So I came across this in my daily news read.  

http://www.ksl.com/?...alypse-for-utah

 

The headline says it's for Utah, but they're hoping for nationwide participation as suggested by the facebook page.  Seems pretty pricey at $30 registration, but it includes some goodies.  It could be pretty fun.

 

Yes, I'm in Utah.  No, I don't have any affiliation with these guys.  I'm just spreading the word.

Did you purchase insurance?

I'm going with SorrowX's suspicion A.
I have two MSs right now that are doing the same thing, I broke the trigger valve on one trying to fix it. One of them fires sometimes if I poke a pen in there and wiggle it around.

This may help:
MS piston fix

Nice write up, I love the paintjob even if it does diddle the eyes.

I'm pretty sure I saw some of these at a local toy store, but I passed them over because they looked like junk. I'd be willing to go back now and look if anyone wants one, I'm unsure of the price, though.

Don't open it up if you don't want to. But if you're not going to open it up, see if you can give us some patent numbers we can look up. I'm no expert on patents but I would assume it would at least have it's own design patent as well as possible a patent pertaining to the Recon's reverse plunger or the Longshot style plunger.

For the west: Deseret Industries.
Includes:
Arizona
California
Idaho
Nevada
Oregon
Utah
Washington

They usually have better prices on things than Savers(Value Village).

Blue, where is acetone sold? I've never looked for it, but it is certainly a good solvent to have.

You can find acetone in the paint section at Home Depot, maybe at Wal-mart, too but I haven't checked.
I'm not sure if it's 100%, but the can says "Acetone" on it.

Nigtfinder, if you're ever checking for leaks and you don't want to dip the whole thing in water try just rubbing really soapy where you suspect leaks, if it bubbles you know there's a leak.

Thank you for helping me with my statistics assignment. I needed some data to analyze. Here's a graphical interpretation for you.

SBB=single BB, W/F=washer and felt, CBB=copper BB, 4=1/4 slingshot ammo

Different darts in the NF,

The bars not really overlapping shows significance between the different dart types.

Different darts in the 3K

The only significant difference here is the 1/4" slingshot ammo.

Different darts in the +bow

Same as before. The only significant difference is the 1/4" slingshot ammo.

So I'd say that your decision to ban slingshot ammo makes sense, as all the others are essentially the same in the higher powered blasters. What I think is interesting is that in the higher powered blasters the slug darts are more consistent whereas in the NF they are less consistent. That could be due to small sample size, but I'm not going to harp on you for that. I'm impressed at what you were able to get. Now if someone with a chronograph would do the same... we might get this KED thing figured out.

Have you called their customer support?
I've called Paypal about problems multiple times, and all but once it has been resolved quickly.

The one problem that they didn't resolve for me was dealing with refunding internationally, which is a pain when you are dealing with other currencies.

Give them a call, and if they can't fix the problem for you, then they will at least be able to tell you why you can't send anything.

Nearly 10 years ago, I decided that paintball had become boring to me. It had become a competition of who could fling the most paint the fastest. What did I do? I didn't quit paintball. I didn't try and "one-up" everyone by trying to fling more paint. I bought a stock class gun and went and played against people with semi-autos.

Did I get hit? You bet. Did I get a lot of kills? Not a chance. But the adrenaline rush of running at a bunch of guys who could each blast 10-15 times as many bps as I could was well worth it, especially if I could get one of them out. The original Nelspot 007 is still my favorite paintball gun of all-time, regardless of the fact that it can only hold ten shots and 12 g of CO2.

In fact last time I played paintball, we were in the woods and I was the only one dressed head to foot in bright red. Everyone else was wearing camo, a couple people even had guillie suits and they all thought I was crazy. But guess who ran around like a madman and was the last man standing on his team. The Red Baron.

If nerf has become "un-fun" to you. Maybe you should re-evaluate why you started nerfing, what made it fun, and why you're still doing it.

If you know that an upcoming war is going to suck because so-and-so is going to be there wielding some sort of monstrosity, then don't go. Or make it your personal goal to pop him in the face with a stock eliminator.

