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#355745 ESLT 1.6 Instructions

Posted by Ryan201821 on 23 August 2016 - 09:15 PM in Homemades

Hey since this is kinda relevant, while your at it can you reupload or fix your ESLT nonprinted template files?
The ones down here

Also would a new redirect piece be purchasable? What are those large pins on the reciever? Is that wye at a 35 degree? 
Love the new stock by the way, looks dope

 

I'm planning on releasing a newer non-3d-printed version. I haven't searched all of my PC's for these files, but I really don't want to, so I'll just re-do it. It's heavily outdated anyway.

 

I will definitely make the new re-direct piece purchasable in the future, but I'm putting my time into a lot of other projects right now, so this probably won't happen for a couple months. However, I'll be publishing the files for it much sooner, so you could get someone else to print it for you as well. There will also probably be upgrade kits available sometime in the future to bring whatever version you own up to the latest and greatest.

 

The large pins are thumb screws, which I stole from Zorn since he left them in the Cancer shack. This enables the blaster to possess the ability to be disassembled to the point where you can fit it in a small travel bag without having to use any tools. This was Zorn's idea and I have to say I like it. 

 

The wye is actually 45 degrees. I'll be posting a separate thread on my 3d printed wye experimentation with all kinds of sweet juicy wizard action.




#355578 ESLT 1.6 Instructions

Posted by Ryan201821 on 17 August 2016 - 06:23 AM in Homemades

I am a certified scrollbar wizard, so it's pretty easy for me, but I understand there are better tools for the job. As for previously mentioned tools, I do not have any of those, besides the hacksaw, and I can make much better cuts with the former. I was spoiled with the mill and I miss how quick and pretty it made slots. I eventually plan on building/buying a mill so I can semi-autonomously pump out slots. This probably won't happen for a while though.

Mark -

Basically what slug said is exactly what I would've said, and really the cornstarch is just for feeding darts and has nothing to do with the blaster itself. In fact, Zorn/Ice9 have discovered by putting a strip of Teflon inside the eye, this eliminates the need for cornstarch.

As for artifacts' performance I have had zero luck. They all shoot like wounded streamlines but you do occasionally get some laser beams once and a while. Other people have also noted this, which seems like it's entirely independent of what blaster you're using....

But anyway, this is a thread about ESLTs. I plan on sharing my dart/wye experimentation in a separate thread.



#355577 Artifact darts

Posted by Ryan201821 on 17 August 2016 - 06:12 AM in Darts and Barrels

Quick update:

I guess my bitching was effective. I received a full refund last night, which BuyChina said this:

"We have checked ,it was bought correctly .For the colors ,if no special requirement ,then it will be sent randomly . And I noticed you are our new customer,we'd like to provide good service for you in future.Thanks."

I'm not sure they understood why I'm upset with the darts, which I could careless what color they were. Oh well, at least I have my money back to get some more men darts.



#355560 ESLT 1.6 Instructions

Posted by Ryan201821 on 16 August 2016 - 08:01 AM in Homemades

I plan on releasing a full new write-up for a newer version ESLT, but here are some of the changes. I've been very active the last few months, but I just haven't been sharing it with anyone outside of people who frequent the cancer shack.

 

I apologize for the crappy smartphone pictures:

 

New style re-direct piece

IMG_20160731_241649634%20(1).jpg

 

Seals much better than previous versions. Also eliminates the need for CPVC stubs and elbows, another place where air could leak. More details to follow later...

 

The slots are also open in the front now, which makes assembly much easier. I have to say though, cutting through slots is a bit more difficult. Especially since I have to cut these on the scrollsaw now as opposed to Kane's mill which I was using when he still lived here. I've also added some thumb screws which Zorn had laying around from dicking around with his ESLT. He can provide the part numbers here if he feels like it..

 

I've been working a ton on 3D printed wyes, men darts, and artifacts recently, which I'll post my experiences later as well. Other small changes include a front barrel spacer with a channel to secure a zip tie (no one likes duct tape) (If you don't think a front barrel spacer is necessary you're an idiot), and a revised stock design (which is actually old). 

 

Otherwise, expect a new write-up soon, and a new batch of blasters.

 

IMG_20160731_241629878%20(1).jpg




#355551 Artifact darts

Posted by Ryan201821 on 15 August 2016 - 08:34 PM in Darts and Barrels

**DANGER**

 

I ordered 2000 of these through the same link Kane and Zorn used.. I chose BuyChina.com as my Taobao agent, and I'm very disappointed. The price was definitely excellent, and it was very easy to order, but they shipped me something completely different than what I thought I purchased:

 

IMG_20160815_202623344.jpg

 

These would probably be better than the Artifacts that the above mentioned received, but they are straight up ROCK MODE. These are basically hot glue domes.

