Yeah, if still around counts as checking in every month or so.
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There have been 437 items by atomatron (Search limited from 05-June 93)
I doubt this given MyLastDart's experience with them first hand, also given the plunger tube size it sounds like it could do that.
Guys. Hasbro absolutely always, in every case, 100% of the time, no exceptions, advertises angled ranges. This thing maybe has modding potential to 100ft flat and beyond, but expecting it to get that stock is wishful thinking.
Notice that the fine print, just like every other nerf blaster, says "fires up to" in front of the range.
As it looks I'll be getting one (at least), the potential for this is leaps and bounds ahead of any blaster currently in production, you weren't kidding when you said there was something that would blow the LS and longstrike out of the water. I am a bit dissapointed with the incoming old-megas/mongos/megas confusion but whatever, terminology doesn't really matter if the distinction is clear.
Zach, bring those SSSM5K's for photo op absurdity with the Last Final Best Ultimate Integration Blaster Mk4.36 QuadrillionX Super Deluxe Prototype Ultra-2; it will be limited only by how many blasters available, duct tape and patience. Everyone else bring something silly awesome.
Feels aside I've attributed our current downturn in nerfer activity to the greater situation we currently face; a recession. Kids have to grow up faster, teens have to study harder and adults have to work longer to make due, let alone take time aside from that for hobbies like this one. I haven't really looked at any other sources but that's my hypothesis concerning what we're going through currently. It 'sounds right' to me but I'm curious what other people think. What is the cause for our current standing?
WE ACCOMPLISHED SOMETHING, MAYBE, I GUESS. (....?)
HEC, that catch (whatever Meaker wants it called) and all these one piece trigger/catch are pretty much the same and it doesn't really matter (Except it does and homemade ERTL catch; HEC is the best name for anything ever in the history of space.)
Might I suggest you take a peek at this: http://nerfhaven.com...howtopic=23365' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>Crossbow The catch I used in the crossbow is only one piece, and is capable of holding a 30lb draw longbow.
EDIT: all credit for the catch goes to Meaker IV.
Kane's iteration with the separation of the catch and trigger provides more leverage but with that it's only really necessitated by the extremely acute angle that the surfaces of the catch and plunger rod meet which in the act of un-catching would cause the plunger rod assembly to be moved against the force of the main spring. This only really means an easier trigger pull if my brain is doing things accurately.
If this works as well as you say it does it may provide Kane/Ryan with the solution to their feed problems with rubber headed darts, assuming the angle is low enough for the heads not to touch the side.
The somewhat more versatile thing I did on the same premise, works for pull back blasters
I plan on it. Additionally a friend and I have worked out a way to use a fog machine and laser with a line lens to view air disturbances. This should give us a substantially better understanding of how a dart behaves as it exits the barrel and in flight. If you have any suggestions I'd be willing to test them if I am able.
atomatron, if you have the time and resources, could you do some better tests? Figuring out what's going on would be easier with a solid white background, no shadows on the background (top lighting?), and darts that have different colors on the back or front.
I will be doing the following with a good dart, an intentionally poor dart and a disfigured shit dart;
- Horizontal view, white background
- From the muzzle view, white background
- Cross sectioned air disturbances with fogmachine
- From springer (fogmachine)
- From airgun (fogmachine)
- Really weak blaster
- Too loose dart/foam (fogmachine)
- Too tight dart/foam (fogmachine)
- Combos of tight/loose from air/springer. (fogmachine)
- Drac's Missle and NERF arrow (fogmachine)
I'll just be building a clear one some day.
Took me reading through it again to see exactly what's going on, but that's a pretty slick method of priming the blaster. It'd be help if you had pictures of completed components, rather than just close-ups of what you're working on, or one with everything laid out; as in many of BoltSniper's builds. I really like how clean it looks with everything internal; I had tried something like that and it failed because I was trying to push the plunger head with 1" PVC.
Do you think it'd be possible to nest the barrel and the priming rod to shrink the profile even more?
If you felt like using a weird breech setup and found another way of attaching the pump handle to the PVC then it would work.
Thanks and go for it, post results in the homemades thread.
Good work! This looks really solid, and pretty simple to build too. I will definitely try this when I get more materials. Nice job!
The stroke is 6 1/2". Take a look at the last picture, The pump handle moves back to about where the screw in the side is.
How long is the priming stroke? Is it all the way back to the handle? Could you possibly do a firing video to show how it all works.
Let me rephrase that. I understand it's a pump action blaster, but I would just like to see how you wield it.
I spent a great deal of time designing what became this blaster, you covered nearly everything I considered a 'pro' about this design.
I do like how you've kept a conventional plunger rod, seal, and catch layout while putting the priming action along the length of the barrel. It's a good compromise between barrels that stick out of the blaster making it longer and unwieldy, and requiring an inappropriately long barrel just to reach the front. And by linking the priming handle at a bottom slot, making the barrel go out the far end of the blaster isn't even required.
Version 1 of the bullPAC had a similar trigger design, and it also seemed more flakey than either linear plate catches (plusboids) or a lever catch whose direction of rotation provided stability rather than the contact slope. It's certainly possible to do well, and there are spacing advantages to doing so, but it's a remarkably inconvenient pair of shapes to machine and requires greater material strength and rigidity than other catch designs.
Admittedly the HEC catch isn't that great; it lacks the stability of the other contemporary designs as well as versatility, it cannot be put in backwards due to how it works or in many of the applications the plate catches can as it requires a catch face. I circumvented the strength issue by using thicker polycarb but stability can't really have much done for it. I think it's still worth using if not just experimenting with, luckily I have about 15 pounds of polycarb with which to do so.
This happens every time I build something. I don't know how he affords it or knows every time.
I tried this out while I was in Minnesota, and I can confirm that it is nifty. The priming is very smooth, as smooth as a PAC.
