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There have been 718 items by taerKitty (Search limited from 29-November 93)
I picked up some of that Mortite weatherstripping putty and will try to make some metal-free darts. I have an idea for another blaster and may have it ready in time. If so, I may ask someone to test it out. We'll see.
See you at Woodland Park at the end of the month, family scheduling willing.
The park is large, so aim for the lot next to the Lawn Bowling area in the NW corner of the park (it's right off of highway 99). This is generally the least used area. If anyone is unsure I can provide my cell number to help you find our staging area. Google maps is your friend.
I see the Bowling Area. Can you give some guidance on where best to look for parking?
I haz Hello Kitty duct tape!
Seeing as I'm posting anyhow, here's the completed beast:
One of the barrels is torqued because it's resting against it. Normally it shoots straight.
Gets ~50' with 1' spread when I pump it to 20 psi, but my arms are weak. If you can man-handle a 2-11, you can probably get it higher.
I can max it out putting it on the ground and pumping with both hands to 60 psi. Then it gets ~100' with a 2' spread.
iModify, DarthFreyr and I were on #nerfChat earlier talking about loaners. Darth has some, and I'll be bringing a few 4Bullpups. As for darts, Dayko brought a community bin to his wars last year, so we're probably going to be set. He'll also be bringing some tetrahedral mobstacles.
@Chopin - I can pick up either "Hello Kitty" or "Skulls with Pink Bows" duct tape to slap on your blasters if you want.
Sadly, I'm out of modding (but not Nerfing, just modding) so I don't have anything new to show.
I'll be travelling with a bunch of 4BullPups.
Hope you had a kick-ass war. Dayko, where's the pics, dude? (Yeah, it's not been 24 hours yet, but I know you and how long it takes you to get pics posted!)
The admins do - they close / clean up threads talking about unreleased blasters, and for good reason.
Yeah, this question is pointless. The release date is the first of August, so until then it isn't considered released. Also, who the fuck really cares if it is considered released?
For example, Zorn just cleaned up Greydon's Retaliator AR removal thread
From this, I'm reading the tea leaves to say that if you can find them on your shelf, then they're considered 'released' in a way; you're okay posting mods, internals, PJs, etc. However, if you don't have them in your grubbies, I don't know what the M/A team will do, but I'm guessing it won't be pretty.
Keep discussion to the modification and not speculation about where or when you can obtain the blaster. I've purged all the irrelevant comments.
So says the guy who probably got the most kills this time around! Great aim!!!
Awesome war guys. See you at the next one!
Edit: Got some pictures up. These were all taken during one round, hence not a lot of variety of blasters. Also, this was the 'stock' round, so the blasters pictured weren't the best on the field that day.
Out of thirty-four shots, this was the only one that showed darts in the air.
Maybe this one as well.
One thing about using stock ammo ... it's up close and personal.
There's quite a few more shots, but these look to be the best. If anyone is interested, the rest are in this Facebook album
Super Soaker Max-D 2000 (I don't know if others in the same line have it)
It's hard to see, but there's a cam-like action going. Once the trigger rotates the triangular piece to a certain point, a spring will snap from one position to the other (like an toggle- style 'clicky' wall-mouned light switch.) This opens the ball valve very quickly.
Images thanks to sscentral.org. In fact, they have a good explanation on how these work, as well.
SuperMaxx 1000 (photo courtesy of CheezyPizza)
The < shaped piece holds the pin valve shut while the trigger compresses the spring around the pin. When the trigger moves to the 'break' point, it rotates the < piece down, and the pin valve pin is free to move.
Plunger Rod Valve
The NF plunger bar primed allows the pin valve to close. When it is fired (fully forward) it pulls the pin valve open. However, the reservoir is pointed backwards relative to the NF.
At 33" long, I'm not sure it qualifies as a 'bullpup' anymore. 10 strokes from the bike pump sends a slug 100'. No OPRV, so no war-usage, though the whole "pump ten times, then fire" makes it less-than war-worthy.
It was the Spy Gear Rocket Launcher a few posts above, but the stock OPRV was very low (two pumps.) Maybe it was a bum one. Maybe that's just how it's set.
Unlike SVT4B's, these don't have a screw on the back side to adjust the cracking pressure. From experimenting, driving a screw into the opening in the pump face seems to work, but too late now.
