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#318279 N-Strike vs Vortex

Posted by SpectreX on 10 July 2012 - 03:48 PM in General Nerf

Seems relevant to the discussion, but NM&R shared a video which pits the new NSE Retaliator against a Lumitron representing the Vortex line. The video shows both blasters fired flat from the same position in slightly breezy "real world" outdoor conditions. The quality is ok, but not great (I would know I made the video), but it should be decent video evidence to base opinions on.



#300824 Orange Mod Works Kit Reviews

Posted by SpectreX on 30 June 2011 - 06:18 PM in General Nerf

So is this kit worth getting for someone like me who can't mod a recon very well at all?


Only if you're also going to get the Stage 2 kit as well. To make a good use of the Stage 1 kit, you need to take out the air restrictors. The Stage 2 kit has a metal plunger/bolt that you just drop in to replace the stock piece, so no real modding ability is necessary to get good results.



#300034 Orange Mod Works Kit Reviews

Posted by SpectreX on 17 June 2011 - 02:29 PM in General Nerf

LS kits for example could really be significant.


They have announced that they'll be putting out a LS "Immortal" kit, but no information about what it will have in it. However, they have announced that it will come in a collectors tin, so that probably means the pricing will be more of a premium than the Recon kits. It will be interesting to see what of the Longshot they decide to make out of metal.



#299850 Orange Mod Works Kit Reviews

Posted by SpectreX on 14 June 2011 - 10:57 AM in General Nerf

To be fair, OMW's products aren't aimed at the modding community, because modders can already get exceptional ranges out of their blasters. They're HvZ players making products aimed at HvZ players. There's a market out there for these products, and props to them for actually making a serious business out of Nerf modding. I just hope that Hasbro doesn't shut them down.

Besides modding, I'm also a HvZer, so I decided to get the OMW Recon kits to see if they were as good as their claims and worth recommending to other HvZers. I've got the Stage 1 kit installed on a Recon that only has the air restrictors out and the results are impressive. However, I think it'll be the Stage 2 kit that will really be a game changer, but I'll have to wait until it's released at the end of the month to say for sure. In theory, with the Stage 2 kit anyone with a screwdriver and a couple minutes to kill can suddenly go from a stock blaster to an optimized breach setup. No messing around with air restrictors/air release holes/o-rings, just open it up, take the stock parts out, drop in the OMW parts, and close it up.

If you're a modder it definitely takes the fun out of making it yourself, but for HvZ players and lesser skilled modders it allows them to get quick effective results as long as you're willing to pay for it (prices are incredibly reasonable for the results you get).



#287026 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests

Posted by SpectreX on 16 October 2010 - 03:26 PM in Modifications

The Stampede may have to be chalked up to gremlins or I had missed something major ( <--- probably this), because of course it starts working fine once I ask the question. I ran through or already had run through everything you said and I'm posting the answers just incase this happens to someone else.

I'd have to ask a rather obvious question just to narrow down the causes, did you place the batteries in the battery holder with their polarities facing the right way in the beginning? Yes And were the wires from the battery connected to the correct polarity contacts in the battery sled? Yes

Have you tested using AA to D battery converter shells instead? Did you encounter the same "need to be reversed then work" issue? I had tried it and it had the same issue at the time, but works fine now.

Do you have a volt multimeter with polarity indicator? If so, test the polarity of your TrustFire batteries, put the red test lead at the + tip of the battery and the black lead to the - tip of the battery, does it show the voltage without a "-" symbol next to the voltage reading? All of the polarities on the Trustfires are correct, and I tested a regular AA right after for comparison just incase I had the wires backwards, but it's all fine.

Any chance you can exchange your current Stampede with a new one at the store, or test the batteries in someone elses Stampede and see if the phenomenon still occurs? I did the draw-catch battery compartment mod already, so returning it may be problematic. However, aside from the auto-run it's working properly, so I think it'll be ok.

I'm quite curious 'cos you mention that you also face the same issue with your Powerstrike 48, which could indicate some sort of mis-matched polarities in the batch of batteries that you happen to be using too. I'm not sure what the deal with this was, but I fixed it by opening up where the motors are and swapping the wires at the motors. I don't know why reversed batteries and reversed motor wires work, when just regularly inserted batteries wouldn't (AA's would work but the 14500s wouldn't). Maybe there was a contact issue I didn't diagnose with the batteries inserted the normal way. In any event, it works great all modded up now, so I won't worry about it.




