I'm sorry, but this is one of the worst Nerf ideas I've ever heard. There's a reason mass production was invented. In this case, it's so you can pummel your opponent with a barrage of foam. While you're sitting in your bush, swearing your head off while you try in vain to reel in a nerf dart tangled in some sort of obstruction, somebody's gonna snead up behind you and nail you in the back of the head with a wildfire. Honestly; if you can't make stefans, refill dart packs aren't that expensive. Go buy some, and be an actual competitor in your next nerf war, instead of cannon fodder.

How about some pics?

And if I'm thinking about the piece you're talking about, maybe you could take one off another busted wildfire, rf20, or PC...Basically anything with an air bladder attached in a similar way.

I just had my first nerf war today; it was outdoor.

I used my Wildfire (without air restrictors) as my primary,
and
My Secret Shot 1, crayola barrelled and banded.

VERY nubish and not too effective, but It worked as all of my friends are even nubier than me.

And Oompa, what happened to the near? That thread sort of disappeared, and I was REALLY looking foreward to seeing the finished product...

Cool....How does it work? What're the ranges?

All that hardware looks pretty heavy... Otherwise, this thing looks sweet.

Of course I could always take the rubber bands "OFF". But if I did, I'd be left with a stock wildfire, a name synonymous with POS. I know people have successfully done this mod and gotten the results I want; increased ROF with increased range. I'm not really sure where you're getting that this mod decreases power....It forces the air out faster, with more power behind it. If somebody who knows what they're doing could help me, that'd be great.

Three posts 5 hours, and a hundred bajillion reassembalies later, I feel like an idiot. Tip to newbs(like me): Make sure all the internals are correctly in place before you close your gun up. The entire piston assembly was just flying loose around the inside of my gun because i failed to put it exactly back in place. I got it working, and yes, it DID increase ROF and range (though only by a couple of feet. It's good if you can reload fast, or have a clip mod for this gun...(I'm gonna try that next. Don't worry, if I screw up, I'll keep it to myself.)

What I did:

I read that if you put a the inner tube of a bike tire around the air bladder of a pc/wildfire/rf20, or if you wrap it in rubber bands, you'll get a better ROF and slightly increased range. I wrapped the bladder of my wildfire in rubber bands.

What it's doing:

I have a tremendously increased ROF...kinda. The bolt is flying back and forth, but it seems to shoot one or two darts for every twenty times the bolt shoots foreward, and the range is just as poohpy as if it were stock. On top of that, the turret rotates just as often as it shoots. Also, after I prime then shoot, prime shoot, the third or fourth time i prime it then hold the trigger, the air just hisses out of the thing; the bolt doesn't move at all.

WTF is going on and how do I fix it. Thanks for any feedback.

I just had an idea. (As you can see by the frequency of my posts today, I'm trying as hard as I can to NOT write my 30-page bio paper due monday...*Sigh*

In previous posts on this thread, people have been talking about mass producing darts, and how hard it is to get a consistency [sp]. What if you cut your FBR or whatever the heck you use, and instead of ball weights - sinkers, bb's - you used those metal thumbtacks? You know, the ones with the broad, slightly domed top? You could just stick into the tip of the FBR and voila! Maybe even dipping the spike of the tack in glue would help them stay in. If you glued them like that, they'd probably stay in and not poke anything. Has anybody tried this? Is this a bad idea?

There's a lot of talk about converting stock darts into stefans. But I always thought the reason for making stefans is because it's cheaper than buying stock darts. It seemed that the fact that they out perform stocks is just a surprising bonus. I know that everybody's going to do what they want to do, but i just want to say that converting stocks to stefans is just a waste of money, when you can make perfectly good stefans from scratch and a LOT less money.

As for me, I use good old fashioned FBR and hotglue. I cut my stefans to 1" (But I was just playing around with 2" darts, and the well-made ones outperformed the 1". I think I'm about to change methods) and I use my plastic beads as weight. They're really light, so they're more easily affected by wind, but in my crayola-ed secret shot I, they get 20 feet more of range than darts with splitshot.

Whoa, another noob, I didn't know you'd just made the same point. Didn't see your post Sorry about that...But whatever, It's still nice to have someone backing you up...So, yeah. I second that.

Wow, this puts my BnA shotgun mod do shame. This thing looks great.
Here's the only thing I can see being a problem:

The stefan actually manages to bend into place

Granted, I'm new to nerfing, but it seems to me that if you're always bending stefans like that, they might wear out quickly/get permanently bent. Maybe using shorter stefans (yours look to be around 2"), say 1 inchers, would eliminate the bend. I'm thinking they'd just sort of fall into the chamber with the brass. Using shorter ammo would also allow you to fit more shots into one clip - you've got a line of five darts in one of your pics, and they seem to fill the clip.

Buy any way you cut it, this is going to be one sick gun. Nice work.

Have you been able to fire it yet? I'd like to see some ranges.

Thanks for clearing that up. 5 more pumps doesn't sound too bad, and if it increases ROF and range, i'll probably have to do that to my wildfire.

Hey, Sistermol. I've got a couple of questions for you:

1. By [QUOTE]short ones with weights hot glued in the body
I assume you mean that these darts have weights inside the dart, maybe half way down the length of it. So instead of weight in the tip, it's more weight in the middle. Is that correct?

