Jump to content


Flaming Hilt's Content

There have been 969 items by Flaming Hilt (Search limited from 12-November 96)


By content type

See this member's


Sort by                Order  

#304556 Puget Sound Nerf War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 10 September 2011 - 05:18 PM in Nerf Wars

I still want to know who that person is who's hanging from the ceiling.

I'll stop by the Associated Students' office and report back on the success of vehicle reservation.



#303563 The Two (or Three) Hour Homemade

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 19 August 2011 - 08:26 PM in Homemades

This looks awesome! But I'm not quite clear on the O-ring. Is it glued around the inner edge of the tee(like concentric circles)? What's its function? Thanks.


The concentric circles idea is correct. The function of the O-ring is to reduce air leakage out the hole for the trigger, so that as much air as possible is used to propel the dart forwards (instead of leaking out around the trigger).



#300196 The Two (or Three) Hour Homemade

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 20 June 2011 - 12:19 AM in Homemades

For the trigger setup is the screw supposed to be screwed into the check valve? What length screw are you guys using for the triggers ( if it helps I am planning to use the pvcT setup) or it doesn't really matter? Also any tips on hole to drill into the center of the tee?


arfink already covered this a wee bit but I wanted to add notes for my specific design.

As specified in the write-up, I'm using a 1/4x4 lag screw. This means it's 1/4" in diameter and 4" long. For 1/2" PVC with the tee directly connected to the check valve I find this to be the perfect length. I like lag screws because they have pointed ends, so they are easier to get started in a non-pre-threaded hole than a hex screw.

The screw is screwed into the valve part of the check valve -- that is, the piece that moves. If you stare down the front of your valve (the end that air only comes out of) you should see a small cylinder of PVC on the inside -- that's what you want the screw attached to.

My tip for drilling the hole is this: slow and straight.



#299959 Pump Bottle Pump Blaster

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 16 June 2011 - 07:20 PM in Homemades

I feel like this would make a nice attachment to any gun. That is to say, like people used to do with SSPBs on NFs. You could slap this on the bottom of a SNAP and have a nice little lefty-fired backup that nobody saw coming when they rushed you, thinking you were out of ammo.



#299921 The Two (or Three) Hour Homemade

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 15 June 2011 - 04:02 PM in Homemades

The semi automatic idea might work better if you had a larger chamber between the ball valve and the check valve, as (At least I think after reading SG Nerf's post) that is the air used for firing the dart if you use it as a semi automatic blaster.


This is wise. I will try adding a small chamber (perhaps just a T with an endcap on the outlet) and post the results.

I acknowledge SGN's reservation that this will take air from the main chamber, but right now I think I'm getting a semi-auto effect, just a weak one. IE, pulling the trigger makes the same magnitude of "pop" each time (and thus I assess, the same pressure of air is being released, which is what we want), but this "pop" is hardly strong enough to get a dart out of the barrel.

EDIT: After watching 3DBBQ's semi-auto demonstration (which I have posted in the semi-auto section of the write-up) I note that his active air tank (the part between the ball valve and the check valve) is about as big as mine. I would conclude that he just pressurizes his tank more than I do, but (by my guess) we're using equal size pumps and pump relatively the same amount of times. Perhaps I just have bad luck with air guns.

For my unit, i simply adjust the ball valve opening until i get it to fire in semi-auto, then i leave the ball valve in the same position for the duration of the entire Nerf game (or until i want to increase or decrease the air flow to adjust the shot power). The blaster can be pumped up multiple times after that without re-adjusting the ball valve. I guess its pretty much like adjusting the air regulator on an air tank device.


I understand where you're coming from and think it a valid point, but I would like to be able to switch on and off the semi-auto mid game. Of course, with practice I'm sure I can find that perfect spot in just a second or two.



#299861 The Two (or Three) Hour Homemade

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 14 June 2011 - 03:14 PM in Homemades

I think what I'm going to do is mount some tubing as a bypass around the ball valve. That way when the valve is (all the way) closed, the tubing (hopefully) restricts the air enough to create a semi-auto effect; otherwise, I can open the valve for single shots. Or even better, I'll just drill a hole through the ball with my smallest bit. Same effect, less $/exposed tubing... if only the small diameter bits were the long ones.

