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There have been 66 items by SpectreX (Search limited from 12-November 96)
#318279 N-Strike vs Vortex
Posted by SpectreX on 10 July 2012 - 03:48 PM in General Nerf
#300824 Orange Mod Works Kit Reviews
Posted by SpectreX on 30 June 2011 - 06:18 PM in General Nerf
So is this kit worth getting for someone like me who can't mod a recon very well at all?
Only if you're also going to get the Stage 2 kit as well. To make a good use of the Stage 1 kit, you need to take out the air restrictors. The Stage 2 kit has a metal plunger/bolt that you just drop in to replace the stock piece, so no real modding ability is necessary to get good results.
#300034 Orange Mod Works Kit Reviews
Posted by SpectreX on 17 June 2011 - 02:29 PM in General Nerf
LS kits for example could really be significant.
They have announced that they'll be putting out a LS "Immortal" kit, but no information about what it will have in it. However, they have announced that it will come in a collectors tin, so that probably means the pricing will be more of a premium than the Recon kits. It will be interesting to see what of the Longshot they decide to make out of metal.
#299850 Orange Mod Works Kit Reviews
Posted by SpectreX on 14 June 2011 - 10:57 AM in General Nerf
Besides modding, I'm also a HvZer, so I decided to get the OMW Recon kits to see if they were as good as their claims and worth recommending to other HvZers. I've got the Stage 1 kit installed on a Recon that only has the air restrictors out and the results are impressive. However, I think it'll be the Stage 2 kit that will really be a game changer, but I'll have to wait until it's released at the end of the month to say for sure. In theory, with the Stage 2 kit anyone with a screwdriver and a couple minutes to kill can suddenly go from a stock blaster to an optimized breach setup. No messing around with air restrictors/air release holes/o-rings, just open it up, take the stock parts out, drop in the OMW parts, and close it up.
If you're a modder it definitely takes the fun out of making it yourself, but for HvZ players and lesser skilled modders it allows them to get quick effective results as long as you're willing to pay for it (prices are incredibly reasonable for the results you get).
#287026 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests
Posted by SpectreX on 16 October 2010 - 03:26 PM in Modifications
I'd have to ask a rather obvious question just to narrow down the causes, did you place the batteries in the battery holder with their polarities facing the right way in the beginning? Yes And were the wires from the battery connected to the correct polarity contacts in the battery sled? Yes
Have you tested using AA to D battery converter shells instead? Did you encounter the same "need to be reversed then work" issue? I had tried it and it had the same issue at the time, but works fine now.
Do you have a volt multimeter with polarity indicator? If so, test the polarity of your TrustFire batteries, put the red test lead at the + tip of the battery and the black lead to the - tip of the battery, does it show the voltage without a "-" symbol next to the voltage reading? All of the polarities on the Trustfires are correct, and I tested a regular AA right after for comparison just incase I had the wires backwards, but it's all fine.
Any chance you can exchange your current Stampede with a new one at the store, or test the batteries in someone elses Stampede and see if the phenomenon still occurs? I did the draw-catch battery compartment mod already, so returning it may be problematic. However, aside from the auto-run it's working properly, so I think it'll be ok.
I'm quite curious 'cos you mention that you also face the same issue with your Powerstrike 48, which could indicate some sort of mis-matched polarities in the batch of batteries that you happen to be using too. I'm not sure what the deal with this was, but I fixed it by opening up where the motors are and swapping the wires at the motors. I don't know why reversed batteries and reversed motor wires work, when just regularly inserted batteries wouldn't (AA's would work but the 14500s wouldn't). Maybe there was a contact issue I didn't diagnose with the batteries inserted the normal way. In any event, it works great all modded up now, so I won't worry about it.
#286942 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests
Posted by SpectreX on 14 October 2010 - 10:31 AM in Modifications
Why are the unprotected Trustfire 14500s only working in battery powered blasters when they are inserted backwards?
I am using an identical setup to SgNerf where I have 4 of the 14500s in a 4-AA holder that is alligator clipped to the inside of the battery tray for the Stampede. If I have the connections hooked up so that the current is running the same way that it would with just the regular D-cells nothing happens when I pull the trigger. All you can hear is the internals twich slightly, but nothing else happens.