 

I've tried contacting my BuyChina agents but they haven't responded so I've filed a dispute on PayPal as of a few minutes ago. I guess I'll see what happens and keep people updated.




#355550 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 15 August 2016 - 08:15 PM in Homemades

IMG_20160814_230445900.jpg




#355527 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Ryan201821 on 13 August 2016 - 11:24 PM in Modifications

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#355174 SPANO 2016

Posted by Ryan201821 on 24 July 2016 - 10:27 AM in Nerf Wars

Recap

+Sweet juices
-No nerfing



#355134 SPANO 2016

Posted by Ryan201821 on 21 July 2016 - 06:54 PM in Nerf Wars

Looks like my darts won't make it there in so we'll only have a thousand of those Zorn mentioned. It turns out China is far away.



#354210 Armageddon XVII: SoCal's Largest NIC War (2016)

Posted by Ryan201821 on 14 June 2016 - 10:34 PM in Nerf Wars

Great war. It's been 7 years since I've been to a 'Geddon. It was cool seeing a bunch of people I haven't seen in years, and also meeting a bunch of new people I've never met. The war location is excellent for a war this size. I especially admire the perfect symmetry allowing different games to be set up easily and accurately with little effort. Thanks to Zeke for putting up with everyone's bullshit for the weekend, and the time and cost that goes into hosting a nerf war, especially one this size. 

 

Things I liked:

  • Death clicker gametype is a perfect mashup of Deathmatch and Meat-Grinder. I need to get some mechanical counters.
  • U3 trains
  • Other general trains that were rollin'
  • Rock Mode, of couse.
  • I took a nice cold one.
  • Double ESLT is super effective, still...The blowgun is the perfect attachment for shooting little kids, or rushing fools while making poop sounds.
  • Little kids who were smarter than a lot of the older people.
  • Lots of ideas for potential future projects to revolutionize nerf once again.
  • Weather 

Things that could've been better:

  • Staging area was too close to field of play. Maybe we should just tell people expect to be shot at all times, within the gated area. (i.e. wear safety glasses)
  • Decent cover, but a couple smaller mobstacles in the more open areas would've made it perfect.
  • Not having to fly on a plane to get there.

Things that need to change:

 

  • FVJ darts, and other not-even-close-to-soft domes = not nerf. These things are straight rocks, yo. I saw some pretty nasty damage to some people from these darts and at points it was generally frightening to walk into certain situations. I think this was also amplified by the most likely over-powered blasters they were using. 
  • Loudspeaker would be a nice addition. Sometimes it was difficult to wrangle people to the next game. Especially since none of us were very good at yelling.
  • Darts in general. Maybe by this time next year we'll finally have the end-all solution.

 

I definitely plan on going next year. Sorry East Coast, but it is better than Apoc.




#347438 Taobao Longshot Shotgun Grip by F10555

Posted by Ryan201821 on 25 June 2015 - 05:53 PM in General Nerf

I might be able to do something similar to this, and most likely better.

Now I need to find a Longshot.



#347392 GRZ'S BDAY BEATDOWN

Posted by Ryan201821 on 23 June 2015 - 01:53 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm in need for a non-pattycake war.

Good luck finding a location though, because we would've done this a year ago.



#347262 A team of web developers wants to make something for you!

Posted by Ryan201821 on 17 June 2015 - 05:59 PM in General Nerf

I'm actually planning on opening a 3D printing service later today, similar to snickers old thread.

I'm sure it'll also be cheaper than other 3rd party sites which usually charge you an arm and a leg, although their machines are a lot more accurate.



#347163 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 12 June 2015 - 03:04 PM in Homemades

PullSCRT 2.0

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The most noticeable change from 1.0, is the curved 3D printed stock. It's cheaper in terms of labor and materials, and is more comfortable than the old version. We've also eliminated the need for square plunger rod material, which is expensive, and less readily available than 1/2" rod. The priming handle is now guided by the newly added bottom stock bar, which is also 1/2" rod.

You can see here how the new priming handle is wedged between the top and bottom of the stock. The bottom rod fits inside the handle and is mounted by the same screw used to mount the handle.

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Another small change is the trigger. Instead of having a 1/4" rod for the trigger spring, we used a longer spring and printed a space to keep it aligned.

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I also dyed it purple because it looks cool.

Edit:

I forgot to mention these things.

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It's an inflatable air pillow to use for winterizing your pool. It's only $26 shipped and is approximately 3' x 15'. We'll see how durable it is at the next war, and what we're going to do about staking it down. Only takes about a minute to inflate and deflate when using a shop vac.



