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#267232 The Lab, By Split

Posted by Darth Tom on 27 February 2010 - 03:13 PM in Homemades

Whether it's "unfinished" or not depends on the goal I guess. If you intended to make a complete lever action blaster, then "unfinished" isn't too far off. If the objective was to prove the lever action concept, then it's finished.

In the grand scheme of things, I think it's unfinished. I mean, isn't the ultimate goal always something you can shoot someone with easily?

Anyway, to keep this from being a worthless post about semantics, I think to have the most fun with this, great ROF would be necessary. Something high capacity, so you can use the lever action over and over without fumbling with darts. Watching the way you fire it in the video, an RSCB looks like it would be extremely natural. The way you held it while using the lever already turned the barrel downward and shook it a bit, making reloading effortless.

I assume that the spring strength is causing you to prime it that way?



#264939 The Lab, By Split

Posted by Darth Tom on 10 February 2010 - 04:11 PM in Homemades

Are the spikes on the top integral to the design? I liked the concept, but it seems confusing and wonky to use in a battle. Not to ask too much, but could you post a video? Thanks.

I think he has a point. I mean, who could possibly guess why an unfinished, partially designed homemade would be confusing and "wonky" to use in a battle? You definitely need to post a video, because pictures and text clearly cannot convey the fact that it's unfinished and incomplete, making it unusable in the exact state shown.

I remember when people who were around for ~ 2 years could understand words.



#248459 Why Brass And Not Copper?

Posted by Darth Tom on 24 August 2009 - 08:51 PM in General Nerf

Copper has an internal diameter that is too large for 99% of foam. It comes in 1/4" increments. Brass, on the other hand, comes in increments of 1/32", allowing a more custom fit for foam. Most foams fit either 17/32" or 9/16" brass.

If he asks why it can't be loose, that is because air will move around the dart. You need a comfortably tight fit for springers to build up pressure. Air guns should have loose barrels, but not so much that darts fall out, just for convenience reasons.

Copper is also pretty damn expensive.

Edit: Well, this post is pretty much pointless now, too late to the party. I'll leave it anyway.



#246873 Did I Screw My Self...

Posted by Darth Tom on 13 August 2009 - 12:49 PM in Modifications

You screwed yourself the moment you thought you had enough experience to mess with the innards of a Vulcan.



#245997 Good Things Happen When You Go To Church...

Posted by Darth Tom on 07 August 2009 - 04:56 PM in General Nerf

You're not plugging the pump, so don't even unscrew the shell. Just take a hacksaw/band saw/etc to the barrels, leave one inch stubs, remove the restrictive bits, and throw the CPVC in there. Sand down the inside of the stock barrels with a dremel if it doesn't fit.

I've never CPVC'd a 2k, but it can't be that much harder than the PETG ones I've done. 7 might take two hours, no biggie.



#245487 Minnesota Dart Factory Day

Posted by Darth Tom on 04 August 2009 - 04:53 PM in Darts and Barrels

As for flourescent paint, go to Michaels, or A.C. Moore. It's $5 for a small bottle, but nobody should pay that price. Go to A.C. Moore's website > store locator > coupons. You'll get either 40% or 50% off one item, good for a certain period of time. Michaels accepts A.C. Moore coupons as well.



#245337 Kung Fu Panda Commander Crossbow Barrel Replacement

Posted by Darth Tom on 03 August 2009 - 05:57 PM in Modifications

You can always thread on a spring with a larger diameter than the stock one. And even though it's tedious, you can get the spring off. Just dremel off a half coil at a time.



#245077 Big Salvo - Firefly Internal Transplant

Posted by Darth Tom on 01 August 2009 - 09:08 PM in Modifications

This is one of the few times that you should actually use hot glue. It would still allow you to remove the internals with a bit of tugging.



#244941 Tech Target Coupler Mod

Posted by Darth Tom on 31 July 2009 - 08:45 PM in Modifications

It's the other way around. Pipe OD is always the same, it is the ID that changes. This way, fittings work regardless of whether you are using Thinwall PVC or normal PVC. The inside changes based on Nominal Pipe Size. Schedule 20 is what most people refer to as "Thinwall" PVC, Sch. 40 is the normal stuff most commonly used, and Sch. 80 is the dark grey pipe with the thickest walls. (Well, the thickest walls I've ever seen used in Nerf, Sch. 120 exists.)