However, if I simply swap where the clips are connected it runs fine aside from having the auto-run problem, which I think may be at least partially caused by the current being run through the blaster in the reverse from normal.
I have observed essentially the same problem in the Power Strike 48. Putting 14500s in the normal way causes nothing to happen when you hit the power switch, but if you put them in backwards the motors come on like they should. However, the motors are of course running in the reverse direction in that case, so instead of firing you just get mangled darts.
Anyone have any insights as to what the deal is? I have double and triple checked the voltage/current with my multimeter. If we can figure out how to make the Stampede work with increased voltage running the correct way through the blaster it might completely solve the auto-run issue.
#286444 Is A Big Bad Bow Spring To Stong For A Stock Longshot Boltsled?
Posted by SpectreX on 02 October 2010 - 06:45 PM in Modifications
In either event, just reinforce it with any of the methods people have mentioned if you're worried about it breaking. It's probably worth the time and effort put into it.
#286261 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by SpectreX on 29 September 2010 - 06:44 PM in Modifications
I'm sorry about the picture quality, not sure what happened there. After I did this mod it gave me other ideas about frankensteining, and this is the result. We've got a Longshot with an internal shotgun grip utilizing the grip from the Deploy. It's got a SgNerf style brass breach, and the internal shotgun grip linkage was based heavily on this design.
#285419 Stampede Problems
Posted by SpectreX on 14 September 2010 - 09:09 PM in Modifications
i'm sorry i might just be stupid, but by slide cover do you mean that piece of plastic that screw over the the plunger system to keep it from popping out?
I believe he's referring to the "Access" cover that you open if you want to clear a jam. It has to be perfectly closed or it trips a safety, and it's very easy to not get it put back in quite right when you're reassembling.
#285351 Nerf Stampede - Mod Guide!
Posted by SpectreX on 13 September 2010 - 12:34 PM in Modifications
#285330 Nerf Stampede - Mod Guide!
Posted by SpectreX on 12 September 2010 - 05:23 PM in Modifications
Such batteries can be installed in the original Stampede battery sled without additional modification, simply use AA or 2AA to D-battery converters, or use multi-slot AA battery holders.
I'm still debating over different battery replacement options, but after doing more research the 14500s seem to offer the best value and ease of installation. However, I had a couple questions regarding the different battery holders.
In the quoted picture there's a 1AA-to-D converter on the left and a 2AA-to-D converter on the top. Now to get the voltages described I believe the four 14500s used in this mod are being run in serial? From my understanding the 2AA-to-D converters are running those two batteries in parallel to achieve a larger capacity at the same voltage. This means that to be getting the correct voltage with the 2AA converters one would need a total of 8 of the 14500s, but the advantage that being connected in 4S4P you would essentially be getting a capacity 1800mAh instead of 900mAh?
So in summary:
Using 1AA-to-D converters you would need four 14500 batteries and you would be getting ~16V and 900mAh.
Using 2AA-to-D converters you would need eight 14500 batteries resulting in ~16V and 1800mAh?
Also, is there any advantage to using the unprotected 14500s that you have as opposed to ones with a built in PCB?
I just wanted to check on this before making any purchases.
#285226 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests
Posted by SpectreX on 10 September 2010 - 12:08 PM in Modifications
I think that should work fine, since the current draw is only like 1.7A max. Pretty expensive, though. You might be better off trying to buy 4 of those 18650 batteries and put them in a holder. Probably would be a lot cheaper.
Yeah, if I go with this kind of setup that's exactly what I was thinking of doing. A four pack of Tenergy 18650s from Amazon is about half the price of that pre-built pack. It was just easier to link to something that had all of the numbers summed up already. Glad to know this setup should work.
#285208 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests
Posted by SpectreX on 09 September 2010 - 11:23 PM in Modifications
This is what I've found. I wouldn't necessarily be buying this specific one, but would something like this do the trick? I was figuring I'd hook the leads up to a tamiya connector for putting it in the Stampede. Is this feasible, or is it a serious fire hazard?