#347146 [IL] S.C.S.N.W. presents... "Foam, I am Your Father"

Posted by Ryan201821 on 11 June 2015 - 06:39 PM in Nerf Wars

Footage from last month's war




#346736 Quick Exhaust Valve Homemade Airgun v1.0

Posted by Ryan201821 on 14 May 2015 - 04:31 PM in Homemades

Mind telling me the print settings (shell layers and infill percent)? Also, I'm assuming PLA since its most common and ABS doesn't offer many mechanical advantages over PLA when its FDM printed (different story for injection molded). Also, you might consider putting the bolt holes a little far farther from the edges on the handle assembly (mounting bracket and the grip itself) as you're introducing some significant stress raisers that could reduce your fatigue life. I'm not sure if the stresses involved in normal operation go above the endurance limit for the design, but it's something to consider (iirc PLA/ABS have fairly low endurance limits).

It doesn't look like there are *any* significant loads being put on any of the printed parts in this design. The printed parts are just holding the non-printed stuff in place and providing a convenient place to hold the thing. I'm sure a non-printed version could be designed, but this way it really does make everything plug & play, assuming you've got access to a 3d printer. And with all the printer hubs I'm seeing pop up on the various print service sites(one being mere blocks from my house), that's becoming a reasonable assumption.

For these particular pieces, I used pretty standard settings (at least to us). The printer these came off have a 0.6mm nozzle, which is a lot larger than what most people use. This results in thicker extrusion paths, making the "shell" thicker. My "shell" layers (or perimeters for slic3r people) for these pieces are three perimeters at 0.8mm width, so a 2.4mm thick shell. The top and bottom have 4 layers at 0.3mm layer height. You don't need a larger nozzle to do these larger prints, but it helps tremendously. The nozzle most common today seems like 0.4mm, which really, is too small for applications like this.

For everything we do it's either 100% rectilinear infill, or hexagonal infill, usually about 20-30%. We only do solid pieces on parts that take a significant load (alloveryourface), which like Meaker said there really aren't any in this design. For example, on the ESLT there are ~7 completely solid pieces that see a lot of wear and tear. In addition the handles have 5 perimeters and are solid at the top, where the "screw ports" are.

Also, we use strictly ABS. PLA is pretty much garbage for what we normally do. PLA isn't machinable at all, and usually just melts when you try to drill/tap/cut. It's also a lot harder to clean up post print, as opposed to ABS. PLA is much more brittle than ABS which doesn't work well for most things we do either. The one advantage I see to PLA is the inter-layer adhesion, which is typically better than ABS, assuming both setups are calibrated correctly. To combat this we use the larger than normal nozzles/extrusion paths, which makes the parts a lot stronger. We also print at higher temps than most people (250 C), which helps inter-layer adhesion as well. PLA also warps less, but we've conquered that with extra/special brim on some of the larger pieces. I use AquaNet hairspray on borosilicate glass (Pyrex) to get my prints to stick, with a heated bed at about 100 C.

The reason for the stress marks on the handle is basically I screwed up. That part basically doesn't have enough room to have screw ports, and I also didn't tap them beforehand, which sometimes causes the stress marks to appear, especially when they're near the edge. The handle in the pictures doesn't really fit the trigger valve anyway, so I sent Zeke some new parts which he will be receiving shortly.

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As you can the handle flanges out at the top, creating enough room for the screw ports the pump clamp needs to attach to it. The other piece is just a retaining clip which I explained a bit in this post.



#346640 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 08 May 2015 - 04:12 PM in Homemades

sub-optimal stock, blowgun attachment, cooler than your blaster.

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#346621 Quick Exhaust Valve Homemade Airgun v1.0

Posted by Ryan201821 on 08 May 2015 - 03:52 AM in Homemades

I wish it looked this shiny in real life.

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The handle I sent Zeke didn't quite fit because I didn't compensate enough for how much the brass fittings stick out of the trigger valve. So while reprinting that, I also redesigned the handle clamp, which should grip the bike pump much better. I've also printed a couple clamps, which are connected by a piece of 1/2" PVC, to help stabilize the tank against the bike pump. It also looks cool having everything in line, in my opinion.

I'm excited for semi-auto too, the printed parts will probably be a lot different. In the the next version I'd like to print something that will fully contain the entire, or most of the system, including the air tank.

To get an idea of how short this thing really is, here is a comparison.

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#346609 MN Spring Training 2015

Posted by Ryan201821 on 07 May 2015 - 05:21 PM in Nerf Wars

We will be there.

