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#301952 SNAP Carbine mk2

Posted by Wes7143 on 21 July 2011 - 08:34 AM in Homemades

This snap looks pretty cool, I guess. I'll give it that. But unfortunately, you need to accept that this blaster is of inferior design to pretty much any standard snap that can be made with less effort, and achieve better/safer performance. I understand the desire to make atypical blasters that look cool; I've made a couple simply for that purpose, but you need to stop defending it as if you built it for performance, because it can be torn apart (e.g. by Zorn) pretty easily in that regard.

#300150 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Wes7143 on 19 June 2011 - 02:37 PM in Homemades

New WIP:

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Has the same internals as my bolt action rifle, but has the ability to feed from Nerf brand magazines.

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It feeds by sliding the barrel forward and back as you prime, like so:

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Please feel free to PM me any questions.

#297756 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Wes7143 on 01 May 2011 - 07:25 PM in Homemades

Finished up on my bolt action. I might add some metal furniture and decoration here and there, but all of the functional features are in place.

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Added an actual trigger.

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Trigger link is about as simple as it gets.

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I may or may not make a video on this one. I don't think there's anything new enough to have to explain via video, but if anyone has any lingering questions on how it works, feel free to PM me, and I'll explain, or post a video explaining.

#297605 Reverse Plunger enhancement

Posted by Wes7143 on 27 April 2011 - 09:18 AM in Modifications

If I'm understanding this correctly, this does the same thing as a power stock, but it's internal? This is really neat if the internal spring you've got in there is powerful enough not to need that pesky outer spring, which makes reassembly of these blasters somewhat tricky.

#297587 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Wes7143 on 26 April 2011 - 09:29 PM in Homemades

Nearly finished on my bolt action. Just needs a trigger link from the front to back, so it can be fired like a normal rifle. Here's a video to explain.

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#296725 Internal Air Compressor Titan (nerf Modification)

Posted by Wes7143 on 27 March 2011 - 09:47 PM in Modifications

Very useful modification. Although I object to the lack of using rockets and missiles from such an over-sized tank. If you don't mind me asking, I'd really like to see some internal photos (or video if your camera only records in video) to see how you've configured the thing inside of there.

Also, where exactly are your accents from? They sounded like a hash up of Aussie and Asian to me.

#295916 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Wes7143 on 13 March 2011 - 12:10 AM in Homemades

Here's another WIP photo of the bolt action. The blockyness still seen on a lot of the stock will go away as I slowly use primitive tools to grind it down.

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A blaster is never really yours until you bleed on it.

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#295216 Lanard Shotgun Problems

Posted by Wes7143 on 01 March 2011 - 07:22 PM in Modifications

Wes7143, please next time actually read the post because I stated that the seal is barely touching the turret and the turret is stripped down with no barrels. In addition the turret works with no plunger tube.

Well next time don't fuck up your gun, and then complain because of an imperfect reply giving helpful advice. I don't know your idea of "barely touching", and I also said that the turret seal might not be the source of the friction. Also, I don't know how much hot glue you used to attach your barrels, and the turret could still potentially be too heavy to move. I gave you a very general response on what could be causing the problem. Don't complain.

#295213 Lanard Shotgun Problems

Posted by Wes7143 on 01 March 2011 - 06:29 PM in Modifications

It could be one of three things. Go through each and make sure you figure out which it is.

It could be friction, as stated by the other user, probably between the plunger seal and turret face, but other sources of friction could be present. Make sure that if the rotation arm isn't present, the turret can spin easily.

It could be mis-alignment or jamming of the precise little mechanical plastic bits. Make sure the rotation arm can move through the mech without encountering any gunk, and that everything is in the right place.

It could also be that your barrels are too heavy, causing your slip mech to engage, a design put into the turret to prevent rotation if there's too much stress on the barrels to prevent damage. What most people do to fix this is they take apart their turret and glue the mech together, so that the only thing that turns the turret is the rotation arm's movement. Keep in mind that you lose the ability to hand-rotate the barrels with this modification.

Hope this helps.

#295175 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Wes7143 on 28 February 2011 - 07:49 PM in Homemades

I finished my core functional bit of my bolt action snap. Obviously, the overall blaster is very unfinished, and lacks a stock, grip, and other comfortable bits, but everything that makes the blaster fire darts is complete.

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The snap is true bolt action, with a locking bolt coming out of the rear. Here it is in the locked/unprimed position.

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Here it is again, with the bolt pulled back.

