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There have been 445 items by NerfRogue83 (Search limited from 12-January 93)
I dub thee........"MEGAJOLT"
Yep---that's a BuzzBee "Rogue" turret :twisted: ---17/32 barrels, improved seal, BB"Rogue" spring, and dead space minimization. Even with the turret it hits better than stock ranges, with obviously higher ROF.
Having said that, most SE Nerf wars of late have been hosted in Georgia, Florida, and Tennesee---so contacting Nerfers from those states may help you pull a war together.
Does the power increase make up for the added deadspace?
I tend to think so--an average of 65' flat from some fairly mild mods is pretty encouraging. I have more coming----which should really show how much the added deadspace affects the ranges------if at all. Many modders found that doing the "Straw" mod didnt help the Recons Range at all----so we will see.
I'd have to disagree. The dart tooth is gone seeing as the PETG has no cuts for it to fit through. The dart gets pushed into the PETG barrel and the 17/32" brass seals it when the breach is closed. The dart won't go into the 17/32" segment when the PETG is going to create a lot less friction as it's looser on the dart.
Rogue, correct me if I'm wrong here.
Tantum----sounds right. The 17/32 is the pusher, haven't had a dart go inside the brass stub yet---because they are a PETG fit and thus a tad big to easily slide into the stub. As long as you cut the stub short as shown in the write-up---you shouldn't get any dart-chop. If you do, your brass stub is too long.
So unless I am entirely missing the point, this setup (using different sizes in brass, and nesting brass inside the PETG) can be adjusted to fit different size darts, correct?
The fit can be changed by nesting a 17/32 barrel in the PETG. So, if you cant find a good PETG fit---you can simply nest some 17/32. This way you can still use your breech, while changing foam sizes.
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the recon's plunger type too low in volume to pull 100'?
I can't say as of right now, but so far I am pleased with the results. An average of 65' fired flat---outdoors. With what I have planned, I hope to edge closer anyway.
Proof for doubters:
Thanks for all the feedback guys.
I think I got the small amout of the beige I have from one of the Georgia guys......can't remember who.
Wow. Chill out guys. A thread is not the place to be airing all your feuding. Let's get back to the mod disscussion please. I actually like that this mod is cheap and fairly simple. Would you lose performance if your darts aren't springer fit in petg though? I know for one my darts are definitely not that tight.
The performance is certainly better with a good dart fit----of course. I have some (not Much) biege that fits just right, thats what was fired in the video.
To everyone that asked questions----thanks! I posted this here to show as many as possible a cheap and easy way to make their Recon actually worth its weight. I have more to do, and hopefully when its done the Recon will stand a chance as a lower powered outdoor primary.
I think it's pretty cool what Orange Mod Works is doing, creating all metal arts for nerf guns, but when you think about it, lets look at this from a few points of view.
HVZ player/General person
This is amazing for a college kid or HVZ player, someone who isn't really into modding but very much into nerfing. It's also prefect for say, an office worker who has office wars and wants an edge, or something of the like. It's cheap, easy to install, and won't break, whats better then that?
There's no creativity what so ever. This just took the modding out of modding. If kits like this come out for each nerf blaster, as it seems would be the best financial gain for the company, then whats the point in even modding in the first place? We mod to keep up with each other, to attempt to keep the field level in play. We'll all be running around with the same blasters with all metal internals, all shooting the same distances, never having any problems, great ROF and Range, and nerfing will no longer be nerfing. The thing that attracts me to nerf, as I'm sure it does alot of people, is the creativity involved with it. It's not fun if things go right 100% of the time, and if you can't build something on your own. What makes this any different then airsoft or paintball? Sure, it doesn't shoot as far or hurt as much, but really, whats the difference?
Really, I do think the kits are a cool idea. I just think it also just takes the fun away. Will I use them? I'll give them a try. Am I against them? Only to a certain level. Sorry if this is a little off topic for this thread, but I thought it would be a good place to bring it up.
If these kits were only created for a few kinds of blasters, or only certain parts for each blasters, then I'd be entirely for them. Cause then you still get to do something yourself and be creative with accomplishing a mod. But with nothing to go wrong with them, then theres no thought put into a blaster from a modders stand point. Am I the only one that is thinking along these lines?
Actually----its not the place to bring it up. You are entitled to your opinion, but you didnt need to thread-jack a write-up to state your viewpoint.You would shit a brick if this was done in your thread. A simple thread in General nerf or Off topic would have done. Thank you for this----it was helpfull to those interested in the modification. Too blunt?--Sorry(Not really)
EDIT: Thanks for the PM ice-----its cute that you think I care about your opinion of me.......and that I am on "thin ice" (pun?)
