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There have been 229 items by pat 1st Lt (Search limited from 17-May 93)
If you could get a circular case that was larger in diameter it might work better. A larger case would mean more room for the rubber bands to stretch, meaner better acceleration and range.
I'd also look into stronger rubber bands.
If I were you I wouldn't give up yet.
I, for one, would rather see more of the public executions. It gets the point across to the masses much more effectivley than if some person who joined yesterday jsut stops posting. The notification is what I always felt kept new people in line. Maybe the admins have had different experiences there, but I always thought that the act of telling the person (And everyone else) what they did, and letting everyone see the penalty they had to pay was an effective deterent.
Hope you guys have a fun time cleaning up. And thank you, Piney, for not giving up. You were a bit soft from what I've seen, but I'm glad you're not going to leave. And thanks to all the admins in general. The last two months have opened my eyes greatly to the importance of having a good staff constantly contributing to the forum and keeping it clean.
I never realized how big a role the admins played in the keeping up of discussion. I would've thought that after a while, the community would become fairly self-regulating, with only occasional need for intervention. I obviously was wrong.
Again, a great big thanks to the admins for the job they've been doing. I never realized how much you guys contributed, content wise, to the forums.
I may drop you a line sometime in early December, so don't go throwing away those molds! (Not that I think you would. You put a lot of effort into those, and it shows!) If I don't end up contacting you, I'm probably busy with some personal stuff.
I look forward to other such projects you might choose to undertake in the future. *Hint hint* People have been talking about metal replacement parts for a long time...
Very nice idea. Very well done, too. Looks much better than the ones Nolan and I made. Stronger too. We were reluctant to go the metal route. I like the fact that it's aluminum: very strong but very light (for a metal). Very nice. This idea's been talked about for a long time (Replaceable metal parts in general) and I'm glad to see someone who's actually doing it. I hope to see you around The Haven more. I hope you keep up this excellent work with even more parts.
One question though. How did you actually go about making them? I understand from bolt's CAD files, but how did you actually do the manufacturing? Most people who Nerf don't have access to aerospace machinery to work with aluminum very well.
I love the idea and the execution. But in a way I'm glad I'm not you; Do you know how many people are going to be pestering you night and day to make them parts now? Good luck, David, handling all the soon-to-come demand.
I am trying to do two things: quiet the sound some, and eliminate the stress on the plunger.
Your first goal is achievable. Your second is impossible unless you can rig some magnet-driven, near frictionless plunger setup.
I take it you know how a plunger works. Stress is it the basic princible it works on. Compression and release of a spring pushes the air-tight plunger which compresses the air as it moves. That compressed air then has to push the dart out of the barrel to equalize the pressure.
You cannot take the stress off the plunger. You can only reinforce it. There is no way to lessen the forces acting on the plunger without afffecting the range (Which I assume you want to stay close to what it currently is). For the Longshot, I would suggest doing what many others have done: take two aluminum washers, a neoprene washer, and a heavier screw and replace the plunger head assembly.
You don't have to worry about the plunger shaft breaking. The shaft is essentially a guide. It has very little stress on it. The highest stress point is the connection between the shaft and the plunger head assembly. Reinforce that, and you're set on the durability front.
Now, you're not going to believe this, but try it before you dismiss it: put some FBR between the shaft and the springs. Much of the noise is the springs knocking each other and expanding. Another tip: glue the springs to the back of the plunger face. By doing this, you will eliminate any rattle that goes on, since the springs won't be able to bounce back and forth between the plunger face and the back of the plunger tube.
*Fwheew* That took a long time to type. Hope it helps out a bit. But, realistically, you are not going to get a Longshot very quiet. You'd be better off taking a look at this. It was a very quiet rifle when finished. If you want something to fire from a concealed location without detection, don't take a Longshot.
Personally, I'd say put a new pump in, but since you don't want to... I'd say cut the head of the pump off, and firmly attach it to a piece of CVPC. Then, you could nest the CPVC in some sanded out 1/2" PVC for a nice handle at the end.
All in all, the biggest problem would be getting the pump head to stay on the CVPC snugly. But if you know how to use epoxy correctly, it shouldn't be a problem. But if you don't know, here's a refresher:
Sand both pieces you plan to glue very well.