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Notice there is no tension on the spring, even with the blaster cached.

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Tension is added by pushing the bolt back in to the locked position. Notice the spring is slightly more compressed with the bolt halfway pushed in.

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Here is a 1/4 scale drawing of what I hope the finished product to look like.

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Here is a roughly drawn assembly of the internal parts.

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Here is an older rough drawing, that may explain some of how the blaster works. Please ignore the estimated measurements, and mess.

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And because a picture is worth a thousand words, and a video is several pictures per second, here is a video showing the blaster's function.

Edit: Please feel free to PM me any questions about the blaster.

#294728 Pistol Splat Spring Replacement

Posted by Wes7143 on 19 February 2011 - 10:10 PM in Modifications

Doesn't this also make tension adjustable? Since you can adjust the placement of the nuts with spacers. I think for that reason, this would be a handy mod to do, even without the replacement spring.

#294709 The Ohio Revolution

Posted by Wes7143 on 19 February 2011 - 02:41 PM in Nerf Wars

Although the planning is still a long ways to go, I'm a maybe for carpooling with Pops. I'd love to meet y'all.

#294250 Angel Breech That Accepts Streamlines

Posted by Wes7143 on 09 February 2011 - 06:11 AM in Modifications

Wooh! Takin' a trip back to '08 modifications! :)

Seriously though, props. I tried to do something similar, and totally failed because of the tight margins involved. Personally, I think streamlines are the only darts that should be used with longshots still using the Nerf clips, not because it's difficult to stefan modify the clips, but because it's just better to have clip compatibility with everyone.

#294138 Slugs And Domes And Taggers, Oh My!

Posted by Wes7143 on 07 February 2011 - 11:32 PM in General Nerf

I think people from different areas are definitely going to have different perspectives on the kind of darts used. Where I nerf, we have very few participants, so when a derp shows up with dome darts that are pretty much death darts, we just make them use our darts. People who nerf in areas with too many participants to handle the amount of stupidity that naturally shows up at a war might favor some regulation. Slug darts aren't the worst things ever, and neither are properly made dome darts.

#293328 Scammed Again For $190!

Posted by Wes7143 on 24 January 2011 - 11:53 PM in General Nerf

Call up an ebay agent or something. Technology can be a real bitch sometimes, but talking to a real person can be the best help in the world at times like those.

#292503 Long Range Primary?

Posted by Wes7143 on 09 January 2011 - 08:47 PM in General Nerf

A 4B or a snap would be the two cheapest and best performing choices.

#292279 Foamtalk: A Nerf Podcast

Posted by Wes7143 on 05 January 2011 - 06:29 PM in General Nerf

If you want my indifferent opinion for a podcast, I volunteer myself.

#291889 Homemade Magstrike Piston And Write-up

Posted by Wes7143 on 31 December 2010 - 12:07 AM in Homemades

That is a very lovely rate of fire. Based off the physics of the original magstrike, that leads me to believe that it's giving off a decent amount of air each time. I'm interested in seeing this thing with a barrel and hopper.

#291575 How To Make Cpvc A Good Barreling Material

Posted by Wes7143 on 26 December 2010 - 03:52 PM in General Nerf

This also makes the inside of the CPVC rough, harming your foam over time. There are better barrels for stock darts, like 17/32 brass tubing. I suggest using that instead. Much easier to push darts into, too, because it seems to have less friction with the foam.

Edit: 17/32 brass tubing will also always be the same size, no matter where or when you buy it.

#287249 Catch Concept Idea

Posted by Wes7143 on 20 October 2010 - 04:45 PM in General Nerf

The only problem I can see is that your nail is going to be much longer, since you're connecting it up towards a more central catch, rather than a snap catch, which is only about 1/16 from the edges of the PT. The extra length of the nail may give the spring force some leverage to push the nail aside.

#286358 Snapbow Mk. V, Revised

Posted by Wes7143 on 01 October 2010 - 05:17 PM in Homemades

A coupler fits and works perfectly, and for 50 cents, I eliminate 2 annoying mitered cuts, plus a measurement. Well worth it.

If I may defend my opinion, the 1.5" eliminates the need to grind out the center ring, which takes far longer than cutting off a section of pipe. Both require the 1/4 being removed. The piping, for me, is simply more easily workable to exactly how I want it to be. Both do the same exact thing.