I'd go up against the Guru holding a maverick. I'd go up against a +bow holding a SSPB. Will I win? Probably not. But at the end of the day I will have had fun. And I may just humiliate someone and their beast with a puny pistol in the process.

My point is, no one can decide for you whether or not you're going to have fun. That's up to you. Veterans have told newbs time and time again that ranges mean nothing. Why should we change that now? If someone can consistently hit me from 120' away, then maybe I deserve to be hit. I'll still tell him "nice shot" every time.

On the other hand, if someone shoots me from 10' with a Xbow that can hit 100', then that's another story and it is then the behavior and not the weaponry that needs banning. Paintball put a cap on velocity at 300fps because that's where the force becomes enough to break fingers. If nerf gets to that point where we have to decide what weight/distance combination will draw blood or break through eye protection, then yes, we need to back off. But so far I don't think that's happened.

So, I say let the "technological advances" keep coming.

...Am I insane? ...
-conartist6

Yes.

Sorry, to have led you astray. Since you already had the resistor in parallel with the LED, I thought you knew what you were doing, so I left it like that.

Bob's right, Hipponater knows what he's talking about.

By "snap-ons" you mean the battery connections? I'd get some other wire and use the snap-ons for other projects. I would expect that you'd want some extra wire anyway so you can put the LED, Battery, and switch in convenient locations and not be limited to the length of wire that your snap ons have with them.

Essentially your circuit should look like this.

Switch
	(-)-----------|   |-------|------(-)
Battery						  R	   LED
	(+)----------------------|------(+)

If that makes sense.

You should be able to solder it anywhere in line. I'd put it on the black wire. Just snip it and solder one snipped end to a terminal on the switch, and the other snipped end to the other. Push buttons shouldn't have polarity like an LED would.

By the way, that looks like a basic push button where you have to hold it down for the light to stay on. It's hard to tell, and I know switches come in all shapes and sizes, but I just wanted to make sure you've covered all your bases before you solder anything.

Something that I've done with turreted barrels such as the Mav, Firefly, and DTB is to take the back plate of the turret and on each of the barrel nubs add some rubber cement, then put the rings that you've unfortunately filed down on top of those nubs where they belong and put some rubber cement on top of the rings, now put your turret back together and do it quickly and tightly.

If you can do this without having to take the pieces apart once they've touched each other with rubber cement on them, and if you put it together tightly enough, you may be alright. To know for sure if this is your problem, put your mouth over the larger hole and blow down the barrel as you cover the smaller hole with your finger, if you hear air escaping then you're screwed, if not and it pressurizes, then it's sealed.

The rubber cement makes a sort of gasket that is cheap, thin, and easily removable if you have to go back and fix something.

Nicely done,
Thanks for the credit, and I have no problem with you using my pics since you've noted where they came from.

Quando ero nella sicilia, non ho visto nerf nei negozi che vendono i giocattoli. Veramente non li ho cercato, quindi si possano essere qualcosa simile. Ho sentito che si vendono airsoft di alto qualita' nella calabria. In generale penso che i leggi siano troppo rigido di permettere pistolli finti, ma non lo so.

If you can't read that, then it doesn't matter anyway. Pardonate la mia grammatica schiffa.

If you live in a college town, find out who's in the food science program. There you're sure to find someone who brews something at home, or at least knows how.

And might I add, how thirsty must Canadians be to need half-inch straws?

Not just in Canada, remember I said Boba drinks.

I've been looking for some straws like that. Instead of using them as a full out barrel, I had thought of using them as inserts in stock barrels since stock barrels are only tight at the very base.

I've been finding straws used in boba drinks, but they all seem to be 3/8" and don't even fit a slim home depot foam. I've seen some sites online that sell boba stuff are advertising 1/2" straws, but I'd be timid to buy them since I doubt they'd give exact dimensions on something as silly as drinking straws.

As stated above, you will get a better seal if you drill them out and keep the rings in like you would a maverick or DTB. I have actually done it both ways, just throwing them out and keeping the rings in. It will still work if you throw them out, but your range will be around 20 ft or so.