In the mean time I'll keep fiddling, but it seems like in the field an "Off-On" semi-auto is better than a "Maybe... almost there... oops, too far" semi-auto. Not that experienced valve operators like SGN can't achieve the "Off-On" effect without further modification. ;)

Edit: Video is up.



#299854 The Two (or Three) Hour Homemade

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 14 June 2011 - 12:05 PM in Homemades

dajstafarian/Carbon -- Thanks, it's good to be back (who knows for how long -- I start another job on Monday), and good to know this is well received.

SGN -- I have actually tried the "mostly closed" method on the ball valve for getting semi-auto to work, and can't quite get it. It seems like the valve is either too far open, or just plain closed. I'm guessing I need a bigger air tank or a more precise valve (3D uses brass, I think, and his handles are longer). I'll keep trying when I've got time to kill, but other thoughts/advice would be appreciated in the meantime.

T3K -- A good thought, I'll add it to the write-up if you don't mind.
EDIT: Can't seem to find the part you're talking about (unless it's one of these $60 guys...) could you please point me in the right direction?

Ozymandias -- I'll try and get a video up later today. I got the valve at Lowe's in the section with the ball valves (bottom shelf), in the same aisle as the rest of the fittings. Smaller hardware stores generally don't have them, I think because they are primarily a "contractor item." But I have seen them at Homie D's and larger Ace Hardware stores. McMaster has them as 46835K52, though beware of shipping costs.

Boot -- It's interesting to note that other people seem to be as interested as I, yet we hadn't discovered each other until just now. Maybe we should have developed a cult instead of posting a write-up. :lol: And you said it best,

...because these components are more or less designed for this very purpose, once bought they will function flawlessly, and will stand up to much more abuse than most other alternatives.

Thanks for the input/commitment to cheap parts. :)



#299823 Effeminate 2.2

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 13 June 2011 - 10:12 PM in Nerf Wars

Sorry I missed this one. I can do late August.



#299822 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 13 June 2011 - 09:53 PM in Homemades

Posted Image

(TH)^2, a 3DBBQ-style "completely homemade" air gun.

Write-up here.



#299811 The Two (or Three) Hour Homemade

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 13 June 2011 - 08:01 PM in Homemades

Posted Image

Video.


NOT A CONTEST ENTRY


- - - Intro - - -


In my time as a nerfer there has always been one quest the NIC can't quite seem to get their hands on. In the words of VACC... well, just see his words here.

It seems to me, however, that 3DBBQ has already conquered this task. His blasters easily meet all the requirements VACC has posted (see "Political Things" #3 and 4 at very bottom of this post). However, I don't think I've ever seen a “3DBBQ style” blaster at a war here in the states. I don't know if it's his awesome paint jobs, the fact that his website is in another language (which Google translate does alright with, I might add), or that he hardly ever posts, but for whatever reason nobody seems to want to reproduce his style of gun.

I'm not here to change that, but I am here with a writeup, and some claims about the ease and the results and general AWESOMENESS. I'll leave further ado at the end since this is supposed to be a writeup and not a political discussion, but first and foremost: ALL CREDIT GOES TO 3DBBQ.

Now, on to business.


- - Key Features - - -


First off, this write-up is long because it's detailed. Don't let that make you think this gun is at ALL hard to build.


This project didn't really have any goals besides “damn, 3DBBQ has got his shit down, let's see if I can't reproduce some of it.” So instead of goals, here are the key features:
- Highly customizable (this write-up is intended as a TEMPLATE).
- Build Time: Less than 2 hours.
- No complicated instructions (in my opinion) or pieces or "cut 1.73mm slot from x to y at height z."
- 100% “homemade” (IE does not use any part of anything made by Hasbro)
- Skill required: Limited. Can you drill straight holes? Okay.
- Cost: $20-30 depending on your pump and chosen accessories. Cost of pipe pieces alone is about $18. My pump was $8 and I needed a $2 barbxMIP.
- Range: At least 60 feet with 2 pumps, but depends on your build, and see range test at the bottom for details.
- Required tools: Drill, hacksaw or pipe cutter, wrench (or handy work with pliers). Maybe a dremel.