We also have lots of blasters for sale and borrow



#346599 [IL] S.C.S.N.W. presents... Foam-ieval Times Dinner & Tournament

Posted by Ryan201821 on 06 May 2015 - 04:52 PM in Nerf Wars

Kane, feel free to use the Facebook page to promote PRE-SALES of your homemade blasters and establish Paypal purchases prior to upcoming events. If you want me to assist just shoot me a PM. I want to see MHA business thrive :)

We also accept all major credit/debit cards through PayPal Here, which is basically a card reader attached to my phone. People can pay at the war through this or with cash.

As always all our blasters are free to try even if you don't intend on ever buying one.



#346047 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 07 April 2015 - 04:11 PM in Homemades

The rest of you guys suck! Triple post up in this bitch

Super rocket attachment. Loosely based off of Sorrow's turrets he used to sell.
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Experimentation with "M600" command allowing you to change filament mid-print. Super rainbows, son.

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#345976 [IL] S.C.S.N.W. Presents... Foam-Zilla! (NERF WAR)

Posted by Ryan201821 on 02 April 2015 - 02:01 PM in Nerf Wars

I will most likely be there.



#345951 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 01 April 2015 - 05:01 PM in Homemades

Lots of blasters now in stock! ESLTs, PullSCRTs, BullPACs, Aabows, HAMPs, and Silicone Dome Darts!

Check out our Featured Sales Thread.

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#345859 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 27 March 2015 - 05:12 PM in Homemades

ESLTs now in stock. 5 available colors to choose from.

Check out our sales thread.

PullSCRTs will be available by early next week.

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#344995 The PullSCRT

Posted by Ryan201821 on 13 February 2015 - 04:49 PM in Homemades

The reason for the staged barrels on the ESLTs is simply because the blaster cannot effectively use 14+" of CPVC with the amount of draw and force they have, so we add a section of aluminum to make the barrel long enough to reach the front. On these blasters, they probably don't need the staged barrels, in fact they could probably use a longer section of CPVC. I can't say I've done any extensive testing to support that a staged barrel does or doesn't make any noticeable difference. I do notice that it does seem to help darts from spinning out with the silicone domes we use, but again, no real testing on that.

You can also substitute the aluminum in the staged barrel for Sch 80 PVC, which is usually around the same ID as aluminum. The downside to this is you usually have to use a PVC Coupler which doesn't make the barrel straight at all. Sch 80 PVC can also vary quite a bit. I've seen ID's range from .520"-.565". The aluminum is usually always around what they say (.527").

This is also less powerful than how most people build their blasters. The Pull-SCRT has 6" of draw, compared to a +bow which according to how Slug had them modeled, somewhere between 6.375"-6.5" of draw on the last notch. The +bow also used a [k26], where this uses a [k25], which is slightly less powerful.

And also, jwasko, the ESLTs get 5.5" of draw.



#344967 ESLT 1.6 Instructions

Posted by Ryan201821 on 12 February 2015 - 03:42 PM in Homemades

I have a question. Could you use this setup with just straight up CPVC, and not transition it to Aluminum rod?

Other than that, Great job.

Use this setup with whatever works best for your darts...but...

I built one of these (1.5 actually), but I couldn't get a full CVPC barrel to work very well. Granted, that's probably because I use really fat foam, but the aluminum definitely makes it fly better if you can manage to get CPVC to work.

A full CPVC barrel probably won't work for most people, unless you have thinner foam than most people get.

Edit: Also if you did build the 1.5, upgrading it to this version should be easy. None of the major components have changed.



#344966 The PullSCRT

Posted by Ryan201821 on 12 February 2015 - 03:34 PM in Homemades

Interesting design. There are a few things that I am unclear on, however....

Does the transition in the barrel from CPVC to the aluminum not interfere with the darts? It seems like the aluminum should be beveled, but it may not need it.

Also, I see that you are using an O-ring in this design. Is it better in terms of performance to a skirt or other seal? I understand that it is definitely better in terms of cost.

The transition doesn't necessarily need to be beveled, since the aluminum has larger inside diameter than the CPVC. However, we usually bevel it slightly just to make sure the end that was cut doesn't have any jagged edges.

Definitely much cheaper, only four cents compared to five bucks the skirt seal costs. As far as performance, it's pretty much exactly the same from what I can tell. They're also critical for the check valve design we used for the plunger heads.

This looks sweet. Hopefully I can put one together before the indoor war in March. Just a quick question about the stock: I assume you are using thinwall for the top part of the stock just because it is lighter, right? I can't think of any other reasons, but I just want to make sure before I edit the files for standard PVC.

Pretty much. The weight difference is appreciable. You'll just have to change the StockTopPrint if you can't find thin wall.



