More food for thought - it'd be really cool to start seeing people re-grip their blasters with drill handles. That way you wouldn't need fancy battery connectors and you could hot swap batteries just as quickly as you can change a mag.
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There have been 273 items by Lucian (Search limited from 30-November 93)
Hey, long time no see! Welcome back friend! This is awesome work!
I'd encourage you to reconsider that priming mechanism - it looks like you'd be putting a lot of torque into the delrin rails as you prime?
I'd recommend looking at how people have been priming Tornado Bows!
In terms of aesthetics, probably this thing:
Are you able to pump that thing while only holding the pump handle and pistol grip, or would that rip the tank away from the Nitefinder remnants? I think it looks great, it's a totally utilitarian blaster and I can see beauty in that!
So as of late, I've been plagued with the issue of all of the hex nuts coming loose. I have a few ideas about making the experience of dealing with this easier. I'm thinking that you could use any of the following techniques -
1) Fully embed one hex nut per threaded rod. See: http://solidutopia.c...-captive-parts/
2) Use a captured hex nut recession for one of the threaded rod's fasteners
3) Threaded insert for one of the rod's fasteners??? I'd just be worried about the 3D printed part stripping and the insert eventually having nothing to bite into.
There's more reading on all this available at: https://www.fictiv.c...d-printed-parts
The hard part about any of this is that you need a way to keep the threaded rod from rotating during assembly. It's not the easiest thing to do, I'm considering adding a set screw or two where possible to help lock the rod in place.
By securing one nut per rod, you gain the bonus of not needing two wrenches. If you can keep the threaded rod from rotating when you tighten the blaster up, you'd be able to disassemble & reassemble everything with just a Leatherman - to me that's a big added value.
What do you all think?
im just thinking how much the 1995 crossbow goes for now a days but how much was it when it first came out
I'm sorry but can you please use the shift key and capitalize some letters? I'm having a hard time imagining you are anything other than a 12 year old with the way you've been communicating on here.
I'm using a drop-leg pouch like this, which works pretty well. I can fit three 12-ball clips in it, and they stick out enough that I can reload them when not actively being shot at.
I just ordered it, thanks for the link! You should have set it up as a referral link... I'll report back with how this works for regular N-Strike Mags.
The front end of [k26] +Bow length variant just shattered after ten shots. Just wanted to give fellow builders a heads-up. I do not have a plan for this issue. Hypothetically the front could be entirely printed in TPU (flexible filament)... that might absorb some of the shock. Could be interesting!
Oh no! That's not good! I wonder what would happen to the model I've made for myself-
The whole thing is printed at 100% infill PLA. Funny enough, I broke the same parts off the mag well when I was assembling it, so I inserted 6-32 rod through the parts to pin it together.
Do you foresee the internal metal bits changing?
So I have some design suggestions based on my own scans that I have made with Drac's Xbow and a NextEngine 3D Laser Scanner.
So this first thing might just be me, or my unwillingness to spend a few hours filing the print- BUT- there is a good amount of overhang where the grip meets the stock, The design is really clever, but I think a millimeter or two need to be shaved off the thickness of the arc.
You can see in my render that the middle finger ridge in the handle is pretty flat. It's just another flat landing area for your finger from what I've noticed.
If you ask me, the recession for this ridge goes in too deep. If it was flatter it wouldn't be a point that digs into your finger. You can see what I'm talking about in the image below:
Lastly, the extrusion coming off the base of the handle, is a little sharp. The real Xbow has more of a fillet, and the surfaces also blend together.
This is what I mean by that:
If you want to see some of the scan data I'm basing myself off of, you can find it here-
EDIT: Oh, and for those of you who don't check Nerf Modders Welcome- here's a photo of the finished print!
Ninja Edit #2: People have been asking me to provide the STL files, so here you go:
Neat. What material are you planning to cut it out from? I think the design of the handle needs to be tweaked, the finger ridge at the top of it is a little to small- I have NextEngine 3D scans I can provide for reference if you want to take another look at it Slug.
If you want to bore them to death with a powerpoint and quiz, yeah go for it. Instead why don't you just let them learn for themselves? Maybe one of them will be motivated to totally overhaul the vulcan into being the blaster they dreamt it to be if you don't hammer into their heads that it sucks....
I still need to adjust somethings, but that's whatever. Am I the first to follow the guide and make one of these?