- → Paloose's Content
There have been 141 items by Paloose (Search limited from 11-September 93)
If you're going to want to stretch the spring (ie if you have no other springs on hand) you should definitely "heat treat it" using a propane torch or some other tool. This keeps the spring at the stretched length and keeps it from deforming. True, if you stretch the spring (without treating it), performance will increase by a good amount, but as you use the blaster, its performance will decrease quite a bit as the spring deforms.
I wouldn't recommend trying to heat treat a spring on your own unless you've had training in the process and a whole lot of practice. Heat treating and tempering is a pretty complex process that even professional blacksmiths screw up from time to time, and without computer aided forges/kilns and quench tanks it all comes down to rules of thumb. Do yourself a favor and just buy a new spring.
To take the stresses out of the metal we normalize the metal by raising it to a temperature so that the steel loses its magnetism and then we let the material air cool and repeat the process twice more. This anneals the metal, makes the steel very soft in comparison to having been work hardened by moving it around through bending, striking, or any other form of manipulation.
On the third heat, after the steel has lost magnetism, quench the metal in water, oil, or brine until it becomes cool to the touch. This process makes the metal hard but brittle, and without the normalizing process you risk stressing the metal so much that it warps or shatters on you.
After you have quenched the metal to make it hard, the next step is to temper the steel so that you draw back some of the springiness of the material and you lose some of the brittleness. A conventional or toaster oven works fine for the tempering process, and the traditional way of telling when its done is to look for the heat color spectrum as it appears on polished steel. Polished steel, when heated gradually, will turn colors from bright steel, to yellow, all the way through blues and purples. Generally in tool making we quench whatever tool we're making when it obtains a straw color, but different colors are used for different purposes.
So, I guess what I'm trying to say is that heat treating is a pretty complex process, and frankly I'm surprised that you managed to keep the temper in your spring. Although the process of winding the spring may have work hardened the wire enough to act as a spring. Just my input though, take it or leave it.
I can tell you right now that if anyone hits me with the buttstock of their weapon than someone's gonna get punched in the dick.
I've heard rumors of people using galvenized pipe for a stronger core, but you'd want to be more careful as it's heavier. I've also heard of people using fiberglass kite poles duct taped together.
I disagree. I used 1/2" PVC on 1/2" PVC with my friend and they shattered.
I've only ever used 1/2" and 3/4" pvc as a core so I couldn't tell you how well the others hold up.
kossaxx, It looks like you use pvc elbows as your crossguards. Honestly, I'd reccomend against it. Everytime I've used a joint in my weapons it always presents a weak point for a breakage. All of the force behind a swing will be exerted on that one joint. But if it works for you, it works for you. I've always found crossguards made of built up campers sleeping rolls to be satisfactory.
Dangaard, the weapons look sweet, diggin the purple.
I'd pick just one or the other, not both. I'm a big advocate of 17/32" brass tubing if you have access to it. You might even be able to get away with using 1/2" brass without the dart fishtailing.
I think I'll shorten it by a couple inches (I'm sure to get streamlines shortly) and add the stub of Crayola.
If you haven't cut off the barrel stub yet the 17/32" slides right in, and all you need to do is glue a 1/2" pvc coupler onto the base of the original barel stub.
That way you have the tight brass, sheathed with pvc so you don't have to worry about denting your barrel.
"The Killing Joke" says that the Joker fell into the waste vats of the Ace Chemical Processing Plant. I don't know if chemical waste counts as acid, but it may. However "The Killing Joke" is not an official part of the Batman universe, but it is widely accepted as the origins of the Joker. You may also want to read "The Man Who Laughs" if you can find a copy. The Long Halloween was good, but I'm not to big into mysteries.
Harvey dent was disfigured by a vile of acid to the face while prosecuting a crime boss. Joker, as the red hood, fell into a vat of acid while being persued by batman. And to tell me that the origins found in the animated series are better than anything written in comics is just silly. Go read Year One, or Long Halloween.
Word is, you can soak the pumpkins in water for a couple of hours if they start to get a little limp.