I really like the simplicity of the breech. The ability to fire stefans is a major bonus in my opinion. Is it designed in a way so that the stefan goes INSIDE the 17/32 brass? or does the brass push it into the PETG? And if it is medium wall PETG, wouldn't it be too loose on your darts? or are they just really fat?
Thanks for doing such a nice clear write up.
The 17/32 acts as a dart pusher---as well as the seal for the breech. Interestingly: A segment of 17/32 could also easily be nested in the barrel, positioned so that the dart is pushed in the brass---while still leaving a small amount of PETG left to seal against the stub in the bolt. INSTANT dart-fit change!
I have a small amount of foam that is a good fit for medium walled PETG. I do need more......wink,wink...
I'm assuming that 70'' is flat, right? the 80'' Orange Mod Works claims is angled.
I wouldnt waste my time measuring/shooting anything BUT shots fired flat.
Also to be noted is that the shots were single BB stefans.....I will be using 3/0's for the next stage, and I will report on any advantage or loss.
Just guesstimating here but I would suspect it to be around 60 feet? Also, do you have have any plans for reinforcing the plunger tube due to the fact that Recon's PTs seem to be prone to breaking
Honestly---without measurements (for now) I have to say its like 70', which is of course my guess based on the fact that it seems to fire about as hard as "Ratchet". I expect to clear 80' easily once I get my OMW stage2 kit, and add a preload spacer. I was going to make a L/R PT---but I will have my OrangeModWorks stage2 kit in like three weeks, so no point.
Ok, so I got some goodies today-----my Stage1 kit, and a clear Recon :mrgreen:
I am making this write-up to show you how to take your Recon a step further---so I will assume you have taken your A/R out, and improved your plunger seal. Its not a bad idea to pad+reinforce the back of the PT also. I would have installed a L/R, but it's only like 18 days until I get my stage2 kit from OrangeModWorks. Anywho, open up your Recon----remove all your internals:
Throw away the dart tooth----from here on we are firing stefans! Grab a segment of PETG, and wrap with E-tape as shown:
Install your wrapped PETG into the Recons barrel guide/stub as shown.......
Secure with Hotglue at the front AND back. You want the PETG to stay put!
Take a 1" stub of 17/32 brass--- with some strategic sanding to the ID of the Recons bolt it will slid in. The key is to sand the ID so the brass stub is nice and snug. Also a key----sand the top and sides so your PETG can slide freely without binding. Your stub should look like this:
When positioned, secure the stub with superglue. Your finished breech....
This is an adapted version of the breech in my "IronHide" LS......its cheap, easy, and now your Recon fires stefans! Back to the mod......
Install the OrangeModWorks parts.....catch+spring, Plunger spring, and back plate. Be sure your back plate is seated correctly, like so......
For posterity----OMW spring next to a RFSG spring....
Super sweet Overview and firing vid!
Cleaned up a few areas of the breech, re-lubed the L/R PT, and added an even larger pre-load spacer :twisted:
Overview and firing Demo:
3day or will 1day epox be ok?
meanwhile I just asked someone on facebook these same questions and he says reinforcement would only delay the destruction. What are your opinions on that?
Some nay-sayers will say it does nothing, or very little. I have had a VERY mildly modded Recon destroy the PT after less than 50 shots----and conversly had my completely overhauled Deploy with RFSG spring make it through two wars without an issue after performing the reinforcement. If you still doubt, you could always contact Louie for a unbreakable L/R PT. I tried to break one for testing purposes by using a RFSG spring AND preload spacer in my "Ratchet" Deploy.....it survived.
Credit given. On to business.......
I didnt take as many pics as usual, poor planning on my part. :shock: First thing I wanted to do was utilize two air bladders, since the piston-expansion uses a shit-ton of air. I had an extra bladder+casing sitting around, so I attached it above the existing bladder---using screws to hold it in place:
Both bladders were heavily banded, and obstructions inside the bladder casings were removed. Additionally, be sure to cut the protruding tips of the screws holding the casings together off, so the bladders are not damaged when they expand.....
I used a tee connector so that the pump fills both bladders. I also replaced the pump with a Titan pump--to fill the dual bladders with less pumps.You will need to cut the shell slightly, near the handle to accomadate the larger pump end. (sorry, missing pic.)
Construct the piston-expansion chamber. Two 1/2" pvc endcaps, about 1 3/4" length of 1/2" pvc, and one brass fitting will be needed......
Solvent-weld the pvc conponents together, glue the fitting in place. Be sure to drill the hole for the brass fitting with a bit that insures a nice tight fit. The hole in the piston will be at the top, right behind the clip-advancing arm.(sorry, no pic) Also, add a few bands to the piston, so aide its return.