I call it (TH)^2. Because I'm a math guy. And “T.H. squared” is kinda catchy to say. Anyways, (TH)^2 breaks down into (T^2)(H^2), which is equivalent to TTHH, which stands for “The Two Hour Homemade.” It could also be “The Three Hour Homemade” depending on how far away your hardware store is. But yea, that's how long it took me, travel time and all. Like I said, 3DBBQ has got his shit down.


- - -Write-up - - -


First I want to make it clear that this is a TEMPLATE. I've included instructions for various available pumps, and you can make yours look however you want. You can easily add or subtract ball valves, air tank space, etc. This is a write-up for the gun you see pictured, but please, modify as you like.

Posted Image
For the diagram I used 3DBBQ's software which can be downloaded here.

Materials Required:
1/2” Sch. 40 PVC:
18” of pipe
2x Tee
1x Coupler (depending on how you want your handle)
2x Endcap
1x Check Valve
1x Ball Valve (optional)
1x 90 degree Elbow

1” Sch. 40 PVC:
12” of pipe
2x 90 degree Elbow
1x Endcap
1x Check Valve – depending on your pump

Barrel:
I used 1/2” Sch. 80 PVC but you may wish to use something of your own. To follow my plans it will need to fit in a 1/2” Sch. 40 PVC Coupler – perhaps some nested brass?

Other:
1x 1”x1/2” Tee
1x Pump – Mine is a dual-action ball pump from the drugstore for $7.99
1x 1/8” Barb by 1/4” MIP – depending on your pump
4-10x Small screws – size doesn't really matter, about 1/4” long is ideal but no shorter
1/4”x4” Lag Screw – Lowe's #63352
1/4”x1/2” O-Ring – Lowe's #0531, comes in packs of 2

Tools Required:
Drill
Drill bit for your screws (see below)
Drill bit for the lag screw (see below)
Hacksaw or Pipe Cutter
Wrench, or pliers and creativity
Dremel (depending on your pump and how you want it attached)
Hot glue + gun
Super glue
A drop of oil/lube (optional, but recommended. I used Tri-Lube, since I always have some floating around for biking purposes)

Drill bit selection: Rather than letting you mindlessly choose the drill bit I chose, I'll just teach you how to pick the right size. Hold your drill bit in front of your screw like so:

Posted Image

If you can see the threads poking out the sides but not any body of the screw, your bit is the right size. If you can't see threads, your bit is too big. If you can see the body of the screw, your bit is too small (as is this bit). Voila.

- - -
1. Figure out how to get air from your pump into your gun.

Option 1) If you're lucky, your pump is single action, and fits right into your 1”x1/2” Tee. So for you, this step consists of pushing in your pump and sealing it with hot glue. Yes, hot glue. Did I say hot glue? I've been nerfing for 5 years now and used properly, hot glue is, in my experience, air tight. If you disagree, don't argue (after all, I did say "in my experience"), just use epoxy. Oh, and no BarbxMIP here.

Option 2) If you're less lucky, your pump is dual-action, like mine (see photo below), and/or has a hose. Buy an extra 1/2” endcap. Drill a hole for your MIP in the endcap and screw it in with the wrench, nipple side out. Push the hose onto the nipple. No, you don't need a zip-tie, but it won't hurt. Wrap the endcap in electrical tape until it fits snug in the 1”x1/2” Tee. Glue it in according to the diagram below the photo below. Drill holes in your Tee between the 1/2” endcap and the pump itself (over the nipple of the BarbxMIP) for the backwards action of the pump to breathe. If the pump fits in your tee, glue it in (but it doesn't have to be airtight). If not, see next option.

Posted Image
Here's a dual-action pump. As you can see, it needs to breathe from both ends, so we can't just glue it in.

