Haven't been active here in a long time, but a friend and I are planning on making the trip from here in WA down to Armageddon this year if we can get the time off work.
Is there anyone in the local 'Geddon area that could house us the night before the war? That would be a huge help.

I vote a change from this coming weekend, August 7th, to next weekend, August 14th.
It's pretty likely that I won't be able to make it this weekend. Next weekend should be better.
Any other input?
Come on, Washington. I know you're out there. And this is a beautiful location.

Doubling as a bump, I'll post to confirm that, assuming we work out this driving business, I will be there. With a possible plus one. Let's hope for no rain, though that's asking a bit much for Washington.
What kind of range caps are we looking at here? Would, say, a quadded 2k be acceptable?

The bladder is pain to get screwed back down to the case. Have a person push the white piece to the screw wells while you screw it down. Everything looks like it's in the right place, it just requires some force to get back together.
And I used Plumbers Goop on my leaky Magstrike.

If I remember right, Blackfox's Nitefinder ranges were less than satisfactory unless he held the turret down. I don't know if this was a flaw in his mod, or a flaw in the reverse turret, though. He also had issues with major hop-up. I would guess this is from the force from the plunger pushing the turret spring, which loosened the whole turret. The poor ranges could be because of this as well.
I haven't seen the thing in forever, so this is mostly based on memory, but I remember doing several tests with it.
I'd say it would probably work best on an air gun.
And yes, he has quite a good taste in music.

I was going to get a ride with a friend's parent, who's also 14. Also, I live very close to Oly high school, Part time. I spend my summer's out on a farm.

Alright, well I'll talk about it amongst my group and see if something works out with them. Otherwise, that would work out well. I'd probably be within five minutes of your house.

Are you getting a ride with your parents there?
And what part of Olympia do you live in?

If I can find myself a ride, I'll be there. I'd say I'll most likely be there. Finding a ride can't be too difficult, can it?

Check to see if the notch on the clip is broken. I had the exact same problem with mine.

The 20th is like a Tuesday. We're looking at the 16th/17th.
Are we going for a Saturday or Sunday?

I couldn't care less whether it's on a Saturday or Sunday. Saturdays might be a little easier on people, but not me personally. Though, I'm not even sure if I'll be able to make this one.
I'm busy the 19th/20th and 26th/27th of this month, and the 10th/11th of October. That leaves just October 3rd/4th for me, unless you want to reschedule beyond the 10th/11th. But at that point you might as well just have this war and host another around then.

Something just came up, reducing my chances of going to somewhere around zero. I'll go with one or two percent. You never know what could happen.

I haven't kept up with this at all, but I'm sure I've been spoken for. I'll just confirm that I will most likely be there.
I'm gonna be pissed when that area is closed off again. That little section just doesn't compare.

Is anyone willing to make some legit flags for this war? That would be much better than using random people's shirts.

I have never seen anyone use one, or even heard of one, so I'd say bring it and test it out. I'm sure most people would say the same.

Okay, I just got done looking through the thread for twenty minutes, and I don't a single post stating that we are going to run the war off "home field rules".
I thought the voting system worked out the best. It's best to appeal to the masses, and that's exactly what we were doing. If you want to bring your RSFGs to test them out at the war, then I think that's alright. But I don't think they should be automatically legal just because we voted to have the war at the same place W@M is hosted.

If it's assumed that we're having home field rules, does that mean you are going to allow shields? Because I'm sure as hell there will be an overwhelming majority vote against that.
Once again, I think we should just bring them to the war, then give them some test shots. Then we will vote again. People who are still against them will stand on one side, and the people for them will stand on the other. I'd say that's much more fair than a single person deciding what goes.

I think if we're going to go so much into detail about restrictions on the gun, it should just be banned. I'm still all for not allowing them. Just about every gun has its own ups and downs. Magstrikes have great rate of fire, but lack range, so you can beat that by staying out of that player's range. Crossbows have great range, but lack rate of fire, so you can beat that by grouping, rushing, or just avoiding that one shot. But Doomsayers have superior range and rate of fire... What can you do against that? And keeping the same amount of Doomsayers on each team just makes teams balanced, not the individual players. If I don't have a Doomsayer, then I have to try to avoid the person on the other team with one until my team's Doomsayer shows up to even it out.

I don't see how it's a big deal if they are banned. This war is still like four months away. That's more than enough time to pick out and modify a new primary. And just with the thought of allowing them, we already have people stopping their current projects to go out and buy a RFSG just because they know they're overpowered. Personally, I love seeing variety at the wars. I think it's really neat to see what everyone prefers to use at the wars and I like to see the individual play styles. It makes people more unique and the wars more interesting and more fun. I would way rather see teams with Longshots, Magstrikes, Airtechs, Supermaxxes, and a whole variety of other guns than just straight Doomsayers.

