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#278775 Tape Masking

Posted by hoshiadam on 27 June 2010 - 09:08 PM in Modifications

One thing that can help - after you put the mask on, after rolling it, do a coat of the base color before doing a coat of the design color. That way any leaks at the edge will already match the base color.



#178076 Hacksaw?

Posted by hoshiadam on 18 September 2008 - 08:43 AM in Modifications

For cutting brass, I've had good results using a jeweler's saw. Also works pretty well on plastic, but it doesn't have quite the work area behind the blade that a coping or hack saw does.



#157291 Paint Job

Posted by hoshiadam on 28 May 2008 - 03:53 PM in Modifications

Where is everyone getting vinyl dye at? I have yet to see any at all.


Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts tend to have them - auto parts stores are probably your best bet.



#140414 Nerf Recon Ar Removal

Posted by hoshiadam on 15 February 2008 - 08:08 AM in Modifications

Sup! Really good tutorial dude, but im having trouble re-assembling the thing. When I try to slip the dart sled back into place, all the parts pop out at once! And when i do finally get it in without disaster rearing its ugly head, i cant fit the other half of the shell on before it falls apart again! Please help me Umdlancer, your my only hope! :cry:


Try only threading the main spring around the plunger tube a few times, and have most of it sticking out. Then after you've got a few screws in place, screw the spring into the case. This makes it a lot easier to get back together.



#140195 Nerf Wii Blaster

Posted by hoshiadam on 14 February 2008 - 02:03 PM in General Nerf

If that's a nightfinder plunger tube by itself, that's got a lot of potential for integration.

hoshiadam



#140191 The Snap-4m

Posted by hoshiadam on 14 February 2008 - 01:41 PM in Homemades

For an alternate way of lining it up, couldn't you just rotate the trigger about 90 degrees around the plunger, then put a small turn in between the 90 degree bends? It would make it a handed gun probably (easier to fire left or right handed).

A better explanation (for left handed firing):
1. Rotate the trigger so when it is laying flat with the barrel on the right and plunger on the left, the trigger is on top of the plunger.

2. When holding it by the plunger tube, adjust the barrel so it is comfortable to hold the plunger and the barrel is level with the ground (by rotating the joint in between the 90 degree bends).

Not sure about the handedness - it would depend on the angle between the barrel and plunger.

hoshiadam



#138556 Recon Help!

Posted by hoshiadam on 04 February 2008 - 02:45 PM in Modifications

I tried that but I can't get the big spring at the back to stay in the case while I line up the rest of the case.


Place the spring so it is still around the plunger, but about half way out of the case. Then after you get the case together (before putting the black cap on), screw the spring all the way into the case. Might need pliers (or some other tool) to turn the spring in the final turn.

hoshiadam



#115671 Latest From Telekinetic Labs

Posted by hoshiadam on 13 July 2007 - 07:26 AM in Modifications

Another option is finding a long, low force Constant Force spring. The difficult part is getting the darts to go all the way up to the breech when the drum is nearly empty.

For the titan missiles:
1. Get a shaving cream can with a rubber plug at the bottom.
2. Empty it as best you can with the dispenser.
3. Poke in the rubber plug. Note that it is still pressurized, so shaving cream will come out of it.
4. After it stops leaking shaving cream, cut off the end and file the edge down till it is sharp.

Now you have a circular cutter that can cut several inches down (instead of being like a doorknob cutting saw, which typically only goes 2-3"). You might be able to find one a shaving cream can that is slightly smaller circumference than the orange titan barrel, that would be the best choice.

Adam



#115432 I Need Painting Help

Posted by hoshiadam on 11 July 2007 - 12:39 PM in Modifications

It was probably sticky because you didn't apply a laquer to seal it. Every time I paint, the same thing happens to me. Also here are some painting tips:

1. If you want tiger stripes cut out masking tape in the shape of stripes, and, after applying a base coat, put them on your gun and paint over that. Take off the take strips. Everything that was covered by the tape will be the base color, and will be striped over the second color:


Just to add another tip to this - if you are applying masking tape to a rough surface, or really any surface where the edges of the mask aren't sticking well, put a light coat of the base coat on after taping. This helps seal the edges of the mask, so when you put on the top coat, the top coat doesn't bleed through under the mask. Makes for much cleaner lines.

Adam



#108333 Replacement Springs

Posted by hoshiadam on 30 May 2007 - 03:00 PM in Modifications

I think a stack of ring magnets (on a non-magnetic post), with alternating poles, might work. Essentially replacing the spring with magnets that repel each other as they get closer. Probably more expensive than springs though, and I'm not sure of the benefits of it overall.

