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#351212 Nerfers In Massachusetts?

Posted by popatachi on 28 January 2016 - 09:08 PM in Nerf Wars

I would be superstock




#349763 Who's still around from 2008/2009

Posted by popatachi on 30 November 2015 - 07:50 PM in Off Topic

I still lurk around now and then.




#349533 We're Back! Forum software upgraded and new features added.

Posted by popatachi on 20 November 2015 - 09:00 PM in News

Wow! A whole lot of upgrades and updates to the forum.  Looks great, Langley.




#347756 Help finding post on specific mod

Posted by popatachi on 08 July 2015 - 12:05 AM in Modifications

This one? http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=26084

Very cool mod. Reminds me of my 3k raider. I hope you found what you're looking for in your build.



#347750 Help finding post on specific mod

Posted by popatachi on 07 July 2015 - 08:33 PM in Modifications

That's not a lot to go on, but the only thing I could find is this thread from a snap.

http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=19880

I thought there was a way to search a history of your views, but only posts and threads. You could try to look through your browser history to see if the thread was saved there? Any idea of the user to did the mod?



#347748 Help finding post on specific mod

Posted by popatachi on 07 July 2015 - 08:05 PM in Modifications

Do you remember the blaster?



#347702 cpvc breech longshot

Posted by popatachi on 05 July 2015 - 10:34 PM in Modifications

As long as it works, it's a good build. The elites might help plug the seal, so to speak. If you're able to, try a different method to seal the two pipes if you want to tinker with it. But either way, good job.



#347700 cpvc breech longshot

Posted by popatachi on 05 July 2015 - 08:57 PM in Modifications

cpvc longshots. They are pretty fun to make. Sodizzle made one a long while back and I had done some work on what he had done.

Sodizzle's write up
http://nerfhaven.com...=1

My first attempt
http://nerfhaven.com...=1

My second attempt
http://nerfhaven.com...=1

Good job on your build.



#342019 N.E.N.O. 10 IT'S HERE!!!!

Posted by popatachi on 17 September 2014 - 07:54 PM in Nerf Wars

Put me down as a big maybe.



#339741 Organizing nerf war in new hampshire

Posted by popatachi on 23 June 2014 - 09:31 PM in Nerf Wars

There is a group that organizes wars in CT. If you haven't heard or read about the war, check out the NENO war thread for more details.



#337533 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 17 March 2014 - 08:45 PM in Modifications

Inspired from MiG's work with cutting boards, I decided to make a LS pump grip. See it in "action"

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#337051 Sodizzle Longshot v2

Posted by popatachi on 15 February 2014 - 12:02 AM in Modifications

A long time ago, I posted a version of the sodizzle breach. That version only worked with modded stefan clips. After that, I was able to acquire a Pak D clip where the darts are positioned in the center of the clip. That version was not able to use these center-aligned clips because the bolt wasn't able to travel far enough to clear the back of the dart.

In my cleaning, I found a longshot that I had intended to sodizzle. So I up and started in again and this time, was determined to make use of this Pak D clip. I won't go into detail about creating the sodizzle breach, but will explain what I've done specifically for this version. Please view some videos or a write-up to get more details on a sodizzle breach:

My sodizzle write-up
Sodizzle's video on his breach

Bolt
The bolt is really the tricky part. Once I got this measurement down, I adjusted the barrel to work with this length. This is really the part that you want to get working correctly before you determine the placement of your barrel. It has the usual 45 degree angle and is coned out to help with feeding. The lip of the bolt to the front of the plunger tube is 4.5" and probably another .5" that is embedded into the base of the bolt that is inside the plunger tube.

The bolt length may or may not affect the spring(s) that you are able to use as well. In my tinkering, I didn't have the plunger rod + spring when testing the length. When it was all assembled, I found the travel was off because of the spring, so keep that in mind if you are trying this out that you may have to tinker with this measurement based on your spring set up.

I am currently using a length of k18 spring.