Score both pieces with a knife of some sort (X-Acto knife is fairly safe, and will work fine)
Wash both pieces with soap, and rinse very well.
Dry both pieces, and figure out exactly how you want them to fit together.
Mix your epoxy very well.
Apply your epoxy liberally, but carefully. That is to say, enough to cover the surfaces, but not so much as to be messy.
Hold your pieces together for ~5 minutes and wait for the epoxy to dry enough that it won't drip (This can take anywhere from 3 minutes to 1 hour, depending on brand, weather conditions, and location).
Put your pieces on a protected surface (On towels or rags or something), and let dry for 24 hours. Preferably with a weight on them, but in this case (A long CPVC shaft) you may find it ahrd to weight it.
That's about all there is to epoxying things correctly. Do it well, and the rest of the gun will break before that pump breaks. I'm pretty sure you know how to do things like this. Those steps were mostly for anyone else who wanted to do this that had never worked with something like this.
The Rattler is not the best gun out there. Hands down. But that doesn't mean it isn't worth owning. Just because some people don't like it as much as others is no reason to get rid of it or leave it alone.
It's different. To many, that's a bad thing. However, how do you know that some brilliant insight won't hit you, and you come up with an amazing mod for it? How do you know that you won't like the mechanism? Just because it's weird doesn't mean its a piece of shit. You may turn out to love it.
People think that the Perceptor is possibly the worst gun Nerf made. But when you take it apart, take that funky little plunger/barrel assembly, and do some simple mods, it turns into a very respectable springer. In fact, it's unique shape makes it very handy for Assassins games.
My point is, even the shittiest gun can be made into something useable. It all just comes down to how useable you want/like it.
Found this in Site Feedback in about 30 seconds
You have to host your pictures somewhere. That guide should explain it thoroughly.
And, this is a great site. I mean just imagine: a warm summer's morning, the smell of lavender in the air, hot oil having been just rubbed all over my body, logging onto Nerf Haven and reading the latest thread...The Goddess of Love herself would swoon. Simply orgasmic.
Back on topic: eye wear is good no matter what. Even if you can dodge well, lets say that while you're dodging a shot, someone that you didn't see to your left side fires. You turn, not not seeing him or his dart and are hit square in the eye. It can happen. 'Skill' is no excuse.
Read that link I posted. This may be a Nerf forum, but I think anyone who's ever played a gun-based game has to read 1-I's medical folder at least once in their life.
Who said anything about them being stuffed? Unless of course you mean filled with soft squishy food, so that they provide even more cushioning.
But on a serious note: try and find some other people to Nerf with. There's nothing wrong with Nerfing with your sister; but if you want to use 'heavier weapons' find people more willing to get hit. My general rule is that if I feel bad about shooting them, they're not the right kind of person to be playing with seriously. If we're just dicking around inside, thatís another story.
But if you want to have a more 'intense' war, find several people about your age or older and play with them. Don't try and up-armor your sister so she can take more and more hits so she eventually becomes a target. Thatís not fun for you or her. And fun is what this is all about, right?
It may be a paintball website, but the exact same rules apply to Nerf. And if you don't read the entire article (At least most of it), you are a bad person. Eye related injuries are no laughing matter at all. Not in any sport.
Now, we Nerfers are generally of the oppinion that 'if you can't take the pain, leave!'. Well, I don't care how tough you are: those big round squishy things in your face can still pop. Now, a shot to the chest? Yes, it will hurt and maybe welt or bruise, but it will go away soon enough. However, a shot to the eye? You're going to be out of it for way more than a couple seconds. And by way more, I mean possibly for life.
Eye protection is [b]no laughing matter.[b] It is mandatory at every war I've been to. And if I ever go to a war where it is optional, or discouraged, I may just 'forcibly suggest' that they wear eye protection (Via a combination of Duct Tape and Staples if necessary).