#286942 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests

Posted by SpectreX on 14 October 2010 - 10:31 AM in Modifications

Once again I have a question for those who know more about electrical systems than I do.

Why are the unprotected Trustfire 14500s only working in battery powered blasters when they are inserted backwards?

I am using an identical setup to SgNerf where I have 4 of the 14500s in a 4-AA holder that is alligator clipped to the inside of the battery tray for the Stampede. If I have the connections hooked up so that the current is running the same way that it would with just the regular D-cells nothing happens when I pull the trigger. All you can hear is the internals twich slightly, but nothing else happens.

However, if I simply swap where the clips are connected it runs fine aside from having the auto-run problem, which I think may be at least partially caused by the current being run through the blaster in the reverse from normal.


I have observed essentially the same problem in the Power Strike 48. Putting 14500s in the normal way causes nothing to happen when you hit the power switch, but if you put them in backwards the motors come on like they should. However, the motors are of course running in the reverse direction in that case, so instead of firing you just get mangled darts.


Anyone have any insights as to what the deal is? I have double and triple checked the voltage/current with my multimeter. If we can figure out how to make the Stampede work with increased voltage running the correct way through the blaster it might completely solve the auto-run issue.



#286444 Is A Big Bad Bow Spring To Stong For A Stock Longshot Boltsled?

Posted by SpectreX on 02 October 2010 - 06:45 PM in Modifications

Well there's a difference between adding a BBB spring and replacing with a BBB spring. The two Longshots I have use only BBB springs in them and I've had no problems with breaking or stress damage without using reinforcement. If you are adding a BBB spring to the stock spring that is most likely too much to be used regularly without reinforcing.

In either event, just reinforce it with any of the methods people have mentioned if you're worried about it breaking. It's probably worth the time and effort put into it.



#286261 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by SpectreX on 29 September 2010 - 06:44 PM in Modifications

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I'm sorry about the picture quality, not sure what happened there. After I did this mod it gave me other ideas about frankensteining, and this is the result. We've got a Longshot with an internal shotgun grip utilizing the grip from the Deploy. It's got a SgNerf style brass breach, and the internal shotgun grip linkage was based heavily on this design.



#285419 Stampede Problems

Posted by SpectreX on 14 September 2010 - 09:09 PM in Modifications

i'm sorry i might just be stupid, but by slide cover do you mean that piece of plastic that screw over the the plunger system to keep it from popping out?


I believe he's referring to the "Access" cover that you open if you want to clear a jam. It has to be perfectly closed or it trips a safety, and it's very easy to not get it put back in quite right when you're reassembling.



#285351 Nerf Stampede - Mod Guide!

Posted by SpectreX on 13 September 2010 - 12:34 PM in Modifications

Awesome, thank you for the thorough response, because the batteries I had in mind were specifically the 3.7V Protected TrustFire ones.



#285330 Nerf Stampede - Mod Guide!

Posted by SpectreX on 12 September 2010 - 05:23 PM in Modifications

Such batteries can be installed in the original Stampede battery sled without additional modification, simply use AA or 2AA to D-battery converters, or use multi-slot AA battery holders.

Posted Image


I'm still debating over different battery replacement options, but after doing more research the 14500s seem to offer the best value and ease of installation. However, I had a couple questions regarding the different battery holders.

In the quoted picture there's a 1AA-to-D converter on the left and a 2AA-to-D converter on the top. Now to get the voltages described I believe the four 14500s used in this mod are being run in serial? From my understanding the 2AA-to-D converters are running those two batteries in parallel to achieve a larger capacity at the same voltage. This means that to be getting the correct voltage with the 2AA converters one would need a total of 8 of the 14500s, but the advantage that being connected in 4S4P you would essentially be getting a capacity 1800mAh instead of 900mAh?

So in summary:

Using 1AA-to-D converters you would need four 14500 batteries and you would be getting ~16V and 900mAh.
Using 2AA-to-D converters you would need eight 14500 batteries resulting in ~16V and 1800mAh?

Also, is there any advantage to using the unprotected 14500s that you have as opposed to ones with a built in PCB?

I just wanted to check on this before making any purchases.



#285226 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests

Posted by SpectreX on 10 September 2010 - 12:08 PM in Modifications

I think that should work fine, since the current draw is only like 1.7A max. Pretty expensive, though. You might be better off trying to buy 4 of those 18650 batteries and put them in a holder. Probably would be a lot cheaper.


