Thanks for the comments.
@Kid Flash- Usually, I have the original ammo holder clipped in. I like having the five extra darts close at hand.
It looks considerably neater, but the gun wouldn't stand up with it.
Z4's Content
There have been 93 items by Z4 (Search limited from 03-December 96)
#189897 Disk Shot Modification
Posted by
on 15 November 2008 - 10:20 PM
in
Modifications
#189887 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by
on 15 November 2008 - 09:16 PM
in
Modifications
#189886 Disk Shot Modification
Posted by
on 15 November 2008 - 09:02 PM
in
Modifications
Wrap the front of the pen in e-tape until the turret fits snugly.
Sand down the bottom of the piece of CPVC so that the turret axis is not impeded.
Replace the barrels on your 2k turret.
I used the front of the pen and an old BuzzBee dart in the center of the turret to keep the barrels evenly spaced.
Use large amounts of hot glue to join the turret, the pen and the CPVC stub. If you want the turret to be easily removable, don’t get any glue on the coupler.
The turret is easy to remove, but sturdy. I still suggest opening the case if you desire to change from turret to single barrel.
Place all the internals back into the shell. I did not take a picture, but I surrounded the turret axis and air output with FBR for added stability.
Close the gun back up.
I found it helpful to tape some thin plate Styrofoam to the back of the turret, because mine was tending to shoot left.
You’re done!
I really like the versatility of this gun. The turret doesn’t decrease ranges badly. The added ROF is excellent for the circumstances I use this gun for. Around here, we use stock taggers because we don’t play in a huge area, and most shots are taken at around 40’ or so. This gun hits high 50’s singled and low 50’s turreted (with stock taggers and the pictured bungees), so that's perfect. I will test with stefans soon.
I know that people will question my use of hot glue for the turret structure, but I find that the plasticity of it allows the assembly to bend slightly without breaking, so I don't plan to change it. When it eventually breaks, I'll replace it with Plumber's Goop and epoxy putty, but until then, I like it as-is.
Questions or comments?
Sand down the bottom of the piece of CPVC so that the turret axis is not impeded.
Replace the barrels on your 2k turret.
I used the front of the pen and an old BuzzBee dart in the center of the turret to keep the barrels evenly spaced.
Use large amounts of hot glue to join the turret, the pen and the CPVC stub. If you want the turret to be easily removable, don’t get any glue on the coupler.
The turret is easy to remove, but sturdy. I still suggest opening the case if you desire to change from turret to single barrel.
Place all the internals back into the shell. I did not take a picture, but I surrounded the turret axis and air output with FBR for added stability.
Close the gun back up.
I found it helpful to tape some thin plate Styrofoam to the back of the turret, because mine was tending to shoot left.
You’re done!
I really like the versatility of this gun. The turret doesn’t decrease ranges badly. The added ROF is excellent for the circumstances I use this gun for. Around here, we use stock taggers because we don’t play in a huge area, and most shots are taken at around 40’ or so. This gun hits high 50’s singled and low 50’s turreted (with stock taggers and the pictured bungees), so that's perfect. I will test with stefans soon.
I know that people will question my use of hot glue for the turret structure, but I find that the plasticity of it allows the assembly to bend slightly without breaking, so I don't plan to change it. When it eventually breaks, I'll replace it with Plumber's Goop and epoxy putty, but until then, I like it as-is.
Questions or comments?
#189884 Disk Shot Modification
Posted by
on 15 November 2008 - 09:01 PM
in
Modifications
I wasn’t really happy with my first Disk Shot mod, so I decided to do it again. My main issue with it was the dead space created by the “bridge.” I fix that problem in this modification, and threw in a little something extra.
My project aim was to create a Disk Shot modification that kept the internal coupling and eliminated dead space, and to create a removable 2k turret attachment.
Materials
1 Disk Shot
1 Airtech 2000 turret
CPVC
1 CPVC coupler
1 pen
Electrical tape
Hot glue
Styrofoam
Double-stick tape
Foam backer rod
Tools
Phillips head screwdriver
Dremel with grinding stone
Hot glue gun
Scrollsaw (not necessary, Dremel or hacksaw will suffice)
Drill press (also not necessary, power drill will suffice)
½” drill bit
Hammer
Part I
Open the Disk Shot.
Take your CPVC coupling and cut it as shown in the picture. There should be about ¼” left on one side before the stop.