I have no idea who voted 'No' in this poll, but if they do without offering an explanation such as 'We only use stock guns' then may God have mercy on their souls. More specifically their eyes. [/rant]
Anyway, I use some Oakley goggles than my father gave me after he came back from deployment. They're comfortable, breathable, and tinted just enough to be useful on bright summer days, but not so dark that they can't be used at twilight. If you don't have any fancy goggles or paintball masks, you can always just go to wherever you buy PVC and they should have some kind of eye protection is stock.
Overall, eye protection is not only essential in Nerf and other such games, but in all aspects of life. People don't realize how much they use their eyes until they stop working...
My personal technique is to not get hit. I find it works pretty well. But hey, that's just me.
So, now we're got a healthy mix of guns that use just micros, some that use just megas, and some that have couplers so we can choose. I generally use megas, but there are many excellent guns out there (Such as the Magstrike) that unfortunately are micro-only.
Most fun: I picked arrows. balls, etc. because I can only assume Vortex Rings are considered 'etc.'
New mega guns: probably not unless they decide to do some re-releasing. And even then, they're likely to rechamber them to micros. And I can see why; it takes a certain amount if energy to get a mega dart to 40'. It takes less energy to get a micro dart to go 40'. Since they now need less energy, they can use a smaller volume of air. That means the plunger/air tank can be smaller, and there is less chance of modders hurting others or themselves with it (Which seems to be a bigger concern of theirs than they'd like to admit).
I'd love to see some new mega-shooting guns, though. I just don't think Hasbro has any real reasons to use megas. If they ever need to use megas for something (I.e. Tech Target Gun; it was either make the darts more powerful by using megas, or spend a shit-load of money making the target more sensitive) they will always have the option of resurrecting the mega.
In my book, a modded Longshot is better than a clip-modded BBB which is better than a clip-modded Crossbow, which is better than a single-barreled Crossbow which is better than a single barreled BBB.
The Longshot has all the greatness of a Bacon-Bow plus Crossbow range. In my book, ROF is better than range as long as that range is 'enough'. That's why I'd rather have a magazine-fed BBBB than a magazine fed Xbow. But, since the Longshot has the range and the ROF, it's better than both in my opinion.
I'm not sure the parts you're working with will like CO2 as much as they would HPA.
And, you said that you had a compressor at work? Well, this is an assumption, and I could be very wrong about this, but you said that you 'have a compressor at work'. I'm assuming that it's an air compressor. In which case, you'd want an HPA tank.
Also, HPA is way less difficult to work with. The pressure's won't fluxuate nearly as much as CO2 will. A paintball marker hooked to CO2 needs a lot more chronying than one running HPA. That link I gave you is a very good deal for that tank. If I were you (And I didn't have any HPA tanks already)
I've no real idea of the efficiency of the guns design, but a 48ci tank should be plenty enough.
Also, if you're going for minimization I'd suggest off-gun air. You can get a decent remote line w/ a slide check for $15 if it's on sale. Probably less for one on eBay. Off-gun will let you carry the weight on your back, meaning that there will be less mass on the part that you actually swing around.
Anyway, hope you're feeling better soon.
I too have a problem. It's that my darts hot glue tips crack once they hit something. Can any one help?
I cleaned up your quote a bit.
Anyway, your problem is either than you're using a high-temp glue gun with glue that is brittle, or that your weights are not far enough in the foam, and there is too much surface area.
Pick up a new glue gun. Specifically a 'Low Temp' or 'Variable Temp' glue guns. If you have a variable temp one, make sure that it's set on it's lowest setting. And you don't have to spend much; I found mine for $5 at Ocean State Job Lot. You can get a perfectly fine one for about that price or less if it's on sale.
If you already have a Low Temp glue gun, try getting some different glue. When you pick up the package of glue, test it to see if it's springy. Can you bend the sticks of glue without them cracking? If you bend them and let go, do they spring back to their original position? If they do, then you've found the right glue. If the glue is brittle, you don't want it.
Also, when making a dart: push the head of the glue gun far enough in so that the weight is all the way inside the dart. Preferably, the top of the weight should be about 5mm from the top of the hole you burned. That way, you can keep the dome of glue about flush with the top of the dart and also have enough glue to keep the weight secure.
