color-coordinated heatsink, caps, and mounting bracket
Mag size and firing parameters are loaded from the RFID tag in the magazine. You can see the red RFID receiver on the mag well.
Close-up of displays. Upper indicates that there's no mag installed. Bottom tracks my loadout, battery voltage, and game time
When the blaster is locked, triggers and motor driver are disabled.
1) Yes. The easiest way is buying 12V LED tape, which you can just run right off the batteries. You could also wire bunches of LED's in series so the forward voltage adds up to 12V or less, and use a resistor to limit the current. Or, you could add a DC-DC step-down converter (also called a buck regulator or switching regulator) to create a low-voltage line that can drive your LEDs.
2) Yes. You will need to regulate the battery voltage to a more manageable level, probably 5V for the Arduino. I would use a switching regulator to do this, because using a linear regulator to drop 12V to 5V will produce a lot of heat and waste a lot of battery.
3) The Tenergy TB6B is a well-designed multi-purpose battery charger, discharger, and balancer. It's well-priced and very popular. It has algorithms that monitor the battery and limit the amount of current it can draw.
The flywheel cage for the Hyperfire is VERY different from the Stryfe or Rapidstrike. It has a canted cage, which whirlybirds darts if you run anything more than Honeybadger and 2S lipo in it.
Totally right. I was referring to the notes I made for the Rapidstrike and they were mistaken.
From my research, the flywheels and motors are the same size as those in the Rapidstrike and Stryfe, but yeah, many aftermarket flywheels will probably misalign in a stock Hyperfire cage.
The Hyperfire hasn't been very popular with modders because its belt-drive pusher is unreliable. There isn't as much documentation about it.
cage, or motor that fits in a Stryfe or Rapidstrike will fit the Hyperfire.
Follow modding best practices, use thick heatproof wires, use high current switches, etc.
The Hyperfire is especially exciting for electronics mods because it has large open pockets of dead space in the front and back.
Interesting, how are you getting the motor rpm?
Another quick status update: Electronics are fully assembled, tested, and confirmed functional. Unlike the previous pic, the display is actually showing dart count, and set its mag size by reading the RFID tag in the magazine.
The Hellcat pusher motor responds exceptionally well to active braking; the pusher homed on the first try after all 90 test shots.
I can't install the heatsink and fan until I build the motor driver enclosure (which is also why the motor driver is awkwardly zip-tied to the front of the blaster). Until then, I'm running the motors at half speed to prevent overheating.
You can't see it from the picture, but the lower display is showing accurate temperature, battery voltage, and runtime. I need to figure out the conversions for the other metrics.
Once the motor driver enclosure is done, I can reassemble the blaster and do full-powered testing. I expect it to run like any Rapidstrike running triple Hellcats - fucking well.
Anyone have a pusher motor cover STL? I had to punch a hole in the shell to fit the 180 hellcat.
Walcom's is flush up agents the brass breech and the receiving piece of brass goes into the breach and in Jay's the piece of brass in the breach has a bit sticking out and that goes into the receiving piece. so that doesn't make a difference ?
and this would be my 1st breach mod what one would YOU recommend ?Ang Jay also mentions 1/2 inch brass, why is this and is it better to use 1/2 inch brass instead of the 17/32 inch brass ?
I wouldn't recommend doing either one. Breeches are difficult mods that need to be executed very well to even work. You seem fairly new to Nerf. I'd do easier mods and get used to working with brass, then tackle this one.
If I were to do one of these, I'd do Walcom's mod. It's easier to build and more likely to perform reliably.
1/2" brass has a snug fit on stock darts. 17/32" brass has a snug fit on most Slugs and other Foam Backer Rod-based homemade darts. You will select the barrel diameter that fits your loadout, and select the other brass parts to fit snugly against that.
You shouldn't worry so much, and just buy some materials and see how things fit. Even if you make a massive mistake, this mod only takes $30 of materials.