Dremel out the back of the coupler until it will fit snugly over the lip of the old AR. I didn't even have to glue it after tapping it down with a hammer.
Dremel down the plastic support ring directly in front of the chamber until the coupler fits well. Do this for both sides of the shell.
If you only want to use one barrel, you may close the gun up now. You’ll have to Dremel the inside of the orange ring in order for the barrel to fit.
You’re done with the basic part of the modification. If you wish to add the removable 2k turret, continue reading.
Part II
Drill a 1/2" hole in the front of the blaster just below the barrel hole. Depending on how exactly you drill the hole, you may need to sand it out some. This hole is for the turret axis.
Take the body of your pen. I used a BIC Soft Feel. Any pen that has an O.D. less than the I.D. of the air input on the turret will work. Wrap electrical tape around it until it fits snugly in a small section of CPVC.
Put the small length of CPVC into the coupler. The rear opening of the pen should be flush with the hole in the end of the chamber. Cut the pen off at the front of the shell.
My project aim was to create a Disk Shot modification that kept the internal coupling and eliminated dead space, and to create a removable 2k turret attachment.
Materials
1 Disk Shot
1 Airtech 2000 turret
CPVC
1 CPVC coupler
1 pen
Electrical tape
Hot glue
Styrofoam
Double-stick tape
Foam backer rod
Tools
Phillips head screwdriver
Dremel with grinding stone
Hot glue gun
Scrollsaw (not necessary, Dremel or hacksaw will suffice)
Drill press (also not necessary, power drill will suffice)
½” drill bit
Hammer
Part I
Open the Disk Shot.
Take your CPVC coupling and cut it as shown in the picture. There should be about ¼” left on one side before the stop.
Dremel out the back of the coupler until it will fit snugly over the lip of the old AR. I didn't even have to glue it after tapping it down with a hammer.
Dremel down the plastic support ring directly in front of the chamber until the coupler fits well. Do this for both sides of the shell.
If you only want to use one barrel, you may close the gun up now. You’ll have to Dremel the inside of the orange ring in order for the barrel to fit.
You’re done with the basic part of the modification. If you wish to add the removable 2k turret, continue reading.
Part II
Drill a 1/2" hole in the front of the blaster just below the barrel hole. Depending on how exactly you drill the hole, you may need to sand it out some. This hole is for the turret axis.
Take the body of your pen. I used a BIC Soft Feel. Any pen that has an O.D. less than the I.D. of the air input on the turret will work. Wrap electrical tape around it until it fits snugly in a small section of CPVC.
Put the small length of CPVC into the coupler. The rear opening of the pen should be flush with the hole in the end of the chamber. Cut the pen off at the front of the shell.
#189817 The Crosssnap!
Posted by
on 15 November 2008 - 12:27 PM
in
Homemades
Very well done. I've had my eye on this since viewing the concept/design thread. When the inevitable writeup comes around, I shall strongly consider building one.
In the pictures, that thing appears sturdy enough to be run over by a car multiple times without damage. Good work.
In the pictures, that thing appears sturdy enough to be run over by a car multiple times without damage. Good work.
#188231 A Quick Question
Posted by
on 08 November 2008 - 12:12 PM
in
General Nerf
Are you referring to the Photon Burst Power Blaster (as seen in this topic)? I'm not sure if that's what you're describing, but it fits your description. I don't believe that it is Lanard, though.
#186863 Happy Birthday Forsaken!
Posted by
on 01 November 2008 - 05:05 PM
in
Off Topic
Happy Birthday! Have a good one, and many more.
#182640 Good Deals At Your Local Grocery Store
Posted by
on 09 October 2008 - 04:09 PM
in
General Nerf
The Dart Tag darts would be the only things that I'd buy; I use them for neighborhood wars and always lose at least 30 per war, and that $6 is the best price I've seen for them. Good to know, there's a big Kroger opening near me soon, I'll have to check it out
@Bob: Tek 6 springs are actually decent. I use them in Nitefinders and get pretty good ranges (55' or so)
@Bob: Tek 6 springs are actually decent. I use them in Nitefinders and get pretty good ranges (55' or so)
#181526 Whats Your Target?
Posted by
on 04 October 2008 - 05:10 PM
in
General Nerf
I generally shoot at my basketball goal's pole, a small water bottle or a tree that I know to be exactly 60' from my front porch.