Adam



#108259 Crossfire Trouble

Posted by hoshiadam on 29 May 2007 - 08:13 PM in Modifications

ok thanks thats what I thought but I don't have any brass. Anyone know where to get it/ if K&S online is any good?


McMaster Carr. Search for Brass, then click on tubing, then round. The part numbers you are looking for start with 8859.

Adam



#107246 Longshot Help

Posted by hoshiadam on 23 May 2007 - 08:37 AM in Modifications

Now I have another problem, when I load a clip it is under the plunger-thingy and not in the right position, like so:

How can I fix this?


Are you able to pull the plunger back any farther? Are the top tabs of the clip resting on the bottom of the chamber (plunger-thingy), or are they just below it but not touching it. I'd guess the reason it isn't going in far enough is paint - on some longshots, you have to give the clip a quick pop to get them all the way in. Add in paint friction, and it might be too difficult.

Adam



#74936 Who Are You?

Posted by hoshiadam on 02 March 2006 - 04:58 PM in General Nerf

Gearhead here also. More like newbie gearhead though.

I don't think I'll ever attend a nerf war, but I'll probably use one of the weapons I've modded in a scifi larp at some point. Or to scare off small animals.

Adam



#72743 Holsters & Ammo Holders

Posted by hoshiadam on 09 February 2006 - 09:54 PM in Modifications

Another way to create ammo holders is to attach some elastic straps to a piece of leather or the side the gun, loops just slightly smaller than the dart. Can easily sew the elastic onto a belt or bandoleer also. I usually use 1/4" or 3/8" wide elastic bands.

Adam



#72596 Any Tips On The Ix-3 Scout?

Posted by hoshiadam on 07 February 2006 - 04:27 PM in Modifications

If it is rattling side to side or up and down, you could put some mounting tape inside the case, then cover it with electrical tape.

Adam



#71977 Computer/nerf Project

Posted by hoshiadam on 31 January 2006 - 07:25 AM in Homemades

It should be noted that USB bus can source up to 500mA, not 500mW. However you'll have to watch out for power requirements of other devices on the bus - it is limited to 500mA total.

A simple way to make it multi-shot would be to use a low power motor like a winch - have it wind a cord around, pulling the plunger back until the gun is cocked, then let it spin free. With that, you could use something like the Maverick for the base, and get 6 shots. Wouldn't be rapid fire, but it could work. You can vary the size of the axel the cord is being wrapped around, and the speed of the motor, to get different power requirements.

Adam



#71524 Home Made Crossbow?

Posted by hoshiadam on 23 January 2006 - 07:16 AM in Homemades

I know it's a little off-topic, but I've also been thinking about that.  For my game, I'm just using padded homemade arrows on a 30-draw fiberglass bow.  If you have a picture of your crossbow I'd love to see it.


I have personally seen these in action, and they are pretty good. He also makes a double crossbow of similar design.

Adam



#71480 Home Made Crossbow?

Posted by hoshiadam on 22 January 2006 - 05:08 PM in Homemades

If you aren't getting any potential energy from the arms of the bow (they aren't flexing), instead getting the potential energy from an elastic cord, something like a speargun might work better. There's no advantage to having the elastic cord farther out from the end of the barrel.

That said, I've seen a homemade crossbow made from glued together legos and a bungee cord. It worked pretty well.

Surgical tubing should work for the propulsion, or bungee cords. With a home made plunger and sufficient tubing, it could work well. Be sure to balance the elastic on each side, so it puts less strain on the plunger tube.

Adam



#70968 Please Read: Spherical Ammo.

Posted by hoshiadam on 13 January 2006 - 09:47 PM in General Nerf

Polyethylene can come in solid and foam versions. Mcmaster-carr could provide for some interesting materials for alternate ammo types. They've got several types of foam rod, different tube materials, and some other types of glue.

Adam



#70966 Please Read: Spherical Ammo.

Posted by hoshiadam on 13 January 2006 - 09:38 PM in General Nerf

HDPE isn't foam. It is the stuff that cutting boards are made out of.

Adam



#70964 Ultimator Ammo

Posted by hoshiadam on 13 January 2006 - 09:13 PM in Homemades

You could take a piece of copper pipe, file down the edge a little till it is sharp, and push it through a noodle. The resulting inner core wouldn't have the smooth outside of FBR, which probably would degrade the performance a bit, but you could get the color that way.

