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Darth Freyr's Content
There have been 75 items by Darth Freyr (Search limited from 23-February 93)
The trigger looks to have quite a few possible issues. The first one being the question of reach. I can't be sure just from looking, but it seems like you would really have to stretch your trigger finger in order to actually pull on the trigger. In my experience, the trigger shouldn't really stick out a whole lot beyond the line of the handle, as you do want your index finger to get a decent wrap around it. You can't pull a trigger if you're juts scraping it with the pad of your finger.
Still on the trigger, it also looks like it would pinch your middle finger when you pull it. Again, I can't be sure without seeing how far it swings, but I bet your hand is going to be migrating up that handle if you start to do anything like run around with the blaster.
This may be more questionable, but the angle of the front face of the trigger looks uncomfortable. Currently, it looks like it is angled backward pretty sharply. As you pull on the trigger, that's going to push downward on your index finger. And the angle will only get worse as the trigger rotates further backward. Generally, I like to have the front curve of the trigger to start bending forward again, at least until the point that the bottom-most as at least vertical when the trigger is fully pulled.
I also see a lot of potential problems with your pump-action system. Starting from the front, you always have to be careful when applying offset forces to a mechanism, such as having the pump grip significantly below the plunger rod. Pulling on the handle is going to generate significant torque that has to be canceled out somewhere. You also have to make sure your connection can handle that torque in addition to the linear forces. Additionally, I cant see any sort of guide or tracks for the pump. What happens if pull slightly downward on the pump? Would it just come off of the blaster completely? Moving backward, I would also remove the aforementioned holes in the rods/bars there.
The whole back end of the pump system also looks extremely dodgy to me. The images do not show it very well, but it looks like you just have a couple of screws through the bars, sticking inwards. The first problem is another of torques: what would stop the bars from just bending there? Or the whole bar just bowing outward? You also have to make sure that the screws are going to stay fairly centered vertically on that plate at the back of your plunger rod, or else you're also going to be torquing it as well. A better solution might be to have a standoff above and below the plunger rod, connected to both sides of the pump. That way, the potential bowing of the pump bars is greatly reduced and the forces on the plunger rod will stay vertically balanced.
There also appear to be a decent number of structural problems with the design as a whole. As roboman mentioned, your side plates don't reach the front of the plunger tube. This means that the bushing at the front of the plunger tube would be supported only by the thin walls of the plunger tube. This would probably be okay if you use aluminum for the tube, but it would be a very bad idea with polycarbonate. The way that the plunger tube is currently mount also looks like any motion on a barrel or hopper assembly, or any unintentional forces on them, are only supported by the mounting in the very back. That could potentially lead to a large stack of broken or cracked plunger tubes. I would also suggest some sort of horizontal support at the top of the side plates, like sticking a standoff between the holes that connect the top stock bars to the side plates.
I think you might also have some problems with your stock, particularly with how it connects with the rest of the blaster. Right now, all the support for the bottom of the stock comes from those two screws at the bottom of the handle. Transferring that force into the main frame of the blaster is going to come from shear forces. Those pieces on the handle on not very wide, and not very thick. Personally, I wouldn't be that comfortable stressing them like that. I think a lot of this problem could be averted by putting another screw between the two parts near the top of the handle.
There are a few other assorted things as well. It looks like the holes in the top bars on the stock don't line up. This isn't a problem on its own, but it might indicate other inconsistencies in the geometry. 7" of draw on a [k26] is probably overkill, I think you'd be better off with something closer to 6"-6.5". You might also want to check the unprimed spring length in the blaster. Springs may shorten up a bit from their new length after some use, and having a spring rattling around inside a blaster is annoying. Also, you might want to be careful with that sort of catch notch on your plunger rod. It has definitely been done successfully, but it usually means a thinner catch face, so you might want to be sure that you don't round over the edge too much, on either the plunger rod or the catch plate.
I know that this response might seem extremely critical, but I just wanted to point out some things I've learned from my experiences so they don't surprise you later. It's also how I think I communicate most clearly.
I will have all the loaner blasters with me, and hopefully a better setup for hoppers and barrels. I don't have a whole lot of wyes though, so I'd be interested in any spares that people have sitting around.
I don't think I will have nearly as many new darts as the past couple wars, unless they really needed, as I have used up most of my foam.
Lizard Messiah, if there's anything I can do to help with organization and/or supplies, just let me know.
On another note, I've been wondering if there's much interest in doing a Washington wye group-buy. If that's something that would interest you, or if I've missed something like that going on, send me an email.
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The last one is two plungers connected on the same handle. The top plunger has a 20-tube turreted chopper. The bottom plunger is pump action. The front plate has holes to put darts into.
I'm planning on shotgunning the bottom plunger.
I hope to have a write-up for the basic version in the near future. There are a lot more pictures here, though some are still pretty big. If you have questions, find me on the IRC.
Also, I've heard that some people think Zero valves wouldn't work.
Ordering from the Clippard site isn't the best choice. Oftentimes you can find the products on ebay or other sites with much more reasonable S+H. I got a regulator from them a while back, and it was actually from an industrial surplus site. So just look around and search for the item number, and it should show up eventually.