#181524 Ertl Rapid Fire Shotgun
Posted by
on 04 October 2008 - 05:08 PM
in
Modifications
Good job. If you ever have to take off the plunger head again, try dipping it into some hot water for a few seconds. This will make it more pliable and easier to get back on.
#181440 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 04 October 2008 - 10:43 AM
in
Homemades
My Rev.2 +bow:
I finished it on Thursday, so I guess I can claim the second Rev.2 reproduction. It's awesome, anything that was a problem on Rev.1 has been completely fixed. To anyone who is making one, I definitely suggest sanding the polycarbonate all over as CaptainSlug did, it brings a whole new level of comfort to the blaster. I really like the solid core grip too, I was a bit sketchy about it at first, but after actually holding it, it's way better than the foam core grip. Right now, I'm in the process of converting my old Rev.1 one up to date, but once that's completed, I can forsee this thing getting some sort of dye job.
I can't wait to tackle another one, great work CaptainSlug.
Just as an afterthought, do you see a Rev.3 ever happening or are you satisfied as-is?
I finished it on Thursday, so I guess I can claim the second Rev.2 reproduction. It's awesome, anything that was a problem on Rev.1 has been completely fixed. To anyone who is making one, I definitely suggest sanding the polycarbonate all over as CaptainSlug did, it brings a whole new level of comfort to the blaster. I really like the solid core grip too, I was a bit sketchy about it at first, but after actually holding it, it's way better than the foam core grip. Right now, I'm in the process of converting my old Rev.1 one up to date, but once that's completed, I can forsee this thing getting some sort of dye job.
I can't wait to tackle another one, great work CaptainSlug.
Just as an afterthought, do you see a Rev.3 ever happening or are you satisfied as-is?
#181439 Magstrike Brokeen Help!
Posted by
on 04 October 2008 - 10:27 AM
in
Off Topic
There could be a lot of different problems. Inspect the tubing, and look down into the pump tube. Look at the back of the bladder and make sure the check valve isn't jammed. Can you hear air leaking from anywhere? If so, where? Some internal pictures might help as well. I don't have much experience with Magstrikes, but if you can find anything a bit more specific I'll try to help in whatever way I can.
#181329 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 03 October 2008 - 08:40 PM
in
Homemades
I had a similar experience, except the package came around 3 PM the next day. It was incredible service. My order was about $27, and shipping was $9.50. It came in one fairly large box and the long tube used for the nylon rod. If your order was just the springs and cylinder, and the rod, then I can't see shipping for you being too much more than mine.Here's a question ... I'm asking here because this thread is no doubt read by several people who have done business with Mcmaster-carr before ... Is it typical to place an order in the early evening, and have a courier deliver before breakfast the next morning?
I still don't know how much the shipping charges are going to be, and although that's terrific service, I hope we're not talking $20 shipping for my ($15) order. But now that wouldn't surprise me.
I also live fairly close (>200 miles) away from the warehouse that my order was shipped from, so that might have helped.
#179639 Food For Thought...
Posted by
on 25 September 2008 - 09:32 PM
in
Modifications
Another alternative would be to find a hollow toy flintlock of any kind and put something like this into it. It's ranges are slightly higher than what you're looking for, but you can always pump it less.
#179637 Longshot 2k
Posted by
on 25 September 2008 - 09:28 PM
in
Modifications
I suggest doing something like mine. If you want, it's rail mounted and detachable, or you can saw off the bipod and epoxy it on front-gun style.
#179410 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 24 September 2008 - 09:23 PM
in
Homemades
Looks great! Heaps of kudos. I've already downloaded the templates and have cut out a few pieces, I'm waiting on a McMaster order now, but should have it finished early next week. I just have a few quick questions though. How do you get your 1/2" nylon rod so straight? When I ordered some for my first one, it was kind of crooked and didn't really ever straighten out. Also, for the grip edges, would a Dremel with an abrasive grinding disc or a 2 wheeled grinding table suffice or do you think sand paper is better? Last one: The catch plate no longer has to be beveled, correct?
Thanks a lot, great work improving an already phenomenal blaster.
Thanks a lot, great work improving an already phenomenal blaster.