This also means that Sch. 20 has the most room inside of it, which allows the nesting of CPVC in most cases. Hopefully this provides some understanding.

Here's the Wikipedia article on Nominal Pipe Size.
http://en.wikipedia....minal_Pipe_Size



#243636 Guess The Amount.

Posted by Darth Tom on 24 July 2009 - 05:25 PM in Off Topic

99.99 CAD



#243449 Some Interesting Air Gun Finds

Posted by Darth Tom on 23 July 2009 - 10:29 PM in General Nerf

Got three of the pumps the other day, and have to say I'm happy with them. They had some air leaks around where the black part meets the green part on the check valve side. Some Zap a Gap made it airtight enough. With some light dremel work, the pump fits very well into the Hornet area on the bottom of a Titan. Color matches the Hulk type very well.



#242894 At3k Pump Replacement?

Posted by Darth Tom on 20 July 2009 - 06:03 PM in Modifications

I've found a couple alright check valves at an auto parts store. There are always plenty of small size tubing connectors and tees too, they're for wiper fluid lines. It's not too odd if you think about it - plenty of fluids going through a car.



#242760 At3k Pump Replacement?

Posted by Darth Tom on 19 July 2009 - 06:03 PM in Modifications

You'll have to really search to find a check valve at a normal store. An auto parts store would be a good place to look. I personally get mine on eBay. Cheap and easy.



#242682 Buna N Vs. Fluorelastomer Seat

Posted by Darth Tom on 19 July 2009 - 01:33 PM in Homemades

Get either, it doesn't really matter. Assuming you're using the check valves to check air for Nerf purposes, of course. If you're shooting chemicals through for whatever reason, you might want to delve deeper into the properties of the two types. For air, they'll both be perfectly fine. Get the cheaper one.



#242550 Dart Tag 3k

Posted by Darth Tom on 18 July 2009 - 12:16 PM in Modifications

Any particular reason why you had the ~2" of brass connecting the tank to the turret? If you just moved the tank up 2" and then added an o-ring on the end for a seal, not only would you see much better range but you'd also have more room to try a different pump configuration that doesn't hang out the back.



#242084 Silencing A Crossfire

Posted by Darth Tom on 15 July 2009 - 03:28 PM in Modifications

Along with the rest, make sure your spring is as long as the plunger rod. Don't want a spring rattling to ruin your "stealth".



#240501 At2k Pvc

Posted by Darth Tom on 06 July 2009 - 06:18 PM in Modifications

The easiest way to end all of your problems is to get with the program and make some Stefans. You're already on a Nerf forum, just accept that you're going to get to that point anyway, and make some sooner rather than later. Since they'll be properly weighted, they won't fishtail as much.

You can always start with CDTS. Just search for "CDTS" and you'll probably find all the information you need to know.

Wait, just checked out your post again.. 2 1/2" barrels? That's why they fishtail. Too much power behind it. The problem is, either they won't fit in a proper 6" barrel because they're Taggers or Sonics, or they're naturally flighty because they're Streamlines.

Go for some CDTS. You won't regret it. You can get to the Stefans later.



#240406 At2k Pvc

Posted by Darth Tom on 06 July 2009 - 11:51 AM in Modifications

Stock foam works great in CPVC. Just because he said he used PVC doesn't mean you have to - use a barrel material that works for your darts. In this case, that would be 17/32" Brass, or CPVC. Maybe heavy wall PETG. CPVC will be a lot easier for you to work with. The only way I can explain him being able to fit 1/2" PVC on the turret would be a lot of dremel work.



#239274 Pistol Tek 10

Posted by Darth Tom on 29 June 2009 - 05:33 PM in Modifications

Do 6" barrels on it. The simple logic is that brass and petg come in 1 ft sections. This way, you get 2 barrels per section. If it can't handle the 6" ones, just cut an inch of the ends and use it for dart holders. At least this way won't waste 2" and find that you ended up needing it.



#238600 Quick Question: Linking Trigger

Posted by Darth Tom on 25 June 2009 - 06:15 PM in Modifications

You said that the coat hanger would bend? In that case, I'd say get some much thicker metal rod, and use that. Just thick enough that it won't bend under use, but you can still bend it using a vice.



#235894 +bow: Diy Thread

Posted by Darth Tom on 12 June 2009 - 07:07 PM in Homemades

Just to be sure, seeing as you're posting in this thread, are you planning on using Lexan for the +bow? Don't. It's just a brand of plexiglass more or less, and isn't nearly as strong as polycarbonate.



