One of the best pranks I've ever heard of (HEARD of, not done myself), was this: For a few months, this guy would show up at work early, open up his co-worker's phone handset, tape a small weight inside, then close it again. The increments were small enough that the guy never noticed. He would just pick up the phone as quickly as ever. After a while, the phone was a good 2 or 3 pounds heavier than normal. Finally, he took all the weights out. Sure enough, first phone call of the day, this fellow grabbed the phone and bashed himself in the face!
I love pranks like that.
You might want to head on over to Prank.org
Not everything is great there, but there are certainly a lot of ideas floating around.
davidbowie's Content
There have been 422 items by davidbowie (Search limited from 03-December 96)
#102266 High School Pranks...
Posted by
on 15 April 2007 - 06:08 PM
in
Off Topic
#96196 Need Help Planning
Posted by
on 10 December 2006 - 12:36 AM
in
Homemades
A combustion pistol would not be dangerous, unless you were a complete idiot with it.
It wouldn't be much more compact than any other design, though, and I wouldn't count on the fuel staying mixed for very long.
It wouldn't be much more compact than any other design, though, and I wouldn't count on the fuel staying mixed for very long.
#95754 Snowstorms
Posted by
on 02 December 2006 - 02:09 PM
in
Off Topic
Got a lot of sleet, then some snow, that melted, then froze over, then more snow. Result: First snow day in like 5 years. Unfortunately, ice coated all the tree branches, knocking many down. The individual power and phone lines to my house got knocked out, then the transformer exploded. My parents decided to move us into a hotel until we can heat the house again, because it's getting pretty cold at night. Not my decision, but I'm not complaining. Free hot breakfast.
#90398 Mythbusters
Posted by
on 24 September 2006 - 09:13 PM
in
General Nerf
Alright, now here's a REAL myth, one that any HQ readers will agree is worth proving. A restrictor, o-ring, and spring modded 100'-110' average NiteFinder. There was one trustworthy member who posted a 100' NF, whose name escapes me right now. I don't doubt it shot 100', but I still think that the sheer volume of range claims for this gun merits real "urban myth" status.
#89841 Unique L'nl Mod
Posted by
on 16 September 2006 - 07:22 PM
in
Modifications
PEX uses the CTS system, so its sizes are pretty close to those of CPVC. That should make it pretty easy to compare, as I'm sure you've all used CPVC.
#89839 High Powered Pistol(s)
Posted by
on 16 September 2006 - 07:17 PM
in
Homemades
Function beats fashion, but the function is pretty well taken care of in that mod already. I agree than cosmetics would be a cool next step, but they would be utterly useless if you've already got a functional blaster.
I think that the Snapper design could easily reach 100' if built properly. The springs have at least 3/4" or 1" of unused travel that I can easily compress, and these are both 25 lb springs. That means quite a bit of possible force being wasted by careless spring-stop placement. The barrel is also most definitely not the proper length, not to mention I've only ever used stock suction darts in it. Also, the seal washer was cut fairly sloppily and the pull handle is unnecessarily large. With a good barrel/dart combo and stefans, better seal, lighter pull-knob, plastic catchface, proper PC and barrel lengths, and careful construction, I don't think the snapper would have any problems reaching 100'. *Sighs*. Yet another thing I have to do.
I think that the Snapper design could easily reach 100' if built properly. The springs have at least 3/4" or 1" of unused travel that I can easily compress, and these are both 25 lb springs. That means quite a bit of possible force being wasted by careless spring-stop placement. The barrel is also most definitely not the proper length, not to mention I've only ever used stock suction darts in it. Also, the seal washer was cut fairly sloppily and the pull handle is unnecessarily large. With a good barrel/dart combo and stefans, better seal, lighter pull-knob, plastic catchface, proper PC and barrel lengths, and careful construction, I don't think the snapper would have any problems reaching 100'. *Sighs*. Yet another thing I have to do.
#89775 Longshot Grenade Launcher
Posted by
on 15 September 2006 - 04:25 PM
in
Modifications
If you could put it into the front gun, mounted gripless under the barrel, and have it either fire or pump with the cocking handle, it would be very cool.
#89442 One-pump Titan
Posted by
on 10 September 2006 - 11:27 AM
in
Modifications
If you could mount the pump with the base at the muzzle, with an RSCB, it would be VERY cool. You could drop the base to the ground and pump like it was intended, while the tilt would load the RSCB. If you didn't want to pump on the ground, you could just pump it like a normal titan which would provide the downward angle and take less time.