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Barrel
For the barrel I used a 10" length of CPVC. I wasn't able to easily use the stock dart tooth as a ramp in this version because the barrel had to be moved further back. I used Maverick AR's as spacers to get the correct placement of the coupler and used a cut down version of the stock dart tooth (ramp) to help feed darts. The ramp is glued directly to the coupler. In order to have the barrel not move backwards, a spacer will be used at the front part of the barrel. Here I am using a length of 2k pump that will be glued in place. I had to completing afix the barrel in place, so I am thinking of using another method so that the barrel can be removed if needed.

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The seal of this is okay. It's not completely air tight around the coupler, but it's pretty close. I pondered attaching an o-ring within the coupler, but decided against it. Overall, this mod was to be able to work with the different clip, but I believe it will be able to work with both types of clips now. And apparently, I threw out the plunger head, so it's working with a make shift one at the moment. The seal is good, but hopefully I can find a stock replacement one soon.

Expanded and completed views
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Close up of barrel and bolt
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Close up of the front barrel
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This is definitely not the cleanest mod, but I believe it works well and this time I had a better sense of what I needed to accomplish.



#336864 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 04 February 2014 - 11:01 PM in Modifications

Found this LS that was cut up for a sodizzle breach and everyone pressured me into finishing it. ;)

Not yet finished, but functionally working.

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#335521 Game Types and Rules for Nerf Wars

Posted by popatachi on 17 November 2013 - 08:05 PM in General Nerf

Thanks for the feedback. I have a couple ways to make an easy prop to display who controls the point. Similar to what you linked to and a couple other ideas.

The idea about taking time off spawn time was a way to get more of a incentive to capture points and hopefully a way to get the game to end instead of stalling. I realize that it could be too complicated, but good to know that something similar had been tried before.

Maybe another type of incentive for capturing points but making it easier to remember so that it's mindless to all players. If you guys or anyone else have any ideas, I would love to hear them. Back to the drawing board.



#335467 Game Types and Rules for Nerf Wars

Posted by popatachi on 15 November 2013 - 11:59 PM in General Nerf

Are there any Nerf game types where the main objective is to capture points? I was going through my game library and came upon Dawn of War where you have to capture points throughout the map.

My thought was to have 5 points on the playing field. All 5 points need to be captured to win (I am not sure if this a realistic goal, but we'll go with it for now) or if one team, after the initial point is taken, has no points on the field.

- Two teams with infinite re-spawn and 15 re-spawn time.
- To capture a point, a team (1+) must count aloud to 5 and be next to a single point. (There must be some way to display which team has the point)
- For each point captured, that team gets one second (possibly two) off their re-spawn time.
- If team B takes a point away from team A and there are people from team A mid re-spawn, those people must go to another team A point to start their re-spawn.

At the start of the game, teams must capture their initial point on the field and continue with other points around the field. In order for a player to re-spawn, they must start their counting at any of their own team's points.

There should be a time limit (or maybe when 3 points are captured) on the game where, when the time expires, the game changes to 1 life (or maybe 3-15).

Is there anything similar or is this too complicated or has this been tried and didn't work out well?

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#334862 Painting

Posted by popatachi on 16 October 2013 - 08:02 PM in Modifications

Paint wear is normal for moving parts. The best thing is to avoid painting those areas. If you cannot avoid it (the blaster wouldn't look good) then you can really only minimize the wear. Felt between the plastic parts has been used. Clear coat over the paint to help protect against wear and chipping can help as well.

Chipping and wear is normal for areas with moving parts though the different types of paint may help to increase the time the paint stays. The dye gets fairly decent results where normal paint will sit on top of the plastic and is more prone to being chipped or worn off.

There's no perfect solution though. Good luck!



#327544 NDA Exclusive! New 2013 Nerf Mega Centurion

Posted by popatachi on 03 March 2013 - 02:35 PM in General Nerf

The new dart size is fine, but the size is too long and seems like it would be clumsy to wield. Especially trying to run around with it.



#326867 Doomsayer plunger head

Posted by popatachi on 15 February 2013 - 10:23 AM in Modifications

Venom also sells a rfsg plunger rod that will work with the stock plunger tube. It's $35 shipped which is a bit more expensive than getting the individual plunger head pieces, but it is an option if you're not able to acquire everything. Here's the thread, just scroll down and you should see it listed there.