Yeah, if I go with this kind of setup that's exactly what I was thinking of doing. A four pack of Tenergy 18650s from Amazon is about half the price of that pre-built pack. It was just easier to link to something that had all of the numbers summed up already. Glad to know this setup should work.



#285208 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests

Posted by SpectreX on 09 September 2010 - 11:23 PM in Modifications

Hey, I don't really have any electrical engineering experience, but I've been keeping up with this thread and looking around online for an ideal battery replacement that will be; lighter than 6 D-cells, run at ~15-16v like SG says has been working well, and have a high capacity.

This is what I've found. I wouldn't necessarily be buying this specific one, but would something like this do the trick? I was figuring I'd hook the leads up to a tamiya connector for putting it in the Stampede. Is this feasible, or is it a serious fire hazard?



#281900 Is The Nerf Tactical Vest Worth The $30?

Posted by SpectreX on 02 August 2010 - 09:25 PM in General Nerf

I'm planning on getting one once they finally show up in stores here. If no one has answered questions about it at that point I'll make sure to report in.



#281404 Are The Clear Blasters Faulty?

Posted by SpectreX on 27 July 2010 - 06:12 PM in General Nerf

I've had the opposite experience with my clear Mavericks. They've generally out performed my blue ones by ~5 feet. However, those are the "Limited Edition" ones from the black boxes and not "Clear Series" Mavericks. I'll have to get around to unboxing my clear Nfs to test them versus a regular one.

**EDIT**

Ok, so I just took out one of my clear Nfs and unboxed a yellow one I bought recently and had sitting around. Both fresh out of the box the performance is pretty much identical. Honestly though, with the Nf in particular, if you've got another one that works better you could always just drop those internals into the pretty clear shell.



#280971 Stampede Official Nerf Demo Coverage

Posted by SpectreX on 22 July 2010 - 03:07 PM in General Nerf

Go get it early guys, those are the Target numbers for it. Use the DPCI number. I'd get it myself, but I need the money for a church camp I'm attending.


Maybe not just yet. I had a bunch of time to kill today, so I did the rounds to see what I could find in stores. For reference I'm in Buffalo, NY, so stores in your area might be different. However, I can report that it would seem no Stampedes have been shipped to stores here yet.

If you're going to a Target it's really easy to check what they have in stock without dealing with a person. Just find one of those barcode scanners they have in the aisles for price checking. It should have number buttons running down the side, and you can type in the DPCI number and have it check that store's inventory. The none Target stores I went to had any in stock, but the screen does come up with "Nerf Stampede $49.99" when you enter the DPCI number.

Toys R' Us is a little more tricky because they don't seem to have a way for you to check for yourself without assistance. I got lucky and ran into an employee roughly my age who likes to put car batteries into Power-Wheels, so he found the concept of Nerf modding cool and he was more than happy to help me out. He not only checked in the back room of the store I was in, but he also had the lady at the customer service desk use their inventory computer to check all of the stores in the Buffalo area. Nada. You'll want the numbers from this page (specifically the listed "item number" 460315) if you're going hunting at Toys R' Us, and their computers say they have it for $54.99.

I think people being able to order them off the Toys R' Us website for a few hours the other day must be based upon distribution warehouse stock if they're not just bsing completely, because I've seen at least one person claiming that theirs shipped

Happy Hunting, but I think it might not be worth looking for a few weeks yet.



#280951 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by SpectreX on 22 July 2010 - 11:26 AM in Modifications

I didn't see a post in this thread about it, but for those looking for brass online for decent prices Amazon.com now carries "Small Parts" brand brass tubing which is compatible with K&S, and even better is that it is eligible for Amazon's shipping discounts (I'm getting free 2-day shipping with Amazon Prime).

The pricing is good ($7.72 for a 17/32 3-pack), and they seem to have a wide selection of options as far as purchasing either one-foot or three-foot lengths in either three or six packs. I have personally purchased and used 17/32 and 9/16 from here and mixed it in with my leftover K&S for things like Angel breaches and had no issues.

The only thing for people not as familiar with brass is make sure you're ordering the stuff that has 0.014" wall, because that is the right size if you're going to be mixing with K&S. The link I put in above is for the 3-pack of 17/32 one-foot.