Posted Image

Option 3) Your pump doesn't fit into your Tee. You have two options. You can whip out the dremel and increase the ID of the Tee until it fits (what I did), or you can find another place to attach your pump. If it has a hose this will be easy (drill a hole for the BarbxMIP and follow relevant instructions of option 2). If not... well, I recommend you try another size Tee.

Option 4) You are either extremely unlucky or you got a $0.99 pump. Your pump doesn't have it's own check valve. Unlikely, but possible. If this is the case you need another PVC check valve. I would get a 1” and shove your pump into it, following options 1-3 but replacing the word “Tee” with “Check Valve.” Make sure your valve is oriented correctly.

Note) I recommend, wherever and however you place your pump, that it have a straight line of PVC to the butt of the gun. If not, when pumping, you may find it breaks off, or you may find the force of pumping breaks your gun elsewhere. If the pump makes a straight line of PVC to the butt, the force of pumping goes straight through the PVC and into your shoulder/chest/whatever you pump against.

- - -
2. Cut your PVC (hacksaw/pipe cutter).
You will need 7x 1” long pieces of 1/2” PVC to connect your 1/2” PVC fittings, and I have a 10” tube clip behind my barrel.
You'll need 2x 1” long pieces of 1” PVC to connect your 1” PVC fittings, and I have a 10” piece for my air tank.
Cut your barrel as necessary. Mine is 8” long. I know it could be longer, but I wanted this gun to be compact.

If you want to paint your baby, now is the time, before you have to... you know... take it apart again.

- - -
3. Make your trigger.

Substep 1) If your check valve comes apart, take it apart now.

Posted Image
Photo is copyright 3DBBQ

Substep 2) Drill a hole in the exact center of the plunger head, for your lag screw. If your valve does not come apart I recommend pushing it all the way back with your drill bit before you begin SLOWLY drilling, and pointing up so the PVC shards come out the bottom and don't get stuck in your valve. FYI, my valve did not come apart, and I did no damage to it (at least, it still works as it should) by following these steps.

Don't worry about going all the way through, we're going to plug the hole with a lag screw anyways.

Posted Image
Photo is copyright 3DBBQ

Substep 3) Gently screw in and out your lag screw. This threads the hole so it will be easier to get in when it really matters.

Substep 4) Drill a hole in the exact center of the closed side of your Tee.

Posted Image
Photo is copyright 3DBBQ

Substep 5) Drill a 1/2” diameter slot centered over the hole you just drilled, from the inside out. DO NOT go all the way through.

Substep 6) Super glue your o-ring into that slot. It's tricky to get the glue into the middle of the tee but it's doable with some patience, and maybe a toothpick. Wait to dry.

Substep 7) Attach the Tee to the back end (IE the end air comes only out of, and never goes into) of the check valve. Screw your lag screw into the tee and then screw it a comfortable distance into the plunger head (it should give only with the valve when you push/pull on it, and if you put your valve together and blow on the opposite end, it should work as a trigger should).

Posted Image
Photo is copyright 3DBBQ
He uses a hex head for his drill, but a wrench will work just fine.

Substep 8) If you took apart your check valve, put it back together.

Substep 9) (Optional) Add a drop of oil/lube to the outside of the lag screw. Hold the trigger assembly with the lag screw up so the oil drips down to where the O-ring is. If you don't do this your o-ring might keep your valve from automatically resetting. If you don't have lube you can put a spring between the head of the lag screw and the outside of the Tee to solve this.

- - -
4. Anything not together, push together HARD. PVC cement if you wish – I don't think it necessary, but if you feel otherwise, do otherwise. Remember to shave a ramp shape into the back of your barrel so the loading mechanism works properly.

Posted Image

Between fittings use your 1” long connectors. The rest should be pretty self-explanatory.

I recommend filling the red piece with hot glue. I haven't proven any physical ramifications but it can't hurt. Theoretically, it keeps air from “flushing” into the bottom of the handle, moving it that much faster to the barrel, improving ranges (?). I don't know. But like I said, can't hurt.