Venom's Thread



#325039 My personal pic

Posted by popatachi on 03 January 2013 - 01:41 PM in Site Feedback

@quertyman: I don't know if you were aware of Google's site search. It's come up now and again, but you can perform searches much faster with Google than with NH's site search.

There's an old post that still applies on how to do it: Google Site Search

Anyway, hope that helps if you haven't tried that already.

Thanks for the fix, Langley!



#324845 Lock N' Load Returning Priming Slide Mod

Posted by popatachi on 28 December 2012 - 07:13 PM in Modifications

The replacement springs for a LnL are pretty limited, so nothing on this blaster will really be stressed to the point of breaking. The plunger tube is smaller than a nite finder's in both length and diameter. And yes, I believe the green slide already has a spot for a return spring.



#324842 Lock N' Load Returning Priming Slide Mod

Posted by popatachi on 28 December 2012 - 02:55 PM in Modifications

Very clean and great alternative to a key ring. Nice job!



#324338 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 10 December 2012 - 11:53 AM in Modifications

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My new superhero Longshot. With it's own silly introduction! video Intro Link



#324056 Need help!

Posted by popatachi on 01 December 2012 - 10:53 PM in Nerf Wars

There aren't a lot of local wars to Mass. But there is a small group from MA/CT trying to get some wars going. We are looking to get a winter war going, but there are no details at the moment. If there are any, I'll post details here. As for darts, you'll have to keep looking at trading threads to see if anyone sells any.



#324038 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 30 November 2012 - 11:50 PM in Modifications

Finally finished and painted. Just need to paint the trigger and make a speedloader barrel. The pump handle swivels around to act as a hand guard when not in use.

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#323515 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 12 November 2012 - 11:02 PM in Modifications

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camera rig.

Rig Explanation and Build
Test Video with rig



#323199 pSyk's "Auto-Loading" Rampage 3k + Vid

Posted by popatachi on 29 October 2012 - 07:50 PM in Modifications

Totally awesome Psyk! Great mod and tweak for this blaster!



#315478 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 09 May 2012 - 07:26 PM in Modifications

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Hornet pistol with big salvo tank.

Youtube Video



#314759 NJNO5

Posted by popatachi on 24 April 2012 - 01:03 PM in Nerf Wars

Hey all,

I'm still alive and slowly getting better. I ended up getting a concussion, a black-eye, a lot swelling on my face, multiple bruises/scratches and dizzy spells when I get up or lay down.

Regardless, it was a really fun war and when I'm able to, I'll compile the video that I took from the war... until then... spell and cold compresses!

Thanks everyone for the great turnout!



#314433 stefan stampede clip

Posted by popatachi on 16 April 2012 - 07:23 AM in Modifications

Excellent sgNerf!

And good point about tape! Although there must be a simple mechanical way to hold everything together... I'll have to think on that more.



#314423 stefan stampede clip

Posted by popatachi on 15 April 2012 - 11:16 PM in Modifications

The brass is not glued to the clip. The hole at the bottom of the clip is the same size as the brass so is a very tight fit and the tube doesn't move or slide out. Essentially, pressure fit.



#314419 stefan stampede clip

Posted by popatachi on 15 April 2012 - 10:55 PM in Modifications

This may be more or less common knowledge, so excuse me if I'm late to the party. Here's how I thought about creating a stampede clip that will allow you to use stefans and still have it able to use stock darts without opening up the clip. This is essentially a slight variation on the same mod as done by WicketTheModder619.

NOTE: This method can work on a 6-dart clip, but you need to determine where the center coil is located and put the post on the other side of the clip. This may mean that you must reverse the clip (cut off the top tab and add a clip lock slot on the opposite side of the clip) in order to use the clip in your blasters.

The Youtube Video

MATERIALS:
  • 7/32" brass tube or compatible rod/tube (longer than a stampede clip ~ 11")
  • ~1/2" length of a pen (this will act as a sleeve to the above tube)
  • paper clip
  • stampede clip
  • #6 or #8 washer or something compatible

TOOLS:
  • drill or drill press
  • round file
  • 7/32" bit or one that will fit the size you have
  • pin vice or bit that is small enough for a paper clip
  • glue

ANOTHER NOTE: long ago when placing an order for brass tube, I accidentally ordered 7/32" tubes instead of 17/32". Years later, I'm glad that I kept them around.