#280202 Humans Vs Zombies Recommended Weapons

Posted by SpectreX on 14 July 2010 - 09:00 AM in General Nerf

You're going to want to have a couple of load outs at your disposal depending on whether you're running around by yourself going to classes, or if you're going to be in large groups doing missions. You'll want a light load for running and more firepower for missions. Here's what I've used, to generally great success (my deaths are due to my own stupidity and not gear related):

Missions- LS+DTB integration with drum

Running- Recon with drum

With both- Maverick, cargo pocket full of socks, extra clips/darts

I could see a Berserker with the center modified to shoot darts like a BBBB being really effective as well. If you're asking about what you should use I'm going to make the assumption that you haven't played before. My best advice, without knowing what all you have in your collection or what you're comfortable with using, is that you're looking for blasters with high ammo capacity that fire very reliably. Long range doesn't matter as much as those other factors.
***

Don't single a Berserker for HvZ, you'll kill someone.

Yeah, whoops. Thanks for that. I forgot to mention that the singled part should only be used for taking pot shots at long distance targets during missions. You'd be mostly using the 20 barrel springer, with the advantage being that you can reload on the go without having to fumble with clips or belts in the case of the belt blaster.
***
If this thread gets locked (like most "What gun is best" threads), feel free to PM me if you have other HvZ related questions. I graduated college last year, so I don't get to play much HvZ these days, but I'm still active with helping my friends run games, modding blasters for HvZ uses, and making NPC guest appearances.



#279852 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by SpectreX on 09 July 2010 - 04:25 PM in Modifications

Made from the assorted parts of blue, yellow, and clear Mavericks:
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#279620 I Found Where You Can Buy The Unreleased Guns, If You're Rich.

Posted by SpectreX on 06 July 2010 - 01:31 PM in General Nerf

If you convert the yuan prices to USD or whatever your local currency might be they're not that crazy in price. The issue is that you need a Chinese cell phone number to register for the site. They text you a confirmation code or something, but it was hard to tell with Google Chrome's rough translations. Also, most of them only accept payment from the equivalent of a Chinese Paypal service, which again you need to be in China to use from what I could tell.

I looked into this back when the first leaks about the Trooper and the Spectre were coming from that site a month or so ago. However, this late in the game it's less than a month to August, so is everyone really that impatient**?



**I forgot for a moment that I probably have 10+ years on most newer members of this site.



#273866 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by SpectreX on 02 May 2010 - 01:53 AM in Modifications

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Yes, it's a fully functional Raider priming grip slapped onto the side of a LS/DTB integration. I can do a write up if people want one, but if you have the technical abilities to make a LS/DTB, these pics should be all you need.



#237921 Nerfing Colleges

Posted by SpectreX on 22 June 2009 - 12:19 AM in General Nerf

SUNY Oneonta has a very active club for HvZ, and there are also regular Nerf wars occasionally. The wars are normally either team death match style or capture the flag, and have even been held in one of the dinning halls after hours (which rocked). The Zombie Defense Corps club will run 1 to 2 full HvZ games a semester, and also do "mission weekends" where they just run mission variants they want to try out all day. I just graduated from there and was sad to go, because there is a really strong youth (freshmen and sophomore) base for HvZ and Nerf in general.



#233451 Dtb Modification

Posted by SpectreX on 30 May 2009 - 04:09 PM in Modifications

As far as barrel replacements/modifications go, I got the best results of anything I tried by jamming 17/32 brass down the stock barrels. I did this with the DTB I used on my Longshot/DTB integration, and it gives it a very nice kick. However, mine has the stock spring with a Tek 6 under it as a power source, so that makes a difference I'm sure.



#78283 Rejected!

Posted by SpectreX on 01 April 2006 - 10:49 AM in Off Topic

I was wondering how people are paying for their colleges, especially out of state. Out of state tuition (both public and private) for college seems close to $30,000 a year, which for me is no small sum. I'd gladly go out of state if it weren't for this cost issue. Are people getting scholarships? Loans? Jobs? Since I'm likely to do a double major, finding a job during the school year would seem to defeat the purpose of affording college for me. Places like Stanford and MIT have very strong financial aid programs, but you still leave college with big loans to pay off, which is something that worries me. Maybe this is just the way college goes.

Once you get into your senior year of high school apply for every scholarship you can. Make it your job. Lots of them require essays, but if you think about it at most it'll take you a couple hours to write it, and even if it's only a $500 scholarship, you still just got yourself paid around $250 an hour for the work it took to get it. Thats a much better hourly rate than you'll get from any job you could get as a high school senior. Also the fact that many times you can reuse the same essay for many scholarships, because many of them have very similar essay topics.