If you do keep it in its current mount, though, I'd recommend using a pump with a rigid base, not the folding metal stirrups. The $8 Husky stand up pump from home depot is a good example of this. if you add a little padding, the base makes a great stock, both for aiming and as a firm platform for pumping. I recently made an arm-mounted portable strafer that uses this pump in said configuration, and it works extremely well. I can also drop it to the ground and pump faster.
If you do keep it in its current mount, though, I'd recommend using a pump with a rigid base, not the folding metal stirrups. The $8 Husky stand up pump from home depot is a good example of this. if you add a little padding, the base makes a great stock, both for aiming and as a firm platform for pumping. I recently made an arm-mounted portable strafer that uses this pump in said configuration, and it works extremely well. I can also drop it to the ground and pump faster.
#89247 Longshot "shotgun" Foregrip
Posted by
on 06 September 2006 - 10:50 PM
in
Modifications
Polycarbonate is Lexan. Lexan is just a brand name.
#89235 Briefcase Interagation
Posted by
on 06 September 2006 - 08:31 PM
in
Modifications
I think it'd be better to use a pull valve (2k valve or similar) stuck directly to the barrel, but at a right angle. Then, use wire to extend the pull-rod all the way up to the handle, where you can put a loop or trigger to fire from the regular handle. You could set up more than one of these in the same briefcase, adding more triggers on the grip. You could then connect all the tanks to one pump (double-acting would be nice), with an input check valve on each tank to ensure consistant power.
#89146 New Longshot Mod/integration
Posted by
on 05 September 2006 - 07:12 PM
in
Modifications
Here's a corny name: NiteLoser
"Nite" comes from the sneaky color scheme (if you do indeed paint it), and "Loser" comes from how the LS was originally supposed to be somewhat of a Nerf asshole rifle, which we all know is in fact a loser rifle. Also, since "lose" is the opposite of "find", "loser" is the opposite of "finder", making the name a horrible pun on "NiteFinder"
"The Sturge" also has a nice ring to it.
"Nite" comes from the sneaky color scheme (if you do indeed paint it), and "Loser" comes from how the LS was originally supposed to be somewhat of a Nerf asshole rifle, which we all know is in fact a loser rifle. Also, since "lose" is the opposite of "find", "loser" is the opposite of "finder", making the name a horrible pun on "NiteFinder"
"The Sturge" also has a nice ring to it.
#89104 Jspb-workshop
Posted by
on 05 September 2006 - 03:28 PM
in
Homemades
Thats dumb, how would you know that it works?
I see no contradiction here. You wanna run that by us again?
#89060 Attaching Guns
Posted by
on 04 September 2006 - 09:28 PM
in
Modifications
Well, I find it kind of ironic that you glued the attachment system on OVER the built in attachment rail.
The best option in general would be to take the green part out of a CF slide (rail clip), and attach that to your LBB.
Given that you already hacked off the bottom of the NF handle so as to attach it to the bottom of another handle, though, I think you should definitely just integrate it into your LBB in the same way. That is, glue it to the bottom of the LBB handle so you can fire with your pinky.
While you're at it, you might as well put on another removeable NF where you have yours now. It's a good location too.
If you want another shot, carry another NF in a holster.
About your current system:
1) What's keeping the NF from getting tilted up or down?
2) If you do stay with this system, I'd recommend keeping the cpvc coupling, but using 1/2" PEX instead of 1/2" CPVC. It's a hair thinner, and a bit less grippy. It would still be a firm, strong fit, but much easier to pull out.
And, finally, a question:
Wouldn't it be better to have an even higher-ROF blaster on there? I'm thinking maybe a Mustang Six with a pivot mount on the cocking handle, so you could speed-fire with one hand.
The best option in general would be to take the green part out of a CF slide (rail clip), and attach that to your LBB.
Given that you already hacked off the bottom of the NF handle so as to attach it to the bottom of another handle, though, I think you should definitely just integrate it into your LBB in the same way. That is, glue it to the bottom of the LBB handle so you can fire with your pinky.
While you're at it, you might as well put on another removeable NF where you have yours now. It's a good location too.
If you want another shot, carry another NF in a holster.
About your current system:
1) What's keeping the NF from getting tilted up or down?
2) If you do stay with this system, I'd recommend keeping the cpvc coupling, but using 1/2" PEX instead of 1/2" CPVC. It's a hair thinner, and a bit less grippy. It would still be a firm, strong fit, but much easier to pull out.