#281900 Is The Nerf Tactical Vest Worth The $30?
Posted by SpectreX on 02 August 2010 - 09:25 PM in General Nerf
#281404 Are The Clear Blasters Faulty?
Posted by SpectreX on 27 July 2010 - 06:12 PM in General Nerf
**EDIT**
Ok, so I just took out one of my clear Nfs and unboxed a yellow one I bought recently and had sitting around. Both fresh out of the box the performance is pretty much identical. Honestly though, with the Nf in particular, if you've got another one that works better you could always just drop those internals into the pretty clear shell.
#280971 Stampede Official Nerf Demo Coverage
Posted by SpectreX on 22 July 2010 - 03:07 PM in General Nerf
Go get it early guys, those are the Target numbers for it. Use the DPCI number. I'd get it myself, but I need the money for a church camp I'm attending.
Maybe not just yet. I had a bunch of time to kill today, so I did the rounds to see what I could find in stores. For reference I'm in Buffalo, NY, so stores in your area might be different. However, I can report that it would seem no Stampedes have been shipped to stores here yet.
If you're going to a Target it's really easy to check what they have in stock without dealing with a person. Just find one of those barcode scanners they have in the aisles for price checking. It should have number buttons running down the side, and you can type in the DPCI number and have it check that store's inventory. The none Target stores I went to had any in stock, but the screen does come up with "Nerf Stampede $49.99" when you enter the DPCI number.
Toys R' Us is a little more tricky because they don't seem to have a way for you to check for yourself without assistance. I got lucky and ran into an employee roughly my age who likes to put car batteries into Power-Wheels, so he found the concept of Nerf modding cool and he was more than happy to help me out. He not only checked in the back room of the store I was in, but he also had the lady at the customer service desk use their inventory computer to check all of the stores in the Buffalo area. Nada. You'll want the numbers from this page (specifically the listed "item number" 460315) if you're going hunting at Toys R' Us, and their computers say they have it for $54.99.
I think people being able to order them off the Toys R' Us website for a few hours the other day must be based upon distribution warehouse stock if they're not just bsing completely, because I've seen at least one person claiming that theirs shipped
Happy Hunting, but I think it might not be worth looking for a few weeks yet.
#280951 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by SpectreX on 22 July 2010 - 11:26 AM in Modifications
The pricing is good ($7.72 for a 17/32 3-pack), and they seem to have a wide selection of options as far as purchasing either one-foot or three-foot lengths in either three or six packs. I have personally purchased and used 17/32 and 9/16 from here and mixed it in with my leftover K&S for things like Angel breaches and had no issues.
The only thing for people not as familiar with brass is make sure you're ordering the stuff that has 0.014" wall, because that is the right size if you're going to be mixing with K&S. The link I put in above is for the 3-pack of 17/32 one-foot.
#280202 Humans Vs Zombies Recommended Weapons
Posted by SpectreX on 14 July 2010 - 09:00 AM in General Nerf
Missions- LS+DTB integration with drum
Running- Recon with drum
With both- Maverick, cargo pocket full of socks, extra clips/darts
I could see a Berserker with the center modified to shoot darts like a BBBB being really effective as well. If you're asking about what you should use I'm going to make the assumption that you haven't played before. My best advice, without knowing what all you have in your collection or what you're comfortable with using, is that you're looking for blasters with high ammo capacity that fire very reliably. Long range doesn't matter as much as those other factors.
***
Yeah, whoops. Thanks for that. I forgot to mention that the singled part should only be used for taking pot shots at long distance targets during missions. You'd be mostly using the 20 barrel springer, with the advantage being that you can reload on the go without having to fumble with clips or belts in the case of the belt blaster.Don't single a Berserker for HvZ, you'll kill someone.
***
If this thread gets locked (like most "What gun is best" threads), feel free to PM me if you have other HvZ related questions. I graduated college last year, so I don't get to play much HvZ these days, but I'm still active with helping my friends run games, modding blasters for HvZ uses, and making NPC guest appearances.