#344914 ESLT 1.6 Instructions

Posted by Ryan201821 on 10 February 2015 - 12:24 AM in Homemades

ESLT 1.6 Build Guide



1423546055-344914-1-alAssemblyStepMaster

Background:

Original thread: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=23437
ESLT 1.0: https://sites.google...er---3d-printed
ESLT 1.5: https://sites.google...1-5-build-guide

Clear ESLT Demo: https://www.youtube....h?v=lz9rx-qmZmE

The first ESLT was built 2+ years ago, and a lot has changed since the original. This is the latest version MHA is producing, and the design will continue to evolve from here. A 3D printer is required to make these blasters unless you are clever enough to substitute all the printed pieces with something else. It's definitely possible, as many people have already done this, including ourselves. The 3D printed version is obviously a lot easier to build if you have the necessary tools.

This blaster is designed for 5.5" of draw.

Changes since 1.5:
-New printed angled pump grip (replaces reducing tee)
-Eyebolt changed to a steel one
-New ReDirectPiece and o-ring holder
-Changed plunger rod material to anodized aluminum
-New BarrelSpacer to accommodate pump grip
-MainHandle more angled for comfort


Downloadable Files

Click Here
39 MB

Contains everything you need, stl's for printing, stp's for modeling, and a parts/cost sheet.

.ipt files are compatible with Autodesk Inventor 2014 or newer.

Essential Tools
-3D Printer w/ no less than 7x7x7" print area
-Scrollsaw or Hacksaw
-Drill press and/or power drill
-Dremel w/ cutting wheel or Mill/Scrollsaw
-7/64”, 5/32", .260" (or slightly over .250), 1/2", 5/8" drill bits
-#6-32 tapping bit
-1/4-20 tap and die set
-5/16-18 tapping bit
-Scissors and/or file
-Screwdriver
-Countersink (Any size, really)
-Hot glue and/or super glue
-Duct tape
-Silicone lube
-Safety glasses
-Vise and/or wrench
-Tape measure/ruler/calipers

Printing your Components

1426015450-344914-2-ESLT1.6_PrintedParts

MainHandleZPrint/Halves - This is the part of the handle you physically hold. There are two ways to do this. You can do it vertically, like we do, or you can do it in two halves and glue them together. If people don't have printers that can print up to 160mm in the Z axis, you'll need to do them in halves. Layer adhesion is the weakest point on parts that come off these printers, so extra/thicker perimeters are a must if printing vertically. A larger nozzle is preferred. Post-print you'll have to tap the two holes (#6) at the top of the print where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may need to drill out the three holes (#6 clearance), where it attaches to the FrontHandlePiece.

FrontHandlePiece - This is probably the most challenging print on the blaster. They are pretty long (175mm) and will warp at least a little bit unless you really have your settings on your printer super fine tuned. I've found adding lots of brim helps, especially adding brim to your model so the brim is actually attached to the printed part for a layer or two. Post-print you'll need to tap the two holes (#6) where it attaches to the HandleClamp. You also may want to drill out the two holes (#6 clearance), where the CatchPiece and Trigger are mounted.

HorizontalPumpGrip - This is the aforementioned new add-on. It replaces the reducing tee which was heavy, expensive, and a lot of machining required to get it to work. We usually print these with a few extra perimeters, and is now the biggest print on the blaster.

CatchPiece; CatchInterface - The CatchPiece is basically the catch of the blaster (hence the name), where the CatchInterface is more like the "catch notch" in a normal blaster. These two pieces need to be 100% infill since they see a lot of wear during use. Post-print you'll need to tap (1/4) the only hole on this piece.

Trigger3DPrint/Mirror - These don't really don't matter how they're printed. You'll need to glue the two piece together after they are printed. After they're glued together, drill out the hole (#6 clearance).

ReDirectPiece - This piece sees a lot of wear since the plunger head is smashing into it each time it's fired, so it's printed at 100% infill. After it's printed, drill out the hole for the CPVC stub (5/8"), and drill and tap (#6) the three new holes on the bottom of the piece.

ReDirectPieceWasher - This is a new piece that sandwiches the rod seal o-ring against the ReDirectPiece. We usually print these at 100% infill to be safe, and they're small pieces. Drill out the three holes (#6 clearance).

HorizontalPumpGripSpacer(x2) - These replace the old PumpGripSpacer, and need to be 100% infill. Drill out the two holes (#6 clearance). They are much smaller and easier to print than the old version.

EyeboltAdapter - The Eyebolt Adpater needs to be strong and is a quick print with a larger nozzle. The new adapters are fitted for a #6-32 steel eyebolt, as opposed to the #10-24 or 1/4-20 nylon ones we used to use. Post-print, you'll have to tap one end with a 1/4-20 tap, and the other end uses a square nut and does not need to be tapped.