And, finally, a question:
Wouldn't it be better to have an even higher-ROF blaster on there? I'm thinking maybe a Mustang Six with a pivot mount on the cocking handle, so you could speed-fire with one hand.
#89053 Jspb-workshop
Posted by
on 04 September 2006 - 08:33 PM
in
Homemades
It's all drag and drop.
You know that blank screen between the title and the parts? That's where you "draw". You're supposed to drag parts from the parts window into the smaller rectangle on the left, then go back to the blank screen. They will appear there.
You know that blank screen between the title and the parts? That's where you "draw". You're supposed to drag parts from the parts window into the smaller rectangle on the left, then go back to the blank screen. They will appear there.
#88922 New Longshot Mod/integration
Posted by
on 03 September 2006 - 06:53 PM
in
Modifications
This is definitely the highest cool-factor of any LS mod yet. If you can do the performance mods some other members have been doing, I'd say it would be the most practical as well.
It's disturbingly clean. Seriously, this looks like a stock blaster.
It's disturbingly clean. Seriously, this looks like a stock blaster.
#88878 New Caution Label?
Posted by
on 03 September 2006 - 12:02 PM
in
Modifications
Well, you beat me. Excellent explanation.
Basically, the warning label is there, just like any other warning label, to keep idiots from blaming the company for what they do.
Basically, the warning label is there, just like any other warning label, to keep idiots from blaming the company for what they do.
#88877 My B.b.b.b.r(big Bad Bow Battle Rifle)
Posted by
on 03 September 2006 - 11:59 AM
in
Modifications
If you could integrate the tube mag into that rail/carry handle swoop, it would be unbelievably cool.
As it is, it's just plain awesome.
How does it look while cocked?
As it is, it's just plain awesome.
How does it look while cocked?
#88850 Has Any One Ever Heard Of Buzz Bee Toys?
Posted by
on 03 September 2006 - 01:09 AM
in
General Nerf
What makes them a conglomerate? As far as I know, they're just one company, not buying out anybody else.
Also, I'm a little curious how you managed to break a DS by dropping it on the grass.
Also, I'm a little curious how you managed to break a DS by dropping it on the grass.
#88849 New Caution Label?
Posted by
on 03 September 2006 - 01:04 AM
in
Modifications
FH, did you just pull out the particle/wave theory for this? I'm pretty sure that rays are just the general word we use for light, um, goings-on. Photons and waves stay together as far as I know. I think it's a bit simpler than that anyway. UVA and UVB are both UV. Visible light is (by definition) NOT UV. The sun puts out a lot of visible light, as well as UV. Tinting against UV doesn't obscure vision, because the light that it's blocking isn't visible. Tinting out visible light requires blocking out the light that allows you to see. So, unless the glasses are opaque (TACTICAL DISADVANTAGE OMG) or very visibly dark-tinted, there's going to be a lot of visible light getting through there. If you look at the sun, the glasses won't protect your eyes.
#88841 My First Homemade
Posted by
on 02 September 2006 - 10:25 PM
in
Homemades
well not to be mean but if you read the original post i made i was asking for advice before i go on and price the materials i need.
Yes. And he, not being mean either, gave you that advice.
Start small. It just can't be said enough.
#88840 Sprinkler Valve Q's
Posted by
on 02 September 2006 - 10:22 PM
in
Homemades
I don't recommend using a sprinkler valve in a nerf gun, it could provide enough power to seriously injure someone
It's all an issue of gun design. Sprinkler valves aren't more "powerful" than the usual bunch. They are more efficient. The power doesn't come from the valve itself, but from the air. With a given chamber, a more efficient valve will lead to more power, but that's no reason to use a less efficient valve. You can get any amount of power you want with any valve by varying the chamber volume, pressure, and barrel length. A sprinkler-valve gun will only injure someone if you give it the proper setup to do so.
So, instead of using a "less powerful" valve, it'd be better to keep the idea of using a modded sprinkler valve. It will need a smaller chamber for any desired performance, which means less pumping and more pwnage.
#88836 Pool Noodle Shooter
Posted by
on 02 September 2006 - 10:11 PM
in
Homemades
Nice!
You're going to have to pump that seam full of hot glue if you want the missiles to hold together, but it shouldn't give you any problems afterwards.
Your missiles look WAY better than mine ever have.
You're going to have to pump that seam full of hot glue if you want the missiles to hold together, but it shouldn't give you any problems afterwards.
Your missiles look WAY better than mine ever have.
#88732 Will There Be A Bullpup Design In The N-strike Line?