#235306 Weight Of Plunger Rod Materials?

Posted by Darth Tom on 09 June 2009 - 08:01 PM in Homemades

What you are proposing would not be very secure, especially with the spring he's planning on using.


It's not hard to make things secure. JB Weld can hold pretty well on its own, considering it's made to adhere dissimilar metals. Any standoff would probably be steel anyway. I've had JB Weld holding brass to aluminum on my Angel Breech for quite some time now, and it hasn't budged at all. Sure, the spring is less than he probably wants to use, but brass is also horrible with adhesives.

If JB Weld failed, which I imagine it could with 30lbs of spring, there's still hardware to consider. Drill a hole through the rod and the standoff sideways, and JB Weld a smaller piece of Aluminum in there, or use a nut and bolt.

It's really not difficult, unless he thinks he's going to be able to use something with much more than 30lbs of spring.


Also, on an unrelated note to this issue, it could easily be a sprinkler spring. It's not crazy to say it fell out of a trash can (where a dead sprinkler head belongs) and onto the street during pickup.



#235302 Longshot Replacement Springs?

Posted by Darth Tom on 09 June 2009 - 07:48 PM in Modifications

You have springs. You have the Longshot. I assume you have a screwdriver - most people do.

Novel idea. Maybe you could try different combinations and see what works for YOU.



#234509 Ls Quick Open Mod

Posted by Darth Tom on 05 June 2009 - 05:30 PM in Modifications

It seems to me that if you really are so lazy that you can't take the screws out of a gun, you should've just left 9 screws in there. Much simpler.



#232875 X Men Origins: Wolverine

Posted by Darth Tom on 27 May 2009 - 05:44 PM in Off Topic

I honestly never expected it to hold true to any of the comics. I went in pretending it was one of the old Marvel "What If?" comics, grounded in some canon backround.

With that in mind, I thoroughly enjoyed it. I like Wolverine, I like people getting cut up by Wolverine, so it was good.

I think X3 prepared me for this. So, all Marvel movies are little one shots for me now. It'll soften the blow when they make Captain America a mutant, or Thor some Scandinavian teenager who gained his powers from a radioactive stick of gum. I'll be ready then.



#232646 Weight Of Plunger Rod Materials?

Posted by Darth Tom on 26 May 2009 - 03:55 PM in Homemades

The obvious solution here is to use an aluminum tube. If you can get solid aluminum for a plunger rod, you can get one that is hollow. At that point, you just need to find a standoff and a screw size that works with it, and put the standoff in the middle of the rod. Apply some JB Weld to keep it in place.



#231890 Nerf Crossbow Help

Posted by Darth Tom on 22 May 2009 - 04:21 PM in Modifications

Check your dart and barrel fit.



#228321 Spackling Instead Of Bondo?

Posted by Darth Tom on 05 May 2009 - 04:13 PM in General Nerf

The plumbers putty I've dealt with in the past has dried, albeit not rock solid. The epoxy putty I mentioned is really what you want for this kind of situation, but I still think that plumbers putty would work in a pinch, or if you didn't feel like dropping $40 on 4 lbs of epoxy.

The flexibility of the plumbers putty might facilitate paint chipping, which would be the major downside. If that was a problem, a thin layer of spackling/bondo would probably do the job. You could then sand it down and have a somewhat viable solution. At least you wouldn't be pouring spackling in a space you were trying to fill, and trying to create walls so it doesn't all just run out the sides.



#228312 Spackling Instead Of Bondo?

Posted by Darth Tom on 05 May 2009 - 03:47 PM in General Nerf

I'm not a big fan of using anything too goopy to do any sculpting work.

Apoxie Sculpt is some amazing stuff. It's a two part epoxy clay that dries to a very hard/strong consistency.
You can read up on it here. I wouldn't buy it from them though. eBay's a bit cheaper and just less of a hassle.
http://www.avesstudi...xie_sculpt.html

Alternatively, something like plumbing putty should do the job for cosmetics. I just don't understand how anyone could find something as runny as bondo to be suitable when there's plenty of clay like substances out there that'll do the job much easier.

Edit: Conistency? No.



#219685 Very Cheap Fbr

Posted by Darth Tom on 24 March 2009 - 07:51 PM in Homemades

I noticed that you didn't include 9/16 brass in your review. How come you didn't? If you do have any 9/16 brass please write what it's size fitting is good for.

