- → Wes7143's Content
There have been 572 items by Wes7143 (Search limited from 19-January 93)
Added an actual trigger.
Trigger link is about as simple as it gets.
I may or may not make a video on this one. I don't think there's anything new enough to have to explain via video, but if anyone has any lingering questions on how it works, feel free to PM me, and I'll explain, or post a video explaining.
Also, where exactly are your accents from? They sounded like a hash up of Aussie and Asian to me.
Wes7143, please next time actually read the post because I stated that the seal is barely touching the turret and the turret is stripped down with no barrels. In addition the turret works with no plunger tube.
Well next time don't fuck up your gun, and then complain because of an imperfect reply giving helpful advice. I don't know your idea of "barely touching", and I also said that the turret seal might not be the source of the friction. Also, I don't know how much hot glue you used to attach your barrels, and the turret could still potentially be too heavy to move. I gave you a very general response on what could be causing the problem. Don't complain.
It could be friction, as stated by the other user, probably between the plunger seal and turret face, but other sources of friction could be present. Make sure that if the rotation arm isn't present, the turret can spin easily.
It could be mis-alignment or jamming of the precise little mechanical plastic bits. Make sure the rotation arm can move through the mech without encountering any gunk, and that everything is in the right place.
It could also be that your barrels are too heavy, causing your slip mech to engage, a design put into the turret to prevent rotation if there's too much stress on the barrels to prevent damage. What most people do to fix this is they take apart their turret and glue the mech together, so that the only thing that turns the turret is the rotation arm's movement. Keep in mind that you lose the ability to hand-rotate the barrels with this modification.
Hope this helps.
The snap is true bolt action, with a locking bolt coming out of the rear. Here it is in the locked/unprimed position.
Here it is again, with the bolt pulled back.
Notice there is no tension on the spring, even with the blaster cached.
Tension is added by pushing the bolt back in to the locked position. Notice the spring is slightly more compressed with the bolt halfway pushed in.
Here is a 1/4 scale drawing of what I hope the finished product to look like.
Here is a roughly drawn assembly of the internal parts.
Here is an older rough drawing, that may explain some of how the blaster works. Please ignore the estimated measurements, and mess.
And because a picture is worth a thousand words, and a video is several pictures per second, here is a video showing the blaster's function.
Edit: Please feel free to PM me any questions about the blaster.
Seriously though, props. I tried to do something similar, and totally failed because of the tight margins involved. Personally, I think streamlines are the only darts that should be used with longshots still using the Nerf clips, not because it's difficult to stefan modify the clips, but because it's just better to have clip compatibility with everyone.
Edit: 17/32 brass tubing will also always be the same size, no matter where or when you buy it.
A coupler fits and works perfectly, and for 50 cents, I eliminate 2 annoying mitered cuts, plus a measurement. Well worth it.
If I may defend my opinion, the 1.5" eliminates the need to grind out the center ring, which takes far longer than cutting off a section of pipe. Both require the 1/4 being removed. The piping, for me, is simply more easily workable to exactly how I want it to be. Both do the same exact thing.
Because the video needed to include me putting the new battery into the gun, to prove that it worked. If you wanted to see a stampede fire, there are several other videos on the web.
Why was HALF the video, you screwing in the screws?
It cost me nothing, because I already had the materials. If you wanted to buy a tamiya plug, it would cost anywhere from $1.50 to $5.00, depending on where you get it from. I got mine from a cheap wall charger for an airsoft gun. As for the battery, prices range from $15 to $70, depending on the size, MAH, voltage, chemistry, and brand.
How much did this cost you to do?
I didn't need to take the triangular screws out to remove the sliding battery guides, although removing those screws would probably make it a little easier.
One thing to mention: If you are going to take apart the battery sled, two of the screws appear to be a weird triangle bit. Basically like a hex, but a triangle instead (not a tri-wing). I used a T7 Torx bit and it worked fine on it.
Just something to keep in mind, because a standard or Phillips head won't work.
-Large Tamiya MALE type connector (found at just about any hobby shop)
-A battery of the proper voltage with a large Tamiya female type connector. (I used an 8.4V)
-(optional) an insulation of some kind (could be paper, foam.. anything to stop an undersized battery from rattling around)
-A clipping or cutting tool
Here are all of the necessary materials together with the gun
Start by removing the tabs and barriers inside of the battery box. The middle divider needs to be clipped, but the others come out easily if you unscrew the bottom of the battery box.
After establishing the positive and negative ends of both the battery box and the wires on your connector, solder the wires to their respective spots on the side of the battery box that enters the gun first.
Your battery should fit in, since the stampede has such a large battery box. If you find your battery does not have enough room, use a dremel to completely remove the middle divider.
Add some insulation if necessary.
And, the blaster should work, like so:
Feel free to leave praises, flames, or death threats.
Yeah, I've been looking around. Most of these battery packs are only about 1/6 the capacity of a D battery, so I'm wondering how long they will last with extended use in a battle. Can anyone comment on the charge duration of these packs? Or the power draw of the Stampede?
EDIT: I've been looking into it, and I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to just get something like these, plus a charger:
About twice the capacity as the max-rated battery pack, and would require no modification to the gun itself.
Wow, those are some pretty high capacity batteries.. Anyways, I've got a 8.4V 1500 MAH lithium ion battery. It lasts about 6 hours of shooting for a high torque motor in an airsoft electric. It takes about 2-3 hours to charge with a smart charger. I think 6 hours of shooting is plenty for a nerf war. You would just have to remember to recharge it before the next one.
I was thinking about doing this. Seen it done with the Vulcan and it looks like a pretty easy mod. Just need to find some reasonably-priced 9.6v (or whatever the closest to 9V is) packs.
I would guess that this site would have cheap battery packs. You can create your own size, shape, voltage, whatever. Or you could buy the "common airsoft batteries", making sure that the connector is "large type", and that it's not too big to fit.
The batteries are available in just about any size, voltage, and MAH specs you want, for a price of $15-$70, depending on the quality of the battery.
The stock skirt is still there, but when blown down the barrel, air goes past the sides. E-tape is used to keep it airtight. I needed to make the turret seal wider to accommodate for wider holes at the end of the turret. Thats what makes it seal....
The new spring was needed for the catch, it wasn't functioning with the old one.
The reason air goes past the sides, is because the skirt only flares under pressure/friction (which is present when you fire the blaster). Also, the wider turret seal is not needed if you aren't sloppy when making the rearloading holes to the turret. I used both stock plunger/turret seals on my quaddie, and I could stop the plunger by placing my finger over the end of the active barrel.
The only "right way" things you've done here is the catch reinforcement and barrel replacement. Changing to a more replaceable spring style was also neat, but not needed, because of the design of the catch.
I believe the reason the old thread was locked was because of anticipation of posts like that of "Death by cheez".
I'll be selling 125' of beige foam, and about 200 1.5" banks. Realized that I don't like that diameter.
The mobstacles aren't perfect, but they're as good as I can make them. They'll stand upright well in a breeze, but a strong gust folds the things over.
I'll be showing up an hour early to make sure everything is alright to be set up. I recommend titanium2 also shows up early, because he has some material for the mobstacles.