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Phree Agent's Content
There have been 220 items by Phree Agent (Search limited from 11-June 93)
The spiderman and venom wrist blasters would probably do the trick.
This is mine a few years back. It had a spring and barrel replacement and shot just as well as a modded nitefinder. I will say that in a running/jumping/holding another blaster type of situation, it was nearly impossible to aim.
Edit: Maybe people don't know how this blaster works. You pull the red piece that my fingertips are touching out until it catches. The plunger rod slides back into the blaster into it's starting position. To fire the blaster, you press inwards on the same red piece.
That being said, this "tutorial" needs some pictures to be worth keeping, in my opinion.
Also, on a more relevant note: I have found that shooting high powered blasters into a box through something thin such as tin foil doesn't contain the darts very well. They carry so much power that they end up bouncing off (or penetrating) the back wall of the box and out the front of the box again. If a box type target interests you, and you are shooting high powered blasters into it, I recommend hanging a sheet of cloth from the ceiling of the box to hang freely behind the paper/tin foil target. This sheet will slow the darts considerably so that a) you darts don't bounce back out of the box and your darts don't deform as much from impact when doing some simple target shooting.
Also, I kind of prefer the larger ammo. I think that is what makes this blaster fun and unique. If we want to push the limits on clip fed blasters, there are plenty out there currently that have adequate room for improvement/innovation.
**NOTE: The price I quoted was for the blaster AND the kit
Break what to the what? And why? Sorry, just not clear as to why I shouldn't do something.
If I understand correctly, he is talking about a piece that is part of the external slide that goes through a bit of the pump in order to pump it using the external slide. Think of it as the pin in a maverick that usually breaks if you do spring replacements. It is the same concept. The pressure would be greater, thus putting more stress on this cross piece of the slide, and will potentially break it off.
Now, for why I really wanted to post:
This "mod guide" is pretty terrible. I'm not trying to strike you down for posting it, but there is very little substance here. First off, I (and I know I can't be the only one) don't even know what this blaster looks like or how it functions. I shouldn't have to supplement your "guide" with a google search just to see what blaster we are even discussing. Add more information, and actually "guide" me through the process. I (and new people visiting the site) would really appreciate it.
Sorry for the soapbox, mods, but I know you must agree with me.
I am not trying to discourage you from building from scratch, I just think for your purposes this is a slightly better idea.
On a side note, threads created with a less than complete blaster, are usually not taken well by the higher-ups even though your diagrams are at least above average.
Edit: Filter fixes.
Edit 2: You sneaky sneaky.
I know places here (Harrisonburg, VA) are a foot or so under water, as a reference.
Edit: Answering this question at any point before 8am tomorrow would be super helpful. The sooner the better.
Just a warning: Things might get a little "sili" at this war
Damn it, I am punny. These darts are still in the testing phase, but pending that they work well, they will be for sale in the coming days/months. I can make the heads in any color you so choose!
In other news, I MIGHT have a +1. I need to convince Ryan to come.
I understand that it wouldn't seal perfectly, however with a tape seal you are left with a small opening (roughly 1mm by 1 mm judging by the picture) as opposed to the much larger opening, and the blaster still works well with the larger one.
What Carbon was trying to illustrate earlier was that any sort of indentation (whether plugged or not) will vent the pressure that is being built in front of the plunger head. Someone also alluded to the fact that if you widened the plunger head seal to be wider than the gaps, the pressure will not be able to escape because at no point in time will there be a passage from in front of the seal to behind the seal.
After watching your video demonstrating functionality, I don't think there's an easy/practical way to get the look you want while retaining that exact functionality.
Because the force of priming is taken up entirely by that ring (purple from solvent weld), you're going to encounter crazy amounts of torque on any sort of adhesive bond, most of which were designed only for lateral stress. You also have almost 0 surface area to bond to.
Mechanically fastening is also going to be a pain because there is barely any material concentrically.
My best ideas are:
1) That purple ring/sliding piece that you use to pull back the plunger rod and then prime the blaster should not have a hole for the CPVC to attach to, because wall thickness is too low for any sort of structural strength. Instead, take a piece of 5/8" solid rod, drill an appropriately sized hole through it (have fun centering that), dremel it down (this part will be awful) to fit the curvature of your PVC ring, and then use a screw from the inside of the ring into the rod. A 1/4-20 screw is probably strong enough to withstand the priming forces.
2) Use a PVC tee and slide it through there so that way the plunger rod can fit through and you have a single molded piece to attach your cocking bolt to. This may require you completely redesign your blaster so the pieces fit
Thanks Zorn, I think I will give option 1 a try next. I will keep this thread posted with results.