- - -
5. Screws

To keep this thing from blowing apart you'll want to put screws anywhere you have a PVC connector. I just have my screws on the 1” connections, actually – the 1/2” stuff hasn't blown apart yet (from the perspective of a physicist, this makes sense, since the inside of the 1/2” pipe has less surface area for air to pressurize/push out on – but still, choose where or where not to place screws at your own risk).

As long as you use the proper size drill bit you need not worry about creating leaks - your screws will plug the holes you make. Be careful, however, not to drill into a critical part of your pump, or you'll have to buy another (not that I'm speaking from experience... cough I swear, the one-way valve is hard to miss!).

- - -
6. Semi-Auto

Just to add-on to your guide, for the semi-auto function to work in his V6 design, you don't open and close the ball valve each time, you just open the ball valve very slightly and leave it in a fixed semi-open position, that acts as a simple air regulator, the larger the valve opening -- the more air flow that re-fills the space in between each shot.

When you fire a shot, the air between the ball valve and check valve will exit, then the air from the main pipe sections will fill in the space through the small opening at the ball valve.

You'll need to pump it up beforehand with enough air volume and pressure to sustain the firing of many shots though. I've found that 30-40 PSI of pressure (my pump has an in-built pressure gauge) along with the right amount of ball valve opening, was enough to fire around 6-7 shots continuously in semi-auto.

Try it out, you'll see how the semi-auto system works. :)


Here's a demonstration by 3DBBQ himself.

I personally have not had any luck with this method, but I suggest you try it, it might be a function of being me.

function doesthiswork(areyouhilt)
|if hilt, then false
|if !hilt, then true}

I'm going to try another system later this week and, if successful, will post instructions here.

- - -
7. Extra

I chose to zip tie my pump to the T of my barrel. This helps keep it stable when pumping. I'll edit this section if anybody else thinks of anything else one might want to do.

- - -
Done. And you thought there would be as many steps as step 3 had substeps.

To reload you can just drop darts in the front of the barrel. The firing sequence is then pump, tilt forward, tilt back/aim, fire, repeat. I've never liked this loading method because I always get either too many or too few (IE zero) darts in the barrel, but with practice, I'm getting better. I recommend you give it a try. If you're not up for it, consider swapping the T for an elbow, and loading one at a time.

You can also use the ball valve for a semi-auto effect, but with two pumps a shot I haven't found this necessary. Pumping takes less time then opening and closing the ball valve for me. As well, one might need a bigger tank for the ball valve to have a decent effect.


- - - Ranges - - -


My clip holds 4 darts + 1 in the barrel so that's how many I tested.
2 pumps (recall this is a dual-action pump):
63 ft
70 ft
71 ft
67 ft
73 ft

For political reasons (welcome to my University) I only use stock darts – at 3 pumps or more they all fishtailed. I'm interested to see the ranges that someone with a similar build gets when using stefans.

Also, recall I am using a Sch. 80 barrel, which is roughly equivalent to 19/32” brass – a tad big. This makes for easy front loading, but you may wish to use a smaller barrel and I'm guessing you'll then get better results.


- - - Further Ado/Political Things - - -


1. As I mentioned, all credit goes to 3DBBQ. Except the actual writing. My fingers are on this keyboard. Why? Simply because I don't give a shit about the flame wars created by claiming credit on this forum. This write-up is solely for the good of the sport. I don't want to waste one post about who came up with what first or “isn't this mine because I put that PVC tee there” – I just want to see this out on the field. It's a good, cheap, easy-and-quick-to-build, effective, highly customizable design. Yes, I know I used a lot of adjectives there.

E.G. if you're thinking of posting: “So basically you did a writeup of 3DBBQ's work,” the answer is “Yes.” And he gets all the credit.

2. Why do a write-up of somebody else's work: After building a 3DBBQ-style gun I can claim they are ridiculously easy to build and yield phenomenal results. 3DBBQ has done plenty of work already with the guns themselves and his website, not to mention the write-ups would be hell to translate (nothing personal... I wouldn't want to do a write-up in a forum of his language either). It seemed like common sense to me to publicize something that worked so well and should be (in my opinion) in much wider use. If 3DBBQ or the mods have a problem with this, I understand – just lock the thread. Apologies in advance.