Posted by
on 01 September 2006 - 05:17 PM
in
General Nerf
They could.
They could make a lot of things.
Instead, why don't YOU buy a LS, relocate the handle, extend the trigger mech, remove the stock stock (groan), and put on a new buttplate. That would make it a bullpup.
They could make a lot of things.
Instead, why don't YOU buy a LS, relocate the handle, extend the trigger mech, remove the stock stock (groan), and put on a new buttplate. That would make it a bullpup.
#88683 Pool Noodle Shooter
Posted by
on 31 August 2006 - 09:24 PM
in
Homemades
You'll probably want to put a bigger tank on, although you could do fine with what's on there already. What would probably help the most for noodles would be to put the e-tape ring right at the muzzle. Insulation would probably be better, though. The yellow jacket shot missiles about 50 feet with a much smaller tank and a 3/8" port ball valve, so I can't see why this shouldn't outperform a Titan.
#88373 Sucessfully Made A Ubs System
Posted by
on 26 August 2006 - 06:29 PM
in
Modifications
The UBS wasn't really determined by the fact that it was made of PETG with nested brass, but rather that it was designed to work on all of bags' guns. UBS stands for Universal Barrel System, so it's that Universal part that seperates the original UBS from just having a coupler breech and a lot of barrels. You haven't made a UBS, just a plain old BS.
#88225 Im Having Trouble
Posted by
on 24 August 2006 - 04:18 PM
in
General Nerf
Actually, i think there is something to what FH said. Even though the FAR's PC is about the same diameter as the spring, it's twice the diameter of the barrel. Since a bare spring isn't pushing any air, there's no relation between spring diameter and power. There will be very little difference in performance between 1" and 8" diameter springs of the same stroke and strength if they are directly pushing the dart.
A direct spring pushes the dart its own length of travel. A (larger-than-barrel-size) plunger puts out a large volume of air, which displaces an equal volume in the barrel, which will have a length much longer than the travel of the plunger. It acts much like a lever, except that the compressibility of air takes some of the immediate oomph out of it.
I think the best way to power a gun with a spring, period, would be to use a lever or block-and-tackle setup to give a direct spring higher speed and less torque. It would be like having a plunger gun with a 1:1 ideal ratio.
A direct spring pushes the dart its own length of travel. A (larger-than-barrel-size) plunger puts out a large volume of air, which displaces an equal volume in the barrel, which will have a length much longer than the travel of the plunger. It acts much like a lever, except that the compressibility of air takes some of the immediate oomph out of it.
I think the best way to power a gun with a spring, period, would be to use a lever or block-and-tackle setup to give a direct spring higher speed and less torque. It would be like having a plunger gun with a 1:1 ideal ratio.
#88062 Question About Mini Micro Stefans
Posted by
on 22 August 2006 - 03:44 PM
in
General Nerf
By "3/4 of an inch," do you mean you're using 3/4" FBR, or using 3/4" lengths of another size FBR?
#88061 New Effective Bullpup Design
Posted by
on 22 August 2006 - 03:39 PM
in
Homemades
The SNAP-4 has a magazine on it. That magazine is behind the grip.
Also, The Reaper was a bullpup.
The mechanism you're talking about would be kinda cool, but it's in no way required for a bullpup.
Also, The Reaper was a bullpup.
The mechanism you're talking about would be kinda cool, but it's in no way required for a bullpup.
#87995 Homemade Valve
Posted by
on 21 August 2006 - 03:29 PM
in
Homemades
threading a bolt through a rubber sheet.
I already use this for pretty much everything I can. The thing is, I want a main seal that will not leak, period, and won't need lube. For that, nothing beats two sealing faces pushing on each other.
#87930 What's Up With My 3b?
Posted by
on 20 August 2006 - 06:56 PM
in
General Nerf
It doesn't seem all that likely that the manufacturer would put in a defective spring. Maybe they didn't lube the plunger tube at all?
#87924 Homemade Valve
Posted by
on 20 August 2006 - 06:28 PM
in
Homemades
I think your valve is asleep.
The front-trigger looks alright. It would probably lose some air around the button when opened, just because of how bothersome that seal is going to be, but it shouldn't be a huge issue.
The rear-trigger, however, could be a bit of a problem. The operating rod seal would have to hold pressure perfectly, instead of just keeping the leak low.
I might look into this a bit myself. I've been looking for an air equivalent of the clothespin trigger (cheap, simple, universal, easy to build) for quite some time now.
