This was where we had most of our wars. Its a pretty good place, but it was too much of a commute for a few people. We tried relocating somewhere an hour south in MA (like Beverly or something), but that just never happened.

I don't know where you guys are exactly and how far your willing to commute, so give me feedback if that's too far for you guys.

Yeah, nerfing up here died a few years ago. We had really small monthly wars going for a little while, but that was like 5-10 people. Salem state college also used to hold a few indoor wars every year in the winter, but i haven't heard anything from sky or wes in awhile.

I'd love to see some local wars pop up again and I'd be happy to contribute. I know a few old nerfers that i could hit up on facebook that live nearby. Give me a location and I'll see what i can do.

My advise: grow some balls and fix the 5k tank, or put a 4B tank in there instead. There's no point for an oversized singled 2k.

I'm glad you posted this. I've always hated the trigger on my 1500, I find it's difficult to aim with such a hard trigger pull. I really wish the previous owner didn't cut the spring off.

One thing you left out is the Supermaxx cam mech (and at4k/supertech). I've always loved these mechanisms. They do make the trigger pull a bit awkward, but I find they make a incredible range difference. My SS Sm500 gets 110' easy compared to others with the pen mod. Although, I fear that this mechanism is the culprit for broken firing pins. The springs they use are very powerful and are stopped only by the firing pin. Stock 5k's are notorious for broken firing pins. However, every tank relocated 5k has never had this problem. In my 500, I added a stopper at the end to cushion the pin. I've run over 300 shots through it, and it still works perfect.

That's got to be the understatement of the year.

Okay, If it's not pumping, then either the pump is broken in some way, or there is a leak somewhere in the gun. Wildfires have fairly weak bladders, and they'll pop easilly.
I don't know how fragile the piston (what I believe you are referring to) is, but it's not possible that something like that would break under normal circumstances.

And all in all, it's only three bucks, so it's not like you killed a Stampede or a Longshot.

Rf20 and Wildfire pistons aren't that complicated, It's the kind of thing you need to actually see in person to understand.

Trust me, the bladder didn't burst. It actually takes a lot to pop them. However, the plastic piece that secures the bladder is VERY weak. Most wildfires break because of this. I'd be surprised if you had one intact. Don't worry, it's an easy fix. All you need is a hose clamp. The only other possible problem would be the the trigger or the check valve in the pump, but I doubt that.

Rf20's have been known to have faulty pistons on occasion, but I've never seen one on a wildfire. Usually it's just a problem straight out of the box. I can't really tell by your description whether or not there's an issue. If it really moves "loosely", then you may have a crack in the shell.

You won't really know before you open it up, from there you should be able to figure it out yourself.

Wes and I have been trying to schedule a war for a few months now, but we've all been very busy.

Yarmouth is far too north for many of New England nerfers to travel. I suggest we hold this at the usual place, or maybe even a local place near me.

As far as dates go, I can't really do much in the next two weeks due to my dad recovering from his recent trip to the hospital. I might be able to do something during labor day weekend.

I'll hit up some of the usual's and see what works for them

A few months ago I was toying around with an idea similar to this. I have no real experience with breadboards and shit like that, so I started out with a basic $2 pedometer. Unfortunately I still haven't picked up a stampede yet, so I had to do this to my age old Ls. I hooked up the counter directly to the catch, and the reset to the mag release. I liked the fact that it counted up, it made it more practical given all the different types of clips and drums, nevermind whatever's on the drawing board over at hasbro.

As cool as it was, it's purpose was pretty useless. Obviously this would be different for a stampede, or future clip fed full auto blasters.

If you really want to invest your time and money, and program yourself a pulse rife, that's your choice; If your really lazy you can just cut a window in your magwell. But a pedometer or a calculator is more than enough to get the job easily done.

I like taggers the most. They bounce off walls and shit.

Issues resolved: Hornet sliding valves have more inputs than are needed for one tank, and sliding the O-rings past any of the extras will vent your reservoir. Those extra inputs are also waiting to chew up your o-rings.
Benefits: O-rings only traverse one hole. Extra brass on the venting end will turn your valve into a piston that will push back on a trigger (as discovered by Boot), or maybe open a bolt sled (a hint at what I've been working on). It looks simpler and cleaner, and unless something breaks, a seal fails, or you push your piston through the cross section, you can't vent your reservoir.

I hate to say this, but I'm going to have to protest this.

In your current setup, your fighting against the pressure of the reserve tank. In cheesy's mod, he had o rings on both sides of the reservoir's input. This is the same basic concept zero invented. This eliminates all the pressure against the trigger. Although you say it's manageable, it can be a hell of a lot better.