3. This is not my work and thus obviously not an entry in the mod contest. I pointed out VACC's requirements because in my opinion, they are exactly what the NIC has been looking for in an airgun and exactly what this design meets.

3.5/4. In order to meet VACC's requirement #2 (easily regulatable) you need an appropriate size air tank, an appropriate strength pump, or McMaster-Carr #48435K71 (thanks T3K for the part number).

5. I admit I have thought about VACC's reward and no, I don't think I deserve it under any circumstances (for starters, this isn't a submission to the contest). I just bring it up because I think it would be cool to offer it to 3DBBQ.


- - - Personal Statement - - -


For a long time I have looked for the cheap way out. Cheap pumps, cheap parts, not even willing to build a gun if it costs more than $15. Well frankly, that sucked. Most of my guns held up a few matches but in the end, it seems like (provided you are spending reasonably) the more you spend the more you get. Or, “you get what you pay for.” When I first started on this adventure I made a deal with myself to spend as much as necessary. I ended up spending $30, which all in all wasn't bad. And she works. Beautifully. So if you're sitting there thinking, “I can get by with crayola barrels,” then go back to third grade.

For example, I think that dolling out $6 for the check valve was definitely worth a trigger that worked. I know there are homemade air gun triggers out there, but this one was easy to make, and I don't see much that could go wrong. I mean, the whole point of a check valve is basically to be an inoperable trigger... we just make it operable.

...because these components are more or less designed for this very purpose, once bought they will function flawlessly, and will stand up to much more abuse than most other alternatives (including stock components).




#295714 Puget Sound Nerf War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 10 March 2011 - 12:02 AM in Nerf Wars

YES



#288509 Commlink Walkie Talkie

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 17 November 2010 - 02:20 AM in General Nerf

If you can figure out a way to make them easily removable, that would not only make them more versatile on the field, but perhaps even justify the cost as you wouldn't be limited to using them only for Nerf.



#288256 Sellers, Beware Of This Nerf Ebay Scam!

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 10 November 2010 - 11:49 PM in General Nerf

It is possible that the gun was removed from the box by a postal worker or other intermediary. It doesn't happen often, but it happens.

(and has happened to me once before for you nay-sayers out there. I was sending a gift to my cousin: Not only are they family but if they did lie, they didn't gain anything from it)

Regardless of what happened, sounds like you're getting the short end of the stick. Best of luck.



#286728 Effeminate Summer War Part 7

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 09 October 2010 - 02:24 PM in Nerf Wars

Sad that I missed it. Looks like you guys had a good time... and some crazy guns.

FYI, there is a Kinzie match tomorrow...



#285782 Minnesota Haloween Nerf Out

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 20 September 2010 - 06:52 PM in Nerf Wars

I hate you all.



#285274 Puget Sound Nerf War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 11 September 2010 - 12:49 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm in, and already need another car to hold everyone coming with me.

EDIT: Myself and 13 others will be there in our official University of Puget Sound 14-seater van.

SO EXCITED.



#284481 Effeminate Summer War Part 6

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 01 September 2010 - 12:01 AM in Nerf Wars

Myself and my army of freshman will be there rain or shine. Let's get muddied up.



#283507 Effeminate Summer War Part 6

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 19 August 2010 - 02:44 PM in Nerf Wars

So as it ends up, the freshman start their attack on Friday, which means they flood the breezeways with cardboard all weekend long. Since I'm the Coordinator for recycling services, guess who has to work this weekend?

I'll try and make the next one, and bring a bunch of freshman so we can teach them a lesson.



#282470 Hilt's War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 08 August 2010 - 03:45 PM in Nerf Wars

So that's... four people that would have showed up had we stuck around? Five?

And two that made it on time.

So much has changed since I left...

(EDIT/PS: This entire post is satirical)



#282367 Hilt's War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 07 August 2010 - 12:06 AM in Nerf Wars

Sweet. See everyone there. Hoping I can borrow some guns, but otherwise I'm content to run around and whack people with socks.