BarrelSpacerHorizontalPumpGrip - The newly added printed pump grip, meant we needed to make some extra space near the front since it's much longer than the reducing tee. This new print fits inside the front end of the FrontTube as well as the outside. More perimeters is probably a good idea for this print as barrel spacers are always prone to getting damaged.

ESLTPlungerHead (Front/Rear) - More information on these can be found here. You'll need to tap (#6) the two holes in the front piece that connects the two. The back piece should be drilled out with a #6 clearance hole. Both also need to be tapped (1/4-20) to attach to the plunger rod.

WyeSpacer - Also another print that doesn't have to meet any specifications. This print simply gives you a wedge in between the wye and the front tube to tape the barrel assembly from wobbling.

StockFlange (optional) - If you have a printer you might as well do this piece. It attaches the plunger tube to an HDPE sheet which is hot glued to a piece of foam, for comfort. This is a highly recommended add.

Tube & Rod Machining

1423546055-344914-3-rimingTubeDimensions

The Priming tube is the linkage from the HorizontalPumpGrip that pushes on the CatchInterface, which pushes back the plunger rod. You can scrollsaw, mill, or dremel the bottom slot. The holes should be 7/64" or a #6 pilot, and need to be tapped afterwards. These need to be fairly centered holes so the 1" is mounted centrally inside the 1 1/4" front tube.

1423546055-344914-4-lungerTubeDimensions

Make sure your PVC is smooth on the inside. The majority of PVC we encounter is very bumpy and awful on the inside, creating unnecessary friction and a shitty seal. The holes will be drilled after you've inserted and attached your ReDirectPiece and Stock.

1423546055-344914-5-CFrontTubeDimensions

The biggest tube to machine, and requires some pretty long slots. We do these on a mill, but a scrollsaw is probably the next best option, followed by a Dremel, which is pretty terrible. The slot should be at least 3/8" wide, if they are centered. If they're off, they'll like need to be oversized. The holes should also be #6 pilot holes and drilled after you've assembled some stuff. Again, this will be explained more later. The larger hole in the front is 1/2" in diameter which holds the spring post. You'll also need a slot on the bottom for the CatchPiece to clear.

1423546055-344914-6-chPVCClampDimensions

These are basically a tube cut almost in half, leaving one side to be a little more than a half tube. This will clamp over/slide over your 1 1/4" tubes, and connect your handle to them. It needs a 1/2" slot in the bottom, with 5/32" or #6 clearance holes to attach to the handle. They also need to be countersinked. The holes near the top of the clamp should be #6 clearance holes, and you should drill them before cutting the tube in half.

1423546055-344914-7-1.6_BarrelDimensions

Pretty straightforward here, make sure you chamfer the CPVC/PVC barrel combo to allow a smooth feed for the the darts. Instead of using a CPVC coupler, you can also use a length of 1/2" PVC drilled out to 5/8", or magical conduit that cheerios finds at Menards. Make sure you super glue your CPVC/PVC barrel combo because you don't want that coming un-done.

1423546055-344914-8-PlungerRodDimensions

This can be a difficult piece to machine. You'll have to cut the aluminum rod to 11.5", and use a die to cut threads 1.5" long on both sides. During this process you'll have to figure out a way to vise the rod without damaging it. We usually use two pieces of soft wood that you can just crush in the vice. Make sure you don't bend the plunger rod in the process. Both of these will cause major issues later, mostly the plunger rod having tons of unnecessary friction.

We're now using a segement of anodized aluminum instead of the plain stuff. It's three times more expensive, but is much less prone to getting scratched and marred causing the plunger rod to seal like shit. The McMaster# in this drawing is incorrect, and should be #6750K13

1423546055-344914-9-ESLT1.6_StubsandMisc

These are just small bits that you'll need later on. #6 clearance hole for the spring post, and roughly .25" away from the top.

Super glue the CPVC/PVC wye stub. You need this to stay together when you press fit the Barrel Assembly together.

Sub-Assemblies

1423763669-344914-10-LT1.6_BarrelAssembl

1423763669-344914-11-6_PlungerRodAssembl

1423763669-344914-12-ESLT1.6_FoamStock.j

The shape of the foam piece and stock plate are really up to the user's preference. Make sure you drill speed holes after you've put the stock on the plunger tube. Your blaster won't work otherwise. Just use the 5/32" bit and drill 3 or 4 holes through the side of the flange and the plunger tube to allow air to pass through when firing.