Adam



#70943 Where To Buy Modding Materials

Posted by hoshiadam on 13 January 2006 - 04:29 PM in Modifications

PETG: McMaster-Carr Doesn't have it in 1/16" steps, but does have it in 1/8" step sizes. Search for PETG Tubes. Comes in multiples of 6 feet.

Adam



#70934 Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle

Posted by hoshiadam on 13 January 2006 - 03:02 PM in Modifications

Some cheap fabric would probably work to stop the rounds from piercing all the way through the carboard. And it would be easy to spray glue on. At worst, the cardboard might split, but the rounds won't tear the cloth.

Or just switch to 1/4" birch plywood for the shields.

Adam



#70868 Discs

Posted by hoshiadam on 12 January 2006 - 02:26 PM in Homemades

Trying different size wheels might be good also - the amount of momentum they will create in the discs is dependent on the RPM of the motor and the size of the wheel (or basically the speed the outer edge of the wheel is moving at).

As far as discs - are these the little ~2" discs that fire from the small battery powered guns? I would think those might be too light for something like this. A possible solution would be to take the swimming pool toys (Fun Noodles I think), cut them down to a smaller thickness with a band saw, and cover them with tape. That allows you to have custom sizes. If they are thick enough, probably about 0.5" or thicker, you can weight them by poking holes in a circle around the edges (weight near the outside will keep it more stable in flight if it is spinning) and filling it with some hot glue and bb's or fishing weights.

Might be able to get them to have some spin by having the wheels not quite in the center - if they are both slightly off center to the same side, it should create a little spin.

Adam



#70790 Hornet Stock

Posted by hoshiadam on 11 January 2006 - 04:29 PM in Modifications

I was thinking internally (between the top and bottom PVC pieces, but that works also.



#70785 Hornet Stock

Posted by hoshiadam on 11 January 2006 - 04:09 PM in Modifications

Could you make the stock large enough to hold extra ammo? It looks like it could right now, and that might be a nice use of the extra space.

Adam



#70526 Please Read: Spherical Ammo.

Posted by hoshiadam on 06 January 2006 - 10:19 AM in General Nerf

Actionball has foam balls used in paintball guns available. About $0.50 per ball though. I've seem them, they are pretty soft. Never felt one shot from a paintball gun though.

For homemade balls, that can be weighted easily, why not try crayola Model Magic foam? I've seen unweighted ones used in the same situations as Actionball. They are used in spring guns.

Adam



#70525 Colored Stefans

Posted by hoshiadam on 06 January 2006 - 10:04 AM in General Nerf

It looks like FBR is used in log home construction also. This site has white FBR available in 10' lengths, 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8".

Adam



#70403 Bayonets

Posted by hoshiadam on 04 January 2006 - 08:46 AM in General Nerf

If you do build a bayonet, you should probably make it entirely of foam. Especially if you intend to thrust with it. You can get sheet foam, glue two layers of it together, bevel the edges and shape it to however you want, and it has potential to only look a little strange. For the axe pistol, it might not look to bad. Cover it with duct tape, it will make the foam last longer.

Or you could order a latex melee weapon from here and use that if your war allowed melee weapons. Just have a decent sheath to draw it fast. And don't thrust with that particular variety, they are made for slashing.

Adam



#70144 Archery

Posted by hoshiadam on 30 December 2005 - 01:13 PM in Off Topic

Only with boffer arrows, at friends.

Adam



#70102 When Titans Fall

Posted by hoshiadam on 29 December 2005 - 03:51 PM in Modifications

One more possible idea, to build a new seal.

Lube the pin first, then wrap the pin with electrical tape, sticky side out. Only use a small strip. If you are good with tape cutting, make the strip so it tapers down a little over the length - wider at first and then gets smaller as it is wrapped. Once the tape is about 1/8" thick or more, glue it down to the tank, taking care not to get glue too close to the pin. If the leak is small, the tape might provide a tight enough seal around the pin, and will be customized to the shape of the pin. Just make sure that as the glue is drying, you move the pin a little while keeping the tape in place. Also, roll the top edge of the tape outward, so the pin is sliding into a funnel shape. That should prevent the tape from sticking to the pin if the lube dries out.

You could even start with a more slippery tape also, but I think the electrical tape combined with a silicone lube would probably be slick enough to not interfere with the pin motion. A rubber that could be wrapped around the pin would probably work best, but I couldn't think of an easy source for that.

Testing the lube and tape together before doing it might be a good idea also, to make sure they don't react oddly.

Adam



#70091 Any Other Guns Like This?

