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There have been 88 items by BloodMoon (Search limited from 16-July 93)
Congratulations on your mod...those are some pretty good ranges. Makes me think that I should try some 17/32" brass with some nitefinders.
Based on your experience with this gun, how workable do you think a spring replacement would be? I have no clue if it would actually work, but I now have 2 'new' nitefinder springs, which at first glance look to be stronger than the spring in your pictures. But I've never replaced a spring on a top-cocking gun, so someone will have to tell me if it's even possible.
I found that page a few times googling LARP crossbows (hoping to find homemade crossbow pics or a how-to)...while I've heard from a friend who's seen one that they're very good, I'm still not wanting to pay 130$ for one. For those out there who LARP, it looks like this:
I have personally seen these in action, and they are pretty good. He also makes a double crossbow of similar design.
Longsword+Wooden Shield+Leather Armor/Garb= no more than 25$ if you make the stuff yourself (I've made plenty)
LARPing is a 'cheaper' hobby, like nerfing, so paying for a crossbow is kind of a leap (though, if you're in a game that uses more authentic armor, you might be shelling out 250$ for chainmail and stuffs).
As for a homemade crossbow, I think that it would cost only ~10-20$ if you are willing to sacrifice the 'realistic' look for a surgical-tubing-and-PVC incarnation with some brown duct tape. So if you have something like that, or ideas, just PM me.
Again, Admins, I'm not sure about this tangent, especially on a nerfing board. So if you have any problems, speak up, I don't mean to cause trouble.
I know it's a little off-topic, but I've also been thinking about that. For my game, I'm just using padded homemade arrows on a 30-draw fiberglass bow. If you have a picture of your crossbow I'd love to see it.
I have made a crossbow for padded wepons combet before, it has a #25 draw and shoots real bolts that have been padded. Are you wanting to do something like that? If so I can help you out.
In mine, I'm boring out the two T-couplers to fit over one 27" segment of PVC, and then dremeling out the slots after I've slid the couplers over. I never thought to do it the other way, but sounds good.
This is the back section of the Upper reciever. There is a front section connected with the T-coupler also. Or I will plastic Epoxy another end to it, for easier cutting and dremeling.
As far as the realistic paint jobs, I still like the black color scheme used in all of boltsniper's weapons (that I know of). If you call that a color scheme. I use Krylon Fusion black on most of my weapons. Keep in mind that all of my wars are on private property away from the public, hundreds of feet from any roads even.
I look forward to future entries!
Also, I'm a little confused about this pic you posted:
I kind of see the part that holds back (like you said)...but isn't that just a 'hole' cut out of the Upper Reciever? And isn't the Upper Reciever 27 inches long? Looks a little short...could you explain?
Having a stock on a Nitefinder is a personal choice, so I'll respect yours on that. Putting a scope on a NF as the last poster suggested would be kind of a waste, IMHO. You don't need a scope to shoot 50 feet.
Just another comment, I actually like the rail on top of the new NF's. I'm mildly pissed off that the spring is less strong, but other than that, I like the look of the gun better.
Maybe I'm just better at searching (don't know how that's possible, you just type in what you're looking for), but I did find this: Flamebo's Mod
I'm thinking that it would be actually cheaper to buy a springer than to try and get all the parts for building a homemade one.
Also, I'm not sure the FAR is the best place to look for ideas on this. The FAR was designed with bulky foam ammunition in mind, so I don't know how much of Bolt's design is going to be relevant to what you're trying to do. The FAR is a good primer for a project like this, but I think that you're going to have to redesign the magazine system to work with the BB's, which will be no small feat.
Just one question that I've never really asked. What do you do to get the darts into the back of the barrels? Do you ramrod, or is the fit loose enough that you can just blow them down?
As far as brass goes, I'd say that if you're new and you have an Ace nearby, that should be the first place you check. Of three Ace stores, I've found brass at all three. That doesn't mean that all Ace's carry it, but it does mean that it's worth checking. Be aware that brass is a relatively uncommon item, so you may have to search the store yourself.
I have never seen brass at Lowes. I haven't been to more than one Lowe's though.
It's a solid mod. It's a lot like what I wound up doing for my very first mod. What I can tell you about ranges on the NF CPVC mod is that you'll get very different results depending on your stefans.
Thanks, Uncle Hammer. I guess I'll also be buying a whole bunch of 'old' NF's if there are still any lying around on shelves somewheres.
As for the places that DO carry the pipe, Lowes is a haul for me, but they carry more types of PVC than anywhere else I've been to, thin-wall included. I get most of my thin-wall from a locally-owned store called Wentworth Lumber Yard. Just see what kind of places in your area.
I measured some 1", and that chart seems about right, so I'd say it's pretty safe to assume that the chart is correct for the rest of the pipe sizes.
Unfortunately, it doesn't list ID's and OD's for thin wall PVC (for example, 230 PSI 3/4" PVC or 200 PSI 1" PVC), which you may want in your design.
Darn...my GNS will be obsolete before I even get the rest of the parts to build it.
I took a break from it and brainstormed a new homemade that's gonna kick ass.
Not only does the GNS look awesome, the ranges are great, with an edge over Nerf's current-generation pistols.
Can't wait to see schmatics for the GNS parts as well as pics of the new gun. I can tell you that in my community alone, there are plenty of people hanging on every word you post, Boltsniper.
If you can't get brass, that I can assume that you also can't get PETG. The other barrel materials to consider are Sch. 80 PVC (haven't used this, but some people claim it works) and Crayolas. Crayolas might be a good, slightly less constricted alternative to CVPC for your guns.
In general, if you have a spring gun (or any gun with a high air volume / slow air delivery), you will benefit from a constriction.
Just to sum it up though, make sure you have a Brass, PETG, Crayola, or CPVC barrel for the 1/2" FBR that you are going to buy.
Uhh, then where would the crossbow's barrel be??
Nice integretion but the pump should be where the barrelis of the sm1500, and the barrel should come out the top hole where the original Xbow's barrel was.
Here's a pic of my LBB, though I already posted the pic in some other thread:
For all of the hardware stores I've been in, there's been a wall of springs somewhere. Just ask someone who works there...unlike some items (like brass), springs are really common, and the people working at your hardware store should know where they are. As far as the three stores nearest to me, however, I've been unable to find any good springs for use in cocking guns, so I'm going to try to get ahold of some AR15 springs, as per Boltsniper's Homemades.
In what section of your hardware stores do you find the springs?
Just a question on the function of your silencer...I'm assuming that the noise reduction is really only an issue for pump guns, seeing as in a spring gun the sound of the spring colliding with the end of the plunger tube is louder than the dart firing (though I may be wrong)?
Also, as a new person to Homemades (who is trying to get all the information he can), I'd like to see a list of the other materials you'll be using to make your bolt-action rifle.