Well, I was going to order this... I saw that it shipped from cincinnati ohio, which I live 20 minutes (MAYBE) from. I then proceeded to make an order. They want 8.77 for shipping, and then they have a 10 dollar handling fee on top of that. That is just total BS. 10 dollars to put something in a padded envelope? 8.77 to ship something that is the size of 5 nickels stacked on top of each other down the street? RIDICULOUS.
On-topic now. This is a pretty interesting design. I think I may be trying it out soon, albeit with 9/16" OD nylon because that's what I have laying around. I think I'll also be using an angled handle. When you said you preferred vertical, was that compared to using a 45 degree elbow? Have you thought about making use of quick release pins or something of that sort to hold it together, so that you could switch the parts out mid- or between rounds? Also, in the video, it looked like the priming tee could have hit the hand that was on the trigger. Have you noticed this being a problem?
Yeah, the pump action is fun. For the skirt head, 9562K48 fits with a 1.5" spacer inside. What spring are you using? I hope you don't mind if my write-up is up first. Also, did you have any issues getting a good barrel fit? If anyone cares, I'm probably also going to make another one that uses either a 12" PT or full spring, probably the latter.
I used 5/8" by 3/4" polycarbonate for the RSCB tubes, with 3/4" by 7/8" polycarbonate on the ends. The tee is actually a 3/4" CPVC tee. It is connected to the blaster using 1/2" PVC, which has e-tape wrapped around it to fit in the tee. Darts can easily be loaded from the front of the RSCBs.
The darts stay in the tubes pretty well. The only issue is that if you are swinging it forcefully and are unlucky you may lose a dart out the front occasionally. The RSCB turret is attached using 1/2" rod and 6-32 threaded rod. The clothespin is also not glued down and slides as you pull the trigger
The priming handle slides in a slot in the plunger rod. The plunger rod is made from 9/16" by 5/8" nylon, which fits nicely into the CPVC fitting. The mass of the moving plunger is about 50 grams. If anyone knows the mass of a normal SNAPBow plunger, please tell me.
You can just pull the handle back and let it go. I don't have ranges, but it works well at wars. That's my SNAPBow, I hope someone gets some good ideas from it.
As you can probably tell, I also "used" a +bow handle. The LAB mounts with 10-32 or 10-24 screws. There is an 1/8" gap on both sides though.
The catch is pretty simple, just a normal plate.
It is fired with the lever. Just pull it up after you prime the blaster. Here is a good picture of the whole thing while primed with the lever forward.
The blaster shoots fairly well. I used for a few rounds today (along with my +bow) and it was very effective. It makes a nice second shot with good range. I still need to find a good setup for barrels though.
Some more background in before the deadline: My design was intended to add another shot to my +bow for rushing, both defending against and performing them. It served this purpose well. When I used it, it just had a 12" breech, but I plan to use some sort of breeched shotgun or whatnot. What I feel is innovative about it is the use of the +bow mounting holes and using the lever as the trigger. I think that pretty much sums up the criteria.
There are also several more pictures in the Photobucket album and I can take more on request.
You're probably going to need a deeper hole than that. I don't know how deep it needs to be for a titan, but if you compress the pump fully and the end is flat, there is a good chance your check valve will become misaligned. If possible, increase the opening pressure of the OPRV and remove the plug material.
Also, make sure you cut down the hot glue (or whatever you used to plug the pump) so it's flat with the end of the pump head. If you don't do that you will destroy your check valve.
Broderick, on the Alamo, the defenders are allowed to reload. However this is often impossible or unnecessary due to short rounds, oncoming attackers, and Raider drums.
Even if the pin is 1 1/4" out, check if air is leaking out of the front. I don't know what the I.D. of 2k tubing is. Maybe you could edit this question into the subtitle of this thread. If when you push the pump, you can generate some pressure, even a tiny bit, and nothing else is leaking, I think the check valve must be shot. Once you know the I.D. of 2k tubing, go to McMaster-Carr. If the I.D. is 1/8", type 7757K11 into the search box and click find. If the I.D. is 3/16", type 7757K12 into the search box and click find. Continue with the McMaster-Carr checkout. Be warned, i'm pretty sure the minimum for shipping is $5, so buy the check valve locally if possible. Once you get your check valve, measure the length of one barb (the very end of the barb to the beginning of the body). Add 1/4" to this length. Cut that far away from the start of the yellow tubing. Insert the barb closer to the start of the arrow on the body of the check valve into the part of the yellow tubing closer to the pump. Insert the other barb into the other end of the tubing. If necessary, glue the tubing on to prevent leaks. Read this thread and this thread to see if your question is answered better.
If you can generate one pump of pressure and the pump rod is pushed out, the check valve is likely broken. You could attempt to fix the check valve by carefully cutting open the very back of the pump tube, repositioning the rubber diaphragm, and gluing the whole thing back together. You could also buy a check valve like item 7757K11 on McMaster-Carr. If the tubing I.D. is 3/16" rather than 1/8", go with item 7757K12. The easiest method to add in the check valve would be to cut the tubing leading from the pump so the end will fit entirely over the barb, and push both ends of the tubing on.