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There have been 251 items by Glint (Search limited from 19-January 93)
It seems like there's going to be a lot of electrical crap in there, maybe making things a bit crowded. But nonetheless, I'll defiantly be picking this up.
Tweaked the barrel a bit, made a better plunger seal. The seal's really great, the stock spring can't push the plunger to hit the end of the plunger tube without the bungee. It needs a new spring.
Beauty of a paintjob thanks to Merzlin.
From what I've heard it's the slightest bit tight, but it preforms excellently. I saw a raider that had one last weekend and it gave the baster more than enough range to be deadly even outdoors. I had to put my gun in the air more than once because of that thing.
I believe he was using streamlines with a bb in the tip, and they didn't seem to be swerving or fishtailing at all even without hot glue stabilizing the bb. although in retrospect I'm not sure how safe that is considering how easily the bb could come out if someone were to pick the dart up and fire it out of a more powerful gun.
That's correct. THe RFDG spring is almost exactly the same OD as the Raider/Recon spring, maybe a hair larger. Works wonders.
As I said before, weighting streamlines with a BB in the tip generally causes the dart to, yes, improve accuracy but decreases ranges. Now I don't know if my version decreases ranges at all, but I think that the hot glue dome weighs less than a single BB.
Nice idea, Glint, but you could just make 2.5 inch stefans to use with it instead...
That is what I did. I don't need to go out and buy more streamlines now, or spend time making CTDs. I weighted these stefans with a single BB.
They outshoot some darts I made with your writeup here.
This is not meant to say "Hahaha, you suck, stupid". I just wanted to let you know that it is easier, cheaper, and gets you more range if you just make longer stefans.
What ranges are you getting out of your raider BTW? I heard the RFDG spring adds a good amount of range. I don't have one yet, but it will be going in my raider the second I get it.
I might just give that a shot. Clip-exclusive stefans.... good thought.
And I completely understand your direction. Thanks for the tip.
As for ranges, I haven't officially tested ranges yet. I didn't want to test with streamlines because of the masssive flux in ranges. I can definately say that the RFDG spring give it much more of a kick.
But I plan on bringing my Raider too (Glint has competetion)
But I think my current streamline count is 40, So I'll be looking to buy more at the war. I know people have streamlines sitting around that they probably never use, so I'd like to purchase some. I don't really know a fair price, I was thinking like 5 - 10 cents per dart...
Still in the planning stages, but after taking apart the mag and examining it, I think it can be done. It's going to require quite a bit of work, but I'm pretty sure its possible because of where the coil that winds the drum is located.
Now it's up to someone to stefan mod the Raider clip...
The big thing I thought would be tough is that where each dart sits only actually cradles the dart at the front and back of the dart, and in the middle there's nothing. So any dart smaller than a stock dart could just fall inbetween those two places that are supposed to hold the darts in place.
Or at least that's how it looks just looking in an empty clip. I haven't actually opened it up for myself.
I had gone through two different versions of this before settling on this one, both of which combined create this final product.
This streamline mod increases the weight of the front of the dart enough so they fly more accurately without reducing (and might even help) ranges. It gets rid of the hole in the head of the dart which caused fishtailing and gave the dart a mind of it's own in the air, and (with some skill) keeps the heads of the dart almost a perfect dome. Of course they can still be used with LS, Recon and Raider clips.
Take your streamline and cut through the head about midway through the hole in the head (I tried bigger and smaller but halfway through that hole seemed the best).
You should now see the base of the head, as well as still have some walls around the edges (very important).
Now create a hot glue down inside the walls as you would with a stefan. Keep adding glue until it's filled up to the walls and also creates a bit of a dome above. Place the dart in an upright position (such as a Magstrike clip) and allow the hot glue to dry, allowing the walls and gravity to settle the hot glue into a dome.
And there you have it. A close-to-perfect dome which adds needed weight to the front of the dart.
I decided not to add a BB or fishing weight as most "CDTD's" have, as when people just shoved a BB into the head of a streamline it seemed to decrease ranges. I think the weight the hot glue itself adds is sufficient.
My first attempts at this, I completely trimmed down the walls so it was just the base of the streamline. After that I added a dome of hotglue on the base. This keeps the weight of the hot glue, but also keeps the dart more aerodynamic.
I hope this helps some people out with some streamline problems.
Now it's up to someone to stefan mod the Raider clip...
RFDG spring replacement, AR removal and a DiscShot spring in the stock. Oh, and some padding on the end of the plunger rod and where the plunger tube hits the bolt sled.
Plus a comfortable shoulder strap held on with bolts and washers:
I'm aslo glad to see you found another way to extend the plunger draw other than struck by stefans'. Looks much cleaner and feels as if it'll last for longer.