Nearly a year in the making:
My "Gunslinger's Maverick"



*Hand Engraved







*Wood Grips


This would have looked a lot better if I had a steadier hand with a dremel and with a brush. In fact skipping the brush altogether would have helped on the silver touch ups, but the gold turned out well.

It also has a russian roulette mod and PETG barrels. You may see this on ebay sometime soon, it's time to move on to a new project.

You definitely need to put a "Maybe" in as one of the options.

I may be interested if it were a big enough war. Meaning, it's got to be worth the 6 hour drive.

I've been using Hoppes 9 Lubricating Oil. I've been using that because it was always recommended by everyone as the lube of for o-rings on paintball guns. I haven't played paintball much for the past 7 years, but I had a bottle of it lying around, so I used it on all my nerf guns. It turns out the MSDS lists it as white mineral oil.

Last month I was trying to get a better plunger seal on a NF by making a custom seal with hot glue. I used the lubricating oil to form the glue in the tube and keep it from sticking. About a week later I found that the oil had degraded the hardened hot glue reducing it to the consistency of a wet gumdrop.

The moral of this story: It's time to switch to something silicone based. Also, mineral oil (or at least Hoppe's 9) dissolves hot glue.

Great guide, CS. Though, to clear up an insignificant point, vegetable oil will not necessarily harbor bacteria. Oils go rancid due to oxidation. While it's true that certain microbial growth will cause hydrolytic rancidity, oxidative rancidity is the main culprit making your oils stink, being caused by light, heat, and air.

I got a new piece from diamond and I fixed my gun so it shoots now, but I have run into another problem. When I load the clip and stick it in the gun I can cock it once and shoot it but after that the gun will not cock again. Also when I put the clip in it will not come out unless I take the gun apart and pull the clip off. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks

It sounds like you've put your plunger tube in upside down. It's designed with the small square block on the bottom of the plunger tube. That way when the tube is forward, it pushes down the lock and allows the slide to move back. This prevents double loading. Similarly, the clip lock will only disengage when the bolt sled is back. You can't pull the clip out when the bolt is forward. So if you're bolt is stuck forward, the upside-down plunger tube could be causing both problems.

With my BBB, I straightened a paperclip and then bent it into a squared U shape so that the sides match up with the outside of the barrel.

I then wrapped it with e-tape to get a seal with the orange barrel and stuffed it through the back, so when the gun is put together and I pull the barrel out, it gets a tight, almost irremovable seal. This way I can vacuum load darts and I don't have to worry about a ramrod or my barrel falling off, because the paperclip won't physically permit it to be removed unless I dismantle the gun.

Stock darts are just a bit loose in my petg, which I bought from OMC before he had two sizes. Of course the heads don't fit into the barrel, so the only ones that are really of any use are streamlines, but sometimes they stop half way down the barrel. I think the air is making them sort of balloon out and it causes too much friction. Stefans still work the best.

There is a writeup (in the mod directory) on how to do exactly this to a DTG.

Yes, that's my mod in the mod directory and it's doable. I've looked at the NF and thought about doing it, but I guess I never got around to it, I don't remember why.

But the reason that I only went 1/2 inch more with mine was exactly what cheesypizza said, the plunger physically wouldn't go back any further. I also know that Mr. Badwrench got an extra 1/4 inch out of a Maverick, you'll find that thread on NHQ, it was something about rebarreling a Maverick.

I think the best thing to do is just check how much further things will pull back after they're already primed, then decide what's preventing them from being pulled back further. In the case of the DTB, it was the shell that wouldn't allow it to pull back that extra half inch, and it had to be cut. On the NF, I think it would be the spring being fully compressed. The Maverick needed the catch reversed. I briefly looked at the Firefly, and I think the priming handle prevents it mostly.

I bid you good luck.

Years ago my friends and I used to play laser tag among the buildings of my local elementary at night in the summertime. We never had any real trouble because we were never destructive. Though once or twice we were a bit loud enough to have nearby residents call the police. When they showed up, we just explained what we were doing and they told us to just keep it down a little, but that we could keep playing.