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Step 1: Prepare the clip

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You will want something to slide and hold the dart pusher all the way down at the bottom of the clip. I had a piece of plastic tubing, but anything will do. With that securely in place, drill a tiny hole through the shell and dart pusher. For this I use a pin vice or a hobby hand-drill with a small bit. Either way, the hole should only be wide enough to allow a straightened paper clip through. This will lock the dart pusher in place.

Alternatively, if you have a method to secure the dart pusher in place without having to drill the hole, you can do that too.

Step 2: Drill it!

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Mark the location for the post. The location would be the same spot where you would normally glue the side rails allowing for your darts to rest comfortably. Make sure to use the same diameter bit as your rod/tube. You will want the shell hole to have a snug fit where the dart pusher hole will need to be widened to accept the sleeve. Either way, drill through the shell and dart pusher.

Step 3: Add a sleeve

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(This sleeve is fairly clear and a little hard to make out)

Release the dart pusher and insert the rod through the bottom of the shell and prop up the dart pusher so that it cannot slip down. With this secured, widen the hole in the dart pusher to accept the sleeve. Make sure that the sleeve that you choose will allow the rod/tube to easily slide. This should not be a snug fit at all. Once the sleeve is in place, secure it will glue and file/sand the top of the dart pusher.

Step 4: Cutting of the tube

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Set the dart pusher to the lowest point with the side of the clip. This is where you will want to set the top of the tube/rod. Since this is the point where the dart tooth/barrel will be resting (hence why you need the sleeve). Once that location is set, mark the tube where the excess is sticking out of the bottom of the clip. Cut this excess off and glue a washer on.

Step 5: All Done!

Insert the rod and now you have a stefan/stock stampede clip all without having to chop the clip open. Enjoy!

The Youtube Video



#313761 Foam backer Rod

Posted by popatachi on 30 March 2012 - 10:02 PM in Darts and Barrels

I know people have found beige foam online, but you could paint the back of the darts a bright color to help you find them. It would save you in trying to find a supplier and only add the cost of the paint.



#313238 NJNO5

Posted by popatachi on 20 March 2012 - 08:55 PM in Nerf Wars

Put me down as a maybe

I'm now confirmed to be able to go! Can I buy darts from anyone attending? PM me if so.

Also looking for a titan pump if anyone has one to sell.



#312934 RFSG Help- rotation mech

Posted by popatachi on 16 March 2012 - 07:37 AM in Modifications

The RFSG barrels don't fit any stock darts or stefans so the range will be horrible until you replace the barrels with a better material (petg, cpvc, brass).

You need to have a pushnut fastner or something there to keep the rotation mech and turret seated together. There is probably too much room for the mech to separate from the turret and causing it to not rotate.

Once you fix those, you might as well fix the turret/plunger tube seal and put in a better spring combo to take advantage of the other mods.



#309807 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 19 January 2012 - 08:47 PM in Modifications

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Contract blasters all finished!

Youtube Video



#309300 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 09 January 2012 - 12:39 AM in Modifications

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Contract Lock n' Load



#307966 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 01 December 2011 - 08:37 PM in Modifications

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Contract finished! Video Overview



#307110 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by popatachi on 07 November 2011 - 09:02 PM in Modifications

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Shorty Maverick Youtube video



#306691 Mav Paintjob Issues

Posted by popatachi on 29 October 2011 - 08:29 PM in Modifications

It's been a while, but I believe that primer is a little bit textured so that it will adhere to the top layer of paint better. You could spray on a black paint on top of that and then your olive coat. And to get a good solid color, you will need to spray on multiple coats since you are spraying on black. But someone can correct any inaccurate statements I have made.



#306530 Shorty Maverick

Posted by popatachi on 25 October 2011 - 09:02 PM in Modifications

This was done just for fun. The number one goal was just to minimize the blaster, if it worked, that was awesome. Performance had nothing to do with the mod.