The extra inputs on a hornet valve don't hurt the o rings in any way. In fact, the sharp thin edge of the brass is more likely to damage your o rings then the hornet. This doesn't vent your reservoir either, which is why there are two o rings instead of just one.

If you really want a "semi-auto valve", I'd suggest just using a hornet trigger valve. If you are unable to get your hands on one, then I suggest atomatron's valve. Using cpvc is a hell of a lot easier then dremeling and soldering brass. But thats just my 2 cents.

Wow, I sorta forgot about the post button in this thread.




5k + 4k + 1500 pump = SUPERTECH OVER 9000

The cam works, and the pump is unplugged and held on with hose clamps.


This is my other 4k. 3K tank on the left, 4k tank on the right. And yes, that's a fucking 1/2" dump valve. I may post a revision to Ryan's 4k overhaul, but don't count on that.


Sm5k + SS Sm5k + Sm2k + Hopper = Colorful, yet effective 5k.

oh look, a matching SS Sm500?



Sneakshots are awesome, but only awesome if it utilizes the original bolt.

This one is especially awesome because it has a 4 shot inline clip.


Semi auto Sm1k. Neat huh? Wanna see an internals pic?


Yes, those are the internals. Wanna know what I did to it?

I cut down the cam spring. The trick is to cut it down just enough so that it opens the tank, but the air is enough to force it valve closed. Wanna know how long the cam spring should be?


That long. If anyone wants a thread about this, feel free drop me a PM.


Uh oh, is that a SS2 tank with a new dump vale?

I'm also going to solvent weld a coupler over this, so don't warn me that the epoxy isn't strong enough.

I've been using this concept for the past three months.

Not only does it work with lower volume blasters, but you can also fire streamlines from high volume blasters.

I don't feel like bumping the DIY hopper thread, so I'll just post here.

So I figured out that you can save $.31 by drilling a 9/16" hole through a 1/2' ball valve.





It's air tight, and the the darts slide through with no problem. Occasionally a dart gets stuck, but falls through with a shake, or the next dart pushes it through.

This also makes the hopper considerably lighter. Which solves the problem of having your clip flip upside down when your running.

I would love to attend, however, my primary broke recently, so I might look into buying a new one...

I can always lend you something if need be.

Well, I am looking just to cut off useless crap like a longshot bipod, or cut the front off of a vulcan.

You do realize that you can simply unscrew the front of the vulcan off right?

Ok, so five people it is.

But it doesn't really matter; because in the end, you will all fall to my riot shield.

So we have two days to go. I thought I'd give this a bump and get an updated list going of the attendees.

Definite:
-Wes +1?
-Myself (Jubs)
-Titanium
-booky
-pops

Definitely not going:
-Jaybo
-Beefy

Whom I haven't herd from yet:
-Jack
-SBS

But from what I recall, people on #nerfchat complaining how they buy something from you and it breaks in three different spots, and you not willing to fix the problem. I've heard that from at least three guns I can remember.

And I don't think I ever told anyone to use PVC sheet for anything. Sure I use it on barrel spacers, but they're barrel spacers.

Yes it did break. However, Split has offered multiple times to fix it for me. He has made multiple replacement parts, and has shipped them to me the next day. All free of charge. Apart from that, it has performed flawlessly at all the wars I brought it to. I have no regrets buying it.

Again, I must have confused you with someone else.

When?- July 17, 2010

Aw man, I just ordered darts.

Anyways, I'll be there.

That's one ugly mav.

I'll be there.

The weather channel says theres supposed to be light rain tomorrow. Re-scheduling will be tough for me.

I will be there. Possibly with a friend or two.

His guns, no. My furyfire, yes. Thankfully i reminded him that it was mine. He just went around taking guns and using them, like he was testing them for a company or something.

I'm pretty sure he stole a maverick or two from sky. He tried to steal my raider, but only made out with the three clips I had with it. He also broke my xbow too, after I told him he couldn't use it. Can't wait to meet his fat ass at the next war.

Anyways, the war was great. My friend and I had a lot of fun, and plan to at the next war.

I'll be there. I might be a little late.

http://nerfhaven.com...topic=16792&hl=

May as well add to the madness. Not much of a directory, but close enough.
I don't think this is worthy of being sticked, but I may be wrong.

ABS cement. PVC cement will work too, but ABS is more powerful.

Instead of just sitting on top of the two pieces like most glues, cement will melt them together. It all depends on how there broken.

Wow, you guys are all losers! (just kidding, I almost didn't make it, too). I'm a go. No Shelby, though. Just me and Clay.

I hate to continue the streak, but I'm sick at the moment, and I doubt I'll make it.

I will be there come April. This is a definite.