I found that the ghetto-trigger from my first 4BullPup tended to bleed the valve badly. To address this, I present the 4BullPup-1A. Valve releases so quickly, it sounds like a gunshot. NF is completely non-functional. I'm just using it for the PR, PH, spring, and catch. This is it ready-to-fire.
Using the ghetto-lever trigger's zip-tie, and a cross of zip-ties so it slides when primed. Lever trigger has an extension spring to keep it closed when primed. 3/4" PVC screwed and epoxied to the front handle (and then zip-tied for added aesthetic insult). It pushes against the grey 1/2" PVC ring on first pump stroke, which is wasted. Subsequent pump strokes, it slides freely along the 1/2" CPVC guide rod.
On a fugly note, I love how everything is not parallel.
To make up for double-post below, here's a shot of the balancing point for the 4BullPup-1A:
The previous one had the handle at the end of the PT and was very back-heavy. This one is perfectly balanced, but the stock throw from back to the trigger is only 10.5".
I tried a PETG-only barrel in a 4B, and was sorely disappointed. I've since moved to an inch or two of CPVC nested in PVC, into which I then crap the PETG. Works much better.
So spill, why is it that "I've not done an official range test. I'll probably never get down to doing it. Sorry." Hope all is well, friend!
Thanks to all for the words of encouragement!
Seems like an easy way to make a stefan drum, minus the reactor spring. Good Job on this! I'd probably replace the hot glue with dowel rods or some such thing, just cause I'm afraid of hot glue melting in NJ's weather.
Most definitely! Our biggest Nerfing problem here is rain, not heat. You might be able to get by with foam as well.
As for Reactor springs, if you don't have one, it's time to make an Atomic Splat!
It's a 29-round stefanized drum.
This is what two of them are capable of doing:
On a 1-10 scale of difficulty, where 10 is a RevShot (yes, it goes higher, but I don't have any more complicated blasters to compare it to), I'd rate this as a 3. Yes, I think it's that simple.
- Needlenose pliers
- (Optional) 'normal' pliers: linesman, channel-lock, or slip-joint
- Hot glue gun
- Drill with fine ( ~1/16") and wide (~3/16") bits
- Long (8+" shaft) Philips-head screwdriver
- Knife, preferably a razor or box-cutter
- Sewing needle
- CS-35 drum
- Reactor spring
- (5) 4" long x 1/2" dia hot glue sticks
- Wood screw 1/2" long by 1/8" diameter
- Washer with ID hole big enough to accept the above
- Paper towel
- Duct tape
- (8) foam blanks, appx 1.25" long
- Small screw eye, with shaft diameter approximately that of the drum's screws
- Zip-ties small enough to pass through the screw eye, above
To start with, take apart the drum.
Take a hacksaw to the clear piece as follows:
- There are three flanges protruding out the back. Hack them off, then file them flat.
- The part mating the straight portion of the magazine needs to go. Look closely at the picture to see how to hacksaw it off.
Drill out the three pegs. They're glued, so they are the enemy. We won't be needing either end, so use as large a drill bit as possible to ensure the upper portion is not touching the lower portion.
Break the tabs and notches. We won't be using them, so bust 'em if you have to.
Saw the sprocketed wheel off the half of the drum guts WITH THE NOTCHES, NOT THE TABS.
Using the pliers (any variety, though I used channel-locks for additional leverage and gripping strength), break off the six tabs.
Drill a hole across the spindle using the 1/16" bit.
Let's talk springs. We need springs with a COUNTER-CLOCKWISE twist if you look at the spring on end and follow the wire away from you. Or, looking at it front he side, the wire closest to you should be angled like this: /. The top and bottom springs are correct, the middle one is wrong.
All modern-generation Nerf Reactors I've opened have the correct spring. I'm calling this out because I do have that smaller Reactor-sized spring. It could have come from a BuzzBee knock-off, or an older-generation Reactor. Whatever the case, make sure you have the right spring. This is not optional, and using the wrong spring WILL NOT WORK.
Using the boltcutters, cut the spring ends off.
Thread it through the hole you just drilled in the spindle and, using the needlenose pliers, bend it back on itself.
Using the needlenose pliers, take the other end and bend the end first inward toward the diameter of the spring, then back out so you have an "N"-ish shape.
The truncated drum guts in the picture is already hot-glued together. DON'T DO THAT. These are the images I have, but in retrospect, you'll save yourself some headache if you glue the top part on later.