Drill a 1/2" hole through the cpvc rod and stick nylon/delrin./alum/ whatever into it, then sheth it wih a 1/2ID/5/8OD tube to coupler onto the cpvc handle. That may hold it. You can also fill in that space with putty. Lube up the cpvc and putty around it. The lube will keep the putty from sticking and you'll hve something solid to support the handle.
I am not sure I understand your first suggestion, but I would rather not drill any holes into the PR. I would have to do a slotted rod, and that is a pain as you know. The putty idea sounds good, I just don't have a lot of room to work with between the PR and the "cocking slide" to add a substantial depth of putty. I will give it a shot though if no other ideas surface. Thanks Hero.
I have been working on this bolt-action blaster project of mine for quite some time now, and have a working prototype version completed. Sadly, one of the pieces (for this thread I will refer to it as the cocking slide) is not strong enough to withstand the leverage/stress it is required to hold. This blaster is loosely designed around the blaster found here: , by Wes.
I would really prefer to use a more Bolt action type priming mech in my blaster as opposed to his (but they function very similarly). Here is my video showing the functionality of my blaster, as well as how the piece in question primes the blaster. (Sorry for the crappy video. Hopefully, even through the painfully pixel-y picture you can see how this thing functions)
For those who might be better reading than watching, the bolt action handle is lifted and is pulled backwards on the blaster. This handle is connected to the “cocking slide” that pulls the entire plunger rod back into the catch. At this point, the spring is not compressed. The plunger rod is caught (by the rainbow catch), and the cocking slide is then returned to it’s original position thus priming the spring against the plunger head. The trigger is pulled, and the plunger rod shoots forward. Return to step one.
The “cocking slide” currently is made of a ¾ to 1/2 reducer that has been reamed out so that my ½ in CPVC plunger rod can slide through it.
My question to everyone with homemade knowledge is: Is there a way to attach the bolt action handle to this “cocking slide” piece so that it can be strong enough to prime a [k26] in the levering position it is in? I have tried Goop, Super Glue, and PVC cement. Any help or suggestions would be great.
(This blaster isn’t finished yet obviously. Still needs some cosmetic work, but worked for a while before the cocking slide to bolt action handle was broken)
Specs: 1-1/4 PT, ~7 inches of draw, full [k26] inside. Has a hardware store cup seal on a cpvc PR. It’s a monster to prime, but hopefully with proper material strength it will become easier. Ranges easily break 100.
Some things you need to explain further so that we can help you:
What mods have you done to the blaster
Does blaster rattle when you shake it
Does the crashing noise sound like something is broken or shattered, or just a loud bang?
Frankly, we need pictures. 3Bs are loud to begin with, so we need more information.
Silcone domes with 3/0 fishing weights in the stem. I wanted to make my heads heavier, but 3/0s were all I had. A BB might be a better alternative. Each head weighs >1.2g. Some of them aren't perfectly round because I did a poor job scraping my domes mold before applying the stem mold.
I poured the domes and let them cure for >24 hours. Then I added the stem mold on top. I would recommend leaving the stems to cure on top of the domes for >72 hours.
I haven't given them any kind of durability test yet (Stomping, smashing, ect.) or even put them on any foam yet, but I can say that the metal weight is completely covered by the silicone AND they are soft and bouncy.
I will mount these on some foam before too long and have some durability, range, and safety data to share at some point.
PM me with questions or comments.
Concept of final product
Domes sitting on top of foam. No stems or hole yet. (Just to give an idea)
This is the bit I used, thus the tiny dimple in the center of the domes. It was $5 at Ace. I used Polyethylene cutting board as the molds. The stem mold was drilled with 1/4 holes.
Overall, my first attempt was pretty poor. You can see that some of the domes have some air bubbles/imperfections but for a trial run I am considering it alright. I don't have a scale that weighs any smaller than whole grams, so I can only say that these weigh much less than a gram (with the stem).
PM with questions or suggestions. This dart making thing is interesting to say the least.
It was great to nerf with all you guys again (and nice to meet you for the first time Lionhawk). I really wish the northerners could have made the trek, but it was fun nonetheless.
+Fork in the tree
+Getting kills with my noble steed, the Snotblast
+The usual DC crew
+Really, really like the location (for wars smaller than 12 people)
-Was anticipating bigger turn out
-Didn't have a ball valve so RBP and Sceptor were pretty terribad.
Did you change anything else when you repaired the blaster? Did you add a substantial amount of extra tubing between the pump and the tank? Is the pump stroke just as long as before?