#178834 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 22 September 2008 - 04:07 PM
in
Homemades
All right, glad to hear it. Thanks a lot.You'll have to print out the new templates and use the scrollsaw to widen the shape of the existing hole to accommodate the the round plunger rod if you want to change over to it.
My +bow. It was my first experience machining plastics with a scrollsaw (I know it wasn't recommended, but I wanted to give it a go). I'd say it came out pretty good. A few of the cuts aren't straight, and some of the holes didn't line up first shot, but the process really wasn't as painful as I expected.
The new trigger is MUCH easier to pull and far more comfortable than the old slider. My only issue with it now is the cocking handle, and it appears that Rev. 2 solves that entirely. I also need to hit that part up with the sander again. I'll be doing some minor sanding and comfort improvement over the whole thing, and probably give it a dye job, but it's done, and it's awesome. I can't wait for the full Revision 2 experience...I'll be one of the first downloading the templates.
Stole the words right out of my mouth...And now I'm very very happy with it.
EDIT: Just one more quick question: Will the Rev. 2 supply list require any new things or more of some of what's on there? I'm in the process of placing a McMaster order and want to know what to get.
#178613 +bow: Diy Thread
Posted by
on 21 September 2008 - 01:40 PM
in
Homemades
I started cutting out the main 1/4" frame pieces for my second +bow yesterday, and already cut the centers out for the 1/4" plunger rod. Will it be possible for me to drill the pieces out for the Rev. 2 rod or do I need to recut them entirely?
Rev. 2 is looking great, I can't wait to see the rest of the write-up.
Rev. 2 is looking great, I can't wait to see the rest of the write-up.
#178007 Hacksaw?
Posted by
on 17 September 2008 - 08:30 PM
in
Modifications
I've used a hacksaw, a PVC saw, and a coping saw to cut things, usually whichever I could access first. In my experience, they all cut about the same, with the coping saw leaving a bit of a smoother cut. I've moved away from saws though, I usually use my PVC cutters, tin snips and Dremel for all plastic related jobs. The PVC cutters and tin snips leave much cleaner cuts and the Dremel does as well once you get the hang of it. Saws tend to leave cuts that require sanding or deburring, so I rarely use them anymore. Utility knives also work well for some applications that some use hacksaws for. If I need to use a saw, I use the PVC saw, as it is designed specifically for plastics and slips less when sawing them.
EDIT: After seeing Blasphemy's post, I occasionally use a scrollsaw when doing large-scale work that would result in physical taxation otherwise. (or when I'm making a +bow)
EDIT: After seeing Blasphemy's post, I occasionally use a scrollsaw when doing large-scale work that would result in physical taxation otherwise. (or when I'm making a +bow)
#177984 Nerfhaven Accessories Directory
Posted by
on 17 September 2008 - 06:50 PM
in
Modifications
I guess I deserved that...the only gun I added one to for actual war use was a 2k, since it had no good point to aim by. They did help (me at least) on longer shots, especially on guns with no natural sight line.I'm inclined to believe that no one who has ever attended a nerf war and done relatively well has subsequently thought to themselves, "This gone is pretty cool, but it could really use a plastic tube on the top. That would make it way easier to aim, what with me forgetting which way to hold it and all.
And Falcon, I love that site. It was the first thing I discovered in the way of people who enjoyed tinkering inside plastic toys as much as I did. It led to my discovery of the NIC, and I guess I'm here today because of it. I for one would be sad to see it go.
#177838 Nerfhaven Accessories Directory
Posted by
on 16 September 2008 - 09:30 PM
in
Modifications
I just wanted to suggest that you add your Sprinkler Scope from DenofFoam. If you don't have time to copy it over to here, I can if you want me to. I've used them on several guns and they work superbly.
#177833 Disk Shot Modification
Posted by
on 16 September 2008 - 09:24 PM
in
Modifications
rippen11: No, I didn't. The TTG spring isn't a huge power boost, so it really doesn't need it. It's the only spring in it, correct. This could be done in a similar way with a Nitefinder if you didn't cut all the case off. Thanks!
Rork: Thanks! These things are clearanced all over the place, I'm going to pick up a few more too. It always means something to me to get a compliment.
BlackFox: Thanks, the ranges do seem a tad low but I plan on overhauling this thing to the extreme. I'm going to do everything possible to squeeze the most performance out of this thing. TTG springs are a bit more powerful than the stock spring. Loghomestore foam is excellent quality and very durable, it's just, HUGE. It only fits in 19/32" brass and larger.