#281951 Hilt's War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 03 August 2010 - 10:58 AM in Nerf Wars

Ryan. Nobody cares. Just come and have fun.

(maybe if you were going to kick children instead, I would let this one go)



#280901 Hilt's War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 21 July 2010 - 06:11 PM in Nerf Wars

Anybody have 14" of PETG sized for stock darts they'd like to sell me?



#280438 Epic Summer War Part 4

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 16 July 2010 - 06:27 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm ready, I have a new gun dubbed "The Surgeon" which is going to amputate everyone, and I finally did my Raider the right way, so if all else fails then I have something to fall back on.

Prepare to be foamified.

EDIT: The person whose car I was supposed to borrow is unresponsive. Needless to say, I will hotwire her car if I have to, but I may be a little late.



#279794 Epic Summer War Part 4

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 08 July 2010 - 10:50 PM in Nerf Wars

Having voting at lunch sounds like a good compromise.

I have a car so I'm in for this one.



#279651 Epic Summer War Part 4

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 06 July 2010 - 06:59 PM in Nerf Wars

Just checking in as a maybe. I think I may have swindled a coworker into letting me use her car.

As far as a mod contest goes, I would recommend having the voting after the match, and only including blasters that made it the day. Because a lot of mods seems cool at first, but break pretty quickly. The one worry I have is that this may get confused with performance: We don't want a blaster to win just because it was frequently on the winning team, vice versa, etc.
Posted Image



#279648 Epic Summer War Part 5

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 06 July 2010 - 06:30 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm out for this one, I'll be back in MN. Still hoping to make the one on the 17th and the one after this (hopefully later than August 16th, that's when I get back *nudge nudge*).



#279647 Epic Summer War Part 5

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 06 July 2010 - 06:30 PM in Nerf Wars

Yes, me again, demanding attention. Actually, there was an internal server error, so I'm going to refer you to the next post I made (see below). Thank you.



#279646 Epic Summer War Part 5

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 06 July 2010 - 06:29 PM in Nerf Wars

Whoa shit. Triple post. That's never happened before. Sincerest apologies.



#279645 Hilt's War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 06 July 2010 - 06:21 PM in Nerf Wars

Mark your calenders: The 7th it is.

Thanks for the offer to help Ryan, I appreciate it. I'm hoping to learn a lot from these new ways of yours.

Though I may as well ask: I was going to bring home my longstrike, surgeon (a homemade BnA with hopper clip (pics up when it's painted)), and a pistol, will that suffice? In the ideal world I'd bring my entire arsenal, but suitcases are only so big...



#279583 Hilt's War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 06 July 2010 - 12:08 AM in Nerf Wars

So, I'm only going to be home for two and a half weeks this summer, and
1. I'd really like to catch up/shoot up all those MNers I've been missing. I don't expect anyone to come to the war *just for me,* but I will be there shooting things and everyone else should come join me.
2. I really need everybody's help, I'm out of my game and man, I don't want to get slaughtered at the next Kinzie war.
3. I owe Ryan a knuckle sandw--
4. I MISS YOU!!!

When: August 7th, 10 AM to whenever
Where: Highland Park/Juniper Lane, St. Paul 55116
What: Since Capture the Flag has sufficed for my school club for the past year, I'll need help with game types. I really only have a new version of zombies for you guys (and can't wait to see Ryan with a lightsaber again). Also, if things aren't happening, then I will make a decision and it will happen.
Rules: The usual. Don't be a douchebag; wear safety goggles; and if it hurts, don't use it.

Who:
- Me
- Beaver
- Eh, What?
- Nerf Bros
- Coffeepillow
- Venom
- Velveeta

Maybe:
- Atomatron
- Ficksterkid



#279232 Raw Material Question

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 01 July 2010 - 10:16 PM in General Nerf

As those above have stated you might try combining two methods. It occurs to me that taking a chunk of wood and holding it in place with expanding foam would work well. Expanding foam is easy to work with and shape, and in the right variety it will hold things in place. Like wood. And wood will thread.