Drill a hole into the tabbed (and currently only intact) half of the drum guts.
FIRST run the wire into the intact drum guts, THEN hot glue it on.
This picture has an error in it. The reason for working the 'N' shape is to lock the wire to the spool. It should not have the crook visible.
One word about gluing the drum halves together: The notches do not have straight sides. Each is flared slightly inward. This means, if you align it so a wall is straight, the two wheels will be mis-aligned. Align it by the apexes of the notches not the walls.
Back to this picture. Use the long Philips screwdriver to collapse the spring in place. It has to be long to thread the spring, and it has to be Philips so it sits the spindle's hole.
Duct tape the INVERTED clear back over the whole assembly. Pay no attention to the chuck of hot glue. This picture is actually from a breakfix later on, but it works better in this part in the flow.
Add a drop (and just a drop!) of hot glue on the top of the spindle. While it is cooling, add some lube to the center top of the washer. It's okay if some lube gets on the bottom, but use the paper towel to ensure none is in the hole.
Not shown - use the Sharpie to mark which end is 'up' on the screw head. The center screw MUST NOT come undone. If it does, that coiled spring will become a Gordanian knot.
Thread the wood screw through the washer, ensuring no lube is on the screw, then drive it into the spindle throught the hot glue.
Rock the drum guts back and forth while the glue is drying to ensure it isn't glued down.
Again, pay no attention to the chunk of glue stick, out-of-sequence-picture, yadda, yadda.
Now for the straight portion of the magazine. We're going to do a lot of damage here. Remove the constant-force spring housing, breaking off the two guiding bars that go with it. Cut back the plastic until it's in line with the flanges that hold the straight part in the drum.
Next, take a file and file away half the width of the FORWARD guiding bar.
Hot glue three 4" long hot glue sticks together.
Apply hot glue to the top and bottom 1" of one 'end' of the three glue sticks and insert it into the straight part of the magazine so it is flush with the upper notch where the bolt travels. It will protrude slightly from the bottom. This is fine.
I don't have a good photo of it, so here's a shot from the prototype showing what I mean. Note that this one was glued from top to bottom of that block of hot glue sticks, which interfered with the magazine catch, so I had to take a file to it.
NOW we talk about that pesky rod of hot glue. Cut off a length of hot glue about 1.25" long. Wind the drum in a clockwise direction until spring is taut. Unfortunately, the amount of turns will vary with how much drag you have, which in turn is dependent on the thickness of your foam to the 1/100" of an inch.
Holding the drum wound tight, glue it so it is flush with the BACK part of the drum. DON'T glue it flush with the front part, because there are inner flanges in the front, so it will catch/drag.
Hold it until the glue is hard, then gently allow the drum to rotate until it gently comes to rest against the notch that holds the straight part of the magazine.
If you find that the tension is incorrect, you can adjust it by removing the straight part from the drum, then gently winding or unwinding the drum by working the glue stick past the protruding part.
Using the needle and thread, make a 'belt' out of the eight foam blanks.
It's a good idea to differentiate the blanks used as the follower from ordinary darts.
Replace one of the two screws holding the straight part of the magazine with the small screw eye.
Assemble it. You'll need to gently wiggle the guiding bar over the outer wheel. Zip-tie the straight part of the magazine in place.
Wind the drum so the glue stick is to the left of the inner protrusion of plastic that holds the straight part of the magazine. Insert the 'belt' of foam blanks in front of it, then load the drum. You should be able to get ~20 darts in there.
Hold the drum upright (so the darts don't flip) and gently allow it to advance until a dart is in firing position. Next, wind the drum slightly and insert a dart. Repeat 9 times.
Lastly, insert the clear part, inverted. You'll note that it will catch under the glue sticks. Use a piece of duct tape to keep it from flapping open. Double back the last 1/2" of the duct tape so it's easy to remove for loading.
To store it, wind it slightly and insert a piece of CPVC in firing position.
Thoughts / comments / questions / flames?
Here are some of mine:
- I'd gladly sacrifice the 6 shots for the ease of not mucking with the follower, taking the straight part apart to add rails, etc.
- This allows you to see how many shots you have.
- Loading is much easier than a stock CS-35. You can load 20 darts w/o having to feed them through the straight part of the magazine.
- No SPACERS!