The front-trigger looks alright. It would probably lose some air around the button when opened, just because of how bothersome that seal is going to be, but it shouldn't be a huge issue.
The rear-trigger, however, could be a bit of a problem. The operating rod seal would have to hold pressure perfectly, instead of just keeping the leak low.
I might look into this a bit myself. I've been looking for an air equivalent of the clothespin trigger (cheap, simple, universal, easy to build) for quite some time now.
#87876 Possible New Construction Material
Posted by
on 20 August 2006 - 10:13 AM
in
Homemades
Quite a few people have used lexan and plexiglass before, for things like magazine walls and other flat surfaces. It's pretty cool for magazines as you can see how many darts are inside. Outside of that, though, there isn't much advantage to using plexiglass as opposed to, say, PVC sheeting?
What exactly do you mean by making the "body, not innerds" out of plexiglass? I don't think anybody has ever bothered to make a seperate body and put internals inside like Nerf does.
What exactly do you mean by making the "body, not innerds" out of plexiglass? I don't think anybody has ever bothered to make a seperate body and put internals inside like Nerf does.
#87811 My First Solniod
Posted by
on 19 August 2006 - 01:22 PM
in
Homemades
I do what snazzy Q was talking about with a few cannons, except I've just got quick hands with a lightswitch.
I've never heard of the stock manual bleed destroying a diaphragm, but the biggest problem is that it's probably the slowest way ever to actuate a sprinkler valve.
I've never heard of the stock manual bleed destroying a diaphragm, but the biggest problem is that it's probably the slowest way ever to actuate a sprinkler valve.
#87792 Holsters: Right Or Left Leg?
Posted by
on 18 August 2006 - 06:52 PM
in
General Nerf
If you have your primary on a sling, you can just let go without having to worry about it.
FH, why not have a sidearm on each leg? That way, you can do whatever feels most natural at the time, without just grabbing air. You'll have an extra shot, to boot.
FH, why not have a sidearm on each leg? That way, you can do whatever feels most natural at the time, without just grabbing air. You'll have an extra shot, to boot.
#87587 Electronics + Nerf
Posted by
on 15 August 2006 - 10:39 PM
in
General Nerf
I think the best solution for the number of darts problem is to count the shots fired, rather than the shots remaining. You can have warning lights or something for the 5th, 6th, and 7th shots, because that will always be the max, but if you have a partially loaded clip, you can still keep track of how many shots are left, without having to do any on-the-run subtraction.
Instead of a mechanical switch to indicate a shot being fired, you might want to try mounting a photogate in part of the loose cosmetic barrel. It would be less prone to false alarms than some of the other setups proposed, and it wouldn't be in direct contact with any moving part of the gun, which seems a bit more reliable.
While I don't know the LS in and out, I'm pretty sure a lever microswitch could be easily mounted in the mag well to operate a reset function.
Instead of a mechanical switch to indicate a shot being fired, you might want to try mounting a photogate in part of the loose cosmetic barrel. It would be less prone to false alarms than some of the other setups proposed, and it wouldn't be in direct contact with any moving part of the gun, which seems a bit more reliable.
While I don't know the LS in and out, I'm pretty sure a lever microswitch could be easily mounted in the mag well to operate a reset function.
#87491 Electronics + Nerf
Posted by
on 15 August 2006 - 12:13 AM
in
General Nerf
The magstrike thing sounds interesting, but I think it would be much cooler if you could also do a little work with the innards. My idea is to disconnect the trigger from the valve it operates, and connect it to a microswitch. Then use a solenoid to operate the valve. You could have a mini keypad or a toggle switch that would change between semi and full auto. With the keypad, you could also select a certain burst length. You could even include a potentiometer to adjust the rate of fire (the valve wouldn't be held open, but opened and closed for each shot). This would be a whole lot easier if you used a microprocessor. The parallax BS1 is very cheap and would probably be all you would need.
#87485 The Bull
Posted by
on 14 August 2006 - 11:30 PM
in
Homemades
I spent maybe 5 hours on it. Most of this time was during the big St. Louis power outage about 3 weeks ago (you might have seen it on the news). I had no power for 3 days, so I went into the garage and started working on this with hand tools (the clothespin was drilled with a brace and bit!). If I had power tools, I could probably put one together in about an hour.
#87479 Emplaced Machine Gun Design
Posted by
on 14 August 2006 - 10:52 PM
in
Modifications
It sounds pretty cool. Pardon my lack of electronics knowledge, but would you need anything more than a simple pot to control the ROF? That would be pretty cool.