For the people that kept there pumpkins; wouldn't it rot or is there some way to preserve it?
Are you just using a steel blank and using stock removal to make the blades? Because if you are than I've found that using old worn-out files work wonders for the blade's blank. Since they already come with a tang you only need to peen it over the pommel, and grind edges and a point onto it. If you get one old enough you may not even need to heat treat it.
Shit, bags. Not you too. Why are all of you addicted to Pokemon?
As for what I do in my spare time: make knives (just starting with some fixed blades, but I'll be doing a switchblade soon),
It happens, man.
Whoa! That was wierd. My computer was showing that you reposted about 10 times.
Mabey. Last season i missed nationals by about 2 points. Damn highbar, I only scored a 5.1.Good man, I practice for 18 hours a week in that noble sport. Needless to say it takes up most of my time. Other than that I read Batman comics, collect battle-ready swords, and do some fencing.
Lets see I wakeboard, kneeboard, intertube, swim, gymnastics, bike, kayak, and canoe.
Yup, level 10, but please the questions are getting excessive.
Dude, that's awsome. It's really cool to see another gymnast on NH. Me, Hierarchy, and the other 4 of us thought we were the only Nerfer/gymnasts. Level 10 here too. Maybe we'll compete together at nationals someday.
The Mackinac race starts in my hometown every year, but I mostly stay out of town that night to avoid traffic.
For all those sailors out there, if you haven't been traking the Mackinac race, then here is the link. The website has a GPS tracking system, so you can keep track of every boat.
Tracking is under "Results" at the top of the page.
Good man, I practice for 18 hours a week in that noble sport. Needless to say it takes up most of my time. Other than that I read Batman comics, collect battle-ready swords, and do some fencing.
Lets see I wakeboard, kneeboard, intertube, swim, gymnastics, bike, kayak, and canoe.
Clean. I can't figure out between all of these write-ups whether brass or CPVC is the better barrel material, or if it's mostly personal preference/budget.
Barrel choice is always a matter of personal preference. Only you can tell what barrel material fits your darts.
Brass is better for range.
CPVC is much cheaper.
Not necessarily, clips also include stripper clips as well. Some guns require the stripper clip to be inserted with the rounds (M1 Garand), but in others the clip simply speeds the process up (Mauser C96). In the case of most magazine using rifles (M16), clips can be used to quickly load the magazines which are then placed in the actual firearm.
Clips reload magazines and become part of the firing of the gun with out the clip the gun cannot fire, (the M1 Garand uses this system) like the Magstrike because the dart is already held withing its own barrel.
PPSh-41's didn't have a foregrip or a pistol grip with its stock. You just hold onto the magazine and it has a traditional semi-pistol grip stock.
Actually, I think it looks more like a PPSh-41 than a Thompson, just because of the drum mag...
Just my $0.02.
It would have been sweet if you had put finger grooves in the front grip. Nice work nonetheless.
It's currently on a Tippmann 98 paintball gun body:
I used to do this before I got into NERF. I took a length of 1/2" pvc and put 3/4"pipe insulation over that, and secured it with duct tape. I could make anything from a Russian Bardiche to a Scottish claymore complete with downsloping quillions.
It's mostly info about our meetings right now, but there are some articles on Boffer Construction coming soon from some people in the group who can do amazing stuff with duct tape and foam.
I personally prefer the hand-and-a half. What do you use?
I would like to see a variant of the front gun of the LS come with the game with some sort of a 2-shot loading mechanism. Like the DS, but in a pump-action version.
I personally would like to see a shotgun that uses LS clips.
Look at what they did with the scout. They essensially reworked it with a better spring and threw on a turret, and the maverick was born. Why wouldn't they do the same thing now?
I wasn't even talking about a turret as it may mess up the gun's clean look. When I made the post I was thinking a singled 2k.
Sounds like something Falcon would do, being the turret junkie that he is... However, the range and power of not only one, but multiple quickly-reloading back-up shots is something that would make this worthwhile.