1423763669-344914-13-LT1.6_HandleAssembl

1423763669-344914-14-_PlungerTubeAssembl

This is the step where you'll need your hot glue gun. Your ReDirectPiece should be loose-ish in the Plunger tube, so add a small line of hot glue around where it's being inserted into the tube. Push that in all the way until the Plunger tube butts up against the top of the ReDirectPiece.

Now take your Redirectpiecewasher, and sandwich the smaller o-ring in between the bottom of it, and the front of the Redirectpiece. It's easier to align the o-ring when you have the plunger rod through it when you assemble. Tighten the screws enough so it seals the o-ring between the two plastic pieces. If you tighten the screws too much, you'll smash the o-ring too much, causing it to have a lot of extra friction on the plunger rod. You'll also want to lube this o-ring up during assembly.

During the Final Assembly, you'll drill the holes you need to secure this assembly to the rest of the blaster. Right now, you should have no holes in the ReDirectPiece, or the Plunger tube.


Final Blaster Assembly

1423763669-344914-15-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1426015450-344914-16-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1426015450-344914-17-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1426015450-344914-18-LT1.6_FinalAssembly

1423763669-344914-19-alAssemblyStepMaste

Questions, comments, flames, please post...



#344902 [PA] Nerf War at Plains Airsoft Arena, Sunday March 22nd

Posted by Ryan201821 on 09 February 2015 - 06:49 PM in Nerf Wars

Good chances we will be there, with P-SCRTs and ESLTs for sale.



#344901 The PullSCRT

Posted by Ryan201821 on 09 February 2015 - 05:57 PM in Homemades

The PullSCRT

[video needed]

1423544927-344901-1-_FinalAssemblyMaster

Background:

+bow: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=10521
Purple Catch: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=24114

The idea behind this blaster was to replace the +bow by using 3D printed parts. It's much quicker to built, has no face diddle, built in check-valve, and costs much less to build in terms of materials and labor. This guide will also show you how to build The Purple Catch, which can be installed on any blaster with 1 1/4" PVC.

Blaster is designed to have 6" of draw.

Downloadable Files

Click Here
51 MB

Contains everything you need, stl's for printing, stp's for modeling, and a parts/cost sheet.

.ipt files are compatible with Autodesk Inventor 2014 or newer.

Essential Tools
-3D Printer w/ no less than 7x7x7" print area
-Scrollsaw or Hacksaw
-Drill press and/or power drill
-Dremel w/ cutting wheel or Mill/Scrollsaw
-7/64”, 5/32", 3/8" drill bits
-#6-32 tapping bit
-Scissors and/or file
-Screwdriver
-#6 Countersink
-Hot glue and super glue
-Silicone lube
-Safety glasses
-Vise and/or wrench
-Tape measure, ruler

Printing your Components

1423544927-344901-2-P-SCRT_PrintedParts.

Handle - We usually do a couple extra perimeters for the Handle. If you are using newer versions of Slic3r (1.2 and higher), you can add modifiers to the object you're printing, which will allow you to alter settings for a specific section. For example, in this case we want just the top section to be solid infill, where the screws attach. The rest of the handle can be printed normally. If you need help with this, let me know. Post print, you need to drill out the hole (#6 pilot) for the trigger, and tap it. You also need to drill and tap the two holes on the bottom that attach the stock rod.

PlungerRodHandle - This part is designed to have 6mm walls at the thinnest point. Since we have a printer with a 0.6mm nozzle, this is five perimeters. You'll want at least those areas to be solid. Post print, drill out the hole where it attaches to the plunger rod (#6 clearance).

CatchPiece - Make sure this piece is solid. After it's printed, you'll have to file/sand each edge and surface down. Fit it inside the cavity on the handle where it's supposed to go to ensure it slides properly.

TriggerHalf1-2 - Print these normally, but you'll need to pay some special attention to these pieces afterwards. Glue each half together with super glue. After the glue is dry, sand/file the edges just like you did on the CatchPiece to make sure it fits nicely in the handle.

StockGuideFront/Rear - These can be printed normally. The hole in the front piece is an outlet for 1/2" PVC. Drill out all eight holes with a #6 clearance. On the front piece there will be some support material underneath that you'll need to remove.

Stock-Bottom/Top-Print - Print these with normal settings and drill out the 6 holes for the stock (#6 clearance), and the two on the bottom print where you'll attach screws to the bottom rod.

SpringRest/Back - Print both of these pieces solid. Drill (#6 pilot) and tap the four holes on the larger piece, and drill out (#6 clearance) the two countersink holes on the back piece.