#87478 The Bull
Posted by
on 14 August 2006 - 10:48 PM
in
Homemades
After I knew the concealed clothespin worked, I started thinking about how best to use it. Eventually, I started thinking about the GNS, and decided to build something with roughly the same setup, only a clothespin trigger and all my standard internals.
Unlike everything I've built before, the gun is in two parts: the frame and the upper. The frame is based on a half-slice of 1 1/4" thinwall, with a 1" 3-section grip and trigger guard attached. The upper houses a foam-head plunger and all the trimmings, as well as a 1/2" PEX barrel. They are both housed inside the same length of pipe, which gives a beefier, less homemade look. Here is a picture of the gun:
Shadow does weird things with its appearance. The grip looks tapered in the photo, and the general shape is a bit skewed. It also doesn't convey the size of this gun. It's about maverick sized in real life, but a little bit longer and wider.
The Upper:
The upper is basically just a length of 1 1/4" PVC. There is a 1"x1/2" PVC bushing in the back to hold the spring, and another, with a ring of 1/2" CPVC coupler inserted, in the middle to stabilize the barrel.
The plunger is constructed like those in the Thing and Dragonfly, except that the sealing surface has been lengthened, and the endcap has been replaced with a balsa disk.
The barrel is held in by foam insulation. A long chunk fits between the barrel and chamber wall, sealing off the outside and keeping the barrel in place.
The Frame:
Here it is before all the bodywork.
You can see how everything is put together.
The pink thing on the left was the earlier form for the end of the trigger guard.
I've since added a guide screw to keep the trigger from flipping around like it's doing in the photo.
Construction:
Everything was made originally in PVC (except the end of the guard). I then coated the whole thing with spackling, forming the shape with a putty knife. After letting the spackling dry, I sanded everything down to get it all nice and smooth. It worked quite nicely, filling in all the seams between sections of pipe. I'd recommend using something better than spackling, though. Bondo or Water Putty might be good options. This stuff can flake off a little too easily.
Performance
No official range tests yet, but by comparing it with other guns, I'd say it gets at least 65-70 feet.
What I like most about the gun is that it feels really cool. The spackling adds enough weight to make it feel really solid, without making it unwieldy. That, along with the size and shape, make it a lot of fun to shoot.
Hopefully, I can get better pics up soon.
Unlike everything I've built before, the gun is in two parts: the frame and the upper. The frame is based on a half-slice of 1 1/4" thinwall, with a 1" 3-section grip and trigger guard attached. The upper houses a foam-head plunger and all the trimmings, as well as a 1/2" PEX barrel. They are both housed inside the same length of pipe, which gives a beefier, less homemade look. Here is a picture of the gun:
Shadow does weird things with its appearance. The grip looks tapered in the photo, and the general shape is a bit skewed. It also doesn't convey the size of this gun. It's about maverick sized in real life, but a little bit longer and wider.
The Upper:
The upper is basically just a length of 1 1/4" PVC. There is a 1"x1/2" PVC bushing in the back to hold the spring, and another, with a ring of 1/2" CPVC coupler inserted, in the middle to stabilize the barrel.
The plunger is constructed like those in the Thing and Dragonfly, except that the sealing surface has been lengthened, and the endcap has been replaced with a balsa disk.
The barrel is held in by foam insulation. A long chunk fits between the barrel and chamber wall, sealing off the outside and keeping the barrel in place.
The Frame:
Here it is before all the bodywork.
You can see how everything is put together.
The pink thing on the left was the earlier form for the end of the trigger guard.
I've since added a guide screw to keep the trigger from flipping around like it's doing in the photo.
Construction:
Everything was made originally in PVC (except the end of the guard). I then coated the whole thing with spackling, forming the shape with a putty knife. After letting the spackling dry, I sanded everything down to get it all nice and smooth. It worked quite nicely, filling in all the seams between sections of pipe. I'd recommend using something better than spackling, though. Bondo or Water Putty might be good options. This stuff can flake off a little too easily.
Performance
No official range tests yet, but by comparing it with other guns, I'd say it gets at least 65-70 feet.
What I like most about the gun is that it feels really cool. The spackling adds enough weight to make it feel really solid, without making it unwieldy. That, along with the size and shape, make it a lot of fun to shoot.
Hopefully, I can get better pics up soon.
#87468 Drum Feeds
Posted by
on 14 August 2006 - 10:16 PM
in
Homemades
Yup, that's what I was talking about. I hope this thing works.
