- → NinjaBob's Content
There have been 64 items by NinjaBob (Search limited from 05-May 93)
Thanks for taking a look guys n' gals
I'm pretty sure ABS has a lower PSI rating, so PVC is much better for homemades.
I think it would work better for Homemades (such as air tanks and such) than a barrel. Im also pretty sure (this is my hardware store) it costs a little more than pvc, and doesn't come in small enough sizes for barrels.
Well, its kinda strange, Ive got many places to egt my fbr from, and when Im near one of the places, I jsut stop in, and pick up some parts if im in need. Each store carries the same brand fbr, but each stores 1/2 fbr is all slightly different, for example:
My home depot has very fbr.
My localhardware store has very thick fbr.
And then theres another hardware store that carries medium...
So really, It depends on the darts you use. Ivenever tried the thick kind, only the medium and small. Small gave best results btw.
Oh, see that confused me.
No.. Just no. I really don't think your right. That simply makes no sense.
For most people if they push they're darts all the way down a CPVC barrel provides to much friction
Actually, you jsut have to find out which size cpvc is the best. For spring pistols, dont go over 6 inches. Depending on the power of the gun, and the type(air,spring...) you change the barrel length.
you probably won't gain 10 feet from a 2 inch dart pressed down a 4 inch CPVC barrel. Chances are you'll lose 2 or 3 than with a dart blown back in brass or if the dart was just in the end of the CPVC.
I had a 4 inch barrel on my tt, I gained 10 feet by rammming, and greatly reduced the velocity and accuracy of the dart.
Once, my brother just rammed a 7 inch cpvc barrel into his tt, with air restrictor in, no mods, shot, and he got the same ranges of a brass mod. Strange, how it was completely unmodded. Now imagine a 7 inch cpvc breech loader in a modded TTG...
A. It has dried up somewhat and you only have a small leak, and all you need to do is lube the O-ring up, and do so often to keep it from happening again.
B. The O-ring has ripped. You'll have to cut open the tank, and replace the O-ring. I've only done that on a 2k, and its not that hard, but the tank will leak again.
Those are the two major reasons for the their to be a leak, and the two known ways to fix it. I have had one other idea, but that has yet to be tested. That's where you lube up the pin REALLY well and then put silicone around where the pin leaves the tank. hopefully, the silicone will seal the leak, and the lube will keep the silicone from sticking to the pin so it'll still be able to move.
(edit- Most of what I said has alread been said while I was typing and forgot to hit the submit butten)
Thank you. That means a lot coming from you. But yeah, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to spelling. Just think and be horrified at what it would look like if I HADN'T spell checked at all.
Impressive site. It's obvious that you put a lot of work into actually getting some content up there before telling everyone about it.
Not to detract from the above, cause I really do like the site, but spellcheck is your friend.
How does that work for thinner tubing that goes inside the hole not over it?
neg. epoxy, plumbers goop, glue etc. is all unsuitable for this job. hose clamp, go buy a hose clamp for vinyl tubing, you'll find it right next to the vinyl tubing. it's a little metal band that clicks tight with a screwdriver.