If that doesn't help your problem, I have no idea what could be wrong (Unless of course you made these darts outside in -50 degree weather, and cooled the hot glue down with semi-frozen water. In which case, it's thermal shock and you just need to do it in 'normal' weather.)
Consider yourself warned.
Yessir. I already do.
If ompa cannot be, or isn't immediately available, let one of the other admins take it from there. Everyone else just sit on their hands.
Yessir. I'll remember that from now on. I'm sorry, sir. I'll use PM's more frequently now.
We're tough, but we're fair. Actually, scratch that. We're not fair, so tough.
Very well said. That about sums it up. I don't remember who said it, but Talio's quote brought this to mind: "The benevolence of the dictatorship is in the eyes of the beholder."
I can't speak for everyone around here, but I know that I'll do my part keeping the forums clean and coherent. That's the reason I believe NH is considered by many to be 'better' than NHQ; the coherency. The user-base is almost irrelevant as long as the forum is 'clean' enough to read through, spam wise, grammar wise and spelling wise.
Again: I can't speak for everyone, but I for one am ashamed that we've gotten to the point where we need an entire thread to remind us what we agreed to when we signed up for the site. It's good that this site is based around the well thought out transference of ideas. As somone wise once wrote "On the Internet, you grammar and spelling are your hygene and personal appearance. Don't be a smelly hobo."
Following the lines of Ompa and Boltsniper I'm going to be building a shell-less rifle which will utilize a direct-acting solenoid valve to control a regulated amount of C02 into a SCH40 Chamber.
Do you mean that you would have a plunger-powered setup, with CO2 used to drive the plunger into the cocked position? Or by 'Folloiwng the lines of Ompa and Boltsniper' did you simply mean a shell-less rifle?
Because what I first suggested sounds over-complicated. Cool, but over-complicated.
Alright, no one post about ethics, Munson20, or any talk about the quality of the members of this site!. If I check back here and see a post after mine that has NOT gotten this topic back on course, I will do all in my power (however limited that may be) to see that person be dealt with by our staff here at Nerf Haven.
No one is talk about munson or his posting habbits.
No one is to talk about the maturity of this sites members (unless DIRECTLY relating to a myth)
No one is to do ANY flaming, wether it pertain to a myth or not.
I think those are only fair.
Now, to get us back on topic; the only myth (Other than that Ultimator breaking a kids nose thing) is that if you put a really powerful spring blaster underwater, cock it, cover the barrel with your thumb, take it out of the water, and fire, that the blaster will explode in your hands.
Theoretically, it's possible. Water is an incompressible liquid, so if the spring was strong enough and the plastic weak enough, and the seal with your thumb stronger than the breaking point of the plastic, the spring could rupture the plastic with enough force to give you some nasty cuts, maybe take out an eye.
That's the only real 'myth' I've heard.
EDIT: last man alive got his post in before mine. Thank you very, very much for helping the thread back on topic. That's more along the line of posts that this thread should have started off with.
You all must feel so empowered to bully someone on an online forum! Just because your life revolves around nerf guns and I mine doesn't does not mean you need to make fun of my posts.
You must feel so righteous to 'defend' your 'integrity' on an online forum. Just because you don't know much yet demand respect doesn't mean that you need to over react at everyone's posts about you.
Seriously dude. Calm down... Don't post for a while. If someone says something snide about you, don't post. Yell at your computer as much as you want: we can't hear that. However, when you write something and hit submit, even when this website is dead and gone years from now, somewhere in some search-engine cache your post will be there, for us to quote and throw back at you.
Try not to do things you'll regret. That includes making people hate your guts. And so far, you've been doing a bit more than is healthy.
Just calm down.
Yell all you want. Just don't post it. Because if you do, chances are those very same 'assholes' will throw it back in your face. Be as angry as you want. Just don't tell us about it.
You can be the biggest asshole in real life, but through the magic of the Internet and selective posting, you can seem like the nicest, most civil person. All through deciding what contributes to the conversation, and what doesn't. And responding to a flame with a flame NEVER helps.
If they post a flame, don't respond with a flame. Just drop it. That will ALWAYS turn out better than responding to a flame.
So... in conclusion: calm down. Now.