Posted by hoshiadam on 29 December 2005 - 02:01 PM in General Nerf

The Splitfire might qualify, depending on how exclusive your criteria are. Since you can shoot both shots at once without pumping in between, it's a hybrid between all at once and single shot.

Adam



#70083 When Titans Fall

Posted by hoshiadam on 29 December 2005 - 09:35 AM in Modifications

Since I don't have one in front of me to look at, I'm not sure if this is good advice or not - but if the lube doesn't work, could you take the pin out, and apply some electrical tape or a thin layer of epoxy the thicken the pin, then relube it and put it back together?

Another possibility, if there is enough clearance, would be to add an o-ring to the outside and squish it flat. Drill a hole slightly larger than the pin in a thin piece of plastic, then make a slit to slide the plastic piece onto the pin. Get an o-ring that fits around the pin, put it on the pin, then sandwich it between the thin plastic and the back of the tube. Epoxy the thin plastic to the tube, then lube up the o-ring and you've basically built a new seal on it.

Adam



#70021 Bayonet

Posted by hoshiadam on 28 December 2005 - 09:09 AM in Homemades

Instead of pvc and pipe foam, I'd recommend making it entirely out of foam. Use camp pad or something similar - sheet foam that is somewhat rigid. Glue two layers together and then you can shape it to look like a blade on the end. Painting it can be difficult at times - if you want it to look decent get some Plasti-Dip and build up a coating with that, then paint it with acrylic paint.

Adam



#69676 Silencer Report

Posted by hoshiadam on 21 December 2005 - 04:28 PM in Darts and Barrels

It could be state or local laws, or some other section of the US code. I was curious, which is why I did the searching. Didn't mean to come off harsh, if I did.

Might not be a bad idea to check with local police about it, and be sure to get contact information about who you talk to.

Back to the discussion - were the holes spiraled around the barrel, or straight lines? I've seen paintball barrels that have spiral holes in them to give the ball some spin for extra distance. I wonder if something similar would work in this case.

Adam



#69665 Silencer Report

Posted by hoshiadam on 21 December 2005 - 02:00 PM in Darts and Barrels

Definition of a silencer:

18 USC sec. 921(a)(24)  "The term 'firearm silencer' or
    'firearm muffler' means any device for silencing, muffling,
    or diminishing the report of a portable firearm, including
    any combination of parts, designed or redesigned, and
    intended for use in assembling or fabricating a firearm
    silencer or firearm muffler, and any part intended only for
    use in such assembly or fabrication."


The definition of "firearm" (TITLE 18 > PART I > CHAPTER 44 > § 921)

The term “firearm” means
(A ) any weapon (including a starter gun) which will or is designed to or may readily be converted to expel a projectile by the action of an explosive;
(B ) the frame or receiver of any such weapon;
(C ) any firearm muffler or firearm silencer; or
(D ) any destructive device. Such term does not include an antique firearm.


Going by those two definitions, a silencer for a nerf gun is legal, I believe. Nerf guns are not firearms, and therefore the National Firearms Act doesn't apply to nerf gun silencers.

Adam



#69595 Lubricants Of Choice

Posted by hoshiadam on 20 December 2005 - 09:23 AM in General Nerf

For a LARP pistol I use, baby powder will help in the barrel sometimes. It should reduce friction for darts also, depending on the fit of the dart. It also cuts down on moisture in the barrel, which might help a little. And it will create a bit of 'smoke' coming out of the gun if you put too much in.

Adam



#69593 At3k Pump Handle...

Posted by hoshiadam on 20 December 2005 - 08:48 AM in Modifications

Athletic tape or electrical tape for a simple way. Plasti-dip or Tool Dip to make a real grip. I've seen black athletic tape at times.

You could also go for a tennis racket grip wrap, or golf club handle wrap.



#69201 New (i Think) Homemade Concepts

Posted by hoshiadam on 14 December 2005 - 01:40 PM in Homemades

Really?  They work for me.  What is wrong with them?  Do you get something like "THIS PAGE CANNOT BE DISPLAYED" when you click on the links or something?  Photobucket has always worked in the past.

Have you tried logging out and trying to view the pictures? Seems like they aren't public. I tried a few things, kept bringing me back to a login screen.

Adam



#69133 Question About The Far

Posted by hoshiadam on 13 December 2005 - 09:07 AM in Homemades

I would think the FAR might make a decent shotgun for airsoft. In each cartridge, put a thin foam cap on the bottom, fill with airsoft bb's, and then another foam cap. Having never done airsoft, I'm not sure how well it would work.

Adam