My vote stays at ban them 100%.

Oh, you guys just wait and see what I'm going to be doing to my Titan. Your Ballzooka will shake in fear.
...Or it won't work and I'll show up with a Reactor. That's plan B.

And on the topic of swords and shields... I'm alright with them as long as they count as gun hits.

I think he was talking about a backup location if something were to happen. I think looking into schools near Marymoor park would be a great idea. Having the war on a Monday drastically reduces chances of a soccer game or some other event going on at a school.

Nice work. I remember seeing this a few weeks back. I don't remember how sturdy it was. How well does the stock hold up with just a single connection? If it's weak, maybe you should have a threaded end on the gun with a threaded coupler on the stock.

Why?

The 2k is has a large shell as it is and you just made it bigger. The easy removal seems like it would fall off in a war that has any sort of vigor. Also, the shortness of the stock will make you hunch down to use, which hampers your ease of movement.

In addition, either you are using the wrong barrel materiel entirely or you have very thin foam to make a good fit in cpvc.

Just my honest opinion.

Just want to say that the shell is just a bit bigger than my hand and is in no way a big shell. And the barrel is PVC with PETG nested inside, look at the end of the barrel not in the coupler.

I have a whole bunch of guns I'd be looking to sell. I'd have to go check, but I know I have 3 SuperMaxx 1500's, a SuperMaxx 750, an old style Nitefinder or two, and a whole assortment of modded guns I no longer use.

And about the ball gun round, would a Titan modded to fire balls be allowed? I could probably hack up my Titan into something suitable for a ball gun round.

Put me down as a no, too.
Nothing really to be said about it, as you already addressed my issues with them.

Generally, with nerf guns, a high ROF has trade offs, as does high ranges. Most guns with high ranges don't have an extremely good ROF. Guns with a good ROF, don't usually hit the century mark. The doomsayer is one of the only exceptions to these general facts about modified blasters. Something that can send 12 pieces of foam 100 feet away in 12 seconds is cheap in my book, no matter who's wielding it. It upsets the fairness of the game when most people have 2K's, BBB's, PAS's, BBBB's, SM 1.5K's, and X-Bows.

I agree 100%.

But you are right in that the gun doesn't make the nerfer.

Maybe so, but it's definitely getting closer.

Marymoor is pretty open, but I think it can add to the game. It forces people to move a lot, and keeps the pace fast. At the first W@M, we did some rounds with 3 or 4 teams of 3 and it moved really fast and played really well.
I'd take too little cover over too much cover.

The area at Marymoor was pretty empty, and we never had any problems with using it, aside from that concert landing on the same day. It was sort of divided into sections (area closest to the parking lot, middle area with the big building, furthest out area with the little shelter), these areas could be adjusted depending on how many people make it (ex: Middle area only, or middle and parking lot areas only).

I have never seen Seaward park, so I don't know how the location will be. If anyone lives near there, going out and taking some pictures would be great.

The only real concern I have is if we get kicked out of one area, what would we do then? Do either Marymoor or Seaward have a backup location nearby?

I will do everything I can to make it to the Washington war on the 20th. I can't think of anything that could conflict with it. Though, it is six months away.

I did a quick Google search, and only found places selling it for over $30, like this place.
I both of mine a long time ago here, however the site says it is discontinued.
Otherwise, I'd call up a local Cabellas or other outdoor sports shop.

Edit: Us Nerfers refer to it as the Pump Action Shotgun, or as people have been recently saying, the PAS. A Google search under the name "ERTL Foam Shooter" gave better results than "ERTL Pump Shotgun".

I really like how little it affects the size. I also really like the use of the Longshot barrel. I think I might have to use that in a similar way. If I get an Airtech 3000, I'm definitely going to be doing something like this to it.
Great job.

That's a very interesting and unique concept you've got there. The EaB is a very underrated blaster in my opinion. Nice work.


-Groove

Thanks. I totally agree EaBs are real underrated, and that's one of the main reasons I decided to mod it this way.

Nice job, man! Can I expect to see this any WA state wars?

I have brought this to a couple wars here in Washington, but never used it outside of just local wars just with my little group. I need to put down my PAS and give it a try sometime.

That has got to be one of the most impressive mods I've ever seen. The balance you've struck between ROF and range is wonderful, and I can only imagine this gun is very versatile as a result. Great job.

Thank you. I love having the back up inline clip, it works real well at keeping people back when I need them to.