But really, I don't think any of their idea's would be any different than the really simple home-mades out there, just scaled up. Like a REALLY big SNAP, or maybe some of 3DBBQ's first guns (I'm not calling Carbon and 3DBBQ stupid: I'm just listing some of the more basic home-mades).
It would be interesting to watch, but it probably wouldn't be anything really special. It would very entertaining, but not particularly 'better' than anything the NIC has come up with.
But, then again, they have done some pretty original stuff. I just don't think the mechanics involved in Nerf are their strongest points.
P.S. Think about the admins here and at the HQ. So many people would sign up on both the forums. The boards would be unreadable for weeks if they did a show on Nerf!
The weight would push the foam out of the bottom (That little hole) before it ever pushed the air bubbles out. And if you get rid of the hole, the you're effectively made a container to hold the foam in status. The way the foam cures is by transpiration. For this to take place, there has to be an air exchange going on. This air exchange causes bubbles by it's very nature. Either it cures and there are bubbles, or there are no bubbles, but it isn't dry. And since no one wants to fire a dart made of goo that will fall apart during flight, we can't have no bubbles.
I'm sorry, but expanding insulation foam is not the material for this concept.
If you put a weight on the foam that is heavy enough to squish air bubbles that form, then it will also be heavy enough to exert enough pressure on the foam at the bottom of the tube to keep it from curing.
There may be some other type of foam out there, or some other foam-like material that cures differently, but standard sprayable insulation foam does not work in the way we all would like it to.
I swear, when I head off to college, I'll try and find some suitable materials in Chemistry. But as of now, I'm out of ideas for this concept.
Sorry if anything in my post sounded mean... it's just that I desperately want this concept to work, and I'm angry that it doesn't. I've tried this a million different ways, and ruined a pair of pants with that foam to try to get this to work, and as far as I can tell, it won't unless we REALLY start to overcomplicate it, which refutes the point of this concept: just spray some foam into a mold and *Presto* you've got a bunch of darts.
If anyone has any ideas on differnet materials we could use, I'm sure we'd all love to hear them!
I mean, making up a myth, for the sole purpose of getting on mythbusters? I mean, if there was a rumor that was going around the community on its own, then that would acceptable, but knowingly spreading a myth to get to some end? I don't support it.
Yeah, I love the show. But I don't advocate making shit up just so we could get on the show, or something. I've had this idea before, too. I just have these pesky things grown-ups call 'morals'.
It would be cool to see a Mythbusters episode on Nerf, don't get me wrong. But, they have research teams that actually go around looking for the basis of the Myths they do on the show, and they generally don't air the ones that they find out to be lies. And the fact that you posted this idea on a public-viewable forum means that they'll probably find out about this in less than 10 minutes on Google.
But in terms of being able to obtain everything I have ever wanted out of life, this past month has been the most fulfilling. I have an awesome job, lots of awesome projects to work on, access to lots of tools I never thought I would ever have access to, and I'm almost finished with college.
I'm glad that you're having fun. I hope you start feeling better soon, for your sake. In my experience, no matter how much happiness is around you, dibilitating physical pain is still a bitch.
Hope you start feeling better before next semester, too. You don't want to miss out on too many classes, do you?
I'm not advocating you over-exerting yourself to finish a Nerf gun for people you've never met. I'm just curious what it is that has been keeping you down.
If you'd prefer not to answer, just ignore I ever posted this.
Anyway, on to your actual question: What darts are you comparing them to? And out of what gun?
So, lets say that you're using a Nite Finder. The only mod to it is an air restirctor removal. CDTS's should get better ranges (on average) than stock darts.
The only thing I can think of that would be wrong is you said you were using fishing weights. Are they the fishing weights with the two little prongs to help guide the line in? If they are, that might be your problem. If those two little prongs aren't centered, it can throw off the darts balance a bit, causing it to either turn in flight, or start fish-tailing.
Generally, the problems with off-center weights don't look any different from the shooters perspective, but they can affect range and accuracy enough to have noticable effects when you're actually measuring things.