PlungerHeadFront/Back - These pieces should also be printed solid. Drill out the two countersink holes in the back piece (#6 clearance). On the front piece, drill out (#6 clearance) the countersink hole, and drill (#6 pilot) and tap the two holes that attach the two pieces to each other. You'll also have to remove a small amount of support material from the front piece.

Tube & Rod Machining

1423544927-344901-3-P-SCRT_PlungerTube.j

Make sure your PVC is smooth on the inside. The majority of PVC we encounter is very bumpy and awful on the inside, creating unnecessary friction and a shitty seal. The larger holes on the top and sides should be 3/8". Countersink the two holes on the bottom from the top, through the larger holes. These holes attach your handle. All the small holes should be #6 pilots. Cut a slot for the CatchPiece using a mill or dremel. You can also use a scrollsaw but you'll have to make a large hole on the top to accommodate for the scrollsaw blade.

1423544927-344901-4-ThinwallPVCStockTube

1423544927-344901-5-CRT_BarrelPlungerRod

1423544927-344901-6-P-SCRT_StubsMisc.jpg

Sub-Assemblies

1423544927-344901-7--SCRT_HandleAssembly

1423544927-344901-8-_PlungerHeadAssembly

1423544927-344901-9-P-SCRT_StockAssembly

1423546055-344901-10--SCRT_BarrelAssembl

1423546055-344901-11-_PlungerTubeAssembl

Final Assembly

1423546055-344901-12--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-13--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-14--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-15--SCRT_FinalAssembly

1423546055-344901-16-_FinalAssemblyMaste

Questions, comments, flames, please post...



#344898 Digital Designs Directory - for 3D printing, laser cutting, CNC, etc.

Posted by Ryan201821 on 09 February 2015 - 05:06 PM in Homemades

This is a really nice feature I noticed last time I did a write-up. Super helpful for getting models of PVC fittings and such.



#342590 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 28 October 2014 - 09:05 AM in Homemades

Posted Image
Available for purchase soon!



#342477 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Ryan201821 on 18 October 2014 - 06:46 PM in Homemades

Horizontal printed pump grip

Posted Image

Pullback prototype

Posted Image



#341932 I'm making foam

Posted by Ryan201821 on 15 September 2014 - 06:07 AM in Darts and Barrels

If thats the same foam as a pool noodle, it's not going to work. Open cell foam doesn't work for darts, yo.



#341668 Don't Leave your Blasters in the Car

Posted by Ryan201821 on 01 September 2014 - 07:03 PM in Homemades

This is one of the few reasons we don't warranty clear blasters. I have had this happen to two or three blasters now. Clear PVC is inferior.

Edit: Also furniture grade PVC isn't the same as standard Sch 40 stuff. It's usually 1.5" ID instead of ~1.36".



#341290 August 30th Green Bay Nerfinz round 2

Posted by Ryan201821 on 18 August 2014 - 02:57 AM in Nerf Wars

So I think Kane is out for this but I have a real possibility of making this. I will be in Waupaca which is only about an hour from there so obviously I would love to come. May not have mobstacles or tons of loner blasters but we will see.

How many darts are you planning on having?



#341270 Another dart door

Posted by Ryan201821 on 17 August 2014 - 12:45 PM in Homemades

It's a shitshow, I know, but I don't know of a comparable repository for this sort of thing.

Also, I resent your implication that 10% of users on thingiverse provide more useful information and files.

Yeah, I think you misplaced the decimal point. It's like .001% things are useful. And if it is useful, its probably a dude who uploaded just the stl in an orientation thats impossible to print.

Anyway, these things are pretty awesome. The only drawback is the diameter of the foam has to be in a sweet spot. Too loose and darts will fall through and not seal, too large and it'll be difficult to push through. However, I would still use this over a ball valve/endcap/anything else. It's scary awesome when you have a pump action diddle blaster with one of these attached.



#341246 Green Bay Nerfinz

Posted by Ryan201821 on 16 August 2014 - 02:07 AM in Nerf Wars

If anyone has some corn starch please bring it. We forgot it.



#341232 Do you still use Nerf brand toys?

Posted by Ryan201821 on 15 August 2014 - 05:24 PM in Site Feedback

I think there needs to be a "none of the above" checkbox, since I don't apply to any of those, yet it's saying I didn't respond to each poll question. Just an FYI.

The only time I use nerf blasters are when I am screwing around with a disc blaster. I think they're the coolest product line nefr has made, even though it's probably one of the least popular.



#341204 Green Bay Nerfinz

Posted by Ryan201821 on 14 August 2014 - 01:17 PM in Nerf Wars

We will also have several ESLTs we will be bringing to let people borrow or purchase.

Looking forward to all those silicone domes.

Also chances are we'll most likely bring mobstacles.