Thanks for all the compliments!
Rork: Thanks! These things are clearanced all over the place, I'm going to pick up a few more too. It always means something to me to get a compliment.
BlackFox: Thanks, the ranges do seem a tad low but I plan on overhauling this thing to the extreme. I'm going to do everything possible to squeeze the most performance out of this thing. TTG springs are a bit more powerful than the stock spring. Loghomestore foam is excellent quality and very durable, it's just, HUGE. It only fits in 19/32" brass and larger.
Thanks for all the compliments!
#177814 Disk Shot Modification
Posted by
on 16 September 2008 - 08:16 PM
in
Modifications
Hello again, Z4 here. I prefer my Disk Shot over other spring pistols. I like its grip, and it is very reliable. I was happy with a simple CPVC mod, but decided to take it up a notch with an internal coupling.
Materials
1/2" CPVC
1/2" CPVC coupler
Teflon or Electrical tape
A better spring (opt.)
Hot glue/Plumber's Goop/your favorite adhesive
Tools
Pipe Cutters
Dremel (opt.)
Screwdriver
I minimized my Disk Shot. Most minimizations hack the excess off at the inner wall, but I wanted the retain the ability to use the ammo holder, so I cut it off even with the trigger guard. The holder is very solid when popped in, but can be removed fairly easily for whatever reason.
Open the gun up. Try not to lose the catch spring, it'll try to pop out. Remove all the ARs.
I replaced the spring with a Tech Target spring. When I give this thing a complete overhaul, I'll put in something stronger. I also wrapped 2 layers of Teflon tape around the plunger head. Note* Teflon tape isn't sticky. If you do more than one layer, it'll naturally stick to itself. Putting the O-ring on over it will hold it down perfectly.
Cut a 5/8" long piece of CPVC. Adhere it to the end of the plunger chamber. I suggest gluing the two orange pieces together, and to the plunger tube itself. Once the adhesive is dry, add a 1/2" coupler.
This step is mostly for cosmetics, though it does add a little stability. Take the orange ring from the front and Dremel it out until CPVC slides through it with no resistance.
Put all the internals back in. Don't forget the two screws in the plunger chamber, and don't forget the catch and trigger springs. I added a bunch of huge Loghomestore FBR for silencing. It works well for that if nothing else.
Close the gun back up. It looks almost completely stock from the outside.
I find that a 3 3/4" barrel works best.
Ranges are about 55' flat with a pair of mini-bungees.
If anything's unclear, don't hesitate to ask.
Questions, comments...?
Materials
1/2" CPVC
1/2" CPVC coupler
Teflon or Electrical tape
A better spring (opt.)
Hot glue/Plumber's Goop/your favorite adhesive
Tools
Pipe Cutters
Dremel (opt.)
Screwdriver
I minimized my Disk Shot. Most minimizations hack the excess off at the inner wall, but I wanted the retain the ability to use the ammo holder, so I cut it off even with the trigger guard. The holder is very solid when popped in, but can be removed fairly easily for whatever reason.
Open the gun up. Try not to lose the catch spring, it'll try to pop out. Remove all the ARs.
I replaced the spring with a Tech Target spring. When I give this thing a complete overhaul, I'll put in something stronger. I also wrapped 2 layers of Teflon tape around the plunger head. Note* Teflon tape isn't sticky. If you do more than one layer, it'll naturally stick to itself. Putting the O-ring on over it will hold it down perfectly.
Cut a 5/8" long piece of CPVC. Adhere it to the end of the plunger chamber. I suggest gluing the two orange pieces together, and to the plunger tube itself. Once the adhesive is dry, add a 1/2" coupler.
This step is mostly for cosmetics, though it does add a little stability. Take the orange ring from the front and Dremel it out until CPVC slides through it with no resistance.
Put all the internals back in. Don't forget the two screws in the plunger chamber, and don't forget the catch and trigger springs. I added a bunch of huge Loghomestore FBR for silencing. It works well for that if nothing else.
Close the gun back up. It looks almost completely stock from the outside.
I find that a 3 3/4" barrel works best.
Ranges are about 55' flat with a pair of mini-bungees.
If anything's unclear, don't hesitate to ask.
Questions, comments...?