How many weights are you using? One per dart, or two? I've noticed that different brands have different weights/sizes for the same stock #. Some 3/0 fishing weights are rather heavier than other brands. Your darts may be under-weighted and spinning (Causing more drag, which decreases range), or they may be over-weighted and just being sluggish. My suggestion is try different size weights from diferent brands.
And just a suggestion overall: cut the darts down to about the 2" mark. That probably won't help your problem, but in my experience, they make the darts less likely to spin out.
Sorry about the long post. I'm a talkative person once I start going.
A Nitemav has significantly greater power than a stock Maverick. And CS's front end mod gives it a very high ROF. That's really all you need, and is much less complicated than your idea of the top-break revolver.
It was a good idea, but I don't see how you're gonna pull it off without much experience with a lot of materials or tools.
Had I known earlier, I might've gotten you a gift. And if I lived in Hawaii. On the same island. And didn't live too far away. But the thought was there. But since I didn't have the forethought (Or the money), and since you're born in September, I got you this instead..
It's like real Sapphires, except you can't touch them, and they're not worth anything. But really, isn't a picture of s saphire just as good as the real thing?
Happy birthday, Piney! And many more!
Just out of curiosity, what do you want the clips for?
Are those two screws acting as hardpoints well enough? That is to say, are they holding up well? I'd tend to think that they wouldn't be a very secure way to guide the slide. Have they been coming loose at all? I'd tend to think that just screwing them in wouldn't be that secure if you really cocked the slide hard, over and over.
I would've done the same thing you did to the bolt sled for the foregrip part: put a rod through the holes drilled in the body, and secure it with some washers and some hex nuts. I think that'd hold better, but maybe that'd either have too much friction, or be too loose, depending on how tight you screwed it in.
Overall, I love the mod. Great use of polycarbonate. We never see enough of it used around here. It's a great material to work with. My only qualms are that I have to go out of my way to get it at a reasonable price. I'm sure that you get even better deals, though.
Its a really great idea, executed very, very well. When that Longshot+Secondary gun integration was posted, everyone said that in a few years, that would be remembered as 'The LongShot mod'. I think that this is the one that everyone will remember; Captain Slug's Longshot Foregrip. I might have to do this to our Longshot soon. But I'll use the template you made, instead of making you machine a-million-and-one of these things.
Have to ask the same question as Forsaken: does the dart still get pushed into the back section of the bolt, or does the new bolt-face push the dart straight into the barrel?
I really love the creativity in this mod. I also wonder why no-one else has thought of doing what you did to the magazine. If you use Stefans, chances are that you've had this problem before, and it isn't that hard a problem to solve. But congrats on being the first to write it up (To my knowledge at least).
Very good mod, and well documented.
P.S. It's good to be back! I missed Nerf Haven. But I doubt that anyone noticed I was 'gone' in the first place. Except Vacc... And ompa. Oh well, it's good to be back. And Vacc: thanks for not making it 333.3 times worse for me.
This two-guns-in-one-hand shit's done me wonders over the last decade, or so, but I'd kinda like to have a gun-shield that I actually fire.
Are you the one with the Manta Ray and two Nite Finders? I saw some pictures Badger took and thought to myself 'Why not just a Manta and a Nite Finder?'. It would make sense, however, if you don't actually use the Manta Ray as a gun.
One of my friends had a broken Manta Ray, so I integrated two double-barreld AT2K's into it (Two barrels attached to one air-tank). He loves it now, even though he's not good at blocking. Whenever he actually blocks something (A rare occasion), he gets all excited and forgets about blocking/dodging the second shot.
And, if we ARE allowed to pitch them stupid idea's, I'm gonna tell 'em about how great the Secret Shot Two was, and how they have to re-release it. Maybe just put some AT2K internals into a SS2 shell, paint it red or blue, and PRESTO! Instant Dart-Tag addition. And they could call it something un-original, like Big Bad Secret Fire Strike Tag Shot.
Really, the lack of an o-ring won't hurt. There are other ways of making a good air-tight seal there. I'd suggest hot-glue, and NOT epoxy, hot-glue can be taken off fairly easily, and it perfectly strong enough for this application.
It means resort to blackmail and/or kidnapping if neccessary to increase your attendence.
Oh yeah, we're coming too. All four of us. Bring your fuckin A-Game.