2. If it is, then I'm going to guess that you have holes in these darts like stock darts do. Is this the case?

3. Granted, I'm somewhat of a newb here at the Haven, but i've been reading the forums long enough to have come across some discrepancies [sp?] as to just what exactly a mega stefan is. Some people consider a mega stefan to be basically a stoc micro; 2" long, .5" (approx) diameter. But you said you were using "shorter ones" and that they were "mega stefans". By megas, do you mean you're using FBR with the same diameter as stock Mega darts? And just exactly how long is short?

If you could clear up these details, it'd make your post much more helpful to newbies such as myself.

Thanks
~skiermon

Timeberwolf, nice repair.

The_trouble:
If you put the inner tube around the bladder would give you more power, but wouldn't you need to pump it alot more? Have you - or has anybody - ever done that mod to any of your guns? Not that I don't believe it'd work, i'm just curious as to how much your range is improved. I've got a wildfire, too, and i'm trying to figure out how to maximize it's range.

While we're on the topic of SSII's, I'd like to throw this in:

I took mine apart the other day because it had a leak (I get no pressure when i pump, and as i pump i can hear a hissing noise) and i wanted to try to fix it. But when i opened it up, instead of seeing the bladder i was expecting -- like the one in my wildfire -- there was this plastic capsule that the plunger tube fed into, and it seemed to be sealed pretty tight, so i didn't want to pry it apart and see what's inside.

Has this ever happened to anybody, and if so, do you know how to fix it?

Oh yeah, sweet mod -- if i can fix this piece, i'm definitely going to do that.

Thanks.

Hey everybody. I joined Nerfhaven probably a month ago, but this is my first post. I've mostly just been reading...didn't want to contribute anything that nobody needed.

So yeah, I modded my Bow N Arrow....sort of pathetic, but it's easy, and I haven't seen this mod anywhere before. Also, I'm making my own arrows/missiles...more like missiles -- they're thinker than the arrows.

First, i'll talk about the mod to the gun itself. I'm gonna call it the shotgun mod, cause that's basically what it is. I took a PVC reducer couplink, 2.5 to 3 inches, i think, combined it with crayolas, foam piping insulation, maybe a foot of poly-foam caulk saver/fbr/whatever the hell you call it, and gallons of hot glue to make a removable shotgun attachment. Here's the process:

I sort of winged this thing; it's pretty intuitive, and these rough directions should be enough to get you going. No pics yet, but if you guys are interested, bug me and i might get some up.

First, i cut about four inches of foam insulation (.5") and stuck it into the narrower end of the PVC reducer. It didn't fill the gap completely, so i glued a ring of FBR around one end of the insulation to add to the diameter. Now, you can slide the insulation in and the FBR ring will keep a good seal. Hot glue it all together and make sure there aren't any gaps (except for the hole in the end -- KEEP THAT OPEN) and you should get a pretty good seal.

I used four crayola barrels. There's definitely room for more, but as this is my first try at this mod, i wanted to keep things simple. In order to get the "array" of barrels sealed, i used a piece of FBR as a center post and glued the four barrels onto it, 90 degrees apart from each other. I wanted the barrels to be centered in the wide part of the PVC reducer, so from here it was just a matter of building up a seal of pieces of FBR rings and one inch pieces. And lots of hot glue. Maybe 3 sticks.

As for barrels, you really don't need to use crayolas; i'm sure PCV, or brass would work just fine. I just happened to have crayolas on hand (and they were free). I actually made the mistake of using different brand marker tubes, so they had slightly differing diameters. Now, only two of my barrels will fire, cause the other two are tighter around the darts. My fault; if you standardize the barrel diameter, you shouldn't have this problem.

Once all this is done, and you're confident there aren't any leaks, you can put it on your gun. Just slide the narrower end over that yellow stick. I find that it works best if you don't slide the stick too far in, and if you cut the end off the stick so instead of two tiny holes in the side, you've got one big one in the end.

Pros: It's a shotgun. A friggin' nerf shotgun. Also, if you make more than one attachment, they slide on and off in less than a second, so you can preload a few of them and use 'em like clips. So it's nerf. It's a shotgun. With clips. Sweet.

Cons: Shitty range (15-20 feet). Yeah, i guess the more barrels you use, the less pressure you get per barrel -- makes sense, right? But I haven't done the super-charge mod on it yet. Home Depot (where i bought everything for this mod, except for the markers and glue) has some latex tubing, sort of like tourniquettes, but it's 15 bucks for 10 feet, and i only need maybe 3. But once i get that mod done, it should give more power.

This isn't a very detailed description of the mod...just some general guidelines. It's really easy, and if anybody develops a better way of doing this, by all means let me know. What happens with different barrel materials? How can I get a better seal?


ARROWS:
Remember that pipe insulation i was talking about? It comes in bundels; four 3 foot long tubes. I'm just cutting them down to size, stuffing the hole in one end with FBR, sealing it with glue, and making fins out of cardboard of some other flat stuff. I'd recommend going with 3/4" tubing tho, this .5" is quite a tight fit, and doesn't work if i slide it all the way down.

I haven't seen any new Bow N Arrow mods like my shotty mod, and only one person over at NERF HQ is making these arrows, but i think they're for that Unity Power System. I hope I've given you guys a reason to go dig up your old Bow N Arrow and tinker around. Please do, and let me know what you come up with.