#177806 Automated Foam Cutter - New Pics/vid
Posted by
on 16 September 2008 - 07:40 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
This is awesome, although I kind of like just cutting some blanks while watching reruns of Mythbusters...Nice work though, could you estimate how much all the components cost?
OMC: [timidly raises hand] Are Zero's the ones that have 5/8" heads with 1/2" bodies (or some combination of two different foam sizes)? I seem to remember reading something about them on one of the old Nerf pages.
EDIT: Never mind, I was thinking of "Webbies". I remembered the name of one and the method of another.
OMC: [timidly raises hand] Are Zero's the ones that have 5/8" heads with 1/2" bodies (or some combination of two different foam sizes)? I seem to remember reading something about them on one of the old Nerf pages.
EDIT: Never mind, I was thinking of "Webbies". I remembered the name of one and the method of another.
#177802 Thunderbolt
Posted by
on 16 September 2008 - 07:33 PM
in
Modifications
That's pretty good. I find that BuzzBee's ROF guns all get better ranges than most Mavericks and some Fireflies. If you dislike the sound, clip the wires leading to that green circle piece in the last picture and remove it. If you still want the lights, just e-tape the ends of the wires, but if you don't care, just leave the batteries out. I do like that little appendage down at the bottom, it begs for a 2k or a SSPB.
Good start though, I look forward to seeing the rest of the mod.
Good start though, I look forward to seeing the rest of the mod.
#177749 Nerfhaven Accessories Directory
Posted by
on 16 September 2008 - 03:46 PM
in
Modifications
It looks good, thanks for the add. I second OfAll, there's a small section of barrel/breech related stuff in the Mod directory, but it might be more obvious here.
I see my term for your strap has caught on...
I see my term for your strap has caught on...
#177531 Crossbow Stickers
Posted by
on 15 September 2008 - 04:05 PM
in
General Nerf
I can't find the actual "Crossbow" part, but here's the Nerf logo of that era:
I wanted to throw the "fun" feel back into my Crossbow, so I got this off the web and tweaked the colors until it was right. I'm sorry that I can't help you any more than that. (It seems to be the right size as-is)
I wanted to throw the "fun" feel back into my Crossbow, so I got this off the web and tweaked the colors until it was right. I'm sorry that I can't help you any more than that. (It seems to be the right size as-is)
#177081 Cpvc Turreted Crossbow
Posted by
on 13 September 2008 - 12:46 PM
in
Modifications
First post updated with completed turret and ranges.
Renegademilitia: The range decrease appears to be no more than 5', which is what I was hoping for. I'm still not that happy with the ranges though, I'm going to be doing some more tweaking.
Nonsense: The barrel doesn't actually nest over the air output hole. There's a short bridge, but the O-ring nearly eliminates leaking.
Renegademilitia: The range decrease appears to be no more than 5', which is what I was hoping for. I'm still not that happy with the ranges though, I'm going to be doing some more tweaking.
Nonsense: The barrel doesn't actually nest over the air output hole. There's a short bridge, but the O-ring nearly eliminates leaking.
#176963 Cpvc Turreted Crossbow
Posted by
on 12 September 2008 - 09:38 PM
in
Modifications
This is an addition to my original CPVC Crossbow modification (there's a link in the sig). I like the modification, but desired a higher ROF. This is my solution. The turret I constructed is similar to BobaFan's and Rork's, but it's different enough, and I've never seen this applied to a Crossbow. My main aim was to produce a interchangeable turret system that did not include a large range drop (>5').
It is assumed at the beginning of this writeup that Part I has been completed.
Materials:
1/2" CPVC
1/2" CPVC endcap
3/4" CPVC
1/2" PVC
1/2" PVC couplers (2)
#9 O-ring
Loctite Epoxy Putty
Cable ties
Hot glue
Duct tape
1/8" polycarbonate (opt. but strongly suggested)
Tools:
PVC style pipe cutters
Dremel
Cutting wheel attachment
Grinding attachment
Hot glue gun
Screwdriver
Here we go!
Start off by putting a small length of PVC into one end of a coupling. Repeat this step for the other coupling.
Using a Dremel, grind out the ID of the PVC for each coupling until 1/2" CPVC slides through it smoothly.
Grind down the OD of the 3/4"CPVC until it can be inserted into the other end of the PVC coupling. The piece should be about 2 1/2" long.