#286350 Snapbow Mk. V, Revised

Posted by Wes7143 on 01 October 2010 - 04:14 PM in Homemades

Although 1.5" PVC stuff has been brought up before in this write up, I don't believe its purpose in snaps has been fully realized. Using a 1.25" coupler as the handle bracket is silly. I used a few inches of 1.5" sch.40 PVC pipe, for the same purpose and it works way better than the coupler. Super tight fit, and it snaps on, and grips hard.This snap has the sort of handle clip I'm talking about.

#286087 Ultimate Raider

Posted by Wes7143 on 26 September 2010 - 12:03 PM in Modifications

Where's the "stock plastic" on the breech portion supposed to go when the breech is closed... didn't think about that, did you?

#285626 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Wes7143 on 17 September 2010 - 10:50 PM in Homemades

Schnap Bow.

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It's got magnets to keep the handle forward.

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#285417 Stampede Problems

Posted by Wes7143 on 14 September 2010 - 08:45 PM in Modifications

This happened to me, as well. After opening it and closing it a few times, precisely adjusting the placement of things, it worked. Likely, nothing is broken, but something it slightly out of place, triggering a safety. For me, the problem was the positioning of the slide cover. It needs to be precisely in the right position upon re-assembly, or it will trip a safety.

#285254 Quick Stampede Rechargeable Battery Mini Write-up

Posted by Wes7143 on 10 September 2010 - 09:42 PM in Modifications

Why was HALF the video, you screwing in the screws?

Because the video needed to include me putting the new battery into the gun, to prove that it worked. If you wanted to see a stampede fire, there are several other videos on the web.

How much did this cost you to do?

It cost me nothing, because I already had the materials. If you wanted to buy a tamiya plug, it would cost anywhere from $1.50 to $5.00, depending on where you get it from. I got mine from a cheap wall charger for an airsoft gun. As for the battery, prices range from $15 to $70, depending on the size, MAH, voltage, chemistry, and brand.

One thing to mention: If you are going to take apart the battery sled, two of the screws appear to be a weird triangle bit. Basically like a hex, but a triangle instead (not a tri-wing). I used a T7 Torx bit and it worked fine on it.
Just something to keep in mind, because a standard or Phillips head won't work.

I didn't need to take the triangular screws out to remove the sliding battery guides, although removing those screws would probably make it a little easier.

#285178 Quick Stampede Rechargeable Battery Mini Write-up

Posted by Wes7143 on 09 September 2010 - 05:59 PM in Modifications

I bought a Stampede the other day, and I'm lazy. I mean, I didn't even want to go buy D cells, I was so lazy. So, I thought of a quick, extremely simple modification that took me about 5 minutes once I had everything gathered together.


-Large Tamiya MALE type connector (found at just about any hobby shop)

-A battery of the proper voltage with a large Tamiya female type connector. (I used an 8.4V)

-(optional) an insulation of some kind (could be paper, foam.. anything to stop an undersized battery from rattling around)



-A clipping or cutting tool

-Soldering iron

Here are all of the necessary materials together with the gun

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Start by removing the tabs and barriers inside of the battery box. The middle divider needs to be clipped, but the others come out easily if you unscrew the bottom of the battery box.

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After establishing the positive and negative ends of both the battery box and the wires on your connector, solder the wires to their respective spots on the side of the battery box that enters the gun first.

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Your battery should fit in, since the stampede has such a large battery box. If you find your battery does not have enough room, use a dremel to completely remove the middle divider.

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Add some insulation if necessary.

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And, the blaster should work, like so:

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Feel free to leave praises, flames, or death threats.

#284979 Western Ma Wars?

Posted by Wes7143 on 06 September 2010 - 09:12 PM in Nerf Wars

There's a war in Salem MA the 19th. However, there's no thread, so PM me if you intend on coming, and I'll fill you in on the details.

#284616 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests

Posted by Wes7143 on 02 September 2010 - 05:22 PM in Modifications

Yeah, I've been looking around. Most of these battery packs are only about 1/6 the capacity of a D battery, so I'm wondering how long they will last with extended use in a battle. Can anyone comment on the charge duration of these packs? Or the power draw of the Stampede?

EDIT: I've been looking into it, and I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to just get something like these, plus a charger:


About twice the capacity as the max-rated battery pack, and would require no modification to the gun itself.

Wow, those are some pretty high capacity batteries.. Anyways, I've got a 8.4V 1500 MAH lithium ion battery. It lasts about 6 hours of shooting for a high torque motor in an airsoft electric. It takes about 2-3 hours to charge with a smart charger. I think 6 hours of shooting is plenty for a nerf war. You would just have to remember to recharge it before the next one.