- Downside - your dart length has to be 1.5" or less. My Tuff-Cap V2s are 1.75" and won't work.
- If you have hotter climes, use high-temp hot glue.
- How close the hot glue rod is to the guiding bar is how many shots you have left.
- I've found that, once I've gotten the tension dialed in, it's 'pretty' reliable. Firing two drums fully, I got about two fail-to-advance failures (resulting in dry-firing) and one feed failure, which could have been due to a 'dirty' dart.
- Because my foam is a bit thicker than stock (mine measures 0.50", while a stock Streamline measures 0.49") I get a bit of drag. I've had to fire more slowly as a result.
BTW, huge THANK YOU to the admins for upping the picture limit!
Small ring of 1" PVC has a Nerf shell screw driven into it. the top of the 4B pump handle has a small hole formed in it, and the handle shell pried apart so it grips the screw. Who cares if it's loose? The whole point is the ring stays on the handle.
Why the ring? The piece of 3/4" PVC clamped to the barrel is the max extension for the pump handle.
Trigger detail. The trigger is a zip-tie. The stand-off is a wood screw driven into the PVC, then the head bolt-cut off. A piece of brass is screwed over it, and a screw eye is dropped into the end to keep the zip-tie in place. Lastly, the whole mess is mummified in duct tape.
Oh, and that zip-tie flapping in the wind? It's my 'sight'.
Airflow detail. The 4B already came with a PVC coupler attached, so there's a 90-degree CPVC elbow malletted into the coupler, and then a small (Nerf shell) screw driven into it to secure it. The rest of it is pressure-fit. I never know how long I'll want to keep my blasters in one configuration.
Then you have this site mistaken for some other kinder, gentler, warm-n-fuzzy site. This site is where you post to dickwave, to troll, and to show off your best-of-breed. And, if your best-of-breed isn't enough to sell the skeptics on sight alone, they'll never bother to give it a try and stick with their preconceived notions.
I don't think people should poop on the idea if they haven't made themselves a few to use at a war.
I *am* sold on this idea, because I spray-n-pray. (Or, as one admin said, "You don't Nerf well, you paintball poorly" in regards to HAMP users' tendency for saturation-fire.) Some Nerfers can run (and possibly rule) a whole round with just a pocketful of ammo. These ain't for them.
One thing I like about having lots of ready-to-use ammo is that I don't have to forage for darts. Foraging is fun in a MacGyver mindset, to pull your ass out of a bad situation based on luck, guts, and skill. However, it can lead to sub-optimal performance, such as when you find that some other Nerfer's dart corkscrews like mad out of your blaster. This way, I can be sure I'm firing darts that are tuned to my barrel/blaster recipe.
Lastly, while this isn't a 'theory' thread because we've built the kit, it's still an 'in theory, these will help' until they're tested as-is. Yes, Zorn used pre-filled mini-mags, but I'm not aware shingles for full-sized hopper magaiznes of any being war-tested. NIC-cred, if deserved, will come in two forms:
- "Yes, I used it at BAWLS (Big-Assed War @ Lake Stevens) 2.1 and it rocked!"
- "Day-um, I faced JoeNerfer with these, and he was eviscerating us!"
The latter will confer more +rep. Every creator thinks their baby is the prettiest.
Back on-topic. Our next war here in the Seattle area is 2012-06-30. I'll definitely be making a bunch of my CAS (Cheap-Assed Shingles) and fielding them there, and I'll post (prolly a new thread, so as not to trigger a NecroBan) my findings.
If anything the BumpFire DTB is similar to my suggestion to HamHam for his "I want it to SlamFire and trigger-fire."
As an aside, I call the triggering method 'BumpFire' because someone pointed out that SlamFire requires the trigger be depressed in order to fire. If this were my mod, I'd name it something 'BumpFire' as well, but it's not, so the person who pointed it out to me will have to live with that.
Have the slide have some forward travel beyond the pump stroke (in other words, have the connection to the priming rod be a slot, not a hole). Tie a string to the slide that pulls the trigger when it travels into that 'extra'. Done.
Very nice! Now I want to see a gun that can slam-fire and single fire.
Back to the OP's mod, I like it very much. It definitely got hit with an ugly stick, and I love it all the more for that reason. I appreciate how it up-ends many of our standard design preconceptions with the sliding catch tube, and the elegance (and fugliness) of the triggering system.