I also forgot to mention in the write up somewhere a little feature I didn't intend, but has helped me a bit. Because the wire connecting to the pin has some extra space before it's pulled, I can fire off the inline shot without the 1500 going off. It acts somewhat like a Splitfire, but with a big range difference between shots.

Awesome. Great work. I really like the stock peice that you added, does that increase accuracy at all?

The stock really helps steady aim while running, bracing it against your shoulder helps keep it steady while your hands are wobbling around.

I love the idea. But one thing you need to work on is the trigger system. To me it looks like when you pull the trigger the air tank pin gets pulled upward. And then not as much air gets out as fast and will brake the pin after some time. But it is a great mod.

Because of how stiff the wire is, it doesn't really pull up on the pin much at all. It opens the tank as much as it can and you can hear the pop of the air rushing out rather than a slower, hiss kind of sound.

Im happy that you posted this. I bought an eab from coop a few days ago. I thought eabs got better ranges though. CXWQ's mod says 75ft. I think coop got in the 60s. ANyway, good job with the clip, and integration.

The reason this only gets mid 50's is because the inline clip adds more dead space and the darts in there bock some of the air flow.

Wow, finally! I remember you perfecting this when I first started nerfing.

/nostalgia

I hope you eventually get the video up, I remember the clips we took being pretty cool.

A video for this is pretty unlikely. I'd have to take more shots, then edit and put together the whole thing. I think I'm just going to save the video ideas for another mod.

I forgot to add in the write up that the handle should definitely be padded. All the added weight really makes your hand ache after some use. Going to add the into the write up now...

The bottom piece is against the bottom of the gun, right above the handle. It's glued inside that little section that the worthless pop out stock used to be, and braced against all sides of the shell it contacts and is glued on heavily. The end result is a very sturdy stock. I push on it a lot, especially when pumping, and it doesn't budge. Another picture of the stock. I added some electrical tape to cover up the ugly hot glue.


And to keep reload times down, I added some ammo holders which I frequently use when firing pot shots with the SM1500 tank. I cut a slot out of the PVC and cut a piece of cardboard to fit in there. I wrapped it in electrical tape to make it more weather resistant, then threw little brushes of red to make it a little less boring. That is then glued on to the cut section of PVC and then finally pieces of PETG are glued on top of that.


Lastly, put some foam along the handle to pad it down a bit, especially on the area right below the trigger and below the stock where most of the weight would push on your hand. I just used some FBR and electrical tape. Anything should work, just make it a little more comfortable.


And you're done! You have turned your stock my-gun-explodes-in-my-hands-when-I-pull-the-handle-down Expand-a-Blast into a worthy primary capable of firing one long ranged shot backed by several short ranged shots that can fire off as fast as you can cock the gun and pull the trigger.

And, of course, ranges.
The inline clip EaB shots:
1. 43'
2. 52.5'
3. 65'
4. 55'
5. 50.5'
Average: 53.2'

My inline clip holds four darts, plus one in the barrel, so five shots were fired.
I have had some issues with double shots, I still need to experiment with my barrel a bit. I'm using heavy wall PETG, and I think I need something a bit tighter.

The SM1500 tank:
1. 100'
2. 85'
Average: 92.5'

I only fired two shots with this one, after the two, it was clear that this thing was capable of firing a reliable high 80's shot. If I remember right, the 100' was angled up very slightly, then I lowered it for the second shot.

All ranges are flat and rounded/estimated slightly because it's hard to get exactly where the dart hit the ground. Also, ranges are not including dart skip, they are roughly where the dart hit the ground.



I had a nice video shot for this, but it took forever to get things required to get it on the computer, and so I gave up on that. It would need to be edited and everything, as it's currently just a bunch of clips. The video was the main reason this took so long to get posted, along with other projects I was working on, one of which is also overdue... I need to get on that.
Anyway, enjoy. Sorry for any blurry photos on here. If I had the choice, I would go back and take clearer ones, but I can't open it up because the stock is glued down to both halves of the gun. If you want any specific picure of the exterior just tell me and I'll see if I can get one uploaded.

And if anyone is wondering, the name "Edge" didn't really come from anything specific. I wanted a short name that sounded nice and wasn't real corny. Edge just kinda came to my mind and stuck.

Then you need to cut and sand the shell. Here's what mine looks like.


And a more zoomed out shot:


After a ton of sanding, cutting and testing, glue your tank down. Use hot glue to hold it in place at first, then either load up the hot glue or use a stronger adhesive of your choice.