I would expect Nerf to be a similar situation. I think you'd be safe if the campus is open, as long as you don't break anything. If it's not open, then it would be best to get permission or go somewhere else, lucky you found a place to go.

I'm no engineer, and this isn't exactly the answer, but the engineering toolbox should help a little. This explains a little bit what minor loss coefficients are, specifically look at those for inlets, and you'll kind of get an idea of what restricts air flow and what doesn't.

For example, If you are trying to broil water in order to cook pasta, you would not want to use a 4 gallon pot to broil 6 cups of water. There would be lots empty space that would time for the heat to fill. However, if you were to use a smaller pot, the water would broil faster due to the lesser volume of the pot which would allow it to get hotter faster. I am pretty sure that this example is true. If it is not a good example to use here, please notify me and I will remove it.

Yeah, bad example. Because specific heat is still the same and if anything it would boil faster in a bigger pot because it's shallow, meaning there's less pressure to overcome as the vapor pressure of the water at the bottom of the pot increases at the heat source. In short, I see no correlation to Nerf.

And as far as broiling water is concerned, you've been browsing Engrish.com for far too long.

Tape teflon tape around your cruddy o-ring until you have a solid seal. Continue this until you have a bit of teflon tape on the plunger rod. Wrap electrical tape over the teflon tape to ensure that the teflon tape does not fall of the o-ring. Teflon tape provide a very nice seal and has a relatively low coefficient of friction.

Ummm.... I'm not understanding this. What's the point of putting electrical tape over teflon? If you're covering up your teflon, you've just lost your low coefficient of friction.

With a little photoshop magic, I'm guessing this is how the CTF guns are going to work:

Read as: re-dressed nitefinder.

Also, I don't know why I'm excited about this, but I am:

Green taggers!

May I direct you here. This is my mod that I've had the most success with on a DTB, it sort of eliminates the need for an extra spring.

I posted this on NHQ a while back, but I guess I forgot to put it up here once I was validated.
NHQ Link in case you want to read the comments posted there, too.
EDIT: Changed some grammar here and there.




Materials:
-DTB/Hyperfire- I haven't seen the Hyperfire internals, but I assume they're exactly the same.
-Rotary Cutter-This is an absolute must for this mod, unless you're really skilled with a blade.
-epoxy
-thin metal rod
-rubber cement(optional)

1. First your standard air restrictor removal:


Now broken down:


2. While putting it back together, put a coat of rubber cement around the tip of each of the black barrel nubs and both sides of each orange ring. This gives you a cheap, easily removable, yet effective gasket to seal any leaks out the sides of the barrel. Then put the turret completely back together. Cover one end of each barrel with your finger and blow down the other, if you hear air coming out then you should have used better rubber cement or you didn't put it back together tightly enough.


Now for the original part. It's hard to see in the picture below, but there's a lot of dead space in that plunger. If you happen to have one with a white plunger tube, you'll easily see that when it's cocked the plunger head is only half way back. We're going to remedy that a bit.

Here are the internals:


The number to remember here is 1/2" that's how far back we're going to go. Even though it doesn't seem like a lot, that's what fits.

3. Start by marking 1/2" back on the shell where the slide should go. Do this on both sides.



Now cut along the lines (keep them straight). With a large cutting wheel it's not too hard to keep straight. Smaller cutting wheels may be a bit difficult.



Pop it out.


Smooth it out now by shaving down the rough edges. A razor blade really came in handy, but only after I took this picture.


4. Now you need your slide to come all the way back, too. Mark 1/2" on that bottom rail that fits in the groove of the shell below the hole you just cut. Cut the rail. Smooth it out. Do both sides.



5. Take your plunger, remove the catch and the spring. See the front of the indentation with the slope? Measure 1/2" forward from the top of the slope(as in measure from the purple line towards the plunger head) and make a new slope and a new indentation. This is a bit trickier than it looks.


You'll need to make some relief cuts for it to come out smoothly.