You now have a few shell mods to perform. As you now have a expansion tank on top of your piston--you will need to make room for it as regards your shell. The expansion tank will obviously move with the piston, so be sure to make the cut in your shell match the pistons travel distance.....
Next up, the front of the shell. We need longer barrels to utilize the new found air flow---so cut the front of your shell to make room....
I chose 17/32 brass (expensive, for this mod--50" needed!) 17/32 slides into the clips with a single wrap of E-tape used to make things nice and snug.
I made my barrels 5" long. Cut your barrels, add E-tape, and superglue into your clip
Add a few strips of E-tape to the side of the clip, this keeps the clip from sliding back down. You dont want the clip to be too tight in the well---it may damage the clip-advancer. Test fit.
Finished, expensive ass clip.....
You can stop here if you like........
Though I decided to continue........
The above mods will greatly increase your range---but WILL slow your ROF and shots per pump, due to the massive air consumption. I decided to add a plan B.......I snagged the R.I.P I made a while back(http://www.nerfrevol....php?f=8&t=1269), and set about mounting it to the MS.
As was the case with Ratchet(my overhauled Deploy), I wanted the R.I.P to be easily removable. Removing two screws is all thats needed. To make this happen on the MS, simply secure two fasteners to the inside of the clip well. The fasteners have to be placed as shown so the dont interfere with the movement of the clip.....
Now, while re-pumping or swapping clips you have a 90' shooting defence.
If you place the fasteners as shown, your R.I.P will be located in a way that makes firing with the hand that holds the MS possible...WIN!
I will post a firing vid as soon as I get the part I needed from Kid Flash.
Yep, thats right fella's, Deploy scope barrels! The thinner wall allows these babies to sit nice and tight in the WH's sled. WIN! Cut two 4" sections of the Deploy tube, and glue into your sled.
Now because the WH was never meant to use barrels---just pegs, some sanding to the sled and barrels will be needed to ensure proper clearence inside the plunger assembly. This is sort of a feel thing. Sand a bit, and test fit inside the plunger assembly. The idea is for the sled and barrels to not rub on the inside of the plunger---which would cause friction and hurt ranges. Sand away!
While I had the Deploy tubes handy---I cut two ammo holders to fit into place in the WH's handle----which was designed to hold spare ammo anyway.
Lube up your plunger assembly and plungerheads. Fit your internals back into your shell. Again, take note of the position of the catch.. Also be aware of the tab on the under side of the plunger assembly---its what moves the spring, which means when you put your WH back together--the spring better be behind that tab or your blaster wont prime right.
Put your shell halfs back together---a bit tricky, as the WH's spring puts a bit of pressure on the plunger assembly--so you will need to hold the plunger assembly down as you slide the top half of the shell on. With the blaster put back together, I wanted a bit more power. I drilled two small holes up front, and two in the priming handle--to add two bungies.
Normally I am against this, but the WH has such a strange spring. I have yet to find a proper replacement--but the bungies are not all that unsightly, and they certainly do add some noticable power.
This blaster is compact, capable, and has mad swagger......all good shit.
Don't bother asking about ranges, havent measured any--but here is a crappy firing vid. Enjoy.
Crappy firing vid
Our stock blaster:
open her up---pretty easy, just be ready in case parts move when the shell comes apart.
Remove the internals--after taking carefull note of the position of the catch. The catch is the big white piece. Set your parts aside, as we are about to get to cutt'n em up!
Take your Sled---we need to cut those A/R pegs out of it.
Cut the A/R pegs right at the base of the PlungerHeads. After cutting them out, clean up any plastic that may be hanging on or sticking out. Make the base of those plungerheads flat.
Now, take a look at the air holes in the middle of the plungerheads.......tiny!....Lame!
Open those bitches up! I used a 7/32 drill bit for this. Now we are gonna move some air......through proper barrels. Go back to your sled. See that tab on the sled that the A/R pegs used to rest on? Lose it! We want our barrels to ride nice and tight to the sled.
DONT POST YET!
...I guess I'll be "that guy" today. Ranges?
LOL...taking one for the team, eh? Healthy NF ranges, like 70-75'. Although ranges are pretty much the same,--this things ROF easily trumps a NF. That, plus having more loaded clips at the ready makes this old ass blaster still war capable.
Haha. Yeah we like to take turns around here everyone takes his licks and we move on. Today was just my day.
Thats pretty wicked though although I'm kinda inclined to agree with Rover. I'm not the biggest fan of etape seals but hell if it works it works and you can't argue with that ROF its enough to really surprise someone especially with the way that thing looks no one would expect that.
The E-tape seal was in no way meant to be permanent. A replacement PT and Plungerhead are slated next for this thing. I will update when it is finished.