After you've got that glued down, you need to connect the firing pin to the trigger. Get out some wire wrap it around the firing pin and and glue it to the trigger. I think I wrapped it around the trigger before gluing it on there to make sure that it doesn't come off. If you don't use a solid wire like I did, I'd recommend replacing the trigger spring with a stronger one.


In order to get your pump outside of the shell, you need to find a way for the vinyl tubing to come to the outside. Remove the pump from the vinyl tubing. Unscrew the piece that holds to pump and tubing together so all you have to do is pull the tubing off. Don't try to remove the tubing from the tank, it's glued on. Push the tubing through the slot on the side of the shell.


It should look something like this, just without the black handle. Glue the black handle like that, though. I tried to cover the tank and keep it in a nice comfortable spot to use.


I glued the pump up on the side of the scope looking thing. The handle on the SM1500 is too big to fit there, so I replaced it with the one off my broken Magstrike. Glue the pump tube down with a generous about of hot glue. It's gotta be sturdy if you're gonna be pumping the tank up to decent pressure.


You will also need a barrel for the integrated tank, and you might notice there is no hole for a barrel to come out. So we just have to make our own. Dremel out the front so a barrel of your choice can fit out the front. I used the medium wall PETG, and I I probably should have gone with something more stable, like brass. I have to be extra careful with that barrel. The Dremeled case:


Glue your barrel on to the tank, then to the shell so it doesn't wobble around. Mine came loose and can wiggle around a bit, but it stays straight when it's not being pushed on. Try to keep this barrel straight, otherwise you'll have to adjust to the off center aim. I think mine shoots just a bit high.


Next, I added a stock for several reasons. The stock makes it much more comfortable to hold, it makes aiming easier especially while running, it makes pumping much, much easier because you can brace it against your shoulder, and it just makes it look cooler. So here's the stock. I added pipe insulator to make it softer against my shoulder.


I used 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC for the stock, no elbows or anything, just glued PVC together. The stock has to be sturdy, otherwise you won't want to use it if you fear it might break. So I found the best spots I could glue it on to. For the top piece, I glued it actually inside the scope looking thing. It sticks in there a bit, then I used pieces of 1/2" CPVC to stabilize it more, then loads of hot glue. I also flipped that little plastic thing inside the scope up to use it for aiming, but it fell off and got lost.

It's definitely about time I get this post up here... This is long, long overdue. Like, I've had it finished since the beginning of this year overdue. Because of this, I have forgotten all the precise measurements and I can't open the gun back up. However, if I can figure this stuff out, then you should be able to as well. At least it taught me to put all important information into the little captions under the pictures in my Photobucket. Anyway, on to the mod.

The Expand-a-Blast... A not-so-popular gun, and at first glance, it's not surprising why. The gun is large, way too large for a sidearm, but it seems to lack the potential to make it a primary. My goal was to change that.

So first is to, obviously, open the gun up. No real secret screws that I can remember, and it's got those nice big screws that the older guns have, I really like those. Sorry I don't have any pictures of the internals, but they're nice and simple. Remove all of that expanding garbage, it's all useless. Keep the black handle though, it's nice to have and we'll be using it later. Just keep the plunger, plunger tube, trigger and the catch.

First, I did a simple spring replacement. I used one of those handyman springs that are real popular to use for Nitefinder spring replacements. The dimensions are 7/8" x 4" x .080". The length might be slightly different, as these are the dimensions to what my Home Depot now stocks, and if I remember right, were a little bit different. The 7/8" width and .080" gauge are what's important.


Next up, the air restrictor. Get your plunger tube, and make it look like this.


Alright, here's where things start to change. Take a look at the internals. There's a huge useless barrel in front of a very short but wide plunger tube, allowing for a shorter but faster airflow. To me, this thing just screamed "Inline Clip!". So get a 1/2" PVC coupler and chop one side off, so you have a section for 1/2" PVC to go then the little divider thing. This needs to seal in the big barrel as close to the plunger tube as possible. Wrap electrical tape around it until it fits snug back there. Don't make it too tight or you will stress the plastic. You should be able to push it down fairly easily, but it should be snug.


Now you need a section of 1/2" THINWALL PVC to be the inline clip. This will attach to your half coupler in the back of the barrel and connect to a full coupler on the front for a barrel. Cut it long enough so you can fit a coupler on top that sticks out about halfway. Glue the half coupler to one end of this.


Now on the end of the half coupler you need something to keep the darts from falling into the plunger tube. I cut a toothpick to size and glued it on there. Anything will work as long as there's no chance of a dart slipping through it. Note in this picture I was using 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC, not thinwall. It didn't work. I had to switch over to thinwall.