~nrg


9/16 is exactly between 17/32 and 19/32. This means that we can easily and safely infer that the fit in 9/16 is between "tight" and "heavenly", probably in the slightly tight to good fit zone. You don't need to be Sherlock Holmes to come to this deduction...



#218335 What Can I Ship With?

Posted by Darth Tom on 16 March 2009 - 07:49 PM in Off Topic

I know you ruled out modularity, but ti can be done easily and sturdily.

A possible system could be foam coated PVC. Use threaded couplers, maybe one by the head of the hammer and one half way down the shaft. This would greatly reduce the overall size, and maintain the structural integrity of the piece. If the 6' of pipe flexes too much, you could nest a smaller size of pipe inside. Have a slip coupler on the inside pipe, and threaded on the outside. This way, you could still connect the inner piece of pipe while threading the outside on.

Another possibility would be to just reason it out with the customer. You can pay $70 to have it shipped in one piece, or I can ship it in 3 for $30, and you can invest in a $3 can of PVC cement. Either way, he's paying.



#216204 A Little Help

Posted by Darth Tom on 03 March 2009 - 10:00 PM in General Nerf

When was it ever suggested that Hasbro gave things away to us? It's my impression that the extent of Hasbro's involvement has been attending a few wars. They showed up, they talked to people, that's it. I don't know where you got the idea of freebies from.



#215964 My Snap Bow =)

Posted by Darth Tom on 02 March 2009 - 05:47 PM in Homemades

If it's hitting reliably over 100ft, it can probably handle 12 inches of barrel.



#215961 Where To Buy At2k's

Posted by Darth Tom on 02 March 2009 - 05:37 PM in General Nerf

Big Lots and Kohls are about the only place that carry them now.



#215953 Quick Question

Posted by Darth Tom on 02 March 2009 - 05:19 PM in General Nerf

"What size brass fits Frost King foam?"

No. You have it all wrong. You find a barrel size FIRST. Then, you find a steady source of foam that works with that size. Frost King? This is not the foam you are looking for.



#215744 Titan Rocket Ammo

Posted by Darth Tom on 01 March 2009 - 01:47 PM in General Nerf

The air release holes on a Titan rocket don't affect performance, for the record. They're there so the front can deflate on impact, lessening the blow. If they weren't there, it'd be like getting hit by solid plastic.

Edit: Didn't see the date. Just assumed it was another person claiming they found something "new". Oh well - my apologies.



#214767 A Few Shots Of My Order For The Release Of The Ps3 Game Operation Flas

Posted by Darth Tom on 24 February 2009 - 08:31 PM in General Nerf

I don't really mind his new topics - it's nice to see something new every once in a while. Though, if you wanted to quell all the naysayers out there, you could just start a single topic of your own. "Naija Blue's Nerf Props", or something to that effect, and just update it when you have new pics and so on. I don't think anyone could get annoyed at that.



#214763 The Sneak Shot

Posted by Darth Tom on 24 February 2009 - 08:28 PM in Modifications

I think the Sneak Shot is a nifty little gun. I've always liked how it looked, and knowing it has potential, I might keep an eye out for one. 69 feet isn't anything to laugh at, especially since this would be a novelty only for me.

And as far as this goes..

P.S. stop it with the grammar stuff if you guys wanna be critics go into the movie buisness (i spelled that wrong i know it).


Tell that to the administration. See what happens.



#213844 Marvelous Salvo Pressurization Questions

Posted by Darth Tom on 20 February 2009 - 11:18 PM in Modifications

Before you go do anything, make sure he's not talking about a Magstrike Bladder.



#213838 Roto Rocket Mod

Posted by Darth Tom on 20 February 2009 - 11:10 PM in Modifications

Just wait until you get the Roto Rocket. It makes much more sense that way. You can take a barrel diameter measurement of the RR, and go to the hardware store. Bring it if you want. Then, you can see what size couplers/PVC fit over the stock barrel. I would e-tape the stock barrel until a size of PVC fit over it snugly, and then put a PVC coupler on the end. This would be a pretty sturdy setup. Then, you can e-tape whatever barrel material you use, put it in some PVC, and put your barrel in the coupler.

A shotgun attachment would be wise, if you ever intend to shoot this at someone. You'll probably never be able to use it at a war, but among friends it would probably slide. You should only ever use the singled barrel for seeing how many cans you can shoot through, if the dart even survives.