Oh boy! Evil, Talio, Famine, and Death are going! Wow!
I might be able to go... We've got plans for a Snakes On A Plane Party on the 18th, which is also a sleep-over. So, if I get up early enough, I may get my ass up there. Or not. Hasbro reps? Sounds cool... Quite an insentive. I just hope nobody starts pitching them stupid ideas and scares them off.
LMA the gun gets ten feet spot on,then it starts to drift a lot. But what do you expect with that kind of power? Think original gatling gun VS M60A1 minigun here. There's no comparison in the improvement but the gun itself is still not without it's flaws. As for video....Not happening. my lil brother dropped the video camera skateboarding and smashed it into about 40 diffrent pieces.
Wait... So, are you saying that it's accurate out to ten feet, or it only gets 10 feet of range? Because even for a Razorbeast, 10 feet is pittiful.
I'm surprised that you don't ahve trouble with the advancing mechanism. I'd think that with copper pipe, it'd be a lot worse. Also, I'd advise you to switch to micros. I really like megas, but for a gun with very limited power, and when you're trying to get every last inch of range to match your excellent ROF, micros are a better choice.
If this isn't meant to be particularly mobile, I'd suggest doing what Starbuck did (but didn't take a picture of in his thread). Make a sort of shield. Preferably netting of some kind, that would fit on the gun and give the gunner a fair amount of protection while he's gunning. I think that'd be an excellent addition to your Beast.
Replacment chains were made using Copper pipe and canvas bands,which are expandable with snaps.
I'd love to see that! Sounds like a solid alternative to posting flyers and newspaper adds for '!!!Nerf Chain Gun Ammo: Will Pay Big Bucks. SELL NOW, MAKE CASH!!!', which actually did work. It just took a couple months, and we only got three replys, but we scrambled together a respectable chain.
If I were you, I'd be worried about that ROF. 3 DPS? That sounds too high for a Razorbeast. Also, if this is going to be an 'Emplaced Machine Gun' as your title suggests, Do you really need a ROF that high? In my oppinion (Which admitedly counts for very little), 1 DPS is sufficient enough to keep people at bay. I'm assuming that since you're using home-made chains that you have rechambered them to fire micros. I am also assuming that since you are using micros, you are getting upwards of 60' in range. I'm also assuming that you're using this outside.
Based on my baseless assumptions, you would not need more than 1 DPS to effectivley halt any rushes, and keep people at bay. A lower rate of fire helps you control shot placement, and conserve ammunition. What actually would be best, is an on-the-fly variable ROF. THat'd be very, very helpful. So when they're rushing, you can blast away at 3 or 4 DPS, and when you've got one or two guys inching their way twoards you, you can put just one or two shots in their direction.
Very nice job though. I love the idea.
Almost forgot: With copper tubing, you must be having some feeding problems with the gun, unless you have an assistant gunner helping you. Take a cue from Starbuck and rig a coat hanger with a piece of copper or PVC as a roller, and atatch that to your gun to take some of the weight off of the advancing mechanism.
All in all, it's a great start. I hope you have fun with that beast (Tee hee... That's a funny pun.)
The way we do it, every fifteen seconds, you subtract a point. You start with 26 points. So, a 0 second mile will get you 26 points. A 6:30 mile will get you 0 points. You need at least one point in each event to pass.
So, yeah, 6:19. I suppose that's good considering I never run long distance. The only time I ever run is during Paintball, Airsoft, or Nerf, and that's just short sprints.
Laz, however, is on the school track team, and the cross-country team. This year, he got 4:58 on his mile. Next year he wants to break the school record (Which I don't know off the top of my head...). So, yeah. I'm not a very good runner by comparison.
My fastest mile on my bike was 2:17. That's just under the 28 MPH mark. And, no that wasn't downhill: it was on the Kissena Park Velodrome in New York. And, yes that wasset with a track bike. I couldn't have done it had the bike had brakes, a derailer, more than the two gears it had, a freewheel, etc. The bike weighs 8 pounds, and was made in 1960. All steel frame. A modern track bike weighs a lot less, but 8 pounds is still light enough to get going very, very fast.