#273899 Epic Summer War Part 2

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 02 May 2010 - 04:02 PM in Nerf Wars

MEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeee!!!

(Technically that was proper spelling since it was a quote, right?)

Assuming I can find a car. If I can't, and I take the bus to Seattle, can someone pick me up from there?



#273586 Epic Summer War Part 1

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 27 April 2010 - 11:47 PM in Nerf Wars

I see a disturbing lack of ball guns. I thought you guys were better than that.


For next time I wouldn't mind have a Ridiculous Weapons Round. Ballguns, Mavericks, Push-Pulls, other guns that suck, swords, shields, etc.



#273520 Epic Summer War Part 1

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 27 April 2010 - 01:20 AM in Nerf Wars

Sorry if you weren't in any of my photos! The photographer was donating her time, so we should be gracious. As well, it was only after lunch that I asked her to shoot.

When Dayko gets his photos up you may find more of your narcissistic selves. :)



#273393 Spano 2010

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 26 April 2010 - 12:21 PM in Nerf Wars

I'll be making it to this or Chano... I'm going to wait until the date is official/more people are official to make a call though.



#273367 Epic Summer War Part 1

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 26 April 2010 - 01:13 AM in Nerf Wars

Wow.

Thanks to Dayko for hosting, Tuna for buying, Sunshine for selling, and everybody else for everything else. That was truly a great start to what I'm sure will be an amazing summer. I'm already pumped for the next one.

Photos are courtesy of Lisa, wherever she is. The group photo is courtesy of someone I don't know (but thank you!). The whole album. A few favorites:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Dayko, I'm working on a way to send you the video I have of the Civil War. It's too big for e-mail, obviously, but I'm also finding it too big for most online hosts. I may split it in half -- PM me.



#273257 Puget Sound Nerf War

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 25 April 2010 - 03:10 AM in Nerf Wars

I'd be happy to host something, but we need a location. There's a sweet wooded area under a bridge by my school, but we'd lose darts like crazy. If you have any ideas post them here... let's just use this as a summer brainstorm thread for now, rather than starting a new thread. I'll get more involved in searching once my summer actually starts (May 14th is my last final, I believe).



#273206 Epic Summer War Part 1

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 24 April 2010 - 07:11 PM in Nerf Wars

I'm super pumped. We now have 6, total.

Dayko, do you need flags or flagging tape? The flags are legitimately flags and they stick in the ground. I have two colors of flagging tape. Reply by tomorrow, or I'll just throw them in the car... they aren't bulky or anything.



#272789 Epic Summer War Part 1

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 20 April 2010 - 02:51 PM in Nerf Wars

I now have 4 including myself, and a potential fifth.

I've never been to Marymoore before so I don't know of any "windmill area." Weird. No, just kidding... perhaps someone could post the coordinates, please? A search of Google's satellite map was unfruitful.

Dayko, I'm usually pretty good with finding my way around, but could you please PM me your cell # just in case? Thanks.



#272448 Longstrike Foregrip/shotgun Grip Mod

Posted by Flaming Hilt on 16 April 2010 - 11:49 PM in Modifications

Airsoftguy -- If you want to put it that way, yes. Personally, I like the look of the Longstrike infinitely better, and I find it much easier to modify. I could go on about pros and cons of each, but I think in the end it's just an opinion.

Airsoft/Broderick -- The University actually paid for this gun, so the $30 price tag was no obstacle for me. Admittedly, I find it mysteriously better than the deploy. It could be psychological.

Broderick/Alberty -- Using pipe with a larger diameter would put the foregrip parallel with the rest of the gun. I used what I had lying around from a previous project, but hopefully it is obvious how one would do it with a larger diameter pipe. Other than aesthetics, it works fine. I am absolutely not dissing the kits sold by other members here on the forums, but it is a much cheaper option (and aesthetically, you get what you pay for). Perhaps this will usher in a new era of foregrips: ones that are not level! ...perhaps not.

Thank you all for the constructive criticism. This will be at the Seattle war on the 25th.