You will need the following.
Drill (drill press would help)
Scroll saw/Band saw
2' Piece of 1 1/4" PVC
1x 4" Piece of 1 1/4" PVC
1x 1 1/4" PVC Tee
1x 1 1/4" PVC Coupler
2x 3/4" PVC Endcaps
1x 1" to 1/2" PVC Bushing
1x 3/4" to 1/2" Reducing Bushing
1' Piece of 1/2" PVC
1x 1/2" PVC Stub (~2")
1x 1/2" PVC Endcap
1x 1/2" PVC Elbow
1x 3/4" ID Rubber O-ring
16x 6/32 Machine Screws of varying size
2x Wood Screws
1x Plunger Head setup (I use 3/4" steel, 1 1/2" rubber, 1 1/4" rubber, 1 1/4" steel, in that order)
1x 1/2" CPVC Endcap
1x 1/2" CPVC coupler
5" Piece of 1/2" CPVC
1x Vertical Handle
1x Pump Handle (could be a vertical handle too)
1x [k25] spring (or [k26], though you may have to change the measurements)
1x PVC Wye and hopper setup
5x Polycarb parts of varying size/shape
1x A chunk of 2" PVC (sort of optional)
Preparing the Main Body
From the start pick an end that will be the front. Then mark a slot starting 1/2" from the front and continuing for 9", the width of the slot was determined by the Polycarb I used (3/8"). I like putting it on the area with print so I never have to see it if I don't paint it.
Then on the exact opposite side of the tube I drilled a 5/8" hole directly in the middle (12" from the front)
That's all that needs to be done for now.
This will use the vertical handle, the 1 1/4" coupler and the wood screws. First I drilled holes through the coupler about an inch apart then widened two of them such that a screwdriver could fit through, then I carefully lined up, marked and drilled pilot holes into the handle.
(The material you use may not require this)
Before final assembly I put goop where the coupler and handle would n=meet to make it a but stronger. Here it is finished.
This will use the 1 1/4" Tee, one of the 3/4" Endcaps a bit of etape and the 5" section of 1 1/4" PVC.
Drill some holes in the endcap, tape it up and combine like so:
It doesn't show it but you will want to put screws through this part as it will be the spring rest.
I then solvent welded this part into the back of the coupler to which the handle is attached, you can use screws for a less totally permanent option.
The Pump Handle Assembly
This will use the Pump grip/handle, the 1' of 1/2" PVC, the 3/4" ID O-ring, a polycarb rectangle 3/4" by 2 1/2" and the 1/2" PVC endcap.
First chose an end of the PVC and do this with the endcap and O-ring
Next on the other end mark the PVC, rectangle and handle/grip.
I attempted to stagger the holes to reduce stress of the parts as much as possible (also gives more room for error).
(I would simplify this if I had longer screws)
Dissemble for a future step, or trust that it'll work in final assembly, whatever.
Back to the Main Body
Take the 1" to 1/2" bushing and ream out the inside so it slides over 1/2" PVC easily (I ended up lubing it a little to prevent galling between the parts) also dremel the outside so it just barely fits in the 1 1/4" PVC of the main body. This part will fit in the ~1 1/2" gap between the hole drilled earlier and the end of the slot. I drilled a hole so I could solvent weld it in place, as an added measure I also put screws into but not through these parts.
Final position, sort of hard to tell (I should make one of these out of clear PVC)
If you have any issues with the parts not fitting quite as well after assembly tape some sandpaper to a long piece of CPVC and fix it by sanding 'til it works.
I inserted the 1/2" PVC part of the pump bar marked where holes should be drilled so the pump could be reassembled inside the main body, then did so.
I inserted the 3/4" to 1/2" reducing bushing into the remaining 3/4" endcap, cut it in half and put the cap end on the end of the pump bar. Save the other half.
I cut and sanded the 1/2" PVC elbow to fit over the 5/8" drill hole on the main body and the other half of the endcap-reducing bushing thing to slide over 1/2" PVC
Solvent welded in place, make sure it's strait. It's important.
This will use the CPVC parts and the plunger head setup.
The rearmost thing is half of the coupler, it will hold the catchface in place, it needs to be a few inches back because the spring is a little shorter than optimal. All parts are solvent welded together. If you use a clothespin trigger you will need to figure that out on your own, in fact the nuances of catching are sort of ad-lib anyway, just do whatever you want; HEC's are magic anyway.
Back to the Handle
I cut polycarb parts as needed
as well as cut a bit out of the main body for the HEC catch.
and assembled, added a spring
Here you can see one of the screws I used to attach the two sections together after inserting the necessary parts (spring, plungerrod). I used the chunk of 2" PVC here as a cheek rest, it is a lot more comfortable than the edge of a coupler.
And that should be all you need to make a complete blaster.
Note; I'm not telling how to make a HEC catch because they have a tendency to not really work all that well and newer nerfers would probably not have the tools necessary. The one shown works absolutely perfectly, I'm just not sure how they fail/not work when it really looks like they should. I might just make a guide including all necessary information for their replication.
Any questions/comments are welcome.
Relevant; as you can see in the first shot the dart is already within the chamfered end of the barrel, I do not think that the Venturi effect is at work here. Though it is possible that it's acting upon the dart behind, as it appears to jump up a little (probably due to the pressure differences across the length of the clip) and then go back down as the first dart is leaving or has immediately left the barrel.
The original HEC 2(a) is in the middle, I initially wanted a standard handle positioning.
+ Good enough weather
+ Cheese balls and chocolate chip cookies
+ Decent dart recovery
+/- 5 people in Dereks maverick
+ Hec 2 repurposement actually worked very well
+/- Zachs Sceptor with paintball practice balls
- Time spent derping and not nerfing