There are many web sites that offer help with locating scholarships, and your school's guidance counselor should also be able to help out in that respect.

I did a lot of work and ended up with a ton of scholarships as well as a hefty one from the college I'm going to.

It seems like a pain in the ass to do all the filling out of forms and essay writing, but really it's the best way to earn money for college without getting a loan. I'm not saying you won't have to possibly get loans in addition to the scholarship money, but every scholarship dollar you get is money you don't have to borrow and pay interest on.



#76416 Pain

Posted by SpectreX on 15 March 2006 - 08:54 PM in General Nerf

Also where can you get eyeware( No, I don't want to get an Nstrike set)? Any ideas of like clear sunglasses?

I'd try a hardware store. They make safety goggles that look like sunglasses now, however the ones I've seen have been rather expensive.



#75780 Indoor War Darts?

Posted by SpectreX on 10 March 2006 - 08:27 PM in General Nerf

I would recommend the 1105 "matchstick" rounds. They get much better power than stock, but the plastidip tips won't mess up the walls.



#75476 Match Stick Question

Posted by SpectreX on 07 March 2006 - 12:13 PM in General Nerf

I can second that it needs to be used in open and well ventilated spaces. I made some 1105s in my dorm room even with the window open, the door open, and a fan helping to circulate the air the fumes were almost overwhelming. However, they're not bad if it's used in the proper setting.



#74985 New York Nerf War

Posted by SpectreX on 02 March 2006 - 08:47 PM in Nerf Wars

I live in Binghamton, and I'd be interested in something if it was located a bit more upstate. NYC is an evil drive for me.



#74493 New Gun? (videos)

Posted by SpectreX on 27 February 2006 - 01:56 AM in General Nerf

It looks like the Buzz Bee Ruff Stuff Rapid Action Rifle.

*EDIT* Anima beat me to the post, but there's the link anyway.



#73964 1105 Rounds

Posted by SpectreX on 23 February 2006 - 08:19 AM in General Nerf

I mount mine on a rack similar to the board with nails that Matchstick_Man has in his write up, so they are right side up after each dipping and they come out with nice tips.

Another thing that I've found helps is take your time about doing the dipping, and when you pull the dart out of the dip, tip the dart as necessary to get the drop of extra plastidip in the center of the tip, so it spreads out from there. That helps with getting even tips.



#73919 Can Any One Tell Me What Gun This Is?

Posted by SpectreX on 22 February 2006 - 08:51 PM in General Nerf

At least in my area the actual TTG has been discontinued. You can still buy the Tech Target set, but now the gun that comes with it is just a repainted Scout.



#73862 Firefly Mod Problems

Posted by SpectreX on 22 February 2006 - 11:02 AM in Modifications

This thread has a picture of the old Tech Target pistol in the first post.



#73784 What Ammo Do You Prefer?

Posted by SpectreX on 21 February 2006 - 03:40 PM in General Nerf

I second 1105's (Matchsticks). They work well in all of my stock barrels, and in my telescoping brass NF.



#73603 1105 Rounds

Posted by SpectreX on 19 February 2006 - 06:43 PM in General Nerf

If you got a metal washer that was the right size you could place that on the back of the dart and use it as a guide for the glue gun. The only trick would be getting one the right size, and then to be sure to do it quickly, because if you heat up the washer with the glue gun then the whole dart will melt.

Another melting idea would be if you bought some small diameter metal rod. Then mark off how deep you want your hole to be. All you'd have to do at point would be to use a propane torch, or some other method of heating up the rod so then it could be used to melt the hole into the dart, using the mark you made as a guide to know how deep to go.



#73564 1105 Rounds

Posted by SpectreX on 19 February 2006 - 03:18 PM in General Nerf

Actually, the hole in the middle doesn't seem to adversely affect the performance. If anything I think converted stock darts work better than my FBR 1105's. If I shoot FBR 1105 rounds from about 3' away at a wall, they fly hard out of the barrel, but they die when they hit the wall and just fall. Doing the same experiment with a converted stock dart, the dart hits the wall and bounces almost straight back to the gun. This is partially due to the different consistencies of the foam, but also the stock darts seem to have more power. If you read the dartsmithing guide, they actually have the instructions for putting the holes in your stefans, so I don't think holes are necessarily a bad thing.