#279852 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by SpectreX on 09 July 2010 - 04:25 PM in Modifications
#279620 I Found Where You Can Buy The Unreleased Guns, If You're Rich.
Posted by SpectreX on 06 July 2010 - 01:31 PM in General Nerf
I looked into this back when the first leaks about the Trooper and the Spectre were coming from that site a month or so ago. However, this late in the game it's less than a month to August, so is everyone really that impatient**?
**I forgot for a moment that I probably have 10+ years on most newer members of this site.
#273866 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by SpectreX on 02 May 2010 - 01:53 AM in Modifications
Yes, it's a fully functional Raider priming grip slapped onto the side of a LS/DTB integration. I can do a write up if people want one, but if you have the technical abilities to make a LS/DTB, these pics should be all you need.
#237921 Nerfing Colleges
Posted by SpectreX on 22 June 2009 - 12:19 AM in General Nerf
#233451 Dtb Modification
Posted by SpectreX on 30 May 2009 - 04:09 PM in Modifications
#78283 Rejected!
Posted by SpectreX on 01 April 2006 - 10:49 AM in Off Topic
Once you get into your senior year of high school apply for every scholarship you can. Make it your job. Lots of them require essays, but if you think about it at most it'll take you a couple hours to write it, and even if it's only a $500 scholarship, you still just got yourself paid around $250 an hour for the work it took to get it. Thats a much better hourly rate than you'll get from any job you could get as a high school senior. Also the fact that many times you can reuse the same essay for many scholarships, because many of them have very similar essay topics.I was wondering how people are paying for their colleges, especially out of state. Out of state tuition (both public and private) for college seems close to $30,000 a year, which for me is no small sum. I'd gladly go out of state if it weren't for this cost issue. Are people getting scholarships? Loans? Jobs? Since I'm likely to do a double major, finding a job during the school year would seem to defeat the purpose of affording college for me. Places like Stanford and MIT have very strong financial aid programs, but you still leave college with big loans to pay off, which is something that worries me. Maybe this is just the way college goes.
There are many web sites that offer help with locating scholarships, and your school's guidance counselor should also be able to help out in that respect.
I did a lot of work and ended up with a ton of scholarships as well as a hefty one from the college I'm going to.
It seems like a pain in the ass to do all the filling out of forms and essay writing, but really it's the best way to earn money for college without getting a loan. I'm not saying you won't have to possibly get loans in addition to the scholarship money, but every scholarship dollar you get is money you don't have to borrow and pay interest on.
#76416 Pain
Posted by SpectreX on 15 March 2006 - 08:54 PM in General Nerf
I'd try a hardware store. They make safety goggles that look like sunglasses now, however the ones I've seen have been rather expensive.Also where can you get eyeware( No, I don't want to get an Nstrike set)? Any ideas of like clear sunglasses?
#75780 Indoor War Darts?
Posted by SpectreX on 10 March 2006 - 08:27 PM in General Nerf
#75476 Match Stick Question
Posted by SpectreX on 07 March 2006 - 12:13 PM in General Nerf
#74493 New Gun? (videos)
Posted by SpectreX on 27 February 2006 - 01:56 AM in General Nerf
*EDIT* Anima beat me to the post, but there's the link anyway.
#73964 1105 Rounds
Posted by SpectreX on 23 February 2006 - 08:19 AM in General Nerf
Another thing that I've found helps is take your time about doing the dipping, and when you pull the dart out of the dip, tip the dart as necessary to get the drop of extra plastidip in the center of the tip, so it spreads out from there. That helps with getting even tips.
#73919 Can Any One Tell Me What Gun This Is?
Posted by SpectreX on 22 February 2006 - 08:51 PM in General Nerf
#73862 Firefly Mod Problems
Posted by SpectreX on 22 February 2006 - 11:02 AM in Modifications
#73784 What Ammo Do You Prefer?