Glint, I appreciate you trying to help, but assumptions are no good for anyone. The only ''rough'' spacer I made was the first one. I made one for Lt. Stefan, and I made a wooden one for myself, and they were both measured out and made very well. Nothing rough about them.
Ah, pardon me. I was only aware of the rough one you made. I wasn't doubting your ability to make them, I just didn't know you had made multiple measured-out and well-made ones.
I'm pretty sure it was oodalumps with his RF20.
I'd definately like both of those... How about a rf20? Just if you have time... I know someone made them once but can't find it.
SGM made Doomsayer spacers, but if I remember correctly he just roughly sketched some out and whipped them up. No perfection, but at least they worked well.
On the top ones you shuld add a top grip like on the Vulcan, because from the front you'd just look absolutely badass taking a hip shot holding it like that.
But anyways, that's really cool. Great innovation to revive your +Bow.
But anyways, have fun with them. I know youth group nerf wars are/would be awesome.
And the best part? It's just a shell right now.
Or that could be the worst part... But at least it's still modular. See?:
Did I mention that I currently haven't used a drop of any sort of adhesive on it?
Also, that's the date for SCANO 2, so that might not work for some people.
I also can't make it on the 22nd. I'm gone the 16th - the 22nd. The 29th doesn't work for me either...
Why can't we have it on a weekday? It's summer, after all...
Although I suppose some people might have work and such...
First off is an RSCB'd RFDG.
Next is the Frankenfinder Mk. II, which made it's debut earlier in the thread. New and improved, it's back for more glam.
Now you're probably asking yourself, "Glint, you charismatic stallion, what's the screw in the top of the Frankenfinder for?"
I'll do my best to make it to the next Ontario / Toronto-area war.
I'm sure I wasn't missed though; sounds like a regular badass Canadian war. I mean, HeadHunters? Wow. Definately would've been right in on that.
Oh pchaw. I just follow write-ups.
(Glint is an awesome modder).
And it's my understanding the "Crooksbow" hardshot used broke at the end of the day. Not a good thing. It can't be primed without a lot of difficulty without that handle.
Just throwing something out here; I'd be a bit worried about the coat hanger wire. In my experience they can be a bit flimsy. Not breaking, but bending under pressure, thus caushing them to be un-usable. More-so at longer lengths.
A better substitute I've found has been brass bars. Not the flat kind used for the reinforcement, but actual, tubes/cylinders. I've found them at my local Home Depot. THey come in about the same size as coat hanger wires (tags claim 1/2 diameter... 1/2 of what I'll never know) and also one bigger, but also much stronger (3/4)
Of course, seeing all the putty you put on that I'd expect it's not really that replaceable. Oh well; if it works then it works.
And it seems to be working fine. Again, great work.
I think it was you that posted the AR removal Switchshot Mod (forgive me if I'm wrong, but the question remains the same), and you didn't fully drill through the barrel where the AR previously was, you left the small hole.
Did you ever fully drill through that hole or did you leave it as-is? Because I recall that I told the person who did that write-up to fully drill through. I never actually compared ranges from just the hole to fully drilled out, so I don't know if it improved the ranges or hurt them. 50 feet with the stock spring is impressive.
So are is your AR removal fully drilled out, or did you leave the small hole?
Hooooly crap I'm retarded. I didn't fully score your actual modification process to the guns, simply the attachment process. Sorry for taking up space.
I have a small problem though. The washer head replacement wasn't working at all for me, so I went out and found a new O-Ring for it. It seemed to be perfect.
It's called a "1'' Universal O-Ring". It was a bit smaller than the stock LS o-ring, so it took a tiny bit of stretching to get on the plunger head. It's about 2 times (maybe a bit less) thick though, so it made an amazing seal.
Now I have two problems which I think are connected. One is that when I try lubricating the plunger tube and then inserting the plunger rod and check to plunger tube again, it seems as if there isn't any lube any more. It looks to me as if it all got forced down to the bottom of the plunger tube.
Second is that once the gun is together (also when I try and pull the plunger rod out of the plunger tube) it's almost impossible to pull back. It's not the springs, it's a LS spring with a cut down AR-15 spring (Hereticorp's way). It seems like the O-Ring is either causing a lot of friction on the plunger tube because of the lack of a lot of lube, or it's creating too good of a seal.
I don't understand why though. When I just insert the plunger rod I can move it easily in and out. But once I screw it in and it's been in there for a while and I try and remove it (without the screws), it takes a crapload of force, me pushing on the breech opening slot side to remove the plunger rod.
How can I fix this? It seems like my O-Ring's fine when I'm just testing it out, but once it's all together it's a pain in the butt, practically un-usable. I have to prime the Bolt with the stock pushed against my chest and pull really hard.