It should end up like this:


Now you'll want to reinforce it so it doesn't snap. I used a 1/8" steel rod available from Lowes. It took some coaxing (i.e. dremmelling) to get into those grooves. But once it was in, it stayed put just fine with some epoxy.
Since my rod was round, it needed shaved on the outside so it would fit back into the catch. Once you know it fits, take it back off and make sure you get the spring back on before you put it into your gun, I've done lame stuff like that before many times.


6.You're done. Put it back together and you're good. No one will ever know.



The nitty gritty...

I did this mod over a year ago and sold it on ebay. Back then I was a douchebag and was measuring my ranges angled and I claimed 90ft. I have since repented of my douchbaggery and I know that's not how ranges are measured. Since I no longer have the DTB in question, I can't test ranges. I'd guess somewhere between 40' and 50' flat.

I also later found that those ranges were because I had an excellent batch of loghomestore white foam that gave a tight fit in stock barrels without twisting. That stuff was legendary. I have since ordered two more batches and they've been way too fat.

Additionally, this mod could definitely use some more reinforcement, particularly the shell. Not only are you putting more air through the barrel by pulling the plunger farther back, that also compresses the spring to almost it's physical limit. I had planned to smooth over the plunger shaft, but it ended up that I left the original catch in the shaft. This allows you to cock it like normal, or give it more force and cock it farther back. I liked having that option. Sometimes, though, if I wasn't careful, the catch would slip.

In short, if I did this again I would:
-add padding to the plunger head
-add reinforcement to shell for the back of the spring
-add an extra catch spring
-measure range flat like a man, not angled like a douchebag
-do a barrel replacement, more air means it can handle more barrel. Plus eliminating dead space where those air restrictor springs used to be has always been on my mind when I mod turrets like this.

I hope you enjoyed this writeup, 'nuff said on my part.

Rather then contacting them for the item as a stand alone SKU you might try contacting the replacement parts department.

That's what I was thinking as well. I bought an MS from a thrift store, and it didn't have a clip with it. I tried to contact them via email about replacement parts, but I received no response.

Each account requires a separate email according to Ebay Policy.

The power of the PC and the Magstrike are quite similar.

So this means that a PC clip in a MS just doesn't get a good enough seal? Thanks for the info, cheesypiza.

Also thanks to nerfnerd for info on the reverse of what I was doing. I'm glad that this works the other way anyhow. Plus that's a pretty sweet outfit. Not to get off topic, but I'd love to see a write-up about how you made that.

Two questions for you:


1. I was kind of working on this the other way around. I put my PC clip into a MS, which simply requires a small notch cut in the shell of the MS for the ridge that goes down the side of the PC clip. My problem though is that the clip will advance, but it won't fire off any darts. Does the MS have significantly less power than the PC, or is the seal just not good enough.

2. What function does the E-tape have on the clips? I've read in FA_24's write up that it keeps the clips from dropping back down if you don't empty it. My PC clip doesn't do this in either blaster, though I don't have an actual MS clip to test this.

FA_24's suggestion was the first thing I thought of as well.

Perhaps you've already done this, but I'd say you should make up a set of differently weighted stefans and test them all.

I have a 2" set that I make. This includes one of each with 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 bb's and then one with 1/4" slingshot ammo. I mark them on the back of the dart with a sharpie as I make them.

Shoot all of them from the same position and then see which gets the best distance as you pick them up. I've found that with spring guns, 3 bb's works the best for me. Anything less fishtails like mad and anything more drops too early.

People say that higher power guns need heavier weights. I won't dispute this for airguns, but even my PETG BBB seems to work best with the 3 bb stefans.

I've never worked with fishing weights, so I can't say how they compare. But it can't hurt to throw those in the mix as well.

Snap, I was saving my first post for something good, something I could contribute.

But this warrants a farewell, and I'm deeply disappointed we never got a war going here or that I missed your BYU-I ones, but that's what happens when neither of us have much time. But it's for a good cause, so I commend you for doing it.

If you're ever anywhere near the Wasatch Front or if you get something going in Rexburg again, hit me up and I'll see if I can bring in a few extra people, you have my email. I bid you farewell and good luck, sir.