#284602 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests

Posted by Wes7143 on 02 September 2010 - 03:49 PM in Modifications

I was thinking about doing this. Seen it done with the Vulcan and it looks like a pretty easy mod. Just need to find some reasonably-priced 9.6v (or whatever the closest to 9V is) packs.

I would guess that this site would have cheap battery packs. You can create your own size, shape, voltage, whatever. Or you could buy the "common airsoft batteries", making sure that the connector is "large type", and that it's not too big to fit.

#284587 Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / Rof & Firing Tests

Posted by Wes7143 on 02 September 2010 - 02:02 PM in Modifications

Do you think at any point, you would consider attaching a Tamiya large type plug (where the alligator clamps currently are), so that you would be able to use some hobby batteries, which can have very long MAH, and are fully rechargeable?

The batteries are available in just about any size, voltage, and MAH specs you want, for a price of $15-$70, depending on the quality of the battery.

#284062 Orange Fbr

Posted by Wes7143 on 26 August 2010 - 09:50 PM in Darts and Barrels

Nerf brand dart foam is orange and is always the same size. If you make 1.25" darts, it's about $8 per 60 darts. Not exactly a steal, but it's good foam with a bright color. If you choose to go this route, I suggest suction cup darts. Their heads are the easiest to remove without damaging the foam.

#283641 Homemades Picture Thread

Posted by Wes7143 on 20 August 2010 - 11:56 PM in Homemades

My HAMP is better than yours.

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This is why:

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Fires 1-4 darts based on how fast/hard you push.

#283286 Quadshots: The Ice Way

Posted by Wes7143 on 16 August 2010 - 10:25 PM in Modifications

The stock skirt is still there, but when blown down the barrel, air goes past the sides. E-tape is used to keep it airtight. I needed to make the turret seal wider to accommodate for wider holes at the end of the turret. Thats what makes it seal....

The new spring was needed for the catch, it wasn't functioning with the old one.

The reason air goes past the sides, is because the skirt only flares under pressure/friction (which is present when you fire the blaster). Also, the wider turret seal is not needed if you aren't sloppy when making the rearloading holes to the turret. I used both stock plunger/turret seals on my quaddie, and I could stop the plunger by placing my finger over the end of the active barrel.

#283283 Quadshots: The Ice Way

Posted by Wes7143 on 16 August 2010 - 10:14 PM in Modifications

I hate replying with negative comments to modification write-ups, but I really must protest to this. You've made several of the quadshot features worse. It had a stock skirt seal, which you replaced with E-tape, it had a rubber plunger head pad, which you replaced with a foam disc... I've also had no problems with the turret seal, and as far as I've seen you've only made it more touchy.

The only "right way" things you've done here is the catch reinforcement and barrel replacement. Changing to a more replaceable spring style was also neat, but not needed, because of the design of the catch.

#283082 Thread "locked" Wothout Explaination.

Posted by Wes7143 on 13 August 2010 - 08:52 PM in Site Feedback

To give validity to cire36's curiosity, a lot of people seem to think that my "1st generation" recon is better, or more desirable in some way than the new one. Some kid even tried to steal it because he thought it was so rare and cool. Giving him a shit fit, even though you have no real knowledge on the subject is idiotic.

I believe the reason the old thread was locked was because of anticipation of posts like that of "Death by cheez".

#282112 War Of The River 2

Posted by Wes7143 on 04 August 2010 - 03:07 PM in Nerf Wars

I will be a maybe right up to the Wednesday before which ever date you decide.

#280609 Help!

Posted by Wes7143 on 18 July 2010 - 05:51 PM in Modifications

Your barrels are too long, and/or your seal from the plungers to the barrels is terrible.

#280335 War Of The River

Posted by Wes7143 on 15 July 2010 - 03:11 PM in Nerf Wars

Unless Shelby can find someone to cover for her (which isn't likely), she won't be warring with us. My other nerfing friend is also busy. Jack has something to do that day, also.

I'll be selling 125' of beige foam, and about 200 1.5" banks. Realized that I don't like that diameter.

The mobstacles aren't perfect, but they're as good as I can make them. They'll stand upright well in a breeze, but a strong gust folds the things over.

I'll be showing up an hour early to make sure everything is alright to be set up. I recommend titanium2 also shows up early, because he has some material for the mobstacles.

#278647 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Wes7143 on 26 June 2010 - 08:47 PM in Modifications

My Triple shot.

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She takes it from the rear.

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