I'll be there. Probably with a friend or two.

Bob's right.

And Mr. Yetti, your defective.

Might as well throw this out.

Streamlines are a very loose fit in 9/16th. Especially once they have worn down after a few shoots. You're going to need to put tightening rings on the barrel, or even a small (around 2") segment of 17/32" in the back. You should get much better ranges.

oh, and on that last pic- it would help if you had a clip in.

It was supposed to be loose because I still have the dart tooth in. I still might try the 17/32 though just for shits and giggles.

...Yeah, I know I forgot the clip. It was intended to be a joke...You do know who Mr. Bill is, right?

oh... Seriously, just Angel breech it, or do this. The dart tooth serves no help with a segment of 9/16th. I'm surprised your even getting 50's with your current setup. And forget what I previously said, I didn't realize you still had the dart tooth in.

Go here for more help with your LS.

And yes, I know who Mr. Bill is.

-12" (ish) section of 1/2" thinwall PETG from visipak. I used the thinwall, which is very loose on streamlines. This is a plus since the seal between the breech and the barrel isn't perfect, but it still adds exponential range over the stock ls barrel.

The mod you recommended is nearly the exact same thing that I did, except it doesn't telescope. I'm sorry if I come off as rude here, but do you even know what the fuck you're talking about? The PETG in his mod is very loose on streamlines, just like my 9/16''. I don't want an angel breech for this ls because I can't make stefans for shit, it's less durable than the stock breech, and it's almost 30 dollars in brass. Not to mention the $75 dollars or sheer time to have/make a modded drum mag.

My longshot shot the same if not less distance even without my barrel, so don't go assuming that my barrel setup is retarding the dart. The only thing that I wanted from my barrel was to make my darts more accurate, because really, just when in the hell are you going to shoot someone over 75+ feet away with a longshot?

Sorry if that seemed offensive, I didn't intend it to be.

Telescoping does nothing, you do know that right? Only the 9/16th is improving the accuracy.

Angel Breeches aren't just for stefans, they can work with cut down streamlines also. And, modded raider drums arn't that hard to make, you just need the necesary materials and time. Nor are superclips, which hold ~12-13 darts. I can make a angel breech in under a few hours, and it would cost me ~$10 for all the brass. And it is durable. I've had one for close to a year with only a few minor wears n' tears. And I treat my guns like shit during wars.

Who said you had to use Petg? whats wrong with brass?

Btw, the stock barrel overlaped the Petg to create a nice seal. Not perfect, but still much better than yours.

I ment to post thiswriteup instead btw. Though theres nothing wrong with bpso's mod. just use brass instead of aluminum.

Edit: I'm sorry if I've come across.. cross. I didn't mean to "get on his back". I simply was annoyed and let the worst of me, get to me. I've just had a long day today, and I'm just in a bad mood. Sorry.

If I'm wrong correct me. Don't bitch to me. And theres no need to repeat one's point nerfman.

If we can work out car pooling, I'd be much more likely to come. I still have yet to discuss this with my parents. I'm from Hamilton, MA. Those who are near me can either PM me or we can further discuss this in this thread. I don't have my license yet, so I'm going to need someone else to drive.

Streamlines are a very loose fit in 9/16th. Especially once they have worn down after a few shoots. You're going to need to put tightening rings on the barrel, or even a small (around 2") segment of 17/32" in the back. You should get much better ranges.

oh, and on that last pic- it would help if you had a clip in.

It was supposed to be loose because I still have the dart tooth in. I still might try the 17/32 though just for shits and giggles.

...Yeah, I know I forgot the clip. It was intended to be a joke...You do know who Mr. Bill is, right?

oh... Seriously, just Angel breech it, or do this. The dart tooth serves no help with a segment of 9/16th. I'm surprised your even getting 50's with your current setup. And forget what I previously said, I didn't realize you still had the dart tooth in.

Go here for more help with your LS.

And yes, I know who Mr. Bill is.

Streamlines are a very loose fit in 9/16th. Especially once they have worn down after a few shoots. You're going to need to put tightening rings on the barrel, or even a small (around 2") segment of 17/32" in the back. You should get much better ranges.

oh, and on that last pic- it would help if you had a clip in.

I just might be able to make it. Put me down as a maybe.

I'm from MA. Where about are you from?

I need a tank comparison. They look small, but they also have some depth to them.

Do you think the tanks are separable from one another?

Where'd you get this from? I want it....

Click

I could only find the twin pack.

Wow, great job. Love the paintjob.

However, jerm did this on his blog about a month ago.

One problem I've experinced with flexable tubing (I.e. Pex pvc) is that it will start to deform after one or two bends. Does this happen to hep20?