You now have the completed inner part of your turret.
Take a 10.5" piece of 1/2" CPVC, line it up as pictured, and cut a notch out of 1/2 the circumference.
Now take the Dremel to the front of your Crossbow (
) It should look about like this. (Mine is a little big, there used to be an internal 2k integration and the barrel was a little below the new hole)
Now using liberal amounts of hot glue and cable ties, attach the axis to the plunger tube/coupler. I used a few small 1/8" polycarbonate scraps for additional reinforcement, and I strongly suggest doing so.
You can now put the internals back in and close up the gun. (I didn't but I didn't know. You can).
Cut a 2 3/8" piece of 1/2" CPVC. This is the "bridge."
Stick the "bridge" into the coupling, and add the #9 O-ring. Use another piece of 1/2" to tap it in better. I'm going to glue the O-ring in because it kept falling out, see what works best for you.
THE TURRET!!! It can have up to seven barrels. I find six to be a perfect balance though.
It is removable to be rear loading and clippable.
On the 'bow:
The Crossbow has a Falcon Super Strap. I really suggest putting one of these on each and every primary you own, they're awesome. I also printed out a original Nerf sticker to put on the side. I love it.
Advancement is an easy motion. I find that I can get off one shot every 1.25 seconds or so.
Ranges (fired flat at shoulder height) are in the high seventies and low eighties. My Crossbow seems to have bad ranges, I'm still experimenting with barrel lengths and types.
Questions, comments...?
It is assumed at the beginning of this writeup that Part I has been completed.
Materials:
1/2" CPVC
1/2" CPVC endcap
3/4" CPVC
1/2" PVC
1/2" PVC couplers (2)
#9 O-ring
Loctite Epoxy Putty
Cable ties
Hot glue
Duct tape
1/8" polycarbonate (opt. but strongly suggested)
Tools:
PVC style pipe cutters
Dremel
Cutting wheel attachment
Grinding attachment
Hot glue gun
Screwdriver
Here we go!
Start off by putting a small length of PVC into one end of a coupling. Repeat this step for the other coupling.
Using a Dremel, grind out the ID of the PVC for each coupling until 1/2" CPVC slides through it smoothly.
Grind down the OD of the 3/4"CPVC until it can be inserted into the other end of the PVC coupling. The piece should be about 2 1/2" long.
You now have the completed inner part of your turret.
Take a 10.5" piece of 1/2" CPVC, line it up as pictured, and cut a notch out of 1/2 the circumference.
Now take the Dremel to the front of your Crossbow (
) It should look about like this. (Mine is a little big, there used to be an internal 2k integration and the barrel was a little below the new hole)Now using liberal amounts of hot glue and cable ties, attach the axis to the plunger tube/coupler. I used a few small 1/8" polycarbonate scraps for additional reinforcement, and I strongly suggest doing so.
You can now put the internals back in and close up the gun. (I didn't but I didn't know. You can).
Cut a 2 3/8" piece of 1/2" CPVC. This is the "bridge."
Stick the "bridge" into the coupling, and add the #9 O-ring. Use another piece of 1/2" to tap it in better. I'm going to glue the O-ring in because it kept falling out, see what works best for you.
THE TURRET!!! It can have up to seven barrels. I find six to be a perfect balance though.
It is removable to be rear loading and clippable.
On the 'bow:
The Crossbow has a Falcon Super Strap. I really suggest putting one of these on each and every primary you own, they're awesome. I also printed out a original Nerf sticker to put on the side. I love it.
Advancement is an easy motion. I find that I can get off one shot every 1.25 seconds or so.
Ranges (fired flat at shoulder height) are in the high seventies and low eighties. My Crossbow seems to have bad ranges, I'm still experimenting with barrel lengths and types.
Questions, comments...?
#176907 The New Hereti Corp. Assault Rifle
Posted by
on 12 September 2008 - 05:04 PM
in
Modifications
Hereticorp-
I think I can handle it...would you say a year's experience would suffice?
About the video editing, if you'd use it a bit, I'd suggest looking into the Ulead VideoStudio line. My sister was an amateur film director, and you can do some pretty good stuff with it. I don't know what version they're on now, we have 7 and 9.