For reference, the tests I just talked about where done with this gun.



#73560 1105 Rounds

Posted by SpectreX on 19 February 2006 - 02:52 PM in General Nerf

I'm assuming you straightened your darts in the dryer? If so, for how long? I tried to make a few, but they corkscrew like crazy as soon as they leave the barrel.

Yeah, I personally haven't had much success with the dryer method. I tried it, but no matter how long my FBR was in the dryer they wouldn't get straight enough for my liking. What I do is cut my FBR into reasonable sections (roughly 8' for me, but whatever works for you), and then tape it down to the floor. After that I take a hair dryer and go up and down the FBR with the dryer on high and just short "strokes" over the FBR. Once I've gone all the way down the length of the FBR, I pull the tape up, flip the FBR over and repeat the process. I've found that this method is fast and works very effectively.

From Matchstick_Man's pictures it seems that the dryer method is effective for some people, but really it's use the method that works for you.



#73512 1105 Rounds

Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 11:08 PM in General Nerf

Nope, there is no additional weighting required. The Plastidip gives the tip enough weight to make the dart fly properly.



#73509 Mech 6

Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 10:54 PM in General Nerf

From the animation on the site it would appear that the "clip" is part of the body of the gun, and darts are fed into the top of it.



#73493 Tec Ten?

Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 06:37 PM in General Nerf

I would recommend you get the Dart Tag Set if you're looking at the Tek 10. The Dart Tag guns are 10 round with the maverick style socking action. They work better, and are significantly easier to modify.



#73492 1105 Rounds

Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 06:30 PM in General Nerf

Well if you've looked around these boards much, you've probably run into comments refering to the 1105 "Matchstick" round. This method of dart creation was thought of by Matchstick_Man, and he has a very nice write-up of how to create these rounds on his own site. Other than random comments, I hadn't really heard much about other people trying or using these so I decided to try for myself.

For my first attempt I followed the directions to the letter, and here was my first 1105:

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(I dubbed it the "1105i" for Ice round so the name fit my color selection.)

My impressions of the dartsmithing process for the 1105 is that it is much more time consuming, because you have to tend to it for around 2 hours while you're doing the dipping, and then it's a 4 hour drying period. However, it is much easier than standard stefan making because there is no hole burning or hot glue involved. It's simply preparing your FBR and then dipping it into the Plastidip. Of course the question then becomes, "Are they any good?".

In my opinion, the answer is a resounding yes. For testing my new darts I grabbed one of my stock Nite Finders and took out the air restrictors. The only downside of 1105 rounds is that they're designed to be used in stock(air restrictors removed) barrels, or at the very least stock sized barrels. This makes them perfect for people that are less comfortable with modding and don't want to do the barrel replacement necessary to get the most out of stefans, because 1105's work very good in stock barrels and they're easy to make.

Of course with that it sounds like I'm saying they're a "newbie" dart. This is not the case. These darts perform with amazing accuracy and distance. I got comparable distances with my 1105i and a stefan in the same NF, so you're not sacrificing any performance with 1105 rounds over standard stefans. The other bonus is that the plastidip tips are very durable and make perfect domes(generally) if you allow the plastidip to dry without messing with it.

Overall I'd highly recommend making some 1105's for yourself. They're easy to mass produce, have great performance, and they'll last longer than stock darts or stefans.


Ok, if you survived all that talking, I'm going to get into some pictures with my "alternate assembly method." The only problem I found with my 1105 rounds was that I wasn't getting the FBR straight enough, and because the domes are so perfect along with less weight in the tip, the darts will follow the direction your darts are curved in if you don't have them very straight. I have made good batches of 1105 rounds using FBR, but I was thinking, "why not just retip stock darts?" I tried it, and it turned out perfectly. Here's a brief guide to preparing stock darts to be dipped.

First, you want to gently pull the rubber tip off the foam:
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Then trim the rubber down so just the part that sticks into the dart is left, and push that piece back into the dart.
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From there just follow Matchstick_Man's dipping instructions and you'll end up with this(this one was made from a sonic micro dart):
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The advantage of converting stock darts is that they'll work in guns with the pegs still in, and also the foam is more durable/straighter.

Hopefully more people will try to make their own 1105 rounds. I think Matchstick_Man really came up with a effective dartsmithing method. Here's the original 1105 topic.