Posted by SpectreX on 21 February 2006 - 03:40 PM in General Nerf
#73603 1105 Rounds
Posted by SpectreX on 19 February 2006 - 06:43 PM in General Nerf
Another melting idea would be if you bought some small diameter metal rod. Then mark off how deep you want your hole to be. All you'd have to do at point would be to use a propane torch, or some other method of heating up the rod so then it could be used to melt the hole into the dart, using the mark you made as a guide to know how deep to go.
#73564 1105 Rounds
Posted by SpectreX on 19 February 2006 - 03:18 PM in General Nerf
For reference, the tests I just talked about where done with this gun.
#73560 1105 Rounds
Posted by SpectreX on 19 February 2006 - 02:52 PM in General Nerf
Yeah, I personally haven't had much success with the dryer method. I tried it, but no matter how long my FBR was in the dryer they wouldn't get straight enough for my liking. What I do is cut my FBR into reasonable sections (roughly 8' for me, but whatever works for you), and then tape it down to the floor. After that I take a hair dryer and go up and down the FBR with the dryer on high and just short "strokes" over the FBR. Once I've gone all the way down the length of the FBR, I pull the tape up, flip the FBR over and repeat the process. I've found that this method is fast and works very effectively.I'm assuming you straightened your darts in the dryer? If so, for how long? I tried to make a few, but they corkscrew like crazy as soon as they leave the barrel.
From Matchstick_Man's pictures it seems that the dryer method is effective for some people, but really it's use the method that works for you.
#73512 1105 Rounds
Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 11:08 PM in General Nerf
#73509 Mech 6
Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 10:54 PM in General Nerf
#73493 Tec Ten?
Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 06:37 PM in General Nerf
#73492 1105 Rounds
Posted by SpectreX on 18 February 2006 - 06:30 PM in General Nerf
For my first attempt I followed the directions to the letter, and here was my first 1105:
(I dubbed it the "1105i" for Ice round so the name fit my color selection.)
My impressions of the dartsmithing process for the 1105 is that it is much more time consuming, because you have to tend to it for around 2 hours while you're doing the dipping, and then it's a 4 hour drying period. However, it is much easier than standard stefan making because there is no hole burning or hot glue involved. It's simply preparing your FBR and then dipping it into the Plastidip. Of course the question then becomes, "Are they any good?".
In my opinion, the answer is a resounding yes. For testing my new darts I grabbed one of my stock Nite Finders and took out the air restrictors. The only downside of 1105 rounds is that they're designed to be used in stock(air restrictors removed) barrels, or at the very least stock sized barrels. This makes them perfect for people that are less comfortable with modding and don't want to do the barrel replacement necessary to get the most out of stefans, because 1105's work very good in stock barrels and they're easy to make.
Of course with that it sounds like I'm saying they're a "newbie" dart. This is not the case. These darts perform with amazing accuracy and distance. I got comparable distances with my 1105i and a stefan in the same NF, so you're not sacrificing any performance with 1105 rounds over standard stefans. The other bonus is that the plastidip tips are very durable and make perfect domes(generally) if you allow the plastidip to dry without messing with it.
Overall I'd highly recommend making some 1105's for yourself. They're easy to mass produce, have great performance, and they'll last longer than stock darts or stefans.
Ok, if you survived all that talking, I'm going to get into some pictures with my "alternate assembly method." The only problem I found with my 1105 rounds was that I wasn't getting the FBR straight enough, and because the domes are so perfect along with less weight in the tip, the darts will follow the direction your darts are curved in if you don't have them very straight. I have made good batches of 1105 rounds using FBR, but I was thinking, "why not just retip stock darts?" I tried it, and it turned out perfectly. Here's a brief guide to preparing stock darts to be dipped.
First, you want to gently pull the rubber tip off the foam:
Then trim the rubber down so just the part that sticks into the dart is left, and push that piece back into the dart.
From there just follow Matchstick_Man's dipping instructions and you'll end up with this(this one was made from a sonic micro dart):
The advantage of converting stock darts is that they'll work in guns with the pegs still in, and also the foam is more durable/straighter.
Hopefully more people will try to make their own 1105 rounds. I think Matchstick_Man really came up with a effective dartsmithing method. Here's the original 1105 topic.
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