Now slide that into the plunger tube. If your electrical tape is snug enough, it shouldn't need to be glued, the tape should seal well. Here's a picture of about how far your full coupler should stick out. Mine is almost a perfect size and sits just short of flush with the case when the gun is together. Once you have that measured out alright, glue the coupler to the thinwall PVC. Then wrap electrical tape around the coupler and glue it to the big orange barrel. When you put the case back together, you might notice that it doesn't come together in the front. You need to Dremel it out to make room for the coupler.


I think mine had trouble catching, so I reinforced it a bit.


And now it needs a barrel. Cut a length of 1/2" PVC and put a barrel of choice on there. You want it to be tight in the back. Otherwise when the gun is fired, darts will just fly through your barrel instead of stopping in the back.


In case you don't know how an inline clip works, I'll give a little description. Darts are loaded end to end in the thinwall PVC, then one is loaded in the barrel. When the gun is fired, most of the pressure from the plunger flows around your stacked up line of darts and shoots the dart out the barrel, and some of it pushes your line up, where a dart is then pushed into the back of your barrel, ready to be fired. Pretty neat. Thank Carbon for coming up with and building the first inline clip. It's a brilliant design.

Ok, so now you have your inline clip Expand-a-Blast. And you're not done yet. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't want to go into a war with just that as my primary.

So I decided to take another step and integrate a SuperMaxx 1500 into it. Yes, I'm sure an Airtech 2000 will work as a substitute. I had three or four SM1500s sitting around at the time, so I decided to use one of those.

I figured right where the black handle is would be the best, and maybe the only, spot where the tank could fit. So bust out your Dremel and prepare to sand. A lot. First, take your black handle pieces that look like this:


And do this:

What kind of glue did you get? Amazing goop is just a brand, and it has several different types you can get. The one everyone uses is called Amazing Goop Plumbing and it comes in a purple tube.

The thread he was referring to...

And no, we don't know if they will be made into actual guns.

Here you go. Had some troubles getting it on my computer...

Sorry for the not-so-great quality, it was with my phone.
Each little tile is a 4 1/2" square.
And the stock on the Crossbow is much more comfortable than the stock on the Pump Shotgun. The Pump Shotgun one is way too short, I never brace it against my shoulder when I use it.
And, no, my coupler is on my Crossbow is not crooked, it's broken at the moment. It's not even attached.

If the head is completely stripped and there's no way you can unscrew it, there are two things I know of that you can do. One, you can take a drill with a bit roughly the same size as the head and drill away the head. Or you can take a cutting wheel to the side of it and cut the screw in two pieces (only works on screws bordering the gun). Both will make it difficult to use that screw well again because there will still be a headless screw there.

Pros:
Dancing out of the shelter after planting the bomb
After a fellow teammate planted the bomb but died before exiting I ran in and touched it and escaped.

I didn't die! That was the funny thing; the guy knocked the skull off the table, but didn't shoot me and turned his back on me. So I promptly shot him in the back. Easiest shot of my life.

He was talking about to the first game that the offense won when I sprinted into the building, dropped the skull off, then got bombarded. Then he just ran in, touched it again, then ran back out.

You can get a pipe cutter, they cut very clean, very straight lines, but they leave a little indent that often needs to be flared out or sanded away. You can also use a dremel with a cutting wheel. This is what I normally do, unless I need the cut perfectly straight. With some practice, though, you can get cuts pretty straight.

yeah chat it up here.


As to the hostages thing. Have you ever played counterstrike? Its the hostages scenario type deal. you have a couple people play hostages and they are at a set point. That point is guarded by team A and the hostages are theirs. Team B who starts at a seperate point tries to rescue the hostages. Each person gets a # of lives and have to return to a spawn point after a count out to resume play. If you hit a hostage they lose a hit point. they lose too many and they die. If you kill a hostage you also lose a life.

Something like that. You get the idea.

I have never played Counterstrike before. I'm guessing to rescue a hostage you just tap them or something?
What do the hostages do in the meantime?

I remember a long while back I was airsofting with a group of friends. We played a game where when you were shot, you went to the other team's jail, which was just a spot on their side of the field. To rescue someone from a jail, you just had to run inside the jail and touch a player.

Edit: TantumBull, this is our third war this year. We hold an annual WALL War in Port Orchard, and this, W@M.

Assault/Siege rounds including the windmill would be cool. I don't know what the hostage thing is. Could you explain that one a bit?

And we could try a Highlander round across both fields.
I don't know how well a more open field like this one would do with VIP, but that could be worth a try as well.
Edit: I'd throw in a vote for Gunslinger Heaven. I've never had the chance to play that, but it sounds pretty awesome.