I can attest that a stock Xbow spring is substantially weaker than a +bow/AR15 spring, I can fully compress the former with my bare hands and can barely shorten the latter. I can also attest that that that spring is the most beastly coil of wire I've ever touched, so I'd imagine any gun with a piece of it inside could chuck a dart a fair distance.
EDIT: Thanks hereticorp
Good luck, the thing's a pain until you really get the hang of it.
Took 10, because I split things up more than NH requires.
Thanks.
Heh, apparently it's only 85 pics, I left out several from the total number I posted on flickr, mostly because of the duplication of effort. 85,000 words huh? That'd be a helluva thing.
Thanks!
I'm working on the integrations now, we'll see how it turns out in the long run.
Heh, if only I was that good with video editing.
I'll see what I can do with my wife's camera, hers actually has a video mode. And I need a good mask... Maybe I'll get a steampunk flight helmet and goggles."
I think I can handle it...would you say a year's experience would suffice?
About the video editing, if you'd use it a bit, I'd suggest looking into the Ulead VideoStudio line. My sister was an amateur film director, and you can do some pretty good stuff with it. I don't know what version they're on now, we have 7 and 9.
I can attest that a stock Xbow spring is substantially weaker than a +bow/AR15 spring, I can fully compress the former with my bare hands and can barely shorten the latter. I can also attest that that that spring is the most beastly coil of wire I've ever touched, so I'd imagine any gun with a piece of it inside could chuck a dart a fair distance.
EDIT: Thanks hereticorp
#176620 The New Hereti Corp. Assault Rifle
Posted by
on 11 September 2008 - 04:20 PM
in
Modifications
Excellent work. I think I'll be looking here when I get my Longshot back open.
So that took what, 9 posts?
Great job, I love all your work.
EDIT: I counted. If a picture's worth a thousand words, then your writeup, without words, is worth 85,000 words. Now that's a post I'd like to see...
So that took what, 9 posts?
Great job, I love all your work.
EDIT: I counted. If a picture's worth a thousand words, then your writeup, without words, is worth 85,000 words. Now that's a post I'd like to see...
#176459 Where To Buy Modding Materials
Posted by
on 10 September 2008 - 07:01 PM
in
Modifications
Loghomestore.com sells white foam backer rod. They're the only place that sells it that I know of, and a simple search would have told you that.
#175951 Re-sizable Shoulder Strap
Posted by
on 08 September 2008 - 04:53 PM
in
Modifications
Thanks. The strap doesn't even touch my arm; it barely touches my sleeve. It's perfectly comfortable as it is actually. It doesn't seem to be a problem (for me) at all.
#175758 Petg Breech
Posted by
on 07 September 2008 - 07:03 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Thanks, this is really cool. I too have that Dremel, or I did til it mysteriously disappeared...
#175755 My Petg Breech
Posted by
on 07 September 2008 - 06:56 PM
in
Homemades
It doesn't have to be too detailed, I just wanted to know a few things about how many layers of e-tape that is and the questions that Galaxy asked.
#175754 How Tight Should They Be?
Posted by
on 07 September 2008 - 06:53 PM
in
General Nerf
Splitlip: I don't really know why, I had always read that air guns got best results with looser barrels, so I did that. I do have a CPVCed 2k though, and it works great.
#175596 How Tight Should They Be?
Posted by
on 07 September 2008 - 07:49 AM
in
General Nerf
Sounds like you have darts that are almost identical to mine. I use CPVC for all my springers, and 17/32 or 9/16" brass for air guns.
#175513 Hvz
Posted by
on 06 September 2008 - 09:14 PM
in
General Nerf
I back up all the people who have mentioned a Longshot, but I'd suggest doing this mod to it so you don't find yourself up a creek without a paddle when you run out of overpriced streamlines. Take out the ARs and do that, and your gun will shoot 45-50' with decent accuracy, and shouldn't be painful at all. I'd suggest making an extended clip as well.
#175508 My Petg Breech
Posted by
on 06 September 2008 - 08:55 PM
in
Homemades
I'd like to see a write-up; I could build something similar in form and function but wouldn't mind some clarification on the finer points. I personally wouldn't be able to buy one, but I'd say you could make a few bucks selling them as well.
#175465 My Petg Breech
Posted by
on 06 September 2008 - 06:00 PM
in
Homemades
That's really neat. Operations are the same as the old one right? Does it get similar ranges in any given gun as your brass ones? Props on the good idea. Are these compatible with clips?
